Great video! Thanks for sharing you techniques and design. I've used PVC piping inside the handles of my mugs, heated and molded into the right shape, to add extra rigidity.
Interesting. In my experience wax adds more than enough rigidity to the handles, provided the tube is tight enough. It's a great technique to know of though!
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, Great Job, Excellent camera work, Suggestion, I found a local Bee keeper, the wax is excellent and a lot more reasonable than buying it like U did, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Hi Jim! What kind of leatherwork did you do? As you say, using raw wax is far more economical (and nicer to work with!) - when I made these in bulk it’s something I always did. Thanks for your comment, and I really appreciate your kind words.
@@julatoleather I do only bespoke leather work, l made a canteen and a mug, 4 different clients, I have NOTHING 4 SALE, I believe Bees wax is the best way 2 go, I go through 1 lb. A year in just my regular jobs, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
I appreciate the editing to keep the video short, & especially the rhythm in your pounding. Thanks for that. It would be good to see the butt stitching up close for a moment tho. Did you go through the thickness of the leather? Any leaks? How often would you wax it again? Many thanks!
@@AnonYmous-ii4tc Hey! When doing the butt-stitch on the handle and central seam, the the stitch only goes through the top grain of the leather. If you look at the inside of the tankard, you should not see any stitches. For Waxing… I have never had to re-wax a tankard. Thanks for the comment!
There are various variations on this pattern, mine is roughly based on this one: www.primway.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/tankard.pdf Unfortunately I don’t know the original author to give credit. Best of luck with your tankard!
Yeah, I guess the scraping tools, for the edges, whatever you were using to score the line evenly with the edge of the leather, and that fork looking thing for the needle holes.
Those tools are, respectively: skiving knife, edge groover and a stitching/pricking iron. If you’re making a quiver though, I recommend getting a hole punch and some leather lace, and just doing a basic whip stitch instead- you’ll probably get a better result in the end than first time stitching. This particular style, called a butt stitch, is only used here in order to get a waterproof seam- not required in your instance. Quivers are good fun though, enjoy!
Depending on how extreme the caving is, you might be able to pop it back the opposite way with gentle heat from a heat gun. If the leather fibres themselves have shrunk, I’m afraid I don’t know of any fix- the leather will in essence have ‘felted’ and shrunk. I occasionally lose a tankards this way due to the wax being too hot.
No liquids warmer than room temperature. The leather shrinks and hardens if in boiling water (see ‘Cuir Bouilli’). If you want to make a tankard style cup for hot drinks, use a Stainless Steel liner and build the cup around it, coozie style. Good question though!
Good question. I prefer this method as the leather is completely saturated with wax, and so can’t become soggy or mouldy. Brewer’s pitch is normally applied just as a lining, and can also be quite brittle. And pitch is frankly very difficult to get hold of, where’s anyone can find some lumps of beeswax. And it tastes nicer. And it looks better. Need I go on? ;)
@@julatoleather If you WANT brewer's pitch, go to Townsend & Son A half-pound bag is $13.50 US The one advantage of brewer's pitch is that it has a much higher melting temperature than beeswax. You can put a hot toddy into it without the lining melting into your drink, and it's far less susceptible to running when the temp hits 99 degrees
@@mikegrossberg8624 thanks, man. exactly a piece of info I needed. (making a costrel for a re-enactor; and they play outside in triple-degree temps on occasion!)
@@julatoleather thanks. that's the sort of thing that can offer a bit of peace of mind. I'm not looking to sell these, but, plan on giving them to specific people. (and, as they're people I like, I really don't want them to suffer any ill effects!) THANKS!
это аутентично. Он явно не занимается массовым производством, где прям все должно быть аккуратненько. Это тот результат, который вот примерно и имел место быть в то время.
Turn on Captions for some commentary on each process involved here.
Thanks for watching!
I was 3/4 the way when I saw this comment! Guess I'll have to watch it again! XD But with the commentary it's a lot more fun so thanks!
Are you still making leather goods? I would love to see more videos from you. This is a great little project.
Great video! Thanks for sharing you techniques and design. I've used PVC piping inside the handles of my mugs, heated and molded into the right shape, to add extra rigidity.
Interesting. In my experience wax adds more than enough rigidity to the handles, provided the tube is tight enough. It's a great technique to know of though!
Wow..First time, seeing this wax dipping technique...makes it look aged... 👌🏾👌🏾🙏🏽
need more of this channel
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, Great Job, Excellent camera work, Suggestion, I found a local Bee keeper, the wax is excellent and a lot more reasonable than buying it like U did, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Hi Jim! What kind of leatherwork did you do? As you say, using raw wax is far more economical (and nicer to work with!) - when I made these in bulk it’s something I always did. Thanks for your comment, and I really appreciate your kind words.
@@julatoleather I do only bespoke leather work, l made a canteen and a mug, 4 different clients, I have NOTHING 4 SALE, I believe Bees wax is the best way 2 go, I go through 1 lb. A year in just my regular jobs, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Wow man, immediate sub from now on. Love this idea so ill be looking forwards to trying this out on day haha.
wow i am very impress with this tankard too
Great video. Bought my wife a similar one at our local Renaissance Festival and was curious to how it was made.
Cool tankard, not so much of a tutorial but a watch him work. I was curious about how the stiching was done.
Thanks bud! I will maybe make a more in-depth tutorial if the demand is there.
I appreciate the editing to keep the video short, & especially the rhythm in your pounding. Thanks for that. It would be good to see the butt stitching up close for a moment tho. Did you go through the thickness of the leather?
Any leaks? How often would you wax it again?
Many thanks!
@@AnonYmous-ii4tc Hey! When doing the butt-stitch on the handle and central seam, the the stitch only goes through the top grain of the leather. If you look at the inside of the tankard, you should not see any stitches. For Waxing… I have never had to re-wax a tankard. Thanks for the comment!
Wow. What a thing of beauty.
Awesome project! If you wanted to dye and paint your vessel; would you wax before or after? Looking forward to trying
Thanks! Definitely dye/paint before waxing.
A work of art, I want I want!
Are you planning on making more videos like this one? This video was awesome and it'd be great seeing more from you!
On the list…
@@julatoleather I'm really glad to hear that.
That looks amazing! I would like to try to make one, where did you get your pattern?
There are various variations on this pattern, mine is roughly based on this one: www.primway.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/tankard.pdf
Unfortunately I don’t know the original author to give credit. Best of luck with your tankard!
Awsome work man! I need to make an arrow quiver in a similar manner. Can you give us the names of the tools you're using?
Sure- anything specifically?
Yeah, I guess the scraping tools, for the edges, whatever you were using to score the line evenly with the edge of the leather, and that fork looking thing for the needle holes.
Those tools are, respectively: skiving knife, edge groover and a stitching/pricking iron.
If you’re making a quiver though, I recommend getting a hole punch and some leather lace, and just doing a basic whip stitch instead- you’ll probably get a better result in the end than first time stitching. This particular style, called a butt stitch, is only used here in order to get a waterproof seam- not required in your instance.
Quivers are good fun though, enjoy!
Wow, that's great help, mate, thanks a lot! Keep up the fine work.
Awesome video! Is there anyway to repair a mug that has slightly caved in due to heat exposure?
Depending on how extreme the caving is, you might be able to pop it back the opposite way with gentle heat from a heat gun.
If the leather fibres themselves have shrunk, I’m afraid I don’t know of any fix- the leather will in essence have ‘felted’ and shrunk. I occasionally lose a tankards this way due to the wax being too hot.
@@julatoleather thanks for the info.
So amazing!
I am on 251 ;)
Nice work bro
Thank you! :)
Greate idea!
Hi. Hot water will damage this wax? İs it useable ? Leak after hot water?
No liquids warmer than room temperature. The leather shrinks and hardens if in boiling water (see ‘Cuir Bouilli’).
If you want to make a tankard style cup for hot drinks, use a Stainless Steel liner and build the cup around it, coozie style.
Good question though!
@@julatoleather thanks!
So good for anything cold?
More or less. Pure or highly concentrated spirits would cause damage, to both the Tankard and your insides ;)
Thank you. Nice video! Are you making more than one?
We’ll see. Quality over quantity! ;)
Thanks for the comment!
What is the leather weight used?
About 3-4mm or 8-10oz.
@@julatoleather thank you very much
Beeswax instead of brewer's pitch?
Just personal choice, or is there e reason?
Good question. I prefer this method as the leather is completely saturated with wax, and so can’t become soggy or mouldy. Brewer’s pitch is normally applied just as a lining, and can also be quite brittle. And pitch is frankly very difficult to get hold of, where’s anyone can find some lumps of beeswax. And it tastes nicer. And it looks better. Need I go on? ;)
@@julatoleather If you WANT brewer's pitch, go to Townsend & Son
A half-pound bag is $13.50 US
The one advantage of brewer's pitch is that it has a much higher melting temperature than beeswax. You can put a hot toddy into it without the lining melting into your drink, and it's far less susceptible to running when the temp hits 99 degrees
@@mikegrossberg8624 Interesting. Thanks for the information!
@@mikegrossberg8624 thanks, man. exactly a piece of info I needed. (making a costrel for a re-enactor; and they play outside in triple-degree temps on occasion!)
@@dhl1263 BTW, Townsends has a video on how to use brewer's pitch. Check it out on UA-cam, or go to their website
so, what's the best way to clean this? I'd rather not give anyone hard-to-pronounce illnesses because they drank from a leather tankard I made... :-)
Just rinsing, or mild soap and water-alcohol should also act as somewhat of a disinfectant.
When I sell these, I do include a disclaimer though.
@@julatoleather thanks. that's the sort of thing that can offer a bit of peace of mind. I'm not looking to sell these, but, plan on giving them to specific people. (and, as they're people I like, I really don't want them to suffer any ill effects!) THANKS!
Очень кривые швы. Ужас.
это аутентично. Он явно не занимается массовым производством, где прям все должно быть аккуратненько. Это тот результат, который вот примерно и имел место быть в то время.
Get a life. Don't just bitch. He's done better than I could. Inspired me to have a go too