Great video as always from you, thanks. Is the timing belt something a diyer could do with enough research etc ? I watched video and feel capable. Thinking my 1.9 cdti 120 Vectra might need a head gasket and was a bit worried about doing the timing belt but it doesn't look too difficult. Thanks
@@Arounadabout I guess it's a bit late to reply but just in case you didn't start the job: I got a box on ebay with all the tools for fiat alpha etc.. ( i have the same engine). It turns out it was not absolutely necessary. As you can see in his other video, he seems to unscrew the crankshaft pulley ( the one holding the auxiliary belt) without doing anything particular. I suppose the car was in gear and that the compression of the engine is enough to stop it from moving. These 4 screws are only tightened at 25nm so they are easy to unscrew. I used the flywheel locking tool but I guess it's mostly handy when you want to change the crankshaft oil seal because the bolt is tightened at 340nm. Read my other comment if you have trouble with the tensioner's needle not moving, I just had to make a few turns with the crankshaft and the belt tension evened out and it made it easier. The other special tool that looks a bit like a key shape that you screw on the crankshaft and on the oil pump just makes sure the crankshaft doesn't start moving I think. I actually couldn't really figure out why one needed to put this tool. If you put the marks like he said on his other video, worst case scenario is that the crank moves a bit and you just put it back on the mark. He just blocks the crankcase with a piece of wood which keeps it from moving.
I am just trying to find out which tool i need to use to tighten my tensioner pulley for the timing belt? i popped the cover off the timing belt and the belt was in perfect shape. The only issue was that to the right mid, the idler pulley was broken. Now i am testing my theory of just tightening the tensioner pulley so the belt is tight enough to turn when i start my car! before going to the shop because they say its an interference engine and might not be worth it if the valves are broken, so if i could just tighten to the tensioner to see if it starts up then it would be worth having repaired. Urgent
Hey Fix and Drive, My engine is the same but the tensioner has a bolt instead of a screw. The thing is I can't seem to make the arrow move when I push the tensioner. I guess I have to try and push harder, I will try and put a bolt like you did. You think it could be for another reason that it doesn't move? When I removed the old belt, the arrow from the old tensioner was not on the hole, it was way down, I assumed the previous mechanic did a mistake. But now I'm wondering what is going on. I stopped for today but will try and finish it tomorrow. Cheers Edit: I figured it out. I needed to just tension it the most I could and then make a few turns with the crankshaft manually and then I was able to move the tensioner enough that the arrow started moving.
@@terranoid7300 not that I recall. The tensioner tends to get some slack with time. You have to turn the crank a few times to make sure you have a good tension, you will see the dial moving when it turns
A question! What if the arrow on the tensioner moves out of default position while rotating the engine two revolutions by hand? Is that supposed to happen?
Tu masz wszystko. Uważam ten test za wiarygodny. Wtedy jeszcze nie było takiego testu autokult.pl/38410,adac-sprawdzil-caloroczne-opony-do-suv-ow-efekty-nie-byly-zachwycajace
Hi I noticed after replacing the tentioner, that when the engine is running, this little arrow quite quickly moves up and down. Do you know whether or not this is supposed to happen? It seems odd to me, because so far, all other tentioners that I've seen just provide tension and do not relax the belt at any time. Whereas this one seems to tention/relax constantly. And when you shut down the engine, the belt is tensioned, but if you press on the belt it gets relatively loose. I hope you have a idea of whether or not this is normal
correctly fitted tensioner always moves while the engine is working. When you press the belt while the engine is shut down, the arrow should move up. If it doesn't move, it means it was tightened too much
Thank you very much for the video and the reply. Is there any way to check if it is mounted correctly after letting the engine run already? For instance, in my case, the arrow is going up and down just a little above and below the indicator hole.
Thanks, for this guide. Very informative and easy to follow. Saved me time, and money.
Perfect video. 2017 jeep renegade 2.0 multijet diesel timing complete
Thank You i'm doing my timing belt change next week !
Perfect video. Helps a lot.
Thanks for a great clear instruction video. 👍👍👍👍😎
Wow. Extremely helpful video. Thanks bud...
hellow, can you tell whats thq torq for the secon pully?
As I remember this video shows all torque specs ua-cam.com/video/_NA5nXbQ76U/v-deo.html
Great video as always from you, thanks.
Is the timing belt something a diyer could do with enough research etc ? I watched video and feel capable.
Thinking my 1.9 cdti 120 Vectra might need a head gasket and was a bit worried about doing the timing belt but it doesn't look too difficult. Thanks
If you feel capable, go ahead :)
@@fixanddrive can I use the locking tools as well as to be extra sure it's all in time or is there really no need ? Thanks
@@Arounadabout I guess it's a bit late to reply but just in case you didn't start the job: I got a box on ebay with all the tools for fiat alpha etc.. ( i have the same engine). It turns out it was not absolutely necessary. As you can see in his other video, he seems to unscrew the crankshaft pulley ( the one holding the auxiliary belt) without doing anything particular. I suppose the car was in gear and that the compression of the engine is enough to stop it from moving. These 4 screws are only tightened at 25nm so they are easy to unscrew. I used the flywheel locking tool but I guess it's mostly handy when you want to change the crankshaft oil seal because the bolt is tightened at 340nm. Read my other comment if you have trouble with the tensioner's needle not moving, I just had to make a few turns with the crankshaft and the belt tension evened out and it made it easier. The other special tool that looks a bit like a key shape that you screw on the crankshaft and on the oil pump just makes sure the crankshaft doesn't start moving I think. I actually couldn't really figure out why one needed to put this tool. If you put the marks like he said on his other video, worst case scenario is that the crank moves a bit and you just put it back on the mark. He just blocks the crankcase with a piece of wood which keeps it from moving.
I am just trying to find out which tool i need to use to tighten my tensioner pulley for the timing belt? i popped the cover off the timing belt and the belt was in perfect shape. The only issue was that to the right mid, the idler pulley was broken. Now i am testing my theory of just tightening the tensioner pulley so the belt is tight enough to turn when i start my car! before going to the shop because they say its an interference engine and might not be worth it if the valves are broken, so if i could just tighten to the tensioner to see if it starts up then it would be worth having repaired. Urgent
Does the pin on the right have to align in center of the hole or next to
it just holds the tensioner in place, prevents it from rotatating. It doesn't matter where it is exactly.
Hey Fix and Drive, My engine is the same but the tensioner has a bolt instead of a screw. The thing is I can't seem to make the arrow move when I push the tensioner. I guess I have to try and push harder, I will try and put a bolt like you did. You think it could be for another reason that it doesn't move? When I removed the old belt, the arrow from the old tensioner was not on the hole, it was way down, I assumed the previous mechanic did a mistake. But now I'm wondering what is going on. I stopped for today but will try and finish it tomorrow. Cheers
Edit: I figured it out. I needed to just tension it the most I could and then make a few turns with the crankshaft manually and then I was able to move the tensioner enough that the arrow started moving.
Did your tensioner or water pump had a rattle/noise because this under tight by previous mechanic? Cheers
@@terranoid7300 not that I recall. The tensioner tends to get some slack with time. You have to turn the crank a few times to make sure you have a good tension, you will see the dial moving when it turns
Hi does it matter if the fuel pump is moved while the belt is off? All your videos have saved me a fortune thank you
A question! What if the arrow on the tensioner moves out of default position while rotating the engine two revolutions by hand? Is that supposed to happen?
yes, it's nothing to worry about
very helpfull, thanks
I see you wedged a piece of wood to lock the crank, did you also lock the cam? wondering if it's worth buying the timing tool
don't waste money on those tools. See the whole job here: ua-cam.com/video/_NA5nXbQ76U/v-deo.html
Fix and Drive Haha nice, thank you! An additional £60 saved
On jtd engine,is it posible to replace just a water pump without removing belt?
I have a noise coming from timing chain area what that could be on Vauxhall vectra 1.9 cdti
Tu masz wszystko. Uważam ten test za wiarygodny. Wtedy jeszcze nie było takiego testu
autokult.pl/38410,adac-sprawdzil-caloroczne-opony-do-suv-ow-efekty-nie-byly-zachwycajace
thanks a lot
Thanks. What a stupid system. Couldnt find this. Thx for the video
Hi
I noticed after replacing the tentioner, that when the engine is running, this little arrow quite quickly moves up and down.
Do you know whether or not this is supposed to happen?
It seems odd to me, because so far, all other tentioners that I've seen just provide tension and do not relax the belt at any time. Whereas this one seems to tention/relax constantly.
And when you shut down the engine, the belt is tensioned, but if you press on the belt it gets relatively loose.
I hope you have a idea of whether or not this is normal
correctly fitted tensioner always moves while the engine is working. When you press the belt while the engine is shut down, the arrow should move up. If it doesn't move, it means it was tightened too much
Thank you very much for the video and the reply.
Is there any way to check if it is mounted correctly after letting the engine run already?
For instance, in my case, the arrow is going up and down just a little above and below the indicator hole.
What do you get when you put together Fiat and GM!
CRAP!