When you put those lines back together, take the blue clips off the metal line and snap them back inside the plastic fitting. When you put the lines back on, all you have to do is push them on until they click in place. Former GM tech here.
Thanks Dave, I hope I remember that the next time. I might be doing this on a Ford Ranger I just bought, I don't know if the lines are the same or not. I might pick your brain in the future. I just answered another comment on this video about hard starting, you might want to offer your 2 cents.
@@GordonRobertsonDIY depending on the year on that ranger, it could use a clip you can pry out then separate the line, or have a fitting similar to the springlock connectors used on Ford's early a.c. system. It requires a special tool that fits in the connector to push the jaws inside away from the line
I do have a couple sets of those plastic rings that are used to release those lines. They remind me of the Sharkbite fittings used on plumbing in houses.
@@GordonRobertsonDIY yep, that's the ones. And yeah, it works similar to a sharkbite except there's a ring crushed into the end of the line the fitting's metal fingers snap over, whereas a shark bite fitting digs into the line.
Thanks for the video. I'll admit I was a "wimp" and paid someone to do my fuel pump. I'm glad I gave him a tip - he didn't charge me enough now that I can see what it took. True, he did take the pickup bed off, but that's not easy, either.
I have a 04 avalanche as well and I can’t find the fuel filter and can’t find a videos that will show me where it is. Is the fuel filter inside the tank?
Thanks, I have an 05 Avalanche. GM didn't put an external fuel filter on the 05's, it's in the tank. I'll see if I can remove the in-tank fuel filter & install an external re-useable/cleanable fuel filter. That tank removal is a PITA every time I need to replace the fuel filter. Hopefully she'll start up sooner after changing the fuel filter. In your opinion would the in tank fuel filter partially clogged cause my 05 Avalanche to take quite a few more crankshaft revolutions than normal hot or cold to start? I haven't checked the fuel pressure. Or would it more than likely be the fuel pump getting worn out? Approx. 130,000 miles on it. Once started she runs great. I can hardly believe GM didn't put an external fuel filter on the 05's.
Myself not being in practice and up to date on the subject, my guess would be, 1st try turning the key on and listen for the pump, give it a few seconds to pressurize the line, if it starts quick after that it might be the pump not holding line pressure. Another thing could be, if it throws black smoke after starting, it could be the fuel pressure regulator leaking and allowing the engine to flood after it's turned off. The regulator should be on the engine where the fuel line goes in from the tank and has a vacuum hose on it, it's a small part, change that first, it doesn't cost anything and is usually easy to get to but mine was NOT easy on my GMC 454
Be a good idea to check the fuel pressure. In addition to the fuel pressure regulator, the computer has a fuel pump relay that runs the pump for 2 seconds to pre presurize the system. When you turn the key on, you should hear the pump run for a few seconds. If not, get a wiring diagram and check the relay and wiring. If it's not working, the pump requires oil pressure to build up during cranking to close the contacts in the oil sending unit, resulting in a extended crank.
@@dave1135 You didn't answer my questions with the question makes next to them. It's not the pressure, or the regulator. Just please answer the questions only.
@@jetenginethrust863 as I said, you need to check fuel pressure with key on, engine off, before cranking. Pump should run for 2 seconds to prime. If it doesn't, then it can cause a long crank before start. If it doesn't come on, then could be fuel pump relay, or ecm fault. If it does run, check pressure. Not sure on your model, but should be a minimum of 45-50psi. Also should build quickly on the gauge. Slow pressure build or low pressure could mean bad pump or filter. Hope this helps
@@jetenginethrust863 if you have checked fuel pressure, and above you said you hadn't, if you haven't, it's a first step I always do. These fuel injected engines are finicky with fuel pressure. I had a Buick lesabre that seemed to run fine, but cut out on high speed when accelerating. Only had 25psi and could not pass a volume test, where you have the engine idling and you press the bleed valve on the gauge and the pump should flow at least 300ml within 30 seconds without stalling the engine. One other thing that could cause it is a bad cam or crank sensor. That can cause a long crank.
Nightmare of a job, a beater car for winter driving I think I would have cut a hole in the floor, I've seen guys cut a square hole in the bed of a pickups to change the fuel pump, seen it done with panel vans like the Vandura and Econolines.
At 23:13, I hate to say, you're going to need new pressure and return lines, the rubber O ring and yellow keeper are supposed to remain in the plastic line. When those fittings get rusted they destroy the seals in the fitting, and it will leak if reused. Any time we had one in that bad, the lines were replaced with the pump. It's about $70 for the pressure line and $40 for the return. Just more of gm's poor engineering.
The two boxes at the rear of the tank around 8:00 are the EVAP canister and tank vent valve. Part of the evaporative emissions ststem
Thanks Dave.
When you put those lines back together, take the blue clips off the metal line and snap them back inside the plastic fitting. When you put the lines back on, all you have to do is push them on until they click in place. Former GM tech here.
Thanks Dave, I hope I remember that the next time. I might be doing this on a Ford Ranger I just bought, I don't know if the lines are the same or not. I might pick your brain in the future. I just answered another comment on this video about hard starting, you might want to offer your 2 cents.
@@GordonRobertsonDIY depending on the year on that ranger, it could use a clip you can pry out then separate the line, or have a fitting similar to the springlock connectors used on Ford's early a.c. system. It requires a special tool that fits in the connector to push the jaws inside away from the line
I do have a couple sets of those plastic rings that are used to release those lines. They remind me of the Sharkbite fittings used on plumbing in houses.
@@GordonRobertsonDIY yep, that's the ones. And yeah, it works similar to a sharkbite except there's a ring crushed into the end of the line the fitting's metal fingers snap over, whereas a shark bite fitting digs into the line.
I saw a couple videos on the ranger this morning and the lines are about the same as the GM
Thanks for the video. I'll admit I was a "wimp" and paid someone to do my fuel pump. I'm glad I gave him a tip - he didn't charge me enough now that I can see what it took. True, he did take the pickup bed off, but that's not easy, either.
I have a 04 avalanche as well and I can’t find the fuel filter and can’t find a videos that will show me where it is. Is the fuel filter inside the tank?
Yes. Part of the pump. Called pump sock filter
You can't lift the "bed" on an avalanche, because it is part of the cab. They're a bed/cab combo
You need a head strap for your go pro or phone. That way where ever you look the camera points.
Thanks, I have an 05 Avalanche. GM didn't put an external fuel filter on the 05's, it's in the tank. I'll see if I can remove the in-tank fuel filter & install an external re-useable/cleanable fuel filter. That tank removal is a PITA every time I need to replace the fuel filter. Hopefully she'll start up sooner after changing the fuel filter. In your opinion would the in tank fuel filter partially clogged cause my 05 Avalanche to take quite a few more crankshaft revolutions than normal hot or cold to start? I haven't checked the fuel pressure. Or would it more than likely be the fuel pump getting worn out? Approx. 130,000 miles on it. Once started she runs great. I can hardly believe GM didn't put an external fuel filter on the 05's.
Myself not being in practice and up to date on the subject, my guess would be, 1st try turning the key on and listen for the pump, give it a few seconds to pressurize the line, if it starts quick after that it might be the pump not holding line pressure. Another thing could be, if it throws black smoke after starting, it could be the fuel pressure regulator leaking and allowing the engine to flood after it's turned off. The regulator should be on the engine where the fuel line goes in from the tank and has a vacuum hose on it, it's a small part, change that first, it doesn't cost anything and is usually easy to get to but mine was NOT easy on my GMC 454
Be a good idea to check the fuel pressure. In addition to the fuel pressure regulator, the computer has a fuel pump relay that runs the pump for 2 seconds to pre presurize the system. When you turn the key on, you should hear the pump run for a few seconds. If not, get a wiring diagram and check the relay and wiring. If it's not working, the pump requires oil pressure to build up during cranking to close the contacts in the oil sending unit, resulting in a extended crank.
@@dave1135 You didn't answer my questions with the question makes next to them. It's not the pressure, or the regulator. Just please answer the questions only.
@@jetenginethrust863 as I said, you need to check fuel pressure with key on, engine off, before cranking. Pump should run for 2 seconds to prime. If it doesn't, then it can cause a long crank before start. If it doesn't come on, then could be fuel pump relay, or ecm fault. If it does run, check pressure. Not sure on your model, but should be a minimum of 45-50psi. Also should build quickly on the gauge. Slow pressure build or low pressure could mean bad pump or filter. Hope this helps
@@jetenginethrust863 if you have checked fuel pressure, and above you said you hadn't, if you haven't, it's a first step I always do. These fuel injected engines are finicky with fuel pressure. I had a Buick lesabre that seemed to run fine, but cut out on high speed when accelerating. Only had 25psi and could not pass a volume test, where you have the engine idling and you press the bleed valve on the gauge and the pump should flow at least 300ml within 30 seconds without stalling the engine. One other thing that could cause it is a bad cam or crank sensor. That can cause a long crank.
SALUDOS!!!!GORDON la ford f150 1987 tiene el mismo sistema de abrazaderas (clamps)...yo tengo una troca de esas GRACIAS por el video👍🔩🛠⚒🇵🇷
Thanks Jose.
Good video again that Black box it is a filter
Thanks Glenn.
Nightmare of a job, a beater car for winter driving I think I would have cut a hole in the floor, I've seen guys cut a square hole in the bed of a pickups to change the fuel pump, seen it done with panel vans like the Vandura and Econolines.
I do my best to keep things original when possible, but have done that sort of thing before.
At 23:13, I hate to say, you're going to need new pressure and return lines, the rubber O ring and yellow keeper are supposed to remain in the plastic line. When those fittings get rusted they destroy the seals in the fitting, and it will leak if reused. Any time we had one in that bad, the lines were replaced with the pump. It's about $70 for the pressure line and $40 for the return. Just more of gm's poor engineering.
Thanks Dave.
“I know how to fix that...”
Throw a match to it and call insurance company!
That is a 1000 dollar repair
Those sending units have been rusting like that since the 80's, it's all planned!
They sure know about it and don't fix it.
I did mine about 2 months ago on a 03 and it actually not that bad if you have a second person helping
Gordon you could join circus soleil the way you can get around that truck mate
Well, I do try to keep my weight down and do exercise regular. I'm not that young anymore.
S.A