FAA requirement for safety wire must never be overstressed. Safety wire will break under vibrations if twisted too tightly. Safety wire must be pulled TAUT when being twisted, and maintain a light tension when secured. Reference AC 43.13-1B paragraph 7-124(e)
@@user-zm1vt3rf9b There is a difference from being taut and tight. Reference AC 43.13-1B Ch 7 paragraph 7-124. SAFETY-WIRING PROCEDURES. e. Safety wire must never be overstressed. Safety wire will break under vibrations if twisted too tightly. Safety wire must be pulled taut when being twisted, and maintain a light tension when secured. (See figure 7-3a.) As a DME safety wire is a basic skill and on all oral and practical tests. If you over tighten the wire on a practical test project it is incorrect and will be considered a failed project. The keyword is “taut.”
@@user-zm1vt3rf9b I have an A&P blog for all FAA applicants on Facebook that is open to anyone to help them prepare for the O&P tests at facebook.com/StacheAir/?ref=bookmarks
Thank you so much! I'm doing this for the first time on some racing disc brakes and the other videos I found weren't talking through the process very well but you did. After your video, I'm doing it sort of right. Thanks!
At 2:45 its best to put the wire into the bolt that is coming OVER the twist, meaning the one that if you pull in that direction (towards the bolt) it will tighten the twist. Also, it's best to not have any untwisted wire between the twisted and bolt hole, you've got an 1/8 - 3/16" or so of untwisted wire, that's not good because it leaves only one wire to hold the load not the twist. But other than that, good video. Thanks.
It seems like you could have started the first wire on the far end of the bolt and come around clockwise so that it's tending to tighten it. The way it's done, the first bolt has wire going pretty much strait radially outward, not tending to tighten or loosen.
Thanks for the comment. The objective of safety wiring is to prevent the bolt/nut from loosening. You will note that when wiring the first bolt, there is an slight angle maintaining tension on the bolt as it leads to the second bolt. This tension prevents both bolts from loosening. Were this a wood prop, subject to swelling and shrinkage, this method prevents the bolts from turning when the wood shrinks. BTW, wood props must be re-torqued and safetied every 50 hours or as the manufacturer specifies.
Jordan Stephens - we never get a straight on view to really tell if it is a neutral safety but it's pretty close. If I'm assembling something and end up with a bolt with the safety wire in this position I'll swap a couple of the bolts to avoid the neutral position (and the stink eye from my TI). He could have came from the "back side" of the hole but that can end up being loose around the bolt. Also, if the twisted pair touches the single wire going into the near side hole my TI wouldn't buy it.
@@jenniferrice5098 It actually depends on the wire's thickness. If the wire measure from 0.019 to 0.026 it takes from 9 to 12 twist (per inch distance). If it measure 0.027 to 0.042, its 7 to 10 twist. The more the wire is thick the less you need to twist.
Piece of cake like this. Few days ago I have just done overhaul of piston of tanker ship main engine. I was standing inside engine and twisting securing wire by hand and by normal pliers. It was all slippery from oil, awkward positions, no room and it took me about 1.5 hour to make 6 wires. And that was even good time, other guys where much slower. I wish I had tool like this.
Nice thx. I'd like to see the vid end with the list of checks the inspector makes to ensure correct installation, and a list or examples of common and uncommon failures.
Almost never used anything but .32 thousandths. Funny thing with saftey wire is that you can scrutinize pretty much anyone's work, very subjective. Practice and learning the tricks of the trade help
The saftey wire needs to cover 70 to 80 per cent of the diameter of the bolt hole, that's the choice about .032 or .041 wire and the 7 turns per inch, I have seen alot of unairworthy saftey wire on propellers
John. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work in your application. Depending on the size of the bolt, use at least .032" safety wire due to centrifugal forces. A.J.
Can I suggest you do a small countersink on the holes in the bolt heads? It saves the wire from turning 90 degrees over a sharp edge. Also, you are wiring against bolt rotation, not the propeller rotation. That's how I've always done it anyway.
i get what your saying myself, but i personally have never seen what your suggesting, it has always been a very sharp angle coming right out of the hole, however I have never seen safety wire break on such a location, and i work with safety wire almost daily.
What I would like to know, when the propeller flange is threaded, as in a Lycoming 0320, how much thread do the bolts need to protrude past the threads? Also are nuts required in addition to a threaded flange? Where would I find this information?
@@joecompanion1237 This seems to be the logical answer although this comes mostly from the fiber lock or nylock nuts. AN Bolts do not have enough threads. I have been given a lead on a propeller specific supplier but have not had time to pursue this. I will get it done.
@@peteclark7662 If the answer was in the library of manuals which I own, don’t you believe if I had found the answer there, that I would be seeking the answer here? Please do not insult the efforts of those seeking knowledge from those who might know. I know what I must do but the path I am taking is from common sense rather that the answer spelled out in a mythical manual. I expect this problem is more common than we expect and propellers are being attached , torqued and safety wire by a proper grip of AN bolts with threads not protruding the flange which is safe but illegal. I am not willing to have my build rejected on the day of inspection by a DAR or the FAA, who may or may not know the actual requirement.
I would use one long piece of wire and go around every bolt. That is if its a .25 wire. Something bigger might be more challenging unless it only two bolts.
Thanks Danny. Yes, I am an USAF vet, 63-67, but I was a Cartographic Analyst. Didn't learn to safety wire until I went to A&P school in mid-life. Practice makes perfect.
In case you just arrived on this planet, when you order Shrimp with Lobster Sauce, the sauce does not actually contain lobster as an ingredient: The sauce is just the kind of sauce one would put on lobster. It often contains fermented soybeans.
So safety wire prevent vibration on a bolt or nut so it won’t get loose but why won’t the FAA tell these owners or technicians to use lock tight because lock tight does work good for car industry well I’m not sure cause I’m a car mechanic not air plane but if someone have a answer to this can you please explain to me why safety wire are use and not lock tight
So, the first reason for that is the level of vibration (acceleration and amplitude). It is much more higher than existed in automotives. The second one is criticallity of joints. A lot of joints and connections aboard are safe-life. In other words - you might have a huge problem in case of disconnection, probably with catastrophic result. As you understand, there is no chance to take a stop midair to check if all goes well..
B2 Instructor well I’m automotive we too use safety wires but more like high performance racing engines because of the amount of vibration on exhaust bolts or nut or certain area like rear differential cover but it’s good to know that these safety are made for us humans from panicking
@@taylorseng9918 if you interested about high performance jet engine, check this channel ua-cam.com/users/AgentJayZ. This guy knows all about it. By the way it is another video about safety wire on this channel.
Has anyone ever used safety cable? My company began using it over 15 years ago. So much easier! The down side is cost. Also the ratcheting feral crimper requires periodic calibration. But the ease and time saved is great.
Yes, in theory you could lock them with one piece of wire but, if the AMM (Aircraft Maintenance Manual) tells you to lock them in pairs then that's what you do!
The easiest and cheapest way is to make one. Grab a handful of bolts with safety wire holes and put them through a piece of wood or metal and tighten them down. Then safety wire away.
Al Hodge you’re lockwiring because if one bolt tries to loosen it will be tightening the bolt it is wired to, therefore lockwiring when done correctly prevents bolts from loosening during the vibration stresses an aircraft faces during flight.
He safety wires way differently than we do in the Air Force. His safety wire is a little neutral, but it’ll work. He didn’t do any around the worlds so you know that bitch is loose. He didn’t get close to coming to the hole on the second bolt. And he twisted way too much as he mentioned on his pigtail. Plus he bent his pigtail the wrong way, bending it back the way you came is gonna make it loose.
Thanks folks. And if I can give myself another plug for the pilots out there. I have a website called "Airport Courtesy Cars" on the web at www.airportcourtesycars.com Check it out, it lists over 1,900 courtesy cars nationwide. Will be making more aviation maintenance videos with AJ soon.
p1epoppa they do use then on some places buy you never just rely on torque alone the safety wire is to hold the bolts in there holes so any that do work lose can be corrected at the next 100 hour inspection without getting lost or faking into something they shouldn't
Thanks for the good catch. You have a good point, however AC 43-13-1B, 7-125. TWISTING WITH SPECIAL TOOLS. Twist the wire with a wire twister as follows. (See figure 7-4.) CAUTION: When using wire twisters, and the wire extends 3 inches beyond the jaws of the twisters, loosely wrap the wire around the pliers to prevent whipping and possible personal injury. Excessive twisting of the wire will weaken the wire. a. Grip the wire in the jaws of the wire twister and slide the outer sleeve down with your thumb to lock the handles or lock the spring-loaded pin. b. Pull the knob, and the spiral rod spins and twists the wire. c. Squeeze handles together to release wire. There is no mention within section 7-125 pertaining to tool marks on the wire. In my experience, the minor tool marks created by the safetywire twister do not affect the integrity of the safety wire. Thanks for watching and especially thanks for asking the question. a.j.
Ian Cunningham yea a TI would cut out lockwire if there are marks on it. Not sure what the exact TM,AR,or Da-Pam is for lock wire but any nick in the wire is a no go. But that's army aviation
These are usually drilled from the factory and have a tiny, tiny chamfer on them. I would completely disagree with it being too tight, if anything it looks slightly loose, the requirements say it should be taught and that looks like it will wobble a fair amount.
I think you did the first one poorly. Should have moved over to the next hole. Notice the wire is not able to exert any torque on the bolt head. The other ones you did before the video do. I think its a "do over". And extra sloppy as it is made to instruct others......
I came here because of Adam Savage. Great video, it really demonstrates the concept he was talking about!
waffleman95 already bought one? 😉
As am i
Same man
same
@@erebostd Not yet. I don't have any need for it. But maybe one day.
FAA requirement for safety wire must never be overstressed. Safety wire will break under vibrations if twisted too tightly. Safety wire must be pulled TAUT when being twisted, and maintain a light tension when secured. Reference AC 43.13-1B paragraph 7-124(e)
Correct, a inspector will not accept if not done properly.
When I was in school for my AP, they said it was wrong for us to have ANY slack, so all of our safety wire (in class) was made very very tight. :)
@@user-zm1vt3rf9b There is a difference from being taut and tight.
Reference AC 43.13-1B Ch 7 paragraph 7-124. SAFETY-WIRING PROCEDURES.
e. Safety wire must never be overstressed. Safety wire will break under vibrations if twisted too tightly. Safety wire must be pulled taut when being twisted, and maintain a light tension when secured. (See figure 7-3a.)
As a DME safety wire is a basic skill and on all oral and practical tests. If you over tighten the wire on a practical test project it is incorrect and will be considered a failed project. The keyword is “taut.”
@@user-zm1vt3rf9b I have an A&P blog for all FAA applicants on Facebook that is open to anyone to help them prepare for the O&P tests at facebook.com/StacheAir/?ref=bookmarks
If it’s too loose. Just listen one of the bolts. That’ll make the wire right. Lol
I learned this in the US Air Force as an AGE mechanic 53 years ago. Still comes in handy sometimes.
Makes me hopeful for my future
Forty three years ago I was taught how to safety wire. Somehow, I remember the seven turns. Good instructors I imagine 🙂
Thank you so much! I'm doing this for the first time on some racing disc brakes and the other videos I found weren't talking through the process very well but you did. After your video, I'm doing it sort of right. Thanks!
I'm wiring my race bike for the first time to pass tech inspection for the upcoming AFM season. Thank you!
I’m currently training for my A&P this really helped me thank you so much🏆🤘🏽💯
Aye, I’m working on getting my A&P too
Hey are you still in school for a&p
Just finished my Airframe program and preparing for my O&P
I am glad you added the 7 twists per inch most don't. THANKS
I wish I had the room you had. I did the safety on the B 1900, it was a pain in the ass. But vids like this help with techniques. Thanks 4 posting.
currently a mechanic helper and all we work on is 1900. Learned to love doing the prop safeties !
@@SharkyK6 same as well as other aircrafts we have, safeties so much, it’s a piece of cake now
At 2:45 its best to put the wire into the bolt that is coming OVER the twist, meaning the one that if you pull in that direction (towards the bolt) it will tighten the twist. Also, it's best to not have any untwisted wire between the twisted and bolt hole, you've got an 1/8 - 3/16" or so of untwisted wire, that's not good because it leaves only one wire to hold the load not the twist. But other than that, good video. Thanks.
It seems like you could have started the first wire on the far end of the bolt and come around clockwise so that it's tending to tighten it. The way it's done, the first bolt has wire going pretty much strait radially outward, not tending to tighten or loosen.
Thanks for the comment. The objective of safety wiring is to prevent the bolt/nut from loosening. You will note that when wiring the first bolt, there is an slight angle maintaining tension on the bolt as it leads to the second bolt. This tension prevents both bolts from loosening. Were this a wood prop, subject to swelling and shrinkage, this method prevents the bolts from turning when the wood shrinks. BTW, wood props must be re-torqued and safetied every 50 hours or as the manufacturer specifies.
Jordan Stephens - we never get a straight on view to really tell if it is a neutral safety but it's pretty close. If I'm assembling something and end up with a bolt with the safety wire in this position I'll swap a couple of the bolts to avoid the neutral position (and the stink eye from my TI). He could have came from the "back side" of the hole but that can end up being loose around the bolt. Also, if the twisted pair touches the single wire going into the near side hole my TI wouldn't buy it.
I'm working on my A&P and I'm currently in the usaf we go by 8 to 10 twist an inch ! Is that a serious thing or?
Jennifer Rice I have never had anyone count twists per inch or any of that nonsense. Real time, this is about a 45 second safety wire job
@@jenniferrice5098 It actually depends on the wire's thickness. If the wire measure from 0.019 to 0.026 it takes from 9 to 12 twist (per inch distance). If it measure 0.027 to 0.042, its 7 to 10 twist. The more the wire is thick the less you need to twist.
That is so amazing. I never knew such a type of pliers existed.
i have practical test of safety wires today. thanks
Where's my Tested crowd at?
Good technique 👌 very helpful.
Great video! I want to see more videos like this with AJ
We recently posted 2 more video, check out the channel.
Piece of cake like this. Few days ago I have just done overhaul of piston of tanker ship main engine. I was standing inside engine and twisting securing wire by hand and by normal pliers. It was all slippery from oil, awkward positions, no room and it took me about 1.5 hour to make 6 wires. And that was even good time, other guys where much slower. I wish I had tool like this.
i'll sell you one for $60
Nice thx. I'd like to see the vid end with the list of checks the inspector makes to ensure correct installation, and a list or examples of common and uncommon failures.
Milbar Pliers are industry standard. Get the ones with the cushioned throat. They are amazing.
Thanks for sharing this potentially life saving technique & knowledge on that budd 👍
Almost never used anything but .32 thousandths. Funny thing with saftey wire is that you can scrutinize pretty much anyone's work, very subjective. Practice and learning the tricks of the trade help
The saftey wire needs to cover 70 to 80 per cent of the diameter of the bolt hole, that's the choice about .032 or .041 wire and the 7 turns per inch, I have seen alot of unairworthy saftey wire on propellers
Fantastic, used this info to safety wire my motorcycle.
Excellent demo. Thanks for showing us how to do that.
I use rebar tie wire to build a lot of things hence how I stumbled on this I wonder if this technique can be used on flywheel bolts on a truck?
John. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work in your application. Depending on the size of the bolt, use at least .032" safety wire due to centrifugal forces. A.J.
What A.J. said. Nothing smaller. And not too tight, cause of heavy vibrations.
could unbalance the flywheel and cause vibration....no need for it anyway
Wire sizing. At least 2/3 diameter of bolt hole.
Locktite
IA done the awesome job
need to cancel out background noise
Helped me so much. Beautifully done.
So are those special bolts designed for wire to pass through?
Would it be possible/propper to wire all bolts together as one wiring job or do you have to just do 2 at a time?
@@davidm2645 2 at a time. Thanks for watching.
Nice video exactly how I did back in school
Show us how to do that again on the inboard side of a PT6T9 twin pack fuel nozzle
Cheers
Please use american tools only,but your Twister pliers si Made CHINA,,,,,,
very informative and thorough . Thank you
Is the wire supposed to go against the way the bolt tightens or opposite? 🤔
I don't even own a plane
Maybe you just want a really secure ring gear on your car's differential.
LOL...I don't own a plane either and found the video very informative.
Do you have to be a spy to watch a James Bond movie?
Do you have to be an X-Men to watch an X-Men movie?
Etc.
long time ago ... What was the name of the safety wire pliers? Thanks
Excellent, I'd love to see some examples of when safety wire has prevented potentially fatal equipment failures.
Ever been on a plane. Boom, exhibit a. Nothing happened or fell off. 👍 Job wel done.
Can I suggest you do a small countersink on the holes in the bolt heads? It saves the wire from turning 90 degrees over a sharp edge. Also, you are wiring against bolt rotation, not the propeller rotation. That's how I've always done it anyway.
i get what your saying myself, but i personally have never seen what your suggesting, it has always been a very sharp angle coming right out of the hole, however I have never seen safety wire break on such a location, and i work with safety wire almost daily.
very informative the safety wire done nicely.
"Let it drop to the floor like everything else that we do"
Can you also make a video on how to safety wire the alternator? Please!
Is this so the bolts can't turn themselves out?
Yes
@@gbrasch thanks for the reply. I figured that's what it was for. What a cool concept. Something so simple.
I often would use the pliers to tug on the wire to make it tight and take the kinks out.
One thing that helps is to yank and "snap" it a few times. Particularly good for helping the wire conform to the shape of the bolts.
@@davecrupel2817learned that one from my old man, flick of the wrist 🤙🏽
What I would like to know, when the propeller flange is threaded, as in a Lycoming 0320, how much thread do the bolts need to protrude past the threads? Also are nuts required in addition to a threaded flange? Where would I find this information?
Too bad, no answer to my questions
In school we covered this I believe it’s at least one thread minimum should protrude
@@joecompanion1237 This seems to be the logical answer although this comes mostly from the fiber lock or nylock nuts. AN Bolts do not have enough threads. I have been given a lead on a propeller specific supplier but have not had time to pursue this. I will get it done.
Rowdyflyer, the answer is, look in the manual!
@@peteclark7662 If the answer was in the library of manuals which I own, don’t you believe if I had found the answer there, that I would be seeking the answer here? Please do not insult the efforts of those seeking knowledge from those who might know. I know what I must do but the path I am taking is from common sense rather that the answer spelled out in a mythical manual. I expect this problem is more common than we expect and propellers are being attached , torqued and safety wire by a proper grip of AN bolts with threads not protruding the flange which is safe but illegal. I am not willing to have my build rejected on the day of inspection by a DAR or the FAA, who may or may not know the actual requirement.
Thanks for the education.
Is this before or after you torque them?
After
I would use one long piece of wire and go around every bolt. That is if its a .25 wire. Something bigger might be more challenging unless it only two bolts.
Great video, did this many times in the Air Force. Way too many critics on here, make your own videos if you want to critique. Bunch of QA wanna be's.
How do you ensure that the holes in the bolt and nut line up?
Visually
Great demo video!
I would guess AJ is Air Force Vet. recognise technique from Days in the Air Force back to 69.
Yes he is!
Thanks Danny. Yes, I am an USAF vet, 63-67, but I was a Cartographic Analyst. Didn't learn to safety wire until I went to A&P school in mid-life. Practice makes perfect.
@@a.j.pawlowski156 I'd probably never have to do any safety wires in my life, yet I still watched it out of interest, thank you for this video.
@@a.j.pawlowski156 I'm in A&P school now and this video has helped me immensely. Thank you, sir!
In case you just arrived on this planet, when you order Shrimp with Lobster Sauce, the sauce does not actually contain lobster as an ingredient: The sauce is just the kind of sauce one would put on lobster. It often contains fermented soybeans.
What parts of the aircraft we safetying?
100% on the money. looks good last long time. 41thousand stainless
good job
Por favor podéis traducirlo al Español los wideos gracias gracias lo necesitamos piloto español
Perfect. Great work.
Can you explain how the safteywire works?
It is wired in a way to prevent a bolt from loosening, thanks for looking.
Excellent! thanks for sharing
.041 safety wire is used on most prop bolt heads.
What’s the AWG equivalent?
is this gonna throw the balance off?
It's so close to the center of rotation and so light weight it would have little to no effect on balancing.
So safety wire prevent vibration on a bolt or nut so it won’t get loose but why won’t the FAA tell these owners or technicians to use lock tight because lock tight does work good for car industry well I’m not sure cause I’m a car mechanic not air plane but if someone have a answer to this can you please explain to me why safety wire are use and not lock tight
So, the first reason for that is the level of vibration (acceleration and amplitude). It is much more higher than existed in automotives. The second one is criticallity of joints. A lot of joints and connections aboard are safe-life. In other words - you might have a huge problem in case of disconnection, probably with catastrophic result. As you understand, there is no chance to take a stop midair to check if all goes well..
B2 Instructor ahhhhhhhhhhh makes sense now thanks a lot
B2 Instructor well I’m automotive we too use safety wires but more like high performance racing engines because of the amount of vibration on exhaust bolts or nut or certain area like rear differential cover but it’s good to know that these safety are made for us humans from panicking
@@taylorseng9918 if you interested about high performance jet engine, check this channel ua-cam.com/users/AgentJayZ. This guy knows all about it. By the way it is another video about safety wire on this channel.
Very cool!
This is helpful! (:
Has anyone ever used safety cable? My company began using it over 15 years ago. So much easier! The down side is cost.
Also the ratcheting feral crimper requires periodic calibration. But the ease and time saved is great.
James Robinson yes...in some instances it’s the only way some things can be safetied
Ferrule, not feral.
@@shawbros A yes or no would have been fine! I didn't sign up for a spelling class.
@@justing42 40 years ago safety wire, was all that was available.
@@jamesrobinson5672
"Feral" refers to a wild animal.
what is the name for this type of bolts??
Can you do all 6 bolts with 1 piece of wire?
Theoretically yes but that would be pretty hard with thick gauge wire
@@javajav3004 and it would not symmetrical- and cause an out of balance condition.
Yes, in theory you could lock them with one piece of wire but, if the AMM (Aircraft Maintenance Manual) tells you to lock them in pairs then that's what you do!
@@peteclark7662 oh if thats according to AMM then you should. I thought its a standard practice.
I learned. Thanks!
why isn't Nordlock or similiar things used instead, which what I know, is safer than safety wire right?
Why not use Nord Lock washers?
Then you wouldn't need to wire them??
Good point, will do so in the future!
How come a bolt is used and not a stud with a crown nut?
You mean castle nut?
The hub has the threads, thus the bolts go through prob into the hub.
I believe studs and nuts would be stronger but also double the parts involved and another Failure point
хорошо показано, спасибо за видео
Blyat
Blinn
I want to buy a board where I can practice safety wire and cotter pin. Does anyone have any clue where to find something like that?
The easiest and cheapest way is to make one. Grab a handful of bolts with safety wire holes and put them through a piece of wood or metal and tighten them down. Then safety wire away.
these actually became a meme in the Philippines
Can you elaborate?
interesting. never heard of such a thing. I guess locktite is not enough.
The books are so outdated I’ll be glad when the FAA realizes this
I can't believe you set ANYTHING on a Prop Blade!
Reverseable safety lockwire pliers.
No barrel roll or "seven level twist"?
41 mil?
Thats some thick wire.
Is that the requirement for prop conponents?
Daniel Cannata yes sir, Prop bolts must be safety wired with .041 safety wire
Thanks for education
The purpose of the safety wire is to keep the bolts from turning. Cotter pins would do nothing to stop bolts from turning
Cotter pins are for things like the throttle shaft bolt and the clevasses on a fuel servo.
I was wondering why cotter pins would not do...???
Al Hodge you’re lockwiring because if one bolt tries to loosen it will be tightening the bolt it is wired to, therefore lockwiring when done correctly prevents bolts from loosening during the vibration stresses an aircraft faces during flight.
Cotter pins are used on nuts not bolt heads.
He safety wires way differently than we do in the Air Force. His safety wire is a little neutral, but it’ll work. He didn’t do any around the worlds so you know that bitch is loose. He didn’t get close to coming to the hole on the second bolt. And he twisted way too much as he mentioned on his pigtail. Plus he bent his pigtail the wrong way, bending it back the way you came is gonna make it loose.
Thank you for your input.
Amazing video but from the angle I can see in the video it looks questionable neutral
How to know the diameter of the safety wire?
Ac 43.13 1b- 2b
its marked on the container the wire comes in. unless you measure it with a micrometer, you have to trust the manufacturer.
Thanks folks. And if I can give myself another plug for the pilots out there. I have a website called "Airport Courtesy Cars" on the web at www.airportcourtesycars.com Check it out, it lists over 1,900 courtesy cars nationwide. Will be making more aviation maintenance videos with AJ soon.
Why wouldn't it be safer to use left hand threaded bolts?
p1epoppa they do use then on some places buy you never just rely on torque alone the safety wire is to hold the bolts in there holes so any that do work lose can be corrected at the next 100 hour inspection without getting lost or faking into something they shouldn't
What pliers do you use?
www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/wireTwister1.php?clickkey=3009235
A.J. Pawlowski thanks. decent price too! wonder if I can get them in the UK
I would think that Safety Wire Pliers should be available at most industrial tool supply houses in the UK. Aircraft Spruce may be able to ship.
AWESOME
Thank you!!!!!
Show them how to do it on a Navajo or on a PT-6.
Not quite as easy as this.
i came here because of pacific mike
no marring pliers thought tools marks on the wire was a no no
Thanks for the good catch. You have a good point, however AC 43-13-1B, 7-125. TWISTING WITH SPECIAL TOOLS. Twist the wire with a wire twister as follows. (See figure 7-4.) CAUTION: When using wire twisters, and the wire extends 3 inches beyond the jaws of the twisters, loosely wrap the wire around the pliers to prevent whipping and possible personal injury. Excessive twisting of the wire will weaken the wire. a. Grip the wire in the jaws of the wire twister and slide the outer sleeve down with your thumb to lock the handles or lock the spring-loaded pin. b. Pull the knob, and the spiral rod spins and twists the wire. c. Squeeze handles together to release wire.
There is no mention within section 7-125 pertaining to tool marks on the wire.
In my experience, the minor tool marks created by the safetywire twister do not affect the integrity of the safety wire.
Thanks for watching and especially thanks for asking the question.
a.j.
Ian Cunningham yea a TI would cut out lockwire if there are marks on it. Not sure what the exact TM,AR,or Da-Pam is for lock wire but any nick in the wire is a no go. But that's army aviation
Nobody in the real world cares or examines safety wire for nicks.
the wire holes in the bolts had not been correctly chamfered and the sharp edges will cut the wire! also the tension was far to tight.
These are usually drilled from the factory and have a tiny, tiny chamfer on them. I would completely disagree with it being too tight, if anything it looks slightly loose, the requirements say it should be taught and that looks like it will wobble a fair amount.
Quiero comprar el alicat original.
CIWS TECH watches.... ... * heavy breathing intensifies* ..... very inside joke....
des rondelles éventail ou crower font le même résultats !
Non ua-cam.com/video/IKwWu2w1gGk/v-deo.html
these 2 people have the same voice.
I think you did the first one poorly. Should have moved over to the next hole. Notice the wire is not able to exert any torque on the bolt head. The other ones you did before the video do. I think its a "do over". And extra sloppy as it is made to instruct others......
Drop6 brought me here
Why did AJ make it so loose... could wiggle that wire all day.