Jon Can Be Reached at : Email: jon@mysolarhome.us Telephone: 609-908-3700 text or call Website: mysolarhome.us Nationwide Solar and Battery Installations
Quite a good summary. Usually I find all sorts of problems with these sorts of videos but yours did a great job. I would recommend a somewhat different panel and charge controller configuration, but that's pretty much it. For the panel and charge controller configuration, don't use a parallel combiner at all. Parallel combiners such as the ones depicted in the video are actually fire hazards. Instead, use TWO Victron 150/35 charge controllers, each with one string of three panels going into it (well, assuming the string VOC is < 150V anyway). In addition, I would install a combiner box for each string (two combiner boxes, total).. .even though you aren't combining anything. The reasons for doing this are as follows: * You want at least two charge controllers for redundancy. If something breaks, you don't want to be left with now solar at all. * The lower amps from each charge controller makes wiring a whole lot easier. * The use of a combiner box both gives you expansion options later on and also gives you a convenient disconnect (the breaker in the combiner box) as well as fusing and a surge protection. So its good to have combiner boxes (two in this case) even if there is only one string going into each one. You already have some battery redundancy, which is great... a lot of people forget that but it is critical. The only thing left is the inverter. For the inverter: * I'd recommend a minimum of two inverters, for the same reason. Gives you redundancy in case you blow one up. But you can also do some cool things with two inverters, such as split the loads that might involve surges from all the other loads which just run regular house-hold non-inductive devices. This way the surges won't stress the other devices or the other inverter. * Consider a Victron Multiplus-II 48V. They come in a 3kW and 5kW model. Unfortunately only a single phase output but that's the way the cookie crumbles. The reason is the low idle power (about 12W for the 3000W version) and strong robustness. So like one of those plus one "junk" inverter, or just go straight to two multplus-II's. Low idle consumption is worth its weight in gold. -Matt
Thank you very much. Your recommendations are spot on and in my future videos I will surely incorporate those suggestions. And thank you for those kind words - I try hard to make sure I give good information and it is good to get validation from an expert practitioner. Happy Memorial Day.
Jon Can Be Reached at :
Email: jon@mysolarhome.us
Telephone: 609-908-3700 text or call
Website: mysolarhome.us
Nationwide Solar and Battery Installations
great job. Just what I wanted. Thank you.
Thank you very much. Please do let me know if you are looking for any other videos that I could work on next.
thank you, straight forward and right to the point...you sir are my new youtube best friend...i subscribed.
Thank you Thank you. I will try my best to keep making useful vids. Do send me suggestion on new video ideas to pursue. Happy Memorial Day.
Quite a good summary. Usually I find all sorts of problems with these sorts of videos but yours did a great job. I would recommend a somewhat different panel and charge controller configuration, but that's pretty much it.
For the panel and charge controller configuration, don't use a parallel combiner at all. Parallel combiners such as the ones depicted in the video are actually fire hazards. Instead, use TWO Victron 150/35 charge controllers, each with one string of three panels going into it (well, assuming the string VOC is < 150V anyway). In addition, I would install a combiner box for each string (two combiner boxes, total).. .even though you aren't combining anything.
The reasons for doing this are as follows:
* You want at least two charge controllers for redundancy. If something breaks, you don't want to be left with now solar at all.
* The lower amps from each charge controller makes wiring a whole lot easier.
* The use of a combiner box both gives you expansion options later on and also gives you a convenient disconnect (the breaker in the combiner box) as well as fusing and a surge protection. So its good to have combiner boxes (two in this case) even if there is only one string going into each one.
You already have some battery redundancy, which is great... a lot of people forget that but it is critical. The only thing left is the inverter. For the inverter:
* I'd recommend a minimum of two inverters, for the same reason. Gives you redundancy in case you blow one up. But you can also do some cool things with two inverters, such as split the loads that might involve surges from all the other loads which just run regular house-hold non-inductive devices. This way the surges won't stress the other devices or the other inverter.
* Consider a Victron Multiplus-II 48V. They come in a 3kW and 5kW model. Unfortunately only a single phase output but that's the way the cookie crumbles. The reason is the low idle power (about 12W for the 3000W version) and strong robustness. So like one of those plus one "junk" inverter, or just go straight to two multplus-II's. Low idle consumption is worth its weight in gold.
-Matt
Thank you very much. Your recommendations are spot on and in my future videos I will surely incorporate those suggestions. And thank you for those kind words - I try hard to make sure I give good information and it is good to get validation from an expert practitioner. Happy Memorial Day.
Excellent
Thank you very much. Do let me know if you have any suggestions for my next videos.
Great video, thank you
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.