Old Mechanic Tricks To Doing A Better Brake Job
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
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Great video, Stephen! I just sent a small cash donation to Ethan's fundraiser. I CHALLENGE ALL OF YOU FELLOW VIEWERS here to do the same. After all, where can you better spend your money than supporting America's future?
For anyone that watches:
First thing I suggest doing is drowning everything with brake clean, otherwise when you start touching the brakes all of that dust is going to go in the air and into your lungs.
It's an open secret in the auto industry that your brakes still do, in fact, contain asbestos, folks..
Secondly I would suggest using medium-strength blue thread-lock on the caliper bracket bolts, the red often requires a torch to remove later on
Stephen I know this video was a long time ago for you, I actually found it through a video of yours from 2017, thank you for trying to give insight to others(sorry about the screwdriver hopefully you got it warrantied) and most of all thank you for using jackstands, you would be amazed how many guys on UA-cam do these kinds of videos with only a jack supporting a vehicle
Agree with all but for one point. Put rounded-face brake hose pliers on flexible brake hose and open bleeder screw (with a plastic hose emptying expelled fluid into a container) before pushing piston back into caliper - consult any brake manufacturer's textbook and it will say the same. Problem is if you don't, you risk any contaminants in the fluid behind the piston in the caliper getting back into the ABS unit, a unit which is not repairable - and is expensive. If contaminants end up in the ABS unit, then a good chance of ABS unit going "wheels up" at some stage. Topping up with a bit of brake fluid is much cheaper than replacing an ABS unit. Just remember to close off the bleeder screw and remove the brake hose pliers after the piston has been retracted. Bob Hudson. Retired mechanic - Land Down Under.
For guide pin holes that have had pins stuck in them that have rust in them, I wrap some scotch brite around a drill bit and clean the holes up like new with the drill.
That works well. I have used drill bits in the past to clean up, but not take off material with great success as well.
To keep you from snapping more expensive Snap-On prybars...I mean screwdrivers...use a large set of c-clamps to push the pistons back in before pulling the caliper off. You can even weld a nut onto the end of the screw so you don't have to crank on the little handles.
The cleaning stuff is a great tip. I love your videos because the nuance is good to know about wirebrushing the surfaces. Plenty of videos will just teach you how to grease up the rubber contact surfaces. Replaced the brake calipers on my F350 7.3L and got my first torque wrench, Milwaukee impact, jack, and jack stands (in addition to learning about jack safety). Time to get myself a wire brush and some of that surface cleaner.
A little Fluid Film spray added where the parts touch metal to metal will make it easier to take apart later. Too much could get on the brake pad and rotor braking surfaces. It is safe for rubber parts.
The guides are stainless. Put the grease under to prevent rust jacking. Not on top. Rust belt dwellers know all to well
Thanks for your time and tips!
Simple job, but one we just don't want to do... I usually get stuck doing them when the shop is full.. so outside in the wet gravel...
To keep the rotor from getting wiggly and doing whatever it wants I hand tighten a lug nut until the rotor quits moving.Also anything that contacts rubber gets silicon slide pin grease and everything else gets antiseize, especially the hub face up here in the rust belt.
Enjoyed the video... I've always preferred to loosen the bleeder screw before pushing the piston back in. I don't want to push crap back into my brake lines.
Ive heard some anti lock valve bodies do not like fluid being pushed back from the piston being compressed.
Your method also avoids over flowing the fluid reservoir.
And ruin the master cylinder seals. Do it right and keep fresh fluid entering the cylinder.
@@whitemonkey7932 I don't know how far that fluid would travel. In general brake lines don't see fluid flow, they see pressure changes but the fluid flow remains stagnant except for the fluid that backfills wheel cylinders as the pads wear.
@@oldretireddude and when you push the wheel cylinders back....where does that go? Think for yourself.
@@oldretireddude yes...that's the point...open the bleed nipple and change the fluid at the same time
I can tell he was nervous. I love it love the little push.....keep him on his toes
Been running Wagner's for years and had great luck with them on a Full-size Bronco.
Try doing brake jobs in northern New England and then tell me to just use a wire brush. You would lose your shirt on flat rate w/out power tools while surrounded by rust.
In New England rust is the obstacle making all simple repairs a swear fest.
Its not that much worse. I learned a TON of tricks from South Main Auto on brakes in the rustbelt. I use a brake file to clean up the slides in a matter of minutes, then coat with a grease on the bracket under the clips to prevent rust jacking.Clean up the hub surface and coat with fluid film to prevent further sticking.
@@mph5896 Rust jacking. I knew there had to be a name for that.
I had never heard of a brake file tho I have seen them in tool boxes.
Now I have to go tool shopping.
Thanks for the video dad.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but the brake clips will corrode under the clip on the bracket. I feel that’s were you should put the lube to help with the corrosion and seizing of the pads in the bracket.
Yes, rust will build up in between them and seize the pad. I always put anti seize between them as well as on top of the clip.
As someone from NY, I agree with you. Not really an issue in Texas though. Plus it's a new bracket, so adding lube to a fresh finish will just attract more dust.
Have you ever tried applying a little caliper grease where the hub and rotor make contact? I tried it when I put new rotors on my Jeep, mostly because of the road salt and the rust it causes. Hopefully my wheels don't fly off lol
Who's the old mechanic? Lol great advice. Taking your time is always best. This is why you stay away from any "quick" titled service especially if it is a dealership
My Husband worked on Cars and Trucks for Thirty Years he Love's your videos That is one good young man you have there God Bless
Wow, thank you!
I think I’ve got a set of Wagner pads for my truck I bought 2yrs ago for my 95 250, ive since sold my 95 & got a 93 250 & haven’t had to change the pads yet. I drove 8K miles on the 95 & never had to touch the pads. I think my 93 has decent life on the pads left, so might change them soon.
Hey guys, I fixed the link to my sons fundraiser! thank y'all for letting me know!
Doesn’t work today, Friday, February 12,2021
Good job. Just like I do! - you need a bigger hammer! Also a good pry bar to leverage tire/wheel back on. Try it!
Hey STEVE. fix that leaky air hose. 😂🤣
A mechanic friend recommended opening the purge valve and collect the fluid when returning the piston to avoid fluid backup the line and messing with the ABS sensors readings. Do you agree?
I've known several mechanic that do it that way. I don't personally see the need for it but his way isn't wrong either.
You fix brakes like you just met your girlfriend.
I do brake jobs the exact way except the screwdriver pry bar. I use a c-clamp after removing the caliper. Tried Power stop drilled and slotted rotors and they were the worst ever.
Good video...... except for one thing..... use a TORQUE WRENCH.....ugga duggas are NOT a safe way to tighten lug nuts
This is where I can't wait to see if I have missed anything since I specialize in brakes and tires.
There are no tricks, no gimmicks or short cuts to doing a brake job. Just do the job correctly and keep safety in mind. Pay attention to what you are doing and don't rush the job.
I always learn something Stephen, awesome. You're so lucky you don't have to deal with rust from salted winter roads. Great video, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
good luck with sales Ethan💯
Someone’s been watching AvE lol
Like who doesn't?
I knew it was about to go lol
Man I'm always down to learn new things even if I've done job 100 times
I had to stop going to O'Rielly's a couple of decades ago after a run of a dozen or so wrong parts in a row.
Thay are still the same way.
I use them all the time but if possible I take the old part with me to compare with!!!👍🇺🇸
My FIL taught me to use a c clamp and the old pad and it pushes the piston right back in. No tools broken 👌
Those thin spacers are on there because the railroad uses a wheel like an inside dually wheel at all four corners on hi-rail trucks so the tires can run on the rail. The spacer is most likely there to sorta fine tune the wheel spacing so the center of the tires are running on the center of the rail when hi-railing.
Pro tip: Always check the master cylinder fluid level.
I hate it when some lube tech tops it off. Compressing the pistons can cause the reservoir to overflow corrosive brake fluid onto everything below.
Nearly every mechanic has done this at some point.
OCD???... maybe that's my problem. The hardest part for me is cleaning all of the mud and manure and rust and then repaint everything. All of my stuff get full of mud and crap because I have a small ranch. I helped a few friends do their brakes. And it amazes me how fast and easy things are done on city driven clean vehicles.
Step #1 Loosen Brake Fluid Reservoir Cap to prevent seals from reversing themselves, Place a Clean Rag over the Cap and Reservoir should absorb Brake Fluid if it overflows.
Brake Fluid is Caustic, that means it will react with Automotive Paint and cause it to wrinkle and complete release from the Substraight.
Man you’re so right about parts stores now. They charge triple what you can get the exact same part for on rock auto or Amazon. And sometimes Amazon can get it to you faster because at oreillys there are the “special orders.” I avoid oreillys as much as I can now unless an emergency
I truly like your torque procedures. In the Army ba k in the 70s I worked on trucks and that were the torque procedure.
Always lift with you legs and not your back.
I always apply never-seize between the brake rotor and the hub to prevent rust or corrosion so the next time you need to remove the rotor it will come off far easier.
I use napa fleet pads on my service truck. 52k....
Not to criticize but why didn't you use grease on the metal to metal portions such as the clips and caliper bracket? Is there any reason you don't?
I agree Napa is Failing hard...O'Reilly Auto Parts Idk even know where one would be lol...when is Harbor Freight going to sell car parts 😏😏😏
Wagner power stops are actually good pads, I never had any returns when using them.
I was pumping my mechanic about putting drilled and started rotors on my excursion and he said the first time you get them wear their trashed is that true
I have used Wagner brake parts for longer than I can remember at this point on all types of vehicles and never had a returning customer or problem with them. I don't agree with red loctite on the caliper bracket bolts - I stick with blue so they will hold but come off without a lot of pain. Good information and been doing it that way for a long time now.
Can also use purple light hold
Agreed...never red loctite on the bracket bolts.
3m makes a deep wheel stud grinder attachment for cleaning around the studs. Makes cleaning the hubs easier.
Personally, I use a large screwdriver or small pry-bar to compress the piston enough to make it easy to remove the caliper and then, with the inner brake pad still in place, use a C-clamp to finish compressing the piston until it bottoms out. Just take it slow and easy while the brake fluid makes its way back to the master cylinder reservoir.
No go on greasing where the pad sits in the hardware on caliper bracket. No wonder why your pad was stuck on one side...
Powerstop is pretty good the rotors and pads I used when I had my Malibu lasted for 40K miles till I turned it back in for another car
Y'all in Texas budda?
9:04 .. anyone else have the South Maine Auto Repair break cleaner noise spontaneously play internally?
Remember kids.Any tool can be a hammer and most tools can be a pry bar.
Agreed, every tool has a hammer side lol
Agree
lots of play on the front axle yoke's !!!
Sometimes it's the simple things that get you! It never seems to amaze me that so many experienced mechanics don't know to take the cap off the master cylinder before trying to pry the brake pads! This releases pressure making the prying easier and keeps the pad piston from creeping back out!
yes I always take the cap off before compressing the piston. I also never have to even compress the piston to get the caliper off the bracket. I also wait until to compress the piston once the caliper is off the bracket.
I appreciate the knowledge. I never put 2 and 2 together.
They arn't mechanics
@@kirstenspencer3630 fail sometimes your in a rush and over look the cap
It's even easier if you let the bleeder screw loose
Does any know how all the oil pumps back into fuel tank on 1995 7.3 diesel (15 to 20 minutes motor dies no oil to hypos)Thanks to anyone with suggestions.
I always coat the backs with a little crc anti vibe stuff too - not sure it helps but my brakes are quiet so maybe...
I have had a lot of luck with power stops too. I am convinced that the o’rilley house brand are re branded power stops.
Speed vs hydraulics.... the latter wins
No loctite, and you should grease the brake pads where the calipers contact them
Great video, and even learned a few things. Dont agree with the red loctite on the bolts though. Far as the grease, that is how I was taught to do it and never had any issues, but I also grease the backing plates where the piston in the caliber makes contact. Also loosening your brake res cap can make pushing the piston in a tad easier, but be sure to take precautions if you think it may be overfilled and overflow once that space in the system is lessened.
For me I use the brake lube under the clips also. That way it doesn't rust under clips
I stayed in tonight to buy some things for your school Ethan
Can you give us what the total raised when the fundraiser is done?
Agree with everything but using locktite.
I will use loctite but I find blue works just fine. Red seems like overkill unless the spec calls for it.
For instance if VW calls for it on their car you better use it. Such a requirement is a sure sign of sub par engineering.
The factory uses thread locker on those caliper bracket bolts for a reason, otherwise it's just an unneeded extra cost in the assembly process, which they would not do. Every on of those brackets I have ever taken off had thread locker on the bracket bolts.
@@ralfie8801 The ones I have seen factory were blue. Not that their color performance necessarily matches ours but I found it interesting.
4x4Scout
That's why I just said thread locker, the stuff on my Duramax was green or yellow if I remember right. I tend to use the blue also, just so long as it has something there. A lot of times the original application leaves enough interference in the threads that another application isn't really needed to prevent loosening of the fasteners.
@@ralfie8801 Honestly just the proper torque should be enough. Thread locker is just insurance really.
Damn, Ethan is growing like a weed.
As an internet arm chair mechanic I wouldn't lube the stainless steel hardware... I lube the caliper bracket underneath the hardware that you hit with the wire brush! Cuz that's where they rust fam
I've used Wagner TQ pads for 20yrs or more and have always had great success. One tip if you're reusing pins/slides and too lazy to go to bench or no grinder handy... chuck the pin in a drill and hold a Scotchbrite or wire brush to it. I also like wrapping fine sandpaper or a piece of a rag around a drill bit and cleaning the bracket slide holes with it. I swear by a little antiseize on the hub face too - just a hack's opinion after 30yrs of working on my own vehicles.
Waa waa waa 🙃🤐
Up north here ( rust belt )greasing the crap out of the breaks is standard practice I have even seen some shops sand blast where you put the break clips
Agreed, but put the grease under the hardware, not on the side exposed to the pads. Those two were made to live together nekked.
YES STEPHEN! I learned the screwdriver through the caliper trick from my uncle!
When using a pry-bar to fully seat the caliper piston remove master cylinder cover and remove excess fluid. Else you got a mess on your hands. I also use PB Blaster for rusted caliper pins and Permatex Nevr-Sieze for caliper slides.
Good job, seems like Ford products are a little different ...
No, not at all. It is universal for 3/4 and 1 ton trucks (with regard to hub-centered wheel).
Do you antiseize the hug face? I'm from upstate NY and that is a must.
Buffalo area. I hear you. I had to beat the crap out of my rotors to get them off my '17 ram 2500
I dont but you should if you live in the rust belt.
@@StephenCoxfixit just thought it would be a nice tip to add to it. I have never thought of the screwdriver trick. No "tapping" the caliper off
I live in Fl and I antiseize my hubs. The humidity and rain will rust them together. I use C clamp to retract piston. I used to do it with caliper off truck but found it easier to do it before removing caliper especially on single piston calipers.
mandatory in Canada as far as I'm concerned...
Brake fluid change is good to do during a brake job.
I always tighten my brake bolts to 6 uga-Dugas just for good measure. 😁
Hello!
I have usually repaired my cars myself, including repair work on the brakes. Do not rush ,the extra time is always the key here!
I always used NAPA Seal Glide.
Everybody has that one product they use for brakes. As an apprentice, I was told to use this that and the other. Always had comebacks for brake noise.
Don't have that problem with Seal Glide
Motorcraft rotors and Centric posi quiet ceramic brake pads for my Lincoln truck. I also cover my wheel hub with copper anti sieze after I wire brush it and spray brake cleaner on it. Great video.
Two important things are don’t forget to put new brackets in the little metal peace’s the pads slide on and second use brake grease that will 100% stop the squeaks. Put some grease on the brackets where the pads slide on and grease up the piston ring that pushes on the back pad. And check the pins pull them out re grease them make sure they move freely and easy or else you could get a stuck piston and your brakes won’t work. Not a bad idea to bleed the system either and add some new fluid
Same issues calling in an order here in Oklahoma local auto parts place. I’m of the opinion they’re using a lying technique just to get the business hoping one won’t call their bluff. They pretend they misunderstood the delivery date, time on computer and or say it was another who took order sorry or it’s system down. Whatever it is, it’s systemic.
Shouldn't you have a dust mask on especially doing BRAKES remember safety first .
Thanks Stephen. Good stuff. I changes out the engine oil on my Toro single stage snow thrower. We had some heavy snow last week. Oil changes add some life to the snow thrower.
I wish my truck would stay that rust free! If I don't antiseize contact parts there's no hope for getting them back apart. Yay rust belt....
I love CRC products... for darn sure, but I am not completely sold on PowerStop stuff yet... I had a set that wore out faster than they should have....
I Worked At CRC Products When i Was 14 Years Old Back In The late 60's On The Assembly Line One Summer And It's Still Their in Warminster PA.
you know what makes Stephen a true professional he specifies which country's torque it is. I know someone who accidentally torqued to 2 to 5 ugga duggus french torque and his whole truck fell apart.
Why does Ford use a sliding caliper on a large truck? IMO a 4 or 6 piston caliper should be used. I have seen some SUPER rusty Tacomas and the 4 caliper piston design is one of the best for the rust belt.
Ethan....your fundraiser link does not work. I tried Safari & chrome and got a 404 error.....Jim
Great tips. Only problem I have is the tire lffting tip. It's great if you have good leg strength, but I have arthritis in both knees and some hardware in my hip. All 56 years old.
ANOTHER AWESOME VIDEO.
BACK WHEN I WAS JUST A TEENAGER (40 YEARS OR SO) I USED TO FIX MY VEHICLES OUT OF NECCESSAITY AS I WAS A KID AND MADE MONEY IN TEXAS BY TRAPPING ,I'D USE FINGER NAIL POLISH FOR THREAD LOCKER AS I HAD A FEW SISTERS AND HAD AN ABUNDANCE OF IT.
IT WORKED FINE,ALSO IF I HAD TO COLOR CODE SOMETHING,(LIKE WIRES OR VACUM LINES) SO I KNEW WHERE TO PUT THEM IN THE RIGHT PLACE IT WORKED..
THOUGHT I'D THROW THAT OUT THERE ..I DON'T KNOW IF IT STILL WORKS AS I DON'T MESS WITH SHTUFF ANYMORE .
GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR LOVED ONES
STAY SAFE
GODSPEED
(HOPE THE YOUNG MAN MAKES A TON OF $ FOR HIS CHOIR)
I work a guy that instead of brake caliper grease, he doesn’t tend the lube the clips. That’s just wrong that’s not controversial to me. What is controversial to me is he uses anti seize to lube the guide pins. Y’all can throw your two cents about that under this comment. I disagree because of anti seize containing metal particles I would say it will wear the pins and bracket faster.
Did you find that socket on the bottom calliper bracket bolt before you drove the truck again?
The ol’ pad slap...... There is a 50/50 shot when you have someone else do ur brakes. Bout ready to do mine on the grocery getter. Nice vid..
First I always loosen the bleed valve screw and put a rubber hose on with an old oil bottle. Then I decompress the brake caliper to loosen the pad. It will be a lot easier to move the caliper piston and not break the screwdriver/prybar. This will also prevent pushing grime and dirty brake fluid back up in the lines.
Always have had good luck with Wagner thermo Quiet. Only issues I've had is when incorrectly installed or when installed with subpar rotors
Done.....worked thru link shown below video, not the fundraiser.biz link....thanks! Jim