Cylinder Head 106 - Casting & Porting Tech
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- Description.
No really guys, what can I type here? I just went on for 18 minutes without shutting up. I apologize for deviating from my normal format, but we're almost there...
...when I port a head, there will be no voiceover, and it will be a 200-series video.
The Internet is lucky to have people like you.
I agree his a gem
flavourboss you mean UA-cam. You do not need internet for UA-cam
i was speaking of the ridge between the exhaust port and the manifold wich helps to prevent backflow.
i knew about the speed of the gas and the size ansd shape of the exit.
i found nothing on the backflow and this ridge.
you wrote "As gasses expand, they cool" ?
they are slower as they cool because they take less volume and loose vivacity as i know.
i missed something ?
one question : i can read on the net that exhaust flange should be wider than the port itself to create a ridge.
it's supposed to prevent backflow in the port
excepted if you have a supercharger (so a load even at low rpm and no scavenging effect required as i understand that) you're supposed to keep the ridge.
so to have the port matched to the manifold flange is a mistake that i did.
what do you know about that ?
i found nothing.
A refreshing educational to the point, no nonsense, perfectly explained and articulated video that can be applied to all heads. If your thinking of picking up a die grinder and doing some head work; this is all you have to watch.. Nicely done; thank you...
What do they say about knife edges in it ?
Read, research and read some more. Im in the same boat as you, I love cars, but I do not have much hands on experience. Just watching these kinds of videos, reading forums and reading other resources online has really helped my understanding. Unless you can buy a cheap car to work on without fear of messing stuff up, it will just take time reading and watching stuff online.
you have to combine the two in a port.
very slight conical shaped main gallery then wider just before the valve guide to compensate this obstacle by slowing down the flow gaining pressure.
you need to have a larger side of the of the valve guide more than the other to have a better bias effect and better flow.
there is a guy doing heads for bikes that reduced the diameter of the intake ports and he has more hp than the others because of the higher speed of his mixture.
better efficiency
I love your genius use of the fast foreward
I am a Subaru guy and I ported (removed castings and smoothed all exhaust sides to a mirror). I really enjoy the vids man!
That’s a nice flex handpiece for your dremel, looks nicer than dremels own
I've worked with pressure die cast tooling, and "flash" as we knew it by was quite a problem at times, usually the result of poor bedding in of mating die steels, or core pin mis-match. Net result was it meant another tooling operation to trim it off which cost time & money & so on. Excellent video once again. Nice to see a Mic once more... :-)
Great videos mate. Once you finished all the grinding and polishing how or what do you use to clean the head before you re-build it. Many thanks from over the pond UK
I have a ton of respect for you. Ur hard work definitely shows here. I haven't seen a block look that nice in a while. I am starting a Ver6 STi RA build, and I really want to take the time to make my engine look nice. I do want more power, but I like to take pride in my work as it looks like u do as well, so I'd like it to look like yours does. You have inspired me to learn as much as I possibly can about flow. Thank you for your videos, and please continue to post more!
8:40 this sharp edge is the disagreement .
you create lift and turbulences while the stock round edge keep a calm laminar flow like on the nose of a submarine.
i mean the first contact point of the air in your port will be this edge : if you kill the quality of the flow here the rest of the port will suffer of those turbulences.
My technical vocabulary is quite limited i'm not North American.
i hope you understood this time. ; )
The best video I've ever watched about port and polish. Thanks a lot!!!
Big big help. Im starting to port my foxbody heads tomorrow. And your videos just gave me all the extra info i need. 2 thumbs up for sure.
Thoughts on grinding the bottom of the seat on the intake side. There is a step there it's like hitting a wall. Also grinding the valve seal smooth. And just clean the casting lines up. And a gasket match.
All this reference material... really does make my day, thanks jafro.
I just noticed the rough casting flaw in the edge of your combustion dome. Have you done anything with this, or just run it as is?
wow im really glad i came across these videos. i appreciate your in-depth details and instruction. wish more people did this.
here i am again watching another porting video of yours, more than likely i will follow it up with the porting and polishing video which will make it the fourth time watching the polishing video lmao, clearly addicted to shiny things.
You Too?!?
excellent video. Ive been hand porting cylinder heads since I was 14.
You've managed to touch on most of the important area's when thinking about porting jobs. too high a port velocity also affect performance just as much as low velocity ports and it all ties in with where in the rev range you want to make max torque.
I use a big electric die grinder for porting like the one you say not to use. One trick to slowing it down a bit is to make a short extension cord with a junction box on the end. Wire an outlet to a dimmer switch in the junction box.
Great mechanic here. I have watched this video before but I can always learn.
hi i like your clip, i used to port heads 25 years ago and i used to back up what i found on engine dynes so i know a little about porting . what a lot of people forget is fuel flows throw the port as well and that is wear a thing called swirl is very very important, and fuel control throw the port how you do that DO NOT MATCH PORT because the fuel will trace along the wall of the port you need to get that back up into the air flow so it can mix with air so your not wasting fuel this means more power and better fuel economy . how do you do that is went you blow air across a 90 degree angle you creat a low pressure witch can draw on a liquid say with when blow air over a straw in water it will draw the water up the straw and into the air stream . now if the intake port is larger than the intake runner or manifold by 1/8 of an inch you will make a step witch is a 90 degree so when the fuel is traveling down the wall of the runner it will come to the step and pool the air stream will pull the fuel back up into the air stream . i now you get better flow figure on a flow bench, but when you dyno the engine you don't get the HP when you step just the intake you get a richer mixture on the dyne when you lean the mixture out up comes the HP if you don't believe me try it thanks jake
+TheJVR333 Hmmm, you obviously know way more than I do, but I'm wondering if this is truer with fuel pulled from a carburetor than from a misting fuel injector?
Great advise and good communication skills. Appreciate the time you took to document this.
Excellent video, very honest narration and a topic not many people cover very well.
Thanks for the upload!
Most helpful video on porting heads Ever .. thank you
i could watch this all day...
i love your videos! i cant wait till you do the 200 series video where you actually do some port work. keep up the good work man. ive learned so much from your videos. thanks for doing all of this.
would it help to put some sort of tape over the 'no griding areas' just in case you fatigue while doing the above?
Thanks for the feedback; I have another question if you don't mind. What all do I have to do if I need to change out my rings. I did a leak down test on one of my cylinder and the compression is low. I saw you video on the block. Do I have to hone it out if all is in order or can I put them in like that? Is there any way to test them before putting this motor back in. please keep the video coming. This is my first year in auto school. Thanks a million for your help
Great vid. Only recommendation I would add is get a swivel fitting for your die grinder. That way you're not contending with the weight of the air hose. I use swivel fittings on every small air tool I own and it makes one heckuva difference.
+Mark - Awesome!
Great video. Just wanted to add something, if for whatever reason you do your own porting and you wind up flowing slightly more air into certain cylinders than others because of uneven porting, you have another option to correct that mistake without going to a machine shop. Get your hands on an ECU that offers individual cylinder tuning as a feature, this way you can dial in your air/fuel with each cylinder individually using multiple O2 sensors, and not just collectively using one O2 sensor...
i love how your vids now have royal purple ads at the beginning..it feels like im tuning into Horsepower TV and your vids are way better! thumbs up dude!
Any time heads come off it is always a good idea to remove the flashing. I have done that since I was 16 and i'm old lol
I hope you’re still active jafro, building a 6 bolt for a colt swap. Do you recommend ditching the 1G head? Worried Id be making a crazy amount of extra work. Is the flow that much better on the 2 g head
Great write ups on your channel. Very informative
Tape actually works wonders to prevent oops when working around the valve seats. It's usually enough to let you get away with that first "oops", which is usually all you need. :)
a perfect score.... you can bore out the sides of turbo intake/exhaust ports, but like you've stated, it ruins atomization and velocity levels
FYI: I do have experience porting cylinder heads, however I am only a novice. Just some general tips before anyone begins to port out a head. 1) TAKE YOUR TIME...rushing on a crucial engine part such as a cylinder head is only going to hurt you. 2) Make sure you have the proper tooling, die grinder, rotary files, stones, etc. 3) Clean your head, nothing to obstruct your vision. 4) Let there be light (have ample light going into the runner or whatever you are working on).
ahhhhhh, its like drinking a well earned beer, the satisfaction i derive from watching your videos!
Great video's, I learn a ton from everyone.. Especially anything that can be ported.. You mentioned there was no way available to slow the speed of an electric die grinder when in actuality harbor freight sells a router speed controller, basically a reostat that can allow one to slow the speed of an electric die grinder for example..I own the speed controller and harbor freight long reach electric die grinder and the speed controller makes all the difference in the world..Also have a makita electric long reach die grinder with build in speed settings so it is possible to slow the speed to your situation, just thought I'd share that bit of info... Hope it helps someone else who reads this.. Thank you once again for your channel, There are some video's that I rewatch especially in the Coronavirus lock down that I learn so much from..One can never be to overly informed..I try to be a sponge and absorb as much useful knowledge as possible on a daily basis.. There are not many folks that put forth the time and effort as you do and it's appreciated.. Even the pokes & jokes make it all worth while..
Thanks again for great video content..
Thank you for the video, great explanation, took a lot of the mysteries out of it for me!
Why is a 130w dremel not enough ? I find it perfect with carbide burrs for coarse work and very nice with a flex shaft for finishing. I even ball ported a head with one.
It's just a little on the slow side, that's all. It doesn't have anywhere near the torque and speed of air tools with 100+PSI behind them. With the exact same careful hands using air tools, you can deliver the same results in a fraction of the time. The Dremel makes up for its lack of speed in its light weight and the size of the tool, though. It's more comfortable to use and that's just fine for the time it takes to get the job done. If you have both, well then that's even better.
Your divider's shape between the the intake ports is not good.
knife edge shape create a lift in the air flow.
you should have a stock shape but reduced in thickness and smoothed.
Just look at the shape of big plane fuselage or simply a whale.
even the concorde have smooth edges on the front of the wings and nose.
Look at the work of kucheman and weber for example.
it gives good ideas.
Jafro, how often in your carrier you have met a 4G.. sorry Proton engine head with cracks around combustion chamber? Does it happen quite often? I have litteraly yesterday finished a headgasket job (Ive sent a head for skim, valve lap and a COLD pressure test), but now I can see, a bit of whitish/greyish smoke from my exhaust. And Im confused now..
Just wanted to say thanks for posting all your video's and taking the time to make them.
I really enjoy your videos, jafro.
If you want almost the same intake and / or exhaust port, use some big ball bearing or shaped material to check the size and shape of the ports.
these videos are gold!! thank you!!!
Outstanding video. Rebuilding a dodge engine (home garage mechanic) and your tips are GREAT! thanks much
Not into 4cyl but the head is almost identical to a 4v Ford Modular v8. It's all these many small imperfections clean up that make an engine so much better.
was this issue only with 1g heads? or 2g aswell? i have an evo 3 and am kinda worried now :/
LOL
that's what I'm doing right now!
I was too tired to watch it late night.
If i was you i would clean up the two but enlarge one port only.
the other would keep max speed airflow for turbulences at low rpm and would be good for torque.
once full and out of breath the bigger port would take the work of big rpm flow and charge of you turbo engine.
it's what they do on the early tdi engines for max torque on a quite big powerband
Jafro,
In this video just explain porting your intake an exhaust. About 9:08 - 9:16 in the video you say not to worry about porting an or knive edging the dividers on your exhaust side of the head, but you just recently uploaded a video on the Hyundai head where you ported an polished the exhaust side of the Hyundai, an you defiantly knive edge the divider in the exhaust ports. Which is correct? Port the exhaust or not?
It's all about the difference between the 1g and 2g castings. The head shown here is a 2g head, and the shape of the bowls is already better than the 1g heads. The intake ports are about twice the size on the Hyundai than this 2g head, so opening up the exhaust ports has a more significant benefit on the Hyundai. The Hyundai has a 1g 1.6L head with significantly more restricted ports. The size of the exhaust flange ports are the same, but the port shape is different. I'll talk more about this in my next video where I have both heads for comparison. Knife edging helps when you can get away with it. But in either case, not a whole lot was removed from either this 2g head or the Hyundai head.
Interesting... Hey on a random side note. Whats your opinion on Tom's turbo upgrade video 1? he ports hes turbo? Will this improve performance of the turbo?
When you eliminate the steps, you improve the flow. Lining up the gasket and the port will do this. If you're thinking about just making the hole bigger, it doesn't really help much for the same principles as porting the exhaust runners larger. Air flows slower through a larger port. In front of the turbo this can actually hurt the spool time because it's in front of the exhaust wheel, so it's important not to go crazy here and punch a big hole through it. The right way to do it would be to measure manifold pressure to see what kind of a restriction it is. If that pressure is too high at high revs, then going bigger would help.
So just doing a simple port job on your turbo would improve spool time an also how much air is going in to the turbine? like just a gasket or manifold to turbo port? Have no back pressure in your exhaust can that hurt the turbo? or help it? Like for example bigger turbo larger exhaust? 3" or 4" exhaust?
What about throwing painter's tape on the seat? Are there fail-safes to avoid killing your valve job?
+Ryan Eaton Painters tape wont protect you from making mistakes. It's just not strong and impenetrable enough to protect you when you miss. I used it as a warning. It wasn't enough to stop me from screwing up. Perhaps a portion of that was me, but I felt like I was being careful. You've gotta spend an awful lot of time hovering over it, and everything goes a blur.
Very nice job my friend you did a great job editing the dialouge
You...Are a Sir!!! Thanks for sharing!!!!!
You said not to work on the combustion chamber side of the valve seat. What about un-shrouding the valves by rounding out that shoulder that is on the combustion chamber side of the valve seat, while avoiding the the mating surface of the valve. (I am referring to 14:27 in the video) The reason I ask is because I have been doing this, and then following up by polishing the combustion chamber, and will be measuring/equalizing the combustion chamber volume across the head, and this made me nervous
Dude, you're amazing. The info on your channel is excellent. Thank you!!
Thanx but it really takes skill & patients to do what you did to yours port and polish %100 inside and out. Well done
Great editing. I learned much. Subscribed
big fan of velocity and turbulences ?
the squish is your friend.
Work more on your bias effect it helps a lot.
you need two stroke engines porting books they give good ideas too.
What did you use to clean the valve seats?
Any power tools of any kind? I'm thinking of using my dremel with a brass wire wheel to remove any excess carbon and clean up the seats before i re-seat the valves. Brass wire wheel ok? or too agressive?
Hahhah.... It's actually the Cylinder Head 105 video, the one right before this one... where I do exactly what you describe. It worked great.
+Jafromobile
can i simply use normal 300 grit sandpaper to remove the cast aluminum roughness then use a 2000 grit sandpaper to smooth and then polish?
in the intake and exhaust ports by hand WITHOUT ANY POWER TOOLS?
+Jafromobile Nice video - straight to the point - you talk like "you're at home". Grtz
hi, i thought you are the one who can answer this question, high end cars like LEXUS, Accura, BMW, Benze etc have engines and TOyota, ford, honda have engines, is there a manufacturing quality difference in engines between hig end and lower end engines. in other words, does higher end egnines last long then lower end engines.. pls advise.
i done my head polishing my self came out very smooth !
Where do you find the long shaft bits
I realize this is 6 years down the road, but if you made a play list of these head work videos that would be awesome.
thank you jafro for another great vid
I dissagree with your opinion of opening the runner... Opening the runner will actually help slow air speed wich is a crucial part of helping the fuel hang on and making the turn around the short turn. Also depending on where you grind on the floor of the port it can actually pick up also
air tools are great and all..but I just used my HF electric die grinder...except I took a wall switch lamp dimmer and made a speed controller box ;)
1:15 that's "flash". They should have all that ground away at the factory. I figure since it is not something you would normally see, they just leave it on .
Polishing the exhaust may not make more power but the carbon doesnt stick as easily
Really good video! Learned lots of stuff
Very good video ! One objection, The intake divider should not be done sharp. Airfoils dont have a sharp leading edge...
When can i send you my HHR SS LNF Head to port ?
Another great video jafro!
@Jafromobile i watching your video and taking the tips, im about to do a port job in my peugeot 106 xsi head, do you know it or have any tip? thanks!
I am not familiar with that one, as they don't even exist here in the United States. I just read the specs, and polishing would be fine on the exhaust ports, but stop at 80 or 120 grit on the intake ports. Just clean up the casting and where it meets the machining. 95% of your gains will come from just doing that.
I also did an experimental port job on this channel. You've probably seen it. :P
@@Jafromobile Yes, i've already saw that, nonetheless, thanks for your time and words, your channel and vids are quite usefull.
planes, whales, birds,submarines,speed records cars, formula one aerodynamic appendices etc.....
intake scoops on mustang p51 design directly used in dragster hood scoop.
cooling diffusers etc etc......
the nose of your car......
Excellent video, well done.
awesome video great job !
subscribed. Great video!
shiny runners are a bad thing for intake valves but i think might work on a exhaust runner
Holy shit I'm gonna polish my heads! Looks great!
I used to have that Eclipse Hot wheel lol
google is full (for the most) of things quite right but not exact.
you will never see professionnal efficient ported heads pics on google.
you will see airflow results CFM YEAH!!!!! but it's not in the cfm all happen....
the is the bernoulli effect too.
bigger port =more pressure but less speed
smaller port=more speed but less pressure
You should invest in a zillawhip for your die grinder it really reduces fatigue when using one for prolonged periods of time.
Please somebody i have an important question if anybody can help ill be very glad guys
-IF I DO A 3angle valve job WILL THE VALVE SEAT KEEP THE ORIGINAL STD SIZE?
Yes. It will just recess them slightly. Slightly decreasing your seat pressure because it slightly increases the length of the spring on the other side of the valve when the valve is closed. Each time you do a valve job, it adds up. As long as you keep your spring pressure correct for the cams you're using and how you use them, you'll be fine. There's a video about spring pressure and install height. Cylinder Head 203
Thank you!, the question is just because i bought a set of supertech titanium valves before i wanted to do the 3-angle valve job and i was afraid that the valves wouldn't fit, but thanks im gonna make my head the 3angle job!
I've read that titanium valves require bronze seats. Is this true?
+Hugh O'Brien That clearance would seize the valve in the guide for air cooled .
+Hugh O'Brien I work on Harley heads and if you don't use proper clearance the stem seizes in the guide. The guides I use always have to be reamed to spec . There is never clearance out of the box.
Does it make sense on turbo'd engines, too ?
can valve seats cause compression lost?
This video has helped me so much, thanks for the info!
Great video mate!!
Man you do some good work.
Excelent video! Can't thank you enough!!
ur sohc has the exhust and intake over each cylinder and the sohc head is only made to fit 1 cam so if u want to do it properly ud have to make ur own cam and head or if ur lucky the block is based on a sumlar design and u can swap out
nissians and holden have this in rb seiries engine dont know witch
if u want to do it the dicky way ull have to make a bearing holder that works on ur existing head cut ur exust and intake parts so there seperate put spockets on it and make a chain drive system
Go on Amazon and search for "Pit Pro PT2440 Heavy Duty Extended Die Grinder"
This is simply the best pneumatic die grinder I've ever used for porting. Air flow consumption is pretty good and it gets in far without needing long-shank bits that can bend or torque their way out of the collet. It's also easier to manipulate when the hand that guides the bit doesn't also have to squeeze the regulator lever.
good video
polish exhouse for reduce,s heat to the head (and reduce hanging carbon)
and tool finish intake port for superior feul to air atomization
you are handy ,a flowbench made with vacume cleaners and a (bosch) car airflow sensor
can be used to measure flow treu the ports (ducati flowbench v1, on youtube)
succes with your project
great work man.