Thank you - my dad showed me how to do this with a coping saw and I couldn't remember the trick (turning the wood 90 deg). Since I don't have that saw, I performed your method with my wife holding a hand-held belt sander sideways for me 🙂 It's really brilliant!
Nicely done, I'm sure it took a long time to figure this out. I wish you would have shown the installed project for reference. I will use this on my vaulted ceiling to tongue and groove. Well done!
It’s a nice way to do a cope especially if you’re working on shoe moulding like this. Some of my install videos have me installing the shoe moulding using this technique. Maybe check one out.
I bought a house in Pensacola that was built in 1949 and has the same shoe molding cut the same way and I couldn’t figure out how they did it I wonder if they used the same method as you?
That house sounds pretty cool. I’m sure that the method they used was similar Or maybe a coping saw which I think is more common. Just maybe not original to the house. I wonder if this type of moulding was used back then. Thanks for leaving A comment.
Thanks for asking. I’d say that a rotary tool wouldn’t be my first choice to get this job done. But if it was all I had, I’d try it. A regular belt sander is great too. I use one all the time on the job site.
For what it's worth, that's what I'm using. I use the dremel when coping the molding, and with the different attachments is SOOOO much easier than a coping saw, which is a revolting, useless tool (IMO). HUGE salute to the pro's who must've spent God-knows how many hours learning how to cope with a coping saw. But, I digress.... I'm smack in the middle of laying LVP, molding, and coping throughout my entire upstairs. I'll Cut a 45, the back cut it at 30, then the dremel for about literally 20sec, to get the general shape, then to get that perfect curvature, I put 150 grit adhesive sand paper on a spare piece of coping to fine "tune' it, to get that curve perfect. And, like coping a regular piece of molding, it's just the edge making contact that is the most important. Hopefully, all that made sense. In short, YES! The Dremel was much, much easier, in my experience.👍
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore you know you've made it to adulthood where this is a moment of great satisfaction. Just saying. Well explained, great info.
Depending on the profile. Some mouldings have intricate profiles that may not be possible to get into with a round sanding drum. For those times I use different methods. Belt sander, grinder, files. Try one and be see how the profile sands. I do have a belt attachment for this sander but I find my go to for hand scribing on site is my trim belt sander. I’m sure you’ll find many of my videos where I show scribing or certain jobs. Fitting counters etc. check those out to see how I scribe different things.
Why raise it up just put a quarter inch or half inch spacer right next to the drum so you just running quarter round with the end against the drum quarter inch higher than the opposite end.. you'll get even better more accurate copes because there's no free lifting..
The thing is, as I sand I move the piece a bit and I think a guide might prohibit that. But seriously though, I did this with 1 hand while videotaping. That’s a feat in itself. Lol. It’s much quicker with two hands.
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore Not practical for the average person. Who's gonna have that on a job. Another carpenter only. Not me or anyone I know. We are going to have a coping saw and file. Great idea though!
@@paulgingo7163 watch this video. How To Cope Base Moulding Using a Drill and Belt Sander- Simple but Great Results!!! ua-cam.com/video/Slj21KDM6oI/v-deo.html
Wow! Just what I was looking for as I couldn't wrap my head around the process. And I just happen to have this spindle sander. Better yet. Thank you!
I just did this tonight and it worked beautifully. Much appreciated.
Glad to hear it. Awesome. Thanks
Thank you - my dad showed me how to do this with a coping saw and I couldn't remember the trick (turning the wood 90 deg). Since I don't have that saw, I performed your method with my wife holding a hand-held belt sander sideways for me 🙂 It's really brilliant!
Awesome. So glad it helped you. Good job and thanks for sharing.
Awesome!!! Nice work! Thanks for the tip.
You’re welcome. Thank you.
Best advice ever
Thank you so much.
@@traviscole7069 you’re welcome. Thank you.
Nicely done, I'm sure it took a long time to figure this out. I wish you would have shown the installed project for reference. I will use this on my vaulted ceiling to tongue and groove. Well done!
It’s a nice way to do a cope especially if you’re working on shoe moulding like this. Some of my install videos have me installing the shoe moulding using this technique. Maybe check one out.
I don't want to buy this tool that makes this easy and wonderful!
I bought a house in Pensacola that was built in 1949 and has the same shoe molding cut the same way and I couldn’t figure out how they did it I wonder if they used the same method as you?
That house sounds pretty cool. I’m sure that the method they used was similar Or maybe a coping saw which I think is more common. Just maybe not original to the house. I wonder if this type of moulding was used back then. Thanks for leaving A comment.
Pretty Awesome. Thanks
Thank you Allen. I appreciate it.
What about using a rotary tool to get this same result? Would you recommend? I’m new to trim carpentry. Thanks
Thanks for asking. I’d say that a rotary tool wouldn’t be my first choice to get this job done. But if it was all I had, I’d try it. A regular belt sander is great too. I use one all the time on the job site.
For what it's worth, that's what I'm using. I use the dremel when coping the molding, and with the different attachments is SOOOO much easier than a coping saw, which is a revolting, useless tool (IMO). HUGE salute to the pro's who must've spent God-knows how many hours learning how to cope with a coping saw. But, I digress....
I'm smack in the middle of laying LVP, molding, and coping throughout my entire upstairs. I'll Cut a 45, the back cut it at 30, then the dremel for about literally 20sec, to get the general shape, then to get that perfect curvature, I put 150 grit adhesive sand paper on a spare piece of coping to fine "tune' it, to get that curve perfect. And, like coping a regular piece of molding, it's just the edge making contact that is the most important. Hopefully, all that made sense. In short, YES! The Dremel was much, much easier, in my experience.👍
So good.....
Thank you very much. I’m glad you liked it.
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore you know you've made it to adulthood where this is a moment of great satisfaction. Just saying.
Well explained, great info.
@@etiquettefiend too funny. good call.
Can this be done with chair rail where they join in the corners?
Depending on the profile. Some mouldings have intricate profiles that may not be possible to get into with a round sanding drum. For those times I use different methods. Belt sander, grinder, files. Try one and be see how the profile sands. I do have a belt attachment for this sander but I find my go to for hand scribing on site is my trim belt sander. I’m sure you’ll find many of my videos where I show scribing or certain jobs. Fitting counters etc. check those out to see how I scribe different things.
What is the RIGID Product Model # shown in this video? Thanks!
I can’t say for sure. But it’s the only sander they sell. So look up rigid oscillating spindle sander.
Hilarious that he didn't mention the actual model in the description as he listed EVERY OTHER thing has in the shop.
Why raise it up just put a quarter inch or half inch spacer right next to the drum so you just running quarter round with the end against the drum quarter inch higher than the opposite end.. you'll get even better more accurate copes because there's no free lifting..
If you need that to give you good results then I think you should do that.
Just think how efficient it would be if u clamped a guide down on the sander......😉
The thing is, as I sand I move the piece a bit and I think a guide might prohibit that. But seriously though, I did this with 1 hand while videotaping. That’s a feat in itself. Lol. It’s much quicker with two hands.
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore I was just thinking to stop u from going to far, you can still work it..... I'm gonna give it a try
@@ryananthony4840 I’m just glad you are going to use this method. You’ll love it.
That is crown molding not cove
It’s not either. It’s called shoe moulding and it’s being coped.
Not practical if you're on a job! Duh!
What do you mean? I do it on the job site all the time.
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore Not practical for the average person. Who's gonna have that on a job. Another carpenter only. Not me or anyone I know. We are going to have a coping saw and file. Great idea though!
@@paulgingo7163 watch this video. How To Cope Base Moulding Using a Drill and Belt Sander- Simple but Great Results!!!
ua-cam.com/video/Slj21KDM6oI/v-deo.html
You don’t need a bench top sander to do it either.
You talk to much!!
Thanks for sharing