I really don’t understand how can some people dislike this video or any of the videos in this series. Anyhow, this is unbelievably helpful, can’t thank you enough.
That plate frame is ideal for when doing crack repairs too. I made mine from three sheets of Perspex glued together, but with cutouts for plate clamps positions.
Hello. Many thanks to you for your video. You are explaining very well and I'm using your valuable instructions to build my first violin. I just finished today the body and I'm about to start with the neck. To me it looks like much more difficult to do. I will see... Thanks again.
I don't build or play the violin, but watch all I can find on the subject. I have always been fascinated by the instrument, the wood, and the tools it takes to build a fine one. I've binge watched all 12 episodes and can't wait for future segments.
ive watched these violin scroll videos like 50 times. I got a nice piece of mango wood that im going to me a scroll out of to use for a knife handle. please dont hate me!!
Thank you for another informative and entertaining video, Meastro-Kimon. Your craftsmanship is superb. Would you tell me again please what wood it is you are using for the neck/scroll of the violin? Thank you.
Thank you for your kind words! For the scroll as for the back and ribs I use maple and for the top I use spruce. check www.riwoods.com if you want to buy wood!
Please show the grain orientation more clearly in the next video. I am looking forward to the plate tuning video. Other makers videos depict plate tuning as esoteric magic or high tech resonance engineering. Thank you for your thoughtful and practical instruction.
Thank you so much for your kind words. The grain of the wood is parallel to the plane of the fingerboard. I will show it also in the next video, just to be sure! Tuning the blades is definitely not magic but is't very easy either! We will see soon!!
Hello maestro and thank you for your priceless lessons. Im working with the same mould as you do and i can see that the neck mould is longer in few millimeters than most of the mould and every mould in that model of stradivari. So before im starting the neck I wanted to ask you is there a mistake in the mould?
Hi. I have watched all of this series and re-watched many episodes many times, and I think they're full of great tips and information. Thank you very much! However, there is one thing that I have been very confused about. The little notch on the scroll template... Why is it there? You said that you would explain it later on, but I don't think you've said it yet? I've finally started my first violin about a week ago, so now I'd really like to know why it's there. I've seen it many places, but never found an explanation on it...
Thank you very much for watching and your kind words. The notch has to do with the fingerboard, I will explain it as soon as it is time to glue the fingerboard on its place.
Thanks for replying :-) Okay, I was just a little too impatient then. I hope that the video comes out before I'm finished, but if not, there's always the next violin. I'm a cellist, but I have been restoring violins and one cello for a couple of years now. I decided to build one or two violins as practice before building a cello. Do you have any tips on how the cello might be different to do?
The main difference is that a cello is bigger, so there is more work to do. Also as the violin is smaller there are more smal details. But I think that it is a good idea to make first a violin and then a cello. Good luck!
Thank you for your kind words Kostas. I bought mine in Cremona when I was studying there but you can buy purfling at www.dictum.com . I don't know if you can buy it in Athens.
I would never tell anyone to use a jigsaw for this cut, this piece is hard and thick and the curves are tight, the jigsaw would bounce,split and cut off square Without bandsaw i think a frame turning handsaw or a coping saw are the best, very tiring but precise enough
@george george Also, Simone, similar to mounting a router under a fenced table to create a shaper, you can mount a jigsaw under a sturdy table with the blade pointing up. In this way you can use two hands to maneuver the work. Not as precise as a scroll-saw or a band-saw, but good enough for rough cutting when proper speed and blade are selected.
I really don’t understand how can some people dislike this video or any of the videos in this series. Anyhow, this is unbelievably helpful, can’t thank you enough.
Thank you for your kind words! I also don't understand what they don't like but every one is free to have an opinion.
That plate frame is ideal for when doing crack repairs too. I made mine from three sheets of Perspex glued together, but with cutouts for plate clamps positions.
This is a great series! Do you ever think you'll do a Making a Cello series?
Thank you for making this series. It is a joy to watch, so keep up the good work!
Thank you for your kind words! More coming soon!
Hello. Many thanks to you for your video. You are explaining very well and I'm using your valuable instructions to build my first violin. I just finished today the body and I'm about to start with the neck. To me it looks like much more difficult to do. I will see... Thanks again.
I don't build or play the violin, but watch all I can find on the subject. I have always been fascinated by the instrument, the wood, and the tools it takes to build a fine one. I've binge watched all 12 episodes and can't wait for future segments.
Thank you very much for your kind words!
by far my favorite video in the series, you're an inspiration Maestro :)
Thank you, good to hear!
I agree with Stanley. I don't play or make instruments either, but the craftsmanship is amazing and your methods interesting. Thank you.
Thank you for your kind comment!
I am looking forward to see how you shape the eye! I love this series. I don’t play nor do I make violins but the craftsmanship is amazing.
Thank you so much for your kind words Stanley! Also nice to hear that people also look even if they aren't making or playing an instrument.
Thanks!
Thank you for another great video, Maestro. Looking forward to the next one!
Thank you for your kind words! Don't forget to subscribe so you wont miss the upcoming videos!
Thanks maestro for another super informative video in this series. You have a great channel. Keep it up.
Thank you so much for your kind words!!!
Belíssima didática. Muito interessante.
Thank you so much!
ive watched these violin scroll videos like 50 times. I got a nice piece of mango wood that im going to me a scroll out of to use for a knife handle. please dont hate me!!
Creativity has no limits, Ben!
Great fun
Love the channel
Thank you!!!
A good tutorial
Good to hear!
Top top maravilha
Thank you for another informative and entertaining video, Meastro-Kimon. Your craftsmanship is superb. Would you tell me again please what wood it is you are using for the neck/scroll of the violin? Thank you.
Thank you for your kind words! For the scroll as for the back and ribs I use maple and for the top I use spruce. check www.riwoods.com if you want to buy wood!
Please show the grain orientation more clearly in the next video. I am looking forward to the plate tuning video. Other makers videos depict plate tuning as esoteric magic or high tech resonance engineering. Thank you for your thoughtful and practical instruction.
Where can I buy the same set of templates?
Thank you so much for your kind words. The grain of the wood is parallel to the plane of the fingerboard. I will show it also in the next video, just to be sure! Tuning the blades is definitely not magic but is't very easy either! We will see soon!!
Does the shape of the scroll affect the sound, or is it just for decorating purpose?
I does affect the sound, everything does!
i have the template without the gap !!! what have i to do after placing it 1 mm below the wood block?
Take a look to the following videos that are already online! You can see the hole process!
@@maestrokimon thanks
@@maestrokimon i can t find the video
Here you can find the playlist of the Series: ua-cam.com/play/PLy6vkduAqRo_V28Y9MNpixcYpmdYeg8HQ.html
If the blank is tapered on the edges, your bandsaw cut will not be in the right place on the other side. How do you compensate for that?
You have to be careful to keep the straight surface on the table of the band saw.
Hello maestro and thank you for your priceless lessons.
Im working with the same mould as you do and i can see that the neck mould is longer in few millimeters than most of the mould and every mould in that model of stradivari. So before im starting the neck I wanted to ask you is there a mistake in the mould?
Hello Chen. I know, I also noticed but that's not a problem. That means that the neck will go a bit beeper into the body. I used it as is.
Thank you very much. My first violin will be name “kimon” as a honor for all what I’ve learned from you
Thank you so much! This is a great honor! Please send me a picture as soon as it is finished!
@@maestrokimon I will
What's the name of the company that makes the mould?
It's called Grandi Liutai Italiani and you can send them an e-mail to place an order: info@grandiliutai.it
@@maestrokimon Thanks for that info.
Hi.
I have watched all of this series and re-watched many episodes many times, and I think they're full of great tips and information. Thank you very much!
However, there is one thing that I have been very confused about. The little notch on the scroll template... Why is it there? You said that you would explain it later on, but I don't think you've said it yet?
I've finally started my first violin about a week ago, so now I'd really like to know why it's there. I've seen it many places, but never found an explanation on it...
Thank you very much for watching and your kind words. The notch has to do with the fingerboard, I will explain it as soon as it is time to glue the fingerboard on its place.
Thanks for replying :-)
Okay, I was just a little too impatient then. I hope that the video comes out before I'm finished, but if not, there's always the next violin.
I'm a cellist, but I have been restoring violins and one cello for a couple of years now. I decided to build one or two violins as practice before building a cello. Do you have any tips on how the cello might be different to do?
The main difference is that a cello is bigger, so there is more work to do. Also as the violin is smaller there are more smal details. But I think that it is a good idea to make first a violin and then a cello. Good luck!
Where can I buy the same set of templates?
You can find it at www.grandiliutai.it The website is still under construction but you can mail them to info@grandiliutai.it
@@maestrokimon Thanks
Wonderful job Kimon I just watched all the videos. By the way from where do you supply the purflings, in Athens I suppose
Thank you for your kind words Kostas. I bought mine in Cremona when I was studying there but you can buy purfling at www.dictum.com . I don't know if you can buy it in Athens.
@@maestrokimon Thanks Kimon,
I would never tell anyone to use a jigsaw for this cut, this piece is hard and thick and the curves are tight, the jigsaw would bounce,split and cut off square
Without bandsaw i think a frame turning handsaw or a coping saw are the best, very tiring but precise enough
@george george Also, Simone, similar to mounting a router under a fenced table to create a shaper, you can mount a jigsaw under a sturdy table with the blade pointing up. In this way you can use two hands to maneuver the work. Not as precise as a scroll-saw or a band-saw, but good enough for rough cutting when proper speed and blade are selected.