Hey man I just want to thank you guys for putting this video out here. I have a 2016 F-150 5.0. In the summer I had experienced the rough idle, occasional stalls when in idle or park, engine was a bit noisy kind of like a diesel. It took a while before the check engine light finally came on and sure enough code P0022, which indicated an issue with the camshaft timing for bank 2. So I watched this video step by step and replaced both VVT solenoids. Bam!! the problem went away. About 2 weeks ago I noticed the same problems I was having before in the summer, occasional stalls, rough idle intermittently, today was probably the worst. No check engine light. I examined the VVT solenoids I replaced and noticed one of them is leaking oil internally. I have two suspicions. ONE, worst case scenario: is that maybe the CAM Phasers are causing the solenoids to go bad, I hope not because that's a huge job and I don't know if I'm skilled enough for a job like that ,also its very expensive. TWO, best case scenario: I just happened to buy a lemon solenoid from advanced auto parts that's leaking oil and it needs to be replaced again. Is there a way I can tell if it's the cam phasers once the valve cover is removed? I plan on removing the valve cover tomorrow and replacing the solenoids again. Thanks again and sorry for writing a book. Really appreciate all your help!
@@andrewshah10 thanks Andrew. My truck ended up with a CEL. Threw a P0012 code on my cheap scanner. Dealership changed both right bank VVT solenoids. No more stalling. Has more power but I detect a slight skip in the engine. Going to change plugs, clean throttle body then purge data and retime it.
I’m a mechanic and have seen this thread with no further comments to this fix so I’ll keep posting to try to help you guys. I just bought a 2015 f150 5.0 with 95k miles and had the same problem of rpm drop and stall at red lights or idle after the engine had completely warmed about 20 minutes or more. After testing the purge valve ( worked properly ). I ordered 4x OEM ford solenoids and replaced them today and have since not seen rpm drop or stall after my normal trip home. I don’t recommend using dorman solenoids since I have a lot of problems with their parts. The least I’d do is gates. Change your oil first and see if your problem gets less consistent. If it does then I recommend changing these. Will post more as I drive. Hope this helps.
How can you be sure it’s not the cam phasers? Im getting same symptoms on my 2016 5.0 but my check engine light comes and goes p022, hope it’s just the solenoids
@@Mike940D This is a hard one to be 100% sure on, which is also why you can’t really find a direct fix all when it comes to this problem on the internet. My truck would not throw a code unfortunately. It also had consistent oil pressure. Can you hear a ticking sound, rough idle or irregular oil pressure?
@@aronspurlock4966 no ticking, oil pressure is at 14psi at idle, forscan shows intake cam 24 degrees over retarded when it’s running rough. Im hoping it’s just the solenoids and not the phasers, it seems most people have luck with just changing the solenoids. P022 is the only code, which is intake over retarded
My 2017 5.0 is doing the same thing as what seems like everyone that owns these F150s are doing. Stalling and rough idle. I think im gonna bite the bullet and get new cam phasers installed and try that. You know Ford has to know that all these trucks are doing this. This is the first Ford I have ever bought and it will likely be the last. The truck has good power when its running right. But its super bouncey , vibrates like crazy and stalls after a highway job. Also iv already had to put a new converter and trans in it with only 100k miles. Crazy.
The 8 mm flange nut and stud on top of the 10 mm valve cover bolt is a problem. It is the most time-consuming part of the job. I needed to access the nut through the wheel well after removing the skirt, and I used vice grips on the stud threats to loosen the bolt, then disconnect the other end of the earth wire/ground wire from the firewall, then twist the valve cover bolt with 8 mm flange nut and wire end all attached. Had to replace it in reverse fashion, all connected and looking stupid. Tightened it down good and no leaks. Code went away. Driver side, Bank 2. The "earth wire" has a number on the label, "19A095". Also, "S081H." I would like to buy a new 10 mm valve cover bolt with the stupid 8 mm flange nut on stud top so it looks right, and I might have less of a problem the next time if there is one. Does anyone know how to ask for this part? I can't find it. Just the wire itself comes up in my Internet search. Thanks
Did the dealer ever end up replacing your cam phasers? That seems to be the issue with these. I need to talk to my dealer to see if they can replace mine.
I have a 2011 150 with the 5.0 its a gen 1 . I had p0014 code which is bank 1 exhaust cam over advanced , i pulled passenger valve cover pulled the vvt solenoids one of them the pin was stuck in the outward position . I pushed it down with my finger with slight force and then it would move freely again . I cleaned them with contact cleaner . I did not replace them because ford changed the plug in style in 2012 from 2011 . My question is would the vvt sticking cause a over advaned condition . It doesnt throw a code anymore but it does still at times has some pinging when under a load . But its not consistent it might do it then again it may not
I want to say it's ~25-27 lb-ft. I was looking at a F150 forum a few weeks ago. It seemed like some older models had a higher torque spec, like around 70-80 lb-ft - either that or I was reading something for a completely different part. Anyhow, I tried 80 lb-ft and sheared the bolts. Luckily, none fell in the engine! Sure enough, later on I found some thread where someone said it was 25 lb-ft or something
Honestly i enjoy the no talking its kindove therapeutic.
Thank you very much. My vct repair wouldnt not have been possible without this excellent video. Much respect.
I just change mine today. Passenger side VCT solenoid. Took me an hour and a half. It's my first time doing it. Thanks for the video!
How was it getting the line off
Hey man I just want to thank you guys for putting this video out here. I have a 2016 F-150 5.0. In the summer I had experienced the rough idle, occasional stalls when in idle or park, engine was a bit noisy kind of like a diesel. It took a while before the check engine light finally came on and sure enough code P0022, which indicated an issue with the camshaft timing for bank 2. So I watched this video step by step and replaced both VVT solenoids. Bam!! the problem went away.
About 2 weeks ago I noticed the same problems I was having before in the summer, occasional stalls, rough idle intermittently, today was probably the worst. No check engine light. I examined the VVT solenoids I replaced and noticed one of them is leaking oil internally. I have two suspicions. ONE, worst case scenario: is that maybe the CAM Phasers are causing the solenoids to go bad, I hope not because that's a huge job and I don't know if I'm skilled enough for a job like that ,also its very expensive. TWO, best case scenario: I just happened to buy a lemon solenoid from advanced auto parts that's leaking oil and it needs to be replaced again. Is there a way I can tell if it's the cam phasers once the valve cover is removed? I plan on removing the valve cover tomorrow and replacing the solenoids again. Thanks again and sorry for writing a book. Really appreciate all your help!
Andrew, any luck? Same problem as you started with. 2016 5.0 88k miles.
Any update? Same problem. 2015 5.0
@@williamclark3994 I ended up replacing all four vvt solenoids with motor craft parts. So far so good.
@@daver8298 i ended up replacing all four vvt solenoids with motor craft parts and am using 10w-30 full syn. Running much better!
@@andrewshah10 thanks Andrew. My truck ended up with a CEL. Threw a P0012 code on my cheap scanner. Dealership changed both right bank VVT solenoids. No more stalling. Has more power but I detect a slight skip in the engine. Going to change plugs, clean throttle body then purge data and retime it.
I’m a mechanic and have seen this thread with no further comments to this fix so I’ll keep posting to try to help you guys. I just bought a 2015 f150 5.0 with 95k miles and had the same problem of rpm drop and stall at red lights or idle after the engine had completely warmed about 20 minutes or more. After testing the purge valve ( worked properly ). I ordered 4x OEM ford solenoids and replaced them today and have since not seen rpm drop or stall after my normal trip home. I don’t recommend using dorman solenoids since I have a lot of problems with their parts. The least I’d do is gates. Change your oil first and see if your problem gets less consistent. If it does then I recommend changing these. Will post more as I drive. Hope this helps.
How can you be sure it’s not the cam phasers? Im getting same symptoms on my 2016 5.0 but my check engine light comes and goes p022, hope it’s just the solenoids
@@Mike940D This is a hard one to be 100% sure on, which is also why you can’t really find a direct fix all when it comes to this problem on the internet. My truck would not throw a code unfortunately. It also had consistent oil pressure. Can you hear a ticking sound, rough idle or irregular oil pressure?
@@aronspurlock4966 no ticking, oil pressure is at 14psi at idle, forscan shows intake cam 24 degrees over retarded when it’s running rough. Im hoping it’s just the solenoids and not the phasers, it seems most people have luck with just changing the solenoids. P022 is the only code, which is intake over retarded
@@Mike940D Only one way to find out and it’s a lot cheaper than phasers. Still no problems with my truck after replacing 👍 hope it’ll fix yours too.
@@aronspurlock4966 Thanks for the help, i ll let you know how i make out
My 2017 5.0 is doing the same thing as what seems like everyone that owns these F150s are doing. Stalling and rough idle. I think im gonna bite the bullet and get new cam phasers installed and try that. You know Ford has to know that all these trucks are doing this. This is the first Ford I have ever bought and it will likely be the last. The truck has good power when its running right. But its super bouncey , vibrates like crazy and stalls after a highway job. Also iv already had to put a new converter and trans in it with only 100k miles. Crazy.
How is your truck running after all repairs you have done so far?
The 8 mm flange nut and stud on top of the 10 mm valve cover bolt is a problem. It is the most time-consuming part of the job. I needed to access the nut through the wheel well after removing the skirt, and I used vice grips on the stud threats to loosen the bolt, then disconnect the other end of the earth wire/ground wire from the firewall, then twist the valve cover bolt with 8 mm flange nut and wire end all attached. Had to replace it in reverse fashion, all connected and looking stupid. Tightened it down good and no leaks. Code went away. Driver side, Bank 2. The "earth wire" has a number on the label, "19A095". Also, "S081H." I would like to buy a new 10 mm valve cover bolt with the stupid 8 mm flange nut on stud top so it looks right, and I might have less of a problem the next time if there is one. Does anyone know how to ask for this part? I can't find it. Just the wire itself comes up in my Internet search. Thanks
The fuel pump relay that you changed, was that the one in the fuse panel under the hood, or the one by the spare tire? Thanks and great video.
Did the dealer ever end up replacing your cam phasers? That seems to be the issue with these. I need to talk to my dealer to see if they can replace mine.
Great video by the way!
What is the vct solenoids torque specs? Please and thank you
How long does it take to do this repair?
What i the approx. cost to have this done?and how do I find a mech. in my area that can do this as well as you?
I have a 2011 150 with the 5.0 its a gen 1 . I had p0014 code which is bank 1 exhaust cam over advanced , i pulled passenger valve cover pulled the vvt solenoids one of them the pin was stuck in the outward position . I pushed it down with my finger with slight force and then it would move freely again . I cleaned them with contact cleaner . I did not replace them because ford changed the plug in style in 2012 from 2011 . My question is would the vvt sticking cause a over advaned condition . It doesnt throw a code anymore but it does still at times has some pinging when under a load . But its not consistent it might do it then again it may not
F 150 2011😢
dang this sucks. On the 5.4 its a 20 minute job. The hardest part being removing the rubber top that sits around the solenoid.
Check mode$6 under variable timing and see if anything out of max value while running rough. Might not throw a code but should show there...
Great Video
any more UPDATED news on what the dealer had to say???
i have a problem no check engine light, if wot engine losing power
Is there a torque spec for the solenoid bolts?
Yes. There is for almost every bolt on a vehicle
I want to say it's ~25-27 lb-ft. I was looking at a F150 forum a few weeks ago. It seemed like some older models had a higher torque spec, like around 70-80 lb-ft - either that or I was reading something for a completely different part. Anyhow, I tried 80 lb-ft and sheared the bolts. Luckily, none fell in the engine! Sure enough, later on I found some thread where someone said it was 25 lb-ft or something
over torque is easy and cracks the heads as a result
I got a code for the vvt solenoid its going to be the same process for me too
What code did you get?
LOL I am always flicking off my car parts as well when they for no reason are difficult to disassemble...