I struggled with this dilemma as well. At the moment I’m mainly a binder collector and focus on making really cool pages. But if I’m looking through my cards and notice a card is Gem Mint, then I have no problem grading it and increasing the value and getting a cool piece I can display on a shelf
There are certainly a lot of valuable cards in my collection that I would love to get graded. But I'm too nervous to even try, I wouldn't want to risk my cards being damaged or lost in the mail. It's a huge gamble, but it's definitely a big reward when everything goes your way. So for now, I'd rather just keep my cards in a binder, and my more personal favorite cards displayed in those cheap magnetic slabs.
1. A penny sleeve a top loader and a vault x binder will protect cards just fine. 2. Me buying a pack from a trusted store is enough authentication for me. 3. There is nothing more valuable than pulling cards yourself and having that memory to keep as well. Those are my reason to why grading does not interest me, oh and I have seen again and again people cracking open psa 9’s even 8’s to resubmit and come back as a 10 🤣
I usually just put my favorite cards in one touch holders. I'd love to send some off for grading, but I don't trust the mail. Odds are they'd lose my stuff when I really dont want them to lol
Depends really. If the card is one of the better pulls from a set and condition could honestly be a 10, then sure grade it. If you really like the card and dont really care about the grade, you just want it safely in a case then sure grade it. Buying online can be super risky so I like to buy graded cards online because you pretty much know what condition you getting that way. But grading every 2nd card hoping to solely make money off it is unnecasary. I love having NM/M cards ungraded.
Ya same here, I dont care to grade my personal collection.😅 If you want to protect your cards just buy ultrapro one touch cases (that's what I do). I haven't been collecting pokemon cards for long but I just bought my first graded card which was an 8 purely for the condition. And yes it was a vintage card. If you were to hold up an 8 next to a 10 most people won't be able to tell the difference, and yet there's a huge price difference. So ya don't really care for grading 😅
@@NexisAlexis I agree, I usually buy 8's or higher because you pretty much guarenteed a NM card. If I can get a graded card for the same price as a raw NM card then will def get the graded.
I love the video in explaining this. For me I don’t really have an interest in grading cards. I love my collection because it my choices on what I like and enjoy. I don’t value my cards on the monetary value but the choice value.
Got my first PSA return a few weeks ago! Got six 10s and a seven vintage holo 9s! Just sent my second submission! They look so good in the graded case and I made a few hundred bucks!
Great video as always Jake! I guess my question/argument would be why not collect or keep PSA/CGC 9's in a collection? They could meet the same criteria you stated here. And depending, easier/quicker to sell or collect in a wider market as a 9 verse a 10 due to affordability in a budget.
@TwicebakedJake that makes sense, maybe I'm a cheap collector in the hobby lol. I'd feel better spending $1-200 for multiple PSA 9 Yu-nagaba cards than one Umbreon and having to save while watching prices go up or down.
While I agree that it's a shame to confine cards you'd like to look at to a binder for years, is there a risk that having even a graded card out on display could see the colours fade over time? Would love to know the answer to this!
As much as id love too ship out my cards for grading the only issue i have is the chances of my items getting lost in the mail. I've heard many issues where people lost their expensive cards by mail. Thought of that would depressed me
This is why you itemize and declare the value of your items when you purchase your shipping label. You pay a fee based on the declared value. If the shipping service is at fault for losing or damaging your package, they will pay out the declared / insured value.
i graded a few modern cards with becket all of them came back with 9.5 which with fees paid+card prices i was able to increase the value but not by too much though.
I've decided to get my kids Pokemon collection graded if the value has been over $25 raw and I think it will grade a 10. Its more or protection of the card than anything else.
@TwicebakedJake how do you figure out English promos for grading? Essentially all of them seem to have non-round corners. Is this factor in a PSA grade? Even PSA 10 copies I've seen online don't have round corners, but sending in my copies feels like a bigger gamble than normally sending a card.
Question: I have two umbreon Vmax alts I’ve pulled that I wanna grade but the centreing is for sure off…. Everything else is mint, corners, surface, edges so is it still possible to get a PSA10?
Its a numbers game in the uk most 'good' cards (not a common, holo, v) even in a 9 will sell for 25-30. Therefore if you dont get a 10 your making £10-£15 minus fees and shipping so more like £5-£10. However do that a 100 times and its still not bad. Equally if you send 100 and even 50 come back as a 10 you are truly quids in
I’ll answer this question without even watching the video: it depends. 98% of all Pokémon cards aren’t truly valuable, but many are absolutely collectible. Slabbed cards will always sell better than unslabbed cards, so if it’s collectible…I will typically slab it with CGC. If it’s rare…I will slab it with PSA. Simple as that.
Get them graded, keep them raw, put in binders, keep in top loaders, it’s all up to each collector and their is no wrong way to collect. Collect how you want and respect how others collect.
Gotta be careful displaying cards even when graded in solid plastic holder. They can still get sun damaged/faded if they are ever in sunlight, even with reflections of sunlight over time.
This is one of my fav videos of the year. Thank you! Can you send just a few cards here n there? I thought the minimum was 20 at a time which is why i have not used my PSA membership yet…
Grading is subjective, even within the professional grading services, so some days the exact same card could get graded an 8 or 9, other days by a different grader it gets a 10. Usually it is based on severity though, if it is noticeable to you then it is probably noticeable to the grader (and would likely get lower grade).
Jake just said grade modern cards that can grade a 10 but dont grade vintage cards... make sure u guys add to the population report of modern cards, 10,000 graded copies of a single card are not enough.
I could not disagree more with this and you also contradicted yourself in this video. You are rambling. Talking about haunter being 8-10 and you would grade no matter what and then saying you would only grade modern card which are likely going to get a 10.
My top 3 reasons are quite different: 1 - I like having my favourite cards in graded cases for display purposes. 2 - To increase the value 3 - Easier to sell In general look at the value of your card raw vs graded and see if the cost is justified. The more valuable the card the more the cost of grading is likely worth it. Pretty much any card that gets a 10 is worth grading. I wouldn't separate modern vs vintage.@@TwicebakedJake
This is going to be a massive "It depends". If it's a super modern card, most likely if you shop you can find one that is in good "gradable" condition on the market....But if your looking for any vintage stuff, good luck finding a psa 9 ( forget 10 ) on the market. If someone pulls a base set charizard and thinks it's a 10, they are going to grade.
This was a helpful video! Could you please do a video on how to identify different cards as a newbie? What do the different cards mean? (holo, reverse holo, masterball ect). On that note, adding in what are things to look at for value and what that means (whitening, centering ect). This would be a very helpful video for a newbie like myself.
You should grade your cards for as long as stupid people keep paying that premium for no reason. Grading a vintage card where quality is rarer makes sense. Grading the latest set . . . Again, keep doing it until people value their money
Everyone grades the big expensive modern or vintage cards, but what most people don’t know is, those cards aren’t going to be worth anything in ten years because that’s what everyone is grading. What you want to grade is the cards that nobody else is grading: aka modern common cards of unpopular pokemon. For example, i sent a bunch of Obsidian Flames Tympole cards to PSA and got back some perfect 10’s. Those are really the cards that will sell for a big profit in ten years, because they’re super low pop. In fact, I probably have the only ones ever graded!
@@PokeBeardTCG No, I am right about all of it. Low pop equals more money, basically. If you think about it, it makes sense! Scarcity drives demand, so the thing that is the most scarce will be the most expensive.
@BT-su1yf lol you have to be joking.. If you grade a bunch of cheap cards that no one else grades does not mean they will be worth alot. Do you wanna know why?? CUZ THEY'RE CHEAP CARDS THAT ANYONE CAN GET, BUT NO ONE WANTS. Why would someone spend $100 on a psa 10 random holo cards with a low pop, when if they really wanted it. They could buy a copy for like 10 cents and grade it themselves lol. You keep saying scarcity drives demand but they will always be a common card raw. If the card itself is extremely cheap and easy to get raw it will NEVER BE WORTH ALOT GRADED lol. Low population means nothing if the card is the most common card in the world. You 100% wasted your money. Especially cuz you said only some got back perfect 10s.
@@PokeBeardTCG no, you’re not understanding the whole concept of the PSA population report… they keep track of how many cards have been graded and what grades they’ve given out, and the lower the population is, the more valuable the card is! End of story. So because there are NO common modern cards graded, any of those cards will be the only ones in the world that are graded. And as an added bonus, PSA gives better grades to cards with a lower pop report. People haven’t realized that yet, which is why nobody sends their commons to get graded. It’s a huge untapped market, and I’ve already sent hundreds of common cards for grading, so I’m well ahead of the curve. I haven’t sold any yet, but I have multiple listings on Ebay of my PSA 10 commons that I’ll eventually sell for like $500 or more a piece.
@BT-su1yf just think. That extremely low pop 1st ed base weedle and caterpie, with the lowest amount of cards ever printed. with extremely low pop is still only worth like $200 in a psa 10. And that's over 25 years old lol
I have graded a few cards but I find myself enjoying my collection more when they are in a binder
Same here they feel more part of the collection
I struggled with this dilemma as well. At the moment I’m mainly a binder collector and focus on making really cool pages. But if I’m looking through my cards and notice a card is Gem Mint, then I have no problem grading it and increasing the value and getting a cool piece I can display on a shelf
Same here TBH
There is a binder for graded cards. Only con is u can't put too much.
@michaeltamayo6239 imagine a binder of like 360 graded cards, would weigh a tonne and be massive 😂
I received a PSA, 5 on what I thought was a flawless Japanese card from the southern islands set. Cracked the case, sent it again and got a 9…
That's crazy. So psa is just a game of chance
There are certainly a lot of valuable cards in my collection that I would love to get graded. But I'm too nervous to even try, I wouldn't want to risk my cards being damaged or lost in the mail. It's a huge gamble, but it's definitely a big reward when everything goes your way. So for now, I'd rather just keep my cards in a binder, and my more personal favorite cards displayed in those cheap magnetic slabs.
go to lcs that has partnerships. less pressure
1. A penny sleeve a top loader and a vault x binder will protect cards just fine.
2. Me buying a pack from a trusted store is enough authentication for me.
3. There is nothing more valuable than pulling cards yourself and having that memory to keep as well.
Those are my reason to why grading does not interest me, oh and I have seen again and again people cracking open psa 9’s even 8’s to resubmit and come back as a 10 🤣
I found a Gold Star Gyarados in my cupboard from back when i pulled it in 2006, only card ive got graded so far came back a psa 8
I like having my stuff in a binder, selling extra bulk, and grading what i think will get a 10 and be more valuable
I usually just put my favorite cards in one touch holders. I'd love to send some off for grading, but I don't trust the mail. Odds are they'd lose my stuff when I really dont want them to lol
Depends really. If the card is one of the better pulls from a set and condition could honestly be a 10, then sure grade it. If you really like the card and dont really care about the grade, you just want it safely in a case then sure grade it. Buying online can be super risky so I like to buy graded cards online because you pretty much know what condition you getting that way. But grading every 2nd card hoping to solely make money off it is unnecasary. I love having NM/M cards ungraded.
Ya same here, I dont care to grade my personal collection.😅 If you want to protect your cards just buy ultrapro one touch cases (that's what I do). I haven't been collecting pokemon cards for long but I just bought my first graded card which was an 8 purely for the condition. And yes it was a vintage card. If you were to hold up an 8 next to a 10 most people won't be able to tell the difference, and yet there's a huge price difference. So ya don't really care for grading 😅
@@NexisAlexis I agree, I usually buy 8's or higher because you pretty much guarenteed a NM card. If I can get a graded card for the same price as a raw NM card then will def get the graded.
If you want a PSA 10. Just buy it! Be sure to stay aware of the market and purchase at the right moment.
I love the video in explaining this. For me I don’t really have an interest in grading cards. I love my collection because it my choices on what I like and enjoy. I don’t value my cards on the monetary value but the choice value.
What a haul, I’m still a binder boy though
Got my first PSA return a few weeks ago! Got six 10s and a seven vintage holo 9s! Just sent my second submission! They look so good in the graded case and I made a few hundred bucks!
How long did it take for them to get graded and what’s the minimum you have to spend?
Literally can’t wait for the next ones!
I know this is about what you should get graded, but I've been picking up Japanese 151 cards graded by CGC for pretty cheap. Like CGC 10s for $25.
I sent away my moonbreon and Latias latios gx alt last night fingers crossed.
Any advice on what I should do with a gold star Torchic that I believe is in near mint condition? Grade it? And who can I trust?
What’s the minimum non-graded value of a card that you’d recommend grading?
For me it's $20 - $30. For most people the threshold can be $100
Curious if sealed promos like the Pikachu with Grey Felt Hat would be worth grading?
Even displaying cards in a case can have its cons. Overtime even light can damage your cards by fading them out.
how to tell which cards will increase in value when graded?
Don’t see myself grading modern cards unless it’s my personal favorite Pokémon, like you with pikachu
Great video as always Jake!
I guess my question/argument would be why not collect or keep PSA/CGC 9's in a collection?
They could meet the same criteria you stated here. And depending, easier/quicker to sell or collect in a wider market as a 9 verse a 10 due to affordability in a budget.
From my experience 9s are actually super hard to sell compared to 10s. Most collectors want perfection.
@TwicebakedJake that makes sense, maybe I'm a cheap collector in the hobby lol. I'd feel better spending $1-200 for multiple PSA 9 Yu-nagaba cards than one Umbreon and having to save while watching prices go up or down.
While I agree that it's a shame to confine cards you'd like to look at to a binder for years, is there a risk that having even a graded card out on display could see the colours fade over time? Would love to know the answer to this!
I just bought a sequential full set of the Yu Nagaba eevelutions. Can't wait to add them to my lonely Nagaba Pikachu.
They're all psa 10 too!
As much as id love too ship out my cards for grading the only issue i have is the chances of my items getting lost in the mail. I've heard many issues where people lost their expensive cards by mail. Thought of that would depressed me
This is why you itemize and declare the value of your items when you purchase your shipping label. You pay a fee based on the declared value. If the shipping service is at fault for losing or damaging your package, they will pay out the declared / insured value.
What do you keep your top loaded or card saver ready to grade cards in finding proper storage can be difficult
Do you think the vintage card market is bad even for first editions?
i graded a few modern cards with becket all of them came back with 9.5 which with fees paid+card prices i was able to increase the value but not by too much though.
How do you find out about, and get, Japanese promos?
I've decided to get my kids Pokemon collection graded if the value has been over $25 raw and I think it will grade a 10. Its more or protection of the card than anything else.
@TwicebakedJake how do you figure out English promos for grading? Essentially all of them seem to have non-round corners. Is this factor in a PSA grade? Even PSA 10 copies I've seen online don't have round corners, but sending in my copies feels like a bigger gamble than normally sending a card.
Question: I have two umbreon Vmax alts I’ve pulled that I wanna grade but the centreing is for sure off…. Everything else is mint, corners, surface, edges so is it still possible to get a PSA10?
I only grade cards that hold the most sentimental value or the strongest/unique cards. ❤
I have some cards I want graded. Found a LCS that does group submissions, so I will be joining that.
any reason you use semi rigids instead of top loaders?
Jake, please do a video on the best English exclusive Pokémon cards (in your opinion)
Make sure that card is centered. If not, quickest way to get anything but a 10.
Hey I would like to know, what would you guess the value would be for the charizard for obsidian flames in this video before sending it to psa?
If you are talking English one, it’s pretty awful. It’s like darkness ablaze all over again.
Its a numbers game in the uk most 'good' cards (not a common, holo, v) even in a 9 will sell for 25-30. Therefore if you dont get a 10 your making £10-£15 minus fees and shipping so more like £5-£10. However do that a 100 times and its still not bad. Equally if you send 100 and even 50 come back as a 10 you are truly quids in
Most subtle flex I've ever seen.
Nice but your vintage vaporeon is off center, top heavy😊
I’ll answer this question without even watching the video: it depends. 98% of all Pokémon cards aren’t truly valuable, but many are absolutely collectible. Slabbed cards will always sell better than unslabbed cards, so if it’s collectible…I will typically slab it with CGC. If it’s rare…I will slab it with PSA. Simple as that.
print lines are my enemy too
10:32 yo magic trick 😁😂
Get them graded, keep them raw, put in binders, keep in top loaders, it’s all up to each collector and their is no wrong way to collect. Collect how you want and respect how others collect.
very important comment! sometimes people forget that it's supposed to be fun :)
I disagree about the binders. Being able to flip through a 100% completed set of cards is so satisfying.
Gotta be careful displaying cards even when graded in solid plastic holder. They can still get sun damaged/faded if they are ever in sunlight, even with reflections of sunlight over time.
great video!
I just sent out 149 cards to CGC🎉 I can't wait to get that stack back!!
How much per card?
9.60
Thanks I appreciate it!
Wow you spent $1500 to get cards graded, wish I had money like that to spare, super jealous
Happy cgc is under $10 on grading bulk!!
More reasons to grade:
4. Complete a graded collection.
5. Resell for profit
I just dont see myself paying 10-25$ to get a card graded
I coul get more products with that money
Very useful and great content!
This is one of my fav videos of the year. Thank you! Can you send just a few cards here n there? I thought the minimum was 20 at a time which is why i have not used my PSA membership yet…
20 is for their bulk and cheapest pricing. You can send fewer but the cost becomes very steep
Graded singles = decent display
Sealed boxes=hard to keep sealed
Master sets = deep into the hobby
Modern cards = way overpriced
What’s the least amount of cards you send in? Question is for anyone to answer.
And welcome to the haaaaabby!
Guys if my card print is slightly slanted can it still get a 10?
Grading is subjective, even within the professional grading services, so some days the exact same card could get graded an 8 or 9, other days by a different grader it gets a 10. Usually it is based on severity though, if it is noticeable to you then it is probably noticeable to the grader (and would likely get lower grade).
Jake just said grade modern cards that can grade a 10 but dont grade vintage cards... make sure u guys add to the population report of modern cards, 10,000 graded copies of a single card are not enough.
Second
Ayoooo
I could not disagree more with this and you also contradicted yourself in this video. You are rambling. Talking about haunter being 8-10 and you would grade no matter what and then saying you would only grade modern card which are likely going to get a 10.
I'm okay with getting a PSA 8. But I want people to be aware that anything less than a PSA 10 for modern is a net loss.
Grade your waifu.
I thought this was one of your worst information videos Jake. So much personal opinion. I disagreed with half of it.
That's fair!
My top 3 reasons are quite different:
1 - I like having my favourite cards in graded cases for display purposes.
2 - To increase the value
3 - Easier to sell
In general look at the value of your card raw vs graded and see if the cost is justified. The more valuable the card the more the cost of grading is likely worth it. Pretty much any card that gets a 10 is worth grading.
I wouldn't separate modern vs vintage.@@TwicebakedJake
If the collector isn''t knowledgeable enough to know if their card is authentic, then they probably aren't ready for grading@@TwicebakedJake
If it's not centred well and has any whitening dont bother
ok I was reading its not a good idea to buy graded cards
It's going to be up to you. I prefer grading my own 10s rather than buying them if I can
This is going to be a massive "It depends". If it's a super modern card, most likely if you shop you can find one that is in good "gradable" condition on the market....But if your looking for any vintage stuff, good luck finding a psa 9 ( forget 10 ) on the market. If someone pulls a base set charizard and thinks it's a 10, they are going to grade.
First
Your UA-cam account will be closed pre maturely on September 1st 2023
This was a helpful video! Could you please do a video on how to identify different cards as a newbie? What do the different cards mean? (holo, reverse holo, masterball ect). On that note, adding in what are things to look at for value and what that means (whitening, centering ect). This would be a very helpful video for a newbie like myself.
You should grade your cards for as long as stupid people keep paying that premium for no reason. Grading a vintage card where quality is rarer makes sense. Grading the latest set . . . Again, keep doing it until people value their money
Stop the cap. The number one reason is to make money.
Everyone grades the big expensive modern or vintage cards, but what most people don’t know is, those cards aren’t going to be worth anything in ten years because that’s what everyone is grading. What you want to grade is the cards that nobody else is grading: aka modern common cards of unpopular pokemon. For example, i sent a bunch of Obsidian Flames Tympole cards to PSA and got back some perfect 10’s. Those are really the cards that will sell for a big profit in ten years, because they’re super low pop. In fact, I probably have the only ones ever graded!
Literally everything you said is incorrect lol.
@@PokeBeardTCG No, I am right about all of it. Low pop equals more money, basically. If you think about it, it makes sense! Scarcity drives demand, so the thing that is the most scarce will be the most expensive.
@BT-su1yf lol you have to be joking.. If you grade a bunch of cheap cards that no one else grades does not mean they will be worth alot. Do you wanna know why?? CUZ THEY'RE CHEAP CARDS THAT ANYONE CAN GET, BUT NO ONE WANTS. Why would someone spend $100 on a psa 10 random holo cards with a low pop, when if they really wanted it. They could buy a copy for like 10 cents and grade it themselves lol. You keep saying scarcity drives demand but they will always be a common card raw. If the card itself is extremely cheap and easy to get raw it will NEVER BE WORTH ALOT GRADED lol. Low population means nothing if the card is the most common card in the world. You 100% wasted your money. Especially cuz you said only some got back perfect 10s.
@@PokeBeardTCG no, you’re not understanding the whole concept of the PSA population report… they keep track of how many cards have been graded and what grades they’ve given out, and the lower the population is, the more valuable the card is! End of story. So because there are NO common modern cards graded, any of those cards will be the only ones in the world that are graded. And as an added bonus, PSA gives better grades to cards with a lower pop report. People haven’t realized that yet, which is why nobody sends their commons to get graded. It’s a huge untapped market, and I’ve already sent hundreds of common cards for grading, so I’m well ahead of the curve. I haven’t sold any yet, but I have multiple listings on Ebay of my PSA 10 commons that I’ll eventually sell for like $500 or more a piece.
@BT-su1yf just think. That extremely low pop 1st ed base weedle and caterpie, with the lowest amount of cards ever printed. with extremely low pop is still only worth like $200 in a psa 10. And that's over 25 years old lol
Nice vid man learned a lot of stuff 🫡