I know it’s an older video but for those coming here. The solenoids on the car here look to be aftermarket ones. I just had a bad experience with some no names. I’ll be going with pierberg next as that’s what was there from OE I believe. This channel has been amazing. Thx for all you do!
Pierburg is OEM original on BMW cars. I have bad experience buying other aftermarket Solenoid. Now I have order a new Pierburg and hope my car works better.
Im watching this on my tv and got halfway through, had to come and say awesom video and you explain things so clearly. N54 community is blessed to have you!
The vacuum you see at idle (at the waste gate controller side) will vary depending on the wastegate rattle fix setting in MHD or which level of BMW programming. The vacuum comes from the engine operated vacuum pump, there will never be boost to the vacuum cannisters. The two solenoids are "Teed" together, you have to connect directly to each solenoid to test them independently. The exhaust flap operation will have no effect unless it's diaphragm is ruptured.
Well my friend you have helped me a lot AGAIN! Thank you for your Diligence! I bought new solenoids when I got my new 17t turbos. Right away I had Strange boost troubles but thought it couldn't be my new (Chinese cheap) new ones. So for the last 8 months I have been chasing strange boost and sounds thinking it must be everything but these guys. Then I finally decided to check on them. I only saw the tests people were showing doing the vacuum pump on the lines from the canisters to the solenoids so I did that last night and one held vacuum and didn't leak at all. The other won't even pump up at all. So I changed the non pumping one for one of the OEM ones I took out and it did exactly the same thing. So I was totally puzzled. I still have one more of the OEM ones I haven't yet tried however I now don't trust either of the Chinese ones after seeing that it's very possible they should lose a little vacuum when doing that test. Tomorrow I will do the test with the Y connector like you've done here using the OEM ones only and see what the results are. I suspect they will both act very similar to yours. Thank you again!
nice to hear a non tuned n54 under the hood just baught one 3 weeks ago and gives of that sound of the injectors working and pulsing mine sounds just like this ...im glad its supose to sound like this if u listne to engine through the front wheel u can hear this ....thaught it was injectors on the way out...my guess is the direct injection has a little more pulse noise than usual...cheers fella
Great video, I love it. Thank you very much taking your time to share your knowledges. I have ordered a cheap vacuum hand pump like yours. I am looking forward to go on testing on my car. I have a bad Booster pressure solenoid. Just order a new Pierburg 7.02256.27.0. At the same time I have ordered a new Pierburg 7.02318.01.0 Turbo Control Valve. Good tips. If you have driven more than 150000km you should check and clean your map sensor. I did and my engine run more quiet and smoother and acceleration is much better and quicker.
I’ve got a £20 one off eBay for my cdti insignia only about 8 months old. I did have a stuck turbo so I fitted a new one myself as it was always over boosting and always limp mode after 3000rpm. Now overboost is back! Finger points to the solenoid need to check first tho
Excellent video!!! Keep it up. Helped me understand what the repair shop was telling me. The car wasn't getting any power at 3k rpm. Then engine light/limp mode. Took it in and he said it was probably a turbo hose or a bad solenoid. Thanks!
Is that it’s not getting power until 3k rpm or not getting power after? Mine has no boost until 3k rpm. I’ve got more solenoids on the way and I’m changing vac lines tomorrow
I haven't had a chance to replace the solenoid due to travel for work. I throw the code mostly after full warm up and highway driving at 4k rpm in 2nd - 3rd at half throttle or more.
Pierburg is the OEM manufacturer of the BMW solenoids, yet when I bought them, the only lasted a month...had to buy OE BMW branded ones to fix the problem. The BMW branded solendoids are still going good. There is one extra step of QC that goes into BMW branded items. Same goes for plugs, coils, sensors etc. You pay a premium for the logo, but you also get the extra QC and that's why I just get OE branded so I don't waste time in the end... too many times this has happened with aftermarket items.
The branded OEM in terms of quality is ALWAYS the best. I've been in the industry for quite awhile so can shed some light. For all that's worth in your example. The BMW and aftermarket are from the same brand in this case Pierburg. Made in the same factory, by the same workers, same forms, same everything. So what's the difference?! Anyone will ask. QC (quality control) is the key word. The parts that score the highest in QC tests. Let's trow a number, ex. between 85% and 100% Go straight to fulfil the amounts schedule on contract, let's say a million parts. So end up in the BMW logo box. The premium pick of the crop. The remaining, let's say
Hey thanks for the video, this along with a couple of dedicated threads were key in helping me diagnose a bad solenoid - hoping thays all the issues but one was extremely lazy and was only pulling 4ish inches mercury at idle. Solenoids ordered!
@@zzmusiclist9780 what i also noticed is i have a very bad wastegate rattle with the ebay ones , terrible. Didn’t had it before or if it was definitely not noticeable like it is now .
Does anybody know if this is the same as the EGR solenoid for M57TU2 diesel engines? They appear the same from the exterior. Mine was making a duck quacking noise, so I replaced it with an aftermarket one but it seems to hold vacuum differently from my old one. The aftermarket one holds a strong vaccum perfectly when unpowered, but drops pressure rapidly after being energized.
Hello, I'm seeking assistance with my BMW N55 engine, which is experiencing wastegate issues. Initially, the engine runs smoothly upon start-up. However, upon connecting an in/Hg gauge to the wastegate, it reads 5 in/Hg. Surprisingly, at idle around 700 RPM, the gauge jumps to 11 in/Hg. Any guidance on resolving this issue would be greatly appreciated.
I am not sure you are correct in your statements. The lower vacuum port should hold vacuum when pumped up. The most probable cause for this one leaking down is that you should attach the vacuum hose directly to the port instead of using that adapter. The vacuum is bleeding off between the clear vacuum hose and the adapter and if it isn't, the new valve is defective.
I tested mine today with an odd result. One held vacuum to 25psi and bled off slowly like in the video, yet the other one held vacuum to 27psi with ZERO bleeding off. Ideas?
I need help from you, 2009 bmw 535i code 30ff low boost pressure, I did changed 2 brand new boost solenoid ( Pier burg) every time give hard acceleration engine malfunction show. Turn off engine then start back up.. engine malfunction disappeared back to normal if you driving easy on gas paddle it car run ok… you think is bad turbocharger ??? Thank you.
Hi, love your informative vids... i have just had my turbos reconditioned and the parts are thicker and stronger etc..but i now seem to have an issue the actuator arm has side to side play? I can feel it when I put arm through the sidewall.. its rattling on deceleration and at low revs.. similar sound to the wastegate rattle i had prior to them being reconditioned. I know they were done properly by a well respected turbo company in the UK.. could the solenoid failing cause this? I can't believe they are rattling through failure or possibly could the arm need slight adjustment? I have no codes and turbos are working far better than before hope to hear your thoughts on this?
What is the original pressure of the vacuum pump from the car？ If you press the throttle, he will close the valve ？ there is no vacuum, unless the pressure is too high, he will release the pressure？
I've been dealing with a 30ff code for the past 6 months now. Ever since the car has felt like it's been running NA. I've replaced all of the vacuum lines just in case and I've ordered new vacuum solenoids. I purchased a vacuum gauge and tee'd into the wastegate lines running to the turbos and it showed 1 inHg. Teeing into the vacuum canisters I was getting about the same. Teeing directly into the pipe coming from the the vacuum pump got me about 4 inHg. When I pulled the brake booster pipe and covered the top with my hand it was still at 4 inHG. What do you guys think?
@@kieranmurphy8384 The wastegate solenoid has a dust filter on the vent that can get clogged over time leaving your wastegates unable to open up correctly. Still means replacing both solenoids. You can test for this by connecting a T line to your wastegate vacuum line past the solenoids same as OP's test, but with the car off. If you don't have a hand pump, just suck on the tube with your mouth for a moment. The solenoids should have this line connected entirely to vent without power. If it holds any vacuum or you can't get much air through it, neither can your wastegates.
I tested both with 12v and one clicks louder than the other. I do get a 30ff code on high rpms. Do you think the lower click on the rear solenoid means it’s going bad?
Is your brake pedal hard or engaged with vacuüm when you cold start your engine? So in other words, does it hold vacuüm when you let it sit? I don't have a 35i engine, but the vacuüm is present at anytime. Maybe yours is leaking while the exhaust valve is closed?
The vacuum in the brake booster (hard brake pedal) E92 335i is hold by a checkvale (one way valve) on the brake booster itself.L nipple on a pvc vacuum line inserted in rubber ring that go insite brake booster.If you have a hard pedal after a day then 2 problems can be in play. 1 checkvalve 2 brake booster insite leaking vacuum.
Yea well that is true. I was more thinking into the direction of air-intrusion via the exhaust flap hose. It knows a difference while open or closed. While it theoratically should be a closed circuit, until the valve is opened (shut off vacuüm) or visa-versa, the valve closes and using vacuüm. But it may be normal, I don't really know.
No need to test fancy ways... if you hear a tiny buzzing in the solenoid area, they are bad. That's how I found out. The dealership didn't believe me and laughed, then they ran the codes and lo and behold they changed them under warranty. They don't ignore my comments anymore. It's a very very faint buzzing that can be covered up by engine noise, but you can hear it is quite a different frequency - fast buzzing like a very fat mosquito.
I heard a different frequency at boost solenoid area so I was pretty sure that's what was causing my 30ff code, however, I also tested it using this videos method and my gauge reads 16 in hg for both solenoids. Now I'm confused
So if it's bleeding off as much as it is wouldn't that be causing a vaccum leak? I should have just went to school for auto repair I'm so tired of relying on info from diyer videos and forums who don't really know much more than me, all kinds of misleading info on the web.
I’m targeting 30-35 on idle then when I revi it it moves to 5 what could be the issue I’m getting 30FE and 3100 codes I can’t drive car as it keeps going in limp mode over 3k rpm
If the control system is capable of dropping the output line to 5inHg quickly, and then developing 30inHg shortly after, then the solenoids appear to be working. If it moves from 30 to 5 slowly, that could be a clogged solenoid vent causing the wastegate to open late. Are you running a custom tune? If it can react quickly, it looks like the default wastegate or WGDC base map are set to 100%. Also, I think your gauge is off by some 5inHg, because 35inHg would be a stronger vacuum the the void of outer space.
@@greenlungo3996 yeah I’m running at custom stage 3 tune pushing around 630bhp it’s all sorted it’s a JB4 issue I didn’t put jb4 on car previous owner did and it’s the worst thing anyone could use but it’s all removed and runs better no errors or faults
So, the good one and the bad one are the same ? you totally missed the test ? i don't know where you Tee'd it,but give it some gas to just over 1000 and you'll see what happens, that's how you test it,Tee'ing on the hose that goes to the capsule(the actuator on the turbo).
I can't see shit got he t into it... Plus I just bought this same kit from harbor.. And the t links don't fit. So I have no clue how the fuck he did this.. It would be nice to be explained
I know it’s an older video but for those coming here. The solenoids on the car here look to be aftermarket ones. I just had a bad experience with some no names. I’ll be going with pierberg next as that’s what was there from OE I believe.
This channel has been amazing. Thx for all you do!
Pierburg is OEM original on BMW cars. I have bad experience buying other aftermarket Solenoid. Now I have order a new Pierburg and hope my car works better.
Im watching this on my tv and got halfway through, had to come and say awesom video and you explain things so clearly. N54 community is blessed to have you!
The vacuum you see at idle (at the waste gate controller side) will vary depending on the wastegate rattle fix setting in MHD or which level of BMW programming. The vacuum comes from the engine operated vacuum pump, there will never be boost to the vacuum cannisters. The two solenoids are "Teed" together, you have to connect directly to each solenoid to test them independently. The exhaust flap operation will have no effect unless it's diaphragm is ruptured.
Man love your videos keep it up, never seen a person explain things so clear
Well my friend you have helped me a lot AGAIN! Thank you for your Diligence! I bought new solenoids when I got my new 17t turbos. Right away I had Strange boost troubles but thought it couldn't be my new (Chinese cheap) new ones. So for the last 8 months I have been chasing strange boost and sounds thinking it must be everything but these guys. Then I finally decided to check on them. I only saw the tests people were showing doing the vacuum pump on the lines from the canisters to the solenoids so I did that last night and one held vacuum and didn't leak at all. The other won't even pump up at all. So I changed the non pumping one for one of the OEM ones I took out and it did exactly the same thing. So I was totally puzzled. I still have one more of the OEM ones I haven't yet tried however I now don't trust either of the Chinese ones after seeing that it's very possible they should lose a little vacuum when doing that test. Tomorrow I will do the test with the Y connector like you've done here using the OEM ones only and see what the results are. I suspect they will both act very similar to yours. Thank you again!
Did it ever work , what was the out come
No one will ever update after resolving their issue
Man I love your videos. This channel is a blessing.
nice to hear a non tuned n54 under the hood just baught one 3 weeks ago and gives of that sound of the injectors working and pulsing mine sounds just like this ...im glad its supose to sound like this if u listne to engine through the front wheel u can hear this ....thaught it was injectors on the way out...my guess is the direct injection has a little more pulse noise than usual...cheers fella
Great video, I love it. Thank you very much taking your time to share your knowledges. I have ordered a cheap vacuum hand pump like yours. I am looking forward to go on testing on my car. I have a bad Booster pressure solenoid. Just order a new Pierburg 7.02256.27.0. At the same time I have ordered a new Pierburg 7.02318.01.0 Turbo Control Valve. Good tips. If you have driven more than 150000km you should check and clean your map sensor. I did and my engine run more quiet and smoother and acceleration is much better and quicker.
I’ve got a £20 one off eBay for my cdti insignia only about 8 months old. I did have a stuck turbo so I fitted a new one myself as it was always over boosting and always limp mode after 3000rpm. Now overboost is back! Finger points to the solenoid need to check first tho
Excellent video!!! Keep it up. Helped me understand what the repair shop was telling me. The car wasn't getting any power at 3k rpm. Then engine light/limp mode. Took it in and he said it was probably a turbo hose or a bad solenoid. Thanks!
Is that it’s not getting power until 3k rpm or not getting power after? Mine has no boost until 3k rpm. I’ve got more solenoids on the way and I’m changing vac lines tomorrow
Did you ever sort yours I have this problem at around 3k then mine goes into limp mode and no power at all
Thanks for the videos!..I'm getting 30FE codes and I hope it's just the solenoid(s). This video helps me out!
Did it fix your 30 code?
Hello did it fix your problem
Did it fix the problem that code is becoming the death of me
I haven't had a chance to replace the solenoid due to travel for work. I throw the code mostly after full warm up and highway driving at 4k rpm in 2nd - 3rd at half throttle or more.
@@mikebrooks447 Hey, did you solve your problem? I am actually suffering from this 30FE code. Best regards from Germany.
Nice vid! Btw with the MHD you can tighten the wastegates for less rattle so I guess it would show more vacuum
would you let me know how man????
Please explain
On the MHD app there's a an option to adjust the wastegates
@@Bobbymustangrx8 ok I'll look into it thanks
@@Bobbymustangrx8 took you 3 years to answer that haha.
Pierburg is the OEM manufacturer of the BMW solenoids, yet when I bought them, the only lasted a month...had to buy OE BMW branded ones to fix the problem. The BMW branded solendoids are still going good. There is one extra step of QC that goes into BMW branded items. Same goes for plugs, coils, sensors etc. You pay a premium for the logo, but you also get the extra QC and that's why I just get OE branded so I don't waste time in the end... too many times this has happened with aftermarket items.
Hmm so far I haven't has issues with the Pierburgs but will keep an eye out.
How did you determine that they went bad? I think I have a similar problem.
The branded OEM in terms of quality is ALWAYS the best. I've been in the industry for quite awhile so can shed some light.
For all that's worth in your example. The BMW and aftermarket are from the same brand in this case Pierburg. Made in the same factory, by the same workers, same forms, same everything. So what's the difference?! Anyone will ask.
QC (quality control) is the key word.
The parts that score the highest in QC tests. Let's trow a number, ex. between 85% and 100% Go straight to fulfil the amounts schedule on contract, let's say a million parts. So end up in the BMW logo box. The premium pick of the crop.
The remaining, let's say
Hey thanks for the video, this along with a couple of dedicated threads were key in helping me diagnose a bad solenoid - hoping thays all the issues but one was extremely lazy and was only pulling 4ish inches mercury at idle. Solenoids ordered!
Mine are no name ebay brand new and they pulling about the same and i get the low boost error . I know is an old comment but did you fix yours ?
@@sameogedd6402 I did yes, I typically avoid ebay when it comes to parts for the bmw, I know folks do well but I would stick with oe or oem parts.
@@zzmusiclist9780 ordered OEM too now and then dispute with ebay lol see if i can get my money back , worth a try
@@zzmusiclist9780 what i also noticed is i have a very bad wastegate rattle with the ebay ones , terrible. Didn’t had it before or if it was definitely not noticeable like it is now .
Does anybody know if this is the same as the EGR solenoid for M57TU2 diesel engines? They appear the same from the exterior. Mine was making a duck quacking noise, so I replaced it with an aftermarket one but it seems to hold vacuum differently from my old one. The aftermarket one holds a strong vaccum perfectly when unpowered, but drops pressure rapidly after being energized.
Kral arabaya takmadan önce yeni selenoid valfi denedin fakat uygun hortumu takmadığın için vakumu sabit tutmadı
Hello, I'm seeking assistance with my BMW N55 engine, which is experiencing wastegate issues. Initially, the engine runs smoothly upon start-up. However, upon connecting an in/Hg gauge to the wastegate, it reads 5 in/Hg. Surprisingly, at idle around 700 RPM, the gauge jumps to 11 in/Hg. Any guidance on resolving this issue would be greatly appreciated.
I am not sure you are correct in your statements. The lower vacuum port should hold vacuum when pumped up. The most probable cause for this one leaking down is that you should attach the vacuum hose directly to the port instead of using that adapter. The vacuum is bleeding off between the clear vacuum hose and the adapter and if it isn't, the new valve is defective.
I tested mine today with an odd result. One held vacuum to 25psi and bled off slowly like in the video, yet the other one held vacuum to 27psi with ZERO bleeding off. Ideas?
Bump
Solenoid probably isn’t opening
Did you sort this im getting around 30psi
@@kieranmurphy8384 No, I just got new solenoids when I upgraded to S63TU manifolds and turbos.
@@An0nDEViant my car is targeting 30 psi and I’m getting 30FE overboost code and 3100 Limp mode and I have no boost leaks etc
this is gold, thanks
When I do the test like you do at 2:54, i do not get any vacuum on my booster pressure solenoid. My solenoid is not good ,right?
I need help from you, 2009 bmw 535i code 30ff low boost pressure, I did changed 2 brand new boost solenoid ( Pier burg) every time give hard acceleration engine malfunction show. Turn off engine then start back up.. engine malfunction disappeared back to normal if you driving easy on gas paddle it car run ok… you think is bad turbocharger ??? Thank you.
Hi, love your informative vids... i have just had my turbos reconditioned and the parts are thicker and stronger etc..but i now seem to have an issue the actuator arm has side to side play? I can feel it when I put arm through the sidewall.. its rattling on deceleration and at low revs.. similar sound to the wastegate rattle i had prior to them being reconditioned. I know they were done properly by a well respected turbo company in the UK.. could the solenoid failing cause this? I can't believe they are rattling through failure or possibly could the arm need slight adjustment? I have no codes and turbos are working far better than before hope to hear your thoughts on this?
Thanks, I'd lean toward them needing a slight adjustment.
Hey buddy did you ever figure this issue out?? Im going thru the same thing
I see both solenoids are Tee'ed together by factory. Does it affect the testing / measuring some how? I think they should be isolated first?
Anybody knows if the boost solenoid (pressure converters) for the 335d slowly bleeds off the vacuum?
Hello, did you figure out? Thanks G
I just bought a set of boost solenoids but I couldn't get them removed, the coolant reservoir was on the way and it was a pain to remove them..
What is the original pressure of the vacuum pump from the car？
If you press the throttle, he will close the valve
？
there is no vacuum, unless the pressure is too high, he will release the pressure？
Hey buddy could you please do a a boost leak test how-to on the n55?
Are the wastegates not fully closed at 5.9 inHg( + or -) anyway? So what's the difference in 10 or 12 I Hg?
Idk man everyone’s video is different results and mine held the vacuum without blocking the other port👀
I've been dealing with a 30ff code for the past 6 months now. Ever since the car has felt like it's been running NA. I've replaced all of the vacuum lines just in case and I've ordered new vacuum solenoids. I purchased a vacuum gauge and tee'd into the wastegate lines running to the turbos and it showed 1 inHg. Teeing into the vacuum canisters I was getting about the same. Teeing directly into the pipe coming from the the vacuum pump got me about 4 inHg. When I pulled the brake booster pipe and covered the top with my hand it was still at 4 inHG. What do you guys think?
Vacuum pump kaput. Repair or replace accordingly.
Cheers
the spec from Vacuum pump supply 25-30 in. hg constant ,so vacuum pump is failing
@@mikekhazma7698 I’m getting 30-35 inhg when I tested mine and I’m getting 30FE and 3100 codes what could it be
@@kieranmurphy8384 The wastegate solenoid has a dust filter on the vent that can get clogged over time leaving your wastegates unable to open up correctly. Still means replacing both solenoids. You can test for this by connecting a T line to your wastegate vacuum line past the solenoids same as OP's test, but with the car off. If you don't have a hand pump, just suck on the tube with your mouth for a moment. The solenoids should have this line connected entirely to vent without power. If it holds any vacuum or you can't get much air through it, neither can your wastegates.
I'm running mhd stage 2+ and I keep getting wgdc dropping to 0 randomly. I replaced the rear solenoid. no change. Would this been a tune issue?
Where can I get a routing of the vacuum system?
Can you post a link your that pressur gun your using
I tested both with 12v and one clicks louder than the other. I do get a 30ff code on high rpms. Do you think the lower click on the rear solenoid means it’s going bad?
Probably not, if you're getting 30FF at high RPMs one of your turbos may be going bad. How many miles are on the turbos?
@@VehicularDIY they’re pretty solid, 15k miles on them they were replaced with oem, no wastegate rattle or anything but I am on mhd 2+
Turbosmart boost Tee
Any experience with them?
Is your brake pedal hard or engaged with vacuüm when you cold start your engine? So in other words, does it hold vacuüm when you let it sit? I don't have a 35i engine, but the vacuüm is present at anytime. Maybe yours is leaking while the exhaust valve is closed?
The vacuum in the brake booster (hard brake pedal) E92 335i is hold by a checkvale (one way valve)
on the brake booster itself.L nipple on a pvc vacuum line inserted in rubber ring that go insite
brake booster.If you have a hard pedal after a day then 2 problems can be in play.
1 checkvalve 2 brake booster insite leaking vacuum.
Yea well that is true. I was more thinking into the direction of air-intrusion via the exhaust flap hose. It knows a difference while open or closed. While it theoratically should be a closed circuit, until the valve is opened (shut off vacuüm) or visa-versa, the valve closes and using vacuüm. But it may be normal, I don't really know.
No need to test fancy ways... if you hear a tiny buzzing in the solenoid area, they are bad. That's how I found out. The dealership didn't believe me and laughed, then they ran the codes and lo and behold they changed them under warranty. They don't ignore my comments anymore. It's a very very faint buzzing that can be covered up by engine noise, but you can hear it is quite a different frequency - fast buzzing like a very fat mosquito.
Good to know, thanks for the info.
I heard a different frequency at boost solenoid area so I was pretty sure that's what was causing my 30ff code, however, I also tested it using this videos method and my gauge reads 16 in hg for both solenoids. Now I'm confused
So if it's bleeding off as much as it is wouldn't that be causing a vaccum leak? I should have just went to school for auto repair I'm so tired of relying on info from diyer videos and forums who don't really know much more than me, all kinds of misleading info on the web.
I’m targeting 30-35 on idle then when I revi it it moves to 5 what could be the issue I’m getting 30FE and 3100 codes I can’t drive car as it keeps going in limp mode over 3k rpm
If the control system is capable of dropping the output line to 5inHg quickly, and then developing 30inHg shortly after, then the solenoids appear to be working. If it moves from 30 to 5 slowly, that could be a clogged solenoid vent causing the wastegate to open late. Are you running a custom tune? If it can react quickly, it looks like the default wastegate or WGDC base map are set to 100%. Also, I think your gauge is off by some 5inHg, because 35inHg would be a stronger vacuum the the void of outer space.
@@greenlungo3996 yeah I’m running at custom stage 3 tune pushing around 630bhp it’s all sorted it’s a JB4 issue I didn’t put jb4 on car previous owner did and it’s the worst thing anyone could use but it’s all removed and runs better no errors or faults
If you have mhd can’t you just look at the target boost reading on your phone
Did you ever find your hesitation issue???
Yes I was low on transmission fluid...
@@VehicularDIY can this be an issue on a manual transmission too?
Where did he get the boost solenoid
FCP euro sells them
So, the good one and the bad one are the same ?
you totally missed the test ? i don't know where you Tee'd it,but give it some gas to just over 1000 and you'll see what happens, that's how you test it,Tee'ing on the hose that goes to the capsule(the actuator on the turbo).
Anyone got a diagram cant connect the lines to it
*or your opel omega b2
Его же надо в правильном положении держать
This.... helped..... none.
I can't see shit got he t into it... Plus I just bought this same kit from harbor.. And the t links don't fit. So I have no clue how the fuck he did this.. It would be nice to be explained