The only thing missing from these videos is the incredible smells of the various woods when being cut, sanded and worked with. Thanks for documenting all your hard work.
May I suggest that you check out their merchandise shop and purchase a sample set of their wood offcuts so you can check the aromas and textures as you watch the vids......
So I have been an avid viewer since the first lead pour... so to see them make it this far and get a 3 minute feature on the Sunday Today show last week is awesome...
Making the keel was probably my favourite . That molten lead was scary scary stuff and I was wondering when it was all going to go badly wrong and make some suits of armour out of the guys ! But it got done . I love Tally Ho as well , but their first lead pouring attempt failed ... no lead suits thank goodness . I dont watch Telly anymore ! That coach housing looks pretty too . Hope it can hold the weight of the tender , sure it will though because everything is thought through and though.
Hi Steve, I believe the added weight is to dampen "rudder flutter". For this reason it's also why your "trailing edge" should be symmetrical and finished with a square edge and NOT rounded over. Cheers, Safe travels, see you out here.
There is something magical about watching a skilled worker using a chisel. Your work skills is a inspiration to us all Steve. Thank you for brightening upp our week again
Love the rudder ballast being inset rather than just attached to the edge. Smart move in my thoughts as well. Great job Steve. Fairing should include a smooth and polish on that bronze edge beautifully. Can hardly wait. Coming right along.
I’m sure he’s used it numerous times but today was the first instance I noticed Steve using a Yankee screwdriver and what memories it brought back. My dad was a carpenter from the mid 1950s thru the late 1970s. I was routinely on a job site with him on weekends, no school days or in his shop in the evening while he built cabinets. If I saw him once, I saw him a 1000 times setting slotted wood screws with his well worn, Yankee Screwdriver. I never became proficient using it like he was……thanks for creating the flood of wonderful memories.
Yea i was thinking the same thing about the weight on the rudder toward the bottom. It's probably there to naturally bring it back to center since the rudder is at an angle. Its like a stabilizer and counter weight at the same time. The man was brilliant. Under sail it will also help steering and to re-center the rudder. I don't think I would have even thought of doing that.
That's kinda what I'm thinking too. Acts a bit like caster on a car, or more likely a motorcycle. Keeps the rudder centered when not actively trying to steer.
I wonder if this was 'invented' accidentally .... like someone had to do an angled rudder to fit their new double ender hull design, and it sucked because the boat couldn't hold its course because the rudder always wanted to float up to one side or the other - so when they weighted it(to pull it down and thus unexpectedly straight back) they then discovered that their once squirrelly boat now would auto correct hands free dead ahead - and it became a feature instead of a problem, which a vertical rudder could have neither of
@@BenjaminT.Minkler like a trim tab…. The 25 pounds might be the weight that works best to help hold it at a specific angle when the boat is healed over
I was thinking it was there both for the reason you stated, to overcome the buoyancy of the wood, but also to counterbalance the tiller and help to return it to center when maneuvering at low speed.
Anne & Ben, the sound is most excellent on this. I’m watching on my phone, listening with ear buds. When Steve was working on the rudder, I kept hearing noise coming from the other room. It was on video! Y’all do an outstanding job producing these episodes. Huzzah!
17:30 Weather helm, the tendency for the boat to turn into the wind, is why the lead is there. Weather helm is desirable (achieved by proper sail trim) for sailing because it means that your keel-rudder combination is producing hydrodynamic lift to windward. As the boat heels over the pressure on the rudder to counter this weather helm would grow proportionally to the heel. The lead is there to compensate for this and adds a steering assist by drawing the rudder to leeward; or downwards while heeled. This will reduce the force required to hold the tiller in the necessary position to produce the desired hydrodynamic lift. Thanks for another great video.
As we say in the description, it’s taken almost all of the skills needed to build the rest of the boat!
2 роки тому+2
@@AcornToArabella Talking about the rudder, when you mentioned the wight I assumed it must serve a similar purpose as counter wight on control surfaces on an airplane to keep them level so you dont have to fight them staying level. The rudder seems to be tilted backwards so the wight would center it if the rudder now is heavier then the water it displaces. Due to the rudders angle any movement left or right (yea not marine terms but you get it XD) would elevate the wight a bit, gravity would want to pull it down aka center the rudder. If you for some reason tilted the rudder forward instead it would probably prefer to go either all left or all right and not stay centered. Its like when you where a kid and had something that could rotate around a stick but was heavier on one side that stuck out, tilting it back and forth would rotate that thing to what ever direction allowed it to point down. Also you car should self center if you let go of the wheel due to how the front suspension is set up so I suspect this is the same thing, you want to go strait in your boat and not go in circles when ever your not paying 100% attention to the wheel so to speak. Anyways my theory but it might not be the correct reason or it could be one of two, as you sad it wanting to float up is probably not desirable ether. Good luck with the boat!
Excellent craftsmanship! Regarding the weight on the rudder my explanation is, when the boat is heeled over the lead weight at the edge of the rudder will pull down and therefore counteract weather helm. The boat will feel better on the rudder and it will be easier to steer.
@@AcornToArabella I have been watching from Tasmania on and off since the keel pour. Perhaps one day you will get to the Australian Wooden Boat festival !! It would be amazing to see the Arabella in person.
28 minutes goes by in a flash and before I know it I am left waiting for another week for the next glimpse at your progress. I guess I am just an Arabella junkie. Thank you for sharing your journey with us.
I’d sure love to hear the narration that Steve added early on in the build. As an example, you did all that work to fit the hinge, but no description. Thanks!
Love the adze work! It looks like it would be tough on the back though. Steve is obviously skilled with the adze- leaving a very even and pretty smooth cut! I’m afraid I’d leave it a mess!
What amazes me most is how you figure out beforehand the best method to translate Aktin's plan measurements on paper to the actual rudder's wood production WITHOUT having to do it completely all over again, like most of us). Just awesome!
1. "Steve's Rudderworks" t-shirt drop please. 2. To the editor. Time-lapse vid with Normal rate tool audio is OUTSTANDING. Such a pleasing effect! 3. Just carry on ALL! Love it! ALL OF IT!
The gust of wind before the adze was epic. Like the wind did you a favor and got out of the way. Lol. Great job, it will look like a boat more when the rudder goes on. Until Next Friday, 🫡
Pure ASMR watching Steve carve the slots in rudder for he hinge , great work Steve. You should have the Entire team and even you Anne sign some of the bigger chips from Steves Adze work on the rudder and have them encased in Clear resin and sell them.
Concerning the lead in the rudder: The wooden rudder will of course float and with a perfectly vertical turning axis that won't matter because the bronze fixtures will keep it there and turning it to the left or right won't change anything. However if you're not at 90° but the rudder is more or less hanging down from it's fixtures like in the picture, rotating the rudder around those means it's further up. So let's say you turn the rudder 20° to the left, the rudder is a bit closer to the surface than it was when you were steering straight. Now buoyancy will push for the rudder to be even farther up, which means it will push the rudder further to the left until it hits something and can't move further. The most stable position for a rudder like that is with the anchor points underneath it (which of course doesn't work, because there's a boat in the way), unless there's something heavy attached, that keeps it from floating up. So you should really look into how much lead you need because if you use to little, the rudder will move on it's own. You can try this with a small wooden board in your bath tube. Just hold it at two points along one edge and try to push the board into the water. If the edge you're holding on to is 90° to the water surface, the board will just push up but turning it won't make a difference. If you hold it an angle like we see for Arabella, it will push to either side (unless you can hold it perfectly vertical).
Arabella is certainly being built to last, I love that. 100 years from now the then owner will have a rich resource in these detailed video "documents." That rudder is coming along nicely - Forward!
Part of the joy of watching A2A, is watching Steve & co. muddle through and pick up new skills, like pouring lead. Another part is the things he does that are just superlative, the adze and chain saw work being the top of that list.
I've never used an adz, but you make it look so easy. I couldn't imagine wielding such a tool on something I had spent so much time to initially put together. I have always enjoyed watching the skill with which you work.
The weight in the rudder is for self-centering. The transom is angled so any rudder deflection causes the weight to be lifted so it’ll tend to want to hang straight.
Jim 922 from Arkansas, I have been watching from the beginning. Every week I am just in awe with the progress on the project. Something new every week and Steve is always up to the challenge. I Love this episode.ps and a hardy hello to all the crew working behind the scenes in the boat house.
I pride myself on being a good woodworker but you people are awesome. I have watched from close to the beginning and find inspiration in most every video. Keep up the great work. There will be great joy and sadness when this project is over. Thank you !!!
i really hope steve ENJOYS sailing. being stuck on a small boat in the ocean is way different than being a woodworker on a boat. all the skills of the last 4yrs (and there are many) and suddenly he will stop to sail
Another too quickly ended video! Wonderful cam work, great music and great work with the adze! Next week's edition can't come too soon! Stay well and stay safe!
Extremely satisfying episode. Steve you are a genius. Camera work was expectational. Can you comment on when you are going to take some sailing lessons?
This rudder is amazing. I especially liked seeing your tapered circular saw jig. I don't know where I can use it, but I will think on it and design something I can taper like that. Thanks for sharing. Sweet spot on the Today program.
Hi Steve, I suppose the lead is to counteract the buoyancy of the rudder to keep the boat steering easier on a very light wind. As the center of buoyancy is lower then the rudder hanging axis the buoyancy will turn the rudder away from the neutral position to a side. So the lead will keep the rudder in amidship position. Best wishes!
In my opinion this weight helps for self steering. I owe a sailing model which steers (due to the same weight on the lower end of the rudder) by it self. The ideal is , in the model , when the boat is heeling over and tends to steer towards the wind the rudder is falling to lee and by so keeping the vessel on course. …. On the model, made from old drawings, this really works. It keeps it course without a remote control on the rudder.
@@marcoheijboer7003 This is very interesting what you say but I am afraid the added weight is not enough to steer the boat but just good to make the rudder neutral. When the boat heels much (on gusts for instance) the straightning moment is so great so to keep the boat on course you have to apply a great force on the rudder. This is dozens of kilos (on rudder not on tiler). Under the water everything is getting lighter so to steer the boat the way you say it would require double weight. So my point is the influence of the rudder weight is a tiny bit compare to the forces that are in place and that keeps the boat balanced. So the main force that pulls the boat away from the wind comes form the balanced sails when the center of the sails forces is upfront the center of the boat mass. And this is the great force.
Really enjoyed both the content and the style/format of this video. Seeing the lathe in use brought back memories of when you were collecting all of those machines. Good times!
Steve - Old guy tip: When you have a 5 gallon pail with a bung you can lay the pail on its side with the bung up, and then roll the pail on the bench to begin the pour. Way easier than tipping it to pour.
I'm always amazed that a tool like your adz can be used in such a precise method, and also memorable was seeing lead cut with a chainsaw ! Really loved this video !
I was thinking how many fine details would make the rudder build so "hard." Once I remembered how a whole boat of "fine" details have been accomplished, it's seemed rather simple....well to watch anyway!! Great job. DD
Charles Emerson Winchester III from M*A*S*H expressed my sentiments exactly, “Autumn in New England, can there be anything be more sublime and beautiful?”
funny how i have no interests in boats or sailing but still enjoying these videos as i did at the start, loving the craftsmanship and the technicalities that go into the designs that have been fine tuned over many hundreds of years, adding the weight onto the rudder makes perfect sense in the same way that moving surfaces on aircraft have trim tabs to stabilise during flight, that weight will assist in steering and prevent the rudder from waggling like a loose flipper i guess
I may have missed 5 or 6 episodes of your fantastic build. its looks really fantastic . one question ive had since the hull was completed is why have you chosen a tiller verses a wheel. it sees to me that it would take more effort with the tiller.. just a thought..i WISH i could be there for the launch.. an Excalibur chanell to be sure!!
Looking at the geometry on the plans there could be a self centering component with the lead also a counterbalance when healed over making it lighter or more manageable on the tiller. Interesting design, and probably tunable to the pilots preference.
@Acorn To Arabella You are right. The lead increases the moment of inertia of the rudder and thereby reduce the change of angular speed of the rudder, mostly by waves would be my guess. Putting the mass further out from the pivot of the rudder increases this effect for the same mass.
Since you have a wooden rudder, which floats and your hinge is tilted, the rudder wants to float up. It will either turn to SB or to PS as a result of this. Now it is balanced and will stay put unless you pull the helm. If you put more lead in it will try to remain centred and the helm will be heavy at larger angles.
It’ll be interesting to see how it feels… I’ve not sailed a boat that has a weighted rudder, and most likely with just 25 lbs, the thing will be neutrally buoyant rather than prone to sink. It’ll be interesting for sure. -Anne
@@AcornToArabella Realise the 25lbs was calculated by Atkins based on volume of the rudder en the specific weight of the wood. By using heavier wood you need less lead and when using lighter wood more lead. More taper less volume of wood, so less lead and so on.
The only thing missing from these videos is the incredible smells of the various woods when being cut, sanded and worked with. Thanks for documenting all your hard work.
May I suggest that you check out their merchandise shop and purchase a sample set of their wood offcuts so you can check the aromas and textures as you watch the vids......
The Gem Collection might be of interest. Lil nuggets of every wood in Arabella.
@@AcornToArabella I highly recommend them!
Mine arrived as "dental implants" which reduced my tax and duty payment significantly 🇻🇨
I recommend smelly vision.
@@markwoodger2 Smellervision!😂
Saw you on the Today show. The world is watching your great progress.
Is it available on youtube/online?
@@volundrfrey896 Yes: ua-cam.com/video/umb5_mna07o/v-deo.html
@@volundrfrey896 ua-cam.com/video/umb5_mna07o/v-deo.html
@@volundrfrey896 I went to The Today Show website, clicked on Sunday Today and was able to play the interview from there.
They have already been kind of famous before the Today show. Now they are even becoming celebrities? 😁 ;-)
Best regards, luck and health.
So I have been an avid viewer since the first lead pour... so to see them make it this far and get a 3 minute feature on the Sunday Today show last week is awesome...
Making the keel was probably my favourite . That molten lead was scary scary stuff and I was wondering when it was all going to go badly wrong and make some suits of armour out of the guys ! But it got done . I love Tally Ho as well , but their first lead pouring attempt failed ... no lead suits thank goodness . I dont watch Telly anymore ! That coach housing looks pretty too . Hope it can hold the weight of the tender , sure it will though because everything is thought through and though.
I had to check it out, NBC finds Steve on UA-cam.
ua-cam.com/video/umb5_mna07o/v-deo.html
We've all been here since the first lead pour...
Hi Steve, I believe the added weight is to dampen "rudder flutter". For this reason it's also why your "trailing edge" should be symmetrical and finished with a square edge and NOT rounded over. Cheers, Safe travels, see you out here.
There is something magical about watching a skilled worker using a chisel. Your work skills is a inspiration to us all Steve.
Thank you for brightening upp our week again
That’s so very kind. Thanks for being on the journey with us! Happy Friday.
Love the rudder ballast being inset rather than just attached to the edge. Smart move in my thoughts as well.
Great job Steve. Fairing should include a smooth and polish on that bronze edge beautifully. Can hardly wait. Coming right along.
I’m sure he’s used it numerous times but today was the first instance I noticed Steve using a Yankee screwdriver and what memories it brought back. My dad was a carpenter from the mid 1950s thru the late 1970s. I was routinely on a job site with him on weekends, no school days or in his shop in the evening while he built cabinets. If I saw him once, I saw him a 1000 times setting slotted wood screws with his well worn, Yankee Screwdriver. I never became proficient using it like he was……thanks for creating the flood of wonderful memories.
And thank you for sharing your memories.
You've gotta love a boat building video that includes metal casting.
Cheers from Alaska
🙌
Yea i was thinking the same thing about the weight on the rudder toward the bottom. It's probably there to naturally bring it back to center since the rudder is at an angle. Its like a stabilizer and counter weight at the same time. The man was brilliant. Under sail it will also help steering and to re-center the rudder. I don't think I would have even thought of doing that.
That's kinda what I'm thinking too. Acts a bit like caster on a car, or more likely a motorcycle. Keeps the rudder centered when not actively trying to steer.
I wonder if this was 'invented' accidentally .... like someone had to do an angled rudder to fit their new double ender hull design, and it sucked because the boat couldn't hold its course because the rudder always wanted to float up to one side or the other - so when they weighted it(to pull it down and thus unexpectedly straight back) they then discovered that their once squirrelly boat now would auto correct hands free dead ahead - and it became a feature instead of a problem, which a vertical rudder could have neither of
@@BenjaminT.Minkler like a trim tab…. The 25 pounds might be the weight that works best to help hold it at a specific angle when the boat is healed over
I was thinking it was there both for the reason you stated, to overcome the buoyancy of the wood, but also to counterbalance the tiller and help to return it to center when maneuvering at low speed.
Faboo episode. Less talking with a mix of wood and metal craft. Salut !
Anne & Ben, the sound is most excellent on this. I’m watching on my phone, listening with ear buds. When Steve was working on the rudder, I kept hearing noise coming from the other room. It was on video! Y’all do an outstanding job producing these episodes. Huzzah!
been watching for a while.Time to finally comment !! Great Work. I miss my old boats.
Good morning from western Australia this morning because I'm at work
Oh nice! I replication of the video that allowed most of us to find you! Cheers, can’t wait to watch!
Great watching you guys from 3 miles away. Go granby!
I love how so many years into this Steve is still wearing approach shoes. I'm partial to flip flops, but footwear its a very personal choice...
Awesome more progress! Keep rolling along Arabella crew! 👍👍
🙌
@@AcornToArabella 👍👍
That's some skill with the Adze!
Very lovely video clip this week. I loved the giant lead pour. That was my first episode.
My man has got to be like a world top 10 ads swinger by now.
17:30 Weather helm, the tendency for the boat to turn into the wind, is why the lead is there. Weather helm is desirable (achieved by proper sail trim) for sailing because it means that your keel-rudder combination is producing hydrodynamic lift to windward. As the boat heels over the pressure on the rudder to counter this weather helm would grow proportionally to the heel. The lead is there to compensate for this and adds a steering assist by drawing the rudder to leeward; or downwards while heeled. This will reduce the force required to hold the tiller in the necessary position to produce the desired hydrodynamic lift.
Thanks for another great video.
Who knew a rudder would be so complicated!? Now, we all do. Thanks, Steve, for sharing your passion and particularitis with those who appreciate it.
As we say in the description, it’s taken almost all of the skills needed to build the rest of the boat!
@@AcornToArabella Talking about the rudder, when you mentioned the wight I assumed it must serve a similar purpose as counter wight on control surfaces on an airplane to keep them level so you dont have to fight them staying level.
The rudder seems to be tilted backwards so the wight would center it if the rudder now is heavier then the water it displaces.
Due to the rudders angle any movement left or right (yea not marine terms but you get it XD) would elevate the wight a bit, gravity would want to pull it down aka center the rudder.
If you for some reason tilted the rudder forward instead it would probably prefer to go either all left or all right and not stay centered.
Its like when you where a kid and had something that could rotate around a stick but was heavier on one side that stuck out, tilting it back and forth would rotate that thing to what ever direction allowed it to point down.
Also you car should self center if you let go of the wheel due to how the front suspension is set up so I suspect this is the same thing, you want to go strait in your boat and not go in circles when ever your not paying 100% attention to the wheel so to speak.
Anyways my theory but it might not be the correct reason or it could be one of two, as you sad it wanting to float up is probably not desirable ether.
Good luck with the boat!
Excellent craftsmanship! Regarding the weight on the rudder my explanation is, when the boat is heeled over the lead weight at the edge of the rudder will pull down and therefore counteract weather helm. The boat will feel better on the rudder and it will be easier to steer.
Had to stop the video and comment when I saw old faithful the metal press come out! Made me think of Alex and hope he’s doing well.
We hear he’s doing a-ok! Thanks for watching!
That shot of the adze coming straight at you... Beautiful AND scary! Bravo.
They’re wonderful edge tools!
Ahhhh lead...the video that got me to start watching this channel
Great work since then
I love this whole adventure so very much. I'm in awe of the thousands of hours work you have poured into the Arabella. Magnificent!!
Thanks for being here, Roy!
@@AcornToArabella I have been watching from Tasmania on and off since the keel pour. Perhaps one day you will get to the Australian Wooden Boat festival !! It would be amazing to see the Arabella in person.
28 minutes goes by in a flash and before I know it I am left waiting for another week for the next glimpse at your progress. I guess I am just an Arabella junkie. Thank you for sharing your journey with us.
So glad you’re here and enjoying what we do!
My toes curl up every time you guys bring out the adze.
Got to see a mini-keel pour! Cool!
I’d sure love to hear the narration that Steve added early on in the build. As an example, you did all that work to fit the hinge, but no description. Thanks!
Nice job on the details of the rudder Stephen. Thanks for sharing.
🙌
Been here since attaching the lead to the keel! :)
Great.. I learned something new watching your video I'll be using soon..
Adze. It's one of my go-to Scrabble words. Keep up the good work.
That Victor lathe is impressive!
It’s really wonderful.
Love the adze work! It looks like it would be tough on the back though. Steve is obviously skilled with the adze- leaving a very even and pretty smooth cut! I’m afraid I’d leave it a mess!
Just a bit of practice yields good results.
What amazes me most is how you figure out beforehand the best method to translate Aktin's plan measurements on paper to the actual rudder's wood production WITHOUT having to do it completely all over again, like most of us). Just awesome!
1. "Steve's Rudderworks" t-shirt drop please.
2. To the editor. Time-lapse vid with Normal rate tool audio is OUTSTANDING. Such a pleasing effect!
3. Just carry on ALL! Love it! ALL OF IT!
Thanks, dude!
I could watch this build in real time. That's how much I've enjoyed it Steve and the rest of the gang. Just so you know.
Happy Friday 🎉
The gust of wind before the adze was epic. Like the wind did you a favor and got out of the way. Lol. Great job, it will look like a boat more when the rudder goes on. Until Next Friday, 🫡
See ya Friday!
Very Nice Job 👍 looking Good
The machine lathing @ 8:00 is the craziest thing I've seen in 3yrs of following this project. Master craftsman artisan. Amazing.
Joe is so experienced and wonderful-we’re grateful for him!
Pure ASMR watching Steve carve the slots in rudder for he hinge , great work Steve. You should have the Entire team and even you Anne sign some of the bigger chips from Steves Adze work on the rudder and have them encased in Clear resin and sell them.
Super music on this one Ben !
For me one of the most satisfying things to watch is the amazing chisel work. They (Steve, KP, Carolyn) make it look so easy. Love it.
Morning 'bella fam! Happy Friday! ☕
Haaaapppy Friday, Ryan!
Concerning the lead in the rudder: The wooden rudder will of course float and with a perfectly vertical turning axis that won't matter because the bronze fixtures will keep it there and turning it to the left or right won't change anything. However if you're not at 90° but the rudder is more or less hanging down from it's fixtures like in the picture, rotating the rudder around those means it's further up. So let's say you turn the rudder 20° to the left, the rudder is a bit closer to the surface than it was when you were steering straight. Now buoyancy will push for the rudder to be even farther up, which means it will push the rudder further to the left until it hits something and can't move further. The most stable position for a rudder like that is with the anchor points underneath it (which of course doesn't work, because there's a boat in the way), unless there's something heavy attached, that keeps it from floating up. So you should really look into how much lead you need because if you use to little, the rudder will move on it's own.
You can try this with a small wooden board in your bath tube. Just hold it at two points along one edge and try to push the board into the water. If the edge you're holding on to is 90° to the water surface, the board will just push up but turning it won't make a difference. If you hold it an angle like we see for Arabella, it will push to either side (unless you can hold it perfectly vertical).
Arabella is certainly being built to last, I love that. 100 years from now the then owner will have a rich resource in these detailed video "documents." That rudder is coming along nicely - Forward!
Part of the joy of watching A2A, is watching Steve & co. muddle through and pick up new skills, like pouring lead. Another part is the things he does that are just superlative, the adze and chain saw work being the top of that list.
Oh, and can we talk about that lathe chucking job? Wow.
Joe is a wizard. We’re so lucky.
I've never used an adz, but you make it look so easy. I couldn't imagine wielding such a tool on something I had spent so much time to initially put together. I have always enjoyed watching the skill with which you work.
It’s a little easier than it looks. The tool is made to be controlled well. Ancient and wonderful.
I really like the shot of Steve using the adz while the camera backed away. It’s just a man in the big world making a wooden boat.
Awesome episode.
Good Job again!
Happy Friday, Graeme!
Arabella is looking great.
Thanks, James!
I love that you have a lathe in the shop in the garage !
The weight in the rudder is for self-centering. The transom is angled so any rudder deflection causes the weight to be lifted so it’ll tend to want to hang straight.
👍
Jim 922 from Arkansas, I have been watching from the beginning. Every week I am just in awe with the progress on the project. Something new every week and Steve is always up to the challenge. I Love this episode.ps and a hardy hello to all the crew working behind the scenes in the boat house.
Cheers, Jim! Thank you!
I pride myself on being a good woodworker but you people are awesome. I have watched from close to the beginning and find inspiration in most every video. Keep up the great work. There will be great joy and sadness when this project is over. Thank you !!!
i really hope steve ENJOYS sailing. being stuck on a small boat in the ocean is way different than being a woodworker on a boat. all the skills of the last 4yrs (and there are many) and suddenly he will stop to sail
I think he gets that they’re different. In fact, he’s looking forward to it with gusto. -Anne
What a great way to start a Friday morning. The rudder is amazing, the bronze weight nicely done. Stephen wields a mean adze. Thanks guys and Ben
Another too quickly ended video! Wonderful cam work, great music and great work with the adze! Next week's edition can't come too soon! Stay well and stay safe!
Love the adze work. Learning.
Extremely satisfying episode. Steve you are a genius. Camera work was expectational. Can you comment on when you are going to take some sailing lessons?
When we launch, Steve’s first sail will be aboard Arabella and he’ll learn on her and in Victoria the dinghy with friends.
This rudder is amazing. I especially liked seeing your tapered circular saw jig. I don't know where I can use it, but I will think on it and design something I can taper like that. Thanks for sharing.
Sweet spot on the Today program.
Pouring more lead made me miss Alex a little bit... Totally cool how you made the rudder! 👍🏽
Hi Steve, I suppose the lead is to counteract the buoyancy of the rudder to keep the boat steering easier on a very light wind. As the center of buoyancy is lower then the rudder hanging axis the buoyancy will turn the rudder away from the neutral position to a side. So the lead will keep the rudder in amidship position. Best wishes!
Exactly what I was thinking 🙂
In my opinion this weight helps for self steering. I owe a sailing model which steers (due to the same weight on the lower end of the rudder) by it self. The ideal is , in the model , when the boat is heeling over and tends to steer towards the wind the rudder is falling to lee and by so keeping the vessel on course. …. On the model, made from old drawings, this really works. It keeps it course without a remote control on the rudder.
@@marcoheijboer7003 This is very interesting what you say but I am afraid the added weight is not enough to steer the boat but just good to make the rudder neutral. When the boat heels much (on gusts for instance) the straightning moment is so great so to keep the boat on course you have to apply a great force on the rudder. This is dozens of kilos (on rudder not on tiler). Under the water everything is getting lighter so to steer the boat the way you say it would require double weight. So my point is the influence of the rudder weight is a tiny bit compare to the forces that are in place and that keeps the boat balanced.
So the main force that pulls the boat away from the wind comes form the balanced sails when the center of the sails forces is upfront the center of the boat mass. And this is the great force.
Great work as always guys, and a big thank you for keeping it clean for all audiences!
Another great video. You guys knocked it out of the park. My Friday night is complete, I bid you good night.
Good morning Akiva and Crew 😸😺
Happy Friday!
@@AcornToArabella 👍😻😸😺
Wow, I just revisited the keel pour videos 2 days ago and now we're treated with this :D
It’s a gall-dern miracle.
Very cool addition to the rudder Steve! Great work.
I love hearing your thought process 😀
Really enjoyed both the content and the style/format of this video. Seeing the lathe in use brought back memories of when you were collecting all of those machines. Good times!
Steve - Old guy tip: When you have a 5 gallon pail with a bung you can lay the pail on its side with the bung up, and then roll the pail on the bench to begin the pour. Way easier than tipping it to pour.
👍👍
My favourite day. Great content - nice camera work.
Cheers and happy Friday!
I'm always amazed that a tool like your adz can be used in such a precise method, and also memorable was seeing lead cut with a chainsaw ! Really loved this video !
They’re amazing tools! Thank you very much.
My weekly oasis of sanity. Thank you Team for another absolutely top knotch episode. Keep on rocking.
I too, have been here since the first keel pour.
Been watching from lead to lead, adze everything in between
I was thinking how many fine details would make the rudder build so "hard." Once I remembered how a whole boat of "fine" details have been accomplished, it's seemed rather simple....well to watch anyway!! Great job. DD
THE ADZ IS BACK!!
🙌🙌🙌
Nice use of teasers at the end of vids, congrats on the Sunday morning news piece, it’s gotta be validating to get the recognition!
We’re grateful!
great stuff
Happy Friday, Gary!
Good Morning y'all
Happy Friday, Mark!
I liked that a lot.
Great progress. The rudder work was a revelation.
Beautiful work Steve &crew! Another entertaining and informative video.
Cheers! Happy Friday!
The progress you've made on that rudder in just a few weeks is exceptional. Local guy I know spent over a year repairing his.
Good practical solution to mount the lead weight
Fantastic bronze detail..!
I love it
Charles Emerson Winchester III from M*A*S*H expressed my sentiments exactly, “Autumn in New England, can there be anything be more sublime and beautiful?”
funny how i have no interests in boats or sailing but still enjoying these videos as i did at the start, loving the craftsmanship and the technicalities that go into the designs that have been fine tuned over many hundreds of years, adding the weight onto the rudder makes perfect sense in the same way that moving surfaces on aircraft have trim tabs to stabilise during flight, that weight will assist in steering and prevent the rudder from waggling like a loose flipper i guess
So glad you enjoy what we do. Happy Friday!
Jackpot, another keel pour style video!
🎉🎉🎉
I may have missed 5 or 6 episodes of your fantastic build. its looks really fantastic . one question ive had since the hull was completed is why have you chosen a tiller verses a wheel. it sees to me that it would take more effort with the tiller.. just a thought..i WISH i could be there for the launch.. an Excalibur chanell to be sure!!
Looking at the geometry on the plans there could be a self centering component with the lead also a counterbalance when healed over making it lighter or more manageable on the tiller. Interesting design, and probably tunable to the pilots preference.
@Acorn To Arabella You are right. The lead increases the moment of inertia of the rudder and thereby reduce the change of angular speed of the rudder, mostly by waves would be my guess. Putting the mass further out from the pivot of the rudder increases this effect for the same mass.
Nice to see that belt sander put to use! The rudder looks great!
It’s a beast! Thanks for watching.
Since you have a wooden rudder, which floats and your hinge is tilted, the rudder wants to float up. It will either turn to SB or to PS as a result of this. Now it is balanced and will stay put unless you pull the helm. If you put more lead in it will try to remain centred and the helm will be heavy at larger angles.
It’ll be interesting to see how it feels… I’ve not sailed a boat that has a weighted rudder, and most likely with just 25 lbs, the thing will be neutrally buoyant rather than prone to sink. It’ll be interesting for sure. -Anne
@@AcornToArabella Realise the 25lbs was calculated by Atkins based on volume of the rudder en the specific weight of the wood. By using heavier wood you need less lead and when using lighter wood more lead. More taper less volume of wood, so less lead and so on.