How to prep your KLR for an ADV- Carb basics part 1
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- As we prep this GEN 1 KLR, we start with the first system, fuel. So, we inspect the tank, and carburetor. We disassemble the carb, and inspect it in preparation for cleaning and re-assembling. This is a basic video for the beginner, to help explain the different parts of a carburetor, and what needs to be disassembled and cleaned prior to a big trip. New intro provided by the legendary Halfthrottle.
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8 years later your video still help peoples. Thank you so much
You rock and teaching us NEWBIES....I will defiantly be using this video soon
Thanks buddy, sometimes people assume that everyone knows this stuff, and they're just starting to get into motorcycle riding, and need to figure out why their older bike is having troubles, but don't know even where to start. It's like me trying to learn how to edit video's I need to start at ground zero, and tell people to just pretend I know nothing, which is true ;)
Sorry if someone has posted this in the comments already. Your video is also helpful, and this is the most detailed cleaning of a CVK 40 I have found yet: "CVK40 Carb Overhaul video #1" is the start. Tom Schmitz is also on the KLR 650 Owners FB group, his UA-cam name is Souperdoo. UA-cam won't let me paste the link or even the title of it in here.
thanks for sharing Rob, its too bad YT wont let us post links to helpful videos to share the knowledge around with!
I wish I would have seen this video yesterday when I had to take the carb off after work in the parking lot and had no idea what I was looking at but I know how to take it off because of other videos. thank you for explaining the parts now I can clean it properly before it leaves me stranded again
We love-love-love your videos! This is fantastic information. Wish we would have had this info about six months ago when we got our DR650. It was super lean from the factory and ran horribly to say the least. Ran so bad, it was hard to believe Suzuki would put out a product like that. Had to learn about carburetors the hard way, how they work, jet kits,... This would have made it so much easier. Had to drill a sheet metal screw into the cap over the mixture screw like you mention to pull it out. Mixture screw was one turn out--same as you guessed for this one. By the way, ended up giving up on the stock Mikuni BST40 and going with a pumper carb! Thanks for your videos!
Man... it's such a bummer trying to figure stuff out with little information..... good job!!! How has the pumper carb worked out for you??
MrDuhfactor
We should get it by Wednesday. It's a Keihin FCR 39mm off a Yamaha YZF 450 quad. MX Rob modifies and jets used ones to work with the DR650. Check him out at www.mxrob.com Thanks for asking!
Nicely done!! Little surprised you opened the float bowl before cleaning the outside. :D
Nothing like a Holley double pumper huh!
Oh, the good Ol' days... Holly double pumpers...... Had two of them on my big block chevelle back in the day ;)
Dang, man, that carb is filthy. There's going to be some real quality time with a can of carb cleaner in that bike's future. As always, I enjoy getting a knowledgeable look into the inner workings of a bike. It was damn well shot too.
It's all good until that first time you get carb cleaner deflecting into your eye... eesh...
Good tutorial! If the bike has been sitting a long time it may be hard to get all of the crud out of the tiny passages with just spray carb. cleaner. I have found that very hot water or steam cleaner works well to dissolve varnish.
Very good suggestion buddy, absolutely true :)
Nice carb setup, very simple!
Great tutorial. Makes me wanna get a normally aspirated bike again. I would never have thought just a few years ago both of my bikes would now be injected.
Fuel injection is sure nice, as long as the fuel and ignition maps are good. Took me a bit to get my 990 dialed in, but even now it's not as soft with throttle transitions as a Vacuum controlled carb ;(
Absolutely. The 250 doesn't make much difference but the V Strom is pretty snatchy off idle. There is a little piece of electronics that is supposed to help. It's on my list.
Do you know if TUNE ECU software (free) works on your bike??
I'll look it up. Supposedly the V Strom and some BMW's have a lean map in the lower gears. Thanks for the tip.
Great video! Wish you'd find this series 6 weeks ago!
Ultrasonic baths are aweome for can cleaning! They com out like new! 😉
Absolutely brother!! Since I moved, all of my good shop stuff, especially cleaning stuff, is packed away until I build the new place. Hopefully by next summer!!
great video on how a carb works. Stay safe
Awesome stuff! Thanks for walking us through this.
Hey buddy!!! Hopefully we'll get this 1st gen bike running as good as your someday!!!
It has almost the same card as my old KZ750 has . It has 4 and I had a fun time with them . Great video .
Wow... one is plenty, 4 can be a nightmare :) good job :)
Great video bro! Taught me a lot!!!! I suck at carbs!
Ahhh.... just now used to the wonder of fuel injection.... It's nice isn't it?
MrDuhfactor sorta why I went that direction.
You Duh man to watch! Thanks for another great tutorial. Always learning something from your videos.
Ahh thanks buddy!!! Hope to see you son dude!!
Heading out tomorrow after work for the Great State of Utah! Excited and nervous like a stallion ready for his first race.
Can't wait to see you for a bit. I'm going to Tenn. to ride with my Dad, brother, and son next week, but I want to at least meet you in person for just a few if that's o.k!
That would not only be awesome but a huge honor to meet you. Hope it works out! If not, maybe I'll get back down next year. Hope you plan to upload more family video like last time? Super good times, your family get together. You're a lucky man!
that is why my cab leaks! I need a new tip thing. Mine looks fine but I could imagine it would be hard to notice if it has been compressed a bit
This is the Carb on my 93 KLR650. Thanks for the video. I have fuel making its way into the air box! Then leaking out of box onto the bike (actually caught on fire!). I rebuilt Carb with a rebuild carb kit, but its doing the same thing. No leaks at the bowl or gasket, no overflow on the overflow tube. Looks like this video is 5 years old, but any suggestions?
Wow! Thats crazy! That usually means the float is not closing the needle and seat fully, or the needle and seat are worn and not sealing when the float is lifted up as the fuel fills the bowl, then over spills into the carb throat into the airboot through the needle tube. If you can, see if your needle or needle and seat are replaceable.
Does part 2 exist? This is a great tutorial.
Here's the playlist of everything we did on that bike buddy:
ua-cam.com/users/MrDuhfactorplaylists?shelf_id=8&view=50&sort=dd
Great video MrD! Maybe you can enhance that KLR's tiny shaft? Get some dangley dangleys on it too like you did with the Widow!
Great stuff once again, mi amigo! That bike has been so abused... for me they were sins of omission... I didn't even know what an air filter was when I had her. :)
It's all good Homeslice.... She's lucky to have you rescue her from the hot southern sun ;)
My man! Very nice carb lesson. How does altitude play a role in jets? Say you jet for 5-7k feet what is the maximum altitude change that the bike will run at above or below those numbers. I ask this because we are bringing Stace's bike which is jetted for 7-9k down to St.George and I don't think it will run at 2k feet there. If we get it rejetted for 5-7 like Xena is will she be ok at 2k feet? Xena runs like a friggin champ down there when we were out earlier this year.
ColoradoDualSport I can help here I suspect. I believe from the videos I have seen that Ms. Stacy is enjoying the pleasure of the XT-225. I think the XT-225 is one of the most underappreciated DP bikes on the planet. I had one that I rode up in Alasaka, Yukon, BC and NWT in 2008 and I loved it. I have rode one 2 up to the top of Mt. Bross, over 14k ASL, several times. It’s a great machine and I suggest you checkout XT225.COM for come good info.
Anyway, the Serrow is equipped with a CV carb, not unlike the KiLleR. One of the nice things about CV carbs is that they auto compensate for changes in altitude on the needle circuit. This is because as less dense air is drawn in with gain in altitude the slide will lift a little less, which in turn lowers the needle the same amount, resulting in near perfect altitude compensation on the needle circuit. So for riding in St. George you need to do nothing to the needle if it is running ok in CO on the needle. This is, as the video person stated, the 1/4 to ¾’s throttle range.
The bad news is the other carb circuits do not auto compensate.
First the main jet. Its fuel air mixture is a result of bias of main air jet to main fuel jet ratio minus changes in float height as a direct function of venturi pressure. There are some Reynolds Number functions for the friction for flow in the internal passageways, but they can be ignored. Since there is roughly 3% change in air density with every 1k feet of altitude above sea level, you will need a change your main jet to address the density delta in from where you are riding to where you will be riding. That 3% is not directly of jet number because fuel flow as a function of jet size is an inverse square function. So, if 130 is fine a sea level, at 14k ASL which has almost 40% less air coming in you do not use jet number 40% smaller than 130 because fuel flow is not a linear function of jet size. Bottom line; the main jetting that will work on Webster Pass outside Montezuma, CO will not work as well in Moab or St. George. My considerable direct experience with the XT225 is that the stock 130 main will work to about 5k ASL. Between 6k to 8K ASL I run a 125 main. When I roll into Breck I install a 122 main jet and that pulls clean all the way up and over 14k.
Now the pilot. The stock bias between the pilot air jet and pilot fuel jet is about perfect for a wide range of conditions. You should not have to change slow speed jet, but make sure the jet is clean as are the passageways every time the carb comes off!! This means completely removing the fuel mixture screw, spraying carb cleaner thru it and blowing compressed air afterwards. If you have any doubts, strip all rubber, plastic, fiber and nylon off the carb body and soak it in cold soak cleaner for about a hour. I have found that 2.5 turns out at sea level is great for fast warm up and cooler running temps up to about 5k ASL. From there I might dial it back to the 2.0 range. Get an extended fuel mixture screw so you can adjust it with gloves on. From 10k to 14k I do 1 ¾ or a little less.
If you have any questions on how to do this lemme know.
Stephen Harris Excellent explanation Stephen, and excellent advice. Well written :)
Holly space-balls batman...I got dizzy reading that - must not be used to the air in higher elevations! =0)
Stephen Harris Great explination! The problem we have is that her bike doesn't like to run down here in Denver (aprox 5k feet). However when we start riding we are normally at about 8k and the bike starts and idles fine to warm up. I think we over compensated having the bike jetted for 7-9k and should have had it set up for 5-7k. I didn't realize that the carb was a CV like my DRZ and would auto compensate. I will be the first to say that CV cards are amazing in places like CO where altitude changes are as common as elk in Estas Park. (for those not from CO there are ALWAYS elk there). So I think the lesson learned here is to get the bike rejetted for 5-7k (mind you I won't be doing this myself) and from there going down to 2k - 3k feet in St.George won't be a problem and when we come home her bike should run fine down in Denver as well as up to 10k ish with the CV carb auto compensating. We may ride a bit above 10k feet at times, but we don't normally hit 13k but once or twice a year and would expect a power loss going that high. Xena seems to deal extremely well with extreme altitude changes. She always starts up and idles perfectly. The same can't be said for the XT225. Down in denver she needs to be run through the gears once before she'll idle to warm up.
ColoradoDualSport If the bike runs poorly at 5k, but as you gain altitude it starts to run better, then that is a common sign that it is too lean. The reason is simple; a threshold too lean fuel air mixture at 5k is causes poor running. When you go up to 8k you now have apprx 10% less intake density. That means you need 10% less fuel for the air going into the motor. The mixture, which is threshold too lean at 5k, is now a threshold stoichiometric mixture and she pulls clean.
CV cabs only auto compensate on the needle, which is from ¼ to ¾ throttle opening. For the pilot, slide cutaway and main circuits you have to make manual adjustments.
Working on the XT 225 fuel system is very simple, but if you want to pay someone to do it should not be expensive. It takes me less than ½ hour to rejet a XT225. I would argue for the experience of doing it yourself as you will then be a more self sufficient motorcyclist, but I’ll admit my bias on the issue.
There are two kinds of power loss at 13k. One is inherent in the ambient air density and is unavoidable unless you are using variable forced induction. An example would be variable speed supercharging or variable wastegated turbo charging. This is about 35% power loss. Additionally, but more commonly what people notice is; there is power loss from incorrect fuel air mixture. A too rich fuel air mixture causes power loss from a little to a making the bike almost unrideable depending on how far off it is.
Your DrZ400 (I think that is what you are riding from the videos) runs better across the altitude spectrum because it is liquid cooled and does not experience the wide ranges of operating temps that the air cooled XT225 does. Intake air temp has a big effect on density, which as we saw, has a big effect on the resulting fuel air mixture and thence power. Ever notice how your bike seems to pull harder than normal on the first cold morning of the late fall? That is because the air going into the motor is cooler than during the summer doldrums. The cooler air is more dense and this the motor make marginally a little more power. This is especially noticeable on stock machines which are jetted lean from the factory anyway.
After my exhaust upgrade, I bought a re-jet kit for the carb and have been a little timid to pull the carb off the bike to redo the jets. This vid helped out tremendously, but curious about this washer thing you speak of?
oh and forgot to ask; when the diaphragm is off - does it need to soak in warm water so it doesn't shrink? Read on a forum that it was recommended but wanted to throw the question out there.
DirtHog365 , The washer trick is used to raise the needle a bit, richening the mid range throttle. You new fancy jet kit may come with a new needle, and a suggested clip position, that is adjustable. Let me know once you open the kit, and I'll help you out. I don't understand the need for keeping the diaphragm in soapy water while it's not in the carb, the diaphragm is vented directly to atmosphere anyway. Maybe it will shrink if left out of the carb body for a while, don't know, I've never had trouble with it.
Thank-you sir, yes it does come with a new needle and suggested clip position. Had been reading of people doing the rejet without removing the carb - but don't feel comfortable doing it that way. I will let ya know what or if I run into anything. :)
CAN ... NOT ... GET ... EEE ... NUFF !!!
Saved to KLR playlist (I wish this was a DR650).
My 2015 KLR has a lot of decel popping, after the previous owner added a Lexx muffler, couple years ago, without changing anything in the carb. What's your opinion on what it needs? Jets? 22cent mod? Screw adjustment? I've heard many different opinions and not sure what to believe.
Did you ever find a solution to this? :)
Swimmerchamber rare leeks... Myn has leaked 2 Times couse of this Ring xD well somtimes Things happens which are Not Common xD nice vid
Great carb video I like the way you present and explain things. when you do the clean up would you do a rebuild kit or just uruse the old parts. My 350 Yamaha raptor uses a simauler style and after 6 years I did a kit.
Good questions bud, I will re-use parts 90% of the time, and just spend copious amounts of time cleaning. If I have trouble with a leaking needle and seat or something, I do a kit. :)
Man, talk about a total insult for the poor KLR. "It's got this little shaft"
Did you ever get a look at "Twin headlight Ernie clutch arm mod"? The reason I ask is I've got one on hand if you'd like measurements if you'd like to try your hand at making one.
ZetaTango Ha Ha!! I haven't had a chance to look that up yet, but I definitely plan to, just been slammed lately. I would love to get some measurements form you once I figure out what I should know and understand first. Keep around for me, K?? THanks my man!!
that's weird most carbs just have return springs on them. HOLY HELL THAT CARB IS HUGE!!! no wonder why KLRs are so damn heavy.. there is no reason for that carb to be so huge.. I'm thinking Mikuni swap someday.
Mikuni's are good carbs, I'm assuming your referring to the models that don't use diaphragms? Peggy has two 33 mm Mikuni's, both with vacuum controlled slides, and are as large as the KLR carb, but there's two of them. The trade off for weight/size is that you get the advantage of the diaphragm, which is a big bonus on a big bore 4 stroke for off idle power and torque, especially if one is ham fisted and likes to crack the throttle open and closed and open again, it softens all that up nicely.
MrDuhfactor
we used to have a set for an old Triumph that came with a race bike but look at the one on my facebook if you can see it. The Yamaha in my pics has one.. I think its a 36 or 38mm. 38 is a typical upgrade for those.
I'll check it out my man.....
MrDuhfactor
yeah if you want feel free to give your guess :P I'm keeping it under wraps for right now other than letting people see it.. Most people don't know what it is, only Shawn Smoak has figured it out... mainly because he used to have one. I'm heading up to my grandma's on saturday so hopefully we will get the vin verified and finally figure out what model it is exactly and if I can make it street legal or not. If I lived at her house I'd be able to ride it (logging roads) either way but down here there's very little offroad access.