Why I'm Wearing Stretch Selvedge Denim. And So Should You!
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- Опубліковано 3 січ 2025
- Ok, so is this another hot take video? Kinda.
It’s more a video to challenge some of the established norms in this little denim niche. Basically, we need to stop gatekeeping. We need to realize the having something as simple as a little stretch in our raw selvedge denim is nothing but a good thing!
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A BRAVE SOUL YOU ARE!
I’m torn but I usually stick with 100% cotton. I think if i biked a lot i may change my mind but i also may get a loser fit? Who is to say!!
Also i will die on the hill of a little bit of polyester not being a bad thing with a wool sweater for example (like 40% or lower), love that it adds strength and structure to the garment!
Hi Micheal i'm youtube, nice seeing you here.
"Loser fit" stealing that for my self-deprecation arsenal
@@mistilteinn3670 UA-cam!!
@@MaurizioBunkus it’s a classic!
100% wool is comfier
You’re right in my opinion. I’ve raw, organic , selvedge in my collection. Best jeans until recently for fit and ease? Nudie stretch. However, I was walking past a small menswear shop in a little city in Taiwan and saw a box outside on the floor with $6 or £ 5 scribbled on it . Inside there were 8 pairs of dark really well stitched jeans with a name I hadn’t heard before called Leon. They looked great. For £5 each , I took 5 pairs. Best jeans ever for me. Double stitching in gold everywhere. Reinforced yoke and crutch. The interesting thing is that they have 4% polyester woven in. Result ? The navy and royal blue never fades . They just look amazing . I have plenty enough jeans that fade . Now I have jeans that act and look like chinos but aren’t. £5 vs $ 118 for my selvedge ? Who cares from a distance or in a nightclub ? No one.
Too true. It’s all about that application.
To your last point you are correct, in sunlight??? May be different
@@alexsherel3344 no one's gonna care about what other grown ups wear
My first selvedge are currently the uniqlo stretch selvedge, and they are fading wonderful.
Heard good things about the fading potential.
Dude I just bought a pair! Can't wait to see how they turn out.
I'm ok with some stretch but I have bought some jeans back when I was in HS from like American Eagle and those felt like actually leggings. Not all stretch denim is created equal and some guys just want comfort straight from the beginning and not have to wait. Naked and famous has really nice stretch denim and I think they are great.
anything more than 2% is too much. that's my preference. anything more is just too stretch and will not stay durable.
98% cotton 2% stretch is the way to go.
Just getting into selvedge, and I wore American Eagle stretch. I loved how they felt when I put them on in the morning and they felt like I was wearing a diaper by noon.
Just a month onto it, but I don’t feel like I’ll go back.
Just bought a pair of Gustin "stretch" selvidge jeans so good to hear your positive experience.
Guess you’ll love them.
My first raw pair was N&F stretch , same ones you have. Definitely makes it easier getting in and out of lifted trucks. Thanks for the review ✌🏽.
I have the same problem haha.
I bet the miners back in the day would have had a bit of stretch in their denim if they could!
Same here lol
I’ve been wearing stretch oni’s for a few years now. They fade amazingly, I can move better, they’re super strong and I don’t get crotch blowouts
The lack of crotch blowouts is a huge argument for stretch.
Black cobras from n&f have been my go to’s for almost two years now. The stretch is amazing, and the fades are coming along very nicely. Idk why people trip on a small amount of stretch lol
Got any pictures of the fade on them
share fade photos!
I just bought a pair of the black cobra since the dress code at work is black pants. I'd love to see how they fade!
I’m pretty new to the raw denim world. I’ve had a few pairs over the years but never actually understood or wore them enough to make them my own. A few months ago I complimented someone on his jeans because they were clearly a step above. After a little conversation, I went hone and got my first real project pair (Iron hearts). The selection and service was incredible and from there, I looked to UA-cam for some guidance breaking them in. I was happily surprised to find this community of fade loving/ denim heads with a wealth of information and opinions who seemed just as obsessed as I was with my new jeans. I quickly fell in love with it all. Part of this was the backstory and craftsmanship that went inti making the jeans but also they just fit (mostly because they are high waisted) and look better then any others I’ve worn.
I’ve had plenty of stretch denim in my day a may get more but it’s not where I’m at right now.
Homer, welcome to the fold mate. And that's a great pair to start things off with! Brave for sure!
I like the way you are open to change and admire and support your stance while at the same time saying "not for me". I want as little synthetic in my life as possible (pretty much only the little bit of nylon in decent cotton or wool socks) so it's 100% cotton for me!
Good call.
Thanks for this video; I really enjoyed it and I’m glad someone is talking about this and setting some things straight. However, I wanted to offer a couple points which I think are, at least to some people, a legitimate issue with stretch raw selvedge. Before I do, let me say I actually love stretch raw selvedge. I don’t wear it anymore, but I do see its rightful place as a tool in the toolbox of denim enthusiasts:
1. Stretch denim wasn’t invented until people started trying to wear jeans that would otherwise be too uncomfortable too wear. In other words, it wasn’t until jeans were technically too small to fit that people started making it stretch. That’s fine actually, as it’s now developed into its own style. For instance, my wife wears skin tight tapered stretch denim. This couldn’t work without the spandex or elastane. It looks fantastic. I’m all about it. So this isn’t yet the issue. The issue arises when wearers are thrown off by the stretch. It becomes a smoke screen, a crutch, a confounding variable in them finding the actual correct fit for their body. They have a body that needs big thigh dimensions or high rise dimensions or wide seat dimensions, but instead of finding the right fit, they buy stretch. Then every time they get interested in raw selvedge that doesn’t have stretch, it’s not comfortable cuz it fits wrong. They end up concluding all they can wear is stretch, when in reality the issue is that they never found the right fit for them because stretch always smoothed over their fit mistakes. Stretch sometimes prevents people from finding their correct rise, cut, waist etc…
2. For some people in heritage clothing (only some, not all; probably not even a majority:), one of the big appeals is that heritage clothing often offers a separation from fast fashion. It’s a rebellion against all the faults of fast fashion. So the stretch, which originates in that industry, to them represents something that doesn’t belong. There’s something about stretch materials which smacks of fast fashion’s lie: “you can fit clothes you actually shouldn’t be wearing”…. “you can look like the model because we cut corners in manufacturing” etc….I’m not saying this is objectively correct; I’m just saying that it is a feeling very real to some people in the heritage clothing community. Stretch materials represent something fake to them, so they want to push it out. They want complete disassociation from mall fashion and all its sweat shops and marketing hype and false advertising and “this is in” “but now it’s out” practices.
Anyways, just want to contribute to the discussion because I really enjoy that you’re on here discussing this stuff. Many just say like two things on their videos. You are actually arguing a point and dialogue with people. I’m grateful for your channel and your approach 🙏🏽
What do you think of these two points?
Ever since I start squatting I can’t fit into any of my old denim cause my leg got a lot thicker. Stretch denim is the way to go for me now
Yeah, I have the same problem. It’s either stretch or more baggy jeans. I still haven’t tried a pair of raws with stretch yet, but it’s on the list.
Wore 100% cotton Levi's in my early 20s. They were pretty terrible. I like my jeans pretty fitted but have big thighs. Every single one of them suffered crotch blow outs. I usually crusade against synthetic fabrics in general, all my t shirts, sweaters, polos (basically upper body clothing) is 100% natural fibers (few few exceptions, 5% poly for a brushed interior makes a hoodie warmer and more comfortable, but still try to avoid it), but need a little bit of stretch in my jeans and shorts. Spending $200+ on jeans and expecting crotch blow outs and and tollerating restricted movement is a little nuts to me (no pun intended).
Glad stretch options are commonplace now.
I have progressively come to enjoy your videos more and more.
You really do offer a fresh perspective!
Thank you.
What shirt are you wearing? Digging that. I can't find a denim shirt video on your profile, unless I'm missing it. I'd love to see one!
I second that! Would enjoy a video or at least a reply on that denim shirt.
Thanks man!
I was wondering what people who are really into denim thought about stretch selvedge. Honestly, I probably wouldn't get into selvedge if it weren't for stretch. Great video!
In fact even my regular jeans have stretch, no, I don’t use my jeans or anything too slim but the fact that the shirts, pants or whatever have some stretch make it more comfy and it wrinkles less, and you have less “bunches” of cloth making you look sharper but you can move you easy, heck I even have a sports jacket with stretch and it’s the one I throw on fast to go out.
I have two pairs of Japanese stretch selvedge from Lee and a pair of Railcars with stretch and I like them. I definitely prefer 100% cotton but there's nothing wrong with stretch denim unless it's some ridiculous amount they add to them like Levis loves to do. Had a pair of black Levis 501s they added something like 10% stretch to and they deteriorated in a year.
Ok, yeah... that's crazy.
@@CeeAreDee Worst part was Levis never advertised them as stretch, this was back around 2011, so I bought them thinking they were standard 501s on sale. Now they at least disclose the materials on their site. Majority of their basic denim isn't 100% anymore aside from the STF and rigid offerings.
I had 100% cotton jeans from Naked&Famous. Since I've been riding I've switched to 98% cotton 2% stretch and clearly I couldn't go back. It's when I try my 100% cotton jeans again that I realize that only 2% stretch adds a lot of comfort.
I got some really nice washes with it.
Honestly. Stretch is nothing but a good thing when it comes to many fits of jeans.
100% agree! I'm getting back into selvedge/raw denim after a while and just ordered a pair of N&F Karui (with 2% elastane) jeans. I wore a N&F left hand twill every day for many years but it developed so many holes, especially crotch blowouts, that it was unsustainable to keep having to repair it so I retired it and unfortunately didn't think about getting back into selvedge/raw denim until recently. I do bike a lot and take public transit much more nowadays, so my non-selvedge standard Levi's with stretch have been very good to me that I really don't see myself going back to non-stretch. Thanks for the video.
And somewhat off topic, but that is a neat Surly rig right there! Cross-Check?
I just wear baggy pants all the time so I don't have issues with mobility but I can see how it would be a problem with more tapered pants
I hear you bro. Great content. I enjoyed mid 80's Girbaud denim and early 80's
501. Currently rocking Iron heart & Brave
Star !
How do you find the brave stars?
Have a couple of pairs of N&F stretch jeans. Was worried that the might be too stretchy she I ordered them…but it very subtle. Comfort is critical in any garment…. Otherwise you will end of not wearing it! Like the 25oz Iron Hearts I bought 15 month ago, that I’ve only worn once!!…. Impossible to attempt to break in a pair of jeans the past year with working from home….and zero movement. Got some sic ass fades going on though!😁
Hahaha. You and me both.
just bought a pair of Left Field NYC Chelsea 13oz Black Maria Nihon Menpu 2% stretch jeans. my first pair of stretch denim. super comfy, we'll see how they fade. the stretch is really nice for skateboarding
Nice shout! Yeah, I have really been converted by these. With skating, I guess you are gonna see how they fade pretty quick!
I recently bought a pair of Left Field sulphur dye black denim with 2% stretch from Nihon Menpu and I am loving them!!
And I will certainly buy more raw denim with a bit of stretch esp. for the slimmer fit, it feels so much better!
hey I bought the same pair along with the 14oz mitsui. the nihon menpu is super comfy, but the mitsui is fading super quickly so Ive been wearing those
@@loadedpainted7040 Have you washed them before wearing? I took LF's advise of wearing them for a month prior washing. My pair is not fading too quickly but definitely fades a bit faster than my other indigo denim.
@@stevefok I haven't soaked or washed them yet. I like to keep all the starch in the fabric for sharper creases and higher contrast fading. I dont think a pre wash/soak has much of an affect on the speed of fading, that mostly has to do with the fabric itself and how u wear them. the mitsui mills black maria denim just seems like it's a fast fading denim. nihon menpu seems to fade moderately fast, but Ive never had jeans fade as fast as these mitsui jeans.
i am wearing the Black Budokan Brave Star..nice pair thou. Selvedge with a bit of stretch no issues for me.
It’s good, right!
My pair of N&F with stretch in em (the work pant blue ones) fit awesome, FADED awesome... but turned into jeggings after cold wash. they just wouldnt relax or stretch back out.
Ah yeah? The shrank down? 😟
I went hard on the raw 100% cotton denim a while ago but now I like stretch, its just not comfortable for me to wear ones without it
I'm just not a fan of synthetic fibers and stretch means synthetic fibers. The fabric just feels different and the most comfortable thing for me is 100% natural fibers. No matter whether cotton or wool.
My first pair of selvedge denim were a pair of 21oz Unbranded jeans (sister co of N&F) that I wore throughout the Summers, which were quite sweaty. I love Naked & Famous jeans and I've seen all their stretch denim but I can't bring myself to buy it. I've got on old pair of N&F Elephant 4 that I'm currently working on now.
BTW no bike thieves in Berlin?!? My buddy in Berlin (p-berg) had his cellar storage unit broken into specifically to steal his bike, that seems a bit more than "opportunistic".
To piggyback on the “potentially risky unpopular opinion” thread : I love my Uniqlo 35EUR slim-selvedge pair, they get more primetime than some of my more expensive, Japanese pieces. Maybe worth a video? Anyway, cheers from Munich, great video!
Agree. You can actually move on them too!
Well it’s from Kaihara. It’s all brand you’re paying for eventually. And Uniqlo doesn’t necessarily have to make a profit on them because their other stuff is doing good enough.
the Uniqlo's are the perfect gateway selvedge. the only complaints i had about mine was the zip fly, and the black ones tend to fade into this almost rust red/orange color instead of gray. other than that, though, i think they're amazing.
Same here. I got a many denim pants from some premium brands for top dollars (well, € in my case) but what I wear the most are my Uniqlo Slim Selvedges. They look great, fit great, they are super comfortable and super affordable. They also fade beautifully. There’s really no need for me to purchase any super high-end denim anymore. That’s stupid. Those days are over. The Uniqlos are everything I need when it comes to jeans.
Most comfortable truly everyday jeans are my deep indigo stretch selvedge. Also have black cobra stretch.
However they do not fade nearly as high contrast as a 100% cotton pair. Wayyyyyy comfier though. Also they are really stubborn faders in general, a year of pretty regular and rough wear and they just have a phone and wallet fade and little scuffs on the inside of the leg. The rest of it is still dark, virtually no honeycomb and whiskering.
If you’re getting jeans to fade and for the experience, get 15+ oz cotton.
If you’re getting jeans to have a great pair of jeans, get 12 oz stretch.
Also maybe you can get better fades from other brands of stretch denim. Still, if denim is a hobby then 100% cotton is gonna be the main focus.
Great episode, I personally do not care what other denim heads wear. I have a pair of 25oz and I will never buy anything over 15oz again....
Why?
@@mjaye3093 I personally do not think it is comfortable to wear ... I love my 25oz but they are enough ..
@@BF30Duca OK, I see! I've got 2 pairs at 28oz. I absolutely love them. One pair has never been worn and the other pair are worn in nicely. I think they are my favourite jeans and they will definitely last a while. 😁
Whatever your choice, you gotta be comfy.
I totally agree. If we didn’t change to meet modern needs sometimes then we’d still be driving Ford Model Ts.
Very true. 👏🏻🙌🏻
Thank you for saying it a small percent stretch is so much better I I’m lookin to get the cobra stretch from NnF for day to day!
Good choice! For a day to day this could be super nice!
Back in 2014 PRPS jeans had a softer Japanese Selvedge denim, I think Demon fit. PRPS also had a women's line
I remember those. I think that was kinda the downfall of the brand sadly :(
Mr. McGuire: Are you listening?
Benjamin: Yes, I am.
Mr. McGuire: Plastics.
Benjamin: Exactly how do you mean?
Mr. McGuire: There's a great future in plastics. Think about it. Will you think about it?
I can't think of any guy over the age of 30 that would be opposed to having a little stretch in the waist. especially around the holidays or even just going out to eat.
I’m not against stretch denim but I don’t see myself wearing it. It’s probably just stupid snobbery on my part but I like observing the heritage workwear aesthetic and stretch just feels sacrilegious to me. It does seem to be a trend with almost every manufacturer these days and they wouldn’t make it if people were not wanting it. That springiness in the fabric feels good but it doesn’t feel right to me. Just my opinion. Thanks for the video, as always.😊
Yeah, I get that. I don’t see this in the heritage workwear realm however. That’s an aesthetic that brings with it a certain practicality with the fits being well suited to non stretch denim. Probably a result of this need for practicality in fact. With stretch L, good quality jeans suddenly become a viable option for many folks. I’m in that lies their appeal. And their practicality.
@@CeeAreDee Just coming across this video. Can you tell me what brand shirt you’re wearing in this video? Thank you!
Just ordered a pair of naked and famous nightshade stretch selvedge and I’m looking forward to see how they’ll fade.
My favorite pair of jeans is Iron Heart 888 SST. Survived 2 accidents and blew out the crotch after 3-4 years. I have 2 pairs any they’re still going strong.
What shirt is that MR C?
Old old LVC.
@@CeeAreDeeLevi’s? Not seeing the tab or this style pockets?
Since i discovered jeans with stretch, now most of my jeans have some stretch. Much more comfortable. I am a avid cyclist and stretch make a big difference.
They also last longer if you’re really active.
I love a good “authenticity” discussion. Post modern theory is built on the premise that searching for authenticity is a fools errand. Everything you see is a copy of a copy of a copy. Nothing you see, feel, taste or smell is authentic.
Great point!
Never thought of it that way!
One question though. Do elastane denim get smelly easier than 100% cotton? What is your experience?
So far. No difference.
Havnt been commenting but still here! Cheers my guy
Appreciate it mate
i’m a 100% cotton guy all the way. have tried the stretch, and hate it… for some reason it makes the material feel extremely “cheap” as in low quality. i know that’s not the case but it’s purely mental haha
I mean for sure, its a lot to do with what the person is into. I must say tho, the selvedge that these jeans were made of, I could not tell the difference. Only when I wore them I could feel that there was a little more give.
Bought the exact same N&F jeans and enjoy wearing them. The question I would like to see more answers is does it worth the premium over your regular 501 Levis. My answer would be yes in that price range (or Unbranded), feel comfortable, well made and cool stuff like the real leather patch. Just not much into other more expensive brands that often have weirder looking fit, at least for a mature man.
I've got a couple of pairs of PBJ stretch denim to go alongside my heavier, 100% cotton cousins... Slub, fades and comfort... Not for everybody, sure, but having the option is a good thing in my opinion... Keep up the good work mate 🤙🏼
Cheers Jason. Appreciate it
I think we talked baout it already, i love to wear my PBJ 12Oz Stretch Black Denim. Its super lovely and just always fits the way i want to! Everyone should try it out imho.
As per opening lines. I am one of the guys who does not like it( stretch). Had to edit, i like pre washed, i do not have anything against stone wash. In the back of my head stretch does not seem 'right' for selvedge. But what do i know, i am just a humble pleb.
Love stretch jeans in the beginning. Then after a few washes they are no longer smooth and get like little bumps all over and i throw them away. Going back to regular cotton denim that last for years and years.
What jeans were you wearing? I've worn stretch Luckys, Joe's, Wranglers, and various mall brands over the years and they never developed that. They never really did anything after laundering than soften up a little. Were you washing them weekly?
The drilling part 😂😂😂 chaos
How I roll.
I’m gonna try these
Do it mate. They are great!
Good evening Sir, I realize im late to the party but wanted to ask a question!!! I Usally wear a 38 waste but im not sure if i should size up to 40 waste. Raw Denim runs a tad smaller can you please help me out. The same exact pants your showing. Thank you the video was great 👍
im super curious abt their Strecth Selvedge from N&F
nothing wrong with stretch. I like wearing my jeans for 8-10 years though and treat them pretty rough, so the fact that these plastics breakdown overtime is a big deal breaker for me
Hi @ceerdee please tell me, as you‘re located in Berlin - from one practical thinking denimhead to another - are there any really cool spots you‘d recommend when shopping vintage Levi‘s or raw denim? I‘m a woman, but I‘m on the tall side with 181 cm, so I wouldn‘t mind the men‘s section.
Surprised those belt loops didn’t look tucked
Ha! Back to Corona days! 🙂
Anyway, I got myself my first stretch raw denim now. It's the PBJ 1167-WBK "Extra Slub Stretch" in 13 oz. I really wonder how they feel and wear!
If you wanted stretchy jeans, why not buy regular denim for a more affordable price? Why go with selvedge?
I think if you’re going for something like naked and famous then you are guaranteed a certain level of quality and the fact they are selvedge doesn’t really matter. Here is may act as a signifier of quality for some. But I’ll go by the brand in that case.
I feel like stretch won't give me those nice crease I have some nudie jeans with stretch they don't crease at all if they do it's barely mildly . I did just washed them and air dryer ima try and wear them daily and see how it goes it's not as good as regular dry non stretch denim . They were a bit on the big side because Amazon sent the wrong size at a discount I got them for under $90 we'll see how they do now since I did a hot soak and they shrinked up a bit not much so they do fit more snugg. Any advice on how to get better wear ane fades
Btw liked the blue flame vid. Im buying my first broken twills from bravestar. 13.5oz japanese selvedge. I hope it looks similar. Hard to get benzak in Canada.
BDD does ship internationally. And if you sign up for the newsletter you get 10% off the first order. Should go some of the way to covering the cost of shipping.
benzakdenimdevelopers.com/?ktk=UEdKczZRLTk3YWMwOGUyOTYw&tap_a=23949-a716b9&tap_s=788040-80a7f5
@@CeeAreDee Thanks brother! Much love to your vids i always watch
No stretch = trash. With stretch denim you can have extremely comfortable jeans with maximum movement that fit very nicely without being nut busters.
Great video! From your experience does raw stretch denim get loose over time? I got a pair of Nudies that fits me a little snug and I need to decide to keep them or change them for a bigger size. Thanks!
If it’s good quality it shouldn’t. The naked and famous ones I have are still good.
Love those stretch selvedge jeans and may consider buying a pair but the big question many and myself included is: what denim shirt brand and model are you wearing ??
definitely solid jeans you have i seen that brand before at a closeby upscale boutique but never considered that brand 🤔
Wish I knew about this when I bought my first pair a couple weeks ago 😕
came for the denim but left wondering what kind of glasses you have on lol
Haha, Ace and Tate. Super good glasses. Those are about 6 years old and still going strong.
When denim discussion quickly turns into a diy tutorial.
Great video man!
What do you think about denim from the brand Folk? I just picked up a pair of slim fit 13.5oz stretch selvedge indigo jeans from them and they feel/fit amazing. I am wondering how they're going to fade compared to my other non-stretch raw denim jeans but I was wondering if you've ever tried jeans from Folk. Cheers!
Just got myself a pair of N&F jeans, to give it a go, great reccomendation! In Canada, so the choice was easy.
I was watching one of your old videos from 5 years ago, and was wondering if you would still recommend soaking these jeans PRE-WEAR. (sandforized). need to get these jeans hemmed because 34 inseam is a little too long.
Cheers, and thanks for the content!
Definitely do a pre soak.
On the issue of not wearing selvage denim in hot weather, Ive always wondered how the people jeans were originally designed for managed to cope? I mean parts of America like Texas or California get exceptionally hot so how did workers in the cotton fields, or miners, or ranchers deal with wearing jeans? That too heavier weight jeans if the Japanese 'reproduction' denim brands are correct in their research as they seem to like to use 13oz or so denim to be 'authenitic' to original American denim.
Also, wondered where your denim shirt at the beginning of the video is from? Looks good) Soft but with the Wrangler type angled pockets.
Back in the day, the denim was way way lighter than what's considered "normal" today. The denim in old vintage pairs from around the 1890s to the 1940s was around 9oz. That is shirting weight these days. Also, the fits were much more roomy. I cant say it would have been comfortable to work in but in that heat nothing would be. But certainly better than the heavy denim of today.
@@CeeAreDee That makes perfect sense. I wonder then why the Japanese reproduction brands, Im thinking Osaka 5, like to make denim in 13/14 oz if they go to such lengths to imitate the other features of the cloth, cut and other features? Japan is a temperate place so their own domestic audience doesn't necessarily require such weight. I know in another video you mentioned you like midweight at around 13/14 oz for the drape and fades. I just wonder how we got to where we are. Incidentally, in tailoring men used to wear heavier cloths previously which now have become far lighter (15oz-18oz was common previously in trousering and that has come down to about 9-12oz). Denim seems to have reversed this trend)
Also, back then men that weren't manual laborers wore basically 3 piece suits all the time, trousers, long sleeve shirt, waist coat, often an outer layer. No one was ever comfortable. As far as why they make heavier than historically accurate denim now, it's because they can. Most sane people in warm climates wear shorts, which is now socially acceptable. So my 14oz are relegated to 3 season wear only. And Midweight just feels and looks better usually.
“Where did I leave my glasses?”…..me,…..20 times per day….hahaha!
Naw bro ain’t no way… Elastane is a synthetic material that loses shape eventually, bad for enviroment, flamable etc. 100% cotton is the ONLY way denim should be.. it will be just as comfortable if you just break it in for a week if its under 15oz. If it’s ain’t broke don’t fix it. I would only ever consider elastane if i use bicycles or wear skin tight skinnies but I don’t. N&F is good you should’ve got the 13.75 LHT. Way better.
Yeah, but think about the guy who's new to the whole game, who wants that comfort. He will not know to go for the mid weight and wait a week, he will go for the mall bought regular jeans. These I think are a good gateway into raw denim. And yeah, I am on the bike a lot and the stretch really does help out with movement and flexibility.
@@CeeAreDee For newbies definitely a step into the world of raw and selvedge. I see what you mean now! Keep up the good vids :)
I’ve been into the raw denim thing for quite some time - since I bought my first Nudie Regular Ralph’s back in 2001 or so. I’ve had an array of beautifully made jeans, and I still love unsanforised 100% cotton denim jeans. But as a super active person who rides bikes, runs, climbs, and values mobility, yet also a total denim head , I have been conflicted. So far the only stretch denim that I will wear - being a pigheaded denim head - is oni’s stretch denim. It’s quite heavy still, it’s even a little bit slubby, but it’s got some ease that allows mobility in a way that 100% cotton can never match. The fades are beautiful, they’re strong and don’t blow out. Point is, there is denim, and then there is quality denim - stretch or otherwise, and if you value and need mobility - there are a few quality options out there
@@edemaye3328 I might buy a pair of N&F stretch just to check it out.. People seem to like em, and the elastane is not in the indigo warp so it fades normally. You learn something new every day lol
@@carlwest5936 did you end up liking them?
how should I wash stonewash denim?
inside out, 40 degrees, normal wash. Easy
@@CeeAreDee Thanks
Hey, they are good enough for James Bond !
After a year breaking in a pair of slim 21oz Iron Hearts, I’ve picked up the same pair but in IH’s new stretch 21oz. Unless you are a complete purist, they’re a no-brainier. If you have children, ride a bike or spend a lot of time at a desk, I’d say they’re a much better bet. I figured that IH are already built with poly cotton stitching, so….
Woohoo well said on another myth!
Although I love that benzak has a slogan on T-shirt saying “we don’t wear stretch jeans”, I knew well from my pair of stretch uniqlo jeans that stretch jeans could fade (maybe not as much but non-stretch does.) (that pair is fake selvedge tho). The only thing I am not sure is the durability. (While most of us are not miners now...)
I also feel that, the denim world is, beyond a closed community, an opportunity thru which to appreciate some of the old school qualities of clothing that could be lost in the overwhelming present fashion world, which do not necessarily exclude good qualities brought by new techs and styles.
btw I got the N&F stretch selvedge as entry pair for raw denim as well. I am also kinda new in denim world so we'll see how it goes.
Haha, I have got no end of shit from Lenn, the founder of Benzak for this video 😂. I keep telling him tho, do a stretch pair and see how it goes. He will come around.
If I'm spending money on 10 year old bourbon, I don't mix it with Coke. Stretch denim is good on hotter days and my Tommy Hillfinger & Levi's 541 stretch jeans are nice for warmer weather bc I can wash them normally once a week. Also, button fly on stretch jeans is a bad mix.
Stone Washed, stretch denim… What’s next, dude? Maybe H&M skinny jeans?
Could be. If there’s something worth saying about them.
I threw you up on the big TV so mer brother could watch, he can't stop laughing. Like NY decriminalized fun, but still you is hysterics brox. :)
You have this attraction to make people think about something once or twice. Actually this is my third time thinking about stretch raw denim after seeing your video. But It is still so far and so good with 100% Japanese denim for me.
By they way, I am from southeast asia and most of us would never want to go down below 16 or 18 oz even with our hot and moisture weather throughout the year.
What does it feel like for you to wear some heavy weight denim in your hot weather?
Forgot I was watching a video about jeans I was so focused on the bike lol
When you find the DHL notification in your letter box today, you don't need to show up at the post office/'Kiosk' the same day. If they find your parcel the next day after 15 pm, you'll be happy ... Sad but true
Haha. It had been in the postbox for about 2 days. Tend to leave that kinda thing there or it gets swallowed in the chaos of my flat 😂
Stonewashed is definitely not me but a small amount of stretch is fine.
Yes, our needs do change! Totally agree on that.... reminds me of a chat with a good friend on how we felt drifting a bit from strictly getting sick fades to being able to wear high quality selvedge jeans and avoiding fading them on purpose. Having more versatility while being able to dress them from informal to business casual.....Stretchy is also OK if it's for *you*....it's not like you gonna burn in hell if you don't believe in Jesus 😅
Thanks for the good shit!
haha, youre welcome mate!
I swear stretch is the worst trend since the whole tidepod craze.
It has a weird shine to it and caused my Levi's to have these micro spiderwebbed crinkles .
In fact avoiding stretch is what got me into denimhead culture.
ID on the shirt
The only thing that keeps echoing in my mind is a pair of free IH jeans because some1 had them in spare, like what the actual fuck... what a lucky bastard you are!! 👍🏻
Hopefully I’ll earn them.
From a repairing standpoint the stretch jeans are waaaaaaaaaay worse then 100% cotton.
That's true I think. But then again, they dont need repaired as often.
@@CeeAreDee trueee. I work at Denham as a repair artist in the Netherlands and people here bike a lot. The friction of the saddle and the jeans kinda burns the elastane up. Way faster then 100% cotton. But yet again only if you have a bike culture like they do in the Netherlands :p
Really? I’ve found the opposite. My stretch jeans last way longer in the crotch than my non stretch. And I’m on the bike all the time. That strain getting on and off kills the crotch super quick.
Here's some comment engagement
Appreciate it.
If a selvedge-raw-denim-fabric maker is adding stretch is like self-nailing ones coffin. Blasphemia is another way to name it. Stretch = the jeans are 1 size larger by the end of the year, and 2 sizes larger the year after. Sure, that is what we need. Men have no idea about good jeans anyway. They simply don't know the enlightment of wearing proper high waist mom-- or wide leg jeans (with 30+cm leg opening). It is a delight conceiled from the men section. Once you try that, you laugh about all those pointy butts squeezed into uncomfortable low rise men slim-fit jeans that need to be kept up with a belt.
I wouldn‘t agree a 100% on the high waist. Being blessed with a bloated belly, the Levi‘s 501 90s is the most comfortable jean I‘ve ever had. It might not look super sexy, but it looks sophisticated.
2% stretch max
From what Bahzad told me, different stretch fibers have very different characteristics. 2% of one would be like 5% of another. But yeah, not too much.
Think the problem with stretch is more that it puts a lot of plastic/rubber into the environment (and loads of it) when washing it. It is less about raw denim philosophy niche. I'd advice against shedding plastic around the planet, just because it doesn't serve the creatures on the planet.
Thanks for the advice bud
I don't think the growing and processing of cotton is particularly environmentally friendly either. And I think in the scheme of things there's not that plastic in a pair of stretch Jeans. 1% or 2%?
There's probably more in the packaging they come in.
With all respect
I live in nudie jeans love the stretch
I find my selvage jeans hard to wear after nudies
Why don't you clean your glasses before filming the video?
Cause then you wouldn't have anything to ask.
I can't believe there's a 'denim community'
I think communities spring up around any commonly shared interest.
What's even the point of spending so much money and buying selvedge, if you're going to wear plastic garbage like all the cheap jeans anyway?
Nope.
Yeah. You know you want to.