How to build Cornhole Boards the Easy Way-DIY Tips and Tricks
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Easy cornhole boards assembled with pocket hole screws. Also showing a couple of jigs that make leg placement and cutting easy!!
Link to kreg K4 system amzn.to/2t674yB
Link to the Kreg Mini amzn.to/2upYDBV
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Great video! How did you finish the top of the legs that go down to the ground? Did you flat cut or round them off? Would like to see, thanks!
Thanks for sharing!
One tip that might save you time since you’re already using pocket hole jig.
hold the top down by using pockets holes from the bottom rails up.
Man, I've hacked up some much 2x4 trying to get the legs right on my boards. Thanks so much for sharing! Great work!!
You’re a life saver! I’ve probably hacked up about $40 worth of 1x4s trying to get the legs right and that’s with watching all those other videos...thanks!
Glad I could help buddy!
This is only the video I’ve see the legs be done this way which is what I was looking for. Out of the thousands videos I’ve found the one.
I’ve never posted a comment to UA-cam but I just wanted to say thank you for posting this video. I’d a couple sets of boards with 2x4s and wasn’t happy with them. Saw your video about using 1x4s and gave it try. I think the 1x4s are the way to go. Also liked your simple jigs for the legs. So much easier. Great video.
using 2x4's made it heavy i found out
Does anybody else like the sound of a drill when the video is sped up? So cool!
THIS IS GENIUS!! I'VE BEEN MAKING THE ONES WITH 2X4 AND THEY ARE HEAVY AS FUKKKK!!!!!!
The shoe! OMG!!! You got yourself a subscriber with that one.
Great build! I have been looking to build a set and hopefully start making more and wanted to change it up. Thanks for the help. The only thing I would add is a small brace to the legs since I have seen them snap.
Great video bro. The best one I’ve seen by far. Getting ready to build my first set.
Great video, and thank you for replying to my previous question. I have another - on the jig you made to drill the hole, you said 1” down, and 1-3/4” from the side. I see your marks, but on the 1” down, the line doesn’t go clear to the top of the add-on piece, so I’m wondering is it 1” down from the very top, of just of the top of the board with a hole? Thanks again!
Nice tip on the angle for the leg bottom. I used the old way which wasn't too difficult, but yours is clever. I've had my video since 2016 just have not got around to editing yet.
Great video I really
Like the detail you provide as well as the explanation into what you are doing
Great video. Thanks. Idea maybe. You made a couple great jigs, so how about making one for that 12" measurement for the top of the board to the leg cut.
Thanks for the shortcuts on the jigs for the legs. I've built my first two cornhole boards and tried to do the whole "raising the board" idea. Using the bevel gauge was an awesome idea. Thanks!
Thank you kindly for recognizing your women viewers.
I also like the jigs for the legs, but when you fold the legs down It seems like it wont lay flat because of the leg jig used and no rounded edge. Can you show how that works?
good video. easy to understand. Now i am off to make a set of cornhole boards. :)
Used the jigs and things are now much smoother. Great Tip!!!!!
side note: can you use the one jig (the one for the bolt holes) for both purposes? So now you only have one jig? Just asking. Great Video!!!
Followed your method to build my first set of boards for a special senior Birthday present first board a little rough but the second much better, The Jig is a must bought the K5++Also built your jig for the leg's. Next step drill the center hole. Have already ordered the vinyl wrap from a friend who owns a print shop will post final soon?
That’s awesome to hear!! Can’t wait to see the final result!!
Great video. Have watched it several times and getting ready to make a set just like these using pine instead of 2 x 4's. Can't wait to try the jigs for the legs. I have made several sets in the past for myself and family but looking forward to trying these. I've never wrapped a set yet but want to try that also. You mentioned a link where they had a good selection. Can't seem to find the link in your comments section. Thank you in advance.
r3h60 my apologies. I've added the link to the description.
Even though I like the Eagles I still like the project 👍🦅
Thank you for this video! Very helpful! What brand is your nailer?
great advice on the plywood, I hadn't thought about the kerf cuts taking the extra material. I'm diggin' the Batman as well! LOL
MichiganWildcat hahaha. Batman for life! Yeah, the kerf isn't a huge deal but enough of a difference.
Just make sure Home Depot cuts them correctly .. I had to sheets cut wrong and one set was 1” off and the other 2” off. Then they said it’s the saw kerf lol.
you can hold the top on with pocket hole screws also
Great video. I’m taking your advice. I recently made a set with 2x4s and you are right, a little hard to work with and the set is somewhat heavy. Legs were the biggest issue. I wanted to ask if you had to do anything else to the top of the legs with those jigs you made? Thanks for sharing.
Just cutting off the Sharp corners that fit inside the board.
Thank you.
I do realize that the 12 inch measurement for the legs from the top to the bottom isn't the same as your final cut. Had you cut across according to the 12 inch mark you would NOT have gotten a perfect corner cut like you have. So is your 12 inch rise correct or not? Just being observant since I am building my own and came across your video. Thanks for sharing.
Great Video! Sounded like an F18 overhead. Where bouts is your shop?
Hi. Thanks for the video. What do you think about using 3/4 ply for the rails instead of pine. I have a bunch I can rip to size
As long as you don’t mind the look of the exposed edges on the plywood, it should be fine.
just watched the bevel gauge idea, much easier way to get the angle
MichiganWildcat amen! I knew there had to be a better way. So much simpler.
@@keycitywoodworks I like the bevel gauge idea BUT,, your drawing the line parallel to the table with the legs that are too long. Once you make the cut it lowers it all down and changes it to the wrong angle??
Great how-to video.
Are the legs flush with the side frames once they are folded up?
What brand of hole saw are you using? I'm having a bear of a time cutting my holes. I've tried my Dewalt 20V cordless and also a new Skil corded drill (with side mount handle) that I purchased specifically for this. I hold the drill as steady as I possibly can, start the rotation very slow and then slowly increase it a little. It invariably grabs, nearly breaking my wrists, but more importantly, screwing up the hole. Recently, it broke the chuck on the drill. You look like you have no trouble whatsoever, so I have to wonder if a different brand of hole saw might help me.
wow enjoyed your video but why didn't you pocket hole the top on just wondering
Bill Bowman it honestly just takes too long. Glue and nails are stronger than pocket holes alone. And, it would take longer just to drill the pocket holes than it does to glue, nail, fill holes and sand. Also, I sell these, and that many pocket holes adds more cost for no benefit.
How much do you sell these for? Roughly.
Great video what size gauge is the nail
I like this method I’ll try it
I copied this question from someone a year ago. "You compensated for the kerf loss from Home Depot when they split the 4’ x 8’ Sande plywood into 2 - 4’ x 4’ sheets but you did not compensate for the kerf loss when you cut it into 2 - 2’ x 4’ pieces."
Am I correct in cutting the short ends to 22 3/8" to compensate for the loss?
Your kerf loss should be 1/8” per cut. I made mine 23.75” per piece.
why not just let the person at Home Depot cut the board into 4 2x4 pieces for you instead of just doing them in half, that's even easier! Also, if you're making a lot of these, which it appears you are, why not make a template of everything, you don't need jigs that way. Make a leg to keep around, use it to mark your other boards. No need for all the trouble to find the angle every time, or make the jigs every time....I also agree with the commenter below who wondered why you didn't pocket hole the top down from the bottom, although if you're using wraps instead of paint, I guess that doesn't matter. I like to use 1x4 as well, to make them lighter. Good video, thanks for posting
Ch S you certainly can have HD cut them down for you. I just prefer to do it myself so that the tops are a precise size. Again, when it comes to pocket holes, they are time consuming and an additional cost. Glue and brads works just fine and are covered by the wrap or paint.
Great video. Question...
You put a board under the leg...when the legs are folded closed, is leg flush with the side rail, or is it offset? I would think a 3.5" side board and a 3.5" leg would would need to be mounted flush to the bottom of the playing surface and side board. Idk if that makes any sense or not. Lol
he just cut the corners off to clear
No, never use pocket hole screws for corn hole targets. They don't last after a couple of years. Instead, just use brad nails and glue! My .02 👍
you compensated for the kerf loss from Home Depot when they split the 4’ x 8’ Sande plywood into 2 - 4’ x 4’ sheets but you did not compensate for the kerf loss when you cut it into 2 - 2’ x 4’ pieces.
I have the same question. The short pcs should be cut to 22 3/8". Am I correct?
Couldn't you drill.a hole through your bigger jig and use it for both hole marking and frame marking?
Excellent video, thank you for making and sharing. Have you found any difference on the legs for stability with the way you make them, versus the same method with a length or pine spanning the legs and nailing or screwing them on to increase rigidity? I have seen several boards made both ways. Thanks.
Chris Ashby no. They hold up great. And the boards are overall so much lighter and easier to transport. Plus the finished product is nicer with pine instead of construction lumber.
Thanks man!!!! What is the width of the hole on top? I appreciate you bud!
6” hole. Center of the hole is 9”
From the top, 12” from the side.
@@keycitywoodworks thank you sooooo much!
Quick question what’s the point of wood glue if you’re doing pocket hole screws? Thanks in advance!
Whenever possible, I add glue to any joint. Wood glue is stronger than the wood itself once it’s dry. Just a double layer of strength.
Good shit brada...!
Observations: Why take the time to cut the pine frame pieces out of a sheet? That is what you said right?
Why use 1/2" ply when it's not nearly as sturdy (and has bag bounce) as 3/4". Why not use Kreg screws for the top? You've already got the jig, it doesn't take long and it's way cleaner. Plus no filling and sanding.
Knotty pine is not the best because it has a ton of imperfections and large knots. Select pine on the other hand is straight, has no knots and is essentially the same price.
Using a drill press to do the legs "and" frame holes is quick, and always perfectly straight and, again, stra
Lastly, it's way cleaner and faster to inset the frame from the top about 3/4" (like the ACO boards). There's never and sanding to try and clean up the edges. Just take a 3/8" router both top and bottom and you're done.
By sheet, I'm assuming you mean a 1x12. In that case, I buy them from a saw mill for 1.20ft for prime pine, virtually no knots. So, $9.60 for a 1x12x8 vs $5 a Board for 1x4x8.
I use 1/2" vs 3/4" for price reasons. A set costs me $40 to make as shown, I sell them for $80. Using 3/4" would increase my cost by 7.50 a set. Same for the Kreg jig question. While it is "cleaner" from the top side, most of my boards end up being topped with vinyl wraps so it's not really a concern, however if I were to Kreg jig the tops, using 32 per set, I again increase my cost by about $4 a set. And time wise, I does take some time to drill all the holes in a 2x4 sheet of plywood twice vs glue and Brad nails.
MrHilljohntimothy and I agree with insetting, but again, more time and equipment wear. On nicer sets (weddings etc) I will inset, but always charge more for these.
What kind of stapler/staples are you using? What is the size. I would like to get a Ryobi one as I have many Ryobi tools.
I use a Brad nailer for the top.
I have started making these and I am having issues with the 1 1/4 inch screw coming through the wood on the other side. Did you run into that and how did you fix the issue.
Jason Wallin if it’s blowing through then either the wood is thinner than 3/4” or your kreg jig isn’t set correctly.
Jason Wallin I think the 1/2” plywood is a little thinner than 1/2” if I remember correctly-if you’re using 1/2” plywood then 1” screws are appropriate to prevent blow thru!
how did you finish the legs on top?
did you round-over the top of the legs or did you do something different
nonyabusiness i usually just cut off the corners. Rounding them over works well, but’s it’s time consuming and when you’re trying to batch out sets, it’s time not well spent
How thick is the plywood?
Glenn Crocker 1/2" sanded plywood.
I noticed you didn't round off the legs in the inside. No need to?
Otherwise Great video! Very helpful!
nice video
It would have been nice to know what the angle measurement was for the legs. Is it not the same measurement every time?
No. The angle will vary depending on a lot of factors. Which is why I said to get yourself a bevel gauge so that you can measure your own.
Did you end up using polycrylic? Did it end up yellowing. I have painted boards I want to poly but not sure what water based product to you. Thanks in advance.
Catch11 i always use polycrylic. It’s stable. Doesn’t yellow and provides a great playing surface.
@@keycitywoodworks Thanks man
prop the whole board up with some paint cans or something so its 12 inches off the ground and overhang your leg on the side of the table, scribe a line, cut bam done
no bevel gauges or measuring legs
Jacob Miller I literally went into detail about what a pain it is to find a collection of items that are exactly 12”. I also make more of these in a day than most do in their life. So efficiency is the name of the game.
you gotta make a jig out of some scrap wood brotha thats not a pain really
What is that plywood called? I heard to use birch i couldnt make out what you called the plywood
Do you put any cross brace between the legs ??
Not usually. They don’t seem to need it. I don’t think it’s a bad idea though.
what are the dimensions of the bolts and washers- carriage bolt?, size of the
Wouldn't the angle of his legs always be the same? Couldn't he just cut each leg at the correct angle everytime with the same setting on his miter saw?
where and how do you sell these?
Why are the holes for the legs 1” as oppose to 1-3/4” from the top
NICk C that’s just what worked for me.
The main reason to use 2x4 instead of 1x4 is to meet the qualifications for a regulation board.
Regulation says each individual board needs to weigh at least 25 pounds and use either 1/2" hardwood plywood with a cross support or 3/4" hardwood plywood without a cross support.
Curious about the weight myself
how can i do the legs with out that gauge ty
Did you round the legs off that's under the boards?
+David Moss not usually. I just cut off the corners on the miter saw.
have you ever put the top of with kreg screws from the bottom?
+David Moss no. Realistically the glue would be a stronger hold than the Kregs. You'd be better off to clamp the top after gluing.
David Moss the reason I say that is because it's a lot of added time and expense to pocket hole the entire top on both boards when it's not really needed. Nails and glue is the fastest option, but like I said, you could
Glue and clamp the top and get the same result. And as far as strength goes, the pocket screws would fail
Before the glue, so it just seems like a lot of extra work to me for a limited benefit.
I guess that makes sense... what glue do you use?
You pay a premium price for wider lumber, the wider the more money. But you by 1x12 and rip it? Why don't you use 1x4, it's 3 1/2 inches wide already, cheaper, plus the labor you save from ripping and you don't have any waste?
ch11ew12y ch11ew12y no, you pay a premium for wide boards when buying them from a box store. When buying them from a mill, you pay far less. The 1x12’s in this video cost $1 per board foot, so $8 for an 8ft board. My local Lowe’s sells 1x4x8’s for $6. Therefore, it would cost me $18 to buy them pre cut.
what is a 1 by pine?
Peter Shields the 1 stands for the thickness of the wood. Typically written as 1x. The actual thickness of .75”. So, for instance you would see a .75” thick by 3.5” wide board listed as a 1x4.
Why No kickback on the Hole saw ?just bought a New Milwaukee Dozer Hole saw Blade after wearing mine out, wiped out two tops and about broke my wrist and I have done 100's of boards before. I took it back it was freakin dangerous ,
Mikey Broaddus I always just take it very slowly. And with the drill on a low setting. They can be a bitch
Hard to believe that a grown man listens to the Chipmunk's music....
Why not just make a template for the leg? Your already have the other jigs so you can make repeatable drill holes but if you just made an extra leg you would have a template to cut out multiple legs and as long as you're repeating the same process with the jigs it would be perfect every time. I made six sets of cornhole boards at one time and used a template for all the legs and made them all identical because I used spacers to make sure I had enough distance between the leg and the back of the board.
Good job. This sounds more like a humble brag than a question or suggestion. You should make a video about it.
I may, I Just made a set for my father-in-law and put a couple of pictures on Facebook and now I have a bunch of people wanted me to make them some. That's why I watched your video, trying to get some ideas on making the production simpler and repeatable. I love your jigs you made.
HTTR
Man I am so exhausted from hearing you talk, Your video is umm different. But okay.
Ok? Thanks, I guess.
Last week I took a dump in the hole and then my neighbors played and got crap on their hands.
Lame. I'm sure you didn't. But I don't think I'd want to be a neighbor to you anyway.
How thick is the plywood???
Dave Lick 1/2"