Thank you! I just bought a '95 Silverado with almost 250k miles on it, and your video gave me the confidence to just knock this out myself. The brake lights work now!
THANK YOU! Just replaced the switch on 1996 Chevy Tahoe 4 door 4x4 on 12/20/24. I have owned vehicle since 1998 so I am certain this was the original switch. There was LESS room to get tools in there with this model. Had to access area from behind the switch with short tools touching the firewall. Like many, cut my knuckles several times on sharp metal near firewall. I was determined NOT to remove the steering column. Used the same part number as recommended to get new clips at parts store and purchased new switch with lifetime warranty. I never want to do this again!!!
Your input still helping folks 7 years later thank you much! Also found out that if the brake light switch is moved too low or high and not set back straight in L shape that can also cause to be stuck in park. And if your really in an pinch and can’t change switch, with truck off just turn key slightly forward and start ignition Should be able to override switch and change gear out of park 👍🏽 god bless
Wow, same story. Had a nasty vacuum leak in my brake booster. Took it in to get it swapped. Now I have a bad switch. Thanks for the video. This will make things easier.
Thank you! The clip on 95 GMC vandura is in a no see area (drivers side of rod) you and your video gave me the confidence boost I needed to no longer be intimidated by that little clip! Thank you!
Thanks so much for this video. I also had my brake booster changed and have been driving around for the past few days not knowing my damn brake lights weren't working! Your video made the process of replacing so much easier. Thanks!
Same thing happened to my Tahoe, unfortunately it happened in the drive through of a bank so to get it out of park without being able to change that tight away, you can shut the vehicle off and turn the key on but not start it and shift into neutral and then start the car and it makes shifting into drive easy. 🤷🏻♀️🤷🏻♀️ just a tip I learned today. Also thanks so much For the video!!! This is seriously life saving info right here for anyone who can’t afford a mechanic!!!!
This is an awesome video! I must say be cautious around the steering column bracket as it’s very sharp. I attempted to get one of those clips out today and my hand slipped into the bracket. Long story short I ended up needing three stitches from it.
Loved the video, used another one to get it down to the switch. But this one made the change easy. Definitely recommend the hooked pick and a skinny mid length flat has to hold the clip in place while you pull on the ears.
Thanks man. I just looked up under there to figure out how the hell that comes out. I didn't even know my brake lights were out until I was rewiring one of our trailers. Should be no sweat now.
You don't need to bust those ears off. Take a small flat head screwdriver, put it in the slot and twist it. This will expand the spring clip and disengage it from the shaft. Use another flat blade behind the switch and gently pry out. It will pop off in seconds.
This was very helpful; however… budget a good hour to 90 minutes for this- you will cram yourself up in the firewall. Once located I just used the largest screwdriver I could fit in the space to pry between the retainer clip and the switch. Make sure you have purchased a replacement. Rotate switch up and Gently pry the switch off. There is virtually no slack in the electrical connector- gently disconnect. I ended up starting the connection with 2 hands and then just mashing one handed to make the connection. First time it made the switch come apart- just snap the two pieces with the brass clip in between back together. Get the new retainer clip started using fingers and tip of screwdriver then gently push the clip on with the driver blade. You know it’s on when there is no play between the switch and clip. From another forum- the parts house switches stink- get a backup from the dealer. I could see where old brass switch was worn and not fully engaging. New switch allows me to disengage from park. Good luck
Travis this was an awesome video. I loved all the tips. I didn’t have a cool sturdy pick like you but I used a slender long narrow chisel with the same kind of result. Thanks again - you saved me a ton of frustration 😊
I had a 98 for many years, replaced brake light switch a few times, but the last time it was the Hazzard button !!! It was hardly ever used, the power to the brake lights travels through the hazards first, And home boy from Canada wants to blame some body for an electrical part that worked when he left the mechanic, that's the type of fella that would borrow a power tool and brake it and not tell you when you have to ask for it back (steve!!)
FYI everyone, if you can reach your hand behind the brake pedal arm, then you can lift the switch off it’s snap and then start to pry by switch off the pin. The clip will slide off the end the pin. Take your time and be gentle. Took me 10 seconds or so.
Car mechanic "wrecks more than does good". Truth of the century. My old k1500 would be better if I never had took it to the quacks around here. I wouldn't let them put air in my tire now!❤
Thank u for put part number on or video. went to AutoZone they could not find the retainer so I give them the part number off or video An they had it in store if u had not add that they would never have found what I needed
I replaced the break switch in my 98 s10 the break lights still stay on. I tried to see if the plunger was being pushed in but honestly I don't see anything the rod just pops.on and the switch clips on over. what am I missing?
Rebecca Ingram yes that is exactly what I did. You did also re-click in the wiring harness? So someone else may chime in. This is the brake-switch replacement but there is also a brake-light-switch that I believe activates the lights. Possibly on the floor and simply pushed by the pedal maybe?
Travis Wheeler yes I put the wire harness back. the wires that come out of the switch then lead to a bigger box with more wires coming out, they seem to go in there then come out and go into a yellow clip. not sure what that is I'm thinking I have a wiring issue. but would like to know for sure before taking it to a machanic. I like to fix things my self and would kick my self in the butt if I found out it was something so simple
There is a ton off info the comes up if you just google it from. An under hood relay, to hazard switch being depressed 1/2 way, there is a actually plunger switch the maybe stuck near the brake pedal. You need someone to stand outside and watch your tails lights. Start wiggling wires under the column.
I have a 2000 Chevy blazer . The brake lights stay on when turning the key "ON" or starting the eng. I did replace a burt out bulb but cant find the problem yet. Fuses are all good and could it be a ground ??
Same thing happened to me. Took my truck to a radiator shop to replace radiator hoses replaced. My brake booster failed when I started my truck to leave radiator shop. Took it to another mechanic to have the brake booster changed. Now the brake lights and cruse control don’t work. Is that a coincidence or did the shop damage the brake light switch? I’m going to ask the shop if they will give me a break on the light switch repair. Yours is the best video on replacing the brake light switch . .
My 1995 GMC Sierra had a square metal spring type clip. I got it off easy enough, but a bitch to reinstall. Space was too tight. I bet the plastic clip was a production change to make things easier for the technicians.
It's not as hard to put that clip on the rod as your saying it is because it will only go on the rod from one side of the clip and it's as simple as lining the hole on the clip up with the rod and push the clip on to the rod and pull down on the clip so it locks in place so it takes literally about 4 minutes or less weather you're mechanically inclined or not.
Hey bud I like your video but you said one thing that upset me. I've been a mechanic for 35yrs and unlike the so called mechanic that worked on your truck I'm an honest mechanic and if I break something on a customer car or truck I repair it or replace it out of my pocket. So please don't generalize all mechanics to be like the guy who worked on your truck. Because we are not all that way. Thanks for the info on the clip
Thanks for the Reply. I have tried to edit my comment out but once it hits 100,000 views I can't trim the ending.....I totally did generazie mechanics as being bad people, wrong on my part. I was still kind of heated at this guy because he sent me away from his shop with no cruise, sometimes impossible to shift, and also no brake lights, and I had to figure it all out on my own over the weekend. Mechanics keep our world moving and we are totally screwed without these automobile geniuses.
You mention this pkg of clips is dorman Help #13808, and it's listed on oreillyauto,com under electrical and not brake parts....but locally only avail online. I FINALLY found it at napaonline.com under part# NOE 6351107 ---took a while and some luck to locate it because it's listed under 'stoplight switch retainers'. thanks for nothing napa. thanks for a great video (maybe just turn your camera sideways next time). perhaps you can add key word 'booster' to your video so others like me changing the power brake booster can see how to remove this friggen clip too.
So are you blaming a mechanic who's only fault was taking off a deteriorating, plastic switch to replace your booster? Not cool. Everything that is made of plastic in your older truck is gonna break if someone touches it. His only fault was not warning you that it very likely would break. The mechanic did not cause your truck to age and the plastic pieces to deteriorate.
Jason I totally agree with you it wasn't cool that he broke that part and put it back on broken! It was $10.00 and was probably the original. Also what wasn't cool was driving around with no brake lights, pedal clicking, no cruise control immediately after leaving the shop, I just didn't notice all the problems right away. That took alot of trouble shooting over time to figure it was that part. It's like doing a serpentine belt and not doing the water pump on a FWD car or changing out 10 year old tires and leaving 10 year old valve stems. Just common sense on the mechanics part. I hope my video helped you and your situation.
Unfortunately some people pass themselves off as mechanics who take shortcuts or don't double check their work. Most however are doing the best they can. If it was easy we wouldn't need mechanics.
This is the most failing part on my truck!! I have a '95 Tahoe. This part needs replacing every 2-3 years. Why?? I buy genuine GM parts. I've taken this part apart and it's a simple mechanical contact switch but still, once it's gone bad it can't be fixed but needs replacing. And because of the most ridiculous ring clip design I have ever seen and must have been deliberately designed to discourage home fixers, (which I have learned IS a GM goal in engineering), it makes me hate my truck!
Thanks for the Reply. I have tried to edit my comment out but once it hits 100,000 views I can't trim the ending.....I totally did generazie mechanics as being bad people, wrong on my part. I was still kind of heated at this guy because he sent me away from his shop with no cruise, sometimes impossible to shift, and also no brake lights, and I had to figure it all out on my own over the weekend. Mechanics keep our world moving and we are totally screwed without these automobile geniuses.
Four years later and you’re still helping people. There is hope for humanity!
Thank you sir!
A few bucks and time, fixed! Winning!!! 🙏🏼
Thank you! I just bought a '95 Silverado with almost 250k miles on it, and your video gave me the confidence to just knock this out myself. The brake lights work now!
And ur comment gave me just as much confidence ! Lets see how this goes
People helping people,@@ianwyatt2201; I love it!
After fighting for an hour trying to get that clip out, I watched your vid. Five minutes later it was in my hand!
THANK YOU! Just replaced the switch on 1996 Chevy Tahoe 4 door 4x4 on 12/20/24. I have owned vehicle since 1998 so I am certain this was the original switch. There was LESS room to get tools in there with this model. Had to access area from behind the switch with short tools touching the firewall. Like many, cut my knuckles several times on sharp metal near firewall. I was determined NOT to remove the steering column. Used the same part number as recommended to get new clips at parts store and purchased new switch with lifetime warranty. I never want to do this again!!!
Your input still helping folks 7 years later thank you much!
Also found out that if the brake light switch is moved too low or high and not set back straight in L shape that can also cause to be stuck in park.
And if your really in an pinch and can’t change switch, with truck off just turn key slightly forward and start ignition Should be able to override switch and change gear out of park 👍🏽 god bless
Good video. I can't believe you were able to get the clip in focus. This was the only video I found that showed the clip this clearly. Thanks.
Wow, same story. Had a nasty vacuum leak in my brake booster. Took it in to get it swapped. Now I have a bad switch. Thanks for the video. This will make things easier.
Thank you! The clip on 95 GMC vandura is in a no see area (drivers side of rod) you and your video gave me the confidence boost I needed to no longer be intimidated by that little clip! Thank you!
Thanks so much for this video. I also had my brake booster changed and have been driving around for the past few days not knowing my damn brake lights weren't working! Your video made the process of replacing so much easier. Thanks!
This video was absolutely correct and quick save me so much time!
Same thing happened to my Tahoe, unfortunately it happened in the drive through of a bank so to get it out of park without being able to change that tight away, you can shut the vehicle off and turn the key on but not start it and shift into neutral and then start the car and it makes shifting into drive easy. 🤷🏻♀️🤷🏻♀️ just a tip I learned today. Also thanks so much For the video!!! This is seriously life saving info right here for anyone who can’t afford a mechanic!!!!
This is an awesome video! I must say be cautious around the steering column bracket as it’s very sharp. I attempted to get one of those clips out today and my hand slipped into the bracket. Long story short I ended up needing three stitches from it.
Great video. The curved pliers are the trick to putting the clip back on. Job was 10 minutes total.
Thanks so much.
Thank you so much for your video. My mechanic couldn’t figure out how to get his hands to work together to get clip out. This was a huge help.
Thanks for posting this, it made it way easier than the last time I had to do this! I had it replaced in less than 10 minutes!
Loved the video, used another one to get it down to the switch. But this one made the change easy. Definitely recommend the hooked pick and a skinny mid length flat has to hold the clip in place while you pull on the ears.
Thanks man. I just looked up under there to figure out how the hell that comes out. I didn't even know my brake lights were out until I was rewiring one of our trailers. Should be no sweat now.
Good video thanks for taking the time.
You don't need to bust those ears off. Take a small flat head screwdriver, put it in the slot and twist it. This will expand the spring clip and disengage it from the shaft. Use another flat blade behind the switch and gently pry out. It will pop off in seconds.
You do realize there's zero clearance barely enough room for fingers up in there right?
Fast and straight to the point. Good form sir.
Your the fkn man dude. Great video doing mine tomorrow
This was very helpful; however… budget a good hour to 90 minutes for this- you will cram yourself up in the firewall. Once located I just used the largest screwdriver I could fit in the space to pry between the retainer clip and the switch. Make sure you have purchased a replacement. Rotate switch up and Gently pry the switch off. There is virtually no slack in the electrical connector- gently disconnect. I ended up starting the connection with 2 hands and then just mashing one handed to make the connection. First time it made the switch come apart- just snap the two pieces with the brass clip in between back together. Get the new retainer clip started using fingers and tip of screwdriver then gently push the clip on with the driver blade. You know it’s on when there is no play between the switch and clip. From another forum- the parts house switches stink- get a backup from the dealer. I could see where old brass switch was worn and not fully engaging. New switch allows me to disengage from park. Good luck
Travis this was an awesome video. I loved all the tips. I didn’t have a cool sturdy pick like you but I used a slender long narrow chisel with the same kind of result. Thanks again - you saved me a ton of frustration 😊
This is the best video on how to do this. Thank you for video
I had a 98 for many years, replaced brake light switch a few times, but the last time it was the Hazzard button !!! It was hardly ever used, the power to the brake lights travels through the hazards first,
And home boy from Canada wants to blame some body for an electrical part that worked when he left the mechanic, that's the type of fella that would borrow a power tool and brake it and not tell you when you have to ask for it back (steve!!)
Awesome video! Thank u so very much! You've GREATLY helped me
FYI everyone, if you can reach your hand behind the brake pedal arm, then you can lift the switch off it’s snap and then start to pry by switch off the pin. The clip will slide off the end the pin. Take your time and be gentle. Took me 10 seconds or so.
you damn right bro i took my truck to a Mecanic &he ended up broking the clip &he didn't put it back on it cost me more than what i thought 😎😎😎😎
This helped so much, thank you!
Thank you! All the other vids show the other clip!
Thx bro you the only one that showed me exactly the bull💩 I'm going thru 💯👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Thank you sir, you were a great help to me n my suburban🙏😁
Great angles. Saved me lots of time. Thanks!
Very helpful, thanks for sharing your knowledge
He’s got a great white north accent bud.
Video was helpful. Keep up the good work.
Car mechanic "wrecks more than does good". Truth of the century. My old k1500 would be better if I never had took it to the quacks around here. I wouldn't let them put air in my tire now!❤
Muy bien! Fácil y al punto ahuevo.. gracias
Thank u for put part number on or video. went to AutoZone they could not find the retainer so I give them the part number off or video An they had it in store if u had not add that they would never have found what I needed
im strugglin, mines a 5 speed manual, really really tight up in there
I replaced the break switch in my 98 s10
the break lights still stay on.
I tried to see if the plunger was being pushed in but honestly I don't see anything the rod just pops.on and the switch clips on over.
what am I missing?
Rebecca Ingram yes that is exactly what I did. You did also re-click in the wiring harness? So someone else may chime in. This is the brake-switch replacement but there is also a brake-light-switch that I believe activates the lights. Possibly on the floor and simply pushed by the pedal maybe?
Travis Wheeler yes I put the wire harness back. the wires that come out of the switch then lead to a bigger box with more wires coming out, they seem to go in there then come out and go into a yellow clip. not sure what that is
I'm thinking I have a wiring issue. but would like to know for sure before taking it to a machanic. I like to fix things my self and would kick my self in the butt if I found out it was something so simple
There is a ton off info the comes up if you just google it from. An under hood relay, to hazard switch being depressed 1/2 way, there is a actually plunger switch the maybe stuck near the brake pedal. You need someone to stand outside and watch your tails lights. Start wiggling wires under the column.
Rebecca Ingram Did you figure out why the brake lights are staying on I have the same problem
Thankyou for this video
my tail lights are out but my back window cab brake light work do you think it's the switch?
C'mon people read the damn description and quit complaining about a comment he apologized and all that yall just tryna find a reason to complain
I have a 2000 Chevy blazer . The brake lights stay on when turning the key "ON" or starting the eng. I did replace a burt out bulb but cant find the problem yet. Fuses are all good and could it be a ground ??
Same thing happened to me. Took my truck to a radiator shop to replace radiator hoses replaced. My brake booster failed when I started my truck to leave radiator shop.
Took it to another mechanic to have the brake booster changed. Now the brake lights and cruse control don’t work. Is that a coincidence or did the shop damage the brake light switch? I’m going to ask the shop if they will give me a break on the light switch repair. Yours is the best video on replacing the brake light switch .
.
Clean switch no need to buy new
Great job!
My brake lights won't come on unless I push the brake pedal all the way down. Could this be the problem?
Did Chevy locate such a thing in the most inconvenient place just to torture us
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All my break lights went out on my 95 suburban. What do you think the problem is?
Milton Grandison Fuse?
My 1995 GMC Sierra had a square metal spring type clip. I got it off easy enough, but a bitch to reinstall. Space was too tight. I bet the plastic clip was a production change to make things easier for the technicians.
nice vid
It's not as hard to put that clip on the rod as your saying it is because it will only go on the rod from one side of the clip and it's as simple as lining the hole on the clip up with the rod and push the clip on to the rod and pull down on the clip so it locks in place so it takes literally about 4 minutes or less weather you're mechanically inclined or not.
tanks great video helps a lot
Do you not need the white piece or the other black piece that comes in the pack?
To the wires face up or down?
Thank you!
thanks I'm let know if it works I have 1999 Chevy Suburban
k clements and?
Hey bud I like your video but you said one thing that upset me. I've been a mechanic for 35yrs and unlike the so called mechanic that worked on your truck I'm an honest mechanic and if I break something on a customer car or truck I repair it or replace it out of my pocket. So please don't generalize all mechanics to be like the guy who worked on your truck. Because we are not all that way. Thanks for the info on the clip
Thanks for the Reply. I have tried to edit my comment out but once it hits 100,000 views I can't trim the ending.....I totally did generazie mechanics as being bad people, wrong on my part. I was still kind of heated at this guy because he sent me away from his shop with no cruise, sometimes impossible to shift, and also no brake lights, and I had to figure it all out on my own over the weekend. Mechanics keep our world moving and we are totally screwed without these automobile geniuses.
what about for a 2004 Chevy suburban
You mention this pkg of clips is dorman Help #13808, and it's listed on oreillyauto,com under electrical and not brake parts....but locally only avail online. I FINALLY found it at napaonline.com under part# NOE 6351107 ---took a while and some luck to locate it because it's listed under 'stoplight switch retainers'. thanks for nothing napa.
thanks for a great video (maybe just turn your camera sideways next time).
perhaps you can add key word 'booster' to your video so others like me changing the power brake booster can see how to remove this friggen clip too.
Como lo hiciste wey no ví nada!.
Suck pain in the azz. Removing lower dash, fighting with retaining clip, space, busted knuckles. 😆
So are you blaming a mechanic who's only fault was taking off a deteriorating, plastic switch to replace your booster? Not cool. Everything that is made of plastic in your older truck is gonna break if someone touches it. His only fault was not warning you that it very likely would break. The mechanic did not cause your truck to age and the plastic pieces to deteriorate.
Jason I totally agree with you it wasn't cool that he broke that part and put it back on broken! It was $10.00 and was probably the original. Also what wasn't cool was driving around with no brake lights, pedal clicking, no cruise control immediately after leaving the shop, I just didn't notice all the problems right away. That took alot of trouble shooting over time to figure it was that part. It's like doing a serpentine belt and not doing the water pump on a FWD car or changing out 10 year old tires and leaving 10 year old valve stems. Just common sense on the mechanics part. I hope my video helped you and your situation.
Unfortunately some people pass themselves off as mechanics who take shortcuts or don't double check their work. Most however are doing the best they can. If it was easy we wouldn't need mechanics.
People are so quick to throw shops under the bus. I see this every day 🙃
This is the most failing part on my truck!! I have a '95 Tahoe. This part needs replacing every 2-3 years. Why?? I buy genuine GM parts. I've taken this part apart and it's a simple mechanical contact switch but still, once it's gone bad it can't be fixed but needs replacing. And because of the most ridiculous ring clip design I have ever seen and must have been deliberately designed to discourage home fixers, (which I have learned IS a GM goal in engineering), it makes me hate my truck!
Lol how is your bow tie white?
Bro dont sit here on the internet talking trash about mechanics like that. We arent all like that.
Thanks for the Reply. I have tried to edit my comment out but once it hits 100,000 views I can't trim the ending.....I totally did generazie mechanics as being bad people, wrong on my part. I was still kind of heated at this guy because he sent me away from his shop with no cruise, sometimes impossible to shift, and also no brake lights, and I had to figure it all out on my own over the weekend. Mechanics keep our world moving and we are totally screwed without these automobile geniuses.
Fustrating lol
You can remove steering shaft to make ez