The Importance of Automotive Ground: Tech Talk by SRDmotorsports
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- One of the most often overlooked aspect of our cars especially when performance is related or involved, as cars age and corrode the resistance increases and further accentuates the lack of ground
We discuss the sensors that rely on proper grounding and even like the fuel injectors, why sometimes increased duty cycle does not mean you need more injectors but a wiring system that has improper grounding
this can and will directly affect ecu function and even wideband sensor life span.
In this video we share and talk about how we can possibly get the best value for our bucks spent on aftermarket parts by getting its full use by way of a proper grounding system as we talk about sensors that are often affected
It is why brand such as AEM, Hondata, Haltech and even Motec talks about the importance of proper ground especially in the motorsports application
Do check out our shop page for more tech tid bits at
/ srdms
#Ground kit
#Hondata
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#hondata s300
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![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
thanks SRDMotorsports TV for the detailed setup of grounding 😊
Yes remember with your car, when everyone claimed it needed a retune… we could have made more by saying “yes let’s tune”
But to be certain and for no “short cut” we checked all the details and we’ll the idle went back to normal when everything was going well
Not needing a tune
But a lot of times if the wiring is not in good condition running a proper ground kit may need a retune but definitely means way better performance
One thing I've noticed on Hondas is that the bolts used on the ground points are usually a different type of 10mm bolt. The ground bolt doesn't have the normal "I0" marking, and the threads are usually a self-tapping type which I believe is to clear out any paint in the hole to make a good electrical connection to the chassis. I usually run an M6 tap through the holes to clear out any surface rust.
oh yes whoa! good observation there!!! and agree its prolly honda's reason as even T1 did say back in HT that even painting the alternator bracket? hinders or lessens "ground" quality...
its why even the factory ground spots i always make sure we send the base of the bold or nut to ensure chassis contact is good
Great point, I noticed that too! I never understood why Honda (and others) try to ground through the paint though, I suppose it's just faster/easier to use a self tapping style bolt than keep the paint off the ground points and/or grind the paint off the ground points. Grounding through the bolt/threads works well enough before things rust, but I've seen situations where the connection isn't good. I always sand the paint off under the ground points to shiny metal, sand the ring terminals, clean the bolt and its threads, and coat the bare sheet metal, bolt threads, and both sides of the ring terminal with copper anti seize before assembly to prevent corrosion over time, which I believe is best practice. The ring terminal being in direct contact with bare metal makes the electrical conductivity of the bolt and its threads mostly irrelevant.
Another great video. Very underrated mod/fix.
You nailed it! Perfect term… “underrated” indeed!
I remember all them years ago the conversation we had about this.
OMG the uncle Dave! The one n only! And yes indeed I remember especially the email talk days and il always be thankful for those days!
Another great content very informative video nice ground plug
Yes sir!
Great info. Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome brother! Glad it’s good and will work on giving more info and thought on future contents ftw
Great info 👍🏾!
Yes sir let’s us do our thang! And I know you got it!
I've got a video Idea that is probably a simple topic to discuss. for those who just need a little more form a stock vehicle maybe a header and better plug wires or grounding but how about the many OBDII plug in tuners? Do any of them work?
Oh those are great ideas… especially the obdII plug in tuning options… il have to look into that but definitely something good here!
Is it better to ground to chassis, or ground to batt neg terminal? Or it really depends on the location of the ground?
by design the chassis is grounded from or withthe battery negative, but thru time corrosion on steel and even repaint changes the resistance sometimes to a point that chassis ground is so much "less" than battery negative...
and even the ecu ideally needs the negatir that matches the positive ..of the battery
it is why one of te ground wires i did goes to the chassis/tranny to help and the rest of the sensors rely on that but with the gounding kit it helps it equalize to the same amount/rate as the battery positive so it matches better
@@SRDmotorsports thank you, newer Hondas got this ELD thingy, it prevents the voltage from exceeding 14 bolts. So if we are getting 13.5 to 13.9v on idle and cruising, we should be good right?
@@antonc108 yes 13.5-13.9 is good…anything over 14.4v it stresses our ecu and the sensors like iacv and map etc etc… albeit the lowest I’d consider “okay” is probably 13.4ish
JUST DID this setup... Can never over kill the grounding on these Hondas lol
QUESTION: 99 EJ6 (EK) hatchback
IF Battery is in the trunk, where is it the best location to bolt the battery negative to?
Thank you
great stuff! Actually since I do plan to relocate mine after the grounding kit… I been contemplating as before I’d ground it to the body at the trunk… but I’m thinking maybe even the negative can be relocated and have a positive and negative pole by the firewall or near the oem location
Cuz I figure the body at the rear may be too far
@@SRDmotorsports actually have positive and negative poles relocated in to the engine bay.
Works AWESOM to keep battery on trickle when car is stored for winter.
What I did for the grounds off the alternator, block, trans etc., is ran them all back to the subframe.
@@ALLRealtySolutions oh that subframe work is a good thing real real good ftw!
The strut mount nuts seem to work very well as long as you sand or grind the surface under the nut to shiny metal totally free of paint and rust before making the connection. That's what I did on my ES1 and I measured that the voltage drop from the negative battery terminal to the engine block whine cranking is only about 0.1 volts using the chassis as a ground, which is significantly less than the ~0.3 volt loss through the 2 gauge copper positive cable.
I made my own cables @BruceWayne-sz3th
Thank you for this video, I need this. BTW, what is the size of wire? Is it a type 8 gauge?
Yes AWG8 guage 8 but beware a lot of guage8 wires the core is not as thick as guage8
And a lot of times the copper wire when washed with carb cleaner the copper paint washes off lol so the resistance on that is bad
Plus even our hands have acid that touching it will kick start future corrosion
And also terminals are crucial overkill soldering is bad
It’s why we use a nytril rubber gloves when working on stuff like this
@@SRDmotorsports Thank you so much for these info. More power to your channel.
@@raymundmatias51 thanks
Nice bro,worth the whp gain if then how much,planning for my ek aswell
Hard to tell on the whp gain but it definitely helps the responsiveness and efficiency
I love your videos. What's your web page. I'm not on FB.
Sadly no website yet but I’m actually looking to do that, mainly so I can keep all the “numbers”
“Measurements” and manuals in. One place for all the videos I can just use that or direct viewers to where to get notes from
IG isn’t yet fully finished but it’s @ralfsrdms
on point 👍
I remember hcp days first experience was a Jdm grounding wire kit and it helped alot
Then clyde “ef92b” in hcp owner of clywire did explain all I know now and so I improved old existing on… that prolly helped the Ph15 build I did in hcp on dyno and at the track
True
Old forums and performance car magazines where the source of information back then
@@blue3549 yeah and I actually miss those like when Honda Tuning actually had and did their own project so regardless of results the “sharing” aspect was great and that’s what molded me to how I treat stuff
Ah right, those project cars where they showcase the new performance products (usually bolt ons) available in the market
They would also post the projected HP and torque increase among different brands of air filters, header and mufflers ☺️
@@blue3549 yeah it was fun to learn for sure
Hi sorry for the question I'm really looking for someone to help me, I've been having surging issues in my engine where I can see voltage drops in a few sensors including my electric wastegate for the turbo, could this be the cause of my problems??, it seems as if I get electricity disconnected intermittently while driving. Do these negative cables wear out over time??I own a 2011 Kia optima 2.0 turbo. If anyone can help really appreciate it thanks.
Oh interesting issue… and yes the negative cables do wear out over time mostly where it’s bolted to so check on those one by one
@@SRDmotorsports Thank you for your response I will order new ground cable and see if it helps. Very good info video also thanks again for your response and info video's you post here on UA-cam.
oh wow thank you and you’re welcome…
Also check even the negative cable on the battery to chassis/fuse box the bolt there might be loose or corroded etc giving that intermittent issue
How are you guys doing the ground kit for cars with relocated battery in the trunk?
All you would need is terminal / pole and run a heavier guage awg2 or awg4 ideally
have a dedicated positive and negative pole routed from battery to the engine bay…
serves as the pole where u can easily use for the timing light ftw!
@@SRDmotorsports Ah ok. Thank you! Do you guys always use full size/capacity batteries? Any experience with different types? Lightweight AGM or maybe even Lithium? Do they affect perfermance at all?
@@kmvguy no performance effect i mean no downside
only downside here is they hella expensive and most of the time its imported from the US :( so super exp
Are you, by any chance, still selling your grounding kit?
I do actually by order for local / ph peeps mainly cuz shipping sometimes get too expensive but a few Florida peeps have ordered it
boss saan naka ground yung alternator sa alternator mismo thru fuse box or sa bracket? thankyou boss
Alternator mismo or bracket
😎👈🎯
Yes sir the simple things :)
Boss saan ka nakabili ng gamit mo dyan na awg8 wire?
Deeco but they call it different forgot what it was
Copy boss.. thank you..
No prob
been trying to do this for ages..now theres no reason not to do it.
Yep!! Send in a head for work = you get this as freebie aahahaha
gud po... how much po?
Says in the video. 2k
@@SRDmotorsports tenkyuuu...
@@pogtv841 np sir
@@SRDmotorsports ilang inches po ung wire papunta sa alternator bracket? ty po...
@@pogtv841 I measured it Mano Mano by removing the manifold
But a kit I’m looking at is 500 😢
Oh that’s fine just double check what I’ve said in the video if it covers most of the spots talked about then it’s fine but also research on the AWG8 wire guage and check mm measurement
If it’s same or close then that’s a steal get it! Cuz it could also be way thinner hence lifespan and durability together with effectiveness goes south
@@SRDmotorsports along with the entire harness kit it’s 2k lol 😂. But it’ll be a nice tucked engine bay thanks for the info and yes the gauge is very important to me as the old ones I had was oem and very small.
@@topshelf223 yep just like the video I made about ClyWire… good is good but not just “aesthetically” good
Like believe it or not , ClyWire harness has zero solders everything is cleanly crimped and secure so no room for moisture or condensation anywhere “inside”
That is why a “year” later most of those cars suddenly need rechecking of wiring etc etc
And
“Length” variation does change resistance too