The original Ecotecs were pretty solid. From 2003 to about 2009, the 2.2, 2.4, 2.0 s/c and 2.0T had issues, but nothing horrible. When they went to the direct injected 2.4 in the Equinox/Terrain and some Buicks, that engine was trash. They got rid of the pressed in iron cylinder sleeves, they reduced the size of the bolts that hold the chain guides. The result, they burned oil, the guide bolts would break off in the head or the block, the PCV system would plug with carbon and blow out the rear main, the high pressure fuel pump would leak fuel in to the crank case, chains would stretch… That engine was just a disaster.
You're a sweetheart for helping out your neighbour (and she's a teacher to boot, those government cheques are slim as hell). As for questions for a q&a; are there bits and cutters that it's okay to buy cheap, or is quality the be all and end all? Where/how did you learn machining, and would you endorse one way of getting into machining over another?
I had one of these heads come in from a near new car with 9k miles. Had been in a collision, the body shop repaired it but never checked coolant. The radiator turned out to be damaged and the owner drove with it out of coolant and badly overheated it. The insurance company wanted it replaced, but no availability. The shop asked if I could fix it for the cost of replacing it. Sure!!! It was twisted like a pretzel. Cams were not spinning smoothly. I ran it through the oven several cycles until the cams spun freely, but still had to take .016 off the deck. Cut all the seats and valves too, it was like everything moved. Ran nice after that.
That engine did originate from Saab, then Saturn got it 1st before the cavalier. We occasionally saw valve leakage/misfires under warranty, which usually was a result of sloppy valve guides. But once they went direct injection with em, I think they went down hill. I have 240K on my '07 Cobalt.
Spot on! These were pretty darn good other than a few with the valve guide issue. Total disaster when it to direct injection. Sure made a ton of money patching up these turds. Still get them with the rear seal popped out during the last cold spell.
I love it! I had a direct injected one. It was good. I’m sure the third owner is gonna get many good years out of it. Or maybe not. It was one of those, we didn’t want it out of warranty situations.
@@scrappy7571im in ohio and the shop im at, we have done 6 rear mains from the intakes freezing on the suvs. We have found that the pcv in the middle of the intake gets clogged causing the engine to condensate excessively, once we swapped the intake out, the condensation is very minimal. Also there is a gm oil fill cap that has a 3lb relief on it that we install in case the water freezes again (in the future) so it wont blow the rear seal out.
Love watching machining, especially when you and others like jamsi explain whats going on, with the straight edge, the mounting positions and the end results
Excellent lead setting. Caint cut heavy , but avoids the "center dip," problem....Now , that "eco tech" seems to have roots into your childhood , olds 'quad4' and Pontiac version I call 'quad2' 2valve version ; looks very familiar to 2 disasters I worked on .
I had a Saturn ion with the ecotec. It was by far the most reliable used car I've ever owned. If You happen to leave the lights on by accident, once the battery got down to roughly 12 volts or less it had a battery disconnect so it wouldn't totally kill the battery.
The biggest problem ive had to experience with these is the bad water pump location it is timing chain driven and requires a special holding tool to change it still can be done in 3-4 hours but its more technical skill to change than a regular water pump if its your first time having to change one
If you had to start from the scratch, how would you build up a machine shop? What are most common "sins" of machine shops? Couple of questions I could think of.
Josh, do you have any recommendations on how to make head gaskets last a little longer if you are running an engine on the hotter side regularly. More specifically the 3100-3400 gm engines. I run demolition derbies and thats what we run in compact cars and often times the radiators get taken out. I do pay attention to the temp in the engine, so it doesnt melt down, and ive had great luck with not popping any gaskets as of yet, but they are all stock engines. Id like to slightly build one but im worried about trashing it from the temps. Love the videos and the explanations you give. It shows a lot of knowledge in this aspect of machining.
Did you replace the valve lash adjusters (lifters)? I know when i did the 2 heads with bent valves they were all frozen up They were fairly inexpensive and with out replacing them several valves wouldn’t seal
Great video, yer comment would definitely make an excellent logo on a “hat “! Sometimes I know what I’m doing! Classic statement for any expert, or as my grandfather always told me “ I fix broken Shit , sometimes”! 👍 Always great to to see guys fixing/helping others for no other reason, than they can!
Very nice skill sets and layman’s terms. I believe the Ecotec’s based design originally was with Opel? Saab & Detroit assisted; which came into production vehicles for GM, Saturn, Opel, Saab, Chevy & Vauxhall. Not a bad engine if one does their preventive maintenance. But again they said that about the Northstar too.
I had several iteratons of this engine. I loved the 2004. The 2008 was OK, the 2012... not so good. The biggest issue with this engine is soot in the oil. Direct injection puts a lot of soot into the oil at startup. The timing chain has a problem with the soot and eventually breaks. As an interference engine we all know what a timing chain break will do (your looking at right now!). These engines are excellent if you change the oil often.
remeber the clamping forces in that timing box are nothing like what the head is seeing. i would expect that just about every head will exhibit that kind of warpage
Wonder if the step on the timing case didn’t compress the gasket as much as the deck area in general, and compensated for the smaller bolts / lesser bolt tension and the timing case deflection?
Can I ask why you surfaced the head before repairing the value issue, it seems the beautiful surface would be in danger of being damaged in later operations?
These ecotecs get a bad rep mostly due to lack of maintenance. Our fleet had tons of these we did oil changes every 3-4K miles never had an engine failure we got rid of them at 200k miles.
Hello, i have situation where one engine shop repaired rs4 b5 v6 5v per cylinder cossworth heads which were cracked between exhaust valves and into the spark plugs. After i take it back all of the heads threads were fucked, i mean cannot torque camshafts, threads went out just like some springs while tightening m6 bolts to 10-12nm. Same.with exhaust studs. I believe they overheated them, tried repairs with helicoils, but i dont teust them enough on hot - vibrating engine parts. What would be your advice? They are kind of expensive and hard to find without cracks, orher option is to get 2.7tt heads and port them to rs4 specs.
Ah my daily 2009 G5 2.2 vvt with 250k says different. But i do change the chain and kit every 150k for GP so theres that. Great job on that cyl head btw.
Can you do a video of something OHC that needs a bit of straightening too, like a Datsun L series or a Toyota 7M? Or a vid of a head that's had combustion chambers or surface defects welded up?
I had a question for the Q&A. Are there any books you'd recommend for learning how to do engine work? Im 23 and struggle to wrap my marble smooth brain around things at times in the home-shop.
I’ve been using Bridgeport to do some head work but have not tried surfacing with it. I have an 8.5” indexable face mill. Would that work for surfacing? Would I still run all the inserts, or just one or two? Thanks for your content
I have lost count of how many of these things I've seen pitch the timing chain at 100,000 miles. Especially in the equinox. Run don't walk from them!!!
2014 GMC Terrain 2.4L 123,061 miles. I just personally replaced the block (spun a bearing) with a 2010 Malibu block. Swapped my head over to other block since I have a high pressurized fuel pump in the head. What a project. GM engineers arent the smartest whatsoever, and this engine was 100% an engineering failure. GM wanted to be different, and while doing so, they completely fucked this series of engines. Its really unfortunate. You have to do oil changes before 3k miles otherwise those timing guides and the main tensioner are toast.
Hey Josh, I think I have one or two of these in the core pile. Been out there (side of the house) for a few years. it is snowing today but let me know if you need parts for it or find cam line screwed . I will look for it next week if you reply. I think we are close. Just respond here and i will see it in notifications. OMG that is a huge gap on the front end. LOL to the belt sanding comment. I hate it when I orders cores and I get one that has been belt sanded. Nothing like having to make a .015 cut to fix a belt sanding job.
@@EngineRehabi didn't know, at least it was a coherent thought. Getting a lathe in a month or two so i am trying to ingest as much machining content as possible. Go go gadget critical thinking
@@Super-Dave-Outdoors no no, it was a great idea, I’ve seen people do that very successfully. So good job for thinking with your monkey brain. And the lathe is my favorite machine.
they generally don't because of their shape, but when they do will become hard to start as the crankshaft binds. usually any grooves where the head gasket blew are visible. the danger with warped heads is that the camshaft will bind causing uneven wear.
..........................omg. i just found someone who can show me how to deck my b58 block n head for a ~1200hp supra build!........oh please machine my block for firelock headgasket!
The original Ecotecs were pretty solid. From 2003 to about 2009, the 2.2, 2.4, 2.0 s/c and 2.0T had issues, but nothing horrible. When they went to the direct injected 2.4 in the Equinox/Terrain and some Buicks, that engine was trash. They got rid of the pressed in iron cylinder sleeves, they reduced the size of the bolts that hold the chain guides. The result, they burned oil, the guide bolts would break off in the head or the block, the PCV system would plug with carbon and blow out the rear main, the high pressure fuel pump would leak fuel in to the crank case, chains would stretch… That engine was just a disaster.
Agreed, early Ecotecs were great but then GM beam counters did their thing.
You're a class act helping out Your neighbor Josh.
You're a sweetheart for helping out your neighbour (and she's a teacher to boot, those government cheques are slim as hell).
As for questions for a q&a; are there bits and cutters that it's okay to buy cheap, or is quality the be all and end all?
Where/how did you learn machining, and would you endorse one way of getting into machining over another?
Sounds like this question is getting in too.
I had one of these heads come in from a near new car with 9k miles. Had been in a collision, the body shop repaired it but never checked coolant. The radiator turned out to be damaged and the owner drove with it out of coolant and badly overheated it. The insurance company wanted it replaced, but no availability. The shop asked if I could fix it for the cost of replacing it. Sure!!!
It was twisted like a pretzel. Cams were not spinning smoothly. I ran it through the oven several cycles until the cams spun freely, but still had to take .016 off the deck. Cut all the seats and valves too, it was like everything moved. Ran nice after that.
That engine did originate from Saab, then Saturn got it 1st before the cavalier. We occasionally saw valve leakage/misfires under warranty, which usually was a result of sloppy valve guides. But once they went direct injection with em, I think they went down hill. I have 240K on my '07 Cobalt.
Nice
Spot on! These were pretty darn good other than a few with the valve guide issue. Total disaster when it to direct injection. Sure made a ton of money patching up these turds. Still get them with the rear seal popped out during the last cold spell.
I love it! I had a direct injected one. It was good. I’m sure the third owner is gonna get many good years out of it. Or maybe not. It was one of those, we didn’t want it out of warranty situations.
@@scrappy7571im in ohio and the shop im at, we have done 6 rear mains from the intakes freezing on the suvs. We have found that the pcv in the middle of the intake gets clogged causing the engine to condensate excessively, once we swapped the intake out, the condensation is very minimal. Also there is a gm oil fill cap that has a 3lb relief on it that we install in case the water freezes again (in the future) so it wont blow the rear seal out.
@02f4irider wow, I didn't know about the oil cap, i knew about the orifice and seal, but not the cap. Thanks
Love watching machining, especially when you and others like jamsi explain whats going on, with the straight edge, the mounting positions and the end results
Well thank you. Not everybody appreciates the partial usage of other’s monkey brains.
Excellent lead setting. Caint cut heavy , but avoids the "center dip," problem....Now , that "eco tech" seems to have roots into your childhood , olds 'quad4' and Pontiac version I call 'quad2' 2valve version ; looks very familiar to 2 disasters I worked on .
This engine was developed mostly in Europe and is no relation to the famous/infamous quad-4 that powered a lot of late 80's/ early 90's cars.
Got randomly sent here and enjoyed the whole experience
I love it! Thanks for coming along. This was a pretty tame video. Hope you enjoy.
Same here! It is a good quickie to get a feel for the channel. Subscribed
@@jasongreene303 glad to have you!
I've seen of few of the 2.4 heads crack near the exhaust manifold. Oil then leaks out from the lash adjuster oil galley.
I had a Saturn ion with the ecotec. It was by far the most reliable used car I've ever owned. If You happen to leave the lights on by accident, once the battery got down to roughly 12 volts or less it had a battery disconnect so it wouldn't totally kill the battery.
Oh that’s rad!
I agree with the light clamping and use of screw jacks.keep distortion down. they came in the rear wheel version Saturn Sky, Pontiac Solstice, Opel GT
The biggest problem ive had to experience with these is the bad water pump location it is timing chain driven and requires a special holding tool to change it still can be done in 3-4 hours but its more technical skill to change than a regular water pump if its your first time having to change one
Yeah that’s always a gripe. People got used to it, but not super easy!
Try a ford cologne 4.0, that thing is a turd
If you had to start from the scratch, how would you build up a machine shop? What are most common "sins" of machine shops? Couple of questions I could think of.
This is definitely going in the video!
Josh, do you have any recommendations on how to make head gaskets last a little longer if you are running an engine on the hotter side regularly. More specifically the 3100-3400 gm engines. I run demolition derbies and thats what we run in compact cars and often times the radiators get taken out. I do pay attention to the temp in the engine, so it doesnt melt down, and ive had great luck with not popping any gaskets as of yet, but they are all stock engines. Id like to slightly build one but im worried about trashing it from the temps. Love the videos and the explanations you give. It shows a lot of knowledge in this aspect of machining.
The roughness on the far side might be due to the offset cutter, allowing the tool to touch slightly going back across the head.
21:57 that’s way better than factory I agree and raise the compression up a bit to put a little pep in the step
Wont be enough to notice
What that isn't Thursday, I want my deposit back 🥃
Don't forget about the friends you get when you get a lift at home too 😂
Did you replace the valve lash adjusters (lifters)?
I know when i did the 2 heads with bent valves they were all frozen up
They were fairly inexpensive and with out replacing them several valves wouldn’t seal
Great video, yer comment would definitely make an excellent logo on a “hat “!
Sometimes I know what I’m doing! Classic statement for any expert, or as my grandfather always told me “ I fix broken Shit , sometimes”! 👍 Always great to to see guys fixing/helping others for no other reason, than they can!
I like helping out with simple stuff. Major repairs are scary enough for anybody! And it’s almost always unexpected.
Very nice skill sets and layman’s terms. I believe the Ecotec’s based design originally was with Opel? Saab & Detroit assisted; which came into production vehicles for GM, Saturn, Opel, Saab, Chevy & Vauxhall. Not a bad engine if one does their preventive maintenance. But again they said that about the Northstar too.
I believe the Ecotec's base design come from the 2.4L Quad 4.
That casting looks way better than that Ferrari!😂
That is because it is!
I had several iteratons of this engine. I loved the 2004. The 2008 was OK, the 2012... not so good. The biggest issue with this engine is soot in the oil. Direct injection puts a lot of soot into the oil at startup. The timing chain has a problem with the soot and eventually breaks. As an interference engine we all know what a timing chain break will do (your looking at right now!). These engines are excellent if you change the oil often.
Yikes that block was bad but really wholesome your helping her tough times for lots 😢
remeber the clamping forces in that timing box are nothing like what the head is seeing. i would expect that just about every head will exhibit that kind of warpage
Wonder if the step on the timing case didn’t compress the gasket as much as the deck area in general, and compensated for the smaller bolts / lesser bolt tension and the timing case deflection?
Can I ask why you surfaced the head before repairing the value issue, it seems the beautiful surface would be in danger of being damaged in later operations?
Nice cut! BTW the 2.4 was the best 4 cylinder gm ever made.
If this was a 2.2 ecotec, people were building monsters in the early 2000s. Did really well in the sport compact drag racing series
They got 1600 hp out of them
Looking good. Interesting engine.
Doesn't have to be a performance engine. Content is good! Keep um coming.
I very rarely get involved in stocker stuff. It’s fun because it’s easy!
These ecotecs get a bad rep mostly due to lack of maintenance. Our fleet had tons of these we did oil changes every 3-4K miles never had an engine failure we got rid of them at 200k miles.
Soot in the oil. If you change the oil often, these are pretty reliable. Most people don't change it often enough and the timing chain fails.
Hello, i have situation where one engine shop repaired rs4 b5 v6 5v per cylinder cossworth heads which were cracked between exhaust valves and into the spark plugs.
After i take it back all of the heads threads were fucked, i mean cannot torque camshafts, threads went out just like some springs while tightening m6 bolts to 10-12nm.
Same.with exhaust studs. I believe they overheated them, tried repairs with helicoils, but i dont teust them enough on hot - vibrating engine parts. What would be your advice? They are kind of expensive and hard to find without cracks, orher option is to get 2.7tt heads and port them to rs4 specs.
Better than the Vega! 😂
Not a very high standard.
Ah my daily 2009 G5 2.2 vvt with 250k says different. But i do change the chain and kit every 150k for GP so theres that. Great job on that cyl head btw.
Can you do a video of something OHC that needs a bit of straightening too, like a Datsun L series or a Toyota 7M?
Or a vid of a head that's had combustion chambers or surface defects welded up?
You’ll get the second option. Especially since i just replaced my welder
I bet getting those valves straightened is tricky. 😆
Legend is, he’s still grinding those valves to this day.
I'm building a 1971 vw motor for a dune buggy going to have it cleaned up any tips to look for when going through the motor.
How flat can you get that head surface on a Bridgeport with that much overhang and tool diameter?
Good video. What brand is that fly cutter?
I had a question for the Q&A.
Are there any books you'd recommend for learning how to do engine work?
Im 23 and struggle to wrap my marble smooth brain around things at times in the home-shop.
Congratulations. You made it in.
Came out great!!!!
I’ve been using Bridgeport to do some head work but have not tried surfacing with it. I have an 8.5” indexable face mill. Would that work for surfacing? Would I still run all the inserts, or just one or two? Thanks for your content
The guys running big facemills run all the inserts. Just gotta make sure they’re all at the same height. 8.5” will work for many engines.
just had to go though 6 engine tec values to get 2 good ones To use
The sell solid lifter and lightweight rocker arms from skunkworks porting to make them rev to 12k rpm its insane
Lots of fast cars with these engines
That guy is a scam artist! He’s well known for being one on Facebook
I have lost count of how many of these things I've seen pitch the timing chain at 100,000 miles. Especially in the equinox. Run don't walk from them!!!
User name checks out.
2014 GMC Terrain 2.4L 123,061 miles. I just personally replaced the block (spun a bearing) with a 2010 Malibu block. Swapped my head over to other block since I have a high pressurized fuel pump in the head. What a project. GM engineers arent the smartest whatsoever, and this engine was 100% an engineering failure. GM wanted to be different, and while doing so, they completely fucked this series of engines. Its really unfortunate. You have to do oil changes before 3k miles otherwise those timing guides and the main tensioner are toast.
Hey Josh, I think I have one or two of these in the core pile. Been out there (side of the house) for a few years. it is snowing today but let me know if you need parts for it or find cam line screwed . I will look for it next week if you reply. I think we are close. Just respond here and i will see it in notifications. OMG that is a huge gap on the front end. LOL to the belt sanding comment. I hate it when I orders cores and I get one that has been belt sanded. Nothing like having to make a .015 cut to fix a belt sanding job.
I do not want those! Thanks for offering!! We got it sorted. I appreciate it.
The R is invisible in Craptiva.
GMs most hated? No. That goes to the quad4 engines.
What's the info on the cutter in the KNEE MILL?
Who makes it?
Where can I get one for my KNEE MILL?
9x42” acra. You can buy a similar one called the big flycutter. Works well.
what fly cutter is that?
Our boy has once again disappeared, I pray he will soon return with a video about an engine that he is not particularly fond of.
I’m still here. Just enjoying retirement. Or was it unemployment? Same thing?
Is there a way to mount that head at an angle when you make a pass with the flycutter to cut the timing cover area in one pass?
Like 45° from the X-axis or whatever
I thought about it. It certainly would help, Still not wide enough.
@@EngineRehabi didn't know, at least it was a coherent thought.
Getting a lathe in a month or two so i am trying to ingest as much machining content as possible. Go go gadget critical thinking
@@Super-Dave-Outdoors no no, it was a great idea, I’ve seen people do that very successfully. So good job for thinking with your monkey brain. And the lathe is my favorite machine.
Oh. Since you mentioned the valve made contact with the piston, aren’t you replacing them? I thought I heard you say you were installing tonight?
It was done off camera.
@@EngineRehab the valves ?
@@bruceyoung1343 yes
@@EngineRehab was hoping that would of been on a video
Womp womp
what about the block?
being an engine neophyte any chance for warppage?
they generally don't because of their shape, but when they do will become hard to start as the crankshaft binds. usually any grooves where the head gasket blew are visible. the danger with warped heads is that the camshaft will bind causing uneven wear.
You ok bro? It's been a minute.
I would love a milling machine.
My LHU's been quite reliable so far.
Nice! Mine was an LTG.
Where can I get a serfacer head like yours?
It is just a knee mill
@@EngineRehab i have a knee mill but it doesn't have a surfacer head like you have...
so info on the cutty part jammed up in the knee mill please?
@@EngineRehab and don't worry, I won't take work from you, its for my own junk
@@AndyFromm look up big flycutter
@@EngineRehab you told me that 9hrs ago, I was hoping for a brand.
no issues for 50k miles? at 50001 and ate itsself?
Alfa romeo brera uses the l61
Bumping uglies with the pistons…😂👍👍👍
I’ve got a manual ls cavalier 96 2.4, the car is shit but man that motor makes crazy power.
Daylight through the valves without cam pressure on them, that's not good
Dammit i over slept 2 hours late ARGGH !
I’ll see you for the next one!
That was a tease
Good tease or bad tease. Wait, there’s no such thing as a bad tease.
Team Kendrick?💪
You haven't dealt with the ford cologne 4.0 turd
I know it well.
You pull her head and she pulls yours???
..........................omg. i just found someone who can show me how to deck my b58 block n head for a ~1200hp supra build!........oh please machine my block for firelock headgasket!
I hate this eco tec engines. I was just saying the other day how much I hate these engines.
Please remove those draw strings from hoodie.
im sorry but the cavie was and still is way better cars than bolts
Who are you to disrespect Canada’s good name?
Watch your mouth!
Kraft dinner sucks.