Go to nordvpn.com/properprinting to get 70% off a 2-year plan plus 1 additional month free, only $3.56 / €3.15/ £2.63/ ₩4,315/ ¥427 per month. It’s risk free with Nord’s 30 day money-back guarantee! This has been an insane journey and hope you like the video!
Honest comment: with all the issues I've seen with ABS and layer adhesion, I wasn't sure it would happen. Your construction, however, mitigates a lot of those issues and I'm impressed. So... curious to see how it holds up to lateral forces on hard steering. I'd like to see it driven hard on a test course, if possible. (All four wheels printed, if possible.)
Good work getting this far with the project. I suspect that point loads (like hitting pothole or a curb) or side loads are going to break it - the weakest spot is where the bolts are holding the rim to a hub. It's probably going to get ripped from the bolts. If that holds the next issue is the heat from the brakes. If that rim survives I'm going to be seriously impressed and if not I'm hoping that's not the last iteration. Keep pushing boundaries.
Just a tip! If you put 2 nuts next to each other on to the thread (counter nut) you can use them with a wrench or other tool to screw in the bars. This way you won't strip the hole surface with the hammer.
Thanks! That'd make it even stronger I recon and ti doesn't damage the first pitch of the thread. Next time I also want to damage the thread where it goes in to make a stronger bond too.
Couldn’t your use through holes in the bend part and take solid bolts and put a nut on each end? Normally you wouldn’t use threated rods for such use cases as they basically work like springs and the shear forces caused by the threat are pretty high
I would print one more rather than three. Put one on each side (front or rear) and drive it somewhere that would see a variety of conditions. I' wondering how it would hold up when turning. Congratulations on this success!
This is amazing, Jon. I'm happy for you. This has been a long project. Next tests: 1: Full tire pressure (2.4 bars?) 2: Burnout on a paved surface. (I'm still a little concerned about the heat generation on pavement, though this is encouraging.)
I have been watching for a few videos, but this pushed me over the edge to becoming a subscriber! Your humor, engineering, stick-to-itiveness make these videos very entertaining. Awesome video and awesome result! We are all rooting for you!
You guys are absolute MADLADS and I love it. The lack of PPE is concerning, but I mean, you uploaded it, so you are still here lol. Amazing to see this come to life!
I had a 100% confidence you'd make it this far mate. I've seen you bend the unbendable and figure out the unfigurable, so why not this too 🙂 Loved this 🙂
Well, your biggest issue has always been the rim splitting along that seam... When you went from your first to your second iteration you beefed the hell of every aspect of that rim when you did that despite that being the only spot that failed. That being said however, I think your new beefy design could actually be slimmed down some (if you are printing the thing solid... which I have no idea if you are or not) but will need testing. A lot of people are bringing up hitting the brakes for extended periods or hitting curbs or whatever, but honestly, I think the highest loading factor will be cornering. If you put the rim back on the front of the car, and then subject it to large cornering forces... the spot where the lugs attach it to the car may end up being the weak point because of the immense leverage that is created on a rim. One "could" solve that with a metal plate on the outer surface of the rim acting as almost a clamp that some bolts would go through to sandwich the rim to the car and spread out the load... but honestly that really wouldn't be in the spirit of the challenge. Something you "may" be able to do to increase the strength is to potentially figure out a way of printing the rim with some form of non plainer surface throughout the layers. So as the printer is making the rim, it is vertically sweeping the surface up and down as if its following a ruffled potato chip. In doing this you end up somewhat breaking up that fundamental layer shearing issue and gaining a bit of strength... but naturally no one has done this yet, you are limited (not you in particular but 3D printers in general) in how steep an angle you can run up and down along with how much change in Z can be done, and lastly, It would need an entirely new way of slicing to get something like this to work. But you seem to be a pretty talented programmer you might be able to pull it off! One final thing I would also like to point out... if you had done this on a smaller car, honestly your first iteration would probably have worked and worked well. It wouldn't have been the strongest thing, but you could have at least driven around on it gently before it broke. Like I have a Honda Beat and I believe you have a Mini Cooper... either of those this challenge would have been a piece of cake... but, again... then it really wouldn't have been much of a challenge. So I commend you for getting this to work on a car such as this! This will open many peoples minds to the possibility's of what 3D printers are capable of! I honestly was thinking about printing full blown fenders with something like a Hangbot 3D printer... never got around to it yet though so it has all just been a thought and concept.
Thanks a lot for your insightful comment! I totally agree about the weak points you mention. I have some experimental ideas for increasing the strength in the Z direction. The extruder I recently made is the start of that project (and it's not continuous fiber printing since that doesn't add strength between the layers as far as I know). This will be a different project and I think I'll pick up the project rim with the newly gained knowledge and experience. Cool idea about using the Hangbot for that concept!
@@aarons7615 Yeah, testing will be required, but your probably right... granted the conical surface of the lugs does distribute the load very well, but is it enough... only time will tell.
So cool! That this project looked impossible made it spark my curiosity. My guess was that it'd fail at the first time steering and I definitely didn't expect this result! Especially considering this being ABS.
Great video. Not quite as challenging as creating a rim, but I have just lost my 2nd wheel cover on my Peugeot Boxer van - so was thinking I might try and print some replacements - your video has inspired me to get on and do it.
Could probably get away with thinner rods, I'd have to do some calculations. Use some carbon fiber nylon just for the clickbait title "3D Printing A Carbon Fiber Car Wheel!"
You could fuse the layers by heating the complete rim packed in fine crushed salt. Also when driving the rods in, use an angle grinder to cut a long slot into the all thread. The edge of the slot will cut the thread into the plastic while screwing it in. It will also hold glue to make the distribution in the hole better. To bend the rod at exactly the right place, saw into the all thread 1/5th at that place. The rod is weaken there but its plenty strong enough for the surrounding plastic.
I think another really cool application would be on off road recreational vehicles: 4 wheeler, dirt bike, side by side. It should come with it own unique challenges. A smaller vehicle might give you some wiggle room with the design considering your 3D printer bed's dimension limit. You can get a cheap 4 wheeler and 3D print a whole set for it and see if it can take the hostile environment of off roading! Also great work and awesome videos! Thanks for sharing this.
Sure in off road you can have huge bumps but i think first it needs proper testing on pavement that has great traction. That will put it on big test, specially with almost two tons of car cornering. If it can take that, then maybe try rough terrain and impact forces.
The nuts on rods are the weakest link in this right now. Any cornering forces could result in them working their way through. One though I would suggest is making that area conical on the rim plate then make the lug ‘washer’ that fits it out of a much more exotic 3D printable material. It would function like a lug nut, or if you wanted you could potentially go make some metal ones which thread on and are one piece. If the spirit of the challenge is 3D printing methods for the finished part then literally using lost-pla casting could give you some aluminum or other alloy parts. Or if you take a look at same of the data of CNC kitchens results on threads. I bet if you reached out to him he’d be happy to test what the material load is on threads. Maybe you might be able to print some lug nuts that would hold up and spread the surface forces easier. Edit… first time on the channel you’ve already talked to him already. Well I guess that would make this suggestion easier. Lol
i kinda want to see a gopro angle from underneath showing if the rim is deforming into the rotor or the caliper? very cool video tho really like the idea of using the abs glue personally ... i think i wouldve tried doing this with a smaller car less heavy and such very very cool though!!
That's pretty impressive work. The only issue I can see with it is that when slowing down fast, a brake disc usually uses it's wheel a bit like a heatsink. Without this thermal mass to dump heat into, the brake disc will take a lot longer to cool down. So repeated stops one after another will accumulatively raise the temperature of the disc much higher than usual. I'm not sure what temperature it would take for the wheels mating face to turn back into molten plastic (and all the wheel bolts clamping force disappeared), but I'm pretty sure, whatever that temperature is, the brake disc could be pushed well beyond it.
All in all you unexpectedly had a longer video than you thought you were going to make. Great deal, I was going to recommend some kind of nut with a flange on it to keep from pulling through. It seems the new print with threaded rod held up great.
Honest opinion: yes I thought you would make it, the threaded rods solved your main issue. Baking/reheating prints (whilst covered in powdered salt/plaster) seems to really bond layers together (CNC Kitchen has some videos on this). Getting the rims to fit would probably mean needing to build your own kiln style oven (with firebrick and NiCr wire).
I can imagine if you where to drive it on a track the rim would eventually melt with all the breaking, but that's pretty cool and impressive for a plastic rim
Love your videos man, they are crazy interesting and very fun to watch. Your face while you were filling up the tire was so funny :). Regards from Brazil!
The only issues i can see are with creep and brake heat. Brake heat can be fixed by moving the brake disc away from the wheel, using a CV shaft. Creep I'm not too sure about, you just have to keep the stress really low.
At this moment the rim is still mounted to the car to find out what it does over time. I'm interested in creep too! I wouldn't have thought that heat would ever become an issue since I never guessed we'd make it this far. Now it's becoming an issue xD
The problem is that 3D printed stuff is weak on the layer boundaries. You have tried to solve this by holding it together with threaded rods, but that introduced some of its own failure points. My solution would be laser/CNC cut two large steel rings (going around the wheel), which can spread the force of the nuts on the two sides. This would be a mix of CNC and 3D print, but this way you can REALLY pre-tension the layers. The plastic can take massive amount of force in compression.
A pressure of 2 bars creates a separating force to the rim of roughly 1000kg, if my calculations are correct. Assuming it's not very close to breaking from just being pressurized, it's possible the rim can handle all driving conditions that normal tires can create with their limited friction.
Honest comment: this is one of those times where backyard ingenuity and experimenting may have actually unearthed an entirely new industry completely unrealised by anyone else. Abso-freaking-lutely fantastic.
Very Cool. BigRep has 3D printed not only wheels but also tires. Automotive Design & Prototyping Studios have started doing this for show cars and motorcycles.
It has some minor marks where it wore against the brake caliper, but nothing major. Right now it's still mounted to the car to find out what it does over time.
could work though id feel safer using at least aluminium on the rim and an aluminium center with the printed center over it (basicly a gloryfied hubcap) allso next time youre going to pressuretest it lock the tire inflator open and put youreself and the compressor far away from it using a long hose , then set the pressure in bars with the pressure regulator on the compressor also because there brakes installed on the hubs theres going to be quite a bit of heat on the inside of the rim expanding the air in the tire and soften the plastic of the rim the treaded rod might hold better if you tap treads in the abs and glue them in (drive them in fast using a electric ratchet ) think you stand a better chance of succes and getting youre incestment back by printing replacement interior panels for older cars that are currently hard to find and print them on demand (save the files they take a lot less room )
We've done those tests 😉 ua-cam.com/video/fKwJ7P_5sIs/v-deo.html It turns out to be less dangerous than we expected, so we didn't worry too much. It still was a bit frightening to be honest xD
Your projects are so proper but I'm just wondering about your tire blowing out losing control of the car and driving into your house or using a longer hose to fill it up for the initial pressure test. Maybe its a hindsight type of observation, good job!
MAking your own wheels is the sketchiest feeling automotive adventure. I made some steel ones once. The first few trips I drove clenched up, but they lasted until I got alloys. Waiting for the highway testing ;-)
Good question! I used ABS because of a couple of reasons. The goal was to print large parts out of difficult to print materials and the rim is an interesting example. With ABS I could already tell a lot about the capabilities of the printer I modified and run into the challenges it comes with. ABS is affordable which makes it easier to play around with and if it works with ABS, it will certainly work with other materials. This way I have another ace up my sleeve so to say.
Congratulations on a great project 👍🏽 You say your using a 1.2mm nozzle, can you share your settings I’m trying to print on a modix big 60 with a 1mm nozzle and having lots of problems Thanks dean
Thanks! The generic settings are: Layer height: 0.4mm | Shells: 5 | Extrusion width 1.2mm | Infill: triangles 25% | Infill flowrate: 80% | # top/bottom layers: 3 | Top/bottom flowrate 85% | Bott/top ext. width: 100% | Cooling : none | Nozzle temp: 280 degC | Bed temp: 100 degC | Chamber temp: 70 degC | Print speed: 50 mm/s | Inner shell speed: 35 mm/s | Outer shell speed: 15 mm/s | First layer speed: 30 mm/s | Infill speed: 40 mm/s | Top surface speed: 30 mm/s We made a video in which I show how strong I get to print ABS and what my findings were ua-cam.com/video/I-QlnA9cMOY/v-deo.html The settings above are based on those findings. I hope this helps!
@@properprinting thanks for that, we are printing with PETG at 200c and its still bubbling, top surface is terrible. Base layer is not to bad , sides are ok apart from the infill showing through Would be great if you could do a video on this material Ill check out your video Thanks Dean…… and keep up the great work
@@deanlegg418-u2k PETG must be printed hotter than that. Somewhere between 235 to 245 works a lot better. I printed with this material in my earlier videos.
You originally started with the one piece rim, than you splitted it because the caliper, with other configurations (cars model) could you avoid to subdivide the rim? I'm wondering if the experiment can works also without rods and nuts...
Did you guys finally print a full set of rims? Have you tried to make a tubeless wheel? What material are you using in the printer? Thanks for answering my questions.
We haven't printed a full set yet, but that's the plan. However, this will include the tire (hopefully if it works the way I have envisioned). I printed the rim out of ABS because the challenge for me was to be able to print large parts out of difficult to print materials, like ABS.
Your 3D scanner worked perfectly for a functional case like this! 3D scanning more complex parts to use as reference is definitely something I'm going to do more often.
Why couldn’t you add material on the outside of the inner part of the rim to increase the strength even though you have no more clearance on the inside? The bead of the tire doesn’t go anywhere near there, so I’d think that extra thickness there could contribute a lot to the strength…
Go to nordvpn.com/properprinting to get 70% off a 2-year plan plus 1 additional month free, only $3.56 / €3.15/ £2.63/ ₩4,315/ ¥427 per month. It’s risk free with Nord’s 30 day money-back guarantee!
This has been an insane journey and hope you like the video!
Hey, have you been hiding this video for 6 days ? lol
Thank you for the time stamps.
Honest comment: with all the issues I've seen with ABS and layer adhesion, I wasn't sure it would happen. Your construction, however, mitigates a lot of those issues and I'm impressed.
So... curious to see how it holds up to lateral forces on hard steering. I'd like to see it driven hard on a test course, if possible. (All four wheels printed, if possible.)
Layer adhesion issues can be mitigated with a heated or, at least, insulated chamber.
@@theofficialczex1708 they could be completely removed if he used salt annealing to re-melt the entire piece into a solid piece of plastic.
Hahaha this is such a wild project and love that you’re not given up on it!
Thanks Jessy! I was often close on giving up and I'm so happy how it turned out eventually!
I need Assist
Good work getting this far with the project. I suspect that point loads (like hitting pothole or a curb) or side loads are going to break it - the weakest spot is where the bolts are holding the rim to a hub. It's probably going to get ripped from the bolts. If that holds the next issue is the heat from the brakes. If that rim survives I'm going to be seriously impressed and if not I'm hoping that's not the last iteration. Keep pushing boundaries.
Just a tip!
If you put 2 nuts next to each other on to the thread (counter nut) you can use them with a wrench or other tool to screw in the bars.
This way you won't strip the hole surface with the hammer.
Thanks! That'd make it even stronger I recon and ti doesn't damage the first pitch of the thread. Next time I also want to damage the thread where it goes in to make a stronger bond too.
You can’t screw in the bars like that as there bent unless you put them in straight and hope they bend as they screw in ?
Couldn’t your use through holes in the bend part and take solid bolts and put a nut on each end?
Normally you wouldn’t use threated rods for such use cases as they basically work like springs and the shear forces caused by the threat are pretty high
@@properprinting screwing a nut on top before you start hammering will prevent you from damaging the threads as well.
I would print one more rather than three. Put one on each side (front or rear) and drive it somewhere that would see a variety of conditions. I' wondering how it would hold up when turning.
Congratulations on this success!
This is amazing, Jon. I'm happy for you. This has been a long project.
Next tests:
1: Full tire pressure (2.4 bars?)
2: Burnout on a paved surface. (I'm still a little concerned about the heat generation on pavement, though this is encouraging.)
I know its an old comment but a lot of cars actually have 2.0 bar as their rated tyre pressure.
Quite impressive results.
I think the problem may when riding quite long downhill - brakes may get quite hot and this heat can soften the plastic.
And the discs are going to conduct the heat right in to the rim..
I have been watching for a few videos, but this pushed me over the edge to becoming a subscriber! Your humor, engineering, stick-to-itiveness make these videos very entertaining. Awesome video and awesome result! We are all rooting for you!
you know things are getting serious when he breaks out the Zwitsal
What I like about this channel is that your not just printing silly little plastic crap, your actually experimenting with the tech
You guys are absolute MADLADS and I love it. The lack of PPE is concerning, but I mean, you uploaded it, so you are still here lol. Amazing to see this come to life!
I had a 100% confidence you'd make it this far mate. I've seen you bend the unbendable and figure out the unfigurable, so why not this too 🙂 Loved this 🙂
Well, your biggest issue has always been the rim splitting along that seam... When you went from your first to your second iteration you beefed the hell of every aspect of that rim when you did that despite that being the only spot that failed. That being said however, I think your new beefy design could actually be slimmed down some (if you are printing the thing solid... which I have no idea if you are or not) but will need testing. A lot of people are bringing up hitting the brakes for extended periods or hitting curbs or whatever, but honestly, I think the highest loading factor will be cornering.
If you put the rim back on the front of the car, and then subject it to large cornering forces... the spot where the lugs attach it to the car may end up being the weak point because of the immense leverage that is created on a rim. One "could" solve that with a metal plate on the outer surface of the rim acting as almost a clamp that some bolts would go through to sandwich the rim to the car and spread out the load... but honestly that really wouldn't be in the spirit of the challenge.
Something you "may" be able to do to increase the strength is to potentially figure out a way of printing the rim with some form of non plainer surface throughout the layers. So as the printer is making the rim, it is vertically sweeping the surface up and down as if its following a ruffled potato chip. In doing this you end up somewhat breaking up that fundamental layer shearing issue and gaining a bit of strength... but naturally no one has done this yet, you are limited (not you in particular but 3D printers in general) in how steep an angle you can run up and down along with how much change in Z can be done, and lastly, It would need an entirely new way of slicing to get something like this to work. But you seem to be a pretty talented programmer you might be able to pull it off!
One final thing I would also like to point out... if you had done this on a smaller car, honestly your first iteration would probably have worked and worked well. It wouldn't have been the strongest thing, but you could have at least driven around on it gently before it broke. Like I have a Honda Beat and I believe you have a Mini Cooper... either of those this challenge would have been a piece of cake... but, again... then it really wouldn't have been much of a challenge. So I commend you for getting this to work on a car such as this! This will open many peoples minds to the possibility's of what 3D printers are capable of!
I honestly was thinking about printing full blown fenders with something like a Hangbot 3D printer... never got around to it yet though so it has all just been a thought and concept.
i would say the biggest issue would be the lug nuts pulling through since they are the smallest contact points.
Thanks a lot for your insightful comment! I totally agree about the weak points you mention. I have some experimental ideas for increasing the strength in the Z direction. The extruder I recently made is the start of that project (and it's not continuous fiber printing since that doesn't add strength between the layers as far as I know). This will be a different project and I think I'll pick up the project rim with the newly gained knowledge and experience. Cool idea about using the Hangbot for that concept!
Non-planar 3D printing is a thing. ua-cam.com/video/km1lvuva5mI/v-deo.html
@@aarons7615 Yeah, testing will be required, but your probably right... granted the conical surface of the lugs does distribute the load very well, but is it enough... only time will tell.
That is freakin amazing, I did not expect it to survive a burn out. cannot wait to see you replace all 4 wheels with it!
Haha his reaction when trying to set the tires bead what priceless. Same reaction I had the first time setting a bead from the valve stem.
2:39: Instant stance rim :'D
I was certain you'd need some sort of ABS blend with extra PC for stiffness to pull this off. Impressive project.
Thanks! I wasn't so sure either xD
Its been a year. Im eager for more rim content. 😂😂😂 Seriously Dr Zeus. Lets see it!!!
I gotta be honest, when you started I thought there was no way that would ever work. But boy am I so happy to be wrong.
So cool! That this project looked impossible made it spark my curiosity. My guess was that it'd fail at the first time steering and I definitely didn't expect this result! Especially considering this being ABS.
Great video. Not quite as challenging as creating a rim, but I have just lost my 2nd wheel cover on my Peugeot Boxer van - so was thinking I might try and print some replacements - your video has inspired me to get on and do it.
Could probably get away with thinner rods, I'd have to do some calculations. Use some carbon fiber nylon just for the clickbait title "3D Printing A Carbon Fiber Car Wheel!"
You could fuse the layers by heating the complete rim packed in fine crushed salt.
Also when driving the rods in, use an angle grinder to cut a long slot into the all thread. The edge of the slot will cut the thread into the plastic while screwing it in. It will also hold glue to make the distribution in the hole better.
To bend the rod at exactly the right place, saw into the all thread 1/5th at that place. The rod is weaken there but its plenty strong enough for the surrounding plastic.
I'm so impressed with how far you have gotten this project, and the beard too... I remember when there wasn't much.
I think another really cool application would be on off road recreational vehicles: 4 wheeler, dirt bike, side by side. It should come with it own unique challenges. A smaller vehicle might give you some wiggle room with the design considering your 3D printer bed's dimension limit.
You can get a cheap 4 wheeler and 3D print a whole set for it and see if it can take the hostile environment of off roading!
Also great work and awesome videos! Thanks for sharing this.
Sure in off road you can have huge bumps but i think first it needs proper testing on pavement that has great traction. That will put it on big test, specially with almost two tons of car cornering. If it can take that, then maybe try rough terrain and impact forces.
The nuts on rods are the weakest link in this right now. Any cornering forces could result in them working their way through. One though I would suggest is making that area conical on the rim plate then make the lug ‘washer’ that fits it out of a much more exotic 3D printable material.
It would function like a lug nut, or if you wanted you could potentially go make some metal ones which thread on and are one piece.
If the spirit of the challenge is 3D printing methods for the finished part then literally using lost-pla casting could give you some aluminum or other alloy parts.
Or if you take a look at same of the data of CNC kitchens results on threads. I bet if you reached out to him he’d be happy to test what the material load is on threads. Maybe you might be able to print some lug nuts that would hold up and spread the surface forces easier.
Edit… first time on the channel you’ve already talked to him already. Well I guess that would make this suggestion easier. Lol
i kinda want to see a gopro angle from underneath showing if the rim is deforming into the rotor or the caliper?
very cool video tho really like the idea of using the abs glue personally ... i think i wouldve tried doing this with a smaller car less heavy and such very very cool though!!
That's pretty impressive work.
The only issue I can see with it is that when slowing down fast, a brake disc usually uses it's wheel a bit like a heatsink. Without this thermal mass to dump heat into, the brake disc will take a lot longer to cool down. So repeated stops one after another will accumulatively raise the temperature of the disc much higher than usual.
I'm not sure what temperature it would take for the wheels mating face to turn back into molten plastic (and all the wheel bolts clamping force disappeared), but I'm pretty sure, whatever that temperature is, the brake disc could be pushed well beyond it.
Glad i could help 🙏
I must say I'm truly impressed! You had a goal and you didn't give up. I believed in you and the project and it's so nice to see it succeed 😀
It's the steel reinforcement that made the difference. Awesome!
So cool indeed! This makes sure that the layers don't separate and I'm so happy that it just fits and works out this way!
All in all you unexpectedly had a longer video than you thought you were going to make. Great deal, I was going to recommend some kind of nut with a flange on it to keep from pulling through. It seems the new print with threaded rod held up great.
Honest opinion: yes I thought you would make it, the threaded rods solved your main issue.
Baking/reheating prints (whilst covered in powdered salt/plaster) seems to really bond layers together (CNC Kitchen has some videos on this).
Getting the rims to fit would probably mean needing to build your own kiln style oven (with firebrick and NiCr wire).
Wow!!!! This is an amazing experiment! I wasn't expecting the wheel to hold during the burnout high rpm. Mind blown!
I can imagine if you where to drive it on a track the rim would eventually melt with all the breaking, but that's pretty cool and impressive for a plastic rim
The only surprise to me was that you hadn't succeed sooner, made my day to see it in action!
Have you tried longer bolts that would go through the rims? clamping pressure and maybe with thicker bolts. also smooth the rim out with acetone.
Mwahahahaha! I'm gonna have to ask you to loan me that driveway!
You're welcome any time ;)
I kept cringing waiting for it to explode lol Epic to see the car finally moving on it, very cool !
Never doubted that you could do it. What an impressive journey to get to this point. Thanks for all the laughs.
first video i saw of you guys. liked it really. greetings from the northcoast of germany
Love your videos man, they are crazy interesting and very fun to watch. Your face while you were filling up the tire was so funny :). Regards from Brazil!
Working on a good rim has never been this exciting
This is why I've decided you are MY FAVORITE UA-camR! You Crack me up my ribs are hurting from laughing!
The only issues i can see are with creep and brake heat. Brake heat can be fixed by moving the brake disc away from the wheel, using a CV shaft. Creep I'm not too sure about, you just have to keep the stress really low.
At this moment the rim is still mounted to the car to find out what it does over time. I'm interested in creep too! I wouldn't have thought that heat would ever become an issue since I never guessed we'd make it this far. Now it's becoming an issue xD
I wonder how light those are compared to the regular rims. Also I wonder if there is tougher plastic to use for this.
Zijwaartse druk bij een scherpe bocht of een rotonde is een i terressant testje! Ik had her eerlijk gezegd niet verwacht! Nice!
Ja inderdaad. Ik denk dat remmen en sturen tegelijk een uitdagende test zal zijn. Thnx!
Have you considered printing the *tire* too? Maybe even print an "airless" tire with a gyroid infill?
That crossed my mind, yes :) I haven't thought of the gyroid infill, which is actually a great idea, thanks!
wow! I thought for sure it would break, but you made it work.
Congrats man! That's some proper printing right there!
The problem is that 3D printed stuff is weak on the layer boundaries. You have tried to solve this by holding it together with threaded rods, but that introduced some of its own failure points.
My solution would be laser/CNC cut two large steel rings (going around the wheel), which can spread the force of the nuts on the two sides.
This would be a mix of CNC and 3D print, but this way you can REALLY pre-tension the layers. The plastic can take massive amount of force in compression.
A pressure of 2 bars creates a separating force to the rim of roughly 1000kg, if my calculations are correct. Assuming it's not very close to breaking from just being pressurized, it's possible the rim can handle all driving conditions that normal tires can create with their limited friction.
And the initial test we did with the inserts held up to almost 5 bars. It's astonishing how much force it actually can handle.
Is there an obvious reason I am missing to not have the threaded rod go through both halves with nuts holding them rather than glue?
Honest comment: this is one of those times where backyard ingenuity and experimenting may have actually unearthed an entirely new industry completely unrealised by anyone else. Abso-freaking-lutely fantastic.
I almost thought you weren't gonna make it but then BAM, here it is. Also I love how you had to translate all the weird slurs we use here :P
Bad-ass! Gotta see how 4 3D printed wheels would hold up!
9:26
Engage safety squints lol
Badass dude! I knew you would get it to work. Really glad so be along for this journey.
Very Cool. BigRep has 3D printed not only wheels but also tires. Automotive Design & Prototyping Studios have started doing this for show cars and motorcycles.
Have you taken the rim off again? Is there really no visible damage / wear?
It has some minor marks where it wore against the brake caliper, but nothing major. Right now it's still mounted to the car to find out what it does over time.
could work though id feel safer using at least aluminium on the rim and an aluminium center with the printed center over it (basicly a gloryfied hubcap)
allso next time youre going to pressuretest it lock the tire inflator open and put youreself and the compressor far away from it using a long hose , then set the pressure in bars with the pressure regulator on the compressor
also because there brakes installed on the hubs theres going to be quite a bit of heat on the inside of the rim expanding the air in the tire and soften the plastic of the rim
the treaded rod might hold better if you tap treads in the abs and glue them in (drive them in fast using a electric ratchet )
think you stand a better chance of succes and getting youre incestment back by printing replacement interior panels for older cars that are currently hard to find and print them on demand (save the files they take a lot less room )
We've done those tests 😉 ua-cam.com/video/fKwJ7P_5sIs/v-deo.html It turns out to be less dangerous than we expected, so we didn't worry too much. It still was a bit frightening to be honest xD
Your projects are so proper but I'm just wondering about your tire blowing out losing control of the car and driving into your house or using a longer hose to fill it up for the initial pressure test. Maybe its a hindsight type of observation, good job!
"How are you feeling about ehh ?"
"Meh ..." 🤣🤣🤣
This is one of the videos on which I can't stop laughing
What is the abs melting point? One 60-0(100-0kph) braking test will get enough heat to soften the wheel I think.
MAking your own wheels is the sketchiest feeling automotive adventure. I made some steel ones once. The first few trips I drove clenched up, but they lasted until I got alloys.
Waiting for the highway testing ;-)
Maybe it was explained in some other video but why ABS and not something like CFNylon?
Good question! I used ABS because of a couple of reasons. The goal was to print large parts out of difficult to print materials and the rim is an interesting example. With ABS I could already tell a lot about the capabilities of the printer I modified and run into the challenges it comes with. ABS is affordable which makes it easier to play around with and if it works with ABS, it will certainly work with other materials. This way I have another ace up my sleeve so to say.
I think you should use a smaller rod for it that dont contact with hub with break disc.
You could say you have abs brakes now
How to add ABS to your car using 3D printing😂
I have a feeling that it will last until rough terrain or a ton of revolutions.
This is amazing the bolted approach was defo a good solution
Next video 3D printed suspension haha
Congratulations on a great project 👍🏽
You say your using a 1.2mm nozzle, can you share your settings
I’m trying to print on a modix big 60 with a 1mm nozzle and having lots of problems
Thanks dean
Thanks! The generic settings are: Layer height: 0.4mm | Shells: 5 | Extrusion width 1.2mm | Infill: triangles 25% | Infill flowrate: 80% | # top/bottom layers: 3 | Top/bottom flowrate 85% | Bott/top ext. width: 100% | Cooling : none | Nozzle temp: 280 degC | Bed temp: 100 degC | Chamber temp: 70 degC | Print speed: 50 mm/s | Inner shell speed: 35 mm/s | Outer shell speed: 15 mm/s | First layer speed: 30 mm/s | Infill speed: 40 mm/s | Top surface speed: 30 mm/s We made a video in which I show how strong I get to print ABS and what my findings were ua-cam.com/video/I-QlnA9cMOY/v-deo.html The settings above are based on those findings. I hope this helps!
@@properprinting thanks for that, we are printing with PETG at 200c and its still bubbling, top surface is terrible. Base layer is not to bad , sides are ok apart from the infill showing through
Would be great if you could do a video on this material
Ill check out your video
Thanks Dean…… and keep up the great work
@@deanlegg418-u2k PETG must be printed hotter than that. Somewhere between 235 to 245 works a lot better. I printed with this material in my earlier videos.
@@properprinting we tried that with 0.4 and printed nice but the 1.0mm just gave us the problems, so we went down in temp
@@deanlegg418-u2k The bigger the nozzle, the worse the flow rate becomes. To mitigate this, a higher temp is required and/or slower print speeds
What is the overall price of the rim? and time to print?
Awesome - your persistence paid off!
cam throw shot got you a follow that was funny perfect
You originally started with the one piece rim, than you splitted it because the caliper, with other configurations (cars model) could you avoid to subdivide the rim?
I'm wondering if the experiment can works also without rods and nuts...
Been watching these for so long now, lol. Seeing you get this far is both excellent and funny as hell 🤣
That's cool, man! Hope you get all 4!
next step: 3d printed car
Did you guys finally print a full set of rims? Have you tried to make a tubeless wheel? What material are you using in the printer? Thanks for answering my questions.
We haven't printed a full set yet, but that's the plan. However, this will include the tire (hopefully if it works the way I have envisioned). I printed the rim out of ABS because the challenge for me was to be able to print large parts out of difficult to print materials, like ABS.
Wow man this is so much fun to see. Very impressed. Just insane how strong it is. 🙌
👍
Thank you!
Should make a 100% infill tirel/rim combo with no air for drifting purposes
Would it melt when the disc breaks get hot
Just regular PLA would probably be stronger, it's all about the layer adhesion. I can also be annealed.
How does PLA handle cold? I wonder if it gets brittle.
Having metal inside your tries sounds like a great idea 😄
Sick Jon! Looking forward to the next video!
I’m not sure but doesn’t DOT certification requirements have to be on all rims used on public highway? Does anyone have a answer?
Soo cool. If only you had the space to try to drift it. Keep up the awesome work.
Should do them on a textured build plate so you could get cool designs on them rims. Like ornamental or carbon fiber mesh look
That's a cool idea!
Thank you so much for your video, glad to know that our 3d scanner has helped in your workflow
Your 3D scanner worked perfectly for a functional case like this! 3D scanning more complex parts to use as reference is definitely something I'm going to do more often.
@@properprinting Glad to know it helps, I am sure your video will be popular, and look forward to seeing that :)
@2:43 ROTFLMAO. I'm glad I understand Dutch. Nicely done in the end.
Congratulations your hard work paid off.
Does anyone knows, what was the final weight?
yes i had faith that you woukd be ablento figurebit out and get it to work.
0:13 : *sprays water on glasses*
"IS THAT A SCIROCCO !??"
1:35 : Of course it is !
Dude I love every bit of this video. Such emotion!
wire cable and a turnbuckle. weave in and out with through holes like a shoe lace and then recess into backside of rim.
Alright then, time to make some rims for some big wide drag racing slicks!!!
Great work 👍
Still, this rim will melt at high speed breaking or while driving in the summer. Be aware 😉
Why couldn’t you add material on the outside of the inner part of the rim to increase the strength even though you have no more clearance on the inside? The bead of the tire doesn’t go anywhere near there, so I’d think that extra thickness there could contribute a lot to the strength…
Because it would be too tough to get the tire on it. I could've used bigger tires, but that was an option if this would fail :)