Amazed by your equipment saving video. Congratulations from Los Cabos, Mexico. You guided me step by step like a professional. Here in Mexico there´s NO official retailers or someone that do certified maintenances for Hobie equipment. The brand should rewarded you somehow for teaching how to take care of the equipment since the brand staff is not teaching properly for all of us that don´t have certified options near.
Excellent video. Well spoken, nice lighting, no music, and clear-cut stages. I would be comfortable attacking my own ARC 180 system after getting the confidence from this tutorial. Hope you continue doing other videos in the future. I am truly impressed with your skills...and this is from a medical school professor. Thanks.
Mate u made it look sooooo easy😉 followed ur video step by step and took me 3 hours to complete the entire maintenance... great guidelines I'm so grateful and u have earn a sub and will make sure to share it on our group... tnx once again u are a star mate👍👍👍
@@CornishKayakAngler haha... quick one mate! Once service is done do u have the grease coming off after the trip? Mine came off abit and rinsed it with water then applied W40 spray... is tht right? Tnx for the reply bruv!!
Abbas Muhammed yeah any excess grease will work it’s way out after the first few uses, thats normal. Just use a little anti-corrosion spray every few trips on the exposed metal parts to keep it all good. My drive is 2 years old now, and not a sign of rust or corrosion on any of it in over 50 saltwater sessions.
Excellent video. I have a slightly different version of the 180 Mirage, but procedures are almost exactly the same. Easy to follow instructions and my clean and maintenance was much quicker than I expected. See you out on the water sometime.
Thanks Ian, I’m glad you found the process easy to follow. It’s good to know the ins and outs of the drive for easy maintenance and condition checking 👍🏻
Thx I'll certainly check those bearings, i might even just replace drums and bearings. Thx again for your for your reply and a Great learning video! Cliff
very detail video especially the use of types of lubrications. took my careful hands almost 2 hours for the first time to complete, I'm extra careful with the bearings.. one again thumbs up...! (",)
Very helpful video, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Bought a used kayak and drive, I need to maintain the bearings and check to see that they are good. Previous owner didn't know anything about any bearings, so they haven't been maintained / greased.
Couple of things I’d add. The long roller bearings, be careful when attaching the drum. If one pops out it could snap. The chains have 7 links. The centre link goes on the fatter tooth leaving 3 either side. I used some multi wipes, makes for a cleaner job. On the v2 fins, don’t forget the thread lock on the rods. Great video though. Very detailed. Tight lines boys and girls!
Thanks Gio - you are right, the long roller bearings could snap if one jumps out of place when sliding the drum shaft into the drum. Some cleaning wipes are also handy as it can get pretty messy with the grease!
Excellent video, thanks for posting the step by step along with sharing your knowledge of the system. I have the ST drive which will be different but similar enough. Still not sure how much tension to have on the chain drive cables but will figure it out.
Very nice. This gave me the courage to attack the job. It is a tedious but not particularly difficult job. Personal preference but as I reassembled the sprocket assembly I reinstalled the cover with the four screws before attaching the final aft pieces. My drive is not very old but the bearings were pretty dry. Suggest that the drive be inspected for adequate lubricant no later than the end of first season of use. Not sure if Hobie was not using enough lubricant or if lubricant is simply draining out with use. Either way, beware. I am not wild about the screws being used on the covers ...kind of like sheet metal screws...but perhaps necessary given the overall design. I tried to reinstall the cover screws such that they are following the threading of the original assembly process. I started the screws with minimal pressure and let them find the path of least resistance. Not sure what is best, but it seems to me that cross threading the original threads in the covers will cause issues in future maintenance. I did not use grease on the screws. Personal preference, and perhaps I will regret it later.
Nice video. I'm going to have my wife video me as I go forth, as well. Seems like the biggest challenge will be keeping all the different screws and roller bearings separated and knowing where they came from. So much for the WD-40 maintenance. How often do you recommend doing this for fresh and saltwater respectively?
Ive got mirage drive only been out twice but yer good. Only thing is ive got long levers an it just seems a short thro, before goin back. Prob a reason for this just seems bit of leg movement wasted. But yes liked it was quiet n got me round sweet as. Thanks
nice vid man. I have a slightly different version, but yeah, your vid definitely helped me out with my first maintenance. Do you pack your bottom series of bearing full of grease? I keep hearing mixed advice on this. One side of the fence says, use very little grease/ lube on the bottom most bearings (touting that sand and grit will attract and hold sand and grit). Others will state, "Lube em' up good!" Wondering what you have experienced. I suppose you have about 2+ years of maintenance on your drive, so what have you found? Thanks again for the time that you took to create and post this video.
Hi Brandon, thanks for the comment! Yeah there have been a few different versions of the mirage drive released since this vid but the basics are still the same. I’m on the side of grease them up, but I will say that I remove my drive from the kayak and lay it in the footwell when launching and coming into land every time, this minimises the amount of sand and grit finding it’s way to the drive. If you are someone who beaches with the drive in place then the sand can find its way into the drive and get stuck in the grit. This may cause more wear than usual and in such a case no lube would better to let the water flush everything through. Hope that helps!
Great video, i learned alot i think. My drums are awfully loose on the shaft, i bought the drive used. It seems to be worn around the shaft, both drums are very sloppy. I know its hard to figure it out without seeing them, but should i replace both drums and bearings? Again thx for the excellent video and your time Cliff
Thanks! It may just be the bearings that are worn, or you could even have one missing. Worth checking. It’s more likely to be that over the drums themselves. Worth checking the tension in the chains and idler cable as the slacker these are then more the drums can slide about on the drum shaft. Don’t overtighten them though, you still need a touch of play in the cables and the drive to feel fairly free to move without resistance.
You can get the bearings separately from a Hobie dealer (they may have to order them in), although make sure the bearing housing is not worn and causing the bearings to wear away. If the housing is worn then it’s best to get a whole new spine assembly (which includes a full set of bearings)
@@CornishKayakAngler my dealer doesn't want to do this, I did it differently, I bought a rod made of delrin, 6.3 mm in diameter, and cut it to size, that is, 12 mm, so far everything works fine
Do you know how to replace the rev and fwd pull cords going through to the spine? The ones going to the pulleys. I had one snapped off. If so what cord and size?
The Mirage Drive works by stepping alternately on the pedals to drive fins side to side under the kayak. As the fins sweep through the water they twist and push against the water, which in turn pulls the kayak through the water (propulsion). This works in a very similar way to how a bird uses its wings to fly through the air, or more specially how a penguin uses its wings to swim underwater.
Thank you for the video. My question is, the fins are they suppose to have that much Flex in them? I noticed that they move from side to side very easily on yours. My 180 drive is second hand and the fins are really stiff. Should they have a lot of flex or stiffness?
Stiffness within the fin itself or stiffness when trying to move side to side? The fin itself is a flexible rubber that will twist and flex in the water with each pedal stroke. The side to side movement shouldn’t have too much resistance when done in air. If yours is tight then slacken the chains and idler cable just a touch until it eases up. Just back off the nuts half a turn at a time.
Hi very nice and useful video thanks a lot for sharing it! I have a question, after the maintenance I ve got quite a lot of play between the pedals. If I try to wide the pedals with my hands they move quite a lot. Is it normal? Is there a way to reduce this ? Thanks a lot!
Hi Guido, thanks for the comment. Try tightening the chains a touch more, this should reduce any side to side movement on the pedal drums. Just go half a turn on the nuts at a time evenly between them all and see if this improves it. Hope this helps!
@@CornishKayakAngler thanks a lot for your reply! I did try to tighten the nuts… it is better however pulling away the pedals I still get over 1 cm movement which seems to me a lot more than before… do you the no it is normal?
Really useful video. Quick question - how do you maintain the drive after each trip? Do you hose it down to get the salt off or is there more to it? Any top tips? Thanks
Thanks Colin. I rinse down in freshwater after each use in saltwater. Every few trips I just give the exposed metal parts a wipe down with a rag soaked in Corrosion Block / ACF-50 (any corrosion inhibiting spray would do and stops salt from sitting on the metal surface). Apart from fish scales and some dirt, my drives look close to new even after several years of regular use. Something is bound to give out at some point but it won’t be through lack of preventative maintenance!
A little bit of movement is normal, but yes tighten the drum bolts and that seems to reduce the flex. I nip mine up a quarter turn every so often. I think the action of pedalling causes them to back out ever so slightly over time. Give it a go and see how you get on!
Can some one give me the dimensions of the drive please,brought a kayak without the peddal system and want to make sure it fits.it doesn't help thst my kayak is unbranded.
These are preset at the factory and it’s difficult to replace the cables alone. If you have broken a cable then you will need to buy a complete new Spine Assembly. Depending on the model you will need either the MD180 V2 Spine Assy or the MD180 V2 Kick Up Spine Assy.
You can only get the full spine assembly. The sprockets on the MD180 have the fwd/rev cords running through them and these are preset at factory so not possible to buy just the sprockets for the MD180. If you need to replace a sprocket you will need the buy the following - ‘SPINE ASSY V2 MD180 - 81527002’ - unfortunately they are not cheap!
I tend to run mine more slack than tight. I think it helps minimise wear on the sprockets. There must be around 4mm of deflection on the cables when pinched in firmly. If it feels tight just slacken it off a bit, you’ll notice if things get too loose as there will be excessive side movement in the drums. A few millimetres of movement goes unnoticed during use though. Hope this helps!
Yes, there is a cap on the outside of the pedal, use a small flat head screwdriver to pull this out and it gives you access to a nut which holds the pedal on. You’ll need a socket set to remove as its recessed. Undo this and you can pull the pedal off to re-grease 😀
Is it possible to take out the metal shafts holding the fins? Couldn't watch the entire video. My nephew bent the metal shaft. Def needs to be replaced 😔
sengx Yeah you can remove the masts fairly easily. It depends what version drive you have but essentially you either have to remove a Clevis pin held on by a small spilt ring for V1, V2, GT and MD180 V2 drives to then slide off the fin to reveal the metal mast. You then unscrew the mast from the sprocket above using pliers on the flattened section of mast - this can be difficult and may require a vice as the threads are held in with loctite. You can either straighten the mast in a vice or get a replacement one from a dealer. MD180 V1 fins are slightly different to remove as you have to unscrew the fin tensioner using a hex key as shown in this video at 16:14. Hope that helps!
Cornish Kayak Angler I have the MD180 V2, we tried using a flat head screw driver to unscrew that one section, but wouldn't budge. :/.... do i have to loosen all the other screws on the sprocket first?
sengx Nope, once you undo the split ring from the clevis pin, you can slide the pin out to then allow the fin to be removed from the mast. The mast is screwed into the brass insert in the boom above. You will have to get a good set of pliers on the flattened section towards the end of the mast and apply plenty of force to break the loctite on the threads, you can then continue screwing the mast until it the mast comes free. You shouldn’t need to use any screw driver or undo any screws on the sprockets
paintfly2 there’s no fun in me doing it for you! It’s good to take it apart and understand how the drive works and the parts involved, incase you ever need to replace a part. Glad you’re enjoying the 13 mate, you won’t look back now!
Seen your channel in the "Recommended" list so I thought I would come and check you out. You have my support! I like what you are doing. If you get a chance to come check us out I would Really appreciate it! thanks in advance and Keep up the good work!
Really thorough... But you can definitely top off the grease without tearing the whole drive apart... And the "grime" is so minimal... In comparison to a bicycle chain and gear drive. I guess if you have this much time to blow go for it... For me tho I'm just gonna top the grease off once a year. 30 seconds per drive lol
As usual great video very clear explanation and I'm going to services my drives myself now, Thanks
I'm Brazilian and passionate about kayaks, man,,, your tips will help a lot of people,,,, you gained another follower, congratulations young man
Helped me TREMENDOUSLY! Thanx so much for posting this. I've never subscribed to anybody. You will be my first.
Thanks Melinda 🙏🏻 glad you found the video useful 😀
Amazed by your equipment saving video. Congratulations from Los Cabos, Mexico. You guided me step by step like a professional.
Here in Mexico there´s NO official retailers or someone that do certified maintenances for Hobie equipment. The brand should rewarded you somehow for teaching how to take care of the equipment since the brand staff is not teaching properly for all of us that don´t have certified options near.
Best maintenance video I’ve seen , thanks
Excellent video. Well spoken, nice lighting, no music, and clear-cut stages. I would be comfortable attacking my own ARC 180 system after getting the confidence from this tutorial. Hope you continue doing other videos in the future. I am truly impressed with your skills...and this is from a medical school professor. Thanks.
Mate u made it look sooooo easy😉 followed ur video step by step and took me 3 hours to complete the entire maintenance... great guidelines I'm so grateful and u have earn a sub and will make sure to share it on our group... tnx once again u are a star mate👍👍👍
Abbas Muhammed thanks for the comment and thanks for subscribing 😊 that reminds me... it’s time to service my drive again!
@@CornishKayakAngler haha... quick one mate! Once service is done do u have the grease coming off after the trip? Mine came off abit and rinsed it with water then applied W40 spray... is tht right? Tnx for the reply bruv!!
Abbas Muhammed yeah any excess grease will work it’s way out after the first few uses, thats normal. Just use a little anti-corrosion spray every few trips on the exposed metal parts to keep it all good. My drive is 2 years old now, and not a sign of rust or corrosion on any of it in over 50 saltwater sessions.
Just bought a 2019 PA 14 and this video is awesome and I will go back to it when its time to service the drive.
Really great video! Thanks for sharing this. Took me about 1.5 hours to maintain my 180MD today. Feels like its brand new.
Thanks for the comment. Glad you found the video useful!
Excellent and detailed video on on the mirage drive and how to service it I learned a lot from this video about my drive again excellent video
Great in-depth video. Well Done!
Thanks Walter, I hope the video helped 😀
Fantastic video. Loved the great references to the parts by their proper names and the attention to detail. Thank you!
Excellent video. I have a slightly different version of the 180 Mirage, but procedures are almost exactly the same. Easy to follow instructions and my clean and maintenance was much quicker than I expected. See you out on the water sometime.
Thanks Ian, I’m glad you found the process easy to follow. It’s good to know the ins and outs of the drive for easy maintenance and condition checking 👍🏻
Thx I'll certainly check those bearings, i might even just replace drums and bearings.
Thx again for your for your reply and a Great learning video!
Cliff
very detail video especially the use of types of lubrications.
took my careful hands almost 2 hours for the first time to complete, I'm extra careful with the bearings..
one again thumbs up...! (",)
Thank you for an exceptional instruction video. You are an excellent instructor !! 👍👍👍
Perfect for what I’m needling to do to my drive.
Fantastic video, thank you, I might have the courage to do this to my 2020 180 mirage drive
Very helpful video, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Bought a used kayak and drive, I need to maintain the bearings and check to see that they are good. Previous owner didn't know anything about any bearings, so they haven't been maintained / greased.
Great video, I was able to do this thanks to your video
Acabo de limpiar y engrasar perfectamente mi mirage 180 con tu tutorial, también le pongo la misma grasa, muchisimas gracias.
Couple of things I’d add. The long roller bearings, be careful when attaching the drum. If one pops out it could snap. The chains have 7 links. The centre link goes on the fatter tooth leaving 3 either side. I used some multi wipes, makes for a cleaner job. On the v2 fins, don’t forget the thread lock on the rods.
Great video though. Very detailed. Tight lines boys and girls!
Thanks Gio - you are right, the long roller bearings could snap if one jumps out of place when sliding the drum shaft into the drum. Some cleaning wipes are also handy as it can get pretty messy with the grease!
Outstanding. Thank you.
Thanks Kevin, hope the video proved helpful 😀
Great video, very helpful. Thank you
Thanks Billy, great to hear that you found the video useful 😀
Thank you from Germany Bro
Gran video, enhorabuena y muchas gracias. Saludos.
Excellent video, thanks for posting the step by step along with sharing your knowledge of the system. I have the ST drive which will be different but similar enough. Still not sure how much tension to have on the chain drive cables but will figure it out.
Very informative video! Many thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Very nice. This gave me the courage to attack the job. It is a tedious but not particularly difficult job. Personal preference but as I reassembled the sprocket assembly I reinstalled the cover with the four screws before attaching the final aft pieces.
My drive is not very old but the bearings were pretty dry. Suggest that the drive be inspected for adequate lubricant no later than the end of first season of use. Not sure if Hobie was not using enough lubricant or if lubricant is simply draining out with use. Either way, beware.
I am not wild about the screws being used on the covers ...kind of like sheet metal screws...but perhaps necessary given the overall design. I tried to reinstall the cover screws such that they are following the threading of the original assembly process. I started the screws with minimal pressure and let them find the path of least resistance. Not sure what is best, but it seems to me that cross threading the original threads in the covers will cause issues in future maintenance. I did not use grease on the screws. Personal preference, and perhaps I will regret it later.
Very good instruction video.
Very helpful thanks for sharing
Amazing video man thank you very much for the info, and those bearings are the same size.?
Nice video. I'm going to have my wife video me as I go forth, as well. Seems like the biggest challenge will be keeping all the different screws and roller bearings separated and knowing where they came from. So much for the WD-40 maintenance. How often do you recommend doing this for fresh and saltwater respectively?
Thank you
Ive got mirage drive only been out twice but yer good. Only thing is ive got long levers an it just seems a short thro, before goin back. Prob a reason for this just seems bit of leg movement wasted. But yes liked it was quiet n got me round sweet as. Thanks
Easier said then done not sure I’d do my own without having your knowledge
Awesome video I'm scared to take my mirage drive apart incase I break something 🤤
nice vid man. I have a slightly different version, but yeah, your vid definitely helped me out with my first maintenance. Do you pack your bottom series of bearing full of grease? I keep hearing mixed advice on this. One side of the fence says, use very little grease/ lube on the bottom most bearings (touting that sand and grit will attract and hold sand and grit). Others will state, "Lube em' up good!" Wondering what you have experienced. I suppose you have about 2+ years of maintenance on your drive, so what have you found? Thanks again for the time that you took to create and post this video.
Hi Brandon, thanks for the comment! Yeah there have been a few different versions of the mirage drive released since this vid but the basics are still the same. I’m on the side of grease them up, but I will say that I remove my drive from the kayak and lay it in the footwell when launching and coming into land every time, this minimises the amount of sand and grit finding it’s way to the drive. If you are someone who beaches with the drive in place then the sand can find its way into the drive and get stuck in the grit. This may cause more wear than usual and in such a case no lube would better to let the water flush everything through. Hope that helps!
Great video, but do you have one that repairs the cords that swivel the fins from forward to reverse. Any info would help
Great video, i learned alot i think. My drums are awfully loose on the shaft, i bought the drive used. It seems to be worn around the shaft, both drums are very sloppy. I know its hard to figure it out without seeing them, but should i replace both drums and bearings?
Again thx for the excellent video and your time
Cliff
Thanks! It may just be the bearings that are worn, or you could even have one missing. Worth checking. It’s more likely to be that over the drums themselves. Worth checking the tension in the chains and idler cable as the slacker these are then more the drums can slide about on the drum shaft. Don’t overtighten them though, you still need a touch of play in the cables and the drive to feel fairly free to move without resistance.
good job
27:15 when I took this unit apart, my black plastics were broken for the bearing. You can buy them separately or just the whole unit as a whole?
You can get the bearings separately from a Hobie dealer (they may have to order them in), although make sure the bearing housing is not worn and causing the bearings to wear away. If the housing is worn then it’s best to get a whole new spine assembly (which includes a full set of bearings)
@@CornishKayakAngler my dealer doesn't want to do this, I did it differently, I bought a rod made of delrin, 6.3 mm in diameter, and cut it to size, that is, 12 mm, so far everything works fine
Do you know how to replace the rev and fwd pull cords going through to the spine? The ones going to the pulleys. I had one snapped off. If so what cord and size?
I have the turbo kick up fins that came on the drive of my 2020 outback. I wonder if anything really changes with the teardown?
Thanks for the video! By the way, is it possible to explain (so that a child could understand), how the mechanism works?
The Mirage Drive works by stepping alternately on the pedals to drive fins side to side under the kayak. As the fins sweep through the water they twist and push against the water, which in turn pulls the kayak through the water (propulsion). This works in a very similar way to how a bird uses its wings to fly through the air, or more specially how a penguin uses its wings to swim underwater.
My reverse and forward jammed up can you make video how to fix problem
Mine won't go in reverse. Hope to learn from this video!
Thank you for the video. My question is, the fins are they suppose to have that much Flex in them? I noticed that they move from side to side very easily on yours. My 180 drive is second hand and the fins are really stiff. Should they have a lot of flex or stiffness?
Stiffness within the fin itself or stiffness when trying to move side to side? The fin itself is a flexible rubber that will twist and flex in the water with each pedal stroke. The side to side movement shouldn’t have too much resistance when done in air. If yours is tight then slacken the chains and idler cable just a touch until it eases up. Just back off the nuts half a turn at a time.
@@CornishKayakAngler Thank you so much.
Hi very nice and useful video thanks a lot for sharing it! I have a question, after the maintenance I ve got quite a lot of play between the pedals. If I try to wide the pedals with my hands they move quite a lot. Is it normal? Is there a way to reduce this ? Thanks a lot!
Hi Guido, thanks for the comment. Try tightening the chains a touch more, this should reduce any side to side movement on the pedal drums. Just go half a turn on the nuts at a time evenly between them all and see if this improves it. Hope this helps!
@@CornishKayakAngler thanks a lot for your reply! I did try to tighten the nuts… it is better however pulling away the pedals I still get over 1 cm movement which seems to me a lot more than before… do you the no it is normal?
Really useful video. Quick question - how do you maintain the drive after each trip? Do you hose it down to get the salt off or is there more to it? Any top tips? Thanks
Thanks Colin. I rinse down in freshwater after each use in saltwater. Every few trips I just give the exposed metal parts a wipe down with a rag soaked in Corrosion Block / ACF-50 (any corrosion inhibiting spray would do and stops salt from sitting on the metal surface). Apart from fish scales and some dirt, my drives look close to new even after several years of regular use. Something is bound to give out at some point but it won’t be through lack of preventative maintenance!
@@CornishKayakAngler Thanks a lot dude. Going out tomorrow for the first time since this lockdown (N Wales). Tight lines!
What great do you use for the bearings?
Editing in the video, the pulley was installed on one side and then appears on the other side. Which is the right side of the pulley
Hey got a question about the mirage drive crank arms. Mine have some flex on them is that normal? Or should I tighten the bolts on both sides?
A little bit of movement is normal, but yes tighten the drum bolts and that seems to reduce the flex. I nip mine up a quarter turn every so often. I think the action of pedalling causes them to back out ever so slightly over time. Give it a go and see how you get on!
Can some one give me the dimensions of the drive please,brought a kayak without the peddal system and want to make sure it fits.it doesn't help thst my kayak is unbranded.
How do I replace the cables running through the spine that operate the 180 drive?
These are preset at the factory and it’s difficult to replace the cables alone. If you have broken a cable then you will need to buy a complete new Spine Assembly. Depending on the model you will need either the MD180 V2 Spine Assy or the MD180 V2 Kick Up Spine Assy.
Can u buy the sprocket part for this drive? I ordered one, but it's not even the one for it, hobie dealer gave me the part number for it too.
You can only get the full spine assembly. The sprockets on the MD180 have the fwd/rev cords running through them and these are preset at factory so not possible to buy just the sprockets for the MD180. If you need to replace a sprocket you will need the buy the following - ‘SPINE ASSY V2 MD180 - 81527002’ - unfortunately they are not cheap!
👍👍👍
how much tension is enough for the cables? side to side slack of 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", or 1mm, 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm...?
I tend to run mine more slack than tight. I think it helps minimise wear on the sprockets. There must be around 4mm of deflection on the cables when pinched in firmly. If it feels tight just slacken it off a bit, you’ll notice if things get too loose as there will be excessive side movement in the drums. A few millimetres of movement goes unnoticed during use though. Hope this helps!
@@CornishKayakAngler thank you, good to know, my 23 drive shipped very tight from the factory and I felt something was wrong
Sorry was a dumb comment cos fins cant go further than hit hull. Still rekon could be a way get bit more. Cheers
Do the actual pedals unscrew and come off the pedal shaft to allow greasing?
Yes, there is a cap on the outside of the pedal, use a small flat head screwdriver to pull this out and it gives you access to a nut which holds the pedal on. You’ll need a socket set to remove as its recessed. Undo this and you can pull the pedal off to re-grease 😀
@@CornishKayakAngler thank you! Will do
Is it possible to take out the metal shafts holding the fins? Couldn't watch the entire video. My nephew bent the metal shaft. Def needs to be replaced 😔
sengx Yeah you can remove the masts fairly easily. It depends what version drive you have but essentially you either have to remove a Clevis pin held on by a small spilt ring for V1, V2, GT and MD180 V2 drives to then slide off the fin to reveal the metal mast. You then unscrew the mast from the sprocket above using pliers on the flattened section of mast - this can be difficult and may require a vice as the threads are held in with loctite. You can either straighten the mast in a vice or get a replacement one from a dealer. MD180 V1 fins are slightly different to remove as you have to unscrew the fin tensioner using a hex key as shown in this video at 16:14. Hope that helps!
Cornish Kayak Angler I have the MD180 V2, we tried using a flat head screw driver to unscrew that one section, but wouldn't budge. :/.... do i have to loosen all the other screws on the sprocket first?
sengx Nope, once you undo the split ring from the clevis pin, you can slide the pin out to then allow the fin to be removed from the mast. The mast is screwed into the brass insert in the boom above. You will have to get a good set of pliers on the flattened section towards the end of the mast and apply plenty of force to break the loctite on the threads, you can then continue screwing the mast until it the mast comes free. You shouldn’t need to use any screw driver or undo any screws on the sprockets
Cornish Kayak Angler ah, okay I see what you mean. Thanks a bunch! Definitely helps! Just subbed and liked!
Great video Liam. Lovin my 13. How much do you charge to do this for me & my lazy arse haha
paintfly2 there’s no fun in me doing it for you! It’s good to take it apart and understand how the drive works and the parts involved, incase you ever need to replace a part. Glad you’re enjoying the 13 mate, you won’t look back now!
Yeah, but I was born with 10 thumbs :-)
Nice mine broke for not maintaining it
Seen your channel in the "Recommended" list so I thought I would come and check you out. You have my support! I like what you are doing. If you get a chance to come check us out I would Really appreciate it! thanks in advance and Keep up the good work!
Really thorough... But you can definitely top off the grease without tearing the whole drive apart... And the "grime" is so minimal... In comparison to a bicycle chain and gear drive. I guess if you have this much time to blow go for it... For me tho I'm just gonna top the grease off once a year. 30 seconds per drive lol
i cant hear anything! you need a mic bud