We are a video & audio digitalizing professional company we use the 4 Wolverine Pro converting system for over 3 years and we are very happy with the machine. My advice for increasing quality 1) clean first before the film before you start converting, set up your exposure and sharpness & next you start digitalizing. One of the wolverine pro scannings right now ridge over 8000 files of films we change only one motor,
I'm awaiting delivery of one. I have a lot of 7 inch reels which I suppose means there are gong to be lots of splices. My question is: If I don't really care too much about the film once I have it digitized, can I just cut out the bad sections (not caring if I lose a few seconds here and there,) and just rethread it and get on with the task? I don't want to have to repair old film strips. I guess I wouldn't mind keeping around the "source material," but honestly I don't really care about it after the fact.
Yes you can, I have had a number of films that have actually broken in spots, I just spooled it back on and captured the rest of the film. As for keeping the originals, well I think that is a personal decision. I can't bring myself to do that and will leave it up to my family to make that decision in the future once I am gone. Very important to make at least three back up copies with one being a remote backup. I use and recommend Wasabi wasabi.com
Here is my personal opinion. I removed my earlier comment about rewind issues. I just didn't do it correctly. Now after processing ca. 1500 feet of Super 8 and double 8 movie film, I can say I like the machine. It works exactly as the company claims...IF the film being processed is high quality. If the film is not 1st class (clear images, sharp colors, etc.) the output is virtually worthless. This is were after scanning software comes in. I use PowerDirector 14 (an older version) and it works miracles with what the Wolverine Pro puts out. It easily cleans up the "noise" and "stabilizes" the movie. The speed adjust abilities of PowerDirector are suburb.
It gets the job done. You do have to attend the machine because it will hang up on splices. Be diligent to clean the scan surface and make sure the film is threaded and seated correctly or you’re finished product will be jumpy. If you know how to edit, it loads easily into an editing program like Premier Pro.
I agree with all your points and yes Editing the video that is produced from the scan is a breeze in any editing program as the video files are small in size and resolution, but very watchable.
It's funny, I've watched a bunch of these digitizer reviews and it's hard to find anybody saying bad things about them. People seem to really like them. But, the crazy thing is, the machine looks like a frigging toy.
Yes they do look a bit like a toy but in reality they are much like the original projectors used to display the film in the first place and they work, I have done lot more films since I made the video and it has not missed a beat. Occasionally I may have to re run a film due to gate jumping but the second run through always seems to solve the problem.
We are a video & audio digitalizing professional company we use the 4 Wolverine Pro converting system for over 3 years and we are very happy with the machine. My advice for increasing quality 1) clean first before the film before you start converting, set up your exposure and sharpness & next you start digitalizing. One of the wolverine pro scannings right now ridge over 8000 files of films we change only one motor,
Great review! Thanks!
Thank you I am glad you appreciate it. By the way I have done heaps more films since then and the unit seems to be holding up well.
I'm awaiting delivery of one. I have a lot of 7 inch reels which I suppose means there are gong to be lots of splices. My question is:
If I don't really care too much about the film once I have it digitized, can I just cut out the bad sections (not caring if I lose a few seconds here and there,) and just rethread it and get on with the task? I don't want to have to repair old film strips. I guess I wouldn't mind keeping around the "source material," but honestly I don't really care about it after the fact.
Yes you can, I have had a number of films that have actually broken in spots, I just spooled it back on and captured the rest of the film. As for keeping the originals, well I think that is a personal decision. I can't bring myself to do that and will leave it up to my family to make that decision in the future once I am gone. Very important to make at least three back up copies with one being a remote backup. I use and recommend Wasabi wasabi.com
Here is my personal opinion. I removed my earlier comment about rewind issues. I just didn't do it correctly. Now after processing ca. 1500 feet of Super 8 and double 8 movie film, I can say I like the machine. It works exactly as the company claims...IF the film being processed is high quality. If the film is not 1st class (clear images, sharp colors, etc.) the output is virtually worthless. This is were after scanning software comes in. I use PowerDirector 14 (an older version) and it works miracles with what the Wolverine Pro puts out. It easily cleans up the "noise" and "stabilizes" the movie. The speed adjust abilities of PowerDirector are suburb.
Hi Dale I am glad you now have the device working well and giving you good memories.
It gets the job done. You do have to attend the machine because it will hang up on splices. Be diligent to clean the scan surface and make sure the film is threaded and seated correctly or you’re finished product will be jumpy. If you know how to edit, it loads easily into an editing program like Premier Pro.
I agree with all your points and yes Editing the video that is produced from the scan is a breeze in any editing program as the video files are small in size and resolution, but very watchable.
Thank you;
There is not enough data flow for a film, but it is quite enough for undemanding customers.
It's funny, I've watched a bunch of these digitizer reviews and it's hard to find anybody saying bad things about them. People seem to really like them. But, the crazy thing is, the machine looks like a frigging toy.
Yes they do look a bit like a toy but in reality they are much like the original projectors used to display the film in the first place and they work, I have done lot more films since I made the video and it has not missed a beat. Occasionally I may have to re run a film due to gate jumping but the second run through always seems to solve the problem.