First Gen Cummins 47RH Lockup Transmission Conversion + Ratchet Shifter Install
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- In this video I cover installing a 47rh in a first gen dodge and all the things you’ll have to do
I don’t show it step by step but rather focus on things you’ll have to look out for or fabricate
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Catching up on your other videos... great content feller 👍👍👊
Well it's about time you posted a video lol , good content man
Enjoyed this, super informative and to the point. Thanks bud
Love your vids, very informative!
It’s not a skid plate it’s a support bracket for the transfer case so all the weight isn’t hanging on your aluminum tail housing. A few good pot holes and you’ll have a reason to make some more content 😂
🙌🏻🙌🏻 thinking about wiring in a lockup switch on my 2g. This helps!
I wired one up on my 95 12valve. Toggle switch to turn power on and off, with a trolling motor momentary foot switch to engage and disengage lock up on the fly with my left foot. Made it way more fun to drive and much quicker accelerating in traffic.
Ive found that the vibrant fittings are pretty good for not needing drilled out they make sure the fittings are as large as can be so theres no restrictions but i compared the vibrant fittings to the ones i have from i think amazon and the amazon ones are so restricted without being drilled i actually had a couple people come back so i could drill out their fittings because they bought their own parts and i installed them.. i use vibrant only but im in the states so i dont have the extra bullshit fees you guts get charged judt to buy something and have it shipped to you.. its ridiculous how much they charge you guys north of the border❤❤❤
The local place I go to for fittings stocks red horse fittings so that’s what I’ve usually ran, but I’ve been going to a hydraulic shop more lately and getting steel fittings so even if I drilled them out they’re a lot stronger than a drilled out aluminum fitting. It all adds up and makes a difference!
Thanks for all the great comments you left man! Sorry it took me a bit to get to them
So I have a 97 4x4 3500, having issues with transmission going in an out of overdrive between 55-65, I’ve tried the bd diesel inline diode thing that didn’t help, any thoughts?
You mention you are selling those mounts but I didn't see them on your website. I would love to buy one.
Oh shit, yeah sorry I totally forgot about that! I had someone else ask as well, let me cut a couple out here and make a listing! I’ll comment again when I have it on there
That’s a good looking trans cooler, what brand is it? My 3rd gen trans runs hot when towing uphill, I plan on deleting the heat exchanger and adding an additional trans cooler as well. I wonder if it should be installed before or after the factory cooler? Thanks for the video, Jim.
It’s a B&M super cooler, generally when people install a new trans cooler they just delete the factory one and run the 1, keeps the plumbing simpler, however if you did want to run both it wouldn’t really make much difference as far as the order of them goes, the fuel has to pass through them regardless! I would recommend a mishimoto bolt in upgrade trans cooler if you want something easy, I’ve seen lots of people run them and they’re a good improvement. The super cooler is a beast thouvh
Hey man, am currently doing the same thing for my 1stgen. Is the lockup and over switch the only wires you run for the transmission. Because on the left side of the tranny there's a big old plug, did you just plug it? Or did you hook something up to it THNANKS!!
Hey! The plug on the left is for the neutral safety switch and the reverse lights. I thiiiiiink purple is reverse, I can’t quite remember, but on the 3 pin plug up top you just have power and 2 ground wires for OD and lockup
nice setup. can you tell me if you had to move your cross member back? did you use the factory holes? thx
I used the factory holes for the crossmember but made a different adaptor plate
@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge thanks for the reply. are you selling the plate? if so ill take one
any for sale? need help:)
which outlaw shifter did you go with?
Its one for a 727 if you look on summit, 616331
Where do I get the shifter cable for this ?
It came with the TCI shifter in the kit
However it’s a very tight fit, it would be nice to have another foot longer
Can you tell me how you fit the dipstick tube?
I think I just used the stock 518 dipstick tube, maybe bent it a little
I used the 47rh tube, cut to 518 length and used the 518 dipstick
Where do you get good transmission cooler lines?
I buy fittings and hose from Vibrant and make them myself
Summit racing is a good alternative too
@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge Thankx.
What you set tv too?
105-110 at idle, 175psi WOT
@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge I'm sorry should of specified. Linkage 70%, 80%, wot, Normal functioning Linkage? Thank you.
I know everyone all patting you on the back and stuff, so I'm sorry that I have to speak negatively. The way you decided to approach TC lock up along with OD via switches is the WORST way of doing it. YES, I know LOTS of people do it this way. But just because everyone else is doing it doesn't make it a good solution. When OD and TC lock up are on switches it makes the truck SUCH A PAIN in the ass to drive. And the number of times you WILL forget to unlock TC and stall the truck at a stop sign or light will drive you nuts. Or forget to unlock OD and try to take off......... same results.
Fortunately, there's a better way of doing it. The 47RH is a mechanically governed trans just like the old school 727. And that governor has a roughly 1 to 1 pressure rate VS MPH (there is some variability of course) So at 35MPH the governor is producing +- 35PSI, at 25MPH - 25PSI, at 50MPH - 50PSI. You get the point. Simply Tee off the governor pressure check port to 2x HOBBS switches (PSI switches) 1x for TC lock up and 1x for OD command. Supply 12v+ and Gounds VIA the 2 Hobbs switches and you have a FULLY functional trans that you DONT have to babysit. And if you use adjustable Hobbs switches you can tune TC lockup and OD to your hearts content.
And given the nature of Parallel circuits combined with Series circuits its STUPIDLY easy to automatically control TC Unlock and OD downshift. The last one I did was for a Cummins swapped Hummer H1. And I used a TV cable from a 700r4 off of the factory linkage to 2x pull switches (normally closed) The first switch tripped at +- 25% throttle. Which broke the TC lockup circuit. There is your TC unlock with throttle application. The second switch tripped at +- 45% throttle. Which broke the OD circuit. There is your OD down shift with throttle application. And I even installed a TOW/HAUL mode switch, which broke Both the TC and OD circuit's (TC unlocked, Max 3rd gear). In retrospect I could have just piggy backed off of the 47RHs TV cable bracket down on the trans. But it was a pain to reach at the time so it was easier to just build the kick down mechanisms off of the pumps bracketry........
What you’re saying makes sense and is definitely a sensible approach to the OD and Lockup switches, in a way you can make a standalone OD and lockup controller off of basic switches. Your method would also allow for good reproducibility that can be better for drag racing
I prefer the switched shifter because of the total user control, when I drove my truck sometimes I’d like to hit lockup early and buzz around 1200rpm, sometimes I like to hit it late and bog down the rpm, sometimes I’ll run 3rd out before hitting fourth, the nut behind the wheel is the unpredictable trans instead of the transmission computer and that’s the appeal to the MVB!
@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge You can still run command switches like you did. Just run them in parallel to the circuits I described above. The trans doesn't care where it gets +12v and ground (it can get it from the hobbs switches OR from your "command" switches). With the command switches "off" the trans runs like any other auto (more accurately runs how you tune the hobbs switches). But you can override and command "on" whenever you feel like. However, without a Tow/HAUL mode (both hobbs switches de-powered) you won't be able to leave TC lock up, and OD in an "off" state. So, if you want full command install a tow/haul circuit. In your mind rename it to "manual mode" and parallel in your individual switches. That way, when it's NOT in manual mode anyone else can drive it like a normal auto. Wife, Kids, Loaned to a friend.......? ect. But when you drive it, just hit the "manual mode" (which disables Both of the hobbs circuits) button and you have full control.
Ha fkn pos!