Note! My properly functioning N54 boost solenoids lose pressure (bleed off) when bench testing in this way (as his do in the video, and as new Pierburg's do in Vehicular DIY's video)! Believe they're designed to work this way (bleed off). The defective new cheap knock-offs I have do not bleed off when testing in this way which I suspect is a design flaw for N54 applications. The defective new knock-offs result in improper waste gate function (in my case kicking me to JB4 safety map 4 from all additional boost maps 5, 2, and 1.
Correct. They bleed off and even new ones will bleed off at different rates. I'm amazed at the lack of solid information on these on the Web. Correct way to test is on the car and to measure the vacuum going to the wastegates so T it off to a vacuum gague. Should be 15 in hg (on a mhd tune at idle without the wastegate rattle fix applied) or at least both solinoids should read the same. The pump on the car should be giving around 25-30 hg. You need to make sure you pinch the hose that connects the boost solenoids together so they are tested individually. Even vehicular never did that bit so he never found out what solinoid was under performing and just replaced one
@@HowToDoitright good question too 🙂 i ask you this question mine was new pierburg but i had a problem boost was too late. i test like in your video it was leaking not hold pressure and i ordered other new and now all is good .
Note! My properly functioning N54 boost solenoids lose pressure (bleed off) when bench testing in this way (as his do in the video, and as new Pierburg's do in Vehicular DIY's video)! Believe they're designed to work this way (bleed off). The defective new cheap knock-offs I have do not bleed off when testing in this way which I suspect is a design flaw for N54 applications. The defective new knock-offs result in improper waste gate function (in my case kicking me to JB4 safety map 4 from all additional boost maps 5, 2, and 1.
Correct. They bleed off and even new ones will bleed off at different rates. I'm amazed at the lack of solid information on these on the Web. Correct way to test is on the car and to measure the vacuum going to the wastegates so T it off to a vacuum gague. Should be 15 in hg (on a mhd tune at idle without the wastegate rattle fix applied) or at least both solinoids should read the same. The pump on the car should be giving around 25-30 hg. You need to make sure you pinch the hose that connects the boost solenoids together so they are tested individually. Even vehicular never did that bit so he never found out what solinoid was under performing and just replaced one
you said malfuncton reduce power you known what code do u have.. my is 2c56 pressure chargning control too high is that the same one
Sold the car. Never had any code via obd reader but had bunch with ISTA+D. You may want to pull codes and see. Every car is different
are sure that we can tedt like that because minde don t keep pressure
Good question. What do you think
@@HowToDoitright good question too 🙂
i ask you this question mine was new pierburg but i had a problem boost was too late.
i test like in your video it was leaking not hold pressure and i ordered other new and now all is good .
I learned it from a mechanic. Did you check if the new one hold pressure?