Ukebari, the inner lining of the Samurai helmet. Beginning of sewing Momoezashi.

This video shows the process of starting the stitching of Momoezashi, the inner lining of the helmet.
The inner lining of a helmet is called "Ukebari", which is a cloth floated so that there is a gap between the helmet bowl and the head so that the helmet bowl does not touch the head directly.
In ukebari, two pieces of cloth are layered with the direction of the fibers shifted, and the threads are stitched in a fine spiral pattern, called momoezashi.
Both the cloth and thread are made of hemp. In modern times, cotton is often used as a substitute.
In this video, hemp is used for both the cloth and thread.
The first step in the process is to remove wrinkles from the cloth.
A damp bleached cloth is placed on the hemp cloth to be used as the floating fabric, and a hot Japanese sewing trowel is pressed against it to stretch out the wrinkles.
Next, the position where the hemp cloth is to be cut is measured with a ruler, marked with the trowel, and secured to the hangari to make a line.
Cut the fabric with scissors according to the lines.
On the two sheets of linen prepared, make a diagonal stripe on one sheet and a cross-shaped stripe in the center of the other sheet.
This is also done on the kakehari, which is fixed in place.
Align the diagonal stripes of the striped linen with the cross-shaped stripe in the center, and lay them on top of each other with the direction of the fibers shifted by 45 degrees.
After this, the overlapping may shift as the fabric is sewn together in a spiral pattern, so a hook is inserted.
Once the hemp fabric is stacked, mark a circle as a guide for the spiral to be sewn.
When you have reached that point, it is time to start stitching the hemp thread.
The thread should be half a hemp yarn.
A "hanhiro" is half the length of a "hitohiro" (both arms outstretched), and is the length from one arm outstretched to the chest.
After the thread is cut off at the half-hiro, it is inserted into the needle hole and the other end is tied into a tama-knot.
From here, start stitching.
Stick the thread in a spiral from the center outward.
Care must be taken to create a clean spiral.
Careful stitching is also required so that the stitch spacing is consistent.
At the end of each stitch, leave a little extra thread so that it can be used later for a drawstring.
Also, at this point, no ball stoppers are used.
After the second stitch, take a half inch of thread and start sewing again, this time with a little extra thread so that the beginning of the stitching can be narrowed down.
This is the end of the sewing process.

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コメントありがとうございます！
甲冑師の先生に教えていただいた方法に加え、自分なりに工夫をした手法も合わせています。
次の工程では、頭の形状になるように絞りながら縫い進める動画を作ろうと思います。
またご覧いただけましたら幸いです。
ありがとうございます！