Regarding repairing the front piece, you can warm up your soldering iron, get one or two plastic strips, and melt them onto and into your broken plastic piece. Works really well and is enough strong to hold up. As for the sills, I flushed mine with hot water from a garden hose, and a lot of mud came out, despite near nothing on the outside. I let that dry for a full day in the heat, before spraying cavity wax into the sills. Some of my popers split and needed new ones. I also sprayed cavity wax on the outside of the sills, before reattaching the long plastic covers. No rust at all. Spraying the rust protection, I attached a long hose with a plastic end with small holes, at the end of a long tube, which I then inserted into the long sill. I then just withdrew it slowly, making sure I had a long think wide piece of paper underneath the sill on the asphalt, as it drips a bit at first. Highly recommended to do it this way. I used a silent compressor on a long extension to power it up. Really just took a few moments to rustproof both sides. Did the same on the doors, tailgate and the bonnet, plus where ever else I could get at a cavity of the car's body. Cheers. Redfox.
Did all that when my 59 FL2 was 10 years old. Had a tiny area of rust that I sanded back to metal and painted. It will be interesting to see what is there when she is 20 !
@@JustCallMeHorse I'm sure it did. We had to sell my wife's FL1 as the underside was covered in rust and the rear subframe came up as an MOT advisory. I'd never given it any underbody treatment though.
@petermorris3665 I've seen many videos of FL 1 with bad rust like you said, I'm happy mine didn't go that way.. plus in 22 years it's only failed twice on an mot.
Cracking vid mate! Seems to be a problem the sills across the Land Rover range I think. Took mine off today on my 2012 Discovery 4 and so glad I did as mine are in a right pickle but I think salvageable as the steel is still solid enough but plenty of surface rust. Side runners/steps seem to make it even worse.
Are there any drain holes in the sill? So when you Lanogard the inner sill how to prevent clogging/blocking the drain holes? (If there are any.) Great vids, plenty information and useful observations while doing the job. Cheers.
Those tyres look good on the FL2, nice and beefy. I know you have a lift kit fitted, what tyres are you running - I’m assuming they are 17” rims painted up?
Hi - useful video thanks - did you think about also removing the plastic pieces at the lower edge of the doors ? I accidentally popped one off once through carelessly placing a trolley jack - there was the same issue with mud
Regarding repairing the front piece, you can warm up your soldering iron, get one or two plastic strips, and melt them onto and into your broken plastic piece. Works really well and is enough strong to hold up.
As for the sills, I flushed mine with hot water from a garden hose, and a lot of mud came out, despite near nothing on the outside. I let that dry for a full day in the heat, before spraying cavity wax into the sills. Some of my popers split and needed new ones. I also sprayed cavity wax on the outside of the sills, before reattaching the long plastic covers. No rust at all.
Spraying the rust protection, I attached a long hose with a plastic end with small holes, at the end of a long tube, which I then inserted into the long sill. I then just withdrew it slowly, making sure I had a long think wide piece of paper underneath the sill on the asphalt, as it drips a bit at first. Highly recommended to do it this way. I used a silent compressor on a long extension to power it up. Really just took a few moments to rustproof both sides. Did the same on the doors, tailgate and the bonnet, plus where ever else I could get at a cavity of the car's body.
Cheers.
Redfox.
You mean the hoop which had broken at one end?
Another brilliant video with great tips! Thanks Scott very much appreciated 👍
100% doing this over the weekemd Scott, thanks yet again! Nothing better than FREE preventative maintenance.
Did all that when my 59 FL2 was 10 years old. Had a tiny area of rust that I sanded back to metal and painted. It will be interesting to see what is there when she is 20 !
I will be doing this over the weekend now. Thanks again Scott, Free preventative maintenance there. Thanks for the vid and tips.
My freelander 1 td4 is nearly 23 years old no rot or rust. I truckbed liner sprayed the whole underside that probably helped alot.
@@JustCallMeHorse I'm sure it did. We had to sell my wife's FL1 as the underside was covered in rust and the rear subframe came up as an MOT advisory. I'd never given it any underbody treatment though.
@petermorris3665 I've seen many videos of FL 1 with bad rust like you said, I'm happy mine didn't go that way.. plus in 22 years it's only failed twice on an mot.
My MY56 FL2 is has been showing surface rust for a decade. How much Jenolite do I need? 😆
Thanks very much. Your advice and videos are brilliant. Long may you continue. 👍👍👍
Cracking vid mate! Seems to be a problem the sills across the Land Rover range I think. Took mine off today on my 2012 Discovery 4 and so glad I did as mine are in a right pickle but I think salvageable as the steel is still solid enough but plenty of surface rust. Side runners/steps seem to make it even worse.
Nice valuable infor @Beaves
Are there any drain holes in the sill? So when you Lanogard the inner sill how to prevent clogging/blocking the drain holes? (If there are any.)
Great vids, plenty information and useful observations while doing the job. Cheers.
There are some holes but the spray lanoguard isn’t thick enough to block them
Looking good! Hope that should last for another 15 years with lanoguard on!😊 Hope the freelancer 2 got a name for it!
Those tyres look good on the FL2, nice and beefy. I know you have a lift kit fitted, what tyres are you running - I’m assuming they are 17” rims painted up?
Yes, XS 17” sprayed black with BFG KO2 2445/70R17 tyres
Hi - useful video thanks - did you think about also removing the plastic pieces at the lower edge of the doors ?
I accidentally popped one off once through carelessly placing a trolley jack - there was the same issue with mud
I’ve not done the door strips yet, will do those very soon and make a separate video on this
Really usefull video.. 👍
I can’t find the link for the replacement body screws and things..For the want of a better word..Any link?
See video description
Link to the black clips?
I have added links to the video description
the rust that causes issues isnt on the outside ,, its the inside that needs sorting
Yes, this is why it’s important to spray as much as possible through the holes on the sills
Are you the same guy that once owned the crazy madtech mini known as Boris?
Hi Ryan, yes, that was me, I remember you
@@BeavisPitsWow! It's been a while hope you're doing well