One potential issue with this is that it now leaves a gap that someone could use to pry the safe from the floor... This can be mitigated somewhat by putting the safe in a location where there are walls near it that does not give the potential thief room for pry bars long enough that he could exert that sort of force... In the end though, we can't really make something burglar-PROOF, all we can do is make it burglar-RESISTANT -- hopefully resistant enough that he'll go somewhere easier...
I'm researching this procedure now. I was thinking it might be feasible to pour a concrete "curb" around the safe if you're putting it in an unfinished area. Toss in a couple of rebar rods for extra extra security. Add this to a situation like you mentioned, a tight space, etc. And you should be good. Just my 2 cents.
@@biffjohnson2076 -- Tie the rebar in the "curb" into the slab to make it more difficult to break apart... Welding on some ridges (angle iron, rebar, etc) along the perimeter / sides of the safe about halfway between the bottom of the safe and the top of the "curb" would help also since it would mean that to pry it loose, a good portion of the "curb" would need to be destroyed... It won't prevent anyone who has unlimited time and access to tools, but it might slow them down enough to make them go elsewhere... Plus, a 12-gauge trip wire with the shell filled with cayenne powder makes it a bit more annoying for them...
If you’re worried about moisture going to the bottom of the safe just get some peel and stick vinyl flooring put that down first and put you’re safe on top of that a lot cheaper.
You bring up a great point! Beyond the Safe Savers ability to level the safe and act as moisture deterrent, the fact that it surrounds the bolt will gum up the blade of a sawzall to hinder cutting the bolt.
@@GunStorageSolutions please explain why this material would "gum up" the cutting blade? I would think a material with the hardness needed to support the weight you claim ,it would easily be hard enough to cut with a reciprocating blade to not "gum up" . Can you ensure this or explain how this material is designed to not "gum up"? This is also important to me.
@@winchester7391 Didn't you know that there is a layer of gum attached to the safe saver for this specific reason. 😂 Yeah, idk what gum up meant tho fr. weird term when talking about a sawzall.
Hi Mark, Great question. You could stack several safe savers if necessary. Obviously, too many could make the safe unsteady. Each Safe Saver can hold about 800 lbs, so you are definitely good to go with your current safe. Keep in mind our Safe Savers come in a pack of 6, so depending on your flooring you may need to buy 2 packages. Feel free to reach out to us via email info@storemoreguns.com if you have anymore questions.
If you are worry about humidity, flooding, and drilling into your concrete rebar. 1. Install next to interior walls. 2. Pour a concrete slab area at least 4-6 inches in height and enough area to cover safe. (Try to pour some close by a corner wall and directly on top of existing concrete to bond more to house foundation also watch a tutorial on how to bond existing concrete to new concrete) Drill concrete anchors for the safe to anchor on slab. Lay a nice thick sheet of plastic on top of slab 3. Put a hot rod dehumidifier inside safe. Use a hygrometer to keep moisture between 45 and 55%. Add a whole house dehumidifier if basement gets too humid.
One potential issue with this is that it now leaves a gap that someone could use to pry the safe from the floor... This can be mitigated somewhat by putting the safe in a location where there are walls near it that does not give the potential thief room for pry bars long enough that he could exert that sort of force... In the end though, we can't really make something burglar-PROOF, all we can do is make it burglar-RESISTANT -- hopefully resistant enough that he'll go somewhere easier...
I'm researching this procedure now. I was thinking it might be feasible to pour a concrete "curb" around the safe if you're putting it in an unfinished area. Toss in a couple of rebar rods for extra extra security. Add this to a situation like you mentioned, a tight space, etc. And you should be good. Just my 2 cents.
@@biffjohnson2076 -- Tie the rebar in the "curb" into the slab to make it more difficult to break apart... Welding on some ridges (angle iron, rebar, etc) along the perimeter / sides of the safe about halfway between the bottom of the safe and the top of the "curb" would help also since it would mean that to pry it loose, a good portion of the "curb" would need to be destroyed... It won't prevent anyone who has unlimited time and access to tools, but it might slow them down enough to make them go elsewhere...
Plus, a 12-gauge trip wire with the shell filled with cayenne powder makes it a bit more annoying for them...
@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire I like these ideas! Thank you!
@@biffjohnson2076 -- Anything worth engineering is worth *over*-engineering... :)
If you’re worried about moisture going to the bottom of the safe just get some peel and stick vinyl flooring put that down first and put you’re safe on top of that a lot cheaper.
Hi, do i need safe saver if safe is going on laminated wood floor?
Can I also put wheels under it?
Can you put these on a basement with thin carpet (say 1/4 inch thick with padding) and if so what kind of clearance would you get ?
Question. So if My floor requires what you call a tripod install, then what?
it would be great if you would cover how that works.
Good idea and good product but somebody can just simply take a sawzall with a Long blade and cut the bolts🤔🤦🤷
You bring up a great point! Beyond the Safe Savers ability to level the safe and act as moisture deterrent, the fact that it surrounds the bolt will gum up the blade of a sawzall to hinder cutting the bolt.
@@GunStorageSolutions please explain why this material would "gum up" the cutting blade? I would think a material with the hardness needed to support the weight you claim ,it would easily be hard enough to cut with a reciprocating blade to not "gum up" . Can you ensure this or explain how this material is designed to not "gum up"? This is also important to me.
@@winchester7391 Didn't you know that there is a layer of gum attached to the safe saver for this specific reason. 😂 Yeah, idk what gum up meant tho fr. weird term when talking about a sawzall.
Question: how many safe savers can you stack if your floor isn't level? Will they work for an 860lb safe unloaded and a lot heavier loaded?
Hi Mark, Great question. You could stack several safe savers if necessary. Obviously, too many could make the safe unsteady. Each Safe Saver can hold about 800 lbs, so you are definitely good to go with your current safe. Keep in mind our Safe Savers come in a pack of 6, so depending on your flooring you may need to buy 2 packages. Feel free to reach out to us via email info@storemoreguns.com if you have anymore questions.
If you are worry about humidity, flooding, and drilling into your concrete rebar.
1. Install next to interior walls.
2. Pour a concrete slab area at least 4-6 inches in height and enough area to cover safe. (Try to pour some close by a corner wall and directly on top of existing concrete to bond more to house foundation also watch a tutorial on how to bond existing concrete to new concrete) Drill concrete anchors for the safe to anchor on slab. Lay a nice thick sheet of plastic on top of slab
3. Put a hot rod dehumidifier inside safe. Use a hygrometer to keep moisture between 45 and 55%. Add a whole house dehumidifier if basement gets too humid.
Is it not necessary to support the middle of the safe?
Hi K Cooper, No it is not necessary to support the middle.
@@GunStorageSolutions thanks for the reply
You lost me when you started working with a "Stack-On" safe.
Definitely a low-budget “lockbox”
I wouldn't call it a safe