How To Build A Quad Anchor
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Instructor Jeff Ward explains how to build a quad anchor. It's self equalizing, provides separate clip-in points and you don't have to break it down for your second. Here's how to do it.
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This is a sweet system for bolted anchors, thanks for making a concise videos about it.
In the AMGA single pitch manual, it shows the toprope as always clipped into three of the four strands of the quad master point. Here Jeff shows belaying up the follower on two strands, and him anchored into two different ones. Is the reason for this difference in quad use so his equalization on the anchors is separate from the person he is belaying up? And if this is acceptable, is it acceptable to set up top rope through two of the four strands, or is using three considered standard in the single pitch setting?
Evan Marsh v
In a multi pitch setting, you want to belay your follow on a different 2 strands than yourself so you can move around and be equalized independently of what your partner's doing. In single pitch it doesn't matter so you might as well clip all 3. From this video: ua-cam.com/video/1CGIgdW6FCs/v-deo.html
brilliant. quick and to the point. thanks!
I posed the previous question as I am pursuing my AMGA single pitch cert and I want to be able to answer without a doubt what the industry standards are.
does it matter which 2 strands you use for your clip in and which 2 you used for the autoblock? or can you just pick any 2 random strands for each? Thanks!
It does not matter which strands you clip.
Really nice! Gonna try this. What coord are you using?
I think it's standard to use 6.5-7mm semi static prusik cord (cordelette) - but check with someone else first.
I apologize in advance for this newbie question but I have some 10mm dynamic climbing rope leftover after cutting my rope down to size. Is there anything inherently dangerous in using dynamic rope and it’s thicker diameter to make a top rope anchor vs static cordelette that is say 7mm?
never use static cordelette to make the top rope anchor, use always dynamic rope!
Wondering if you're trolling now. Rather you didn't on climbing safety! Static cordelette is perfectly fine for an anchor and has been since forever. Especially in a top rope situation you are incredibly unlikely to shock load the anchor in top rope. Additionally using dynamic rope for anchors you also run the risk of damaging it (and the rock if sandstone!) by the constant extension and retraction of the rope.
If you were using this for a top rope anchor would you clip two locking binders into three strands of the master point? And would it be the same three strands for both binders?
Personally I would have a unique strand to each locker and have them overlap in the middle strands using all the strands.
Yes, that is how I was taught and what I do for top rope.
John Coleman yeah I just clip into three strands with my locker always leaving one strand out and that strand is like a keeper strand you're in the system at that point if that makes sense
how many meters length and thickness you recommend for the cordolette? 6 meters 6mm dynamic cordolette is good? or maybe 7mm?
6 meters / about 18 feet is about right. 6mm is fine, 7mm if you are the cautious sort. =^)
I used 21 feet of 7mm, it's a decent length.
Woodthreep same question here :)
Could I use this set up in a trad anchor on say three pieces of gear?
Yes. One of the double ropes on one side can be used on the less bomber gear.
I've been using the quad for years. If it's mostly two bolt belays I will just leave the limiter knots tied. I haven't tried it for Trad climbing yet,
That dude has tight ropework
any knowledge on how well two strands withstand factor 2 impacts?
A factor 2 fall is gonna strain any gear you subject to it, including your rope. I'm guessing the anchor withstanding it would depend on the thickness of the cord, but at this point an old biner or rope could snap as well, not to mention the actual bolts. Best to stay safe and try to minimize the chance of a factor 2 fall
not sure that "staying safe" is an option. Accidents in North American Mountaineering would not need printing. So, thanks, that is not an answer. How about this, any data that says two cordlette strands of 7 or 8mm can withstand multiple factor 2 impacts, or is this just a new demonstration of cats cradle for climbers? Climbers need too understand it is time for real standards to emerge AT the belay, lets be over with assumptions please.
@@baezport if you expect to have multiple factor 2 falls during your climbing, this anchor is not the only one thing you should worry about
“Factor 2” falls can only exist within a dynamic system (ie the total stretch your rope will endure) These falls are the absolute worst case scenario situation your climbing rope can face - and that rope is usually rated for at least 3 of these falls. If you are looking for overall anchor strength you’re better off paying attention to equalization and redundancy. The chances of your rope facing a factor 2 fall are so minuscule it’s generally irrelevant.
Faz anos, que uso esse procedimento. Obrigado por compartilhar!!!
we always taught you need an anchor lower down if you were going to belay above.
Can you use a figure 8 in a quad?
I'm not a professional, but why would you tie figure eights when the overhand is much easier and is totally safe? I'd say just use the overhand.
@@aerozz8851 , I have a unique anchor situation at a local crag. Let me explain: At Split Rock in Tiburon, CA, instead of bolting the rock they drilled through it, so you can thread ~7mm cord in two places. It may sound sketchy, but it does not seem that way, plus the holes are visually low impact.
I would rather use a equalizing anchor like the quad or a sliding X with limiter knots. If I use a figure 8 as a limitor knot, that I can thread the cord through the knot and follow through the figure 8 to complete the loop, rather than another double fisherman.
I was not sure if the figure 8 was a problem for a limiter knot.
@@KillroyX99I have no clue about that. Seek professional assistance in your area.
@@aerozz8851 , I figured it out.:)
@@KillroyX99 as far as I know yes you can use figure 8 knot, the only thing is it utilisie more rope..
Btw, you've mentioned that you figured it out?? What does your research lead to??
awesome vid.
Is it just me, or does anyone else feels weird just seeing someone using leather gloves to make knots/ropework..
About the vid: cool stuff! but I dont know if I prefer this above the Equallete or the Distributive systems, each system being employed in different situations.
Did not say what knots were used. Did not show how equalise - not a good instructional video..
This is a fairly niche/context specific style of anchor; anyone wanting to learn how to make it would presumably have learnt about the knots involved and how to equalise already. If you don't know either of these I suggest learning and becoming familiar with the most common types of anchors first..
Watching the video you can see he uses two overhand knots (very simple) and the Quad is self-equalizing
>niche/context specific
Can I ask why? I've primarily used the Quad for top roping but I'm wondering what else it's good for.
If you do not understand the instruction you have come to the wrong video. Start with the basics!
very bad instructional video.. him don't flip one of the two ropes before clip the carabiner...
Possibly misunderstood the anchor. You do not need the "sliding X" on one of the two ropes as the second pair of ropes will stop the carabiner sliding off the end of the system should one of the bolts blow out. Pause the video when you can see the whole system and take a look at what would happen if a bolt failed.