We just bought an Ender 3 S1 Plus, it has a faulty SD card slot. The UK vendor and Creality are dragging their heals with replacement. Absolutely terrible support. So we haven't managed to print a thing and nobody is willing to replace it or supply a new main board.
The unstableness of the ABL on my S1 cost me way too much time to try to fix it. People with these machines are suffering, as you can see in the Facebook groups. I ended up leaving the S1 as a backup printer and mainly print on a Prusa instead (although the design is so old). Looking forward to your P1P review.👍🏼
It hasn’t caused any printer issues for me, but if you move your printers a lot, changing the spool hastily could bump it out of calibration. Just seems like something that could be easily fixed with a little extra TLC in design. Also if you are running klipper with extreme accelerations, a resonance could knock it out of calibration too.
You can now add the same touch screen to your Ender 3 S1 as what comes with the Ender 3 S1 Pro. I bought it for my S1 on Cyber Monday for $30 bucks 👍😜🎉
1. You can add a CR-10 pro light to it with a s1 harness. 2. Who the hell bumpd those machines like that? Yikes. Also the s1 plus is the s1 pro touch screen not the dail one
The buildplate is worthless. Get a glass plate or a sheet of 2-3 mm G10. Leveling it can be a nightmare. It seems like the manual levelling is doing one thing, and ABL is on a different planet. But it can produce some nice prints. I only use it if I have to make many duplicates or large models. Otherwise I am on the Prusa train.
appreciate showing the design differences. I'm waiting on my S1 delivery. Seems like ender wanted to shoe horn in this extra printing capacity and did it on the cheap and sacrificed unit stability. I think if I need to go bigger I would jump for the Ender 5 plus which provides even larger printing and better design setup. The Cost from a S1 plus to a 5 plus is minimal.
Tall Extrusion Uprights can be supported with Printer 45degree angle struts I suggest you do this asap! or buy Rear support Struts upgrades for $49Aud! Commonsense Sorry OR if you cant do that us thread locker on the bolts and spring washers to apply more tension to the uprights to mitigate the upright struts movement
A couple of questions: I’m planning to buy a new printer with a large printing area… on your holiday buyer guide you talked about the sidewinder x2… would you recommend it over the E3S1M? Do you have any upgrades you recommend for it? I’m currently own a E2Pro to do more precise jobs and now I want a larger and quicker printer to do board game inserts, that doesn’t need to look amazing. Thanks and keep the great work. ❤
The artillery X2 is the best value printer out at the moment. Check my links, geekbuying has had them on sale for about $260, which is insane for what you get. I plan on doing some mods to mine soon. It’s so good stock that I haven’t got around to do it yet, but I want to upgrade the extruder to a Bondtech LGX with an all metal heartbreak.
It's not unstable per say. The only thing is, if you bumped it hard enough it might come out of square. Automatic bed-leveling should be able to compensate for it, you just have to run the automatic leveling again and it'd probably print fine. But they should have designed the structure to be sturdy enough to not have to worry about that in my opinion.
id definitely add extrusion on the bottom and link it to the extrusion in the chassis or yoink a cr10 support bar and stiffen that thing up, definitely will have to modify the chassis either way. I love the new design but they should definitely have kept the old ender frame style if this was their best choice. it would have also meant the modding community could still go wild like they used to
Microswiss had a great black friday/cyber Monday sale and I picked up that NG extruder and some nozzles. Installed 3 days so far and I'm liking it. Included heat block is a little meh. But it's a great drop-in direct drive for my LK5.
The Sprite is good enough that you don't really need to replace it, but for anything with a single gear direct drive, or a bowden setup, it's a great upgrade
@@NathanBuildsRobots I was running stock bowden on Longer LK5 pro. Quite lacking in the extruder department with the single toothed gear against a roller. I was limiting my flowrate to 7mm3 to prevent the grinding of filament.
Good review, I'm having Bed levelling issues with my S1 Plus, can you point me in the right direction for the updated Firmware, I can't seem to find it. Thanks
Mi first 3d printer is a regular S1 would love for Creality to come out with a Ender 5 S5 pro if that makes sens i would love a bigger 3d printer then my S1.
That is an interesting thought. I think you would need to drill holes into the sides of the base plate... Then you would need 2x extrusions that are longer 2x side extrusions that are slightly longer and have different holes longer belt for synchronization on top Longer belts for X and Y axis New bottom extrusion new heated bed New X-Axis Carriage It's actually quite a bit of stuff, would end up costing around $100
I bought a new Ender 3 S1, after 6 months or more, still can't get a decent print without major stringing. Worst $300 I have ever spent. I bought a used Anycubic i3 mega for $50 off marketplace that prints far better than the S1.
@@NathanBuildsRobotsMy S1 also has the sprite hotend, direct drive, but it's not the all metal version. I have tried a few different brands of filament. I also have a ender 3 V2 that prints almost perfectly using the same filament. I have changed the nozzle a couple times. I have also changed retraction setting many times, I have got it ok, but no matter what its still stringy. I may update the software on the printer.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Update: I replaced the hot end with all metal, also replaced the oem cooling fan with a 5015 blower fan with a triple horn style duct. Spent an entire weekend tweaking and finally got it printing almost perfect with zero stringing.
Any chance you know what is different between the original MCU and the replacement? I had a F1 MCU that seemed great. The F4 MCU, not so much. It would be great to know what to ask for when I reach out to support. Thanks for the great content!
This is just team variety proving they are a bit clueless. Let's make a model which is a significant improvement over the last (Ender 3 S1 over the Ender 3 V2 Neo), then lets make another version of it which has a few more improvements (Ender 3 S1 Pro over the Ender 3 S1), then lets make ANOTHER version of it but this time lets go back to the drawing board and do things which are counterproductive, ie taking the gantry off the ground plate and secure it to the side of the base without a bracing kit, and lets add even more additional weight to the enlarged bed. They really need to stop doing the 3+ revisions of a model making it better and then making it worse. I don't even trust their touchscreens, for £80 you can't even find replacement panels for the display, you have to replace the entire thing so if it delaminates and presses start registering 30mm away from the actual point, how do you fix that? I can fix the button on my S1's control panel, but i can't fix a delaminated touchscreen.
Creailty printers kind of suck,, they just don't do any R&D and just sell the same crap over and over. Have a look at Elegoo printers there much better for roughly the same money.
I'll say don't buy S1. ABL's initial problems are nothing compared to how you illuminate a printed object from above. Then the true picture of the tragedy appears. I'm tired of this device. Creality continues to ignore the problem even though it is reported to them.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I secretly hope that you will ride like a knight on a white horse and save the souls tormented by this wonderful model. Meanwhile, on the official group, another same case.
@@tomek_kot my ender 5 S1 is also having bed level issues on the Sonic pad. Kind of insane that we are having issues like this 5ish years into creality making 3D printers
@@NathanBuildsRobots i have a very good first line so ABL works fine. But the higher you go, the worse it gets. We are clearly suffering for an inconsistent layer. I can email you some examples if you want.
If you need a replacement for the spool and sensor holder I have model on Thngvrs. User mddatthngvrs. Hope this helps And I am so looking forward to receiving the boards!
We just bought an Ender 3 S1 Plus, it has a faulty SD card slot. The UK vendor and Creality are dragging their heals with replacement. Absolutely terrible support. So we haven't managed to print a thing and nobody is willing to replace it or supply a new main board.
That sucks, and is definitely something that should be covered under warranty. What is the vendor so people know to stay away?
3DJake sold it. I am not impressed.
The unstableness of the ABL on my S1 cost me way too much time to try to fix it. People with these machines are suffering, as you can see in the Facebook groups. I ended up leaving the S1 as a backup printer and mainly print on a Prusa instead (although the design is so old).
Looking forward to your P1P review.👍🏼
Someone needs to end their suffering 🤡
You just need to add 1 line to your Gcode and your ABL will fix.
So who is walking around bumping printers ?
It hasn’t caused any printer issues for me, but if you move your printers a lot, changing the spool hastily could bump it out of calibration. Just seems like something that could be easily fixed with a little extra TLC in design. Also if you are running klipper with extreme accelerations, a resonance could knock it out of calibration too.
Those uprights..... And love the spool holder!
You can now add the same touch screen to your Ender 3 S1 as what comes with the Ender 3 S1 Pro. I bought it for my S1 on Cyber Monday for $30 bucks 👍😜🎉
Wow! Pumping out content lately!
Can you give a link to the new print bed sheet for the plus please?
1. You can add a CR-10 pro light to it with a s1 harness. 2. Who the hell bumpd those machines like that? Yikes. Also the s1 plus is the s1 pro touch screen not the dail one
The buildplate is worthless. Get a glass plate or a sheet of 2-3 mm G10. Leveling it can be a nightmare. It seems like the manual levelling is doing one thing, and ABL is on a different planet. But it can produce some nice prints. I only use it if I have to make many duplicates or large models. Otherwise I am on the Prusa train.
Great video. Save money. customer service is not existent in this company.
appreciate showing the design differences. I'm waiting on my S1 delivery. Seems like ender wanted to shoe horn in this extra printing capacity and did it on the cheap and sacrificed unit stability. I think if I need to go bigger I would jump for the Ender 5 plus which provides even larger printing and better design setup. The Cost from a S1 plus to a 5 plus is minimal.
Tall Extrusion Uprights can be supported with Printer 45degree angle struts I suggest you do this asap! or buy Rear support Struts upgrades for $49Aud! Commonsense Sorry OR if you cant do that us thread locker on the bolts and spring washers to apply more tension to the uprights to mitigate the upright struts movement
great review, now return your running shoes to the mud room!
Oh no, were they dirty?
A couple of questions:
I’m planning to buy a new printer with a large printing area… on your holiday buyer guide you talked about the sidewinder x2… would you recommend it over the E3S1M?
Do you have any upgrades you recommend for it?
I’m currently own a E2Pro to do more precise jobs and now I want a larger and quicker printer to do board game inserts, that doesn’t need to look amazing.
Thanks and keep the great work. ❤
The artillery X2 is the best value printer out at the moment. Check my links, geekbuying has had them on sale for about $260, which is insane for what you get.
I plan on doing some mods to mine soon. It’s so good stock that I haven’t got around to do it yet, but I want to upgrade the extruder to a Bondtech LGX with an all metal heartbreak.
Great review, thinking to buy one. Do you think an enclosure will solve the issue with the stability of the superstructure?
It's not unstable per say. The only thing is, if you bumped it hard enough it might come out of square. Automatic bed-leveling should be able to compensate for it, you just have to run the automatic leveling again and it'd probably print fine. But they should have designed the structure to be sturdy enough to not have to worry about that in my opinion.
if you don't manhandle it like I did, and aren't moving it around all the time, it is unlikely that you'd have problems with it.
Good points
Great video as always 👍😃
id definitely add extrusion on the bottom and link it to the extrusion in the chassis or yoink a cr10 support bar and stiffen that thing up, definitely will have to modify the chassis either way. I love the new design but they should definitely have kept the old ender frame style if this was their best choice. it would have also meant the modding community could still go wild like they used to
Yeah, I like the extrusion with all 4 sides being open
@@NathanBuildsRobots the plastic casing looks a bit too "gamery* with all of its gamer angles.
@@tophatvideosinc.5858 its missing the RGB LEDs and red accents
@@NathanBuildsRobots and the 120hz refresh rate ips display.
@@NathanBuildsRobots now that I think about it you might be able to play doom on the s1.
Which would you recommend Ender 3 S1 Plus or 5 S1? As a beginner, Thanx
Microswiss had a great black friday/cyber Monday sale and I picked up that NG extruder and some nozzles. Installed 3 days so far and I'm liking it. Included heat block is a little meh. But it's a great drop-in direct drive for my LK5.
The Sprite is good enough that you don't really need to replace it, but for anything with a single gear direct drive, or a bowden setup, it's a great upgrade
@@NathanBuildsRobots I was running stock bowden on Longer LK5 pro. Quite lacking in the extruder department with the single toothed gear against a roller. I was limiting my flowrate to 7mm3 to prevent the grinding of filament.
I got the Plus 1 Month ago. The gantry has dovetails to slide into the base. Maybe they updated it quietly?
That sounds interesting
Good review, I'm having Bed levelling issues with my S1 Plus, can you point me in the right direction for the updated Firmware, I can't seem to find it. Thanks
Is the frame rigid enough and is the working field stable ?
Mi first 3d printer is a regular S1 would love for Creality to come out with a Ender 5 S5 pro if that makes sens i would love a bigger 3d printer then my S1.
The Ender 5 S1 Pro Plus with a 300x300 build area would be great. I would like to see it with a built-in klipper interface like the sonic pad.
Would you consider making conversion kits for S1 to S1 Plus (basically just the aluminium extrusion)?
That is an interesting thought. I think you would need to drill holes into the sides of the base plate...
Then you would need
2x extrusions that are longer
2x side extrusions that are slightly longer and have different holes
longer belt for synchronization on top
Longer belts for X and Y axis
New bottom extrusion
new heated bed
New X-Axis Carriage
It's actually quite a bit of stuff, would end up costing around $100
@@NathanBuildsRobots it would be worth it though. The s1 sells for very cheap compared to the plus
I bought a new Ender 3 S1, after 6 months or more, still can't get a decent print without major stringing. Worst $300 I have ever spent. I bought a used Anycubic i3 mega for $50 off marketplace that prints far better than the S1.
Interesting, my stringing issues have always been caused by bad filament, bad retraction settings, Bowden tubes, or bad nozzles
@@NathanBuildsRobotsMy S1 also has the sprite hotend, direct drive, but it's not the all metal version. I have tried a few different brands of filament. I also have a ender 3 V2 that prints almost perfectly using the same filament. I have changed the nozzle a couple times. I have also changed retraction setting many times, I have got it ok, but no matter what its still stringy. I may update the software on the printer.
@@JasonSmith-pc6kr might be worth upgrading to an all metal hotend
@@NathanBuildsRobots Update: I replaced the hot end with all metal, also replaced the oem cooling fan with a 5015 blower fan with a triple horn style duct. Spent an entire weekend tweaking and finally got it printing almost perfect with zero stringing.
What PEI sheet are you using for the Plus?
I don’t recall, I just get the cheapest stuff on Amazon
This printer needs an all metal hotend upgrade and it's firmware must be altered to accommodate 300c.
Any chance you know what is different between the original MCU and the replacement? I had a F1 MCU that seemed great. The F4 MCU, not so much. It would be great to know what to ask for when I reach out to support.
Thanks for the great content!
MCU.. Not sure I get that. Do you mean the microcontroller on the mainboard? I can check. Can you join the discord so you can follow up on this?
On your ender5 video the print ( benchy( is horrible so what's the sense of the speed ?
lol i see a swiss miss ng on there haha
This is just team variety proving they are a bit clueless.
Let's make a model which is a significant improvement over the last (Ender 3 S1 over the Ender 3 V2 Neo), then lets make another version of it which has a few more improvements (Ender 3 S1 Pro over the Ender 3 S1), then lets make ANOTHER version of it but this time lets go back to the drawing board and do things which are counterproductive, ie taking the gantry off the ground plate and secure it to the side of the base without a bracing kit, and lets add even more additional weight to the enlarged bed.
They really need to stop doing the 3+ revisions of a model making it better and then making it worse.
I don't even trust their touchscreens, for £80 you can't even find replacement panels for the display, you have to replace the entire thing so if it delaminates and presses start registering 30mm away from the actual point, how do you fix that? I can fix the button on my S1's control panel, but i can't fix a delaminated touchscreen.
We can't stop working until there are 100 models of Ender 3!
Creailty printers kind of suck,, they just don't do any R&D and just sell the same crap over and over.
Have a look at Elegoo printers there much better for roughly the same money.
I'll say don't buy S1. ABL's initial problems are nothing compared to how you illuminate a printed object from above. Then the true picture of the tragedy appears. I'm tired of this device. Creality continues to ignore the problem even though it is reported to them.
I would like to add some lights in there.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I secretly hope that you will ride like a knight on a white horse and save the souls tormented by this wonderful model. Meanwhile, on the official group, another same case.
@@tomek_kot my ender 5 S1 is also having bed level issues on the Sonic pad. Kind of insane that we are having issues like this 5ish years into creality making 3D printers
@@NathanBuildsRobots i have a very good first line so ABL works fine. But the higher you go, the worse it gets. We are clearly suffering for an inconsistent layer. I can email you some examples if you want.
@@tomek_kot sure, or better yet post them on our discord so can take a look 👀
Stop bending it
If you need a replacement for the spool and sensor holder I have model on Thngvrs. User mddatthngvrs. Hope this helps
And I am so looking forward to receiving the boards!
Nice, I will print one out!