If you enjoyed this video, please "Like" and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 😀TIMESTAMPS here: 0:00 Year Round Hoop House Benefits 1:52 New Raised Bed Hoop House Design 2:58 Materials List 3:03 How To Cut EMT Conduit 4:13 Hoop House Frame Installation 10:43 Hoop House Cover Installation 12:36 How To Use A Hoop House Year Round 14:38 Adventures With Dale
Using a heat gun to help bend the pipes the way you want them will make it easier. While a hair dryer isn't as effective, it will still help the pipes to bend somewhat.
I’m impressed with not only the design but with your instructions- you talked plainly and slow enough for us old folks to understand the instructions and I thank you for that- gonna give this little hoop house a try - I’m a 76 old lady fro deep east Texas and I love new ideas - thanks again God bless
If you have a heat gun (or any heat source), you can warm the pvc and it will freely bend into the shape you want. Then when it cools it will hold the shape perfectly. This way you won't keep flexing the pipe when you want to remove or put it back on. Less breakage.
Can you please suggest the right paint? I'd like very much to 'restore' some pvc lawn chairs, chaise lounge, but don't want peeling paint to be he new look! I asked at the hardware store, but they had no idea.
Thanks for sharing your techniques. A few tips that will increase the overall life of any wood raised bed frame. Marine caulking and kreg jig joints. The weak point in any lumber bed frame, regardless of the type of wood, are the screw holes and joints. I've been building raised beds primarily with cedar for over 30 years. After the first set started loosening up and deteriorating at the fastening points I experimented with my next build. The kreg jig allows you to sink the screws at an angle and avoid the screws running with the end grain. Marine caulk at every screw hole seals them up. A Marine caulk with adhesive further strengthens each screw hole and joint. My previous beds would always eventually fail at the corners and require replacement or bracing. With these upgrades the corners no longer fail before the wood eventually deteriorates. I like the 3M fast cure products with the adhesive. Some may think it's over kill but for an additional few bucks per bed it's a wise investment. My oldest cedar beds with these upgrades are close to twenty years old. The bottoms have deteriorated some but the joints are strong. I moved several of these beds last spring and was surprised how well they have held up.
That’s great info, TY! Is it better to have the wood beds sitting on gravel or ground for longevity or it doesn’t matter since it’s being filled with soil? Again, Ty for all your valuable experienced recommendations.
In my experience the bottom third of a bed built with lumber deteriorates from the inside that faces the soil. Not a noticeable difference between the bottom and a few inches above it. I assume it's because this section, the bottom third, remains the dampest section. One thing that I started doing a while back to help alleviate the deterioration. I take a hoe and mound the soil away from the outer edge of the interior so it doesent spend the off season as damp as it would if left resting on the bed.
This is the first year I have used cold frames in the garden and it is working really well. Tomorrow is christmas and I will be able to pick a nice mixed salad for our meal. I am using old storm windows to cover my raised beds (after shovelling out six inches of soil to give growing space for the plants) and that works well as other growers have shown. But by far the best cold frame I made is from an old 2 by 4 foot skylight I saw on the side of the road for free. I just built walls out of deckboard and set the skylight on top. The glass is bubble shaped and two panes thick so it sheds snow and rain and gives lots of room for the salad greens to grow as well as a very good insulation value. If you bought a cold frame of this quality it would cost a fortune, but you can make your own very cheaply from an old skylight for next to nothing.
Growing plants under protection in winter is a revelation. However, the same thing is true all year round. This is why I like a versatile frame where you can change the type of cover with the seasons. If you are enjoying the results of cold protection, changing out the cover for insect netting in spring and shade cloth in the summer produces similar incredible results. I change covers like I change shirts based on the weather. Having a variety of covers makes life easier year round.
So, you dug a 2x4 foot space out at 6 inches deep, lined the edges with 5-6 inch wide boards...and put the skylight over that...I wonder how it could be hinged ? All in all, great idea! Thank you..
You can, but you need to be careful to cut the excess and aim them down inside the bed or they will tear the fabric. The sharp edges are an issue, so you have to be careful if you use them.
GREAT video! Thx for showing the error/blooper. I appreciate seeing others have similar experiences that I have and knowing how to recover. Thank you!❤
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU! This Is what I have been searching for in south Louisiana, a way to control summer heat, bugs and frost. With the extra benefit of inexpensive! 👍👍
It works really well. I highly recommend the 40% shade cloth Memorial Day to Labor Day. It is absolutely incredible. The stuff I use is linked in the video description.
Love this! 2 sisters (60's) say thank you! We can do this! You are such a great instructor and the list is crazy helpful. We are in JAX setting up our raised beds. Tell Dale we said "Hi" :)
We have a similar design but use rebar stakes next to the bed and just slip the pipe over the top of the rebar. Love how you put the center pipe on, definitely adding that ours this next season!
You can do that, but I don't consider that to be removable. You have to keep the hoops on at all times, because the rebar sticking out of the ground is a major safety hazard. I use that method for my shade tunnel out in my main yard to secure the PVC, but it's elevated so that cannot happen.
I love the PVC snap. It represents everything that happens in my life. Can't just be done efficiently... it has to take at a minimum of two additional steps.
Thank you for always sharing these fantastic ways to improve our gardens. I love your channel, and as usual, I love hearing the old Jersey accent, since I am originally from there as well. I grew up, in New Jersey right outside of Philly. Keep those videos coming to help the rest of us!
Good info! I did PVC hoops 7-8 years ago, but I did 4 hoops for a 8 foot bed and they are still going strong. I am in NJ. However, I don't remove them, so maybe that's why they lasted. TIP; bend PVC when warm out.
I've looked at doing something similar for mine. The EMT sleeves is a really good idea. I was planning to use the gray electrical PVC pipe since it's UV resistant (also have Carolina sun!). Instead of 3/4"x1/2" tees and drilling and screwing them into the pipe, and possible breaking it at the stress points, I plan to use 1/2" tees glued in the middle of the end hoops, and a 1/2" X glued in the middle of the middle hoop, and glue the cross brace pipe into those. I think this will provide a more robust support. The only issue may be getting the same bending radius of the hoop, but will see.
If you dremel out the pipe stops the T will slide all the way on the pipe without cutting the pipe in the center creating a weak point. If you don’t own a dremel or die grinder you can use a coarse rasp/ round file.
I personally think cutting the PVC pipes is not a good idea. I think they’re more likely to fail at the stress points if you cut them and glue them rather than just drill a small hole and secure a slip coupling over them. I haven’t been able to find a better cheap solution than what I’m doing in this video.
I have hoops for Christmas lights over my drive. I cut the PVC for cross brace supports and they barely lasted the season. Bending causes enough stress but the cuts cause more weak points where the Tee's are glued or not
I am doing hoops on my raised beds as well and It has been down to the 20s so I clipped my frost blanket and my 6 mil greenhouse plastic together with stainless clamps and remove when it’s above freezing during the day I grab them and flip them off of the hoops until sunset then flip them back over hoops for night temps. I’m harvesting Romaine, spinach, Arugula, Pak Choi and Red express cabbage mustards Chard beets carrots onions😅 ridiculously easy.
I like this design but I would have to adapt it to fit my situation since my beds are metal. I would just pound the EMT conduit into the ground next to the bed and place the hope tubes into it.
I would actually recommend you pound the EMT into the ground inside the raised bed right up against the edges. The reason why is the tension of the PVC hoops will be pushing "outward." If you place the EMT outside of the bed, it'll slowly push them away from the beds overtime. By placing the EMT up against the inside wall, the wall of the bed itself will stop that and actually make for a tighter install.
I like the EMT bracket concept. I have similar design and will probably update if I have to redo them at any time. I have the ends closed on my beds and have them covered with mesh for bugs. 3 times the wind collapsed the frames so I replaced the top rail with 1/2" emt and put T post at each end to restrict end movement. No problem since.
For these hoops, the covers should be removed when winds exceed 25-30mph sustained. This is why I like the PVC clips. Covers can be taken off in, literally, 30 seconds. It's not a big deal, so it's worth removing the covers in bad weather.
I live in Oklahoma where we can get some pretty impressive hail. I use cattle/hog panels made of wire - relatively inexpensive, and plan to put plastic and shade cloth over them. My hope is that the wire pattern will help prevent hail damage to both the garden and the material I’m using to cover it.
I live in Kansas and yes we get alot of the same storms. I am going to use this method or something so my plants don't get murdered after I get to planting next month.
Good idea, another way would be to get some rebar , cut at 18-24 inches each and pound in the ground. Then just insert the pvc in the rebar on each side of your beds . No fiddling with screws and conduit fasteners, plus alot cheaper
I have used this method, but I don't have any way to cut rebar. So I bought the small 2 ft rebars and 4 ft rebars. They cost almost as much as the 10 ft rebar. I was sad because i needed 6 of them !
Before installing the plastic pipe, spray it with a good paint a couple times to protect it from the sun. I've done it and it makes the pipe last twice as long. Thanks Bud.
We also did this in our school garden. Mostly for aesthetic purposes when agribon was removed but the paint definitely extends the life of the PVC. We painted ours green.
I enjoy your videos SO MUCH! You’re a great instructor showing what can happen (by accident) when pvc pipes get dried out. You helped me solve my problem! Thank you!
Thanks to you and previous videos on hoop covers, we were able to extend our harvest for our bush beans for the last 2 seasons. Looking forward. That's really cute santa PJ's for Dale. Yummy breakfast for Dale too. Strange how we were always told by the vets not to give our pets people food. It's much healthier than kibbles and bits I think. Lucky and happy.... Dale.
Outstanding! I love hearing you're growing longer! I bet you can start them a little earlier, too! Dale has a more extensive (and expensive) wardrobe than I do. I have old jeans, t-shirts and sweatshirts and he has a closet full of designer fashion 😂 That is absolutely false about food, and it's terrible what people have been taught. You have to be mindful of what you're cooking, because a lot of healthy things for humans are toxic to dogs (grapes/raisins, onions, garlic, etc.), they can't process fats as well as humans can and need leaner meats, and vegetables need to be boiled until soft to deactivate the harmful natural chemicals in plants and help their digestion. But the idea of "dog food" is absurd. If there isn't a such thing as "human food," there is no such thing as "dog food." Imagine if a human being was fed nothing but Cheerios for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day for 10 years. A human would go insane after about 4 days of that, yet that's what we do to our pets and then wonder why they develop allergies, nutrient deficiencies, weird diseases and become picky eaters. Pets need varied diets full of fresh food just like people do for health. We have gotten really good at cooking for Dale. Every week we rotate a different protein. We buy frozen beef liver and put liver in his food every 3rd meal. We buy him jasmine rice as his food base, because it doesn't have any nasty "enriched" fake vitamins and harmful proteins like brown rice and whole grains have, we give him greens out of the garden that we stew, and he takes daily vitamins. He's doing absolutely fantastic. He has no allergies, no itching, his fur is beautiful, he runs around like a lunatic puppy still even though he's roughly 5 years old, and he just loves his meals. He goes crazy for them. It's working well.
@@TheMillennialGardener can you please do a few detailed videos on cooking for Dale? I'd like to start cooking for my Lab! And the info on the vitamins and where he got his PJ's too! Thanks! Woof! 🥰🐶🐾
Thanks, it's good to see the surprises - like the plumbing pvc breaking - that would happen to me!!😅 Your experiential Insights are very Informative...
This is awesome! I'm struggling with a temporary mini hoop design for my apartment balcony to protect my greens from frost during our Montreal winters. to cover both ends, I imagine I could simply tuck the plastic under the frame, this would keep it removable and allow easy access from one side as needed.
We did a similiar design, however I used 10,' pvc on each side to roll up down the 4 mil plastic. I open them on east side in am, and than westside in pm depending on the weather. We r zone 4b. In heat of summer i leave both rolled up sides on top for shade in heat of day or preference of vegie. When the rolled down and protecting i use bricks to hold them down. When up i use a variety of clips to secure to center pvc and to keep from unrolling. The big greens clips go over the white ones and protect them well. I made end covers that easily attach when needed.
I am repurposing an old portable aluminum car port that lost its plastic covering "they never last more than a year where I live) into a greenhouse, shade room, bug, bird protection room. How did you attach the 10ft PVC to the plastic so you can roll it up when needed? That is my last hurdle in building this thing. Thank you for that great idea!!!!!
your channel is exactly why i love engineers so much! my partner is an engineer and i just really admire and appreciate how your minds work. 😊 thank you!
Try a 1/2" pvc cross at the center and 1/2 tees on end... glue it all. Allow to set up overnight before trying to bend to fit your emt conduit sleeves. This is how I do my beds. Try it... you'll like it! 👍
If you use electrical pvc conduit it is uv stabilized and will last longer than the white plumbing pipe. Also pipe and conduit come in differing wall thicknesses you'll want schedual 40 for these.
I think the reason that pvc pipe broke is not so much the UV from the sun . I think the fact that it had two screws dead center was the contributing factor. So if/when you decide to relocate them, take the screws out first, don't try to bend them with the screws in place.
Great vid. I appreciate you and your excellent instruction. I spray paint my pvc pipe and I've got pieces that are 10 years old. I have a really hard time dripping into pvc, you make it look so easy.
I can tell you enjoy your garden. Sure is nice not to have to mow grasses in it. Thank you for all the information and I appreciate it. I learned a lot from you.❤
Hi Anthony, It may be the holes in the pipe that made it break. 😊 Great hoophouse information 😊 Thank you Brother ❤ GOD BLESS YALL and Have a very Merry Christmas ❤😊
I live on the Texas Gulf Coast and we BAKE all summer long. In the spring I am installing the T-post/electrical conduit design you showed earlier this year as the cloth support for my beds. I have 4 metal raised beds, each 4' x 4' and 18" tall. Your videos are full of great ideas!
It will seriously change your garden. You'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner. If you drape that shade cloth up above, it will make such an enormous difference.
This is a great idea for ease of changing the hoops, but it still seems very cumbersome to unsnap all the clips for opening and closing and changing fabrics. What do you suggest for this?
We had leftover 3/4" irrigation tubing that we connected to garden fencing to make our pole bean trellis. It's lasted 5 gears & is super cheap. We will try using it for fhe hoop house & see how it works
I am recycling my black PVC irrigation tubing and the brown PVC with emitters to make covers for my big tubs to protect my plants. I really like using the short conduit sections so it is easy to remove the covers when necessary. Someone also said they used rebar and just slipped the PVC over them. We can use what we have on hand!
Thanks as always for the ideas! I was thinking of driving 2 ft rebar into the ground the standing the pvc pipe over it to hold up but I like the idea of the emt pipe now 🤣🤣🤷♂️
You can do that, but then the hoops will not be removable. Having rebar sticking out is a huge hazard and people could trip and be impaled on them, so if you choose to use rebar, you cannot remove the hoops, ever, except for eventual replacement from sun damage.
It’s a bit more work, but if you use a3-way angle connector it puts less bend on the pipes and it make last longer given the lower level of bend stress. For the middle, spend the money and get a 4 way cross.
I'll second your suggestion. Any hole drilled in conduit becomes the weakest point. Further stress is placed on it by bending and then the load placed on it. The 4 way fitting with adhesive will actually make that the strongest point on that frame. Time is money.
Just thought I'd share... If you use greenhouse UV film, you'll want to try the metal electrical conduit because the plastic on plastic will degrade the greenhouse film. We use the 1/2" metal conduit and made a jig to bend it to fit our beds. Super sturdy for windy locations! Cheers!
I can’t use greenhouse film here. It gets too hot during the day. It was such a pain having to constantly vent it. It would be 110° in there by 10AM in January 😂 I can’t recommend greenhouse film unless you’re in a very cold place or you have a way to vent it easily. I use row covers only now.
@jeffreylyons1531 yes, just measure the width of the bed for your radius. I mounted my jig on another board and added a block on one side to hold the pipe in place. Makes it easier to bend. I also use shock cord (bungee) across the top of the plastic or netting, etc. Attach carabiner with a hose clamp to the pipe near ground level and the plastic/ netting easily slides up and down for access/ventilation. Works great!
Good video as always! I wanted to tell you that I have spray painted my pvc to help with UV exposure breakdown. Happy Holidays from my homestead in northwest Florida.
I'm guessing that probably works well. Any paint layer is going to extend the life of materials. I bet one of those plastic sprays like Plasti-Dip would work great, too.
@@TheMillennialGardener I enjoy seeing the happy colors in the garden. I also spray paint my metal T-posts many different colors such as aqua, pink, purple, yellow, and so on...
Liking this design and would want to use it for my container fig trees (pretty much in the 15-gallon containers you have linked in your storefront) I would create the frame with pressure treated wood, but not fill it in with soil. Do you think there would be enough height for the container trees or should I consider different dimensions? You mentioned using this solution for all your outside plantings, did this include your container figs? Many thanks for sharing your ideas.
If you build a 4'x10' raised bed like I do, that's going to give you anywhere from 40-50 inches of clearance depending on where you place the trees. Obviously, trees in the center of the bed will have more clearance than trees along the edges. If you were to substantially prune the trees before storage, it may be possible, but I don't know how many trees you have. I can tell you once the figs start leafing out and putting on growth, they'll be growing out of the bed quickly.
Thanks, I see what you mean- placing them in the center would probably allow 3-4 containers per unit and I have about 12 trees (not a good use of space)- maybe I just forget the raised beds for the trees, lay down the black tarp and consider more of a slant or flat top design on standing poles instead of the hoop approach.
Amazing video! Being in Phoenix, the EMT conduit will be a game changer for it's UV protection with our sun. (The UV seems harsher here, but is that really true? I don't know - but we get a lot of really hot sun). In the past I have had to spray paint the pipes with uv protection, but now I won't have to do that messy job. The price for the pipes may end up the same as the cheaper pipes + UV Resistant spray paint. Dale looks cool in his Santa jammies. LOL
Yes, your UV is particularly bad for three reasons: lack of clouds in the sky, your higher elevation (thinner atmosphere means more UV penetration), and low humidity (water vapor in the air actually reflects UV). Phoenix is the perfect storm for UV damage. Making hoops out of EMT would last a lot longer, but you need to weigh the cost of the EMT, the time it takes to bend them, the tools you'll need to buy (like a pipe bender) and the fact you'll probably ruin numerous lengths of pipe trying to get it right. For me, the raised beds themselves are only going to last 10-12 years or so, so it doesn't make sense to me to spend all that time and money on metal pipes when it's just easier to replace the PVC. I would, in your position, do something like buy PVC electrical conduit and spray it with something like Plasti-Dip paint to put another layer of UV protection and just bite the bullet and replace them in 3-5 years when they eventually fail. I wouldn't mess with EMT unless I was building a real high tunnel designed to last a lifetime. But, if you only have a couple beds to cover, maybe it is worth your time to do so. If you know an electrician with a pipe bender, I'd invite them over for a few drinks 😀
To do something a little different, if you want a taller hoop structure that is outside of the bed so that growing plants don't push into it, you can modify the mounting/bottom section of this, and the bendable tubing, whatever you use will fit over metal conduit. Use 1/2" metal rod, 3 ft., 1/2" metal conduit (1/2" interior) that will slide over the metal rods, and then whatever tubing you want that will fit over the metal conduit. With metal rods, sharpen one side into a point, then pound 1/2 way into the ground. Slide conduit over the rod and then put the tubing on the conduit. You can make a pretty large hoop structure this way. If you get bad storms you probably need to use line to anchor the ends so the structure won't sway bad and forth.
I love your direct, practical, creative efficiency strategies,tips & information. Thank you for your great videos! Ps what type of cabbage are you growing in this vid?
Sort of, but not really. You can't really rotate crops with a garden as small as mine if you're growing year round. I don't have enough beds to do that effectively. But a garden this small is polyculture by definition, so it's not that big of a deal.
What about tomato beds? Some tomatos grow 6 ft tall. Also wondered about making the electrical tube longer and sticking half of it unground so you dont need to screw holders to bed wood? Would that work?
You can grow determinate tomatoes in beds like this. If you want to grow indeterminates, you need a solution like my shade tunnel: ua-cam.com/video/l0gt7MhRrVQ/v-deo.htmlsi=9WCycaZxTag07akm
My dad was a math major in college, basically a math genius, to him, he did the math in his head, and it all made sense, my sister inherited that mind, she has a Masters in Architecture.. I inherited his work ethic.. but not his head for equations.. I see, you put so much work into teaching us.. I've always had a garden, but at 65, I really don't want to weed a garden, so i decided, container figs.. i live in the country, and so many of us bought our property and there's a wild fig tgat has been there for decades, so we exchange plants at the various farmers markets, but, after following you.. they all seem to be like the same??? If that makes sense?? We all have these unknown varieties, but they ALL seem to be a small to medium Celeste?? I have a fenced in area, that I used to have a garden in.. THE DEER EAT EVERYTHING NOT FENCED IN!! So I just bought my weed barrier from your Amazon, I got the one that looks like yours anyway.. Im excited for the spring, now I have 12 container figs, and I'm so excited for spring.. thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us, it's priceless, Merry Christmas Buddy ..
Regions of the US tend to have shared the same fig. Most of the original figs were brought over by Italians when they emigrated here 100-150 years ago. They brought cuttings from their trees in their backyard, but because most wild figs require pollination from the fig wasp which is not endemic to the United States, they found only certain figs with a genetic mutation for persistence would grow here. The lucky Italians that unknowingly brought over parthenocarpic varieties sometimes shared their good luck with others, so a handful of varieties just naturally spread throughout communities. Those varieties still dominate today. If you want to find other varieties, you have to search for them like I do. Figbid is a great place to search for varieties. Sounds like you have a good garden growing on! I recommend fencing in everything you can. One deer can destroy an entire year's work overnight. I grew up in the woods and remember their destruction well...
I would use 1/2" tees and glue them with pvc solvent glue. it will weld the joints together and make it stronger. your method of screwing them will weaken the pipe and crack it over time. But I like the general idea,
I do not want to cut the pipes. That will be the greatest weakness in the system, and it will drag out the build considerably because you'll need curing time.
G'day, just thought I'd let you know if you paint your pvc conduit with acrylic exterior paint you will protect from uv rays and extend tihe life by years
There will be a lot more play. It's much easier to do it this way, because the PVC slips in and out while being held firmly. If you use 1 inch conduit straps alone, there will be a lot of empty space and the hoop houses will chatter in wind.
This is a smart modification. I wish you were here to help design a hoophouse for my round galvanized stock tank brassica garden. (My beloved fox terrier always had oatmeal with a little milk and butter on Saturday mornings and an egg on Sunday mornings. Her coat was shiny.)
You can follow the same design, but cut the EMT very long and pound them into the ground up against the inside wall of your raised bed. The EMT will have to be pretty long so you can get 12+ inches of it embedded in the ground, but if you get it really close to the inside wall of the bed, it should provide enough strength for some hoops.
In a galvanized stock tank you can only push the ends of the PVC so far into the tub before hitting the bottom of the tub. Hopefully that would be sufficient to hold the coverings. You can use PVC to criss cross at the center and cover that. You will have extra material on the ground that you can then cut the long ends off so you don't have so much material on the ground. IF the tup is empty you can screw those conduit clamps to the inside of the tub to hold the PVC. If it is already planted, like mine, I put those clamps on the outside. It just doesn't look as nice. I like the idea of using shorter conduit and clamps so you can just place the PVC over the conduit. I would leave it a little higher than the top of the tub so potting mix doesn't end up filling the short ends of the conduit over time. Good luck with your growing!!!
Interesting comment about UV exposure degrading PVC. In Australia its quite common for PVC to be use above ground such as down pipes. My house is 10 years old and has PVC downpipes with full exposure to our harsh sun. No problems so far. I wonder if our local laws/standards mandate UV protection in our PVC pipes 🤔
I followed your lead from a previous video and covered my plant with plastic and heated the house with incandescent Christmas lights. When do I use plastic vs. frost blanket? My trying to protect my banana plant.
That cutting tool is seriously cool and seems to work better than the can openers in my kitchen but if you know your measurements you can get the cutting done for you at the big box store.
I don't think they will cut EMT for you. All they'll cut is lumber, and they have a maximum of 2 cuts. And be prepared to wait. You'll want to invest into the $14 cutter, because you'll need to cut a bunch of these. Each bed will need at least 6.
@@TheMillennialGardener That's the right tool for applications that need clean (or spark free) cuts. A hack saw would be cheaper and probably quicker for this case.
Great video!! I’m wondering if anyone would know… do you think these hooped structures with the cloth would help with keeping the deer away? Any thoughts?
Thought you might like to know that Lowes have Mexican Cream and Pink Guava in store for $13.98 and are around 3ft tall. I got the pink in February and its now 8ft tall, and fruited 3 times here in FL 9a. I keep it in a half barrel pot and put it the garage if it goes below 30. I got the Mexican Cream variety today.
I've never seen a Guava sold at a big box store. My guess is they're regional to Florida stores. Generally speaking, they'll only get fruit trees that will actually grow in-ground in the region. The most "tropical" thing I've ever seen at my Lowe's are cold hardy avocados.
I have one. The EMT conduit cutter featured in the beginning of the video cuts PVC as well. It's just easier to use a saw when it's in place on top of the structure.
If you enjoyed this video, please "Like" and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 😀TIMESTAMPS here:
0:00 Year Round Hoop House Benefits
1:52 New Raised Bed Hoop House Design
2:58 Materials List
3:03 How To Cut EMT Conduit
4:13 Hoop House Frame Installation
10:43 Hoop House Cover Installation
12:36 How To Use A Hoop House Year Round
14:38 Adventures With Dale
Using a heat gun to help bend the pipes the way you want them will make it easier. While a hair dryer isn't as effective, it will still help the pipes to bend somewhat.
Hold up… if you paint the PVC they wont deteriorate!!!
I’m impressed with not only the design but with your instructions- you talked plainly and slow enough for us old folks to understand the instructions and I thank you for that- gonna give this little hoop house a try - I’m a 76 old lady fro deep east Texas and I love new ideas - thanks again God bless
I'm 76 as well this will be great in the garden I live in South Florida
If you have a heat gun (or any heat source), you can warm the pvc and it will freely bend into the shape you want. Then when it cools it will hold the shape perfectly. This way you won't keep flexing the pipe when you want to remove or put it back on. Less breakage.
Love the conduit holders.
May I suggest giving the pvc a clear coat of paint to protect it from UV. Works on those plastic lawn chairs too.
Can you please suggest the right paint? I'd like very much to 'restore' some pvc lawn chairs, chaise lounge, but don't want peeling paint to be he new look! I asked at the hardware store, but they had no idea.
Thanks for sharing your techniques. A few tips that will increase the overall life of any wood raised bed frame. Marine caulking and kreg jig joints. The weak point in any lumber bed frame, regardless of the type of wood, are the screw holes and joints. I've been building raised beds primarily with cedar for over 30 years. After the first set started loosening up and deteriorating at the fastening points I experimented with my next build. The kreg jig allows you to sink the screws at an angle and avoid the screws running with the end grain. Marine caulk at every screw hole seals them up. A Marine caulk with adhesive further strengthens each screw hole and joint. My previous beds would always eventually fail at the corners and require replacement or bracing. With these upgrades the corners no longer fail before the wood eventually deteriorates. I like the 3M fast cure products with the adhesive. Some may think it's over kill but for an additional few bucks per bed it's a wise investment. My oldest cedar beds with these upgrades are close to twenty years old. The bottoms have deteriorated some but the joints are strong. I moved several of these beds last spring and was surprised how well they have held up.
That’s great info, TY! Is it better to have the wood beds sitting on gravel or ground for longevity or it doesn’t matter since it’s being filled with soil? Again, Ty for all your valuable experienced recommendations.
In my experience the bottom third of a bed built with lumber deteriorates from the inside that faces the soil. Not a noticeable difference between the bottom and a few inches above it. I assume it's because this section, the bottom third, remains the dampest section. One thing that I started doing a while back to help alleviate the deterioration. I take a hoe and mound the soil away from the outer edge of the interior so it doesent spend the off season as damp as it would if left resting on the bed.
good plan. Thanks
This is the first year I have used cold frames in the garden and it is working really well. Tomorrow is christmas and I will be able to pick a nice mixed salad for our meal. I am using old storm windows to cover my raised beds (after shovelling out six inches of soil to give growing space for the plants) and that works well as other growers have shown. But by far the best cold frame I made is from an old 2 by 4 foot skylight I saw on the side of the road for free. I just built walls out of deckboard and set the skylight on top. The glass is bubble shaped and two panes thick so it sheds snow and rain and gives lots of room for the salad greens to grow as well as a very good insulation value. If you bought a cold frame of this quality it would cost a fortune, but you can make your own very cheaply from an old skylight for next to nothing.
Growing plants under protection in winter is a revelation. However, the same thing is true all year round. This is why I like a versatile frame where you can change the type of cover with the seasons. If you are enjoying the results of cold protection, changing out the cover for insect netting in spring and shade cloth in the summer produces similar incredible results. I change covers like I change shirts based on the weather. Having a variety of covers makes life easier year round.
So, you dug a 2x4 foot space out at 6 inches deep, lined the edges with 5-6 inch wide boards...and put the skylight over that...I wonder how it could be hinged ? All in all, great idea! Thank you..
Zip ties are also a good idea to secure the central member 9:33 (if you think the humidity will weaken the tape)
Zip ties have sharp edges and would cut the fabric I think.
You can, but you need to be careful to cut the excess and aim them down inside the bed or they will tear the fabric. The sharp edges are an issue, so you have to be careful if you use them.
GREAT video! Thx for showing the error/blooper. I appreciate seeing others have similar experiences that I have and knowing how to recover.
Thank you!❤
It was a fitting inclusion since I just had discussed how electrical conduit is superior. The timing was perfect.
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU! This Is what I have been searching for in south Louisiana, a way to control summer heat, bugs and frost. With the extra benefit of inexpensive! 👍👍
It works really well. I highly recommend the 40% shade cloth Memorial Day to Labor Day. It is absolutely incredible. The stuff I use is linked in the video description.
Love this! 2 sisters (60's) say thank you! We can do this! You are such a great instructor and the list is crazy helpful. We are in JAX setting up our raised beds. Tell Dale we said "Hi" :)
We have a similar design but use rebar stakes next to the bed and just slip the pipe over the top of the rebar. Love how you put the center pipe on, definitely adding that ours this next season!
@TracisGarden
I like your idea. I have metal raised beds and I didn’t want to drill into them.
Thanks for sharing. 😊
Been using rebar stakes for my pvc greenhouse since the late 80s works very well, is cheaper and less time to install.
You can do that, but I don't consider that to be removable. You have to keep the hoops on at all times, because the rebar sticking out of the ground is a major safety hazard. I use that method for my shade tunnel out in my main yard to secure the PVC, but it's elevated so that cannot happen.
Thanks for sharing, I have metal raised bed also. Rebar will work great
Just slip a little piece of pvc over the rebar when it’s not in use to soften it up
I love the PVC snap. It represents everything that happens in my life. Can't just be done efficiently... it has to take at a minimum of two additional steps.
Thank you for always sharing these fantastic ways to improve our gardens. I love your channel, and as usual, I love hearing the old Jersey accent, since I am originally from there as well. I grew up, in New Jersey right outside of Philly. Keep those videos coming to help the rest of us!
Good info!
I did PVC hoops 7-8 years ago, but I did 4 hoops for a 8 foot bed and they are still going strong. I am in NJ.
However, I don't remove them, so maybe that's why they lasted.
TIP; bend PVC when warm out.
I've looked at doing something similar for mine. The EMT sleeves is a really good idea. I was planning to use the gray electrical PVC pipe since it's UV resistant (also have Carolina sun!). Instead of 3/4"x1/2" tees and drilling and screwing them into the pipe, and possible breaking it at the stress points, I plan to use 1/2" tees glued in the middle of the end hoops, and a 1/2" X glued in the middle of the middle hoop, and glue the cross brace pipe into those. I think this will provide a more robust support. The only issue may be getting the same bending radius of the hoop, but will see.
If you dremel out the pipe stops the T will slide all the way on the pipe without cutting the pipe in the center creating a weak point. If you don’t own a dremel or die grinder you can use a coarse rasp/ round file.
I personally think cutting the PVC pipes is not a good idea. I think they’re more likely to fail at the stress points if you cut them and glue them rather than just drill a small hole and secure a slip coupling over them. I haven’t been able to find a better cheap solution than what I’m doing in this video.
What glue would you use for the tees?
@@kaaylaskorner purple primer and standard pvc cement
I have hoops for Christmas lights over my drive. I cut the PVC for cross brace supports and they barely lasted the season. Bending causes enough stress but the cuts cause more weak points where the Tee's are glued or not
I am doing hoops on my raised beds as well and It has been down to the 20s so I clipped my frost blanket and my 6 mil greenhouse plastic together with stainless clamps and remove when it’s above freezing during the day I grab them and flip them off of the hoops until sunset then flip them back over hoops for night temps. I’m harvesting Romaine, spinach, Arugula, Pak Choi and Red express cabbage mustards Chard beets carrots onions😅 ridiculously easy.
I like this design but I would have to adapt it to fit my situation since my beds are metal. I would just pound the EMT conduit into the ground next to the bed and place the hope tubes into it.
I would actually recommend you pound the EMT into the ground inside the raised bed right up against the edges. The reason why is the tension of the PVC hoops will be pushing "outward." If you place the EMT outside of the bed, it'll slowly push them away from the beds overtime. By placing the EMT up against the inside wall, the wall of the bed itself will stop that and actually make for a tighter install.
@@TheMillennialGardenersome beds have bottoms preventing you from pounding anything deeper than the beds height.
I like the EMT bracket concept. I have similar design and will probably update if I have to redo them at any time. I have the ends closed on my beds and have them covered with mesh for bugs. 3 times the wind collapsed the frames so I replaced the top rail with 1/2" emt and put T post at each end to restrict end movement. No problem since.
For these hoops, the covers should be removed when winds exceed 25-30mph sustained. This is why I like the PVC clips. Covers can be taken off in, literally, 30 seconds. It's not a big deal, so it's worth removing the covers in bad weather.
I live in Oklahoma where we can get some pretty impressive hail. I use cattle/hog panels made of wire - relatively inexpensive, and plan to put plastic and shade cloth over them. My hope is that the wire pattern will help prevent hail damage to both the garden and the material I’m using to cover it.
I live in Kansas and yes we get alot of the same storms. I am going to use this method or something so my plants don't get murdered after I get to planting next month.
Good idea, another way would be to get some rebar , cut at 18-24 inches each and pound in the ground. Then just insert the pvc in the rebar on each side of your beds . No fiddling with screws and conduit fasteners, plus alot cheaper
I have used this method, but I don't have any way to cut rebar. So I bought the small 2 ft rebars and 4 ft rebars. They cost almost as much as the 10 ft rebar. I was sad because i needed 6 of them !
Before installing the plastic pipe, spray it with a good paint a couple times to protect it from the sun. I've done it and it makes the pipe last twice as long. Thanks Bud.
We also did this in our school garden. Mostly for aesthetic purposes when agribon was removed but the paint definitely extends the life of the PVC. We painted ours green.
I enjoy your videos SO MUCH! You’re a great instructor showing what can happen (by accident) when pvc pipes get dried out. You helped me solve my problem! Thank you!
Spray painting all of the frame before assembly would make it look nice and preserve the plastic. A gray primer would work just fine.
Love this video. You are extremely clever. Gorgeous Dale, i wish all dog owners had your ❤
Thanks! Dale is a sweet boy and deserves the best. He has such a big heart.
just a suggestion, I use 3/4” white PEX, it bends nicely and holds up to UV much better!
Love the video and love video time with Dale! He is such a sweet dog.🙂❤
He's a very good boy. He's got such a big heart.
You made the directions so easy for someone like me to be able to accomplish this design. Thanks so much!!
Thanks to you and previous videos on hoop covers, we were able to extend our harvest for our bush beans for the last 2 seasons. Looking forward. That's really cute santa PJ's for Dale. Yummy breakfast for Dale too. Strange how we were always told by the vets not to give our pets people food. It's much healthier than kibbles and bits I think. Lucky and happy.... Dale.
Outstanding! I love hearing you're growing longer! I bet you can start them a little earlier, too! Dale has a more extensive (and expensive) wardrobe than I do. I have old jeans, t-shirts and sweatshirts and he has a closet full of designer fashion 😂
That is absolutely false about food, and it's terrible what people have been taught. You have to be mindful of what you're cooking, because a lot of healthy things for humans are toxic to dogs (grapes/raisins, onions, garlic, etc.), they can't process fats as well as humans can and need leaner meats, and vegetables need to be boiled until soft to deactivate the harmful natural chemicals in plants and help their digestion. But the idea of "dog food" is absurd. If there isn't a such thing as "human food," there is no such thing as "dog food." Imagine if a human being was fed nothing but Cheerios for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day for 10 years. A human would go insane after about 4 days of that, yet that's what we do to our pets and then wonder why they develop allergies, nutrient deficiencies, weird diseases and become picky eaters. Pets need varied diets full of fresh food just like people do for health. We have gotten really good at cooking for Dale. Every week we rotate a different protein. We buy frozen beef liver and put liver in his food every 3rd meal. We buy him jasmine rice as his food base, because it doesn't have any nasty "enriched" fake vitamins and harmful proteins like brown rice and whole grains have, we give him greens out of the garden that we stew, and he takes daily vitamins. He's doing absolutely fantastic. He has no allergies, no itching, his fur is beautiful, he runs around like a lunatic puppy still even though he's roughly 5 years old, and he just loves his meals. He goes crazy for them. It's working well.
@@TheMillennialGardener can you please do a few detailed videos on cooking for Dale? I'd like to start cooking for my Lab! And the info on the vitamins and where he got his PJ's too! Thanks! Woof! 🥰🐶🐾
Thanks, it's good to see the surprises - like the plumbing pvc breaking - that would happen to me!!😅 Your experiential Insights are very Informative...
Love this idea. Don't want to worry about the material floating away OR stopping the upward growth of plants.
This is awesome! I'm struggling with a temporary mini hoop design for my apartment balcony to protect my greens from frost during our Montreal winters. to cover both ends, I imagine I could simply tuck the plastic under the frame, this would keep it removable and allow easy access from one side as needed.
We did a similiar design, however I used 10,' pvc on each side to roll up down the 4 mil plastic. I open them on east side in am, and than westside in pm depending on the weather. We r zone 4b. In heat of summer i leave both rolled up sides on top for shade in heat of day or preference of vegie. When the rolled down and protecting i use bricks to hold them down. When up i use a variety of clips to secure to center pvc and to keep from unrolling. The big greens clips go over the white ones and protect them well. I made end covers that easily attach when needed.
I am repurposing an old portable aluminum car port that lost its plastic covering "they never last more than a year where I live) into a greenhouse, shade room, bug, bird protection room. How did you attach the 10ft PVC to the plastic so you can roll it up when needed? That is my last hurdle in building this thing. Thank you for that great idea!!!!!
Loved the additional detail on hoops. I attachedchoops straight to side the beds. It did
your channel is exactly why i love engineers so much! my partner is an engineer and i just really admire and appreciate how your minds work. 😊 thank you!
I'm glad you enjoy it! It's tough being an engineer and living inside our minds. At least others can benefit from our insanity 😆
Try a 1/2" pvc cross at the center and 1/2 tees on end... glue it all. Allow to set up overnight before trying to bend to fit your emt conduit sleeves. This is how I do my beds. Try it... you'll like it! 👍
If you use electrical pvc conduit it is uv stabilized and will last longer than the white plumbing pipe. Also pipe and conduit come in differing wall thicknesses you'll want schedual 40 for these.
I built 2 of these today and I love them. Way easier than what I was planning on doing. Thanks!
It's really easy. Once you build one and figure it out, you can replicate it in about 30 mins start to finish.
Thanks! Always great, informative, and professional videos.
My dogs love eggs too. So good for them.
Thank you! Eggs are wonderful. It's one of the healthiest foods on Earth for people and pups alike!
Wow thank you! You explained so clearly perfectly that I feel I can follow this even as a newer gardener!!!
I think the reason that pvc pipe broke is not so much the UV from the sun . I think the fact that it had two screws dead center was the contributing factor. So if/when you decide to relocate them, take the screws out first, don't try to bend them with the screws in place.
Great vid. I appreciate you and your excellent instruction. I spray paint my pvc pipe and I've got pieces that are 10 years old. I have a really hard time dripping into pvc, you make it look so easy.
Fantastic design! Thanks for all the links to products too. Very helpful.
👍Nylon fabric is breathable and lets light thru is durable, warm and shading
I recommend getting actual agricultural fabric. It's designed for this sort of thing, it's pre-cut at the right dimensions and it's very cheap.
I can tell you enjoy your garden. Sure is nice not to have to mow grasses in it. Thank you for all the information and I appreciate it. I learned a lot from you.❤
Gonna try to do something like this for my potted avocado tree. Zone 8a NC
Hi Anthony, It may be the holes in the pipe that made it break. 😊 Great hoophouse information 😊 Thank you Brother ❤ GOD BLESS YALL and Have a very Merry Christmas ❤😊
That probably had something to do with it. It dry rotted. Have a merry Christmas 🎄!
Do you have a video tutorial on how you made your clamps?
The conduit clamps? They're a standard electrical item. They're really cheap. I have them linked in the video description.
@@TheMillennialGardener Is she asking about the PVC claps you used to hold the plastic to the hoops?
This is amazing--the best DIY hoop house that i've seen. Can't wait to try it!
That’s pretty smart and I like this design compared to what I have been doing. Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
I live on the Texas Gulf Coast and we BAKE all summer long. In the spring I am installing the T-post/electrical conduit design you showed earlier this year as the cloth support for my beds. I have 4 metal raised beds, each 4' x 4' and 18" tall. Your videos are full of great ideas!
It will seriously change your garden. You'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner. If you drape that shade cloth up above, it will make such an enormous difference.
This is a great idea for ease of changing the hoops, but it still seems very cumbersome to unsnap all the clips for opening and closing and changing fabrics. What do you suggest for this?
We had leftover 3/4" irrigation tubing that we connected to garden fencing to make our pole bean trellis. It's lasted 5 gears & is super cheap. We will try using it for fhe hoop house & see how it works
I am recycling my black PVC irrigation tubing and the brown PVC with emitters to make covers for my big tubs to protect my plants. I really like using the short conduit sections so it is easy to remove the covers when necessary. Someone also said they used rebar and just slipped the PVC over them. We can use what we have on hand!
Brilliant. Thank you. We were just overrun with a morman cricket migration. I"ll be ready next year!
Thanks as always for the ideas! I was thinking of driving 2 ft rebar into the ground the standing the pvc pipe over it to hold up but I like the idea of the emt pipe now 🤣🤣🤷♂️
This is what I do on my beds. What I don't like is the rebar sticking up out of the ground when I am not using them.
@@charlesdevier8203 that was my fear too
You can do that, but then the hoops will not be removable. Having rebar sticking out is a huge hazard and people could trip and be impaled on them, so if you choose to use rebar, you cannot remove the hoops, ever, except for eventual replacement from sun damage.
Very creative problem solving thinking. Thank you for sharing your creativity and experience.
You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful.
Great flexibility! I like this a lot and plan to apply this to my next garden!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
It’s a bit more work, but if you use a3-way angle connector it puts less bend on the pipes and it make last longer given the lower level of bend stress. For the middle, spend the money and get a 4 way cross.
I'll second your suggestion. Any hole drilled in conduit becomes the weakest point. Further stress is placed on it by bending and then the load placed on it. The 4 way fitting with adhesive will actually make that the strongest point on that frame. Time is money.
Great idea! Not sure what I can use for30" wide beds thats flexible, but I like the clamps outside and the ability to transfer them
The measurements in both inch and cm are so nice to have
I try to make the videos so everyone in any country can use the information.
YOU DA MAN! Excellent presentation!
Glad it was helpful!
Dfinitely going to use these for my 6 4x4 beds thanks.....
You're welcome!
Just thought I'd share... If you use greenhouse UV film, you'll want to try the metal electrical conduit because the plastic on plastic will degrade the greenhouse film. We use the 1/2" metal conduit and made a jig to bend it to fit our beds. Super sturdy for windy locations! Cheers!
I was thinking of making a jig, just a 3/4” sheet of plywood cut on a radius work?
I can’t use greenhouse film here. It gets too hot during the day. It was such a pain having to constantly vent it. It would be 110° in there by 10AM in January 😂 I can’t recommend greenhouse film unless you’re in a very cold place or you have a way to vent it easily. I use row covers only now.
@jeffreylyons1531 yes, just measure the width of the bed for your radius. I mounted my jig on another board and added a block on one side to hold the pipe in place. Makes it easier to bend. I also use shock cord (bungee) across the top of the plastic or netting, etc. Attach carabiner with a hose clamp to the pipe near ground level and the plastic/ netting easily slides up and down for access/ventilation. Works great!
Wish I could see a picture of that
@@kaaylaskorner I'll take a picture tomorrow!
Good video as always! I wanted to tell you that I have spray painted my pvc to help with UV exposure breakdown. Happy Holidays from my homestead in northwest Florida.
I'm guessing that probably works well. Any paint layer is going to extend the life of materials. I bet one of those plastic sprays like Plasti-Dip would work great, too.
@@TheMillennialGardener I enjoy seeing the happy colors in the garden. I also spray paint my metal T-posts many different colors such as aqua, pink, purple, yellow, and so on...
Liking this design and would want to use it for my container fig trees (pretty much in the 15-gallon containers you have linked in your storefront) I would create the frame with pressure treated wood, but not fill it in with soil. Do you think there would be enough height for the container trees or should I consider different dimensions? You mentioned using this solution for all your outside plantings, did this include your container figs? Many thanks for sharing your ideas.
If you build a 4'x10' raised bed like I do, that's going to give you anywhere from 40-50 inches of clearance depending on where you place the trees. Obviously, trees in the center of the bed will have more clearance than trees along the edges. If you were to substantially prune the trees before storage, it may be possible, but I don't know how many trees you have. I can tell you once the figs start leafing out and putting on growth, they'll be growing out of the bed quickly.
Thanks, I see what you mean- placing them in the center would probably allow 3-4 containers per unit and I have about 12 trees (not a good use of space)- maybe I just forget the raised beds for the trees, lay down the black tarp and consider more of a slant or flat top design on standing poles instead of the hoop approach.
Merry Christmas and happy gardening next year. Keep on keeping on.
Merry Christmas!
Use rebar pound it in the ground on the corners and the 1/2 pvc fits right onto it, cheap and quick.
I am new with this, but you video help me. Thank you!!
Amazing video! Being in Phoenix, the EMT conduit will be a game changer for it's UV protection with our sun. (The UV seems harsher here, but is that really true? I don't know - but we get a lot of really hot sun).
In the past I have had to spray paint the pipes with uv protection, but now I won't have to do that messy job. The price for the pipes may end up the same as the cheaper pipes + UV Resistant spray paint.
Dale looks cool in his Santa jammies. LOL
Yes, your UV is particularly bad for three reasons: lack of clouds in the sky, your higher elevation (thinner atmosphere means more UV penetration), and low humidity (water vapor in the air actually reflects UV). Phoenix is the perfect storm for UV damage. Making hoops out of EMT would last a lot longer, but you need to weigh the cost of the EMT, the time it takes to bend them, the tools you'll need to buy (like a pipe bender) and the fact you'll probably ruin numerous lengths of pipe trying to get it right. For me, the raised beds themselves are only going to last 10-12 years or so, so it doesn't make sense to me to spend all that time and money on metal pipes when it's just easier to replace the PVC. I would, in your position, do something like buy PVC electrical conduit and spray it with something like Plasti-Dip paint to put another layer of UV protection and just bite the bullet and replace them in 3-5 years when they eventually fail. I wouldn't mess with EMT unless I was building a real high tunnel designed to last a lifetime. But, if you only have a couple beds to cover, maybe it is worth your time to do so. If you know an electrician with a pipe bender, I'd invite them over for a few drinks 😀
👍will be making these with a few changes since I have cement blocks instead of wood.
I bet you can secure them with a masonry bit and concrete screws if you don't mind.
@@TheMillennialGardener hmm I’ll definitely try that 😉👍
Good to see dale cozy and content
He's got it made 🐶
Glad you figured this out! I will be moving in the spring and building new beds 🙂
Nice! Where are you heading? Warmer or cooler?
@@TheMillennialGardener Not far away from where I am now in NC. Closer to my hubby's work and his daughter.
To do something a little different, if you want a taller hoop structure that is outside of the bed so that growing plants don't push into it, you can modify the mounting/bottom section of this, and the bendable tubing, whatever you use will fit over metal conduit.
Use 1/2" metal rod, 3 ft., 1/2" metal conduit (1/2" interior) that will slide over the metal rods, and then whatever tubing you want that will fit over the metal conduit.
With metal rods, sharpen one side into a point, then pound 1/2 way into the ground. Slide conduit over the rod and then put the tubing on the conduit.
You can make a pretty large hoop structure this way. If you get bad storms you probably need to use line to anchor the ends so the structure won't sway bad and forth.
I have done with conduit clamps and just don't tighten all the way down. So can remove the pvc pipes at will.
Wonderful idea! Thank you!
You're welcome!
I love your direct, practical, creative efficiency strategies,tips & information. Thank you for your great videos! Ps what type of cabbage are you growing in this vid?
Great idea! I was wondering if you do some sort of crop rotation with your raise beds…and if so how you go about making those decisions.
Sort of, but not really. You can't really rotate crops with a garden as small as mine if you're growing year round. I don't have enough beds to do that effectively. But a garden this small is polyculture by definition, so it's not that big of a deal.
Great idea for the hoop house. I've been enjoying the doggie clips at the end of the videos too! 🐶
What about tomato beds? Some tomatos grow 6 ft tall. Also wondered about making the electrical tube longer and sticking half of it unground so you dont need to screw holders to bed wood? Would that work?
You can grow determinate tomatoes in beds like this. If you want to grow indeterminates, you need a solution like my shade tunnel: ua-cam.com/video/l0gt7MhRrVQ/v-deo.htmlsi=9WCycaZxTag07akm
My dad was a math major in college, basically a math genius, to him, he did the math in his head, and it all made sense, my sister inherited that mind, she has a Masters in Architecture.. I inherited his work ethic.. but not his head for equations.. I see, you put so much work into teaching us.. I've always had a garden, but at 65, I really don't want to weed a garden, so i decided, container figs.. i live in the country, and so many of us bought our property and there's a wild fig tgat has been there for decades, so we exchange plants at the various farmers markets, but, after following you.. they all seem to be like the same??? If that makes sense?? We all have these unknown varieties, but they ALL seem to be a small to medium Celeste??
I have a fenced in area, that I used to have a garden in.. THE DEER EAT EVERYTHING NOT FENCED IN!! So I just bought my weed barrier from your Amazon, I got the one that looks like yours anyway.. Im excited for the spring, now I have 12 container figs, and I'm so excited for spring.. thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us, it's priceless, Merry Christmas Buddy ..
Regions of the US tend to have shared the same fig. Most of the original figs were brought over by Italians when they emigrated here 100-150 years ago. They brought cuttings from their trees in their backyard, but because most wild figs require pollination from the fig wasp which is not endemic to the United States, they found only certain figs with a genetic mutation for persistence would grow here. The lucky Italians that unknowingly brought over parthenocarpic varieties sometimes shared their good luck with others, so a handful of varieties just naturally spread throughout communities. Those varieties still dominate today. If you want to find other varieties, you have to search for them like I do. Figbid is a great place to search for varieties.
Sounds like you have a good garden growing on! I recommend fencing in everything you can. One deer can destroy an entire year's work overnight. I grew up in the woods and remember their destruction well...
@@TheMillennialGardener I love your fenced in property, but, if you move to that Florida Homestead, that's going to hard to fence in??
I would use 1/2" tees and glue them with pvc solvent glue. it will weld the joints together and make it stronger. your method of screwing them will weaken the pipe and crack it over time. But I like the general idea,
I do not want to cut the pipes. That will be the greatest weakness in the system, and it will drag out the build considerably because you'll need curing time.
I have learned so much from you! Thank you for all you do!!!🤗
G'day, just thought I'd let you know if you paint your pvc conduit with acrylic exterior paint you will protect from uv rays and extend tihe life by years
You can just use 1 inch conduit straps. That way the pvc slides in them.
There will be a lot more play. It's much easier to do it this way, because the PVC slips in and out while being held firmly. If you use 1 inch conduit straps alone, there will be a lot of empty space and the hoop houses will chatter in wind.
@@TheMillennialGardener true. I cant wait for you to do some florida gardening. Its a different realm down here.
This is a smart modification. I wish you were here to help design a hoophouse for my round galvanized stock tank brassica garden. (My beloved fox terrier always had oatmeal with a little milk and butter on Saturday mornings and an egg on Sunday mornings. Her coat was shiny.)
You can follow the same design, but cut the EMT very long and pound them into the ground up against the inside wall of your raised bed. The EMT will have to be pretty long so you can get 12+ inches of it embedded in the ground, but if you get it really close to the inside wall of the bed, it should provide enough strength for some hoops.
In a galvanized stock tank you can only push the ends of the PVC so far into the tub before hitting the bottom of the tub. Hopefully that would be sufficient to hold the coverings. You can use PVC to criss cross at the center and cover that. You will have extra material on the ground that you can then cut the long ends off so you don't have so much material on the ground. IF the tup is empty you can screw those conduit clamps to the inside of the tub to hold the PVC. If it is already planted, like mine, I put those clamps on the outside. It just doesn't look as nice. I like the idea of using shorter conduit and clamps so you can just place the PVC over the conduit. I would leave it a little higher than the top of the tub so potting mix doesn't end up filling the short ends of the conduit over time. Good luck with your growing!!!
Interesting comment about UV exposure degrading PVC. In Australia its quite common for PVC to be use above ground such as down pipes. My house is 10 years old and has PVC downpipes with full exposure to our harsh sun. No problems so far.
I wonder if our local laws/standards mandate UV protection in our PVC pipes 🤔
You can also use rebar
Wicked Smart! Timely advice. Thanks.
Great idea. Doesnt look very expensive.
Not at all. That one EMT conduit is enough to make 3 whole beds full of supports.
Can try using a torch to heat the older ones before bending so they don’t break.
Amazing & useful information! Thanks so much!
You're welcome!
Great detail and explanations! Any thoughts on using a 4-way connector in the middle instead of taping the pipes together?
I followed your lead from a previous video and covered my plant with plastic and heated the house with incandescent Christmas lights. When do I use plastic vs. frost blanket? My trying to protect my banana plant.
Thank you. Great job 👏
That cutting tool is seriously cool and seems to work better than the can openers in my kitchen
but if you know your measurements you can get the cutting done for you at the big box store.
I don't think they will cut EMT for you. All they'll cut is lumber, and they have a maximum of 2 cuts. And be prepared to wait. You'll want to invest into the $14 cutter, because you'll need to cut a bunch of these. Each bed will need at least 6.
@@TheMillennialGardener That's the right tool for applications that need clean (or spark free) cuts. A hack saw would be cheaper and probably quicker for this case.
This is wicked smart!! Thank you!
You're welcome!
Those pajamas 😍on Dale
Dale has an extensive wardrobe 😂
Great video!! I’m wondering if anyone would know… do you think these hooped structures with the cloth would help with keeping the deer away? Any thoughts?
Thought you might like to know that Lowes have Mexican Cream and Pink Guava in store for $13.98 and are around 3ft tall. I got the pink in February and its now 8ft tall, and fruited 3 times here in FL 9a. I keep it in a half barrel pot and put it the garage if it goes below 30. I got the Mexican Cream variety today.
I've never seen a Guava sold at a big box store. My guess is they're regional to Florida stores. Generally speaking, they'll only get fruit trees that will actually grow in-ground in the region. The most "tropical" thing I've ever seen at my Lowe's are cold hardy avocados.
Great design and video! Thanks
Excellent. Thanks for posting.
You're welcome!
I suggest getting a Ratcheting PVC Cutter for the PVC. It saves a lot of time if you are making many cuts.
I have one. The EMT conduit cutter featured in the beginning of the video cuts PVC as well. It's just easier to use a saw when it's in place on top of the structure.