5 Most Common SAAB 9-3 Mechanical Issues!!
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- Опубліковано 6 лип 2024
- In this vid I talk about the 5 most common mechanical issues you may find when looking to purchase or when owning a Saab 9-3.
5.) The fuel float - causes a faulty gas guage reading.
4.) Ignition Switch Module (ISM) - It's where the keys go into; and the Central/Column Integrated Module (CIM) - behind the steering wheel. More info on this topic can be found in the comments section under my pinned comment.
3.) Evaporator core - Where the air conditioning freon will leak out of.
2.) Intake valves - 07 to 09 2.0L 4cyl issue.
1.) Ignition coils - 2.8L V6 going bad issue.
What are your most common Saab 9-3 issues you've come across? - Авто та транспорт
For clarification purposes since I did screw up some terminology: When I was discussing #4 on the list, I'm referring/pointing to the Ignition Switch Module (ISM). The Central Integrated Module or also known as the Column Integrated Module (CIM). It's the part located behind the steering wheel.
In a nutshell, the ISM (where the key goes into) transmits your key electronics to the CIM (behind steering wheel) to unlock your steering wheel and to ultimately start the car. If you start to have errors reading "steering lock malfunction" and "immobilizer failure" then you're having issues with one or both of these modules.
Recommendation: Replace the ISM first, since liquids may be spilled onto it and it actually DOES NOT need tech II programmed. If that doesn't work, then the CIM is likely the culprit. Since both work hand in hand, spilled liquid can even short out the CIM. Furthermore, If you lose all of your keys, you will also need to replace the CIM. This WILL require a tech II to marry to the vehicle.
One last point of mention: If you lost all of your keys, there is another option. You can send your original CIM to a company like lostsaabkeys.net which can program new keys to your exhisting module.
Hope this info helps! Thanks for watching!!
idiot
great correction
fuel gauge is the same issue in the 95, likely the same design with the level float, i had different pumps in same thing , solution is i never fill it full.
Basically ignore the entire section where the CIM is talked about. It's totally screwed up. Yes, spilling liquids in the *ISM* would be bad. But, the ISM is much cheaper - maybe $140 for a new one - and it doesn't have to be reprogrammed (you can get a used one for even less), and you don't have to replace the clockspring coil or disconnect it, etc. You don't have to replace the ISM if you lose all your keys (you will however have to replace the CIM - ALWAYS make sure you have two programmed keys). Anyway, it's not just the terminology that was screwed up in that section.
One of my 9-3's had a broken tab on the ISM when I got it so it dropped down a bit in the center console. It was relatively easy to replace. I have three of these, 04, 06, 07. Two have the fuel gauge issue. Haven't had any of the other listed issues though. There are great on-line sites to help with DIYs for these cars too.
3 431
Just had my first 9-3 coil go out at 260,000! Replaced all but it's so worth it. Heading to 500,000 now... ;)
260k miles or km?
@@brodernaflodin km i think
@@Kipparimedia I'm at 227k miles and still loving the ride ;-)
Moving the key to the centre is a great idea. I got a compound kneecap fracture in a frontal collision from the key scallop in a ford. 22 years later I still have a limp.
GM wrecked Saab.
thats exactly what happened
You couldn’t have said it better !
not the old 95 from 98-01 it was so well build....newer versions have more problems electrical .
I've had '96 900S, '97 9000 Aero which were both purchased at higher mileage. I now drive a 2004 9-3 Vector which I've owned from 70K km's (now 196 K). Also have 2001 Viggen and '97 900S in our family. Honestly can't fault my newer 9-3 as it has been the most reliable vehicle I've owned. Besides brakes & shocks, only Mtc was a failed temp. sensor that I replaced around 160K and the heater fan when the motor began failing shortly after purchase at 80K. Strangely, the sound system amp was corrected by changing connections for the fibre optic in/out cable. Interior finish is cheapened compared with the older models, but 9-3 Linear seems generally simpler to work on and I'm expecting the rear mounted turbo configuration will avoid the sludge issues of the older generation models. (Viggen cooling fan is also tight up up the turbo & exhaust,)
My satisfaction with the newest GM model remains high. If buying again, would prefer a sport Combi but honestly I think a hatch design would have been better. (The 9000 Aero did cause me grief with leaks from the hatch though).
It's sad how Saab was left floundering in bankruptcy after GM sold it off. I think with the new designs and 9-5 based SUV, the car was well positioned to be a great vehicle.
The Subaru and Chevy Equinox clones however, didn't make sense to me as they were only rebranding.
Word! SAAB 900/9000 from the early 90s are the best car ever built.
Pssht have a 93 2008 with 280000 miles. Runs like a clock. The only issue I've had is a tire pressure senor which i replaced with a valve stem. And an faulty o2 senor. The only complaint i have with the 2.0T is the oil is a little more pricey than your average oil. But it damn well does its job. Hoping to get this baby to 300000
I’ve got a 2010 9-3 XWD. One of the best cars ever! A few problems I’ve had to fix. Both rear window regulators, brake system vacuum pump, map sensor, thermostat. Nothing major. Maintenance is super easy. Been doing it myself the whole time. Still a nimble car at 8 years old, and just under 60k miles.
Thanks for the video. Your car looks amazing, I’ve seen new cars that haven’t been as clean as yours.
Another issue I discovered as a 9-3ss owner: The cabin air filter holder and rear tail lights lose their seal and will leak water into your car during the rain. Re-seal them with silicone asap when you buy a Saab. Given that AMP1 in the front is already prone to failure the water pooling up beneath you will speed up that process! If you have AMP2 the rear leak will take out your AMP2 as well.
07 9-3 Aero owner here, my gas gauge has been broken since I’ve owned the car haha, also have had to replace the ISM a few times (I can change one out in less than 5 mins), and I’m about to do 6 new coils and plugs today on my day off. Overall I love my car it’s extremely fast and fun, and mechanically very reliable!
Thanks very much, very illuminating! Well done on the vid. I now know what to look out for.
You didn't mention the coolant expansion tank on the Aero/ 2.8L. Ugg, probably the biggest pain about this car is the never ending smell of coolant and low coolant lights. I can see some corrosion on the bracket on the car in the video, it's probably suffered too.
The problem is that the tank is right next to the turbo, and the heat screws up the two short return hoses, the cap and clamps seem to soften and leak. They drip on the exhaust shroud, and you need to top of the coolant every month or so.
I'm constantly looking for more serious leaks, but so far, it's mostly been the return hoses and clamps and cap that fails.
The original oem tank was garbage, would split and crack. The OEM recall introduced a much better tank, which I haven't had fail, but the updated tank apparently has it's chambers reversed, and some (including saab's recall, i believe) suggest that reversing the hoses.
The car in the video has the new tanks, and the returns are crossed, per the original tank. The suggestion is that with the new tank, do the opposite of the car in the video don't cross the hoses, make them go straight, so when facing the tank from the front, the right hose goes to the turbo, and the left hose goes to the engine.
You can see it here: ua-cam.com/video/CWdv8geHA1E/v-deo.html
The idea is that the pressure from the turbo return is fairly high, and the right side of the tank has a larger compartment, relieving the pressure better, and anyway it won't hurt anything.
I've done this, I guess it helps a little, but anyway I carry spare hoses, cap, good quality clamps and a few tools with me. I have had the hoses split when I'm on the road.
There is also apparently an update to the programming that causes the fans to go on at a lower temperature, which might help as well
Never had any of these problems on any of my Saabs I've own. own both a 9-3 06 with 170000 miles and a 9-3 08 with 150000 miles. currently owning a 9-5 05 with 135000 miles. only paid for common service (Oil, Filters etc.) and a faulty wheel bearing on my 9-3 06. my dad has also own a few Saabs and had basically paid the same type of service etc like me. own other brands of car where I had much more expensive repairs. so in my experience Saab is very reliable cars.
vizze virre coil packs defenetly soon. 104$ a pack
Nice
That's great news!
Love my 2006 93 Aero. My gas gauge does exactly what you showed.
My gas gauge doesn’t work
I've got a 9-3v1 from '98 with 230000km. Haven't encountered any real issues apart from plastic parts breaking off. Seems like saab really lost it's magic when GM started to control more.
I had a CIM symptom on my SC 2008 but all i did was spray some oxi-clean in the slot and rubbed and cleaned with a towel and it hasnt come back yet, 1 year later.
Overall, One of the most reliable cars you can buy, lack of maintenance by idiots are their biggest problem
It’s reliable not the most reliable
@@Technobitz He said ONE OF THE MOST RELIABLE
hahahahahaha
I personally owned fully loaded 9-3 aero late model and I knew many others who had older models and 9-5s and everything in between, definitely NOT most reliable more like at the bottom of being reliable.
'03 9-3 Aero saloon, currently on 212000 miles, probably cost me £212000 over the last few years to keep it on the road, lol. Engine and gearbox are great, electrics not so much.....
This is pretty spot on for all Saabs, actually. It's really easy for lint and gunk to get into the ISM even if you're careful. So, I keep a spray can of contact cleaner in the glove compartment...just in case. That usually does the trick. Just give it a really good soaking deep in there and just wait for it to dry.
Ignition coils triggering the engine light is also fairly common. Sometimes, it's a minor and intermittent thing. Sometimes, the ignition coil needs replacing. If the latter, NEVER, EVER get a cheap after-market replacement for these. Get an OEM part.
Evap core was a new problem for me, wasn't aware!
I own a 93 2.0t aero 2004 with 80,000. Last week my fan on the ac packed in and low and behold the driver side seat belt mechanism broke this week. I love driving the car but its a proper headache at times. I have it 3 years and I've already replaced coil packs and had to rewire the rear lights because they were melting and shorting out. I'm glad I've a Dad who knows a thing or 2 about cars so i can do the fix myself. Gonna have a busy weekend ahead of me
On the 2.8 V6:
the 3 front coils are easy to do, the 3 back coils are a pain in the ass!
Oh god. I have vietnam flashbacks of the booster line with check valve snapping...
Hell me about it. Only car I've ever had to remove the ECU from to get those rears out
Intake valve issue confirmed. 2009 Convertible 2.0T with 64,000 miles all original babied garage queen, as of January: Compression is around 90-110 on them.
Runs decent once it warms up, but good luck keeping it running until then. Still worth fixing. Beautiful and fun cars, especially the verts.
Mine is a 2007 1.9 diesel, so the engine issues you mention haven't affected mine, thankfully. And my fuel gauge has given me no problems thus far, and no problems with the A/C so far neither. But I did have trouble with the CIM module for a short while, where it would not recognise my key fob. I used to get round it by turning the steering wheel anti clockwise slightly, while inserting the fob into the ignition, and this used to work, 9/10 times. But the fault disappeared on its own eventually.
I am currently having problems with the rear passenger door (left side in the UK) randomly locking itself, and it will not unlock, even though all the other doors unlock ok, for now. This is slightly worrying, because if it were to happen to the drivers door, it could be dangerous if I was involved in an accident, and was unable to open the door to escape. I have heard of other people who have had similar problems with the rear doors too. Its happened twice so far, but the first time, it lasted for a couple of weeks, then just randomly corrected itself. Ir was fine for few months, , then it happened again. So that is another SAAB quirk that people should maybe bear in mind.
Great vid, was wondering if a CIM from a Saab 93 linear 2007 work on a 2008 or a 2005 saab 93?
I just bought a 2008 2.0t combi. I did absolutely no research beforehand. Lol. I had to move fast It was on FB marketplace. A 1 owner company car for $3500 bucks. It does have 145k but I got it for $3000 and it is a winner. Only thing I need to work on is drivers door lock does not work and sunroof won’t close and reopens itself. But it will fly and runs super smooth. I just hope I don’t have intake valve woes. I got only partial service history from the company and from carfax. The car was transferred a few times between states and paperwork did not follow. But this is m6 first Saab and I love it. I posted a couple of vids on my channel. Thanks for your post. I just subbed!
My CIM malfunctioned and I found it was a bad connection in the module and easily fixed by a good clean out with WD 40 contact cleaner and moving the key back and forth to clear the switch contacts in the module. Worth a try to start off.
A common issue with the 2.0 Ecotec is for the vacuum pump driving the brake master cylinder to begin leaking oil. Also, timing chain tensioners on the Ecotec 4 are notoriously prone to sticking. Local machine shop said they had rebuilt the heads on countless Chevy Cobalts where the timing chain tensioners failed.
good video. i have an 09 9-3 with an intermittent a warm start issue. could valve issue you mentioned be a likely cause?
lov ur vids....do u feel by keeping the alumium billet off above the coil packs helps heat disapation...or just put drilled holes into it....oh boy damm fuel gauge...cim issue unreal...add plastics finish problems....rear window trim...but i love saabs
Can you do one on 9-5 issues?
I’m looking to buy a 2.8t , most of the common issues I can tackle myself but I’m worried about having a CIM issue , and timing chain tensioner issue (you didn’t mention it).
Regarding the Fuel Pump, I've just put my 4th on the car. The oem's seem to crap out at like 50k or so. Definitely requires dropping the tank, so you might replace the charcoal canister and the evap purge valve on the tank, and if you have any concerns about your parking brake sticking, you might replace the cables at the same time.
Apparently the OEM is a Walbro brand, and is not that great. Your mileage may vary, but if you can get a Bosch replacement at a reasonable price, you may improve your odds of having it fail again. There seem to be mixed reviews about Airtex, Walbro, and various other brands. Some have reported codes popping up after replacement and having to replace the pump again.
There is also a purge valve in the middle of the engine bay behind the ecm that fails and causes the car to hard start right after adding gas, even before you start seeing a code. Bosch replacements are pretty inexpensive, and it seems to fix it. It's a tricky replacement, but you can find a few videos to help, It took me a hour to pick it apart. My advise is to clear the area of the ecu harness and frame, the 7 pin wiring harness that is in the way, remove the ground wire and get it out of the way. There is a bracket with a atmospheric pressure sensor, remove that. Remove the brake vacuum breather to get it out of the way. Then take the bracket assembly where the valve is mounted off completely, pulling the two breathers off with it. Unplug the cable, and you'll be able to reassemble everything easily. Like everything else on a saab, it takes an hour the first time, then a few minutes to do it once you see how it's supposed to work.
I'm struggling through a CISM issue right now, and some others. 2006 9-3 turbo 2.0 car saw some rain soaking I"m afraid in the interior and I suspect ruined some electrical components. I'm told there is a control box or amplifier under the driver's seat under some models which affects many systems. I also have no computer display on the top center dash - none, nada. Completely blacked out. The fuel gauge and others in that cluster work 'sometimes' and don't others. Connection somewhere? Any thoughts or assistance truly appreciated from any experienced with these problems.
Another common issue is the rear shocks mount. Just fixed my ignition switch and replaced AC compressor and fuel level sensor.
cleanest damn engine on here!
Replace the gas cap first! That is the problem I found on mine with the gas gauge working intermittently.
yup, my 2005 convertible, the gas gage died at 200K. No access panel. Cost is dropping the tank… Ignition switch too. Other than those, no issues.
Damn... that's one of the cleanest Saabs I think Ive ever seen....
I sure wish mine looked like that. Mine's been through hell and back.
Never had any of them problems only leak on a fuel tank . Definitely most reliable cars I’ve drove
A saab is about as reliable as a vampire liking daylight. best way to "fix" that saab....get rid of it.....asap. saab/ sob while broken down waiting for tow truck. saab - stranded again , always broken.
I’ve had 3 Saab’s and they are definitely the most reliable cars I’ve owned. It seems to me that the problem is that most people don’t maintain their vehicles very well and this causes problems further down the road. My current Saab is a 2008 1.9 TDI Convertible. Bought with 110,000 miles with full dealer service history.
It’s now at 156,000 and working perfectly. Had to change the clutch flywheel recently but that’s it.
I just replaced the pump in my V6 Aero.
Lemme tell you, having a working petrol gauge is still something I'm getting used too!
you forgot a few things...the rear upper shock mounts split open. along with the rear coil springs rust out on the bottom where water/salt tends to pool up. interior plasic buttons chip away. window motors fail. back window trim degrades...should i go on? lol
I'll mention my heater fan on my 2008 1.8T I assume same fan on most 9-3's. It's held in a plastic cover with a drain hole in the wrong place so in wet climates the motor bearing gets immersed in water and corrodes then starts to screech and bind. A real pain to take out as well. Other than that it's been good for 100k miles apart from the usual slow failing CPS but that was a very easy and cheap fix. I like the solid feel of these cars on the road.
Had two Saab 9-3s, one 2003 and one 2007. I checked off all of these issues between the two cars and both had a couple of them.
Hi have a 2003 93 2lt saab lost off all gears outo can you tell me what it could be
My gfs saab has had the problem fixed by the previous owner with the key/cim/steering column. It costed the owner about 1200 dollars. Now a few years later the same problem is starting to creepy back. Every 20th startup it pops a warning.
I am looking to buy one used with 187000 km on it but the guy says there is a ets light on which no mechanic had been able to put off ? Anyone knows the cause or if it's a common problem and if so what's the repair cost ? Thanks
Well, I loved my 900 and my 93. Fond memories of both. But like the author, I am DIY handy. 🙂. RIP SAAB.
I have saab 99 GL years 1983 this is classic
now your talking a real saab ,these engines never failed i worked on them when they were new
Thanks for the advice, looking to buy a 2004 Saab 9-3 Arc Front Wheel Drive Convertible, any suggestions? Vehicle has 96,000 miles. A foreign exotic car dealer is selling it.
I just picked one of these up with 150k miles for 1200
Oh I have an 2008 2.0t! I am in love with my hard cold starts and shaky idle! Just brings joy to my heart 😞. I have been driving out that way for about 20,000 miles though hasn’t gotten any worse.. It stops after about 20 seconds on a cold start. Never on a hot start. I am curious if it’s OK to just continue driving it with this problem? I mean it’s a $3000 car. Why would I spend so much money on it?
From what I've heard, it's the dreaded intake valve issue causing your hard cold starts/stalling. A compression test or leak down test would prove it. If that's the case, yeah replacement is the simplest route. Just make sure of the earlier than '07 being a match. There are differences. Good luck.
I drive 93 2.0 t 2003 - it has a million mechanical issues, but none of these mentioned here :) gearbox, alternator (not sure if this is correct english word for this part),turbo,electronics,electronics, electronics..... nice car,expensive maintenance.
Mo 08 Saab 9s Aero has a slight wobble, hesitation when you start moving. Front Axels ok. Right rear rim had a dent. Fixed rim. Now slighter wobble still there!? Any ideas???
Hello! You need to update your five list to six. One notorious problem on 9-3 2.0 is the ECU. It sits in the middle of the engine and for sure it will fail showing codes related to inyectors. it happening now on my 2006 9-3 2.0 with 167,000 miles
I own a 06 9-3, the gas gauge is an issue and the ac.
ive never had these problems on my saab 9-3 2003 and the CIM is behind the steering wheel and not where the key is
Correct, but dirt and debris can affect the little square box of tricks that contains the rfid reader for the key fob.
Herman Munster can you clean it out
I'm looking @ a 2002 9 3
Are there similar problems
Nope, different engines
AMP1 issues, MCC Resistor/Controller issues. Ceased up blower fans... All pretty common issues as well. Overall the 2.0 is pretty bullet proof.
I have a 2007 Saab 9-3. I was trying to get a new key made because the key itself beat up and it doesn't unlock the car. So I went to a company in my area that works on Saabs and I told him I wanted a full key with a fob and the metal part. Well he seems to want me to just to buy the fob part only. He said that he would have to make some copy and send it off so they could make the metal part. And there's sometimes when you get the keys back it doesn't fit in the car. It just didn't make sense to me because this is a Saab company that I thought they were able to make the key. I know this is a crazy question but do you have an idea why he might they saying this? Also, why do you have a picture of the car on fire??
Slimkat 2018 you can get keys in Uk easy for £80. He’s talking shit
Great video, what a surprise a European cars most common issues seem to be excessively expensive labor that the average person cant DIY... besides the coils lol... no thanks lol.. Very nice video, straightforward great information delivery
So if your are still reading this, I suppose you have the idea that I'm stubborn. Yep. Actually the 2.8 is an awesome platform, and it's running about as well as it did when new, so I keep fixing it, and keeping it running for another couple of years. Of course, I'm able to source parts, and the forums and youtube guides are a huge help, usually you can get to the bottom of a problem fairly directly, it's not for everyone. The dealers would charge a fortune for the same work and replace big expensive things, but with a pretty good idea of what needs replacing and the parts in hand, any good mechanic can put it together for you.
When you add it all up, spending a thousand or two here and there is way cheaper than buying a new European car of similar quality. I've rebuilt this car from a wreck with a salvage title, replaced most of the steering and suspension parts, and it runs and handles like new, basically. The most annoying thing about keeping an older car on the road has been door locks and window regulators, fixing worn and broken trim, that sort of stuff.
While it's true that GM screwed up Saab, the fact that their engineering and engines and systems are used in so many cars is very helpful, parts availability for the power train is really good, you almost always can cross reference to bosch, acdelco and aftermarket parts. The same 9440/ b284/ 28z NEL/NET platform is used in Cadillacs, Opels, and Vauxhall.
Here's some resources for other stubborn Saab nuts:
saabwisonline.com/ is basically all the info dealers have for removing and refitting about everything. Big help.
This is the first of 4 training videos that basically disassemble the entire engine of the 2.8. You can see how everything fits together.
ua-cam.com/video/CWdv8geHA1E/v-deo.html
Of course the 4 or 5 main saab forums give lots of clues about what will fix codes, and there are a bunch of diy repair videos on UA-cam that are a huge help, like for replacing door and window parts.
esaabparts, the saabsite, and a few other parts dealers have excellent schematics you can pull up by your vin, and you have access to saab's entire parts network, same as the dealers.
Once you have your part numbers, you can search google, amazon and ebay for oem, used, overstock and aftermarket parts.
Rockauto is a great way to cross reference aftermarket parts. Drill in by your year/model, and you will likely find bosch ACDelco and aftermarket OE equivalents for your saab part numbers.
Goldwing Saab in NY salvages saabs, and has been proven to be really reliable for used parts, doors, frame parts, etc.
Thanks again for this great video!
Thank you for your informative comments Peter!
@@WeakestofWeeks I found your resources video, we have the same favorites!
You are not alone. Bought my dream: 2008 Sport/Combi. The ECM went out- had to tow 300 miles- twice! ($$$$$)
finally got her home, and the expansion tank fell apart. Sigh. After buying the car for 5000 dollars, have probably already doubled that. But you know what? I still Love her! Not a cheap date, but when its all good-just Wow! What a car!
Cim is behind the wheel (columb integrated module). The ism is where the key goes (ignition switch module)
Has anyone cut a hole in the pan under the back seat to replace the sending unit?
I cut a hole and replaced the fuel pump on a 2000 9-3. Made my own tool to unscrew the access to the pump with a piece of pvc pipe. Not a horrible job, but I don’t ever want to do it again!
Opel or buic
i got 4 SAAB before year 2001 in my life and never got any of theses problems. my 2000 9-3 viggen is the best saab ever period! the only exception past year 2003 is the 2007 9-5
actually my viggen is over 300 km and still rock and no problem to start under -30 celcius
Hello Saab users I just bought a saab 2003 9-3 looking to troubleshoot... So upon purchase previous owner stated car has been in a low impact front end collision. The car hasnt started for a year and owner suggested it need a fuse replaced due to kill switch based on the cars safety when in accidents. Does anyone have experience with this vehicle and if so would you be willing to help me avoid investing unnecessary funds into parts not needed thank you in advance
Another thing you might add (might not be common enough) Is ECU/ECM failing after about 150 000 miles. The heat tends to get to them and we’ve seen 3 of them already this year and last year we had 4 go out on us. More likely to happen on 2003 -> 9-3 2.0t/2.0T
It is almost guaranteed to fail. When replacing it is wise to put heat barrier under it. Terrible design!
@@richardhoner7842 Yes! Although a better alternative would be to try to relocated to somewhere inside the cabin. Oh well got to love GM
do you or anyone else have any idea where i can find the correct speed sensor? ive got an 07 auto with a 2.0
Depends on what your issue is. In basic terms I believe the speed sensors in that transmission are used for shifting reference. The wheel speed sensor located in your left rear wheel hub assembly is what reads vehicle speed and relays to the speedometer.
I changed the ignition switch module myself for about 30 quid. Not exactly an expensive fix. My 93 aero is the most reliable car I've had. Mind you I've had some shite cars.
Did you re-program the system / keys - by yourself?
You forgot about the expansion tank on 2.8 leaking .
I been lucky 🍀 I never had any of these issue other then coils replaced them at 110k with plugs and full service . $800
A lot of the time this year and we lock malfunction is caused by a short because somebody's battery keeps dying causing a fault or a fuse to blow check the fuse it's a 15 it's on the left hand side on the driver side all the way up that is not blown there is ways to bypass your ignition and start the car without the keys
Forgot about the brake pump failure...
Even if the valves are worn they still run well.. it's only a problem when the engine is hot...and doesn't cool all the way and you try and restart... push the gas and its starts no prob
$40 replacement and 25 minutes of labor, tops.
They moved the ISM to the center console in 1969 to reduce the risk of your knee being jabbed by the key and lock assembly in an accident. It was moved to the standard position beside the steering column on the Saab 9000, but moved back on the Saab 9-5. Saab 900 and Saab 9-3 maintained the center console ISM throughout the 80's and 90's.
just got an 07 9-3 and have the same fuel gauge problem. Any tips or ways to work around it other than having it fixed?
Should a Saab go for $3500?
For front dent...
I have to check it out
$3,500
Front dent
Unknown milage
2007 convertible 2.0 t
@@jixdahac I bought my 2007 9-3 for $3300. 133k miles. Only issue was gas gauge not working. Not sure if that helps with your question
I had a 09 Saab 93 coolant pump gave on me cause it my piston and sleeves to burn causing my engine to blow
Hey I’m about to purchase a 2006 9-3 2.0 t Saab with 125,000 miles on it and the only thing the person said what was wrong with it is the gas doesn’t say how much is in the car ever, the first thing you mentioned in the video. I have a great mechanic that can figure it out. Is it worth it?
If maintenance history is good and body is in good shape I would definitely jump on that car. Those miles based on model yr is really good. While the fuel level fix isn't overly complicated, it can be a challenging repair. If you take it to a shop be prepared for them to only want to replace the entire fuel pump assembly and not just the float assembly.
Just a heads up/tip on a common cause of CIM problems. If the battery is dead, or weak from say, storing the car for a while.....do not ever try to jump/boost start the car. I have seen this destroy the CIM many times. Slowly recharge or replace the battery, and start the car normally. If you do need to jump/boost the car in an emergency, after installing the jumper cables, turn the key on to the run position, but don't crank it/start it. Remove the fuel pump relay (near the battery), and use a short jumper wire across the contacts to crank and start the car.
Now you tell me...😂
You have to think of Saab’s as very prissy Swedish girls. If you want a unique item, you have to be able to withstand the maintenance
or just keep manufacturer maintenance intervals to avoid things going bad... Intake valve issue is real only if you dont change oil properly and you are using cheap oil... Fuel gauge issue is typical for cars that are being ran dry before fill up. And so on. Coils are probably the only thing that is an issue by itself but then again, all modern cars have bad coils time to time...
WaifuRacer I just had to replace my 1st coil. I’ve heard the stock yellow tops are garbage, but I don’t plan on changing all of them until they go bad I guess
Yeah the sending unit for my fuel pump went when the car was like 7 years old lol
I have the 9-3 2002 2.2D, is has a GM Isuzu engine, so generally regarded as one of the most reliable (newer gen) Saabs.
The later 1.9 units were FIAT, which may explain why they are crap.
Well,my mechanic told me the 1.9 Fiat,Opel, turbo diesel is actually a good engine which I can confirm!The rest is GM crap!
I have a 390hp Biopower 2005 9-3 Arc, and have lost a few races due to misfiring coils. Pretty embarrassing and frustrating but atleast i have become an expert at changing them. Also it seems that the ECU has multiple personality disorder, some days it hits hard and really puts down some really aggressive power and sounds phenomenal and some days the sound and feel is totally different to the point that i have to reflash my tune onto the ECU then it's strangely back to where i want it. I've literally tried every brand of coil out there from OEM to Autozone to one's i can't even pronounce and although some work better than others, they ALL ultimately fail prematurely. Weird electrical hiccups once in a blue moon, constantly changing headlight bulbs which is almost as annoying as the coil issues but other than that the car is extremely reliable. Major thing to watch out for is prolonged misfires that will cause your cylinder head to warp from uneven heating and then your head gasket is toast, had to replace the original engine because of it, ignored signs of coolant loss and oil in the tailpipe and one freezing cold night the number one cylinder hydro locked and blew the cylinder wall apart.
The coils go bad in all the saabs and im pretty sure is common with volkswagon too
I owned two Saabs. A 97 900S that was ten years of trouble free driving and an 03 9-5 Wagon with the Turbo V6. After one year of monthly trips for repairs under warranty it was time to trade for a Subaru.
My 2004 9-3 is running great. The fuel gauge is just beginning to act up (when near full). I've found this car to be a great performer with just basic Mtc. When I get around to dropping the tank, will replace the pump & sender. Since fuel pumps may have limited life, I wouldn't want to drop the tank again.
What evidence do you have about '07 to 09 models having leaky intake valves? First time I heard this.
Best evidence is from owners and there experiences: www.saabcentral.com/threads/the-official-unofficial-07-09-intake-valve-tracking-thread.329066/
Thanks. Good to know if ever considering a later model year with this problem.
my '05 fuel gauge started acting up around 140k miles, and my '10 started at 80k miles... at lower tank levels it works again but I also set a trip meter to keep track of distance just in case
I will say, I had the Steering Lock Malfunction with my 04' 9-3. I saved a lot of money because luckily it was completely fixed by hooking up to a Tech 2 and doing a full hard reset of the ECU and digital components. What would have cost over $1000, only cost me $200.
Where do you get tech two upgrades? I live in the Midwest states. I don't want to pay a lot for these upgrades
@@josem1596 I'll have to check the invoice for you. Look for mechanics that specifically work on Saabs.
One other thing you can try is to disconnect the battery for a bit and then reconnect. That probably performs the hard reset that you talked about. I think I had to do that once or twice on one of mine when it got really cold and set that fault.
I have not heard of problems with intake valves, but there are problems with the exhaust valve on 2007-2009 non Biopower 2.0 engines.
The Biopower E85 engines have better valves and they are fitted on the later models, they should be direct replacements on the faulty models.
compression test should read 192 ish. Replacement valves due to the valve being made poorly and wearing out (not the seat as he suggests in video). Essentially the valve wears at the edge where it seats as its pulled up against the head to close. It causes compression leak. Replacements can be had from pre 06 2.0T's, biopower 2.0ts or cobalt SS supercharger models.
@@mizinoinovermyhead.7523 Went through this issue back when mine was around 120k miles, we replaced all of the values with higher quality units. My understanding is that you can expect it to happen around 120K, though average climate temps may cause it to happen up to 20k sooner (Florida) or 20k later (Alaska). My mechanic caught this very early so there wasn't any cylinder damage caused by the low compression.
LoL that you haven;t hit Gearbox Malfunction yet. That malfunction resolves around the throttle position sensor and the things it connects too. :)
i have a 2006 saab and the muffler just randomly fell off the trans is going out and it’s not reliable the gas gage went out and it’s just not a good car
They placed the ignition in the middle because of safety. In a crash, you can hit your knees on the key so they didn't want that and moved it in between the seats.
@AutoAutopsy did you ever see this?
Hi i have a 2003 saab outo and was driving along and lost all gears so i pulled up when it cooled down i had gear again but only for about 15 secons and would do the same go nowere and same again is it elictricle or internal
2:00. The easiest fix is to make your own access cover by cutting an almost full circle above the fuel pump leaving a little metal uncut which becomes the hinge. Once the new fuel pump is installed, the metal can be bent back down and sealed with duct tape. Sounds crude, but the duct tape is only isolating the interior from the exterior on top of the tank and because it's under the seat, it's not visible. 6:56. How can water rust an aluminum evaporator?
Between the core and the line bracket, a few metals are at play. Steel bolts screwing into the expansion valve cause rust as well as the line bracket (at least on the manual trans cars. I cannot speak for the autos). The core itself is aluminum, so corrosion would be a better term. Better explanation can be found here: ua-cam.com/video/qAymfxMcg5I/v-deo.html As for the gas tank, please don't cut a hole above the tank. 1.) You're by gas and fumes, so chose your cutting tool wisely 2.) the hard lines of the fuel pump need to be disconnected a ways away from the pump itself. You would have to cut a pretty big hole to trace where to locate the clips to remove the whole assembly. Hope this helps!
@@WeakestofWeeks You might be near fuel, but the fuel is in the tank and the fuel lines. There's nothing wrong with cutting near fuel unless the fuel isn't sealed from the atmosphere. As far as fumes are concerned, unless you have some sort of leak in your system, there should be no fumes in this area. If there are, you have a much bigger problem than replacing the pump/sender. Yes, you need to cut a pretty big hole, probably 8" or 10" in diameter. There are no clips holding the pump in however there's a metal ring that you have to rotate with the aid of a hammer and screwdriver. I really don't need any help as I remove these pumps on a regular basis. Occasionally, I find that the previous owner decided against dropping the tank and cut an access hole himself saving me a lot of time. By the way, the 9000s and the earlier 9-5s came from the factory with access holes and covers. Tell me, why do you think the fuel lines need to be disconnected a ways away from the pump?
@@frankhoward7645 Yes, you would have to cut a large hole for the tanks lock ring removal, but not all of the hard nylon lines are removable directly at the pump assembly. You would also need to cut another strip of metal 6ish inches towards the passenger side of the vehicle. The clip I'm referring to is a clip for the emissions system. It goes from the fuel pump assembly to near the charcoal canister. It's #14 on this diagram www.esaabparts.com/viewparts.php?searchpart=1§ion=514017047
It's really not difficult dropping the tanks on these cars, just make sure not much fuel is in it.
I just asked this question in another thread thanks for the info. Any advice on 06 9,6 4cyl non turbo. My friend is selling one that he just did the heads timing and water pump. Axles and breaks. Anything I should look for in that model?
Does any one know if the fuel gage problem is a necessity to repair ?
If you can live with a non-functioning fuel gauge then no it wont harm the car by not functioning. I drove around with mine not working properly for 3 months before I had the time to fix. I dropped the tank and just replaced the fuel level sensor for 40 bucks and didn't need to put a new $300 fuel pump assembly in.
I'm on my 2nd saab (07 2.0T 93, 08 2.8 93) with the fuel gage problem and never changed it. I got into the habit of resetting the mileage everytime I tank...
Have owned three 93s They do not catch fire. Much better than rubbish now, honestly
Yours might not have, but it's pretty common to see the 4cyl 9-3's listed on salvage sites with fire damage www.copart.com/lot/59641603/2008-saab-9-3-2-0t-il-chicago-south
All cars have coil issues with high mileage. But at around 50K is a bit premature.
The intake valve issue on the B207R engine (2.0T) was fixed as a running change mid 2008 production. 2009 models should be fine
That was not the case with mine. But it was made August 08. Previous owner had to do it for a hefty bill. I decided to buy it since it was already done.
GM?
The ignition modules, also go bad , on the 9-3 model, as well, or any car, for that matter. I have a 2007 9-3, 2.0T, and replaced all 4 at about 160,000 mi. One went bad, and I knew that the other 3 weren't far behind. The ones I purchased, have a limited lifetime warranty (I believe, that entails, for the original purchaser, and I plan to keep the car, since it is almost paid off! :)) They should last about 150,000+. I now have 3 spares, in my trunk, and a the tools back there to change them, on the road. Also, broken front springs, are a common problem. I had a 2 squeaky strut bearings, so decided to purchase 2 strut spring kits, (since the struts had a bunch of miles on them) from Eeuroparts.com (complete, and ready to install). When I removed the driver side, the bottom of the coil spring, was broken. This is common. The throttle position sensor, is also a common failure. Easy to replace, plug and play, and I recommend finding a re-manufactured unit. Not a bad price. I do have the valve issue, on cold start, which smooths right out, after a minute or 2. That will be my future project, (valve/valve seat replace) as soon as I get a backup vehicle. I do love the car! Nothing drives, like a Saab!
I did not get the "replaced all 4 at 160000 mi". Are you talking about Sparkplugs? I have similar miles on my 2007 9-3 2.0T, I want to do preventive maintenance.
The CIM is actually behind the steering wheel and the stalks plug into it not where you plug the key in.
I have 2007 9-3 turbo p2135 code anyone ever deal with this?
Ian: What is that code? Any other issues with your Saab?
Sounds like throttle body
Actually, for #4, SAAB placed the key there due to space limitations. The CIM is quite large, and would not fit in the column alongside the locking mechanism for the steering-wheel, nor would it fit behind the dash.
Since the plan was to have the CAN-BUS be part of the car as a new-at-the-time feature, they figured it was no problem to Unlock the steering remotely, even if the CIM was somewhere else in the car.
For the key thing, you don't really need to change the CIM if you lose your keys, you just need to pair a new key with the existing Module. OR, if your ECM goes out, you need to pair that with the CIM as well (ask me how I know THAT bit :)
Don't think this is correct. Because they have had the key down in the center console or on the floor for a long time. Way before there was any such thing as a CIM. In fact, one of the disappointments when they did the 9000 model was that they couldn't relocate the key to the center console area (that platform started out as a Fiat so it wasn't designed with the 'correct' key placement in the beginning).
@@michaelwalden5222 I stand corrected, thank you for explaining that.
So do most cars mate all cars have problems just finding our what and good vid thought
Saab made good reliable cars... then GM got involved, whereupon they became a GM budget parts bin car.
I'm speaking as someone who has had both!
I drove my 9000 Aero like a nutcase for 12 years putting over 110,000 miles myself (it had 70,000 when I got it) and it finally died because I didn't get a noise that was coming from the engine looked at promptly, so that's on me. Finally died with 184,000miles.
Replaced with....
My 2008 9-3 Aero ttid had the following issues show up within a couple of weeks of purchase (62,000 miles on it then); Losing water and very long time to start;
Blown head gasket
Leaky early version intake manifold (which should been replaced under a factory recall if i recall due to swirl flap failures) was replaced with newer plastic version, which I've been told is also now having issues with it's swirl flaps!!!!!.
As a precaution they also replaced the following (the engine was already in bits);
water pump
Piston rings
cam belt
Total cost if it hadn't been under warranty £2500
Since then it's now up to 130,000 miles, and its had;
Both turbo's and exhaust manifold replaced (they come as one big unit)
Both front struts
All four springs
A/C has failed
Multiple fan circuit failures
Tyre pressure monitor failure (system)
All four of the actual pressure monitors in the tyres have corroded and fallen apart.
Alternator failed.
DPF filter issues.
Central locking on drivers door intermittent
Central locking on rear passenger door intermittent
Central locking on rear driver side door always works, but most of the time the handles (inside or out) won't open the door itself) periodically the handles do work!!!???
I also get 'Limited Performance' warning with alarming regularity as there are yet more issues with the intake system.
Bound to be some other stuff I've forgotten.
In short I hate it, just can't afford to change it right now.
Ironically I haven't experienced any of the issues you've mentioned lol
Both cars had full main dealer histories
I don't think you nailed it really :) but at least some issues are mentioned, which is fine.
Pre-facelift (interior-wise) model 2003 to 2006 included, have issues with optical audio system, mainly the amplifier under the driver's seat. Also Xenon ballasts have issues, many times just need to be resoldered. Coils mainly on 2003 models are problems too for 2 liters.
Together with facelifted models, both have issues with front springs that can break on top or the bottom, does not affect the ride much, as it's an inch or two of the very end, but you'll start hearing noises. Door locks have their own brain sometimes after getting too old... Also rear lights may have issues with wiring and melted connector, needs replacement or at least resoldering. Things like automidding door mirrors going darker and darker or flaking black finish of mirror consoles or lagging misaligned mirror un/folding are not even worth mentioning I guess.
BTW, you being from the US make you completely ignore anything Diesel oriented :D 2.2TiD or 1.9TiD or TTiD that live their own problems mainly related with EGR, DPF, swirl flaps...