First, thank you very much for this video; neither the Haynes manual nor the official Kia shop manual were very helpful. Second, my 08 Kia Optima required some subtle differences in the procedure. I had to remove the engine cover and the fan shroud in order to remove the alternator once it was loose. I also could not remove the upper bolt without moving (but not disconnecting) the power steering filler. I had no trouble removing the alternator from its mountings but the new one required a little grinding on the inside of the tabs to fit onto the mount. I also found out that if you access the belt tensioner from inside the wheel well, you can use a zip tie to hold the wrench in place and keep the tensioner under tension while you route the belt. That belt diagram was also a godsend. Thank you.
Nice video, shows the difficult parts of actually taking it off and some solutions that worked for you. I'll be using this as a reference for an 09 kia rondo
Excellent video! thank you for these clear instructions. Replaced my fried alternator in an afternoon - wasn't easy, but your video gave me the confidence to go for it! Thanks
I’m trying to work on a 2011 Kia Forte lx and behind the fender liner there’s a whole metal frame that has the brake line going up but not sure how to get to the alternator with that in the way with no way to take it off it looks like?
I have an 08 Rondo. Which I think is going to be very similar installing/removal to these other model Hyundai's and Kia's. On my car, I've found that you only have to remove the top bolt and just loosen the bottom bolt and then pivot the alternator out and and wiggle it out from there. Also, before installing the new one, there is a metal bushing on the bracket (or on the alternator) I forget. But if you push that bushing back in a bit it helps to get the alternator installed back in the bracket. I've done probably 4 alternators in my Rondo (way over 300K miles on it) and I've got to pull the alternator again soon. (different issue) and I will update whether the bushing is in the alternator or if it's in the bracket itself.
But..there is one thing to remember as I did make the same Mistake (Twice..) If, you forget to tighten the Lower bolt when you reinstall the Alternator, it can (and probably will) migrate out and vibrate against the inside of the Frame rail and make a noise that sounds a lot like "loose sheet metal on the exhaust manifold" And really, the only way to get the bolt to thread up and go back in to the proper location is that you have to remove the serpentine belt and take the tension off the alternator. Otherwise, it's nearly impossible to get the bolt to thread back into the lower mount. Trust me, I've tried.
And, that "Bushing" is on the Alternator. It you can tap (or squeeze) it in a bit, it will allow the alternator to fit over the lower part of the bracket easier. (But, please Don't beat on the alternator as it's a sensitive electronic device). But maybe a C clamp instead might help to push that bushing back (just a bit!) I might have even used vice grips.
Your video is awesome step by step, I started to watch your video right before you take the alternator out, how did you get that bracket out? That's the only thing I stopping me from getting it out
QUESTION: FROM your video, at 2 Minutes, 47, 48, 49 seconds, there's a BLACK metal sitting on top of the Alternator. This is just under the Power Steering fluid hose. Not sure how you got it out (it vanished before you took out the Alternator, finally). I'd need some help to deal with that. Fact is, while i didn't go under the car, i've removed both bolts (top completely pulled out; lower one is loosened all the way out, but blocked by the tensioner pulley. More guidance would be appreciated.
can this video be used to replace an alternator on a 2012 Kia Rondo - and can it be done from the hood, or does it need to be done under the car? Thank you!
Sorry for the slow reply. I believe it is a different part and location. There may be some things you can learn from this video, but it's not a step by step, like for like.
Sorry for that late response. I should have filmed that. It’s easiest as a two person job. One person up top with a wrench applying full torque on the pulley. One person down below to slip the belt on.
i have a 2010 kia forte exact set up were you able to get the bottom bolt off the alternator mine is fully loose but cant pull it all the way out because it hits the frame
That’s odd. Not sure about that one. I believe mine was close, but still had clearance. If it’s really close and just sitting in the alternator bolt hole, then you may still be able to wiggle it out some with the bolt still sitting there until you have enough clearance. That’s the only thing I can think of. Just remember that however you get it out, you’re likely going to need to put it back in the same way.
@@homemechanics3349 got it out dumbest set up for a regularly replaced part ended up having to lower the motor but that bottom bolt doesn't even thread into anything just sits in a open slot super weird set up
Got it out, but hard to get bottom alternator bite to slide over mount, was a real bitch to get alternator out with both bolts removed. Why such a tight fit to the mount. Do I have to bang it back in?
Nice work! That part is the worst of all of it. Should be easier to get back in. The harder part of getting it back in is lining the bottom bolt up. But it slides back in a bit easier.
If the alternator has a rear bushing, (I believe many of them do) try pushing the bushing in a bit with a C clamp. Not to hard as to crack the case, but if you can push it in a bit, then it will move back into place when you tighten up the bolt.
I have to say this is one of the best car repair videos I've ever seen. The camera work and lighting was great. Nice job!
First, thank you very much for this video; neither the Haynes manual nor the official Kia shop manual were very helpful. Second, my 08 Kia Optima required some subtle differences in the procedure. I had to remove the engine cover and the fan shroud in order to remove the alternator once it was loose. I also could not remove the upper bolt without moving (but not disconnecting) the power steering filler. I had no trouble removing the alternator from its mountings but the new one required a little grinding on the inside of the tabs to fit onto the mount.
I also found out that if you access the belt tensioner from inside the wheel well, you can use a zip tie to hold the wrench in place and keep the tensioner under tension while you route the belt. That belt diagram was also a godsend. Thank you.
Nice video, shows the difficult parts of actually taking it off and some solutions that worked for you. I'll be using this as a reference for an 09 kia rondo
Excellent video! thank you for these clear instructions. Replaced my fried alternator in an afternoon - wasn't easy, but your video gave me the confidence to go for it! Thanks
Thanks for the video! About to tackle mine on my 2008 Optima!
I’m trying to work on a 2011 Kia Forte lx and behind the fender liner there’s a whole metal frame that has the brake line going up but not sure how to get to the alternator with that in the way with no way to take it off it looks like?
I’m working on a 2009 Kia rondo and the bottom bolt is blocked from coming out by the frame how do I get it out?
Thank you for verran clear video !
I have an 08 Rondo. Which I think is going to be very similar installing/removal to these other model Hyundai's and Kia's. On my car, I've found that you only have to remove the top bolt and just loosen the bottom bolt and then pivot the alternator out and and wiggle it out from there. Also, before installing the new one, there is a metal bushing on the bracket (or on the alternator) I forget. But if you push that bushing back in a bit it helps to get the alternator installed back in the bracket. I've done probably 4 alternators in my Rondo (way over 300K miles on it) and I've got to pull the alternator again soon. (different issue) and I will update whether the bushing is in the alternator or if it's in the bracket itself.
But..there is one thing to remember as I did make the same Mistake (Twice..)
If, you forget to tighten the Lower bolt when you reinstall the Alternator, it can (and probably will) migrate out and vibrate against the inside of the Frame rail and make a noise that sounds a lot like "loose sheet metal on the exhaust manifold"
And really, the only way to get the bolt to thread up and go back in to the proper location is that you have to remove the serpentine belt and take the tension off the alternator. Otherwise, it's nearly impossible to get the bolt to thread back into the lower mount. Trust me, I've tried.
And, that "Bushing" is on the Alternator. It you can tap (or squeeze) it in a bit, it will allow the alternator to fit over the lower part of the bracket easier. (But, please Don't beat on the alternator as it's a sensitive electronic device). But maybe a C clamp instead might help to push that bushing back (just a bit!) I might have even used vice grips.
Your video is awesome step by step, I started to watch your video right before you take the alternator out, how did you get that bracket out? That's the only thing I stopping me from getting it out
QUESTION: FROM your video, at 2 Minutes, 47, 48, 49 seconds, there's a BLACK metal sitting on top of the Alternator. This is just under the Power Steering fluid hose.
Not sure how you got it out (it vanished before you took out the Alternator, finally). I'd need some help to deal with that.
Fact is, while i didn't go under the car, i've removed both bolts (top completely pulled out; lower one is loosened all the way out, but blocked by the tensioner pulley. More guidance would be appreciated.
Very good video.
can this video be used to replace an alternator on a 2012 Kia Rondo - and can it be done from the hood, or does it need to be done under the car? Thank you!
Sorry for the slow reply. I believe it is a different part and location. There may be some things you can learn from this video, but it's not a step by step, like for like.
COOL video. thank you, Boss
what tool did you put the belt back on with. on my 08 sonata i can’t seem to get enough tension off the pulley to slip it back on
Sorry for that late response. I should have filmed that. It’s easiest as a two person job. One person up top with a wrench applying full torque on the pulley. One person down below to slip the belt on.
Did you remove power steering pump
Nope. I did not.
Very good video. Thank you
How did you get the belt off/on?
Great question. I answered in another comment below. Sorry should have filmed that.
Use a socket wrench. Gives you little more flexibility.
@@tonyp8808 whats a socket wrench ?
i have a 2010 kia forte exact set up were you able to get the bottom bolt off the alternator mine is fully loose but cant pull it all the way out because it hits the frame
That’s odd. Not sure about that one. I believe mine was close, but still had clearance. If it’s really close and just sitting in the alternator bolt hole, then you may still be able to wiggle it out some with the bolt still sitting there until you have enough clearance. That’s the only thing I can think of. Just remember that however you get it out, you’re likely going to need to put it back in the same way.
@@homemechanics3349 got it out dumbest set up for a regularly replaced part ended up having to lower the motor but that bottom bolt doesn't even thread into anything just sits in a open slot super weird set up
Ronnie did you lower the engine by just loosening the top motor mount?
@@ronniestephen4889 how did you lower the engine? I'm doing it on a Forte Koup right now.
Got it out, but hard to get bottom alternator bite to slide over mount, was a real bitch to get alternator out with both bolts removed. Why such a tight fit to the mount. Do I have to bang it back in?
Nice work! That part is the worst of all of it. Should be easier to get back in. The harder part of getting it back in is lining the bottom bolt up. But it slides back in a bit easier.
If the alternator has a rear bushing, (I believe many of them do) try pushing the bushing in a bit with a C clamp. Not to hard as to crack the case, but if you can push it in a bit, then it will move back into place when you tighten up the bolt.
This is way more of a bitch than you make it look. Very good job!
Getting that piece of crap back in there is the nightmare
The worst.