@@BenjaminNelsonX I learned about it right away when I started in sound engineering. I’ve been able to introduce heaps of people to it and most have swapped to using it.
If you have a Tesla service center nearby it's worth checking what they want for it. The window regulator for my 2013 P85+ broke a couple years ago and my service center had a new one for just over $200. They also had it in stock so no wait. It's been revised several times since the original one I had that broke. New one looks like a better design. I installed it myself and it's been working fine. As for Dorman parts... let's just say they have a rather dim reputation among mechanics...
It's definitely aftermarket, but at $50 to have a working window, it sounded like a pretty good deal! It actually DOES look like it is an improved design over the original window regulator. No idea how it compares to Tesla's current offering. I would guess probably about the same. I also did test the window motor, and that works fine. No reason to replace that.
Wild that I’m actually going through the exact same thing right now. My model s just quit and when I dropped the battery pack that’s the exact same thing that happened to mine. The fuse cover rusted and I had about 1/8” of standing water in the front of the pack. It’s good to know about the software connection issues as well as you just needing to reseat the pack to clear that final error. Thank you so much for posting this to help the rest of us!
Can’t just replace fuse cover. Know a guy that did this and car died 1000 miles from home within 6months. I’ve seen inside battery pack. There are more corrosions that need to be dealt with before it fails. Google “Tesla battery condebsation failure” failure and read Tesla motor club thread.
@@howardc1964 I have gotten little to no good info from that site. It’s mostly just people saying take it to Tesla. Reminds me of the BMW 7 series forums. Anyway one of my friends did this to his about 3 years and 60k miles ago and his is still going strong so it’s not DEFINITELY going to fail soon after. Part of that is the fact that some people just dry out the inside of the case and don’t actually pull the modules, dry them, and make sure there is no corrosion on the bottom of the modules. I actually didn’t even get the water intrusion code in mine. Somehow condensation got on the one of the modules BMS boards and fried it. So the car thought I had module with 4 cells at 0.004v. All cells “good cells” were reporting within a few mv of 3.945v but my total pack voltage was 378v so I knew I didn’t have a module with 4 cells sitting at 0.004v. Looking at the cell numbers I knew it was module 9 but I didn’t know if 8 was the top and 9 was the bottom or vice versa. So I pulled them both, found the burnt out board, checked the modules for any moisture or corrosion, replaced the bad board and reinstalled them. I’m just now getting ready to put the battery back in the car and was looking for videos on what all I was going to need to do as far as on the software side of things after I put it back in.
Sure feels like aluminum. I think that it was a different part in a later recall which was titanium. www.tesla.com/blog/tesla-adds-titanium-underbody-shield-and-aluminum-deflector-plates-model-s
The advantage of the tape is that it comes right back off. So when I get my new part in the mail, I can just take out the temporary window, and install the original glass.
@@BenjaminNelsonX cant wait for the next instalment for the tractor build, hopefully when you get the tesla up and running you'll a good cheap motor if you can get rid of the gremlins. The age of that model S would that come with free tesla charging.
@@BenjaminNelsonX You hit the jack pot then, happy days, I know a guy who has brought one of the early model S and he brought it because of that, the problem he's got is the battery is dead and tesla uk want £11,000 to put new battery in, its only done 120k but he's found if he doesn't let the range get below 60 miles exactly 🤷♀ he can charge up to full but if he goes below it takes a few days for something to re set and get out of some limp mode. He was going to have to scrap it but he paid 30k and that would rally hurt.
It's a 12 year old car. I just think the previous owners never took it in for maintenance and recalls. As far as I can tell, all the problems with it are relatively common issues which were simply never taken care of.
When working with materials like marine-grade sealant, I want to make sure to wear clothing that I can just throw away when done! Did you see my shorts?
As always, please read the full video description for links and more information!
This is exciting Ben. You deserve this car!!
Funny seeing a silver Tesla roll out of the garage rather than a big ole red tractor!
Now I gotta roll that back in and finish it off!
Gaff tape can help solve soo many problems! Glad to see it helped with your window.
It's true! So many people don't know the difference between duct tape and gaffer's tape! Amazing stuff.
@@BenjaminNelsonX I learned about it right away when I started in sound engineering. I’ve been able to introduce heaps of people to it and most have swapped to using it.
If you have a Tesla service center nearby it's worth checking what they want for it. The window regulator for my 2013 P85+ broke a couple years ago and my service center had a new one for just over $200. They also had it in stock so no wait. It's been revised several times since the original one I had that broke. New one looks like a better design. I installed it myself and it's been working fine. As for Dorman parts... let's just say they have a rather dim reputation among mechanics...
It's definitely aftermarket, but at $50 to have a working window, it sounded like a pretty good deal! It actually DOES look like it is an improved design over the original window regulator. No idea how it compares to Tesla's current offering. I would guess probably about the same. I also did test the window motor, and that works fine. No reason to replace that.
@@BenjaminNelsonX Yeah, it's nice to see aftermarket parts starting to become available. The Dorman part didn't exist when I fixed mine.
Wild that I’m actually going through the exact same thing right now. My model s just quit and when I dropped the battery pack that’s the exact same thing that happened to mine. The fuse cover rusted and I had about 1/8” of standing water in the front of the pack. It’s good to know about the software connection issues as well as you just needing to reseat the pack to clear that final error.
Thank you so much for posting this to help the rest of us!
Can’t just replace fuse cover. Know a guy that did this and car died 1000 miles from home within 6months. I’ve seen inside battery pack. There are more corrosions that need to be dealt with before it fails. Google “Tesla battery condebsation failure” failure and read Tesla motor club thread.
@@howardc1964 I have gotten little to no good info from that site. It’s mostly just people saying take it to Tesla. Reminds me of the BMW 7 series forums. Anyway one of my friends did this to his about 3 years and 60k miles ago and his is still going strong so it’s not DEFINITELY going to fail soon after. Part of that is the fact that some people just dry out the inside of the case and don’t actually pull the modules, dry them, and make sure there is no corrosion on the bottom of the modules.
I actually didn’t even get the water intrusion code in mine. Somehow condensation got on the one of the modules BMS boards and fried it. So the car thought I had module with 4 cells at 0.004v. All cells “good cells” were reporting within a few mv of 3.945v but my total pack voltage was 378v so I knew I didn’t have a module with 4 cells sitting at 0.004v. Looking at the cell numbers I knew it was module 9 but I didn’t know if 8 was the top and 9 was the bottom or vice versa. So I pulled them both, found the burnt out board, checked the modules for any moisture or corrosion, replaced the bad board and reinstalled them.
I’m just now getting ready to put the battery back in the car and was looking for videos on what all I was going to need to do as far as on the software side of things after I put it back in.
Are you sure that the battery protection plate is aluminum. they were reported as titanium
Sure feels like aluminum. I think that it was a different part in a later recall which was titanium.
www.tesla.com/blog/tesla-adds-titanium-underbody-shield-and-aluminum-deflector-plates-model-s
Nice job, my 70D need every year something to be repair also, after 425000 km it's normal,😉🤞
Eric from Belgium
Great job Ben!! I think I’ll start looking for a dead Tesla. 🤣
Nice work as always.
I'm pretty sure that bash plate is actually titanium
I'm glad you didn't use sealant and opted for tape 🤣🤣🤭, sorry my bad Ill see my self out, this has been great to watch. 👍
The advantage of the tape is that it comes right back off. So when I get my new part in the mail, I can just take out the temporary window, and install the original glass.
@@BenjaminNelsonX cant wait for the next instalment for the tractor build, hopefully when you get the tesla up and running you'll a good cheap motor if you can get rid of the gremlins. The age of that model S would that come with free tesla charging.
@@ricardo-iw9sq YES! This car has UNLIMITED FREE SUPERCHARGING!
@@BenjaminNelsonX You hit the jack pot then, happy days, I know a guy who has brought one of the early model S and he brought it because of that, the problem he's got is the battery is dead and tesla uk want £11,000 to put new battery in, its only done 120k but he's found if he doesn't let the range get below 60 miles exactly 🤷♀ he can charge up to full but if he goes below it takes a few days for something to re set and get out of some limp mode. He was going to have to scrap it but he paid 30k and that would rally hurt.
Nice work!
super exciting
is the disco ball for emergencies only?
Yes. It's hooked up to a large red button labeled "PARTY EMERGENCY".
Tesla only have one back up light.
BUT IT'S SUPPOSED TO HAVE TWO!
@@BenjaminNelsonX
None have that in Sweden. It was like a standing joke at Tesla Club Sweden years ago.
Need a window regulator buy a brand new window regulator do not buy the motor because the motor works you can't fix that
Yes, I'm buying a regulator but NOT a motor.
Many faults on same car.
It makes me think faults are common, or an extremely unlucky previous owner.
It's a 12 year old car. I just think the previous owners never took it in for maintenance and recalls. As far as I can tell, all the problems with it are relatively common issues which were simply never taken care of.
with all that $ savings, you can buy a new tshirt! ;)
When working with materials like marine-grade sealant, I want to make sure to wear clothing that I can just throw away when done! Did you see my shorts?