Very well explained. The blue chain was very helpful, often black components are displayed on black backround and the presenter from other canals wear black hand gloves.
This is a superb video. informative, succinct and to the point. No wasted time, well written, edited and filmed. Simple excellent work. Thanks for your efforts.
Got my answer, loose and tight spots in chain while turning cranks is common due to imperfect chainrings. Adjust so tight spots have 1/4" slack and your good to go. Thank you Park Tools
A lot of thought and preparation must have gone into the making of this video. It contains a lot of very helpful clear guidance. I had to size a new chain from scratch and preferred to join the two ends at the bottom of where the chain goes rather than on the chain wheel.
Got damn man thank you so much. I been perplexed with this back tire for 4 days now and soon as I watched your video taking the chain off, BAM I got it.
Chain tension- spin the cranks and hold bike so the outside face of the chainring is parallel to the ground, give the bike a good shake. If the chain is too loose it will fall off.
Trying to figure this out on a three wheel trike, no axle adjustment room, but I think I got it! Thanks! Had to do it twice, too long first time Thank You for your help
Thanks for the amazing work. I put a brand new chain on the single-speed bike but yet has lots of noise which It didn't have with the old chain. I changed the front chainring but it makes that noise. Is it possible brand new chain has a factory defect?
This guide was good. But some points from my experience recently doing this: 1. I couldn't add two additional links to the chain length when sizing, as it took away all adjustment to get the chain tensioned properly, and as the chain will slacken over time it would be too long for the frame adjusters. 2. You should fully grease the connecting link before installing. 3. The retaining clip should have the closed section facing forward in the direction of chain travel. Otherwise very useful guide... 👍
You mention that after finding the reference rivet to then add two more links (to make later rear wheel removal easier). Is this necessary for use on forward facing dropouts?
I got my pinkie stuck between the front chainring and the chain when I was 7. I’m now 13 and still got the scar. Learnt from that mistake pretty quickly.
Hello, thank you for these series of videos, is there any intention to make a video about the suspension, in the mountain bike which is mostly fully suspension bike.
I wonder how many cyclists, who do their own servicing, use a torque wrench for the various nuts and bolts. I have one but don't use it, and I've never stripped a thread or had bolts come loose.
One thing I am not sure about that is not entirely clear in this video , this ideal 12 mm amount of movement in the chain , is it 6mm up from where the chain sits and 6mm down to make 12mm alltogether ?, or 12mm up and 12 mm down , or just 12mm up from where the chain is sitting ?
Hey Ben! Is this tipe of masterlink at 1:00 directional? I have been using for years at the opossite side, luckily I never had any problems, but it does not mean that I did it correctly. Congratulations for all the videos about chains!! Love your channel an the brand!!
Flor.e.Cultura yes, the close side of the master link should face the direction in which the chain is moving. If the open side is facing the direction of chain movement there is a very little chance that it could catch on something and pop off. I've never heard of this happening to anyone, so there is no problem if you put it backwards.
Always tighten the Left axle nut first and a torque wrench is unnecessary but I'm sure some people believe every sales pitch they here so....... But the rest of the video is good
When my pedals are turning while pushing the bike, does this neccessarily mean that my chain tension is too tight? Greetings from Germany, great Video!
I work for the CAT dealer Zeppelin in Germany, in order to get stuck screwed connections the right torque is crucial. That's why all the screws have a control line. The installer confirms that the screw has been tightened with the correct torque.
you won't normally as steel, aluminium a few others are hard to damage but if you have carbon bike and no metal there then make sense but most times always be metal to clamp on no matter what, I use a torque wrench on my cassette, pedals, crank bolts, disc brake bolts, unless it carbon I do all rest with feel but at bike projects I often do all by feel as they not worry so much and just want it road worth that can be done without it
Great video! Where can I purchase that chain tensioner? I am looking everywhere for the one you use but can't seem to find it. I couldn't find it on parktool.com. Any suggestions?
Depends if you have a master link or not. If you do just un do the link and remove the chain. If you do not you can push the pin 75% of the way out then pull the two sides of chain apart. To re install, the content from the video should have you covered.
Get the bike up in the air to pedal and test it. Pedal and push on the chain at the point between front are rear sprockets. Purposefully try to disengage the chain, and shove it off the sprocket. If it stays on, you are good.
Question: If I made a mistake in sizing a chain (cutting it too short), is it possible to add links with another quick link, or must I get a new chain instead?
I noticed that bike has a Surly Tuggnut. Never used them before, thinking about getting one ... Serious question: Do you use one on each side or only on the drive side?
I prefer a chain tensioner on one side. The majority of force that is applied is being applied to the driveside. So this is where you will benefit the most from the chain tensioner. The Tuggnut is fantastic BTW.
Parktool? is there something wrong with this video, it looks like it is horizontal mirror image. The whole image shows drive train on the left side of the bike. at 7 minutes 55 seconds for few seconds, the drive train appears to right of the bike, then it changes to the left of the bike until the end of the video.
7 55 is on the left side because its a bmx and usually bmx bikes has their cranks onto the left. the rest are normal which are on the right side so the video is fine :)
Centering the wheel between the chainstays is done by looking at it from behind, and if it looks OK, that's good...? Just roughly eyeballing it is OK, a more accurate method isnt needed...? On many frames, the chainstays aren't identical... how to handle that...?
Hi, so I picked up a Schwinn two sprocket off the road recently. All it needed was some inner tubes and a little maintenance. But when I ride it hard and/or break hard, the chain slips off the rear sprocket, even though it’s plenty tight. Any suggestions? I’m guessing maybe the rear sprocket is just old and worn down a bit and needs to be replaced
It could. A stiff link may not be a lubrication issue but sometimes a link of the chain has been bent. But this is more common on bikes with more than one gear. I guess i'm not super familiar with what you refer to as a two sprocket.
Also make sure to use another lubricant over the WD-40 (unless a chain oil product from WD-40) WD-40 proper is not a lubricant and acts as more of a solvent to break things up and leave a very thin residue to keep things from rusting.
04:20 , i'm that guy... And yes, it is extremely painful, taking into account the tight chain... And another time I almost lost a finger because it was in one of the holes of the brake disc when I accidentally twisted the wheel a little...
PLEASE HELP ME I JUST NEED TO REMOVE HALF OF THE CHAIN LINK BUT THEN I CANNOT FIT THE LINK TO CONNECT IT!!! If i do not remove it the chain is to lose.... and if i remove the whole link the chain is to short and the wheel will be tightent at the verry beginning of the forward drop outs.... what can i do !!!???
If you have a single speed there are often "half link connecting links that can resolve your issue. They come in eithere 3/32 or 1/8 depending on the chain that you have. Instead of 1" to remove or keep installed it is 1/2 inch. kmcchain.us/connector/415-ol/ Something like that but make sure the width is correct for your chain.
Very well explained. The blue chain was very helpful, often black components are displayed on black backround and the presenter from other canals wear black hand gloves.
This is a superb video. informative, succinct and to the point. No wasted time, well written, edited and filmed. Simple excellent work.
Thanks for your efforts.
Got my answer, loose and tight spots in chain while turning cranks is common due to imperfect chainrings.
Adjust so tight spots have 1/4" slack and your good to go.
Thank you Park Tools
really the best video for Dirt bikes, Single speed and fixed gears.
A lot of thought and preparation must have gone into the making of this video. It contains a lot of very helpful clear guidance. I had to size a new chain from scratch and preferred to join the two ends at the bottom of where the chain goes rather than on the chain wheel.
absolute gem video for bicycle lovers and how to check your chain tension. Information given adequately wirhout any further ado
These videos are very informational when put across by a professional like this chap, thumbs up from me!
Thank You Park Tool..
Definitive how-to-tight-a-bike-chain tutorial. Tough beard too!! 😉👍 - Greetings from Italy
Thank you Park Tool Channel, Greetings from indonesia
This is very informative. Gonna use this info to tighten my son's bike chain tension. It wasn't fun trying to fix the derailed chain roadside.
Cheers Ben, Love the look on your face when your inflated glove pinkie got stuck in the chain ring, just like my boss ! when I tell him I'm going home
guys, you deserve tons of likes
EXCELLENT INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO!! Just what I needed to fix chain length on an old 5-speed bike.
Best explanation. Concise and thorough. Thanks.
Really good video Ben very helpful. Keep them coming. Thanks.
Got damn man thank you so much. I been perplexed with this back tire for 4 days now and soon as I watched your video taking the chain off, BAM I got it.
Very excellent and well detailed instructional video! Appreciate it, man! 👊🏾
Chain tension- spin the cranks and hold bike so the outside face of the chainring is parallel to the ground, give the bike a good shake. If the chain is too loose it will fall off.
What if your chain doesn't have a master link.
Watch the video bro
Hey what if your chain doesn't have a C clip!? Because mine doesn't.
Brake the chain, add the link
Thanks a lot needed explanation for a great tension, greetings from France !!
Trying to figure this out on a three wheel trike, no axle adjustment room, but I think I got it! Thanks! Had to do it twice, too long first time Thank You for your help
Great video. Helped me greatly even though not very mechanically inclined!
Man this is the best video for this topic! Thanks a lot!
Again, you guys helped me. Thank you
Thanks for the amazing work. I put a brand new chain on the single-speed bike but yet has lots of noise which It didn't have with the old chain. I changed the front chainring but it makes that noise. Is it possible brand new chain has a factory defect?
Very good explanation. Thank you!
Best video about change and adjustments of a bike chain. Thanks for it!
Thanks for such a helpful video. This is way less intimidating, if only I had all the tools!
That axle bolt tool looks good. Wish Park tools did a BMX home tool kit.
08/13/22,,,amazing how much bicycle repair tricks a Person forgets after 40years. 👍🏼 also Amazing is buying an Adult Trike when exercise sux
This guide was good. But some points from my experience recently doing this:
1. I couldn't add two additional links to the chain length when sizing, as it took away all adjustment to get the chain tensioned properly, and as the chain will slacken over time it would be too long for the frame adjusters.
2. You should fully grease the connecting link before installing.
3. The retaining clip should have the closed section facing forward in the direction of chain travel.
Otherwise very useful guide... 👍
Regarding point one, I always size without the connecting link, so it will then lengthen by half an inch, when I add this later on...
Your background sounds is awesome
You mention that after finding the reference rivet to then add two more links (to make later rear wheel removal easier). Is this necessary for use on forward facing dropouts?
It is not necessary on forward facing drop outs.
I got my pinkie stuck between the front chainring and the chain when I was 7. I’m now 13 and still got the scar. Learnt from that mistake pretty quickly.
Brady Douglas amen brother got my pointer finger caught in the chain of my single speed
My finger just tingled with the memory of getting it caught in a friends drivetrain, after that day I had 11 nails
Your video help me very much thank you park tool
This was very helpful, thanks :)
Thanks for the video
Bravo 👏👌 good quality content
Most helpful video 😀
Hello, thank you for these series of videos, is there any intention to make a video about the suspension, in the mountain bike which is mostly fully suspension bike.
Can you do a video like this one but using a BMX with integrated tensioners, like BSD ALXV frame?
Awesome video - to the point..
Very good Works
I wonder how many cyclists, who do their own servicing, use a torque wrench for the various nuts and bolts. I have one but don't use it, and I've never stripped a thread or had bolts come loose.
Very good …. Had a good laugh with the fingers !
"Riveting stuff" - Calvin Jones
I new to the channel and I thought he was saying "ive been with park tool" and just cutting off
THANK YOU!!
Awesome & Thanks :)
One thing I am not sure about that is not entirely clear in this video , this ideal 12 mm amount of movement in the chain , is it 6mm up from where the chain sits and 6mm down to make 12mm alltogether ?, or 12mm up and 12 mm down , or just 12mm up from where the chain is sitting ?
Hey Ben! Is this tipe of masterlink at 1:00 directional? I have been using for years at the opossite side, luckily I never had any problems, but it does not mean that I did it correctly. Congratulations for all the videos about chains!! Love your channel an the brand!!
Flor.e.Cultura yes, the close side of the master link should face the direction in which the chain is moving. If the open side is facing the direction of chain movement there is a very little chance that it could catch on something and pop off. I've never heard of this happening to anyone, so there is no problem if you put it backwards.
What hapoen if fingers get caught in sprocket?? Do you still go all the way round or double back?
Great beard man 🤘
Always tighten the Left axle nut first and a torque wrench is unnecessary but I'm sure some people believe every sales pitch they here so....... But the rest of the video is good
Why the left nut must be tightened first ?
Didn't see a link, but what is the part used for the chain tensioner?
Park tool yessir
When my pedals are turning while pushing the bike, does this neccessarily mean that my chain tension is too tight? Greetings from Germany, great Video!
Not necessarily. If the freehub is tight and not spinning well, it can also move the pedals.
What chain tensioner do you use?
God! Why does every single bike installation have to be so hard! I just want a gold chain
This isn't difficult
@@houseofpills it isnt but I just managed to fuck it up somehow. Ugh chain is too short by a long way now i need a new chain fuck
Nice video
Nice video!
I've never in my life used a torque wrench on the axel nut. Have you ever in actual work?
that threw me too.. never seen it irl
I have
I work for the CAT dealer Zeppelin in Germany, in order to get stuck screwed connections the right torque is crucial. That's why all the screws have a control line. The installer confirms that the screw has been tightened with the correct torque.
you won't normally as steel, aluminium a few others are hard to damage but if you have carbon bike and no metal there then make sense but most times always be metal to clamp on no matter what, I use a torque wrench on my cassette, pedals, crank bolts, disc brake bolts, unless it carbon I do all rest with feel but at bike projects I often do all by feel as they not worry so much and just want it road worth that can be done without it
Great video! Where can I purchase that chain tensioner? I am looking everywhere for the one you use but can't seem to find it. I couldn't find it on parktool.com. Any suggestions?
Bit late but that is a surly tensioner
The chainring is on the left side of the bike (@ 9:37)? Looks as if you have your video mirrored..
Stadtradler some bmx's have a left side drivetrain if your right is your preferred "grind side" so you don't mess up your chairing, cog, and chain.
that chainline tho, especially for a fixed gear
Do you mean as displayed at timeframe 4:02? It looks like it's going in towards the back. Is that normal for a fixed-geared bike?
Ok got mine road bike but mine has one socket and the pedals go backwards when I move the bike forward how do I fix that
Is it necessary to move the wheel every time I replace a chain? Or not, if I size it after the old chain?
There should be relatively little chain slack in these chains. Keeping the chain pulled tight enough and connect it would be a good trick indeed.
Is there a trick to removing the clip with the pliers?
I don’t even need to take my chain off and im just watching cuz it entertaining
USE THE BLUNT END OF A TOOL TO CHECK CHAIN TENSION; NOT YOUR FINGER.
so chain without master link needs new pin/rivet?
I bought a bike and I wanna go with a bigger sprocket in the front I want to know how much is it so I can replace it how much is the part
What i need to do if i just wanna remove my single speed chain and put it back?
Depends if you have a master link or not. If you do just un do the link and remove the chain. If you do not you can push the pin 75% of the way out then pull the two sides of chain apart. To re install, the content from the video should have you covered.
thank you very much
Can this be applied exactly as is to Internally geared hubs? A not sure why but I can't find a video on just chain replacement for IGHs.
For the purposes of this video, single-speed = one chainring in front, one sprocket in back. You’re in the right place.
The extra inch is not net necessary. I needed to redo mine because of that. Very big slack even after pushing the wheel to the farthest end.
Is 17mm up-down movement too much movement for a conversion? I can't get any closer than this to the spec with an acceptable gear ratio.
Get the bike up in the air to pedal and test it. Pedal and push on the chain at the point between front are rear sprockets. Purposefully try to disengage the chain, and shove it off the sprocket. If it stays on, you are good.
thanks full
Question:
If I made a mistake in sizing a chain (cutting it too short), is it possible to add links with another quick link, or must I get a new chain instead?
Adding links is fine
@@MaplePanda04 They asked about "quick links", not regular links.
@@duckacid Quick links allow the user to add more links. I’m not sure what your objection is.
@@MaplePanda04 Adding links is one thing, adding quick links is one another thing. They asked about the latter, which your reply didn't address.
I noticed that bike has a Surly Tuggnut. Never used them before, thinking about getting one ... Serious question: Do you use one on each side or only on the drive side?
I prefer a chain tensioner on one side. The majority of force that is applied is being applied to the driveside. So this is where you will benefit the most from the chain tensioner. The Tuggnut is fantastic BTW.
Thank you, this helps a TON!
Can the surly tuggnut also be used with a front facing dropout?
Parktool? is there something wrong with this video, it looks like it is horizontal mirror image. The whole image shows drive train on the left side of the bike. at 7 minutes 55 seconds for few seconds, the drive train appears to right of the bike, then it changes to the left of the bike until the end of the video.
The bike at 7 mins 55 secs is a different bike, but with similar coloured red frame. The blue bike is a left hand drive BMX.
7 55 is on the left side because its a bmx and usually bmx bikes has their cranks onto the left. the rest are normal which are on the right side so the video is fine :)
Centering the wheel between the chainstays is done by looking at it from behind, and if it looks OK, that's good...? Just roughly eyeballing it is OK, a more accurate method isnt needed...?
On many frames, the chainstays aren't identical... how to handle that...?
Don't need a special tool for the master link, flex the chain sideways and the one side will pop loose - then slide out the link. Reverse to replace
that scene with the finger triggered me haha ... happened twice ... I still have all my 11 fingers still tho :)))
Good vid
Good looks bruh, took me an hour but we good, SLATT.
So question I do see a master link or whatever, it all looks the same. :( there also is a c clip anywhere
Hi, so I picked up a Schwinn two sprocket off the road recently. All it needed was some inner tubes and a little maintenance. But when I ride it hard and/or break hard, the chain slips off the rear sprocket, even though it’s plenty tight. Any suggestions? I’m guessing maybe the rear sprocket is just old and worn down a bit and needs to be replaced
That could be or possibly you have a stiff link in your chain. Interesting problem.
I thoroughly applied WD-40, twice. Could it still have a stiff link?
It could. A stiff link may not be a lubrication issue but sometimes a link of the chain has been bent. But this is more common on bikes with more than one gear. I guess i'm not super familiar with what you refer to as a two sprocket.
Also make sure to use another lubricant over the WD-40 (unless a chain oil product from WD-40) WD-40 proper is not a lubricant and acts as more of a solvent to break things up and leave a very thin residue to keep things from rusting.
@@parktool Single gear was what I meant, I thought I heard somebody refer to that as two sprocket also. Thanks very much for the help!
4:29 chain tension
is it safe to put too much tension on chain?
Too much tension on the chain can put added stress on the freewheel which can cause premature wear. I hope this helps!
it also snaps fixed gear chains *ahemisnappedmineyesterdayahem*
Bravo 😊
4:21 I was watching at 12:24 when he screamed and scared the sh*t out of me
Спасибо👍😁
in my single speed the chain drop off quite often, means there s not enough tension?
Thats likely the problem. Give that a try and see if it fixes the issue.
@@parktool that was quick! thanks
04:20 , i'm that guy...
And yes, it is extremely painful, taking into account the tight chain...
And another time I almost lost a finger because it was in one of the holes of the brake disc when I accidentally twisted the wheel a little...
I find chain tensioners on my big bmx actually hard to dial in
PLEASE HELP ME I JUST NEED TO REMOVE HALF OF THE CHAIN LINK BUT THEN I CANNOT FIT THE LINK TO CONNECT IT!!! If i do not remove it the chain is to lose.... and if i remove the whole link the chain is to short and the wheel will be tightent at the verry beginning of the forward drop outs.... what can i do !!!???
If you have a single speed there are often "half link connecting links that can resolve your issue. They come in eithere 3/32 or 1/8 depending on the chain that you have. Instead of 1" to remove or keep installed it is 1/2 inch. kmcchain.us/connector/415-ol/ Something like that but make sure the width is correct for your chain.
What is a connecting rivet?
It is a chain pin thats purpose is to connect the loose ends of a new chain together.
if you have a bike with no chain- how do you figure out what chain you need ?
@Bob Americana-if you have gears count the cogs on the cassette. The # of cogs = the speed of the chain u need
@@Matt-fe1cj thanks