Hey y’all. I am a composite specialist and would like to offer advice. Your layup schedule is nearly perfect. The only thing I would add is a piece of peel ply to the back side if you plan to do a layup on the opposite side later. When bagging leave plenty of extra bag for making pleats and putting ports in. Don’t be too sparing with it. If your bag is too small It can lead to voids in the part as well as uneven pressure causing a deformed part. When working with angles and radius’s give relief cuts in your peel ply, release film, breather, and perforated layer. So cut all the corners and do small overlaps with the materials I just said at every corner. Then When you bag it add negative folds into the bagging material to allow stretch and movement in each corner. (Have a fold in the bagging material thats flopping away from the corner or radius) It will ensure no voids and a nice tight squeeze from your vacuum pump. Make sure there is absolutely no leaks in your bagging material. This is why your first layup was dry and did not bond. You want zero air leakage. When you are vacuum bagging optimal vacuum pressure is 26.0in or higher. If you cannot achieve that high pressure with your pump it’s ok it won’t hurt the part it just won’t be as compressed. So have no worry about over vacuuming your parts. In fact the more the better. You are only going to suck air from the layup not resin. It is ok to be resin rich when bagging a part. Your breather will soak up the excess resin. The resin is actually squeezing out not sucking out. The only time resin will suck out is if there is an air leak. NO LEAKS. I saw comments about you need a pressure pot for overflow resin. This is not necessary unless you are doing what’s called vacuum infusions. This is where you do the entire layup dry and then push resin through the part. If you decide to do that I’d love to offer advice for you there. But for now will stick to bagging. Lastly do not be sparing with your Butyl tape. Id recommend don’t buy it online from a composite store if you can avoid it. It’s very common in the roofing section of a hardware store. Just ask for Butyl tape. It’s the same stuff just cheaper. You will go through a lot of Butyl tape bagging parts. Lastly to avoid excess heat when doing a layup I wouldn’t recommend applying more then 6 layers of material at one time. This will assure you don’t have an exothermic reactions which will weaken your bond or light on fire. I hope this helps you a little bit, if you have any questions feel free to ask. I will help where I can.
Hey Buddy, you NEED to reach out to Matt from Duracell project. He’s a complete pro at vacuum bagging and making/installing parts into pre-existing boat structures!
Have loved watching your videos…. From number one up to the latest one in the workshop, at times binged watched while on nights at work, taking me into your world on the water…. Hope Jade has a safe trip to her family keep up the good work that you both do…. will look out for your next video take care regards Les from the UK 🇬🇧
Definitely check out the Duravel project lots of vacume bagging on that boat rebuild. For the hardener get a squeeze bottle that you can cut a small opening in to easier control the amount you put in. It will let you do anything from drops to steam depending how hard you squeeze it.
Additionally youtube.com/@youngbarnacles is there in Barcelona Spain working on a Americans Cup project, He is a master class of carbon fibre construction having been on the build teams & crews of multiple cup racing yachts. He and his kids are also pretty good at rigging & sail trimming.
Hi 👋, after first running your pump, doublecheck to make sure your oil level is correct, and check before every time, There are some silicon brushes on the market, which are supposed to be very good for doing layup as they are easier to clean, And as for cutting carbon fibre that are some scissors, you can get some discs. You can use on a angle grinder, type machine or even a Dremel., and I have seen somewhere where you can get jigsaw blades, and I’ve heard of device caught a wet saw, And I suggest you use a breathing mask whenever you’re cutting material and keep it on as there will be dust particles in the air, i’m not a professional, but I have done quite a lot of layup many years ago, making radio control hydros, which had to be very, very strong, I hope this can be some help to you, Completely changing the subject, not sure where you are located, but there is a storm coming across called Irene, It’s supposed to be very bad, I hope your boat is secure, I think they said Highwinds, very bad storms relating to rain and snow and sleet, stay safe keep up the great work, look forward to seeing your next stage in your project,
Hi Bret, I can appreciate the desire to fire up the vacuum pump and get your hands sticky to get a feel for your materials and it is evident you need to purchase a few more odds and ends. I would say you are days and days if not weeks away from actually glassing anything as you need to get the foam cores bonded together, trial fitted together, mounting points defined and finally shaped before any glass is wetted out. If you intend to run the carbon inner core tubes in the rear arches these will likely be the first things needing laminating before building the structure around them.
Hey. You should definitely get a resin trap in the vacuum line before the pump. This will prevent epoxy being sucked into the pump and destroying it. They are simple devices, often just a pot with an airtight lid and two ports in the top. Epoxy from the part will be drawn up the pipe and into the trap, but it will just sit in there instead of continuing on to the pump.
2:40 Everything everywhere except the US will be metric, so my suggestion is that you learn how to multiply & divide by ten real quick if you plan on doing more projects & repairs 😁.
Your question re cement dust or concrete dust. Cement is basically a liquid slurry that bonds the aggregate together when hardened. The hardened (cured) stuff is concrete. thus, the dust comes from the concrete. Concerning viscosity, think of your car. You probably use multi-wt oil (ie 5-20 or 10-30). In the winter, do you want to start the car with a very thick sludge or a very thin slippery oil? The multi weight oil starts off at the first number and changes to the second number as it warms up. Thus, the lower number is the more liquid like.
Talk to Mads from Sail Life. I think he used this process (or a very similar one) to build the rudder for Athena. He has a few videos on it on his channel.
Hi Bret, couple of helpful tips I hope, put your scales in a plastic bag that catches all of the spills, and it’s replaceable , a heat mat speed up the cure 4 hours at 50 degrees usually works for small items and you can do a couple in a day. Some syringes for the harder, and a silly point when pouring out a ‘thin’ liquid have the opening of the container furthest away from the pot this stops the ‘glug ’ An idea for the actual job, on the under side of the dinghy hardtop lay in some cable space for 2 forward red night lights, 2 white stern down lights and a manual search light…..just some thoughts looking forward to the rest.
This is pretty exciting stuff. Great video as always. Very cool filming (do we still call it that?) with the footsteps in slow-mo. You've some great techniques and could teach classes on that if you were bored. Hope everything is fine with Jades family, and she comes back no worse for wear. She's missed when she's gone. She makes a great vid into an Awesome one.
You should probably have a reservoir between the pump and the bag to gather excess resin before you suck it into the pump. See MJ's first attempt!! Also, you should practise actually infusing the resin from a supply container for when you do bigger pieces.
Brett, Did you check the batting layer above the release film ? Guessing the resin was drawn into that matrix instead of intended fiberglass. For the folds in the vacuum film (red layer) pre test fit to prep & mark where you want them and place a tiny strip of butyl or adhesive putty there. Think 3D... If you've sealed it right there should not be a need to run vacuum pump 24 hours, You could get a timer/pressure monitoring switch to cycle power on off for really big full scale parts. If the vacuum was complete, the batting materials should have gotten compressed much more and avoided the wicking of resin away from intended test part. PS Just subscribed to new channel !
That happened because you had an air leak so the resin was able to be sucked out. If everything was sealed the pump should suck to a certain pressure and stop there. In this case pressure level 11.
On building and engineering in the metric system all measurements are usually in millimetres so 4x4 becomes 100x100 mm (dressed it’s 90x90 mm). (25.4 mm / inch). Vacuum at 1 atmosphere is 14.7 psi.
Hi, take it from someone who started life with the imperial system and now uses a hybrid system of imperial and metric, metric is simple. As a base 10 system you should be used to working with it but you do have all those fingers and toes to count on, unless you are a much more clumsy diyer than I take you for 🤪🤪🤪.
There is a guy that builds planes from scratch from nothing. I'll think you be impressed to watch what he does. Channel name is "Mike Patey". Super smart and super friendly. Wants everyone to succeed no matter what they do. Good luck.
I assume you made a principle mistake. - You had a structure beyond, - between structure and glass was a lot of air. With extracting the air you passed the resin out of the glass. " Normal" infusion has a structure, glass over it but dry. Then this is evacuated for a long time. When there is nearly no air inside, the resin is introduced to that structure.
Cabosil for thickener and graphite mixed together with medium Raka marine epoxy I used as bottom paint on my ocean fishing boat made a bullet proof bottom paint that repelled growth. And was slick low drag.
Another thing Matt did on Duracell was a sealed solvent bucket to keep tools in so they were always clean and ready. Each project he starts with opening the bucket.
0:21 “ Monstrosity “. Jade (YES) he LOVES ❤️ you REGARDLESS. Just make sure you get to share Passionate Kisses underneath the “hard top” once all is finished. You two kids are : cute together!
I am so impressed with you two. Anyone else would just go and buy the parts of the boat that you are building or just buy a new boat. What you are attempting is remarkable and I am so very impressed. You two are smart and creative and I know it’s going to turn out great.
Hi Bret and Jade, if you are doing your project in Barcelona, I'd like to help. I'm a US expat with a lot in common with you. I live here in Barcelona, am a former pilot, and sailor. Let me know by way of reply to this comment the best way to reach you or, if you feel comfortable with telling me which shared workshop you're using, and I'll get in touch or stop by. I'm available to lend a hand if you like or would love to at least stop by and say hi. I've watched all your videos to date and am a big fan. Ken.
Instead of frantically starting, list everything you’ll need and go get it. Watch your comments here and see what the experts are saying. Things you don’t know are important to know. Good luck Evans. 😊
I don't think bagging will pull the resin out of your project, it pulls all air out of your project so the resin will infuse. If there is too much resin being used, too much for the diaper to absorb, you will get resin in your vac tube. I don't understand why your project came out dry, did you find where the resin went? Is it perhaps the wrong sort of resin, one that goes to vapor under vacuum? It was surf shop resin, it should have worked fine.
A couple of thoughts from experience..... I built a small boat some years ago, using the epoxy encapsulation stitch and glue procedure. I used System 3 epoxy, but they're likely all the same. My epoxy had no smell, either, but I could feel the "presence" in my nose. Toward the end of the project I started to develop a heaviness in my chest that went away when I went back out into clean air. I "believe" it was a mild sensitizing to the resin and started using a home made fresh air supplied mask toward the end. It worked. Also, proper saturation of the resin into the cloth uses very little resin. When rollering it on, I squeegeed it out till the weave was clearly visible and felt when cured, using 6 oz. cloth. Then a light coat later to back it up and "just" fill the weave. You don't want to sand into the weave. A little experimenting showed me that cloth prepared that way was very strong and flexible. With more resin, it became brittle when cured. Check yours for strength as well as dryness. That's critical for optimum strength.
Hey guys I'm from Barcelona, I work at BCN airport, I follow your channel from the beginning, my weekends are off so if you guys need a hand, I'm glad to help you, if your a near Barcelona. Regards
The blanket is called breather and allows the vacuum to pull the bag down overall. It is also used to bleed the resin out. The perforated film is available in different hole size and spacing for different bleeding needs.
I just almost had a heart attack 🤣 Not really of course. I clicked on a link of one of your videos and then on your channel I saw only 2 videos!!! Just 2! What happened to the rest of your channel!!!??? And then I realized I was on Expedition Engineering 😅 Well done on the new channel 👌
Thats kind of an awkward shape to vacuum bag. The process is really best for simple flat shapes that the material can conform to prior to the vacuum being applied. Basically if you can't get the material to lie close to what your glassings the process won't do it for you.
I had to re-sub when u mentioned people were being de-subbed by youtube. It happened to me also. I know for a fact that I never unsubbed cause I been fascinated with this channel after seeing you guys featured on Jake and Nicole offgrid. So youtube is doing something to make you guys lose subs.
If you have 2 x 4, length is usually in measured in feet. Soo... In Europe 2 x 4 is usually in mm, so think 1" = 25mm, and then length is in meters. However sometimes you will use mm. Also get rid of your ratcheting power driver. Screws in Europe do not handle well with it. You can use it for large screws, but not small screws. They will crack ahead of time and don't use it anymore.
metric system - all you need to know is to multiply or divide by 10. To quickly convert in your head, remember that 1in is about 2.5cm and 10cm is about 4in. Weight-wise, 1lb is about 0.5 kg, or 500g.
Hey Brett, Enjoy your channels. Need any help with anything related to composite manufacturing I’ve been in the business for 40 plus years. Keep the videos coming. Donnie
But how can you not be good at metric measurements. If you are a pilot you have to be good at mathematics, and converting between imperial and metric is just remember a few simple numbers and then convert. Don't multiply and divide by 2.54 in your head. Try to remember easy numbers for example 4 inches is about 10 cm, and 3 meters is about 10 feet, easy numbers that don't have decimal points. Then whatever you are trying to convert first convert your measurements into those easy numbers and it will be a really easy conversion.
Safety first young man! Get rid of blades and use proper cutting tools..Sticky fingers have a habit of curling blades round fingers and allowing severe flowing of the red stuff.
In my vac bagging I'm happy if I get voids sucked out and the layup running flat with no distortion in the weave. I get worried if my vacuum gets to 2psi. I try to stop it there. At that point all your doing is making the part lighter, but not changing the structure's strength.
MJ Sailing are doing lots & lots of fiberglass work, they are building a boat which looks like foam sandwich with fiberglass both sides, thought this might be good for your Dodger roof
I've been watching The Duracell Project rebuild Duracell from an ocean racer to a cruiser his fist editions contained a lot of vacuum bagging plus so much more I hope this helps
Excited to see your progress. Cover your scale with a piece of the vacuum bag material to keep it clean. Yes, definitely wear a mask around fiberglass. Definitely check out and maybe contact Matt at the Durrell Project.
@@ExpeditionEvans it’s not something that I have a link to. It’s a commercial that plays between or during videos. Next time I see it, I’ll try to get more details.
it's more scary beccause it's going to be out where it can be SEEN....it's not something you can't DO ....stay positive, and GO FOR IT !....OnWard...........
I'm disproportionately excited about your build videos. Also, maybe check out his heated vacuum table for some tips (probably towards the end) for setting up the layers: ua-cam.com/video/Q53pBOs0sWc/v-deo.html maybe not the same since you're using resin.
Always such a pleasure to watch your videos. I feel we all get more anxious about things the older we get which might explain why this feels more nervous to do than the structure maybe! Anyways thanks as always! 😊
Hey y’all. I am a composite specialist and would like to offer advice. Your layup schedule is nearly perfect. The only thing I would add is a piece of peel ply to the back side if you plan to do a layup on the opposite side later.
When bagging leave plenty of extra bag for making pleats and putting ports in. Don’t be too sparing with it. If your bag is too small It can lead to voids in the part as well as uneven pressure causing a deformed part.
When working with angles and radius’s give relief cuts in your peel ply, release film, breather, and perforated layer. So cut all the corners and do small overlaps with the materials I just said at every corner. Then When you bag it add negative folds into the bagging material to allow stretch and movement in each corner. (Have a fold in the bagging material thats flopping away from the corner or radius) It will ensure no voids and a nice tight squeeze from your vacuum pump.
Make sure there is absolutely no leaks in your bagging material. This is why your first layup was dry and did not bond. You want zero air leakage.
When you are vacuum bagging optimal vacuum pressure is 26.0in or higher. If you cannot achieve that high pressure with your pump it’s ok it won’t hurt the part it just won’t be as compressed. So have no worry about over vacuuming your parts. In fact the more the better. You are only going to suck air from the layup not resin.
It is ok to be resin rich when bagging a part. Your breather will soak up the excess resin. The resin is actually squeezing out not sucking out. The only time resin will suck out is if there is an air leak. NO LEAKS.
I saw comments about you need a pressure pot for overflow resin. This is not necessary unless you are doing what’s called vacuum infusions. This is where you do the entire layup dry and then push resin through the part. If you decide to do that I’d love to offer advice for you there. But for now will stick to bagging.
Lastly do not be sparing with your Butyl tape. Id recommend don’t buy it online from a composite store if you can avoid it. It’s very common in the roofing section of a hardware store. Just ask for Butyl tape. It’s the same stuff just cheaper. You will go through a lot of Butyl tape bagging parts.
Lastly to avoid excess heat when doing a layup I wouldn’t recommend applying more then 6 layers of material at one time. This will assure you don’t have an exothermic reactions which will weaken your bond or light on fire.
I hope this helps you a little bit, if you have any questions feel free to ask. I will help where I can.
Reservoir. He needs a reservoir in larger layups so he doesn’t pull resin into the pump.
If you did a video on vacuum bagging fiberglass I would watch it.
Hey Buddy, you NEED to reach out to Matt from Duracell project. He’s a complete pro at vacuum bagging and making/installing parts into pre-existing boat structures!
Thats where I go for my weekly dose of vacuum bagging. Matt is also a super great guy, I'm sure he'd offer to help out.
Have loved watching your videos…. From number one up to the latest one in the workshop, at times binged watched while on nights at work, taking me into your world on the water…. Hope Jade has a safe trip to her family keep up the good work that you both do…. will look out for your next video take care regards Les from the UK 🇬🇧
Definitely check out the Duravel project lots of vacume bagging on that boat rebuild. For the hardener get a squeeze bottle that you can cut a small opening in to easier control the amount you put in. It will let you do anything from drops to steam depending how hard you squeeze it.
The Duracel project on youtube shows Matt doing lots of vacuum bagging construction of panels he is using to rebuild their boat.
Additionally youtube.com/@youngbarnacles is there in Barcelona Spain working on a Americans Cup project, He is a master class of carbon fibre construction having been on the build teams & crews of multiple cup racing yachts. He and his kids are also pretty good at rigging & sail trimming.
Matt did a video chat with Sailing Melody to help them with their vacuum bagging, maybe he would do the same for you?
Was about to say this too
What I came here for. The most recent ha great shots of the work shop
Matt and Mike Patey on his aviation channel would be gold mines of vacuum bagging knowledge.
You guys are awesome. Always nice to have a new episode.
Thanks…. Keep the good work up.
Thank you!
Thank you! ⛵
Love watching you guys! Can’t wait to see how it all turns out!
you guys have brought so much love into my life
Hi 👋, after first running your pump, doublecheck to make sure your oil level is correct, and check before every time, There are some silicon brushes on the market, which are supposed to be very good for doing layup as they are easier to clean, And as for cutting carbon fibre that are some scissors, you can get some discs. You can use on a angle grinder, type machine or even a Dremel., and I have seen somewhere where you can get jigsaw blades, and I’ve heard of device caught a wet saw, And I suggest you use a breathing mask whenever you’re cutting material and keep it on as there will be dust particles in the air, i’m not a professional, but I have done quite a lot of layup many years ago, making radio control hydros, which had to be very, very strong, I hope this can be some help to you, Completely changing the subject, not sure where you are located, but there is a storm coming across called Irene, It’s supposed to be very bad, I hope your boat is secure, I think they said Highwinds, very bad storms relating to rain and snow and sleet, stay safe keep up the great work, look forward to seeing your next stage in your project,
Hi Bret, I can appreciate the desire to fire up the vacuum pump and get your hands sticky to get a feel for your materials and it is evident you need to purchase a few more odds and ends. I would say you are days and days if not weeks away from actually glassing anything as you need to get the foam cores bonded together, trial fitted together, mounting points defined and finally shaped before any glass is wetted out. If you intend to run the carbon inner core tubes in the rear arches these will likely be the first things needing laminating before building the structure around them.
Hey. You should definitely get a resin trap in the vacuum line before the pump. This will prevent epoxy being sucked into the pump and destroying it.
They are simple devices, often just a pot with an airtight lid and two ports in the top. Epoxy from the part will be drawn up the pipe and into the trap, but it will just sit in there instead of continuing on to the pump.
2:40 Everything everywhere except the US will be metric, so my suggestion is that you learn how to multiply & divide by ten real quick if you plan on doing more projects & repairs 😁.
UA-cam unsubscribed me somehow…I subscribed and notifications on again and also for the new engineering channel!
Found your expedition engineering youtube channel, but noticed that there is also an adventure business with the same name “Expedition Engineering”.
Thankyou Mr . Evan’s
Your question re cement dust or concrete dust. Cement is basically a liquid slurry that bonds the aggregate together when hardened. The hardened (cured) stuff is concrete. thus, the dust comes from the concrete. Concerning viscosity, think of your car. You probably use multi-wt oil (ie 5-20 or 10-30). In the winter, do you want to start the car with a very thick sludge or a very thin slippery oil? The multi weight oil starts off at the first number and changes to the second number as it warms up. Thus, the lower number is the more liquid like.
This man fostering som questions "is it concrete dust or cement dust" he man i don't know i aint a builder
You should watch or speak to The Duracel project as they do so much fibre work, he so amazing at it.
This is almost exactly what I want to do to my Morgan 38, I’ll be watching!
Talk to Mads from Sail Life. I think he used this process (or a very similar one) to build the rudder for Athena. He has a few videos on it on his channel.
The big quilt roll hang it on the wall with the cable through. It was some type of smooth backing that you can pull it off and cut it.
Hi Bret, couple of helpful tips I hope, put your scales in a plastic bag that catches all of the spills, and it’s replaceable , a heat mat speed up the cure 4 hours at 50 degrees usually works for small items and you can do a couple in a day. Some syringes for the harder, and a silly point when pouring out a ‘thin’ liquid have the opening of the container furthest away from the pot this stops the ‘glug ’
An idea for the actual job, on the under side of the dinghy hardtop lay in some cable space for 2 forward red night lights, 2 white stern down lights and a manual search light…..just some thoughts looking forward to the rest.
Do you even know anything about fiberglass Brett? Lol I thought you just observed Jade from 40,000 ft. Lol..
I believe you will need a collection tank between the pump and the work piece. You do not want to get resin into the pump
I used a mason jar (canning jar) with 2 holes punched in the lid. butyl tape around the tubing. worked well and dirt simple and chea
This is pretty exciting stuff. Great video as always. Very cool filming (do we still call it that?) with the footsteps in slow-mo. You've some great techniques and could teach classes on that if you were bored. Hope everything is fine with Jades family, and she comes back no worse for wear. She's missed when she's gone. She makes a great vid into an Awesome one.
Go to waches Duracell racing sail boat to a family sail boat.thay do a lot of vacuum seals in all shapes . Carbon laminates
You should probably have a reservoir between the pump and the bag to gather excess resin before you suck it into the pump. See MJ's first attempt!! Also, you should practise actually infusing the resin from a supply container for when you do bigger pieces.
I was going to suggest the same thing. Since you beat me to it I'll just give your comment a thumbs up.
Funny I never thought of Jade as a monstrosity!
Watch all the Easy Composites tutorials re vacuum bagging methods.
Brett, Did you check the batting layer above the release film ? Guessing the resin was drawn into that matrix instead of intended fiberglass. For the folds in the vacuum film (red layer) pre test fit to prep & mark where you want them and place a tiny strip of butyl or adhesive putty there. Think 3D... If you've sealed it right there should not be a need to run vacuum pump 24 hours, You could get a timer/pressure monitoring switch to cycle power on off for really big full scale parts. If the vacuum was complete, the batting materials should have gotten compressed much more and avoided the wicking of resin away from intended test part. PS Just subscribed to new channel !
That happened because you had an air leak so the resin was able to be sucked out. If everything was sealed the pump should suck to a certain pressure and stop there. In this case pressure level 11.
On building and engineering in the metric system all measurements are usually in millimetres so 4x4 becomes 100x100 mm (dressed it’s 90x90 mm). (25.4 mm / inch). Vacuum at 1 atmosphere is 14.7 psi.
you need a resin catch on your vacuum line so you dont suck resin into your pump
You only need to vacuum it while it’s liquid. Not all night.
it's cement "dust". concrete is the finished product once you've mixed the cement, water and other aggregates.
Hi, take it from someone who started life with the imperial system and now uses a hybrid system of imperial and metric, metric is simple. As a base 10 system you should be used to working with it but you do have all those fingers and toes to count on, unless you are a much more clumsy diyer than I take you for 🤪🤪🤪.
I teach vacuum bagging. Looking forward to your progress!
There is a guy that builds planes from scratch from nothing. I'll think you be impressed to watch what he does. Channel name is "Mike Patey". Super smart and super friendly. Wants everyone to succeed no matter what they do. Good luck.
I assume you made a principle mistake.
- You had a structure beyond,
- between structure and glass was a lot of air.
With extracting the air you passed the resin out of the glass.
" Normal" infusion has a structure, glass over it but dry. Then this is evacuated for a long time. When there is nearly no air inside, the resin is introduced to that structure.
I like Raka marine epoxy medium, because of work time and the mix is 2 to 1. And it's cheaper than west system.
Cabosil for thickener and graphite mixed together with medium Raka marine epoxy I used as bottom paint on my ocean fishing boat made a bullet proof bottom paint that repelled growth. And was slick low drag.
Another thing Matt did on Duracell was a sealed solvent bucket to keep tools in so they were always clean and ready. Each project he starts with opening the bucket.
I like it
0:21 “ Monstrosity “. Jade (YES) he LOVES ❤️ you REGARDLESS. Just make sure you get to share Passionate Kisses underneath the “hard top” once all is finished. You two kids are : cute together!
Get a couple retractable blade razor knives and a box of blades. Its cheaper than carving up your fingers with a naked razor blade.
I am so impressed with you two. Anyone else would just go and buy the parts of the boat that you are building or just buy a new boat. What you are attempting is remarkable and I am so very impressed. You two are smart and creative and I know it’s going to turn out great.
Hi Bret and Jade, if you are doing your project in Barcelona, I'd like to help. I'm a US expat with a lot in common with you. I live here in Barcelona, am a former pilot, and sailor. Let me know by way of reply to this comment the best way to reach you or, if you feel comfortable with telling me which shared workshop you're using, and I'll get in touch or stop by. I'm available to lend a hand if you like or would love to at least stop by and say hi. I've watched all your videos to date and am a big fan. Ken.
Instead of frantically starting, list everything you’ll need and go get it. Watch your comments here and see what the experts are saying. Things you don’t know are important to know. Good luck Evans. 😊
SUCCESS! You learned from it, even though it didn't turn quite like you expected! 👍😎
Hi Brett! In my experience 5 psi is a good target vacuum level for laminating glass and carbon fiber. Have fun...
I don't think bagging will pull the resin out of your project, it pulls all air out of your project so the resin will infuse. If there is too much resin being used, too much for the diaper to absorb, you will get resin in your vac tube. I don't understand why your project came out dry, did you find where the resin went? Is it perhaps the wrong sort of resin, one that goes to vapor under vacuum? It was surf shop resin, it should have worked fine.
A couple of thoughts from experience..... I built a small boat some years ago, using the epoxy encapsulation stitch and glue procedure. I used System 3 epoxy, but they're likely all the same. My epoxy had no smell, either, but I could feel the "presence" in my nose. Toward the end of the project I started to develop a heaviness in my chest that went away when I went back out into clean air. I "believe" it was a mild sensitizing to the resin and started using a home made fresh air supplied mask toward the end. It worked.
Also, proper saturation of the resin into the cloth uses very little resin. When rollering it on, I squeegeed it out till the weave was clearly visible and felt when cured, using 6 oz. cloth. Then a light coat later to back it up and "just" fill the weave. You don't want to sand into the weave. A little experimenting showed me that cloth prepared that way was very strong and flexible. With more resin, it became brittle when cured. Check yours for strength as well as dryness. That's critical for optimum strength.
Contact Mike Patey. Guy built an airplane using carbon fiber and vacuumed most the parts.
Hey guys I'm from Barcelona, I work at BCN airport, I follow your channel from the beginning, my weekends are off so if you guys need a hand, I'm glad to help you, if your a near Barcelona. Regards
Watch The Duracell Project. He uses vacuum bagging a lot.
I can't wait to see a while channel of Brett breaking things. 🤪👍
Also, I believe it is called "Masonry Dust"
The blanket is called breather and allows the vacuum to pull the bag down overall. It is also used to bleed the resin out. The perforated film is available in different hole size and spacing for different bleeding needs.
No air leaks =success
Looking forward to your build videos. @Brett rockin the Altra shoes, comfortable!
I just almost had a heart attack 🤣 Not really of course. I clicked on a link of one of your videos and then on your channel I saw only 2 videos!!! Just 2! What happened to the rest of your channel!!!??? And then I realized I was on Expedition Engineering 😅 Well done on the new channel 👌
Water..WATER..WATER..WHERE DID WATER
COME FROM ON THECROSSING.?????THE LEAK???
Thats kind of an awkward shape to vacuum bag. The process is really best for simple flat shapes that the material can conform to prior to the vacuum being applied. Basically if you can't get the material to lie close to what your glassings the process won't do it for you.
youtube.com/@youngbarnacles?si=IVkq_mOPuauTmwWV has managed some pretty odd shapes bagging.
I had to re-sub when u mentioned people were being de-subbed by youtube. It happened to me also.
I know for a fact that I never unsubbed cause I been fascinated with this channel after seeing you guys featured on Jake and Nicole offgrid. So youtube is doing something to make you guys lose subs.
If you have 2 x 4, length is usually in measured in feet. Soo... In Europe 2 x 4 is usually in mm, so think 1" = 25mm, and then length is in meters. However sometimes you will use mm. Also get rid of your ratcheting power driver. Screws in Europe do not handle well with it. You can use it for large screws, but not small screws. They will crack ahead of time and don't use it anymore.
metric system - all you need to know is to multiply or divide by 10. To quickly convert in your head, remember that 1in is about 2.5cm and 10cm is about 4in. Weight-wise, 1lb is about 0.5 kg, or 500g.
Hey Brett,
Enjoy your channels.
Need any help with anything related to composite manufacturing I’ve been in the business for 40 plus years.
Keep the videos coming.
Donnie
But how can you not be good at metric measurements. If you are a pilot you have to be good at mathematics, and converting between imperial and metric is just remember a few simple numbers and then convert.
Don't multiply and divide by 2.54 in your head.
Try to remember easy numbers for example 4 inches is about 10 cm, and 3 meters is about 10 feet, easy numbers that don't have decimal points. Then whatever you are trying to convert first convert your measurements into those easy numbers and it will be a really easy conversion.
Safety first young man! Get rid of blades and use proper cutting tools..Sticky fingers have a habit of curling blades round fingers and allowing severe flowing of the red stuff.
Cement makes concrete. So sanding a finished sidewalk would be concrete dust. If you were making cement you would be rich!
In my vac bagging I'm happy if I get voids sucked out and the layup running flat with no distortion in the weave. I get worried if my vacuum gets to 2psi. I try to stop it there. At that point all your doing is making the part lighter, but not changing the structure's strength.
concrete if it has been poured cement if your going to pour it
What happens to the epoxy.Where did it go. It couldn't just vaporize . Is it in your vacuum hose ???
MJ Sailing are doing lots & lots of fiberglass work, they are building a boat which looks like foam sandwich with fiberglass both sides, thought this might be good for your Dodger roof
I've said this before but relationship goals...I look to you two as rolemodels.
Highly agree! They're what I call "twin souls". Next level up from "twin flames". Pretty much top of the list. 👍 🙂
Hi Brad
Why don't you convert dollars to meters
$1 = 1 meter
1 cent = centimeter
so $2 and 35 cents is 2 meters and 35 centimeters
Easy composites have a great youtube channel with good tutorials
Totally agree - really well made videos covering vacuum bagging and laminating challenging shapes and sizes!
Check out Xyla Foxlin she dose a lot of composet work great videos
Just saw you in a commercial for a knife during Sailing Nanjis show.
I've been watching The Duracell Project rebuild Duracell from an ocean racer to a cruiser his fist editions contained a lot of vacuum bagging plus so much more I hope this helps
Don't put your pleats at the corners, they're hard enough to seal without adding more complexity
Talk to Matt at the Duracell project. He does vacuum bagging all the time.
Excited to see your progress. Cover your scale with a piece of the vacuum bag material to keep it clean. Yes, definitely wear a mask around fiberglass. Definitely check out and maybe contact Matt at the Durrell Project.
I put mine in a plastic ziploc sandwich bag. Scale still looks new.
You're going to need I shut off valve to be able to hold the vacuum in without the machine running
Well today me and the wife got a Catalina 30 in about a year we will be heading out to see the world
🎉🎉🎉 congrats!!
That was my first sailboat!
Put your scale in a zip-lok bag dude
So happy to see you kids. Blessings,Carlos ✝️🙏❤️😊🇺🇸
I hope Brett is getting paid by Matsato knives for using him in their commercial that I see on UA-cam 4-5 times a day
Send us a link
@@ExpeditionEvans it’s not something that I have a link to. It’s a commercial that plays between or during videos. Next time I see it, I’ll try to get more details.
I am really surprised that you were rude to jade in the beginning of the video
it's more scary beccause it's going to be out where it can be SEEN....it's not something you can't DO ....stay positive, and GO FOR IT !....OnWard...........
You should make one of those stands that makes it easier to roll out your materials. Like home depot has for carpet
i hope you had a resin trap or you might have sucked all that resin into your pump
I'm disproportionately excited about your build videos. Also, maybe check out his heated vacuum table for some tips (probably towards the end) for setting up the layers: ua-cam.com/video/Q53pBOs0sWc/v-deo.html maybe not the same since you're using resin.
If you ever in greece, and in skiathos, hit me up
Metric much easier. Ones and zeros. 👍✌️
Cardboard will be your best new friend...
Always such a pleasure to watch your videos. I feel we all get more anxious about things the older we get which might explain why this feels more nervous to do than the structure maybe! Anyways thanks as always! 😊
Metres / Centimetres / Millimetres - just move the dot!
Shows were subscribed to both channels.
cement is the ingredient to concrete, if anyone was curious