This is, without a doubt, the best overview I've found on the best way to install an aftermarket sub, LOC, remote, and amp in a 10th gen civic hatchback. I finally have some semblance of knowing what I need and how I might do the job in my own setup. I also really appreciate that you didn't just explain what you're doing, but WHY you're doing it THAT way. Thank you so much for this very thorough and high quality breakdown!
I'm glad you liked this video! I did indeed put some thought and time into explaining things. UA-cam often shows people just "doing" things without proper context. The purpose of my channel is not to entertain but to teach and I'd be a terrible teacher if I didn't explain the "whys" to everything I do :). Thanks for coming by!
I am a man of my word. When my fans ask I will try my hardest to fulfill what you want :). The bonus is my stereo sounds so much better with an amp in it. Share my video to anyone you know that would be interested my vid.
@@arthurhughlett2292 The line output converter is the LC2i and I've back fed the wires back into the subwoofer box where I snipped the connections from the factory sub. The reason why I did this is to ensure I don't compromise the factory connector in the event I want to put EVERYTHING back to stock form that I'd have no problems doing so. If you watch the install video again I go into detail on how and why I did it.
Great idea to use the grommet for the hood release, however, right above it is a capped half inch hole that you can use for up to a 0 gauge power wire. Pull away the insulation padding about a half inch above the hood release grommet and you will see it.
I've literally watched this video 50+ times. I watched it piece by piece as I did my own install. Very helpful. Thank you very much sir, I would not known what to do without your help
I am pretty confident you would’ve been able to figure things out. Just takes a bit longer when you’re not shown :). In any case thanks for the kind words and glad you now fully understand how to do the install!
Great tips. I've been wiring amplifiers in all of my vehicles for many years, and still took away some great info that not only helped with this install, but for many more to come. Thanks
Super clean install! Taking the time to wrap and secure all the cables is a great way to keep it neat/tidy. I liked the way you incorporated the bass boost nob into the existing pop-out panel on the far left lower side. Perfect spot to blend it into the lower dash. Great hack to make it fit into a tight spot too. I’m applying this to my 2017 Accord! Well done, sir!👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Also a note, if you are using 4gauge or larger wire it won't fit through the grommet with the hood release cable. Luckily, directly above the hood release cable like roughly 1" above there is plastic plug you can remove that provides another hole to route your power wire through. Just need a grommet or to drill out the plastic plug you remove from the hole.
That's a good point. I never actually have seen the larger 1" plug but if I ever upgrade my power cable from the small gauge that I used to a larger one I will consider that option. Thanks for sharing that knowledge.
Thanks for carefully showing us how to install this so clean and neatly. It definitely demonstrated that I need some patience when doing this. Also, it kinda scared me into not wanting to really do it, but I wouldn't trust anyone to do it as careful and extensive as you have.
Definitely not a bad install but I noticed a few things that should be done differently. 1) Power wires should realistically be run through the firewall and bundled with other wiring harnesses versus run through the fenderwell grommets which can allow moisture into the vehicle as the fender is not sealed off from rain in the same way the firewall is, considering the hood and cowl both have seals to prevent water ingress in the engine bay. 2) Power wires should be attached directly to the positive battery terminal. As it stands, you are powering the LC2i and that Rockford off the factory 8 or 10 gauge wiring from the battery to the fuse box, and it's not designed to handle the extra 15-20A nominal power you might be pulling on normal use. Connecting directly to the battery eliminates the possibility of stressing the stock power wire and it also eliminates the possibility of confusing the car's Electronic Load Detection and causing a fault. 3) While your LC2i is definitely a nice piece and has bass rolloff capabilities, your Rockford amp has the ability to accept speaker-level inputs and do its own signal step down, thereby almost completely eliminating the need for the LC2i. The LC2i can definitely be used as a signal clean-up and re-level if that's what you're looking for, but it was not entirely necessary and omitting it may have saved some time and effort, not to mention cost. Overall quite good, everything should work beautifully. and considering the significantly higher quality of the components used versus stock, it probably sounds pretty good too.
All great tips indeed and in my other installations I've done points #1 and #2 but for the Type R I decided to go a slightly different route to spare me the pain of feeding a wire through a grommet in the firewall. So far after all these years I've had no moisture issues but then again my car is a sunny day, summer with no change of rain type of car. I won't drive it in the rain if I can avoid it (yes I'm crazy). With respect to the battery cable. I actually did a current draw test on the amp before installing everything and I wasn't pulling all the much power with the volume and bass levels I was listening at. At most about 7-8 amps which the stock power cable would be able to manage. You're definitely right though, if anyone runs a larger amp then that CAN pose a problem. I wanted the cleanest install I could possibly have with my setup without having to rejig the power connector on the battery. The LC2i does do a better job of restoring bass rolloff but yes many amps have that built in and probably could've made do without it. Thanks for watching the vid and again, I appreciate the comments as it is definitely something to consider for others.
One of the best videos I've seen so far on youtube for sub/amp installation using a LC2i. Very well explained and professional. I'm preparing to do an install on my 2013 accord EX-L and this will help me a lot. Thanks so much !
I was able to fit the PCB from the ACR-1 into the switch blank vertically with a dremmel and a few attachments. Came out super clean... never would've even thought of it if it weren't for you. Thanks man!
I personally don't have a civic, but I was looking for a quality explanation on the LC2i and this video was of tremendous help to me. Thanks for the high quality content. Liked, and Subbed.
Glad you liked the video. I did an install in a civic sport touring and had to mount the amp on the tire jack cover so that it didn't impede the use of the spare tire Thanks for watching!
Glad you enjoyed the video. There are more Type R how to vids but been super busy with "life" that I haven't been able to post some of my DIY work on my car.
Hey just a tip, if you don’t want your power wire to run behind the front fender, you can find another grommet behind the battery that leads behind the clutch pedal. Nice video!
Awesome Video!!! Very clean and professionally done. Unfortunately I had my system installed by a professional because I found this video afterwards. But I enjoyed watching it. It was very clear and step by step DIY and it was informative. Thank you for the time and effort you put in to make this happen.
I set up the same amp and LC2i in my F-150. I’m pushing two punch p3 10’s and it is amazing. I like that you set the gain on the amp to zero. I will have to play with that. I am still tuning mine. Great video.
This is the best install video i have ever seen... i watched this for the ACR-1 and LC2i install portion but fount all of it very useful. I drive an Accord and it pretty much all applies.
Great video, so I'm wondering if you only hook up one set of speaker wires to your LOC (looks like you did the left channel), does the signal come out of both RCA's to go to the amp? I'm going to tap into my sub on my 2019 civic SI with a LCi1, to add 2 10s and have a mono amp, but not sure if you need both RCA's? Or to hook up both channels to LOC to get both RCA's to output to the amp?
Outstanding video. Detailed and quite comprehensive. I'm doing a similar install on a Ram 1500 and you gave me the idea of using the double-sided tape to help mount the LC2i and the amplifier. Thanks!
thanks! I'm pretty OCD about things so tidy and neat is important. I mean there is extra wires and such underneath the amps but I sadly can't customize certain cables so I'm relegated to shoving them underneath where its out of sight and out of mind.
Thank you very much for the thorough breakdown and run through of putting in your system. I can’t wait to get my subs and amp in since I already have my LC2i here by its lonesome. All internals we’re already upgraded in my 20 Accord Sport as well. Cheers!
glad you liked the video. I'm thinking of upgrading the front speakers next on my car as I find the tweeters harsh and sound like their clipping when driving to reference audio levels. I need to save up for a nice set of focals for my car but those are big $$$$.
Amazing Video Very Detailed But Quick Question... I Love How The Amp & LC2i is Hidden Under The Trunk Lid This Wouldn’t Cause Them To Overheat? I Just Ask This Since There’s No Airway There I Suppose...
while they do get warm on really long extended drives that due to the efficient nature of class D amps that they don't get really hot at all. Warm yes - but no warmer than normal operating temps. I did a 10 hour long road trip listening to music at fairly loud listening levels and while the amp was extremely warm that it was far from hot and certainly not a fire hazard by any stretch of the imagination.
I recommend changing that gain control out, for an RCA level input knob. I personally run SPL cartel, because they're linear voltage, but you don't want gain control, because they're more prone to causing equipment damage. Also, move that power lead, to a better spot, you're going to cut through the shielding, opening and closing your hood.
Interesting advice. Although my gain control isn't via RCA the gain is still managed via the LC2i which is somewhat like RCA gain control but limited to the what the main gains are set on the output converter. As for the power cable I can assure you it won't cut through. I've wrapped it in split loom, foam tape and then ty wrapped them to the chassis and I've done lots of clearance checks to make sure it wouldn't pinch. But as you've said it could cut through the insulation but I usually check things like that regularly to make sure wires aren't chafing anywhere. Great advice nonetheless.
@@piercedasian I just do this competitively and I'm installing an lc2 in my daily build. I have a little bit of experience and try to give advice where I can.
Hello. It's me again. I just got an LC7i. After doing a lot of reading, I see why this is necessary for multiple channels. No short cuts here. I am wondering something. The input signal to the Lc7i. Can I use the factory wires which are 22 AWG and tap into them and use that, or do I need to run new thicker wires like 16 or 18 gauge to the input starting from the head unit? I wasn't sure. I was thinking if this is just a signal, but again, not knowing how thick it needs to be to send a good signal to the LC7i. The good thing is, that I am learning. Thank you. Also, I see you have quite a few videos on Honda Civic, that's good. Furthermore, I like to thank you for your reply's. A+ in my book. A lot of channels advertise and give advice, but few respond.
No need to beef up the wiring in the car anywhere except making sure you size the power cable correctly for the amp. You don' need to change the wires for the door speakers or the signal wires. My advice is to not splice @ the headunit. You can buy an amplifier breakout harness online (there was a guy in civicX selling them) and that saves you from ever having to hack up your factory harness. www.civicx.com/forum/threads/amp-out-harnesses.60037/ The link I provided is to the thread where I purchased the harness from. Not sure if he's still making them or not but this is a GREAT way to NOT screw your car. If you sell the car, you can pull out the harness adapter and call it day :). Feel free to reach out anytime as I try my best to stay in touch with my viewers. Don't forget to "like" the videos as it does help my channel a lot!
I ripped out the entire stock sub housing and trunk liner. Bought a non R liner which fits OEM without a sub being there. Then bought a skar audio stealth box with JL 10TW3 sub.
Great walk though, thank you! Quick question of ya'll don't mind. Since the line converter accepts 2 qty sets of high level inputs and the sub factory only has 1 qty set of high level, do you just run it to either the left or right or twist the 2 positive together & the 2 negative together?
nope, I just fed the stock sub signal cable into the left channel inputs of the LC2i. No need to feed both left and right in b/c there is only a mono feed.
Final question, thank you for answering the other questions, where did you put the ground for the lc2i, did you use the same bolt or the black cable, and where did you get the power cable from the lc2i to the amp
Yep, I grounded the LC2i to the same ground as the amplifier. The black cable for the LC2i is plain old twisted copper wire you can buy at any automotive parts store.
Nice setup, very good information, I just hooked mine up today and I did not know that you need a fuse holder from the power cable to the amp. Can you tell me where you got the fuse holder and are the wiring 12 gauge? I used some 12 gauge sting ofc wire for my power and ground to my tap from the amp. I don’t want any fires in my car. Will an inline fuse work from the auto parts store. Let me know where you got yours. I used ofc wire for all my wireing and the 12 guage worked great for the lc2i, I know that is overkill, lol.i have to use the best wires.
A few things to clarify first. 1. You need a fuse for the main power cable as close to the battery's + terminal as possible. The reason for that is to protect the battery in case your main power feeder cable shorts to chassis ground. The main power feed cable for my amp from the battery is a large 8 gauge cable. 2. The power cable to power the LC2i is tapped off the +ve terminal of the amplifier and that needs to be fused with a 1AMP to protect the LC2i in the event of an internal fault of the LC2i. I got the wiring and large cable fuse from my local stereo shop. The smaller LC2i inline fuse was purchased from my local auto parts store.
Very cool. I understand this all. But what i must do with radio? Also for chinch signal ( radio/amplifier) 😊 pls help. I dont understand how to get the radio removed 🙈
You never have to remove the radio b/c there is nothing you can tap off from it that you can't get from the back. If you watch my other subwoofer upgrade video and this amp video that it is all you need to get the sub and amp in (for the sub only). If you want to do the other speakers then you have to tap into the factory amp which is in the right front kick panel and even that requires some detailed understanding on how to do it right.
I'm here for the LC2i shown in the thumbnail as I'm considering one. My '19 WRX needs LOTS of help in the audio department thanks to poor, unbalanced audio tuning on Subaru's part.
@@piercedasian yeah I got a new sub once again and now it works like is supposed to work, last one was probably defective product. Thanks for the vid man help me a lot cheers
great vid as usual..but I noticed the factory amp is still sending power to ur sub along with ur aftermarket amp because u tapped into subs speaker wiring instead of cutting the factory amp out to sub...my question is do u think it would be better to eliminate the factory sub out instead of having both factory and aftermarket amp working together??
Hi Neil I know you said to disregard your comment but just to clarify there is no way to properly by pass the stock amp and its perfectly fine to send an amplified signal into the LC2i. You're not "double amplifying anything" since the LC2i expects a "high level input". Within the LC2i it does is re-eq-ing magic and then spits out a clean flat sub signal to the external amplifier.
I understand the need for more power to drive the upgraded 2 ohm sub. You installed a 500 W amp that can cleanly push 2 12" subs. could you just have purchased a lower end aftermarket subwoofer that's a class below the one you installed to get better bass notes without having to add an amp?
No that isn't quite how things work in the audio world. Having lots of power reserves on hand means you have more headroom reserves to provide better control. The sub I put in is the same impedance as the stock one (2 ohms) but the magnet, voice coil and "mass" of the upgrade sub will require more HP (watts) to keep that heavier sub under control. The stock amp could drive the upgraded Rockford sub but at higher volumes it became apparently the stock amp was starting to clip and distort. This will ultimately fry the coils on the speakers and sub. Sizing a 500 watt amp for the sub only is in my eyes a very reasonable amount of power to properly and safely drive that rockford sub to respectable levels without ever clipping the signal to it. Using your 2 12" sub example - sure it will drive them but it likely won't drive them perfectly. At the louder volumes I would suspect that the amp will get super hot and start to clip. Lot of variables at play here but no matter what you can NEVER have too much headroom on an amp.
Yooo, thanks so much for this vid, man. Was looking specifically for a clean way to connect power to battery and BOOM! Props. I can’t wait to be boomin’!
quick question... for the lc2i, did you plug into the left or right speaker input? or both? im planning on tapping into my sub just as you did but wasnt sure where to plug it in. AWESOME videos btw
Going completely off of memory here but I believe the sub output wiring went to the left channel in on the LC2i. Glad you like my channel. You should consider subscribing as I do try to regularly post new content pertaining to all sorts of things.
do i need an lci2? i just got a new car and i took out my old sub and amp but they never installed an lci2, should i get one for my new installation? what exactly does it help with/do?
lol yes, it is indeed a factory mint CRX Si that rarely leaves the garage. It's old and it's new if that makes any sense and I'd hate to get into an accident or have someone try to steal my little car.
nope not at all. There is a LOT of clearance where I routed the cable. Key thing is to make sure rubbing doesn't cut through the wire's insulation as that would be a very bad and dangerous thing (engine bay fire). That is why the fuse is placed where it is placed. As close to the positive terminal as possible.
Just wanna say I personally never remove the center panel or seat belt on four doors. Just run a wire hanger or glow rod and tape your wire to it and fish it to opening once back panel is off. Saves time! I like working like a short, lazy, fat man. Smarter not harder. ;)
That's a great tip. While it wasn't difficult to remove the seat belt bolt from the centre trim that I opted to do so to show the audience what is behind everything. You're absolutely right that it doesn't need to be pulled to save some time and the potential to incorrectly retorque the seatbelt anchor bolt (critical in a collision).
Wish I could use the same mounting location for the amp in my Sport Touring, but we have a spare tire instead. Only thing holding me back is not being able to conceal the amp as I don’t want it to be visible, or interfere with the cargo area. Maybe I’ll take the spare out!? Nevertheless, I appreciate the in depth guide! It’ll be the blueprint for my upgrade!
Yeah, I actually did an install in the sport touring and the only logical place I could mount it was the spare tire jack cover of all places! While you'd think it would be a terrible place to mount it that it has surprisingly held up there very good. I had to do some mods to the inside of the truck cover but we've retained the spare tire and the trunk deck had to be only slightly modified.
Terrific and extremely helpful video! Just to confirm, a 12V connection somewhere in the vehicle must be also run to the "remote in" on the LC2i correct. Fuse box, 12V plug input, etc?
no need for remote in on the LC2i. Just piggy back power (but fused for 1amp) from the 12 volt amp feed that you ran from the battery to the back. The LC2i will use signal detect to turn itself on and then you wire the amplifier remote trigger to the LC2i remote out. The LC2i will sense the signal from the head unit, turn it on and then conversely the amp will turn on when the LC2i comes on.
@@piercedasian That's great!! Saves me from pulling my interior apart again lol. My local store only has 3A fuses, will that work for inline fuse or must it be 1A? Also, can I still use my JL's current bass attenuator knob instead of the AC?
A 3A fuse will work though I still prefer a 1A. In the event of a dead short either fuse will blow. The wiring used to wire the LC2i will most certainly be able to handle up to a 10A fuse safely but I like to err on the cautious side and put in the smallest value possible to protect the wiring AND the equipment.
Glad the pen idea worked. I actually got the idea from a CivicX forum member called "CTRMOFO". The credit all goes to him for coming up with that hack.
great vid! exactly the info i was looking for.. if i make one recommendation.. I'd probably use Tessa tape to wrap the plastic loom in, would add a nice layer that would prevent wire rattle and in warmer climates hold up better (coming from texas here). again great vid!
Interesting. I don’t actually know what Tessa tape is. Is it a fabric type tape? I wrapped all my wiring quite thoroughly even after I finished this vid. So far it has been holding up well but then again I drive like 3000 miles a year :)
I’m thinking I can just go positive on one side of the speaker and negative on the other side from the amp....it’s the wires used to make it 2 ohms from the prior videos that’s messing me up (leaving them there or removing them) Doing a positive to one side of the speaker and a negative to the other will make it 2 ohms if I’m not mistaken
it will depend on the speaker/sub you're using. If you have a dual voice coil sub that has 2 4ohm coils then you'd wire all the +ve together and conversely all the -ves together.
Hey man, great video. I know I'm late to the party but I'm finally going to pull the trigger on my 2017 Type R with this build. I wanted to ask two things: how's it holding up and problems with it after a few years? And how come your didn't use a distribution block instead of the 1 amp inline daisy you did? When I used to do stereos in college we used distribution blocks regularly and I used them for my ground and power for my comp cars all the time? I am not familiar with the LC2i so I am not sure if it was because of that? Thanks man, hope to hear back from you in a few days because I should be installing this in the next week. Happy new year!
Type R has held up perfectly. Granted I don't drive it in the winter and our summers are relatively short its hard to say. I worked for Honda as a mechanic a while ago and the Type R is a solid car b/c of its no-frill approach to its engineering. Not much to really go wrong especially the 2017-2019 years b/c the lacked any of the honda safety sense stuff. I didn't bother with the distro block for a few reasons: 1. It isn't necessary when you've only got one amp that is super efficient and doesn't draw a lot of juice like the old class A/B ones do. 2. I don't plan to add any more amps to the car. 3. The in line 1AMP to the LC2i is negligible as far as current draw is concerned. Given the wire is so thin to power the unit that it doesn't make sense to install a distro block for it. Same with the ground. There is a single grounding point in the back so the LC2i and the amp can ground there. 4. Cost and clutter - in MY specific installation less is more. I don't need to spend additional money on splices and blocks (more points of failure) and I know what my future plans are for the car which is nothing in the foreseeable future. IF I decide to add another amp one day then I can simply upgrade the feeder cable and install a distro block then. Hope that helps and enjoy your new ride!
This makes sense. I keep forgetting not to treat the LC2I as not an amp haha. Just one last question man, what gauge wire did you end up running for the inline 1amp fuse and the remote wire? They both seem thick, like 12 gauge? Why that thick for the remote wire or was it more of you just had wire to use because I've been there as well. Anyways thanks man, will be installing this exact build next week.
Hey Kenny, apologies for taking so long to reply. The wire I used for the LC2i is something like a 14 gauge wire. It draws barely anything. I used that wire just because that was what I had in the garage not because it was necessary. Stay tuned... I'm going to be doing a comprehensive video (permitted I have time and resources to do this) installing a set of top end Focal KX2 speakers, sound deadening and a Helix V Eight DSP/Amp combo. The Type's R's sound won't even be the same after I do that crazy upgrade. 8 channels of amplification of power with a top tier DSP to change a stereo that is "meh" to one that is WOW. Big project with big costs but I think it will be well worth it.
Aw man an E350 is super easy to install in b/c of the proximity of the battery. Just make sure you do not compromise the battery box if it is sealed and you wouldn't want a buildup of hydrogen gas in your trunk.
The only way to tell if the kicker comp 8” will fit will depend on the depth of the kicker. If you look at my description it will show the exact Ideal of Rockford sub I used. Look the specs up for that and compare them against the kicker you want to put in. Another sub had asked me to do a sound comparison video but I have been super busy that I have not been able to do a full fledged comparison of before and after. I promise I will get to that soon and post when I can. Stay tuned and don’t forget to click the little bell to be notified of new videos.
First off awesome videos and very clean install. Two questions I have for you is 1) Do you hear or notice any rattling noises considering that you mounted the sub into a factory, plastic enclosure? I’ve always used MDF sub enclosures but I was considering this option to save space in the trunk and not have a box. And 2) Does the bass from the sub sound evenly throughout the car even though the sub is mounted on the right side of the car?
glad you liked the vid! I honestly can't say that I really hear any buzzing from the rear. Totally agree that MDF is the way to go but for the sake of factory look and fit that I went the route that I did and I don't regret it. It isn't going to shake my fillings out but it is a DRASTIC improvement over the factory sub. Yes the bass is fairly even throughout the car. Only thing that is wonky is the sub sounds "poppy" when you've got the hatch open and you're in front of it - similar to being almost overdriven but yet when you're sitting in the car with the doors and hatch closed that it seems okay. Not the best description for you but that's the only way I can describe it.
In all honesty I probably would've went with the Rockford knob instead since it was so much smaller than the ACR1. The ACR1's advantage is that it decouples the dependency on the brand of amp you use. The challenge when using a bass knob with your amp is that say you fry your amp, then the matching bass knob for it may not work on another brand. When you use the ACR1 it will always control the source signal going to the amp. I guess in the long run it doesn't really matter much but I went with the ACR1 route b/c I got my Audio Control gear for cheap.
Hey great informative install I'm doing mostly the same ...but I just wanted to know what kind of window visors ur using ...I wanted weather tech but it's not avail for the type r..
Glad you liked my video. The window visors I'm using are the genuine Honda ones. I actually have the full detailed installation video on my youtube channel if you want to know part #'s are how to exactly install them properly.
Nice looking install. I have used the LC2i before, but not the remote knob. Does it just lower the gain through the LC2i, or does it actually control some sort of boost? Also, I assume because you tapped the wires that were going into the factory sub, that the signal you sent to the LC2i was actually coming from the factory subwoofer amp. Thanks!
The remote knob is basically the gain control at your fingertips. Yes you are correct that the LC2i is taking signal from the factory stereo’s sub amp output. That is actually why the LC2i is needed as these new fangdangled headunits do some weird amplification /EQing to the signals that messes up aftermarket equipment.
I am going to install the same amplifier very soon. Have you noticed any overheating issues with the amplifier being under the carpet in the trunk? Have you driven for many hours with a lot of bass and checked the temperature of the amp?
Question about the + and - sides of the speaker...with the speaker still being wired for (2 ohms) does it matter if you put the + and - on opposite sides of the speaker? (Talking about the wires coming from the amp to the speaker) I don’t think it does but in your subwoofer install video you put the + and - on the same side...in this video you have them on opposite sides of the speaker, thx
No, when you hook up a speaker it must follow the terminal designation. If you don't do that then your speaker/sub will be out of phase (meaning it is supposed to push out but it actually sucks in). There are odd exceptions when you'd wire a speaker backwards but this isn't one of them. In my sub's case I have a dual voice coil sub where each coil is 4ohms. They're supposed to be wired in parallel to achieve a total of a 2ohm load. If you're not sure about the ohms wiring on the sub (parallel vs series) take a ohm meter and touch the terminals that you would hook the amp to. You should see a nominal impedance of 2 ohms.
@@piercedasian thanks for the reply, I see what you’re saying about following the terminal designation but my question is more or less if I can put the wires coming from the amp (the + and -) in one side of the speaker..(but still have it wired parallel) similar to the way you wired the sub in your other video..the video without the amp. In this video you put the + from the amp on one side of the speaker and the - in the other side...I’m using the same speaker and a similar Rockford amp for my install btw...again, thanks for the reply and help
Thanks for the video! Could you please provide a link or description for the white plastic power wire holder you installed to hold the power wire under the hood near the hood latch cable?
There is no need b/c the LC2i has signal sensing and will provide the 12 volt trigger from the LC2i to the amp so no additional wiring back to the head unit required :)
yes I did :) I had to as the amp makes the sub so much better in ways that I can't even describe. The Type R is easy to install in since it has that foam tire blank tray that you can put things into vs. other civics that have a spare tire in its place. I'll be doing a sport touring soon so we'll see how that pans out.
piercedasian fantastic! I will do this once my 2019 Type R arrives this spring. I already have the amp and sub speaker - just need the car Your video has helped me so much! I own you a big thanks Love how you took your time and did a professional job - I will do the same Cheers!!!
glad you loved the video. Yes, take your time and do things right and you'll be rewarded with a nice looking and nice sounding system that is super reliable. Good luck on the car purchase.
for the signal, do you connected to the left or right side on the LC2i? also do you think regular RCA converter will work talking signal from factory subwoofer? Thanks, Sub and liked
I believe on mine I connected it to the "left" input terminal. RCA converter will likely not work too well using the high level signal from the factory sub's wiring. The reason why I used the LC2i is to put back the lost bass signals that result from the grabbing a high level output sub signal from the head unit. Some say that you can use an amp that has a built in high level input to achieve the same result but I cannot speak to that with any intelligence since I haven't tried that route on my 10th gen civic.
Just curious, I saw you tapped a positive wire into the engine bay's fuse junction box (near where the megafuse is located). Assuming you didn't blow the megafuse itself, did you ever come into problems with an electrical parasitic drain/ abnormal key-off load?
Hi Benito, the short answer - no I do not have any electrical issues or parasitic drain. Why would it if my equipment and setup is working properly? What people DON'T understand (and I've had some snarky comments) is that I'm technically piggybacking my amp off the main positive battery feed BEFORE the fuse box and I've done electrical load calculations based off of my amp and the factory wire from battery to fuse box will be able to handle the added load without much issue. I don't blast my music so the amp would draw VERY little current (I've hooked up an ammeter to the amp when it was cranked and it wasn't pulling much current so at low to moderate volumes it would be barely anything). I still fused the amp power cable close to the fuse box (as how one SHOULD do it if it were wired direct to the battery) so there is still short circuit protection for the amp. As for the mega fuse, my amp is wired BEFORE that. The reason why I went the route that I did is because the install is cleaner looking and the safety risk to the car and audio system won't realistically be much of a problem for my particular application. I would NOT do it this way if I were running more amps or a larger load as you could literally melt the main wire if you were pulling huge amounts of current. While I'm not an engineer or an electrician by trade, I do know more than the average cat when it comes to anything electrical which is why I'm 100% confident in my work.
@@piercedasian I genuinely hope my comments don't come off snarky. You did a good job and your setup is clean. It's more that I'm just talking shop since I'm pondering about an amplifier in my Civic too. Rockford Fosgate does make high efficiency gear so I'm pretty positive you won't run into issues with excessive power draw, especially with a fuse setup. No relay though? I'd figure this circuit would be a key-on only function. Might help protect the amplifier integrity. Then again, would you have to recalibrate any of the amp settings manually if it was so? Might not even be worth installing a relay at that point.
@@benitoloco899 No not snarky at all! I'm just saying my install according to some is controversial b/c it is technically NOT good practice other than to wire directly off the positive terminal on the battery. The issue really comes down to pulling power through the car's main positive cable that feeds ALL power to the car when an amp SHOULD have its own dedicated feed without piggybacking off other wires which is what I did. The wire from the fuse box to the battery is plenty thick, is less than 12" long so I'd rather have a clean install than a janky looking one. Call me vain :) No need for a relay b/c its built into the amp. The power cable is full time on but that's why the LC2i has a "remote" out terminal to feed 12v+ trigger into the amp's "remote" trigger to turn the amp on. This is why I don't have any parasitic draw on my audio system. It behaves exactly like stock with no funky hacks to make it work right.
@@piercedasian Cool 😎. Those LC2i output converters from AudioControl really come in handy like that. Will possibly consider it when I do mine on my Civic. Any reason you went with a 2 channel converter instead of 4? Don't get me wrong, AudioControl is a good brand. Me, I'd personally go with Rockford Fosgate's RF-HLC4 version if it's compatible.
@@benitoloco899 it was out of convenience b/c someone was selling a mint condition one on the cheap and I knew the LC2i is a great product. The Rockford RF-HLC4 issue that is purely a hi level input to low level RCA output converter and lacks and re-eq signal restoration back to the RCA outs. So in fact, the LC2i is a much better unit b/c it has the built in algorithm to take the messed up EQing from the factory head unit and restore the signal in such a way that "audibly" makes sense to an amplifier. What is really funky about modern head units is they do some weird signal processing and send a narrow range of signals to each speaker which is how honda makes the claim "500watt output" premium audio. They do so by fudging how the output is measured. That being said, an amplifier works best when a full spectrum signal is fed to it so the build in crossover in the amp can properly "tune" the low pass signal so the sound is predictable and there is no "suck out" or over emphasis on certain frequencies. The LC2i's unique trick up its sleeve is that it has intelligence built into it to re-eq the signal curve and restore the signal response. A line out converter does NOT do that which is why I went audio control. My next big project is a Helix DSP process/amp combo to drive al the speakers in the Type R along with a pretty high end focal front stage upgrade. Big money to me which is why it isn't happened yet. I have the speakers and the custom built break out harness from the stock amp connector but the amp/dsp combo unit is so so so expensive.
Great video very good details! Keep it up. Just some questions...So no need to get remote in for lc21 as it turns with speaker signal? Can you also provide what cables you used for each connection sorry my first install with and lc2i. TIA
Hey thanks for watching the vid! No need to remote trigger just set the LC2i to signal sensing and call it a day. A fellow member PMed me with a decent list of stuff to buy to complete the install. Power & Ground w/ fuse holder www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fos...8+gauge+power&qid=1566530288&s=gateway&sr=8-1 Interconnect cables: www.amazon.com/Hosa-CRA-202...interconnect&qid=1566531793&s=gateway&sr=8-17 Speaker wire: www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics...ZJ3D6J9WQ97J2SV38PGM&qid=1566531917&s=gateway 1AMP mini fuse holder: www.amazon.com/Qunqi-10Pack...i+fuse+holder&qid=1566532277&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Great installing and very nice video! I'm planning to install a sub on my 2017 CRV LX and it doesn't have a sub the back like your Civic. Do I have to remove the head unit to wire my amp (the signal wires)? If yes could you explain a little about how to do that please? Thank you so much!
If your CRV doesn't have a sub out then you'll need to remove the head unit and locate the front speaker outputs and then tap into that signal and feed it into your LC2i. Do you have the same exact headunit as another CRV that has the premium sound system? Do the higher tramline CRVs even come with a sub? If yes then you may be lucky and can tap into the sub output and pull signal from there.
@@piercedasian Thank you for replying, my CRV is a base model so it doesnt have the premium sound system(160-watt AM/FM audio system with MP3/Windows Media® Audio playback capability and 4 speakers), but the head unit is the same for other higher models. I'm not sure if the other trimline has a sub though. So best way is to tap into the front or rear speakers to the LOC and from LOC to the amp, right?
Very well done man. I am looking to replace the head unit with a 9" android one but I have the touring model with upgraded stereo and factory amp. Would you happen to know how I can make this work?
it will depend on the replacement head unit. If the new head unit comes with RCA outputs then you can delete the LC2i and just run your amp straight from the new head unit. If you don't want to go that route or you feel it would be more complicated then you can tap into the system exactly as shown as I would assume the aftermarket stereo would work the same as the factory one (as far as speaker outputs are concerned).
Generally not if you’re running a modern high efficiency class D amp. You’d have to run some additional amps or have gigantic ones before you need to consider a 2nd battery, larger alternator and adding caps to make up for the voltage drops from that kind of current draw.
Thank you so much for making this! I plan on attempting it with the same sub. I was wondering if you’ve had any issues with the sub bouncing on the factory grill at higher volumes? I read somewhere on a forum of someone having that issue with the Rockford setup.
no bouncing off the factory grill whatsoever. This could very well happen if you're over driving the sub b/c the rockford sub definitely has more "excursion" travel than the factory sub has. I don't push my sub to its limits so I can't speak to whether or not that would happen.
Hey bro not being racist but this video is why I love Asians, I worked with them when I was a sushi chef at a 5 star restaurant lol now turned automotive technician, but the detail of your install and everything is fantastic
Not racist at all! I've heard LOTS of people tell me that and while I am not one to discriminate, that I think culturally we are conditioned to work a little differently. I'm not saying I am perfect (far from it) but the mindset on how we approach problems might be different - perceived to be perhaps perfectionistic? Either way, the devil is in the details and those that care would WANT to see ALL the info so they get it right the first time. Thanks for watching!
@@piercedasian can confirm, my wife is Asian (Japanese) and she is like a tank. Nothing stops her, she's adorable, yet strong as an ox mentally. Always seeks to be the best at whatever she is doing.
@@crazytech5755 Yep, that doesn't surprise me to hear that. In the end, I was raised at least, to do things right and treat any work you're doing as if it was your own.
not sure if you have answered this question but, ive been looking at the thread from CTRMofo for a while and am still debating if i want to change all the speakers and subs since i want to keep the car relatively oem. what are your thoughts on each part of the set up ? meaning.. do you think it will be a significant upgrade if i just install an amp, or should i go and change all the speakers around the car as well. the question is derived from a cost saving saving standpoint but rather i want to eliminate changing out oem parts as much as possible. the oem sound system is rather lacking. thanks !
Ah yes CTRMOFO! Great guy! His setup is really nice and the sound improvement is likely significant - so much so that I'm debating on doing the same to mine. While I simply did a sub and sub amp upgrade that if you wanted to stay relatively OEM them do at the very minimum the upgrade I demonstrated in my video. If you find the sound still lacking then I'd then look at adding aftermarket amps to the stock speakers and see if you like it. You'd be amazed at how much better things can sound with improved amplification. If that is still NOT to your liking then the final step would be to upgrade to better speakers. Unfortunately with audio, the sky is the limit and what sounds good to me may not satisfy your wants. While I fully agree that going full aftermarket is really the only way to audio bliss that similar to what you've said, I try to stick to OEM as much as possible for cost reasons. It's expensive to buy GOOD quality equipment and even more expensive to buy high quality speakers. Not sure of what your goals are with your civic years down the road but I have my fingers crossed that my Type R 25 years from now will be worth something similar to the original Integra Type R so the less I mod it the better off I'll be. I save my money to invest in superior sounding audio for my home rather than in a car that I barely drive more than 5000kms a year. Each to their own but that's how I'd approach your specific problem.
Hi David, I actually did have a sound demo but the dynamic range of my mic is pretty crappy and my iPhone and gopro wasn't much better so i opted to not bothering showing a before and after sound as my viewers would probably tell me it sounds the same which it certainly doesn't. Maybe when I get more subscribers and views I can actually afford to buy a better wide dynamic range mic :)
b/c you need the LC2i to re-eq the signal back such that the sub operates in the proper frequency range b/c modern factory head units do some funky EQ'ing that clips the bass signal and thus not giving you the full range of bass you'd expect from the sub.
This is, without a doubt, the best overview I've found on the best way to install an aftermarket sub, LOC, remote, and amp in a 10th gen civic hatchback. I finally have some semblance of knowing what I need and how I might do the job in my own setup. I also really appreciate that you didn't just explain what you're doing, but WHY you're doing it THAT way. Thank you so much for this very thorough and high quality breakdown!
I'm glad you liked this video! I did indeed put some thought and time into explaining things. UA-cam often shows people just "doing" things without proper context. The purpose of my channel is not to entertain but to teach and I'd be a terrible teacher if I didn't explain the "whys" to everything I do :). Thanks for coming by!
You delivered your promise... Kudos to you. Will definitely make this my blueprint installation. Very well done. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
I am a man of my word. When my fans ask I will try my hardest to fulfill what you want :). The bonus is my stereo sounds so much better with an amp in it. Share my video to anyone you know that would be interested my vid.
You're *
@@piercedasian I realize it’s years later ,but where are the speaker wires you used for the line output converter?
@@arthurhughlett2292 The line output converter is the LC2i and I've back fed the wires back into the subwoofer box where I snipped the connections from the factory sub. The reason why I did this is to ensure I don't compromise the factory connector in the event I want to put EVERYTHING back to stock form that I'd have no problems doing so. If you watch the install video again I go into detail on how and why I did it.
Great idea to use the grommet for the hood release, however, right above it is a capped half inch hole that you can use for up to a 0 gauge power wire. Pull away the insulation padding about a half inch above the hood release grommet and you will see it.
That's a good tip. I probably won't take mine apart now but for future installs I will consider that spot. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you. I followed this video along with another UA-camr and finally got my amp and subs installed today, it took me 5 hrs.
Hats off to you, best walk through I have seen in a long time. Sub and liked!
glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching!
I've literally watched this video 50+ times. I watched it piece by piece as I did my own install. Very helpful. Thank you very much sir, I would not known what to do without your help
I am pretty confident you would’ve been able to figure things out. Just takes a bit longer when you’re not shown :). In any case thanks for the kind words and glad you now fully understand how to do the install!
Not sure if you are an expert but man you taught like a teacher. Very nice
Great tips. I've been wiring amplifiers in all of my vehicles for many years, and still took away some great info that not only helped with this install, but for many more to come. Thanks
Glad to help
Super clean install! Taking the time to wrap and secure all the cables is a great way to keep it neat/tidy. I liked the way you incorporated the bass boost nob into the existing pop-out panel on the far left lower side. Perfect spot to blend it into the lower dash. Great hack to make it fit into a tight spot too. I’m applying this to my 2017 Accord! Well done, sir!👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Glad it was helpful!
Also a note, if you are using 4gauge or larger wire it won't fit through the grommet with the hood release cable. Luckily, directly above the hood release cable like roughly 1" above there is plastic plug you can remove that provides another hole to route your power wire through. Just need a grommet or to drill out the plastic plug you remove from the hole.
That's a good point. I never actually have seen the larger 1" plug but if I ever upgrade my power cable from the small gauge that I used to a larger one I will consider that option. Thanks for sharing that knowledge.
Man... your setup looks if it factory OEM setup, so professional. Best video...
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for carefully showing us how to install this so clean and neatly. It definitely demonstrated that I need some patience when doing this. Also, it kinda scared me into not wanting to really do it, but I wouldn't trust anyone to do it as careful and extensive as you have.
Glad it was helpful!
Definitely not a bad install but I noticed a few things that should be done differently.
1) Power wires should realistically be run through the firewall and bundled with other wiring harnesses versus run through the fenderwell grommets which can allow moisture into the vehicle as the fender is not sealed off from rain in the same way the firewall is, considering the hood and cowl both have seals to prevent water ingress in the engine bay.
2) Power wires should be attached directly to the positive battery terminal. As it stands, you are powering the LC2i and that Rockford off the factory 8 or 10 gauge wiring from the battery to the fuse box, and it's not designed to handle the extra 15-20A nominal power you might be pulling on normal use. Connecting directly to the battery eliminates the possibility of stressing the stock power wire and it also eliminates the possibility of confusing the car's Electronic Load Detection and causing a fault.
3) While your LC2i is definitely a nice piece and has bass rolloff capabilities, your Rockford amp has the ability to accept speaker-level inputs and do its own signal step down, thereby almost completely eliminating the need for the LC2i. The LC2i can definitely be used as a signal clean-up and re-level if that's what you're looking for, but it was not entirely necessary and omitting it may have saved some time and effort, not to mention cost.
Overall quite good, everything should work beautifully. and considering the significantly higher quality of the components used versus stock, it probably sounds pretty good too.
All great tips indeed and in my other installations I've done points #1 and #2 but for the Type R I decided to go a slightly different route to spare me the pain of feeding a wire through a grommet in the firewall. So far after all these years I've had no moisture issues but then again my car is a sunny day, summer with no change of rain type of car. I won't drive it in the rain if I can avoid it (yes I'm crazy). With respect to the battery cable. I actually did a current draw test on the amp before installing everything and I wasn't pulling all the much power with the volume and bass levels I was listening at. At most about 7-8 amps which the stock power cable would be able to manage. You're definitely right though, if anyone runs a larger amp then that CAN pose a problem. I wanted the cleanest install I could possibly have with my setup without having to rejig the power connector on the battery. The LC2i does do a better job of restoring bass rolloff but yes many amps have that built in and probably could've made do without it.
Thanks for watching the vid and again, I appreciate the comments as it is definitely something to consider for others.
One of the best videos I've seen so far on youtube for sub/amp installation using a LC2i. Very well explained and professional. I'm preparing to do an install on my 2013 accord EX-L and this will help me a lot. Thanks so much !
Glad you like my video. Install in a 2013 Accord? Sweet. It will be a significant improvement over stock. Good luck with your install.
One of the best?
You should watch other videos
Nice job. Its good to see someone actually take the time to do a clean install and give a amazing step by step on how to do it! Hats off to you sir!
thanks for watching my vid!
@@piercedasian no problem friend!!! Keep up the good videosm
I was able to fit the PCB from the ACR-1 into the switch blank vertically with a dremmel and a few attachments. Came out super clean... never would've even thought of it if it weren't for you. Thanks man!
Very nice!
I personally don't have a civic, but I was looking for a quality explanation on the LC2i and this video was of tremendous help to me. Thanks for the high quality content. Liked, and Subbed.
Thanks for liking and subscribing to my channel.
Plan on doing the same to my sport. Very easy to follow along tutorial. I really appreciate the diagram you drew up.
Glad you liked the video. I did an install in a civic sport touring and had to mount the amp on the tire jack cover so that it didn't impede the use of the spare tire Thanks for watching!
piercedasian thanks for the heads up!
I'm gonna learn a lot from these walkthroughs you do cos mine is gonna spend plenty of time being worked on when I get it 🙂.
Glad you enjoyed the video. There are more Type R how to vids but been super busy with "life" that I haven't been able to post some of my DIY work on my car.
Hey just a tip, if you don’t want your power wire to run behind the front fender, you can find another grommet behind the battery that leads behind the clutch pedal. Nice video!
Awesome Video!!! Very clean and professionally done. Unfortunately I had my system installed by a professional because I found this video afterwards. But I enjoyed watching it. It was very clear and step by step DIY and it was informative. Thank you for the time and effort you put in to make this happen.
I set up the same amp and LC2i in my F-150. I’m pushing two punch p3 10’s and it is amazing. I like that you set the gain on the amp to zero. I will have to play with that. I am still tuning mine. Great video.
Glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching!
This is the best install video i have ever seen... i watched this for the ACR-1 and LC2i install portion but fount all of it very useful. I drive an Accord and it pretty much all applies.
Glad you liked the vid! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for all the hook up information.Today I will get an inline fuse for my new LC2i.I almost forgot about that.I got a 50 fuse for my amp.
Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching.
I'm impressed. Clean install and and precision tutorial.
Glad you liked my video! Thanks for stopping by.
Nice 👌🏼 very professional installation thank you for explaining everything everything so detailed 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great video, so I'm wondering if you only hook up one set of speaker wires to your LOC (looks like you did the left channel), does the signal come out of both RCA's to go to the amp? I'm going to tap into my sub on my 2019 civic SI with a LCi1, to add 2 10s and have a mono amp, but not sure if you need both RCA's? Or to hook up both channels to LOC to get both RCA's to output to the amp?
Outstanding video. Detailed and quite comprehensive. I'm doing a similar install on a Ram 1500 and you gave me the idea of using the double-sided tape to help mount the LC2i and the amplifier. Thanks!
Great to hear!
helped with my remote thanks! I wish I would have ran through that outside gusset instead of the inside the engine bay one
Glad it helped
Well done, boyou. You did it much cleaner than I did.
thanks! I'm pretty OCD about things so tidy and neat is important. I mean there is extra wires and such underneath the amps but I sadly can't customize certain cables so I'm relegated to shoving them underneath where its out of sight and out of mind.
Thank you very much for the thorough breakdown and run through of putting in your system. I can’t wait to get my subs and amp in since I already have my LC2i here by its lonesome. All internals we’re already upgraded in my 20 Accord Sport as well. Cheers!
glad you liked the video. I'm thinking of upgrading the front speakers next on my car as I find the tweeters harsh and sound like their clipping when driving to reference audio levels. I need to save up for a nice set of focals for my car but those are big $$$$.
Amazing Video Very Detailed But Quick Question... I Love How The Amp & LC2i is Hidden Under The Trunk Lid This Wouldn’t Cause Them To Overheat? I Just Ask This Since There’s No Airway There I Suppose...
while they do get warm on really long extended drives that due to the efficient nature of class D amps that they don't get really hot at all. Warm yes - but no warmer than normal operating temps. I did a 10 hour long road trip listening to music at fairly loud listening levels and while the amp was extremely warm that it was far from hot and certainly not a fire hazard by any stretch of the imagination.
This is a very great video. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this.
You're very welcome!
Wow best amp install ever. Super clean and very detailed
Thanks! I plan to do a DSP amplifier/processor install soon as I plan to do a big audio upgrade to my R soon.
Great install! I’m really thinking of doing my own install on my 17 civic
do it! So worth it!
awesome video very useful! im just coming to this i was wondering if these steps would work on a 2021 hatchback?
I recommend changing that gain control out, for an RCA level input knob. I personally run SPL cartel, because they're linear voltage, but you don't want gain control, because they're more prone to causing equipment damage. Also, move that power lead, to a better spot, you're going to cut through the shielding, opening and closing your hood.
Interesting advice. Although my gain control isn't via RCA the gain is still managed via the LC2i which is somewhat like RCA gain control but limited to the what the main gains are set on the output converter. As for the power cable I can assure you it won't cut through. I've wrapped it in split loom, foam tape and then ty wrapped them to the chassis and I've done lots of clearance checks to make sure it wouldn't pinch. But as you've said it could cut through the insulation but I usually check things like that regularly to make sure wires aren't chafing anywhere. Great advice nonetheless.
@@piercedasian I just do this competitively and I'm installing an lc2 in my daily build. I have a little bit of experience and try to give advice where I can.
Hello. It's me again. I just got an LC7i. After doing a lot of reading, I see why this is necessary for multiple channels. No short cuts here. I am wondering something. The input signal to the Lc7i. Can I use the factory wires which are 22 AWG and tap into them and use that, or do I need to run new thicker wires like 16 or 18 gauge to the input starting from the head unit? I wasn't sure. I was thinking if this is just a signal, but again, not knowing how thick it needs to be to send a good signal to the LC7i. The good thing is, that I am learning. Thank you.
Also, I see you have quite a few videos on Honda Civic, that's good. Furthermore, I like to thank you for your reply's. A+ in my book. A lot of channels advertise and give advice, but few respond.
No need to beef up the wiring in the car anywhere except making sure you size the power cable correctly for the amp. You don' need to change the wires for the door speakers or the signal wires. My advice is to not splice @ the headunit. You can buy an amplifier breakout harness online (there was a guy in civicX selling them) and that saves you from ever having to hack up your factory harness.
www.civicx.com/forum/threads/amp-out-harnesses.60037/
The link I provided is to the thread where I purchased the harness from. Not sure if he's still making them or not but this is a GREAT way to NOT screw your car. If you sell the car, you can pull out the harness adapter and call it day :). Feel free to reach out anytime as I try my best to stay in touch with my viewers. Don't forget to "like" the videos as it does help my channel a lot!
@@piercedasian I seriously appreciate your advice. Note taken on the wires and will reach out to this person. Thanks again
You're very welcome. Glad I could be of SOME assistance to you :)
I ripped out the entire stock sub housing and trunk liner. Bought a non R liner which fits OEM without a sub being there. Then bought a skar audio stealth box with JL 10TW3 sub.
Great video! Literally doing this on my 24 Pilot Elite!
Great walk though, thank you! Quick question of ya'll don't mind. Since the line converter accepts 2 qty sets of high level inputs and the sub factory only has 1 qty set of high level, do you just run it to either the left or right or twist the 2 positive together & the 2 negative together?
nope, I just fed the stock sub signal cable into the left channel inputs of the LC2i. No need to feed both left and right in b/c there is only a mono feed.
Perfect explanation of installing, but ive got a question... With audiocontrol unit, there was not presented alternator noises?
nope, none in my car.
Final question, thank you for answering the other questions, where did you put the ground for the lc2i, did you use the same bolt or the black cable, and where did you get the power cable from the lc2i to the amp
Yep, I grounded the LC2i to the same ground as the amplifier. The black cable for the LC2i is plain old twisted copper wire you can buy at any automotive parts store.
Nice setup, very good information, I just hooked mine up today and I did not know that you need a fuse holder from the power cable to the amp. Can you tell me where you got the fuse holder and are the wiring 12 gauge? I used some 12 gauge sting ofc wire for my power and ground to my tap from the amp. I don’t want any fires in my car. Will an inline fuse work from the auto parts store. Let me know where you got yours. I used ofc wire for all my wireing and the 12 guage worked great for the lc2i, I know that is overkill, lol.i have to use the best wires.
A few things to clarify first. 1. You need a fuse for the main power cable as close to the battery's + terminal as possible. The reason for that is to protect the battery in case your main power feeder cable shorts to chassis ground. The main power feed cable for my amp from the battery is a large 8 gauge cable. 2. The power cable to power the LC2i is tapped off the +ve terminal of the amplifier and that needs to be fused with a 1AMP to protect the LC2i in the event of an internal fault of the LC2i. I got the wiring and large cable fuse from my local stereo shop. The smaller LC2i inline fuse was purchased from my local auto parts store.
I missed the part where you got the RCA audio source out from the Factory stereo unit to the LC2i. Thanks
you're welcome!
Very cool. I understand this all. But what i must do with radio? Also for chinch signal ( radio/amplifier) 😊 pls help. I dont understand how to get the radio removed 🙈
You never have to remove the radio b/c there is nothing you can tap off from it that you can't get from the back. If you watch my other subwoofer upgrade video and this amp video that it is all you need to get the sub and amp in (for the sub only). If you want to do the other speakers then you have to tap into the factory amp which is in the right front kick panel and even that requires some detailed understanding on how to do it right.
I'm here for the LC2i shown in the thumbnail as I'm considering one. My '19 WRX needs LOTS of help in the audio department thanks to poor, unbalanced audio tuning on Subaru's part.
Good luck!
Great video but my sub only lasted 10 minutes 😅, the sub got de-cone some how idk if I got a faulty one or just push it to hard
depends on the quality of the sub. Sounds like it wasn't very high quality if you weren't pushing all that hard.
@@piercedasian yeah I got a new sub once again and now it works like is supposed to work, last one was probably defective product. Thanks for the vid man help me a lot cheers
you're most welcome. Glad to "hear" your sub is working :)
Great job.....but I don't have the type R...any suggestions on where I can tap power from speakers on my SI coupe
Holy crap you're going to save me a ton of work thanks!
Glad my video is going to help you with your install!
Hey nice install , how did you tune the sub? I have a similar setup and im wondering how you tuned yours
Excellent video, thank you for posting and i love the clean setup...
You're most welcome. Thanks for watching.
great vid as usual..but I noticed the factory amp is still sending power to ur sub along with ur aftermarket amp because u tapped into subs speaker wiring instead of cutting the factory amp out to sub...my question is do u think it would be better to eliminate the factory sub out instead of having both factory and aftermarket amp working together??
sorry disregard my comment.
Hi Neil I know you said to disregard your comment but just to clarify there is no way to properly by pass the stock amp and its perfectly fine to send an amplified signal into the LC2i. You're not "double amplifying anything" since the LC2i expects a "high level input". Within the LC2i it does is re-eq-ing magic and then spits out a clean flat sub signal to the external amplifier.
Thanks for making this video. Great video 👍👍
glad you liked it! Thanks for watching :)
Excellent clean and safe install, very well done video... thank you
Glad you like the video. Thanks for watching!
I understand the need for more power to drive the upgraded 2 ohm sub. You installed a 500 W amp that can cleanly push 2 12" subs. could you just have purchased a lower end aftermarket subwoofer that's a class below the one you installed to get better bass notes without having to add an amp?
No that isn't quite how things work in the audio world. Having lots of power reserves on hand means you have more headroom reserves to provide better control. The sub I put in is the same impedance as the stock one (2 ohms) but the magnet, voice coil and "mass" of the upgrade sub will require more HP (watts) to keep that heavier sub under control. The stock amp could drive the upgraded Rockford sub but at higher volumes it became apparently the stock amp was starting to clip and distort. This will ultimately fry the coils on the speakers and sub. Sizing a 500 watt amp for the sub only is in my eyes a very reasonable amount of power to properly and safely drive that rockford sub to respectable levels without ever clipping the signal to it. Using your 2 12" sub example - sure it will drive them but it likely won't drive them perfectly. At the louder volumes I would suspect that the amp will get super hot and start to clip. Lot of variables at play here but no matter what you can NEVER have too much headroom on an amp.
Yooo, thanks so much for this vid, man. Was looking specifically for a clean way to connect power to battery and BOOM! Props. I can’t wait to be boomin’!
I'm about to order one myself for my maxima I have 2 w6 12 and a 500/1
Glad I could help!
quick question... for the lc2i, did you plug into the left or right speaker input? or both? im planning on tapping into my sub just as you did but wasnt sure where to plug it in. AWESOME videos btw
Going completely off of memory here but I believe the sub output wiring went to the left channel in on the LC2i. Glad you like my channel. You should consider subscribing as I do try to regularly post new content pertaining to all sorts of things.
piercedasian great thank you, & I just did!
awesome thanks!
@@piercedasian so do u actually get output signals from both rca's? Having only given the lc2i a single channel input? Sorry, just curious
@@TheBlackz05 @piercedasian I'm curious about this as well.
do i need an lci2? i just got a new car and i took out my old sub and amp but they never installed an lci2, should i get one for my new installation? what exactly does it help with/do?
That Crx si tho 🔥👍🏼👍🏼 good video btw! Subscribed bro
lol yes, it is indeed a factory mint CRX Si that rarely leaves the garage. It's old and it's new if that makes any sense and I'd hate to get into an accident or have someone try to steal my little car.
piercedasian you should do a tweeter installation! I need help doing that to my civic Hatchback
Great job! Perfect explanation and easy to follow! Big thumbs up. I subscribed to your channel. Look forward to more videos. 👍
Glad you loved the video. I will try my best to keep making videos that hopefully cater to your likes.
Nice video. How you ran your power cable from under the hood, does it not get pinched when the hood is closed?
nope not at all. There is a LOT of clearance where I routed the cable. Key thing is to make sure rubbing doesn't cut through the wire's insulation as that would be a very bad and dangerous thing (engine bay fire). That is why the fuse is placed where it is placed. As close to the positive terminal as possible.
Just wanna say I personally never remove the center panel or seat belt on four doors. Just run a wire hanger or glow rod and tape your wire to it and fish it to opening once back panel is off. Saves time! I like working like a short, lazy, fat man. Smarter not harder. ;)
That's a great tip. While it wasn't difficult to remove the seat belt bolt from the centre trim that I opted to do so to show the audience what is behind everything. You're absolutely right that it doesn't need to be pulled to save some time and the potential to incorrectly retorque the seatbelt anchor bolt (critical in a collision).
Wish I could use the same mounting location for the amp in my Sport Touring, but we have a spare tire instead. Only thing holding me back is not being able to conceal the amp as I don’t want it to be visible, or interfere with the cargo area. Maybe I’ll take the spare out!? Nevertheless, I appreciate the in depth guide! It’ll be the blueprint for my upgrade!
Yeah, I actually did an install in the sport touring and the only logical place I could mount it was the spare tire jack cover of all places! While you'd think it would be a terrible place to mount it that it has surprisingly held up there very good. I had to do some mods to the inside of the truck cover but we've retained the spare tire and the trunk deck had to be only slightly modified.
Terrific and extremely helpful video! Just to confirm, a 12V connection somewhere in the vehicle must be also run to the "remote in" on the LC2i correct. Fuse box, 12V plug input, etc?
no need for remote in on the LC2i. Just piggy back power (but fused for 1amp) from the 12 volt amp feed that you ran from the battery to the back. The LC2i will use signal detect to turn itself on and then you wire the amplifier remote trigger to the LC2i remote out. The LC2i will sense the signal from the head unit, turn it on and then conversely the amp will turn on when the LC2i comes on.
@@piercedasian That's great!! Saves me from pulling my interior apart again lol. My local store only has 3A fuses, will that work for inline fuse or must it be 1A? Also, can I still use my JL's current bass attenuator knob instead of the AC?
A 3A fuse will work though I still prefer a 1A. In the event of a dead short either fuse will blow. The wiring used to wire the LC2i will most certainly be able to handle up to a 10A fuse safely but I like to err on the cautious side and put in the smallest value possible to protect the wiring AND the equipment.
@@piercedasian I actually found 1 amp so all good sir! Ty
The Bic pen 🖋 trick saved me so much time great idear thanks for this aw install video my sy looks better than a professional job
Glad the pen idea worked. I actually got the idea from a CivicX forum member called "CTRMOFO". The credit all goes to him for coming up with that hack.
You obviously havent seen any reputable work done before
great vid! exactly the info i was looking for.. if i make one recommendation.. I'd probably use Tessa tape to wrap the plastic loom in, would add a nice layer that would prevent wire rattle and in warmer climates hold up better (coming from texas here).
again great vid!
Interesting. I don’t actually know what Tessa tape is. Is it a fabric type tape? I wrapped all my wiring quite thoroughly even after I finished this vid. So far it has been holding up well but then again I drive like 3000 miles a year :)
I’m thinking I can just go positive on one side of the speaker and negative on the other side from the amp....it’s the wires used to make it 2 ohms from the prior videos that’s messing me up (leaving them there or removing them) Doing a positive to one side of the speaker and a negative to the other will make it 2 ohms if I’m not mistaken
it will depend on the speaker/sub you're using. If you have a dual voice coil sub that has 2 4ohm coils then you'd wire all the +ve together and conversely all the -ves together.
Incredible walkthrough... thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice clean install for a diy project 👍
Thanks!
Hey man, great video. I know I'm late to the party but I'm finally going to pull the trigger on my 2017 Type R with this build. I wanted to ask two things: how's it holding up and problems with it after a few years? And how come your didn't use a distribution block instead of the 1 amp inline daisy you did? When I used to do stereos in college we used distribution blocks regularly and I used them for my ground and power for my comp cars all the time? I am not familiar with the LC2i so I am not sure if it was because of that?
Thanks man, hope to hear back from you in a few days because I should be installing this in the next week. Happy new year!
Type R has held up perfectly. Granted I don't drive it in the winter and our summers are relatively short its hard to say. I worked for Honda as a mechanic a while ago and the Type R is a solid car b/c of its no-frill approach to its engineering. Not much to really go wrong especially the 2017-2019 years b/c the lacked any of the honda safety sense stuff. I didn't bother with the distro block for a few reasons:
1. It isn't necessary when you've only got one amp that is super efficient and doesn't draw a lot of juice like the old class A/B ones do.
2. I don't plan to add any more amps to the car.
3. The in line 1AMP to the LC2i is negligible as far as current draw is concerned. Given the wire is so thin to power the unit that it doesn't make sense to install a distro block for it. Same with the ground. There is a single grounding point in the back so the LC2i and the amp can ground there.
4. Cost and clutter - in MY specific installation less is more. I don't need to spend additional money on splices and blocks (more points of failure) and I know what my future plans are for the car which is nothing in the foreseeable future. IF I decide to add another amp one day then I can simply upgrade the feeder cable and install a distro block then.
Hope that helps and enjoy your new ride!
This makes sense. I keep forgetting not to treat the LC2I as not an amp haha. Just one last question man, what gauge wire did you end up running for the inline 1amp fuse and the remote wire? They both seem thick, like 12 gauge? Why that thick for the remote wire or was it more of you just had wire to use because I've been there as well.
Anyways thanks man, will be installing this exact build next week.
Hey Kenny, apologies for taking so long to reply. The wire I used for the LC2i is something like a 14 gauge wire. It draws barely anything. I used that wire just because that was what I had in the garage not because it was necessary. Stay tuned... I'm going to be doing a comprehensive video (permitted I have time and resources to do this) installing a set of top end Focal KX2 speakers, sound deadening and a Helix V Eight DSP/Amp combo. The Type's R's sound won't even be the same after I do that crazy upgrade. 8 channels of amplification of power with a top tier DSP to change a stereo that is "meh" to one that is WOW. Big project with big costs but I think it will be well worth it.
loved ur work bro... its super neat and clean.... keep it up
Thank you! Cheers!
Well done trying this on my 07 e350. Good thing my battery is in the trunk
Aw man an E350 is super easy to install in b/c of the proximity of the battery. Just make sure you do not compromise the battery box if it is sealed and you wouldn't want a buildup of hydrogen gas in your trunk.
I liked this video. Well done, and thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
You think 8” kicker comp R will fit? Please post a video of the sound of your set up. Thanks and good tutorial btw.
The only way to tell if the kicker comp 8” will fit will depend on the depth of the kicker. If you look at my description it will show the exact
Ideal of Rockford sub I used. Look the specs up for that and compare them against the kicker you want to put in. Another sub had asked me to do a sound comparison video but I have been super busy that I have not been able to do a full fledged comparison of before and after. I promise I will get to that soon and post when I can. Stay tuned and don’t forget to click the little bell to be notified of new videos.
First off awesome videos and very clean install. Two questions I have for you is 1) Do you hear or notice any rattling noises considering that you mounted the sub into a factory, plastic enclosure? I’ve always used MDF sub enclosures but I was considering this option to save space in the trunk and not have a box. And 2) Does the bass from the sub sound evenly throughout the car even though the sub is mounted on the right side of the car?
glad you liked the vid! I honestly can't say that I really hear any buzzing from the rear. Totally agree that MDF is the way to go but for the sake of factory look and fit that I went the route that I did and I don't regret it. It isn't going to shake my fillings out but it is a DRASTIC improvement over the factory sub. Yes the bass is fairly even throughout the car. Only thing that is wonky is the sub sounds "poppy" when you've got the hatch open and you're in front of it - similar to being almost overdriven but yet when you're sitting in the car with the doors and hatch closed that it seems okay. Not the best description for you but that's the only way I can describe it.
Tremendous job! Would you recommend a different audio control than the ACR1 since that looked a little tough to get it to fit?
In all honesty I probably would've went with the Rockford knob instead since it was so much smaller than the ACR1. The ACR1's advantage is that it decouples the dependency on the brand of amp you use. The challenge when using a bass knob with your amp is that say you fry your amp, then the matching bass knob for it may not work on another brand. When you use the ACR1 it will always control the source signal going to the amp. I guess in the long run it doesn't really matter much but I went with the ACR1 route b/c I got my Audio Control gear for cheap.
The other benefit is if your LC2i is behind the dash or under a seat, it’s an easier run for the control knob wire.
Hey great informative install I'm doing mostly the same ...but I just wanted to know what kind of window visors ur using ...I wanted weather tech but it's not avail for the type r..
Glad you liked my video. The window visors I'm using are the genuine Honda ones. I actually have the full detailed installation video on my youtube channel if you want to know part #'s are how to exactly install them properly.
Nice looking install. I have used the LC2i before, but not the remote knob. Does it just lower the gain through the LC2i, or does it actually control some sort of boost? Also, I assume because you tapped the wires that were going into the factory sub, that the signal you sent to the LC2i was actually coming from the factory subwoofer amp. Thanks!
The remote knob is basically the gain control at your fingertips. Yes you are correct that the LC2i is taking signal from the factory stereo’s sub amp output. That is actually why the LC2i is needed as these new fangdangled headunits do some weird amplification /EQing to the signals that messes up aftermarket equipment.
Really nicely done...clean and safe!
Glad you liked the install. Thanks for watching.
I am going to install the same amplifier very soon. Have you noticed any overheating issues with the amplifier being under the carpet in the trunk? Have you driven for many hours with a lot of bass and checked the temperature of the amp?
No heat issues whatsoever. Ran it long and moderately loud and the amp was almost stone cold.
Question about the + and - sides of the speaker...with the speaker still being wired for (2 ohms) does it matter if you put the + and - on opposite sides of the speaker? (Talking about the wires coming from the amp to the speaker) I don’t think it does but in your subwoofer install video you put the + and - on the same side...in this video you have them on opposite sides of the speaker, thx
No, when you hook up a speaker it must follow the terminal designation. If you don't do that then your speaker/sub will be out of phase (meaning it is supposed to push out but it actually sucks in). There are odd exceptions when you'd wire a speaker backwards but this isn't one of them. In my sub's case I have a dual voice coil sub where each coil is 4ohms. They're supposed to be wired in parallel to achieve a total of a 2ohm load. If you're not sure about the ohms wiring on the sub (parallel vs series) take a ohm meter and touch the terminals that you would hook the amp to. You should see a nominal impedance of 2 ohms.
@@piercedasian thanks for the reply, I see what you’re saying about following the terminal designation but my question is more or less if I can put the wires coming from the amp (the + and -) in one side of the speaker..(but still have it wired parallel) similar to the way you wired the sub in your other video..the video without the amp. In this video you put the + from the amp on one side of the speaker and the - in the other side...I’m using the same speaker and a similar Rockford amp for my install btw...again, thanks for the reply and help
you're very welcome! Hopefully your install goes smoothly.
Thanks for the video! Could you please provide a link or description for the white plastic power wire holder you installed to hold the power wire under the hood near the hood latch cable?
👍 Great video, what about the remote turn on from the LOC to the Amp did you have to do that
There is no need b/c the LC2i has signal sensing and will provide the 12 volt trigger from the LC2i to the amp so no additional wiring back to the head unit required :)
@@piercedasian ok great, thanks
You did it! Thanks for sharing! ❤️
yes I did :) I had to as the amp makes the sub so much better in ways that I can't even describe. The Type R is easy to install in since it has that foam tire blank tray that you can put things into vs. other civics that have a spare tire in its place. I'll be doing a sport touring soon so we'll see how that pans out.
piercedasian fantastic! I will do this once my 2019 Type R arrives this spring. I already have the amp and sub speaker - just need the car
Your video has helped me so much! I own you a big thanks
Love how you took your time and did a professional job - I will do the same
Cheers!!!
glad you loved the video. Yes, take your time and do things right and you'll be rewarded with a nice looking and nice sounding system that is super reliable. Good luck on the car purchase.
for the signal, do you connected to the left or right side on the LC2i? also do you think regular RCA converter will work talking signal from factory subwoofer? Thanks, Sub and liked
I believe on mine I connected it to the "left" input terminal. RCA converter will likely not work too well using the high level signal from the factory sub's wiring. The reason why I used the LC2i is to put back the lost bass signals that result from the grabbing a high level output sub signal from the head unit. Some say that you can use an amp that has a built in high level input to achieve the same result but I cannot speak to that with any intelligence since I haven't tried that route on my 10th gen civic.
You need a converter that converts high level speaker output into low line output.
Just curious, I saw you tapped a positive wire into the engine bay's fuse junction box (near where the megafuse is located). Assuming you didn't blow the megafuse itself, did you ever come into problems with an electrical parasitic drain/ abnormal key-off load?
Hi Benito, the short answer - no I do not have any electrical issues or parasitic drain. Why would it if my equipment and setup is working properly? What people DON'T understand (and I've had some snarky comments) is that I'm technically piggybacking my amp off the main positive battery feed BEFORE the fuse box and I've done electrical load calculations based off of my amp and the factory wire from battery to fuse box will be able to handle the added load without much issue. I don't blast my music so the amp would draw VERY little current (I've hooked up an ammeter to the amp when it was cranked and it wasn't pulling much current so at low to moderate volumes it would be barely anything). I still fused the amp power cable close to the fuse box (as how one SHOULD do it if it were wired direct to the battery) so there is still short circuit protection for the amp. As for the mega fuse, my amp is wired BEFORE that. The reason why I went the route that I did is because the install is cleaner looking and the safety risk to the car and audio system won't realistically be much of a problem for my particular application. I would NOT do it this way if I were running more amps or a larger load as you could literally melt the main wire if you were pulling huge amounts of current. While I'm not an engineer or an electrician by trade, I do know more than the average cat when it comes to anything electrical which is why I'm 100% confident in my work.
@@piercedasian I genuinely hope my comments don't come off snarky. You did a good job and your setup is clean. It's more that I'm just talking shop since I'm pondering about an amplifier in my Civic too. Rockford Fosgate does make high efficiency gear so I'm pretty positive you won't run into issues with excessive power draw, especially with a fuse setup. No relay though? I'd figure this circuit would be a key-on only function. Might help protect the amplifier integrity. Then again, would you have to recalibrate any of the amp settings manually if it was so? Might not even be worth installing a relay at that point.
@@benitoloco899 No not snarky at all! I'm just saying my install according to some is controversial b/c it is technically NOT good practice other than to wire directly off the positive terminal on the battery. The issue really comes down to pulling power through the car's main positive cable that feeds ALL power to the car when an amp SHOULD have its own dedicated feed without piggybacking off other wires which is what I did. The wire from the fuse box to the battery is plenty thick, is less than 12" long so I'd rather have a clean install than a janky looking one. Call me vain :) No need for a relay b/c its built into the amp. The power cable is full time on but that's why the LC2i has a "remote" out terminal to feed 12v+ trigger into the amp's "remote" trigger to turn the amp on. This is why I don't have any parasitic draw on my audio system. It behaves exactly like stock with no funky hacks to make it work right.
@@piercedasian Cool 😎. Those LC2i output converters from AudioControl really come in handy like that. Will possibly consider it when I do mine on my Civic. Any reason you went with a 2 channel converter instead of 4? Don't get me wrong, AudioControl is a good brand. Me, I'd personally go with Rockford Fosgate's RF-HLC4 version if it's compatible.
@@benitoloco899 it was out of convenience b/c someone was selling a mint condition one on the cheap and I knew the LC2i is a great product. The Rockford RF-HLC4 issue that is purely a hi level input to low level RCA output converter and lacks and re-eq signal restoration back to the RCA outs. So in fact, the LC2i is a much better unit b/c it has the built in algorithm to take the messed up EQing from the factory head unit and restore the signal in such a way that "audibly" makes sense to an amplifier. What is really funky about modern head units is they do some weird signal processing and send a narrow range of signals to each speaker which is how honda makes the claim "500watt output" premium audio. They do so by fudging how the output is measured. That being said, an amplifier works best when a full spectrum signal is fed to it so the build in crossover in the amp can properly "tune" the low pass signal so the sound is predictable and there is no "suck out" or over emphasis on certain frequencies. The LC2i's unique trick up its sleeve is that it has intelligence built into it to re-eq the signal curve and restore the signal response. A line out converter does NOT do that which is why I went audio control. My next big project is a Helix DSP process/amp combo to drive al the speakers in the Type R along with a pretty high end focal front stage upgrade. Big money to me which is why it isn't happened yet. I have the speakers and the custom built break out harness from the stock amp connector but the amp/dsp combo unit is so so so expensive.
Great video very good details! Keep it up. Just some questions...So no need to get remote in for lc21 as it turns with speaker signal? Can you also provide what cables you used for each connection sorry my first install with and lc2i. TIA
Hey thanks for watching the vid! No need to remote trigger just set the LC2i to signal sensing and call it a day. A fellow member PMed me with a decent list of stuff to buy to complete the install.
Power & Ground w/ fuse holder
www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fos...8+gauge+power&qid=1566530288&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Interconnect cables:
www.amazon.com/Hosa-CRA-202...interconnect&qid=1566531793&s=gateway&sr=8-17
Speaker wire:
www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics...ZJ3D6J9WQ97J2SV38PGM&qid=1566531917&s=gateway
1AMP mini fuse holder:
www.amazon.com/Qunqi-10Pack...i+fuse+holder&qid=1566532277&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Awesome thanks for the help. One more question does the lc2i need to be hooked up to one speaker or two?
Hey last question did you connect to sub in parallel for it to become 2 ohm or did u make it 4ohm with one negative connection going to positive?
Sorry for the long delay to reply. Since my sub is a dual 4 ohm voice coil that they are wired in parallel. Meaning - to - and + to +.
Great installing and very nice video! I'm planning to install a sub on my 2017 CRV LX and it doesn't have a sub the back like your Civic. Do I have to remove the head unit to wire my amp (the signal wires)? If yes could you explain a little about how to do that please? Thank you so much!
If your CRV doesn't have a sub out then you'll need to remove the head unit and locate the front speaker outputs and then tap into that signal and feed it into your LC2i. Do you have the same exact headunit as another CRV that has the premium sound system? Do the higher tramline CRVs even come with a sub? If yes then you may be lucky and can tap into the sub output and pull signal from there.
@@piercedasian Thank you for replying, my CRV is a base model so it doesnt have the premium sound system(160-watt AM/FM audio system with MP3/Windows Media® Audio playback capability
and 4 speakers), but the head unit is the same for other higher models. I'm not sure if the other trimline has a sub though. So best way is to tap into the front or rear speakers to the LOC and from LOC to the amp, right?
Very well done man. I am looking to replace the head unit with a 9" android one but I have the touring model with upgraded stereo and factory amp. Would you happen to know how I can make this work?
it will depend on the replacement head unit. If the new head unit comes with RCA outputs then you can delete the LC2i and just run your amp straight from the new head unit. If you don't want to go that route or you feel it would be more complicated then you can tap into the system exactly as shown as I would assume the aftermarket stereo would work the same as the factory one (as far as speaker outputs are concerned).
@@piercedasian you're the best. Thanks so much!
you're very welcome!
Do you need to upgrade your battery or a capacitor to cater for the increase of power drawing from the amp and sub?
Generally not if you’re running a modern high efficiency class D amp. You’d have to run some additional amps or have gigantic ones before you need to consider a 2nd battery, larger alternator and adding caps to make up for the voltage drops from that kind of current draw.
Good videos man very detailed. Thumbs up
Thanks!
Great video. 👍im a 16 year honda master tech. Clean install. Got links to the complete units. Amp and lc2i? Wanna copy this set up.
Brian I have updated the video description with links to all the CURRENT version of the items I used in my setup.
Badass!! I also have a type r. Looking to do some of your mods. Subscribed
Nice! What year, color and unit number is yours? I love the Type R. It was worth the 20 or so year wait for one :)
@@piercedasian 2018 aegean blue. Don't recall the # somewhere at 15000. Awesome car.
sweet! Nice color and kick as car of course :)
Thank you so much for making this! I plan on attempting it with the same sub. I was wondering if you’ve had any issues with the sub bouncing on the factory grill at higher volumes? I read somewhere on a forum of someone having that issue with the Rockford setup.
no bouncing off the factory grill whatsoever. This could very well happen if you're over driving the sub b/c the rockford sub definitely has more "excursion" travel than the factory sub has. I don't push my sub to its limits so I can't speak to whether or not that would happen.
Hey bro not being racist but this video is why I love Asians, I worked with them when I was a sushi chef at a 5 star restaurant lol now turned automotive technician, but the detail of your install and everything is fantastic
Not racist at all! I've heard LOTS of people tell me that and while I am not one to discriminate, that I think culturally we are conditioned to work a little differently. I'm not saying I am perfect (far from it) but the mindset on how we approach problems might be different - perceived to be perhaps perfectionistic? Either way, the devil is in the details and those that care would WANT to see ALL the info so they get it right the first time. Thanks for watching!
@@piercedasian can confirm, my wife is Asian (Japanese) and she is like a tank. Nothing stops her, she's adorable, yet strong as an ox mentally.
Always seeks to be the best at whatever she is doing.
@@crazytech5755 Yep, that doesn't surprise me to hear that. In the end, I was raised at least, to do things right and treat any work you're doing as if it was your own.
not sure if you have answered this question but, ive been looking at the thread from CTRMofo for a while and am still debating if i want to change all the speakers and subs since i want to keep the car relatively oem. what are your thoughts on each part of the set up ? meaning.. do you think it will be a significant upgrade if i just install an amp, or should i go and change all the speakers around the car as well. the question is derived from a cost saving saving standpoint but rather i want to eliminate changing out oem parts as much as possible. the oem sound system is rather lacking. thanks !
Ah yes CTRMOFO! Great guy! His setup is really nice and the sound improvement is likely significant - so much so that I'm debating on doing the same to mine. While I simply did a sub and sub amp upgrade that if you wanted to stay relatively OEM them do at the very minimum the upgrade I demonstrated in my video. If you find the sound still lacking then I'd then look at adding aftermarket amps to the stock speakers and see if you like it. You'd be amazed at how much better things can sound with improved amplification. If that is still NOT to your liking then the final step would be to upgrade to better speakers. Unfortunately with audio, the sky is the limit and what sounds good to me may not satisfy your wants. While I fully agree that going full aftermarket is really the only way to audio bliss that similar to what you've said, I try to stick to OEM as much as possible for cost reasons. It's expensive to buy GOOD quality equipment and even more expensive to buy high quality speakers. Not sure of what your goals are with your civic years down the road but I have my fingers crossed that my Type R 25 years from now will be worth something similar to the original Integra Type R so the less I mod it the better off I'll be. I save my money to invest in superior sounding audio for my home rather than in a car that I barely drive more than 5000kms a year. Each to their own but that's how I'd approach your specific problem.
All that watching and no sound demo 😑
Hi David, I actually did have a sound demo but the dynamic range of my mic is pretty crappy and my iPhone and gopro wasn't much better so i opted to not bothering showing a before and after sound as my viewers would probably tell me it sounds the same which it certainly doesn't. Maybe when I get more subscribers and views I can actually afford to buy a better wide dynamic range mic :)
piercedasian 10-4 wasn’t trying to be a dick, I was gonna use my headphones and get better sound that way.
There’s no point buddy.
Why did you use an amplifier AND LC2i for your setup? Why not simply run the amplifier to the sub only?
b/c you need the LC2i to re-eq the signal back such that the sub operates in the proper frequency range b/c modern factory head units do some funky EQ'ing that clips the bass signal and thus not giving you the full range of bass you'd expect from the sub.