I made one of your work holders and it worked well but for me I needed a lot of time to shim things up - I do a lot of small wood discs - each one of varying thickness. I now mainly use a work table that is very effective for me - I can set up a new piece in a few seconds. Incredibly sophisticated in one way - ease and speed of adjustment - but incredibly unsophisticated to make. I can send you a picture. All it is, is an open topped 9 x 13 inch box filled with corn kernels (might work as well with beans or something). My box is about 2 1/2 inches deep on the inside so will accommodate pieces about that thick. The top of the box is at the focal distance below the laser. All you do is submerge the object in the corn kernels until a ruler runs across the object to the two sides. Usually only a few seconds to get the next piece ready to be lasered.
Best idea for an adjustable bed I've seen yet. I just subscribed to your channel and will be looking through your other videos as well. Thanks for the inspiration!
Its amazing how the simple design is likely the best one. I sitting here trying to design some motorized bed with pulleys and shit and I see this and its so fuking simple yet absolutely genius. Good friggen idea. I'm making that.
Sir, it is the best reference to follow. I will copy the K40 table for you. I will also copy the focus air system; the flexible spiral tube solves the problem of guide chains. I thank you for sharing your clever works. You have one more subscriber.
Good idea! The only issue I could see is that for small pieces, being pinched on just one side seems like it's lifting up the opposite side slightly. For long lenses this probably doesn't matter but for small detailed engraving, it seems like it might throw it out of focus a bit.
I may have figured out my own question below. Does this sound like it would work to cut thicker materials? I'm guessing put something half it's thickness in the spring-load then set the piece to be cut on top of the expanded metal?
Why don't you put the wood in the middle, and use two sticks (strong ones) in a clutch of the spring. That way it will keep the wood in place. While having a platform that way the wood will also be forced to be straight?
Well, that is ingenious since these machines lack a Z height adjustment that the 50W, or higher, versions have as they move the bed up or down. That is one reason I just can't bring myself to buy a K40 but that is only one out of three reasons but it is the biggest reason.
There are numerous Z height mods for the K40, all relatively cheap. For the Price they want for a K50, You can buy a K40, Mod the Bed (and inversely also enlarge the print area a bit), Buy a 50w Tube, and upgrade power supply, for cheaper then the cost of a K50.
I'd like to know more about this. What suppliers for the materials? I've seen a 60W tube on Amazon, but I've been told I'd need (a) a 60W power supply, (b) cut a hole in the side for the longer tube, (c) a 60W fuse, (d) a pressurized [?] water pumping supply . . . and it made me wonder if I'd also have to change the meter on the panel and anything else in the control panel board. Can you post any links?
@Kenneth White This is true but the K50 has a much bigger bed to it. I was looking at a K50 and a K60 and the K60 I can't even get in my house. It weighs 450 pounds and is just too big in all dimensions to get in and I do not have a garage (most homes don't in my state). The K50 will work. Now let us also realize that it comes with a roller Y adapter that wouldn't even fit in a K40.
@jbrondos this is why I am leaning towards the K50 because it has all of that already and it already has a side opening for a longer tube (some K50 models come with the extension already on it). In my opinion the K40 should be about 100-200 dollars delivered and the K50 around 600 and the K60+ over a grand due to them being geared for a small business in weight and pure size. Oddly enough the K60 does not come with a glass roller for Y and nor does the K40 but the K50 does. What I did find was one really nice roller assembly for 250 dollars (over priced) that had a tail stock and a head stock and was basically a lathe for it but used a stepper instead of a motor. That is the best kind to have and will hold up to 120mm diameter object 250mm long.
Interesting idea, how is acrylic working for you as I too have used the diamond screen too for a bed however the reflection back creates a pattern which matches the screen in the material...
I have a hard time cutting through index card stock with my K40, even with a double-pass and dial cranked to max. I'd like to be able to cut through 3mm basswood. Is that most likely due to (a) alignment of mirrors, (b) power of laser tube, (c) focal point, (d) other? Or is cutting through 3 mm basswood an impossibility with a K40 machine?
I regularly cut .2" material with the focus at the top surface. If you want to focus in the miplane of the material you could just set the height by putting a couple of scraps that are 1/2 the thickness yo plan to cut in the spring table. I have not found a need to do that.
This is such a good idea. I do have one question though. When you insert your material the top of the material is at the laser's focal point you say. So is this then only for engraving? I was told that the focal point should be halfway in the middle of the thickness of your material for cutting. Is this correct? If so, how do you compensate for the thickness of the material? I have this little perspex thing I got with the K40 to check for height under the focal point/laser head. How should this be used then? Thanks in advance
I engrave and cut with the focus point at the top of the material. I have hot had any problems working that way. I understand that it might be more ideal to cut with the focus at the middle of the material but if you are going to do any engraving on things before you cut you probably want the engraving in focus. That would required changing the focus height between operations which this setup would definitely not be good for. In the end everyone has to look at what their application is and find the bed/setup that meets their needs. A side note: I really like having the part held in place by the spring. Before I had the spring loaded bed I had a couple of light parts move on me during engraving/cutting.
@@ScorchWorks Thanks for taking the time to reply. I agree with you, and love the idea of the springs holding it in place. How about this idea.....? Let's say you want to cut 6mm MDF (for now, let's assume that the K40 CAN cut 6mm MDF), you then adjust your bed settings so that the focal point is 3mm below the surface of your work piece. Then, if you want to engrave, you use 3mm off cuts to shim your workpiece down a further 3mm. That way your workpiece should be perfect focus for engraving. Once done, you remove your shims and proceed with cutting your 6mm MDF. However, it should be noted that you need some kind of jig/setup to make sure that the work piece remains in the exact same spot. I know this might not be a perfect solution, but what do you think? Thanks.
@@cfworks1307 I would shy away from moving anything between operations. You might want to experiment a bit to determine if moving the focal distance is worth the effort.
@@ScorchWorks I will definitely do so. Hopefully today I will get around building your table. The other thing I need to sort out is the extraction of the fumes. Last night's perspex engraving was a nasty experience lol
It wasn't too terrible. The worst part is that you need to alight the mirrors after it is all done. I would not recommend doing it when you are in a hurry. It is worth taking your time. I actually had the rails out for a different reason (I was trouble shooting something.) when I drilled and tapped them. I put the holes in to the rails not knowing what I was going to use them for.
would you be willing to make this set and sell ?? I want one , I need one :) be willing to buy one if you can make for me . I'm out of California thanks great video
I use it with leather. No problem. If I ever need to do a very soft material it I might need to us a shim of the correct thikness. I have not run into that yet.
I made one of your work holders and it worked well but for me I needed a lot of time to shim things up - I do a lot of small wood discs - each one of varying thickness.
I now mainly use a work table that is very effective for me - I can set up a new piece in a few seconds. Incredibly sophisticated in one way - ease and speed of adjustment - but incredibly unsophisticated to make. I can send you a picture. All it is, is an open topped 9 x 13 inch box filled with corn kernels (might work as well with beans or something). My box is about 2 1/2 inches deep on the inside so will accommodate pieces about that thick. The top of the box is at the focal distance below the laser. All you do is submerge the object in the corn kernels until a ruler runs across the object to the two sides. Usually only a few seconds to get the next piece ready to be lasered.
Best idea for an adjustable bed I've seen yet. I just subscribed to your channel and will be looking through your other videos as well. Thanks for the inspiration!
I just stumbled across this today. Pretty ingenious design.
Ingenious, the adjustable beds are great but this is so simple why complicate. Thanks
That's the best idea I've seen so far.
This is a genius idea. Simple and works well
Its amazing how the simple design is likely the best one. I sitting here trying to design some motorized bed with pulleys and shit and I see this and its so fuking simple yet absolutely genius. Good friggen idea. I'm making that.
Sir, it is the best reference to follow. I will copy the K40 table for you. I will also copy the focus air system; the flexible spiral tube solves the problem of guide chains.
I thank you for sharing your clever works. You have one more subscriber.
Pretty Ingenious! Thanks for sharing!
Great Idea, I believe I'll build one for mine with a couple small modifications to suit what I do. Thank you!!
Brilliant idea!
Good idea! The only issue I could see is that for small pieces, being pinched on just one side seems like it's lifting up the opposite side slightly. For long lenses this probably doesn't matter but for small detailed engraving, it seems like it might throw it out of focus a bit.
Nice job!
Great solution!
Great solution.
Tnx for sharing
Outstanding solution! Thanks for sharing it!
Thanx Bravo, that was helpful.
So Simply ...... Thanks for sharing
Great idea, I will copy this.
What is that hose you use for your air assist?
wow. Just right. Thank you!
I may have figured out my own question below. Does this sound like it would work to cut thicker materials?
I'm guessing put something half it's thickness in the spring-load then set the piece to be cut on top of the expanded metal?
Yep, that would work. I normally cut .2" material and have not needed to adjust the focus off of the top.
I freaking love it
Why don't you put the wood in the middle, and use two sticks (strong ones) in a clutch of the spring. That way it will keep the wood in place. While having a platform that way the wood will also be forced to be straight?
Well, that is ingenious since these machines lack a Z height adjustment that the 50W, or higher, versions have as they move the bed up or down. That is one reason I just can't bring myself to buy a K40 but that is only one out of three reasons but it is the biggest reason.
There are numerous Z height mods for the K40, all relatively cheap. For the Price they want for a K50, You can buy a K40, Mod the Bed (and inversely also enlarge the print area a bit), Buy a 50w Tube, and upgrade power supply, for cheaper then the cost of a K50.
I'd like to know more about this. What suppliers for the materials? I've seen a 60W tube on Amazon, but I've been told I'd need (a) a 60W power supply, (b) cut a hole in the side for the longer tube, (c) a 60W fuse, (d) a pressurized [?] water pumping supply . . . and it made me wonder if I'd also have to change the meter on the panel and anything else in the control panel board. Can you post any links?
@Kenneth White This is true but the K50 has a much bigger bed to it. I was looking at a K50 and a K60 and the K60 I can't even get in my house. It weighs 450 pounds and is just too big in all dimensions to get in and I do not have a garage (most homes don't in my state). The K50 will work. Now let us also realize that it comes with a roller Y adapter that wouldn't even fit in a K40.
@jbrondos this is why I am leaning towards the K50 because it has all of that already and it already has a side opening for a longer tube (some K50 models come with the extension already on it). In my opinion the K40 should be about 100-200 dollars delivered and the K50 around 600 and the K60+ over a grand due to them being geared for a small business in weight and pure size. Oddly enough the K60 does not come with a glass roller for Y and nor does the K40 but the K50 does. What I did find was one really nice roller assembly for 250 dollars (over priced) that had a tail stock and a head stock and was basically a lathe for it but used a stepper instead of a motor. That is the best kind to have and will hold up to 120mm diameter object 250mm long.
cool stuff!
Very nice. Thanks!
Very slick. thanks.
Interesting idea, how is acrylic working for you as I too have used the diamond screen too for a bed however the reflection back creates a pattern which matches the screen in the material...
I have not cut acrylic yet. If I have a part that I am worried about backburn on I use the steel rods I show in the video to hold the part up.
I have a hard time cutting through index card stock with my K40, even with a double-pass and dial cranked to max. I'd like to be able to cut through 3mm basswood. Is that most likely due to (a) alignment of mirrors, (b) power of laser tube, (c) focal point, (d) other? Or is cutting through 3 mm basswood an impossibility with a K40 machine?
Perfect!
clever
Would you be willing to sell one? This is by far the best system I have seen so far and would be willing to buy one from you.
No, sorry I don't sell these.
Hello. I really am looking to do this. But how do you focus for cutting thicker material where I can't just rely on the regular focus length?
Thanks
I regularly cut .2" material with the focus at the top surface. If you want to focus in the miplane of the material you could just set the height by putting a couple of scraps that are 1/2 the thickness yo plan to cut in the spring table. I have not found a need to do that.
This is great. Do you sell this as a kit?
No
This is such a good idea. I do have one question though.
When you insert your material the top of the material is at the laser's focal point you say. So is this then only for engraving? I was told that the focal point should be halfway in the middle of the thickness of your material for cutting. Is this correct? If so, how do you compensate for the thickness of the material? I have this little perspex thing I got with the K40 to check for height under the focal point/laser head. How should this be used then?
Thanks in advance
I engrave and cut with the focus point at the top of the material. I have hot had any problems working that way. I understand that it might be more ideal to cut with the focus at the middle of the material but if you are going to do any engraving on things before you cut you probably want the engraving in focus. That would required changing the focus height between operations which this setup would definitely not be good for. In the end everyone has to look at what their application is and find the bed/setup that meets their needs. A side note: I really like having the part held in place by the spring. Before I had the spring loaded bed I had a couple of light parts move on me during engraving/cutting.
@@ScorchWorks Thanks for taking the time to reply. I agree with you, and love the idea of the springs holding it in place.
How about this idea.....?
Let's say you want to cut 6mm MDF (for now, let's assume that the K40 CAN cut 6mm MDF), you then adjust your bed settings so that the focal point is 3mm below the surface of your work piece. Then, if you want to engrave, you use 3mm off cuts to shim your workpiece down a further 3mm. That way your workpiece should be perfect focus for engraving. Once done, you remove your shims and proceed with cutting your 6mm MDF. However, it should be noted that you need some kind of jig/setup to make sure that the work piece remains in the exact same spot.
I know this might not be a perfect solution, but what do you think?
Thanks.
@@cfworks1307 I would shy away from moving anything between operations. You might want to experiment a bit to determine if moving the focal distance is worth the effort.
@@ScorchWorks I will definitely do so. Hopefully today I will get around building your table. The other thing I need to sort out is the extraction of the fumes. Last night's perspex engraving was a nasty experience lol
Did you upload your 3d printed parts on thingyverse?
The parts are on YouMagine www.youmagine.com/designs/spring-loaded-laser-platform
Scorch Works this is by far the best design I’ve seen! Stupid simple!
How hard is it to pull the rails out to drill n tap them?
It wasn't too terrible. The worst part is that you need to alight the mirrors after it is all done. I would not recommend doing it when you are in a hurry. It is worth taking your time. I actually had the rails out for a different reason (I was trouble shooting something.) when I drilled and tapped them. I put the holes in to the rails not knowing what I was going to use them for.
Do you have the 3d printed stand-off plans available for download?
I have never uploded the model anywhere. I am not sure if the height is perfect.
Scorch Works you should put them up. I want to do this same mod as well. I dont know where to begin with the height on those though.
Cream Stout I will try to remember to post them next week when I have access to the files.
Awesome, thank you!
I posted what I have here: www.youmagine.com/designs/spring-loaded-laser-platform
Is your Air assist nozzle in this video 3D printed? If so do you have a link to the stl file?
Yes, it is 3D printed.
www.youmagine.com/designs/k40-air-assist-nozzle
smart
Any video available of taking the rails out to drill and tap them?
I don't know of any.
So you didn't do any video then?
Sotm No, I didn't.
would you be willing to make this set and sell ?? I want one , I need one :) be willing to buy one if you can make for me . I'm out of California thanks great video
Sorry, I do not make kits.
probably wont work on soft materials like leathers and stuff
I use it with leather. No problem. If I ever need to do a very soft material it I might need to us a shim of the correct thikness. I have not run into that yet.
I'd pay for you to go to college and earn an Engineering degree and go to NASA on my dime. Bro ... #saveNasa.