@@razenby How did you diagnose the very first failure? That would have been what I was missing in the video. I want general knowledge for diagnosing such an issue, not board or part specific knowledge. For example: How to diagnose if the output is pulled down due to a too high load? Or when a smoothing cap is too old? Or a diode is broken? The feedback-loop has some issue? Resistor drift? Transformer windings shorted or some other issue? There are so many interesting things to consider. Your video is useful for anyone with that specific issue. I just hoped to get more of the diagnostic part.
Hi magicsmoke & everyone I have a Dyson washing machine with faded and disappeared letters and numbers on the PCB contract panel, some letters and numbers are visible, I think it has ribbon connectors, can someone help me with advice & tips so all the letters and numbers are visible again, thankyou in advance. Great video thankyou.
First unplug and replug any ribbon cables. In a damp environment the tin on the contacts oxidizes. Contacts fail to make contact. Also suspect the display itself. Some displays do not do well in damp or vibration conditions. It may be that the display itself has failed. Carefully Inspect the qualilty of the solder joints with an eye glass. I see Dyson products as a an overwhelming victory of style over content.....
Nope. There are only a couple of ancillary components. I have changed hundreds, maybe thousands and that fixed the problem. If you are servicing and giving a warranty then change the LNK chip even if it still working as it wont be for very long. They are like a virus spread thinly over the whole consumer electronics market. Occasionally crappy buck inductors but they usually fizz or go open-circuit then you replace both the inductor and the LNK. You can check that there is no overload of the DC output by connecting a power source to make sure the DC load is in spec. i.e. no short on the off-line LV DC side.,
I love the video. I have been googling all day and finally found your video. My washer-dryer (9-year-old Smeg APWD126 has the same pcb but I suspect a blown diode ( the one between the blue cylinder thingy and the yellow thingy. ( I'm not an electrical engineer ). I am pretty sure this is the problem as my better half was being impatient with 1 minute to end of cycle she turned the control knob to off. Instant power off. No dispaly and nothing working. I have the pcb out and the diode is frazzled on the end where the grey band would have been. My problem is that I can not identify the diode by the remaining numbers. Could you suggest a way forward? I am ok at soldering but don't want to buy a different diode that causes another problem. i.e house burning down. I was about to give up and head off to Currys to buy a new one but I really hate waste. Kind regards,
Thanks. If the diode has blown (should get approx 0.6V DC with the black probe on hr bar end and the red on the other. If the diode has blown (unusual) then you need a new chip as that will be gone too. Basically change what I change and it will most likely work.
@@razenby Wow, thanks for the super fast reply. Just been watching your LED repair video. You are very entertaining and a great help. How do I identify the diode that is partially blackened and gone slightly fuzzy looking? I can not see many numbers. I have searched high and low for a circuit diagram but no joy. I have been looking very closely at your video trying to capture some numbers but no luck there either. Would it be the same as the other 2 that are nearby?
Love your videos, very informative. Could you please add your latest email here please. Been trying to get hold of you ref obtaining a replacement heating element for Bosch dishwasher repair you've previously posted. if you still have any. Mines been in bits on the kitchen floor for a couple of weeks and I don't wanna waste £100 on replacing whole part if you still have just the element I can replace. Thank you Jeremy
Hi, I have changed the TNY268PN and the 1N4007 diode but still no joy. On watching another of your excellent videos I decided to inspect the board ( which I should have done at the beginning ) with a powerful eyeglass. I noticed a resistor cracked. Unsoldered it and it fell apart. I find it a little difficult to identify. Does the actual body colour matter? This one is grey. The rings look red / black / brown / gold. Does this sound right? In your video of the NEFF board, the resistor in question is the one nearest the blue high voltage capacitor and the TNY268PN chip. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I am not going to give up ion this job.
On a 4 Band resistor red / black / brown / gold is 120 Ohms 5% . Note if you have 5 bands than the penultimate one is the multiplier (On low value power supply current sense resistors silver = x 0.01 or gold = x 0.1) You need to check everything very carefully. Unfortunately I don't have a board or a circuit schematic on hand. I am curious what the 120 Ohm resistor is for it seems an odd thing to have in the power supply side.
@@razenby Hi, Thank you for replying. The resistor has 4 bands. I said the first was red but could be brown. ( Brown , Black , Brown , Gold ) Difficult to say. The damaged resistor is wirewound. Do you know where I could purchase a new one or is there an alternative? Do you have an email so that I could send you a picture for your opinion? The TNY268PN had ruptured along one side.
@@razenby It works again. I would just like to thank you for all of your assistance. A replaced TNY268PN and a resistor and all is well. Saved me forking out for a new washer dryer. You are a star.
New to the channel would like to learn how to repair pc boards for washer and dryer. I'm located in the USA and have 2 machine with no power after power surge
Hi, very entertaining and edulcation video, thanks. Trying to follow your advice for a Neff V5340X2GB/06 washer dryer but Neff's spare parts website points me at what looks like a totally different looking "operating module": www.neff-home.com/uk/shop-productlist/00665672. It says this is a replacement for the 00661846 and 00440430 spare parts. Haven't yet opened up the machine to see which one I've got. Before I do so, do you know whether I will have the same module as the one that features in your video. The PCB in question looks to cost about £300, so resoldering the chip looks like a wortwhile try before going down that route. I've the same symptoms: no power evident from the machine, and the external power/fuse is not the fault. Thanks for any advice you can offer.
I just looked up V5340X2GB/06 and it seems that this is a later machine. Naff have probably relocated main control board somewhere away from condensation and motor brush dust. It looks to me as the board on the site link above has the functions of display and power switch only that is driven by a main controller located elsewhere in the machine. Does you board look like the one in this video?
@@razenby hi. Thanks for taking the time to look it up and reply. I actually opened the machine yesterday and found that the control board is the same as I showed you. I pulled it out. Last night I discovered there is a separate power module in the machine. I was planning on pulling that out and seeing if it had the same sort of arrangement as the board in your video. I'm guessing that this is sending 5v or something to the control module. I did establish that there was continuity between the live mains plug and the power line into the control module. At the time I thought this meant the control module was at fault. But I'm not confident about that logic now. What do you think. I will pull out the power module as a next step.
Glad to see your still posting!
Thanks. I have a camera full of videos that need uploading. Lock down has been very busy.
I love the way you explain things, enjoyed watching thank you....
Thanks.
Hopefully you can fix the machine you got from me in Devon. Such a waste to throw things out when they can be fixed.
Thanks. Watch this space!!
I like the overall video, but the diagnostic part was: "I know these fail, so I replace it based on that". That was it.
I haven't seen any other failures on this controller other than the so a detailed diagnostic is virtually pointless and you cant please everyone. .
@@razenby How did you diagnose the very first failure? That would have been what I was missing in the video. I want general knowledge for diagnosing such an issue, not board or part specific knowledge.
For example: How to diagnose if the output is pulled down due to a too high load? Or when a smoothing cap is too old? Or a diode is broken? The feedback-loop has some issue? Resistor drift? Transformer windings shorted or some other issue? There are so many interesting things to consider.
Your video is useful for anyone with that specific issue. I just hoped to get more of the diagnostic part.
Hi magicsmoke & everyone I have a Dyson washing machine with faded and disappeared letters and numbers on the PCB contract panel, some letters and numbers are visible, I think it has ribbon connectors, can someone help me with advice & tips so all the letters and numbers are visible again, thankyou in advance. Great video thankyou.
First unplug and replug any ribbon cables. In a damp environment the tin on the contacts oxidizes. Contacts fail to make contact. Also suspect the display itself. Some displays do not do well in damp or vibration conditions. It may be that the display itself has failed. Carefully Inspect the qualilty of the solder joints with an eye glass. I see Dyson products as a an overwhelming victory of style over content.....
@Razenby I really appreciate your kind advice thankyou so much.
Is there any way of checking the LNK power control chip in circuit to prove it is faulty before blindly changing it?
Nope. There are only a couple of ancillary components. I have changed hundreds, maybe thousands and that fixed the problem. If you are servicing and giving a warranty then change the LNK chip even if it still working as it wont be for very long. They are like a virus spread thinly over the whole consumer electronics market. Occasionally crappy buck inductors but they usually fizz or go open-circuit then you replace both the inductor and the LNK. You can check that there is no overload of the DC output by connecting a power source to make sure the DC load is in spec. i.e. no short on the off-line LV DC side.,
I love the video. I have been googling all day and finally found your video. My washer-dryer (9-year-old Smeg APWD126 has the same pcb but I suspect a blown diode ( the one between the blue cylinder thingy and the yellow thingy. ( I'm not an electrical engineer ). I am pretty sure this is the problem as my better half was being impatient with 1 minute to end of cycle she turned the control knob to off. Instant power off. No dispaly and nothing working. I have the pcb out and the diode is frazzled on the end where the grey band would have been. My problem is that I can not identify the diode by the remaining numbers. Could you suggest a way forward? I am ok at soldering but don't want to buy a different diode that causes another problem. i.e house burning down. I was about to give up and head off to Currys to buy a new one but I really hate waste. Kind regards,
Thanks. If the diode has blown (should get approx 0.6V DC with the black probe on hr bar end and the red on the other. If the diode has blown (unusual) then you need a new chip as that will be gone too. Basically change what I change and it will most likely work.
@@razenby Wow, thanks for the super fast reply. Just been watching your LED repair video. You are very entertaining and a great help. How do I identify the diode that is partially blackened and gone slightly fuzzy looking? I can not see many numbers. I have searched high and low for a circuit diagram but no joy. I have been looking very closely at your video trying to capture some numbers but no luck there either. Would it be the same as the other 2 that are nearby?
@@marcuswey1879 1N1004 it is a 1A 1000V Silicone Rectifier Diode. Very common.
Where's part two with the display repair?
On the channel.
Love your videos, very informative. Could you please add your latest email here please. Been trying to get hold of you ref obtaining a replacement heating element for Bosch dishwasher repair you've previously posted. if you still have any. Mines been in bits on the kitchen floor for a couple of weeks and I don't wanna waste £100 on replacing whole part if you still have just the element I can replace. Thank you Jeremy
ark.mail@gmx.com
Would you be able to repair one of these for us ,if I post it and pay you.I just don’t have the right tools and parts!
Regards
Victor
what fault is it showing?
@@razenby not power.not turning on
I have actually tried again today and is showing error code E01
Hi,
I have changed the TNY268PN and the 1N4007 diode but still no joy. On watching another of your excellent videos I decided to inspect the board ( which I should have done at the beginning ) with a powerful eyeglass. I noticed a resistor cracked. Unsoldered it and it fell apart.
I find it a little difficult to identify. Does the actual body colour matter? This one is grey. The rings look red / black / brown / gold. Does this sound right?
In your video of the NEFF board, the resistor in question is the one nearest the blue high voltage capacitor and the TNY268PN chip. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I am not going to give up ion this job.
On a 4 Band resistor red / black / brown / gold is 120 Ohms 5% . Note if you have 5 bands than the penultimate one is the multiplier (On low value power supply current sense resistors silver = x 0.01 or gold = x 0.1) You need to check everything very carefully. Unfortunately I don't have a board or a circuit schematic on hand. I am curious what the 120 Ohm resistor is for it seems an odd thing to have in the power supply side.
@@razenby
Hi, Thank you for replying. The resistor has 4 bands. I said the first was red but could be brown. ( Brown , Black , Brown , Gold ) Difficult to say. The damaged resistor is wirewound. Do you know where I could purchase a new one or is there an alternative? Do you have an email so that I could send you a picture for your opinion?
The TNY268PN had ruptured along one side.
@@marcuswey1879 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-100-ohm-3-W-Wire-wound-resistor-3W-100R-100ohm-axial-power-res-r/303165731094?hash=item469615f116:g:JQgAAOSwPgxVRfMf
@@razenby
It works again.
I would just like to thank you for all of your assistance. A replaced TNY268PN and a resistor and all is well. Saved me forking out for a new washer dryer.
You are a star.
Hi - I have a control board thats gone on my Neff washing machine V4380X0GB/13 Would you be able to repair it please?
Which model is it?
New to the channel would like to learn how to repair pc boards for washer and dryer. I'm located in the USA and have 2 machine with no power after power surge
Check the power conversion chip and the series power resistor if fitted. It repairs most controllers with no power. Good luck.
Why is nobody commenting on the crack on the PCB?
I didn't see one!! Need new glasses.
Hi, very entertaining and edulcation video, thanks. Trying to follow your advice for a Neff V5340X2GB/06 washer dryer but Neff's spare parts website points me at what looks like a totally different looking "operating module": www.neff-home.com/uk/shop-productlist/00665672. It says this is a replacement for the 00661846 and 00440430 spare parts. Haven't yet opened up the machine to see which one I've got. Before I do so, do you know whether I will have the same module as the one that features in your video. The PCB in question looks to cost about £300, so resoldering the chip looks like a wortwhile try before going down that route. I've the same symptoms: no power evident from the machine, and the external power/fuse is not the fault. Thanks for any advice you can offer.
I just looked up V5340X2GB/06 and it seems that this is a later machine. Naff have probably relocated main control board somewhere away from condensation and motor brush dust. It looks to me as the board on the site link above has the functions of display and power switch only that is driven by a main controller located elsewhere in the machine. Does you board look like the one in this video?
@@razenby hi. Thanks for taking the time to look it up and reply. I actually opened the machine yesterday and found that the control board is the same as I showed you. I pulled it out. Last night I discovered there is a separate power module in the machine. I was planning on pulling that out and seeing if it had the same sort of arrangement as the board in your video. I'm guessing that this is sending 5v or something to the control module. I did establish that there was continuity between the live mains plug and the power line into the control module. At the time I thought this meant the control module was at fault. But I'm not confident about that logic now. What do you think. I will pull out the power module as a next step.