That’s useful, thank you. The rivet was new to me as an accomplished DIY enthusiast. Your videos are very handy so keep posting and ignore the keyboard warriors.
Is the build up of moss on the roof a future problem? And is this common on genuine slate vs cement fiber slate? In my area in Canada this condition only occurs on roofs that are in close proximity to overhanging trees and never completely dries. This is combated by installing a strip of zinc at the top of the roof. Just an inch or so exposed below the ridge cap shingles. Also, I haven't found a supplier of slaters (slators?) tools here. I am interested in conserving heritage properties/farms or just simply to provide a repair service for slate roofs. In the past , many people I know of gave up trying to find a company that does this kind of work and had the entire slate roof stripped and replaced with asphalt shingles. I find that to be a terrible loss to the value of the property, unless another "lifetime" roofing product is used. Any suggestions?
Great video and top repair, many thanks for sharing. In a tricky spot have you ever used any adhesive? I've been recommended Polyether but think there are other options.
You may need to strengthen roof for additional weight. If in doubt speak to a structural engineer or your local authority building control officer. Thanks for watching.
Anyone can say that I found the broken tile by following the water leak. Isn't it somewhat difficult to detect it when the water flows further down? What is overlapping distance between slates?
The video wasn't to show how to detect a leak but how to replace a broken slate. The way slates are lapped, even with a cracked slate it shouldn't leak. As for lap, it depends on the pitch. These slates are 110mm lap for 25 - 30 degree pitch and 100mm lap for 30 - 35 degree pitch I think. Hope that helps. Hope that helps.
I've just had some of my 1980's fibre cement slates replaced. At the insistence of the roofer they were tested for asbestos - they contained chrysotile. If your slates look anything like the ones in this video, there is a high probability of them containing asbestos. Don't take a chance, get a sample tested to be sure.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Thank you for the really informative videos and even replying to comments like this one. To be honest, I was shocked. I had no idea that common cement fibre slates could even contain asbestos and it was prevalent in slates into the eighties. It's not something to be overly concerned with, as chrysotile is considered the least worst asbestos! But I feel its an issue that diy'ers should be made aware of. Thanks again.
It isn't free to float around when it's in slate form. The whole thing is incredibly overblown and a great example of scare tactics comparing one slate removal to the lifetimes worth of breathing fine asbestos dust in industry workers
Have you ever dealt with Ayara Fibre cement tiles from SCG? they use 1.25" self cutting screws into steel laths. How would you go about replacing a single tile in this case, when the idiots that installed the original tiles did not use the screw hole locations? The theory is very similar to what you are doing, you are supposed to take a new tile that has pre marked screw locations, you use this as a template to locate the position of the screws that hold the broken tile. Then you need to drill through the upper tile to locate the screw heads (that should be in the position pre marked on the underlying tile, then unscrew the tile, slide it out, replace with a new one. Refit the upper tile and screw them down and seal the drilled hole with a tile filler paste. The problem that arises is when idiots do not use the pre marked locations for the original screws. You use your template, drill out the top tile with a 10mm drill and surprise surprise, there are no screws where they should have been because the anus of a roofer has just drilled them into some other random location. The only way I can think that this could be repaired would be to get up and remove the ridge tiles then strip the roof back all the way to the broken tile! A crazy expensive time consuming shit of a job. Any other suggestions? Bare in mind, you cannot use a slate ripper on these type of screws. (at least I think you cannot) And just to make life even more fun, these Ayara tiles weigh about 2-3kgs each, they are huge and are generally secured by 2 or 3 screws.
Sorry for late reply. I haven't heard of that or seen it before but I should point out I'm not a roofer! The only thing I can think is you need to break the one above the one you want access to, locate the nail holes and maybe you will find although the holes are not where you expected they may (If you're lucky) be the same on each slate. You can then use the one you uncover as your template to drill any others. Failing that I'm not sure sorry. Let me know how you get on. Best of luck.
A better way to secure the clip is to line up your lead strap and then make a hole in the lead in the position of the clip. That way the lead holds the clip and the slate simultaneously.
Erm, assuming that by 'the clip' you mean the copper rivet, can I venture that there's nothing to be gained by aligning the rivet and the strap (tingle)? The rivet and the tingle do two very different jobs; the rivet prevents a slate's bottom edge from lifting off the roof...and the tingle prevents a slate from sliding down the roof. They thus work independently, so aligning them is not only completely unnecessary but a right faff - because not only do you have to figure out where to make the hole in the strap...you have to get it spot on! Shuffling the rivet into place (with no lead strap in sight) is soooo much easier. :-)
Please can you tell me if it is appropriate to replace an entire course of slates both sides of a pitched roof in this manner, or would it be easier/more straightforward to carry out a complete re roof? The eaves vents on my property needs replacing and the bottom course of slates needs to be removed in order to do the work. I have the problem as in this clip, that the fixing holes are not visible for the entire course both sides. Any help would be much appreciated
First thing is that I'm not a roofer so you may be better to ask someone that comes across this more regularly. But from my own experience I would think to replace your eves vents you just need to remove your facia boards. Facia boards can be removed without taking the bottom row of slates out. Without seeing your setup it's hard to say but I would explore this option first. It's a relatively easy job to remove and refit a facia. Hope that helps. Best of luck and let me know what you decide on. Thanks for watching.
Don't people use copper straps no more? I am also amazed how many roofers I see not using a slaters pick hammer or a lathe hammer, I hate to see roofers using claw hammers :/
Hi there, I'm not a roofer, just a keen DIYer doing some work on my own roof. You can see me doing my loft conversion by clicking a on the following links if you're interested. Loft conversion part 1 - Removing the insulation & lime mortar - ua-cam.com/video/QysHnLoFQR8/v-deo.html Loft Conversion part 2 - Cutting and fitting the joists - ua-cam.com/video/un7vUwkSrnk/v-deo.html Loft conversion part 3 - Building the block work wall - ua-cam.com/video/Xj81qoCMQDg/v-deo.html Loft Conversion part 4 - Fit more joists up to the block work - ua-cam.com/video/vNIZ3qG9qqY/v-deo.html Loft Conversion part 5 - Insulation underboard & plyboard - ua-cam.com/video/hcagJItArI4/v-deo.html Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
I was currious what the lead strap was made of, if indeed it was lead. Copper is shiny when new, but otherwise a good material. Stainless steel would likely be the most durrable.
I did when I replaced my roof. See my series of loft conversion videos. Here's part 1 - Loft conversion part 1 - Removing the insulation & lime mortar - ua-cam.com/video/QysHnLoFQR8/v-deo.html. Thanks for watching.
It is the same, and not relevant to the video. Asbestos roof shingles are non-friable, if you do not know what that means, you might not want to comment.
If your going to make a video too show your talent on roofing ! Do not post shit where your breather felt is shit , you don't put over facia vents on which you should as that membrane is shit , you did not install felt support support trays ! And as far as using a bit off timber as as gauge in between battens !!! No 1 fuck up ! This is just my opinion! I know nothing and you must know it all ..
@@rickphillips5098 If 'your' going to criticise a YT post that’s been presented in (pretty good) English, you should at least comment in (pretty good) English. Yet your English is appalling. Here’s why... The word 'your' is a possessive pronoun and is therefore never, EVER, a substitute for the contraction 'you're' - meaning 'you are'. Children know this. The words ‘to’, ‘too’ and ‘two’ are not only spelled completely differently but mean completely different things. Children know this too. Your first two (not ‘to’ or ‘too’) sentences ought to have been one sentence. Children know this. There is no space required (or desired) before an exclamation mark!
A great video to give someone the confidence to replace a tile or two - it's definitely helped me. Thanks for sharing.
No problem, thanks for watching!
That’s useful, thank you. The rivet was new to me as an accomplished DIY enthusiast. Your videos are very handy so keep posting and ignore the keyboard warriors.
Thanks for the comment Kevin.
Very useful to watch as a building surveyor thank you
Excellent video. Very clear. Lots of very useful tips. Thank you.
You are a great guy & have a superb knowledge of building & I for one really appreciate you sharing your knowledge
Thank you
Thanks for the kind words and the support Jimi.
Most excellent explanation! Thank you.
An exellent demo sir,well explained too
Thanks for the feedback.
Helped me. Much appreciated. Cheers.
Cheers mate. Great video!!
Great video
Thanks!
Nice 👍 thankyou 🙏
Is the build up of moss on the roof a future problem? And is this common on genuine slate vs cement fiber slate? In my area in Canada this condition only occurs on roofs that are in close proximity to overhanging trees and never completely dries. This is combated by installing a strip of zinc at the top of the roof. Just an inch or so exposed below the ridge cap shingles.
Also, I haven't found a supplier of slaters (slators?) tools here. I am interested in conserving heritage properties/farms or just simply to provide a repair service for slate roofs. In the past , many people I know of gave up trying to find a company that does this kind of work and had the entire slate roof stripped and replaced with asphalt shingles. I find that to be a terrible loss to the value of the property, unless another "lifetime" roofing product is used. Any suggestions?
Top video, cheers lad
Thanks for watching
The hardest part seems to be to get to the roof safely
Really helpful. Thanks.
Great video and top repair, many thanks for sharing. In a tricky spot have you ever used any adhesive? I've been recommended Polyether but think there are other options.
Many thanks for the Video, what if I completely replace the roof with clay one please, if so do I need to strengthen the rafter ??
You may need to strengthen roof for additional weight. If in doubt speak to a structural engineer or your local authority building control officer. Thanks for watching.
Anyone can say that I found the broken tile by following the water leak. Isn't it somewhat difficult to detect it when the water flows further down? What is overlapping distance between slates?
The video wasn't to show how to detect a leak but how to replace a broken slate. The way slates are lapped, even with a cracked slate it shouldn't leak. As for lap, it depends on the pitch. These slates are 110mm lap for 25 - 30 degree pitch and 100mm lap for 30 - 35 degree pitch I think. Hope that helps. Hope that helps.
I've just had some of my 1980's fibre cement slates replaced. At the insistence of the roofer they were tested for asbestos - they contained chrysotile. If your slates look anything like the ones in this video, there is a high probability of them containing asbestos. Don't take a chance, get a sample tested to be sure.
Thank you for the valuable feedback.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE
Thank you for the really informative videos and even replying to comments like this one.
To be honest, I was shocked. I had no idea that common cement fibre slates could even contain asbestos and it was prevalent in slates into the eighties.
It's not something to be overly concerned with, as chrysotile is considered the least worst asbestos!
But I feel its an issue that diy'ers should be made aware of.
Thanks again.
@@RandomGrinch 3,000 products contain asbestos from lagging to toilet cisterns you name it
It isn't free to float around when it's in slate form.
The whole thing is incredibly overblown and a great example of scare tactics comparing one slate removal to the lifetimes worth of breathing fine asbestos dust in industry workers
@@manjichromagnon5480 Just like covid too
Have you ever dealt with Ayara Fibre cement tiles from SCG? they use 1.25" self cutting screws into steel laths. How would you go about replacing a single tile in this case, when the idiots that installed the original tiles did not use the screw hole locations? The theory is very similar to what you are doing, you are supposed to take a new tile that has pre marked screw locations, you use this as a template to locate the position of the screws that hold the broken tile. Then you need to drill through the upper tile to locate the screw heads (that should be in the position pre marked on the underlying tile, then unscrew the tile, slide it out, replace with a new one. Refit the upper tile and screw them down and seal the drilled hole with a tile filler paste.
The problem that arises is when idiots do not use the pre marked locations for the original screws. You use your template, drill out the top tile with a 10mm drill and surprise surprise, there are no screws where they should have been because the anus of a roofer has just drilled them into some other random location. The only way I can think that this could be repaired would be to get up and remove the ridge tiles then strip the roof back all the way to the broken tile! A crazy expensive time consuming shit of a job. Any other suggestions? Bare in mind, you cannot use a slate ripper on these type of screws. (at least I think you cannot) And just to make life even more fun, these Ayara tiles weigh about 2-3kgs each, they are huge and are generally secured by 2 or 3 screws.
Sorry for late reply. I haven't heard of that or seen it before but I should point out I'm not a roofer! The only thing I can think is you need to break the one above the one you want access to, locate the nail holes and maybe you will find although the holes are not where you expected they may (If you're lucky) be the same on each slate. You can then use the one you uncover as your template to drill any others. Failing that I'm not sure sorry. Let me know how you get on. Best of luck.
better to use a slate hook as heavy snow/ice when melting will slide and bend the lead back leaving slate to slide out.
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
A better way to secure the clip is to line up your lead strap and then make a hole in the lead in the position of the clip. That way the lead holds the clip and the slate simultaneously.
Erm, assuming that by 'the clip' you mean the copper rivet, can I venture that there's nothing to be gained by aligning the rivet and the strap (tingle)?
The rivet and the tingle do two very different jobs; the rivet prevents a slate's bottom edge from lifting off the roof...and the tingle prevents a slate from sliding down the roof. They thus work independently, so aligning them is not only completely unnecessary but a right faff - because not only do you have to figure out where to make the hole in the strap...you have to get it spot on! Shuffling the rivet into place (with no lead strap in sight) is soooo much easier. :-)
@@michaelwarwick9930 Completely agree, perfectly put. I mean, I am not a roofer, I have no idea really, but it seems common sense
Please can you tell me if it is appropriate to replace an entire course of slates both sides of a pitched roof in this manner, or would it be easier/more straightforward to carry out a complete re roof? The eaves vents on my property needs replacing and the bottom course of slates needs to be removed in order to do the work. I have the problem as in this clip, that the fixing holes are not visible for the entire course both sides. Any help would be much appreciated
First thing is that I'm not a roofer so you may be better to ask someone that comes across this more regularly. But from my own experience I would think to replace your eves vents you just need to remove your facia boards. Facia boards can be removed without taking the bottom row of slates out. Without seeing your setup it's hard to say but I would explore this option first. It's a relatively easy job to remove and refit a facia. Hope that helps. Best of luck and let me know what you decide on. Thanks for watching.
POUSE around the HOUSE Do not remove the fascia. The slates are probably sat on top and will all drop, it will be a nightmare trust me.
Why didn't you remove the top broken slate first??
I suppose I could have done. Best to go top down as nails below are exposed making life easier. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE your welcome
asbestos slates ?
No cement fibre these days.
Fibre cement. Thanks for watching.
FIBRE CEMENT - Nothing to do with Asbestos.
Yes fibre cement these days but the older ones may contain Crysotile, my company forbids me to touch them.
@@WoolyBuggerPicker if it was made before 1993, get it checked for asbestos
Don't people use copper straps no more?
I am also amazed how many roofers I see not using a slaters pick hammer or a lathe hammer, I hate to see roofers using claw hammers :/
Hi there, I'm not a roofer, just a keen DIYer doing some work on my own roof. You can see me doing my loft conversion by clicking a on the following links if you're interested.
Loft conversion part 1 - Removing the insulation & lime mortar - ua-cam.com/video/QysHnLoFQR8/v-deo.html
Loft Conversion part 2 - Cutting and fitting the joists - ua-cam.com/video/un7vUwkSrnk/v-deo.html
Loft conversion part 3 - Building the block work wall - ua-cam.com/video/Xj81qoCMQDg/v-deo.html
Loft Conversion part 4 - Fit more joists up to the block work - ua-cam.com/video/vNIZ3qG9qqY/v-deo.html
Loft Conversion part 5 - Insulation underboard & plyboard - ua-cam.com/video/hcagJItArI4/v-deo.html
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
I was currious what the lead strap was made of, if indeed it was lead. Copper is shiny when new, but otherwise a good material. Stainless steel would likely be the most durrable.
You are not allowed to use lath hammers anymore, because cutting a lath with a lath hammer weaken the lath
@@deanrickett1019 yeah mate I know, they are just a nicer hammer and are more fitting for roofers. Just being nostalgic ;)
POUSE around the HOUSE didn’t think u was a roofer looking at your tools and the way u carried the work ouy
Iv noted over time the lead will unfold
The correct straps, which don't unfold, are pre-made copper strips called tingles. They come with the hole already drilled in for the clout nail.
After doing the worst slate repair ever.You can then throw the old asbestos slates into the customers bin.Job done!.
Lmao
Oh there's lots of armchair critics on this post, none of them seem to actually be saying anything useful though...
Should use copper nails
I did when I replaced my roof. See my series of loft conversion videos. Here's part 1 - Loft conversion part 1 - Removing the insulation & lime mortar - ua-cam.com/video/QysHnLoFQR8/v-deo.html. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE don’t get me wrong I like your vids u do good work
Omg. I've seen slop, but this?😆😆
Please elaborate?
You're a clown mate, this was fine
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Ignore - this video isn't slop, it's very good
Standard procedure for slate replacement.
Those old slates are asbestos. Please hire a professional asbestos removal contractor! do not DIY
Oh give over
Correct, they can contain Crysotile.
@@wingmainful They are fibre cement tiles not asbestos!
@@terryfoss7570 They look too old to be fiber cement
Fibre cement? looks like asbo to me 🤣🤣
It is the same, and not relevant to the video. Asbestos roof shingles are non-friable, if you do not know what that means, you might not want to comment.
Bollocks
No, they're slates.
If your going to make a video too show your talent on roofing ! Do not post shit where your breather felt is shit , you don't put over facia vents on which you should as that membrane is shit , you did not install felt support support trays ! And as far as using a bit off timber as as gauge in between battens !!! No 1 fuck up ! This is just my opinion! I know nothing and you must know it all ..
@@rickphillips5098 If 'your' going to criticise a YT post that’s been presented in (pretty good) English, you should at least comment in (pretty good) English. Yet your English is appalling. Here’s why...
The word 'your' is a possessive pronoun and is therefore never, EVER, a substitute for the contraction 'you're' - meaning 'you are'. Children know this.
The words ‘to’, ‘too’ and ‘two’ are not only spelled completely differently but mean completely different things. Children know this too.
Your first two (not ‘to’ or ‘too’) sentences ought to have been one sentence. Children know this.
There is no space required (or desired) before an exclamation mark!
@@michaelwarwick9930 bollocks ! Need I say more ?
He's showing how to replace a cracked slate mate. Settle yourself down
Those cement slates are rubbish.