i got my first lathe 6 months ago. Its amazing how much there is to know, and learn. I have no idea how id figure anything out without watching your, (and a couple others guys) videos. You are a true resource for me Mike. I sincerely thank you. I bought enough materials to make 2 of these texturing tools, so i was thinking, maybe youd like to come over here to Kansas and hang out in my shop some afternoon. My wife will make us tacos for lunch! Thanks again Mike! Im sure there are thousands of other people that youve passed knowledge onto. Thats legacy material!!!
Mike, you inspired me to make one of your fabulous rotary texturing tools. I managed to source miniature bearings and used aluminium rod, drilled out, for the tool holder. It was an altogether satisfying project and I get a real feeling of achievement to use a brilliant tool I actually made myself. Can’t thank you enough and stay safe.
I had never been to your web site and took time today to visit. Thank you for your service to our great nation. I am going to try and make one of these texturing tools.
Mike -- Thanks for the in-depth series on the rotary texturing tool. You have a number of texturing tools. In the next year or two, it might be nice if you were to compare and contrast the types of texturing tools and where you find each works the best.
David, I thought I had done that in my earlier texturing videos. I put them all in a playlist. If these did not accomplish what you had in mind, please let me know and I will look to doing more. Thanks for your continued insight and support.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Allow me to explain in greater detail. You have several videos, such as this one, that illustrate the use of a particular type of texturing tool. IIRC, in those videos you might make mention of an alternative texturing tool, but comparing and contrasting the tools isn't the focus. For example, in this video you briefly mentioned the Sorby spiraling and texturing tool, noting that one of the patterns produced by the tool you were using was similar to what you'd have expected from the Sorby tool. But, you didn't explain why you'd prefer one tool over the other for a particular application. In your arsenal, you have several different types of texturing tools, why? (Partly, like me, I suspect you just LIKE tools.) I suspect you'll pick up one in one situation and another in a different situation. So, I suspect you have more than one type of texturing tool for that reason -- depending on the situation, you find one fits the bill better than the others. Sort of like why you have both skews and spindle gouges. A spindle gouge can make all the cuts a skew can -- and more! But, a skew is better at some things (like opening a paint can). Another example, I have both sizes of Sorby spiraling and texturing tools. I also have a couple of chatter tools, one I made and one I bought. If I were making the suggested video, I might say that one of the things I like about chatter tools is that they are very quick and the patterns they produce are almost infinite in variety. Another advantage of a chatter tool is, if you don't like the result, the marks left by it are very shallow. You can easily remove them and start fresh. One of the things I don't like about the chatter tool is the marks are very shallow. If I want something that stands out more, I reach for the Sorby instead. My chatter tool gets a lot more use, primarily because it produces a result I like and is so much quicker (with the Sorby, I might need to change a wheel and the set up takes a little more time). But, if I could only have one in my shop, it would be the Sorby, not the chatter tool. With the Sorby I can cut a spiral. I cannot do that with my chatter tool. So, the Sorby wins because it does more. Now, maybe your playlist of videos has one that goes into this kind of comparison. (I hate to admit that, while I've viewed most of your videos, I don't remember them all.) If so, please forgive my poor memory. If it doesn't, I think some of your viewers might appreciate a video from you along the lines of what I'm suggesting. Please, don't feel obligated to make it! I'll watch and enjoy whatever you come up with on your own.
I will go back and watch them with your thoughts in mind. The content and basis for all three videos was taken from a club demo where the intent was as you suggest, compare and contrast each one showing what it would do and what I used each for and why. I am always looking for video ideas and am finding even if I covered it a few years ago, new viewers have not seen it and older viewers forgot most of it. I guess that is thing about getting older, like one person commented, "We can hide our Easter eggs and still have fun looking for them."
Mike…I believe that wood you used for a little color is actually Texas Ebony. It is also called Ironwood. Like all those figurines you see in specialty shops. They usually come from Mexico or here in Arizona?
Gooday Mike. Good video on texturing. I am not being picky but you actually use that fluted parting tool with the flutes down on the rest. It plays hell with sof rests but it does a relatively clean cut and is also good for small beads. Take care and stay well.
I hear ya, Ian. And I would not want to argue with you as you have far more experience on the lathe then I ever will. Your comment is similar to what another viewer commented on a video I did on thin parting tools. He provided the Sorby documentation www.robert-sorby.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/product_instructions/fluted_parting_tool.pdf which also indicated I was using it "upside down." However, based on my experience, my way works better for me at it provides better support at the tip reducing the chances for a leverage catch and as you pointed out, less chance of damaging the tool rest. I find the fangs seems to do their job either way. I raised my experience with Sorby by email. One of their experts replied (one I had actually seen demonstrating Sorby products in two club demos) saying he did not actually use the fluted tool and had little experience with it but would play with it. Afterwards he replied his experience was similar to mine and he would forward it "up the line" to see if they wanted to change their instructions. Of course we know how that went! Anyway, thanks for commenting and I look forward to watching more of your videos.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks for the reply Mike. I admit that I don't use the Sorby but the Henry Taylor which has a straight rather than angled flute and find that it is a little unstable due to the cutting edge being so high from the rest if you use it "upside down".
RE sanding sealer - you can make your own cellulose sanding sealer - it's just a 1:1 blend of a brushing lacquer (Deft or Watco) and generic lacquer thinner
Good poiint on thinning down for deeper penetration with regular lacquer. If you will also be doing sanding, I don't think it will have the cellulose that facilitates sanding.
Thanks for taking the time to provide input. Adding my subtitles to the bottom interferes with close captioning some viewers use. Putting them a bit lower tends to block what I am showing. Gracias por tomarse el tiempo para proporcionar información. Agregar mis subtítulos al final interfiere con los subtítulos cerrados que usan algunos espectadores. Ponerlos un poco más bajos tiende a bloquear lo que estoy mostrando. Visité Valencia hace muchos años. Comida maravillosa!
Hi Mike enjoyed your video, I wonder if you can help me ...where I can purchase the gild cream you used, Croma Craft or American Die Company? Thanking you in advance Jack Marashlian
Henry Taylor sells one woodturnerscatalog.com/search?q=decorating+elf&options%5Bprefix%5D=last Watch this video ua-cam.com/video/eBa2eYa5vVc/v-deo.html
Mike...I'm trying to locate the ball and flame burrs...all of my searches show double cut burrs. The ones you show are single cut. where can I get these burrs ? thanks
Hi Mike, Another great video. Question, after you added the gold past do you again seal it with some sanding sealer or another clear product to seal in the gold paste? It appeared in the video that you left it alone after application and I was wondering if it dries hard enough to not rub off when the project is handled. That paste is messy and it seems like something you would not want to get on hands or clothing when handled later on etc. Please advise. Thanks again, Myles
Yes, Gary. The link was at the end of the video and I put a link in the description. I guess this video just did not hold folks attention to the end. You were not the only one. 😉
I welcome any comments you have on using this tool. Click here if you missed the video on making one ua-cam.com/video/27QSh-_-Q-A/v-deo.html
....and after commenting on how to make the tool...I see the link you provided. Thank you again...
Liked that thin parting tool so much and since I am retired and cheap, I used an old carving knife and just took off the tip.
That will do.
i got my first lathe 6 months ago. Its amazing how much there is to know, and learn. I have no idea how id figure anything out without watching your, (and a couple others guys) videos. You are a true resource for me Mike. I sincerely thank you. I bought enough materials to make 2 of these texturing tools, so i was thinking, maybe youd like to come over here to Kansas and hang out in my shop some afternoon. My wife will make us tacos for lunch! Thanks again Mike! Im sure there are thousands of other people that youve passed knowledge onto. Thats legacy material!!!
Thanks so much! If I get out your way, I will drop by.
Mike, you inspired me to make one of your fabulous rotary texturing tools. I managed to source miniature bearings and used aluminium rod, drilled out, for the tool holder. It was an altogether satisfying project and I get a real feeling of achievement to use a brilliant tool I actually made myself. Can’t thank you enough and stay safe.
That is awesome!
Very nice demo Mike' appreciate the fine points and tips. -Mike
I appreciate that, Mike!
I had never been to your web site and took time today to visit. Thank you for your service to our great nation. I am going to try and make one of these texturing tools.
Thank you, Billy. I know you will enjoy it.
Great video Mike! Thanks for sharing. It's amazing how with some texturing tools the worse noise makes the best design!
Take care, Dave
True That!
dang mike, this video is so good i went back and watched the prequel again
I like your shop made reversable Tool handle. I've got to make one today.
I NEEDED the sanding sealer tip, thanks Mike. Love your to the point videos as I can get back to turning.
Thanks for sharing your expertise
My pleasure!
Mike -- Thanks for the in-depth series on the rotary texturing tool. You have a number of texturing tools. In the next year or two, it might be nice if you were to compare and contrast the types of texturing tools and where you find each works the best.
David, I thought I had done that in my earlier texturing videos. I put them all in a playlist. If these did not accomplish what you had in mind, please let me know and I will look to doing more. Thanks for your continued insight and support.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Allow me to explain in greater detail. You have several videos, such as this one, that illustrate the use of a particular type of texturing tool. IIRC, in those videos you might make mention of an alternative texturing tool, but comparing and contrasting the tools isn't the focus. For example, in this video you briefly mentioned the Sorby spiraling and texturing tool, noting that one of the patterns produced by the tool you were using was similar to what you'd have expected from the Sorby tool. But, you didn't explain why you'd prefer one tool over the other for a particular application. In your arsenal, you have several different types of texturing tools, why? (Partly, like me, I suspect you just LIKE tools.) I suspect you'll pick up one in one situation and another in a different situation. So, I suspect you have more than one type of texturing tool for that reason -- depending on the situation, you find one fits the bill better than the others. Sort of like why you have both skews and spindle gouges. A spindle gouge can make all the cuts a skew can -- and more! But, a skew is better at some things (like opening a paint can).
Another example, I have both sizes of Sorby spiraling and texturing tools. I also have a couple of chatter tools, one I made and one I bought. If I were making the suggested video, I might say that one of the things I like about chatter tools is that they are very quick and the patterns they produce are almost infinite in variety. Another advantage of a chatter tool is, if you don't like the result, the marks left by it are very shallow. You can easily remove them and start fresh. One of the things I don't like about the chatter tool is the marks are very shallow. If I want something that stands out more, I reach for the Sorby instead. My chatter tool gets a lot more use, primarily because it produces a result I like and is so much quicker (with the Sorby, I might need to change a wheel and the set up takes a little more time). But, if I could only have one in my shop, it would be the Sorby, not the chatter tool. With the Sorby I can cut a spiral. I cannot do that with my chatter tool. So, the Sorby wins because it does more.
Now, maybe your playlist of videos has one that goes into this kind of comparison. (I hate to admit that, while I've viewed most of your videos, I don't remember them all.) If so, please forgive my poor memory. If it doesn't, I think some of your viewers might appreciate a video from you along the lines of what I'm suggesting. Please, don't feel obligated to make it! I'll watch and enjoy whatever you come up with on your own.
I will go back and watch them with your thoughts in mind. The content and basis for all three videos was taken from a club demo where the intent was as you suggest, compare and contrast each one showing what it would do and what I used each for and why. I am always looking for video ideas and am finding even if I covered it a few years ago, new viewers have not seen it and older viewers forgot most of it. I guess that is thing about getting older, like one person commented, "We can hide our Easter eggs and still have fun looking for them."
Mike…I believe that wood you used for a little color is actually Texas Ebony. It is also called Ironwood. Like all those figurines you see in specialty shops. They usually come from Mexico or here in Arizona?
Thanks, Mike!
Fabulous...I can only try as I've been impressed by your expertise. Do you have a video showing how to make the dremel cutter tool ? Thanks again..👍
I do. There is also a handout on making one on my website.
When demonstrating texture you could easily make it pop for the camera with a touch of Sharpie colour marker. The gold wax was also good.
Thanks for the tip, George.
Gooday Mike. Good video on texturing. I am not being picky but you actually use that fluted parting tool with the flutes down on the rest. It plays hell with sof rests but it does a relatively clean cut and is also good for small beads. Take care and stay well.
I hear ya, Ian. And I would not want to argue with you as you have far more experience on the lathe then I ever will. Your comment is similar to what another viewer commented on a video I did on thin parting tools. He provided the Sorby documentation www.robert-sorby.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/product_instructions/fluted_parting_tool.pdf which also indicated I was using it "upside down." However, based on my experience, my way works better for me at it provides better support at the tip reducing the chances for a leverage catch and as you pointed out, less chance of damaging the tool rest. I find the fangs seems to do their job either way. I raised my experience with Sorby by email. One of their experts replied (one I had actually seen demonstrating Sorby products in two club demos) saying he did not actually use the fluted tool and had little experience with it but would play with it. Afterwards he replied his experience was similar to mine and he would forward it "up the line" to see if they wanted to change their instructions. Of course we know how that went! Anyway, thanks for commenting and I look forward to watching more of your videos.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks for the reply Mike. I admit that I don't use the Sorby but the Henry Taylor which has a straight rather than angled flute and find that it is a little unstable due to the cutting edge being so high from the rest if you use it "upside down".
RE sanding sealer - you can make your own cellulose sanding sealer - it's just a 1:1 blend of a brushing lacquer (Deft or Watco) and generic lacquer thinner
Good poiint on thinning down for deeper penetration with regular lacquer. If you will also be doing sanding, I don't think it will have the cellulose that facilitates sanding.
magnifico trabajo un detalle solamente los subtitulo pongalos un poco más bajos muy buen trabajo un saludo desde Godelleta Valencia España
Thanks for taking the time to provide input. Adding my subtitles to the bottom interferes with close captioning some viewers use. Putting them a bit lower tends to block what I am showing. Gracias por tomarse el tiempo para proporcionar información. Agregar mis subtítulos al final interfiere con los subtítulos cerrados que usan algunos espectadores. Ponerlos un poco más bajos tiende a bloquear lo que estoy mostrando. Visité Valencia hace muchos años. Comida maravillosa!
Mike, always learn and enjoy your videos, thank you. Where did you get the round clock showing in the background? Looks exactly like one of mine !
Garage sale!
Hi Mike enjoyed your video, I wonder if you can help me ...where I can purchase the gild cream you used, Croma Craft or American Die Company? Thanking you in advance Jack Marashlian
www.chroma-craft.com/ Craft Supplies has good choices www.woodturnerscatalog.com/ as Does Packards www.packardwoodworks.com/
Do you have a video on how you built your pointed tools
Yes, ua-cam.com/video/AMogaU6aiI8/v-deo.html I just now modified the title to make it more easily found using search.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning thanks
mike have you got a video on how to make the cove tool,,can you buy one rather than make one,,i have never seen one,,but its a great idea....
Henry Taylor sells one woodturnerscatalog.com/search?q=decorating+elf&options%5Bprefix%5D=last Watch this video ua-cam.com/video/eBa2eYa5vVc/v-deo.html
Mike...I'm trying to locate the ball and flame burrs...all of my searches show double cut burrs. The ones you show are single cut. where can I get these burrs ? thanks
There is a handout on my website with the dremel model numbers.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks...just ordered the burrs. My Diy tool is for 1/4 shank...so will order new bearings...thanks again
Hi Mike, Another great video. Question, after you added the gold past do you again seal it with some sanding sealer or another clear product to seal in the gold paste? It appeared in the video that you left it alone after application and I was wondering if it dries hard enough to not rub off when the project is handled. That paste is messy and it seems like something you would not want to get on hands or clothing when handled later on etc. Please advise. Thanks again, Myles
Generally no if it is inside a lid. I generally use Minwax Antique Oil for the outside of a box so would put at least two coats on the outside.
If you reverse your lathe and texture from the opposite side, will it reverse the direction of the pattern? Thanks!
Maybe. Something new to try.
Have you done a video on making that tool?
Yes, Gary. The link was at the end of the video and I put a link in the description. I guess this video just did not hold folks attention to the end. You were not the only one. 😉
And he drops it
I think it may have something to do with age. 😩
@@MikePeaceWoodturning we all will get there one day, bless him