Found your video because I just installed the Daltile bullnose and field 3x6 in my shower. Bullnose was 1/64” to 1/32” shorter and wrecked all the spacing. Glad you were able to get them to work.
Found your video because I just installed the Daltile bullnose and field 3x6 in my shower. Bullnose was 1/64” to 1/32” shorter and wrecked all the spacing.
It amazes me how people make it sound so expensive. I rented the wet tile saw. Twenty bucks for 4hrs. I had my cuts ready pre-rental, then cut. Returned the saw and installed it at my leisure.
👏🏻Certainly a trick I have used back in my early years. Feels good to be able to save money, when you’re prepared, like you were. I install tile in a shower about every month or so, so I have a tile saw. For everyone else, the $900-$1,400 for a tile saw probably isn’t worth owning one.
Good luck with knowing all your cuts in advance. Might be doable with floor tile that could have the edges covered up with base boards, but with a tile backsplash, it’ll be very hard to know those measurements.
My hourly rate is $75. My daily rate is $600. This Dal Tile 3” x 6” backsplash was about 26 sq. ft. And took 2 days to install, plus some thinset. The client purchased the tile, and grout. I think they originally spent $400 on materials, but when I told them they overpaid, they went elsewhere and spent about $260 or something close to that. So you’re looking at a total around $1,600 to $1700 ish.
It’s kind of a 50/50 decision. One way looks great when the fridge isn’t there, but sometimes I’d rather not see the area behind the fridge. Wish everyone had a cabinet for the fridge.
Drywall or Sheetrock (brand) is not allowed in the shower per code requirements for at least 20 something years. You can use Hardie Backer (my preference) or Wonder board (but it can be brittle), and some other products that are meant for shower walls. Keep in mind that you need a layer of water proofing over these products. I haven’t edited that video yet.
Oh, I see now you are asking about the back splash tile. You can tile over new drywall. If the drywall is torn up from removing a previous tile product or something else that tore up part of the paper, apply a heavy spray coat of Oil Based Kilz primer to seal the paper, so the water in the thin set doesn’t make it peel off, etc.
To make it legal per code, you need moisture resistant drywall on the walls, at a minimum in places like the kitchen, bathroom, etc. You can always get better products, but that is up to you.
If the wall is already flat, as checked by my level, then which side of the trowel you use should have no effect on the wall, or tile thickness, if the same angle of the notched trowel is maintained.
On the floor experience .. over 20 years. I'm here passing tips and real information you wanna see who's tape measure is bigger. Think about it if you have to lift one of those tiles and raise one end, especially on a 12x24 what's easier to correct it? And not only that the air escapes much better when the ridge is collapse on the short end. Better bonding better coverage. Also way easier to correct any discrepancies, especially with a half inch trowel on bigger tile.
Why no spacers? Because there is already built in spacer nubs on this particular tile DalTile D100. Did you happen to notice the bullnose tile on the ends? That’s why I didn’t use Schluter. Why no self-leveling clips? Can you imagine how many clips that would be on such a small tile? Fortunately, this wall is already flat enough, and the tile has rounded edges. Sure, I could have used a cheap tile cutting board, but since I already had my wet saw set up for other parts of floor tile work on this kitchen, might as well use what I have, plus wet saws cut cleaner. I have a $600 24” Sigma cutting board, but rarely use it. Most of my fancier tile jobs are with Marble of some sort, so I’m used to a wet saw and polishing pads, etc.
@@craftsmanconnection but just for people who are inexperienced, diy ers shouldn't be tiling without spacers and level clips. A bag of 200 clips is inexpensive. $26 at floor and decor. Clips is a other $26. Those subway tiles can be $6 a piece. Having huge lippage then having to redo them? Ya no bueno. Sometimes people just have to spend more to save more. Regarding the bull nose, I couldn't really tell. I just known that every video I seen even ones that use subway tile have used either a schluter edge or those separate bull nose stick pieces as edging. Maybe they did it to give it a unique look That's why i asked
You should use leveling clips on tile that has square edges, and bigger tile especially for floors where your feet can feel it. On a backsplash you can use a small flat item, like a straight edge to occasionally check your work and it also helps to have a higher powered light from the side, so you can see shadows better. Sometimes I take a picture of my work, and those pictures can reveal things for some reason you don’t see with your eyes in the moment. Good luck on your future filing projects.
Found your video because I just installed the Daltile bullnose and field 3x6 in my shower. Bullnose was 1/64” to 1/32” shorter and wrecked all the spacing.
How did it end up being shorter? Was a whole bullnose tile shorter than a whole field tile, or was a half a bullnose tile shorter than 1/2 the width of a whole field tile? I haven't noticed this when I was installing the DalTile 3x6? I also heard from a DalTile rep at the DalTile store that the 3x6 bullnose product at DalTile is different than what is sold at Home Depot and other places under the Daltile Restore product line. I asked them about what is different, but they couldn't articulate what exactly, so I have no details as evidence.
Found your video because I just installed the Daltile bullnose and field 3x6 in my shower. Bullnose was 1/64” to 1/32” shorter and wrecked all the spacing. Glad you were able to get them to work.
Nice. Please space your first row of tile at least 1/16" above the countertop. Thanks, granite/quartz countertop guy.
Loo I was thinking that too. There is expansion when the house settles.... it's actually recommended 1/8 to 1/4 amd just caulk it to allow movement
Found your video because I just installed the Daltile bullnose and field 3x6 in my shower. Bullnose was 1/64” to 1/32” shorter and wrecked all the spacing.
Very nice! Thank you.
It amazes me how people make it sound so expensive. I rented the wet tile saw. Twenty bucks for 4hrs. I had my cuts ready pre-rental, then cut. Returned the saw and installed it at my leisure.
👏🏻Certainly a trick I have used back in my early years. Feels good to be able to save money, when you’re prepared, like you were. I install tile in a shower about every month or so, so I have a tile saw. For everyone else, the $900-$1,400 for a tile saw probably isn’t worth owning one.
Nice! I was also thinking if you had all your cuts ready to go you could save a lot on the saw rental!
Good luck with knowing all your cuts in advance. Might be doable with floor tile that could have the edges covered up with base boards, but with a tile backsplash, it’ll be very hard to know those measurements.
Good work.
Thank you Jose.
Nice! How much does labor typically cost for something like this? And how many hours did you use
My hourly rate is $75. My daily rate is $600. This Dal Tile 3” x 6” backsplash was about 26 sq. ft. And took 2 days to install, plus some thinset. The client purchased the tile, and grout. I think they originally spent $400 on materials, but when I told them they overpaid, they went elsewhere and spent about $260 or something close to that. So you’re looking at a total around $1,600 to $1700 ish.
i personaly would have ran it straight tru behind the fridge less cuts and even size tiles but still great job
It’s kind of a 50/50 decision. One way looks great when the fridge isn’t there, but sometimes I’d rather not see the area behind the fridge. Wish everyone had a cabinet for the fridge.
Do you need concrete board or can you just put it on top of Sheetrock?
Drywall or Sheetrock (brand) is not allowed in the shower per code requirements for at least 20 something years.
You can use Hardie Backer (my preference) or Wonder board (but it can be brittle), and some other products that are meant for shower walls.
Keep in mind that you need a layer of water proofing over these products. I haven’t edited that video yet.
Oh, I see now you are asking about the back splash tile. You can tile over new drywall. If the drywall is torn up from removing a previous tile product or something else that tore up part of the paper, apply a heavy spray coat of Oil Based Kilz primer to seal the paper, so the water in the thin set doesn’t make it peel off, etc.
To make it legal per code, you need moisture resistant drywall on the walls, at a minimum in places like the kitchen, bathroom, etc. You can always get better products, but that is up to you.
Thank you!
@@craftsmanconnectionI'm doing a 2" hex mosaic (ceramic) in my kitchen.
What prep do I need to do to the painted drywall?
Mapei Type 1 adhesive.
Should towel the other way. You'll be able to make it flatter ... Always trowel short side.
If the wall is already flat, as checked by my level, then which side of the trowel you use should have no effect on the wall, or tile thickness, if the same angle of the notched trowel is maintained.
Doesn't matter always trowel to the short side.
Better coverage... I promise.
I don’t know where you ever heard that info. Care to share some reference from the Tile Council of America?, or some other third party site?
On the floor experience .. over 20 years. I'm here passing tips and real information you wanna see who's tape measure is bigger. Think about it if you have to lift one of those tiles and raise one end, especially on a 12x24 what's easier to correct it? And not only that the air escapes much better when the ridge is collapse on the short end. Better bonding better coverage. Also way easier to correct any discrepancies, especially with a half inch trowel on bigger tile.
Uh... why no apacers/level clips, or a schluter edge? And ceramic/percalain dont need a wet saw. Those 14 inch tile cutters at home depot is only $24
Why no spacers? Because there is already built in spacer nubs on this particular tile DalTile D100. Did you happen to notice the bullnose tile on the ends? That’s why I didn’t use Schluter. Why no self-leveling clips? Can you imagine how many clips that would be on such a small tile? Fortunately, this wall is already flat enough, and the tile has rounded edges. Sure, I could have used a cheap tile cutting board, but since I already had my wet saw set up for other parts of floor tile work on this kitchen, might as well use what I have, plus wet saws cut cleaner. I have a $600 24” Sigma cutting board, but rarely use it. Most of my fancier tile jobs are with Marble of some sort, so I’m used to a wet saw and polishing pads, etc.
@@craftsmanconnection no disrespect I was just asking. I am still learning. Lol...
@@craftsmanconnection but just for people who are inexperienced, diy ers shouldn't be tiling without spacers and level clips. A bag of 200 clips is inexpensive. $26 at floor and decor. Clips is a other $26. Those subway tiles can be $6 a piece. Having huge lippage then having to redo them? Ya no bueno. Sometimes people just have to spend more to save more. Regarding the bull nose, I couldn't really tell. I just known that every video I seen even ones that use subway tile have used either a schluter edge or those separate bull nose stick pieces as edging. Maybe they did it to give it a unique look
That's why i asked
You should use leveling clips on tile that has square edges, and bigger tile especially for floors where your feet can feel it. On a backsplash you can use a small flat item, like a straight edge to occasionally check your work and it also helps to have a higher powered light from the side, so you can see shadows better. Sometimes I take a picture of my work, and those pictures can reveal things for some reason you don’t see with your eyes in the moment. Good luck on your future filing projects.
@@craftsmanconnection ya but wouldn't the grout lines look proud if the tile sits proud over other tiles because it wasn t set right?
Found your video because I just installed the Daltile bullnose and field 3x6 in my shower. Bullnose was 1/64” to 1/32” shorter and wrecked all the spacing.
How did it end up being shorter? Was a whole bullnose tile shorter than a whole field tile, or was a half a bullnose tile shorter than 1/2 the width of a whole field tile? I haven't noticed this when I was installing the DalTile 3x6? I also heard from a DalTile rep at the DalTile store that the 3x6 bullnose product at DalTile is different than what is sold at Home Depot and other places under the Daltile Restore product line. I asked them about what is different, but they couldn't articulate what exactly, so I have no details as evidence.