Having been a Tool and Die Maker for almost 40 years, i have done my share of heat-treating a few different types of steel, but mainly LOW-carbon ( it's not mild ) and regular Carbon Steel, which has a higher content of carbon in it, making it one of the "all-around" types of steel to work with. I've beenretired quite a while now but i'm sure these have stayed about the same. I have personally during my career, heat-treated at least a thousand individual pieces of Carbon steel, and not so much of LOW-carbon, otherwise known as "cold rolled steel". Basically get the piece A NICE cherry-RED IN COLOR AND THEN JUST dunk INTO A DECENT-SIZED CONTAINER OF OIL THAT IS NORMALLY USED FOR HEAT-TREATING PURPOSES. Suggested proper temp of the oil should be 150 degrees but it even works well at much lower temps. SO, into the oil it goes until it's cooled. Then clean the part, maybe with kerosene to remove the carbon flakes and the oil residue. The steel at this point is very hard, and needs for its' hardness to be reduced,otherwise the part will be extremely brittle and could shatter quite easily. After the part is cleanes it should be sand-blasted to remove the BLACK finish of the part so that the "drawing down process" can be performed. Once again, the part is heated using a torch or small furnace, BUT...........don't go nuts with the heat, and not directly. Heating the part slowly without using a direct flame will start to discolor the part, starting with a light brown color, continuing to a darker brown color ( we call those brown colors "straw" ) and then the following will be from light blue towards dark blue and then purple etc. Normally for working purposes, the ideal color would be either LIGHT-to_dark straw. Before the drawing down process, the carbon steel would have attained a hardness of .............. R/C 62 on the Rockewell scale. Afterwards it should be around 58-60 R/C, pretty darn good for most tooling applications. So the lesson for today is.........................LOW-Carbon steel ( cold rolled ) or standard "Carbon steel" with a much higher carbon content. Tadaaaaa for today.
5:47 its called Martensite or Martensitic steel when it is crystallized with small, brittle grains. Ferritic or ferrite is when it cools for a longer time (depending on carbon content)
@@johncunningham4820Martensite is a metastable phase that forms in quenched steel (carbon steel, alloyed steel and martensitic stainless steel) that has a very high strength and hardness but high fragility too. All carbon and alloyed steels that can be quenched are able to form martensite, however not all stainless steel can be quenched, only martensitic steel as you said. These tipically contain around 13% of Chrome and 0.15 to 0.35% of Carbon. Other types of stainless steel like ferritic or the austenitic stainless steel contain even less carbon (0.05% aprox., hence why they are not hardenable) and more Chrome and Nickel. The most common type of stainless steel are austenitic steel, with very high contents of Chrome and Nickel
I believe hardening requires it to hold at a certain temp for a while so the grain structure can change, and then cooling it. But what do I know. Just a welder
Nah, it's a Japanese technique where if you heat and cool it, the steal experiences a change which then you hammer it to condense it but what do I know, I'm just a guy who looked in Wikipedia for a few minutes
Not at all. The brighter red you get the piece, the harder it will be. Going to WHITE-hot color would make it a bit harder but i wouldn't advise it. Once the proper color has been achieved, hold that for 15-20 seconds at most and then quench in the oil bath.
You know you can actually make a somewhat functional knife or sword out of mild steel it just won't hold an edge very long and it will bend if you hit it hard agianst something, but you don't have to worry about it breaking.
For someone like myself just taking his first small steps into knifesmithing not knowing anything about metal this is invaluable. I know so little I was wondering why springs are such a popular starting point. Thank you, these are the things a lot of channels make the assumption everyone knows.
@@jeffjoestar4245 is there a steel with Boron Carbides? And what is it and why can't I find it on the internet? What does Boron do to steel if not form Carbides? And what about Titanium (in steel)?
My understanding is hi carbon or tool steel will produce red sparks when touched by a grinding disc, whereas mild steel will make yellow sparks .. how does that sound :)
it is very interesting thanks. I heard that with high carbon steel, people in the outdoors use a flint to strike it and sparks come off it. would that not be a simple test, get a piece of quartz flint stone and strike mild steel and then strike carbon steel. carbon steel would give off sparks and mild steel will not? is this a fair test?
i can see where confusion comes from, if we heat carbon steel and quench it hardens. If we let it cool slow it is annealed (softened). with other metals, copper for ex, once we heat it, it will be soft REGARDLESS of whether we cool it fast or slow
Hi great advice l want to make a chisel with tool steel about 5inch long x 1inch wide can l mig a mild steel rod to make the chisel longer Thank you you for any advice Regards Steve U.K. London
Any steel, even with minimal carbon, can be case hardened. High carbon should be annealed (soften) so that it can be worked with. It would then need to be tempered (hardened) to bring the hardness back. Mild carbon steel can be case hardened or tempered. I have made many knives over the years some of which from mild carbon and when case-hardened correctly, they last a very long time. As a professor of welding technology and metallurgical Sciences, I've learned that mild carbon steel does not deserve the bad rap that it often gets. Knife makers prefer high carbon steel such as 1095, because it will require less annealing and tempering. It's basically ready to go and a sharpened Edge will last a lot longer. But it does not mean that mild carbon is inferior.
Nice explain but so far I understand u make clear what quenching effect on high carbon steel on quenching and secondly when it's get cool down normally
Let me see.. both metals were the same thickness, check. How about a test with both pieces with the exact same dimensions in all directions. The carbon steel looked to have been heated before the test and after. On the bend test, the mild steel was bent in the area that was not treated; however, the carbon steel that looked pretreated was clamped in the vise into the treated area. I'm no metallurgy expert, but sorry, this test looked skewed.
what makes you think motor oil will increase the carbon in the steel ? You would need carbon to add to the steel first ! Quenching it in oil will only allow it to cool a little slower than water will ! If you want to increase the carbon content , you will have to add carbon to the steel during the heating process !
@@awashburn6944 yes and that is ideal for armour, as the hard steel on the outer layer provides slashing protection, and the combined provides piercing protection.
you bent the mild steel too far away from the end. the bit that was quenched stayed straight . and you didn't use the tip of the file on the high carbon. do it right. plus you used two different sized pieces. kind of a stupid test.
I use 1095 steel for most of my knives. What's considered the best for a sword, like a katana or samurai style? I see a lot of people using 1045 or 1070...whats the best overall?
you only need a bit of high carbon urged into the cutting side.....or case harden it......the prosess for hardening it not simple....there are many ways ant the more controlled and repeated the better.
Case hardening has no practical use I knife making. The hard steel would only penetrate a few thousandths of an inch and would be removed after the first time sharpening.
Lupus Diem Too much HRC and the knife is useless for real work and will probably snap quite easily. Depends what you wants but for 1055, I’d say 52-55hrc is optimal. Also, too low hrc and the blade won’t be very functional at holding an edge. This is why the steel has to be tempered.
ok, so if you continued to bend the high carbon steel, wouldn't it break? you said you could bend it "all day". well, what have i been bending and breaking in just a few seconds? '
If you want to see what steel your blade is made out of, snap it. If it does snap it's a good blade..... Well, not anymore. I did enjoy the vid though, had to make a joke
You don't understand how to quench mild steel. It can be done, though not easily. Also, your quenching of the high carbon will obviously cause the piece to be brittle, you quenched it in room temp water. Neither time did you bring the material up to the proper temperature for a heat treat.
I suspect half the braying about higih carbon steel in these comments is from knife-obsessed Walking Dead cosplayers. Why would you complain about mild steel - something that half the shit that keeps you alive is made of..
if you want a bearing hard of the carbon steel not bend or not cut folow the red color of the fire of the carbon steel the secret of JAPANESE TO QUENCH IS THE color blood of the fire of the samurai before they QUECNCH IT INTO THE OIL OR WATER TO AVOID OF CUTTING CRACKING ETC
You weren't even using the tip of the file to scratch the high carbon steel... You were using the portion of the mild steel that wasn't quesnched when you bent it. You can make austenitic steel from mild steel. You need to do some research. You can make non magnetic metal from magnetic metel by making it austenitic. A lot of stuff you say is kind of wrong.
@@awashburn6944 it's called allotropy. And these critical... Points change with ingredients. Also called eutectic points when the melting points are lowered.
@@awashburn6944 have you started learning about body centered cubic and face centered cubic? What about solid crystal forging? Vacuum induction forging is the best way to get super alloys with maximum strength and ductility.
@@awashburn6944 ok so you haven't heard about single Crystal formation. It is used for turbine compressor blades on jet engines. Instead of a structure of multiple crystals across the metal structure the entire part is formed as a single solid crystal with no boundary edges for weakness. Such as when ferrite and Pearlite form as the carbon diffuses. There's not much information on it. But there are a few wiki pages. It's really only for people who want to know what the future will be like.
Voice of the middle schooler, hands of an 80 year old. Great vid, keep up the good work.
LOL
@bachelors of trolling degree, 2013 ummmm what? LOL
And the foreskin of a 40 year old
@bachelors of trolling degree, 2013 love the name.
LUL
Having been a Tool and Die Maker for almost 40 years, i have done my share of heat-treating a few different types of steel, but mainly LOW-carbon ( it's not mild ) and regular Carbon Steel, which has a higher content of carbon in it, making it one of the "all-around" types of steel to work with. I've beenretired quite a while now but i'm sure these have stayed about the same. I have personally during my career, heat-treated at least a thousand individual pieces of Carbon steel, and not so much of LOW-carbon, otherwise known as "cold rolled steel". Basically get the piece A NICE cherry-RED IN COLOR AND THEN JUST dunk INTO A DECENT-SIZED CONTAINER OF OIL THAT IS NORMALLY USED FOR HEAT-TREATING PURPOSES. Suggested proper temp of the oil should be 150 degrees but it even works well at much lower temps. SO, into the oil it goes until it's cooled. Then clean the part, maybe with kerosene to remove the carbon flakes and the oil residue. The steel at this point is very hard, and needs for its' hardness to be reduced,otherwise the part will be extremely brittle and could shatter quite easily. After the part is cleanes it should be sand-blasted to remove the BLACK finish of the part so that the "drawing down process" can be performed. Once again, the part is heated using a torch or small furnace, BUT...........don't go nuts with the heat, and not directly. Heating the part slowly without using a direct flame will start to discolor the part, starting with a light brown color, continuing to a darker brown color ( we call those brown colors "straw" ) and then the following will be from light blue towards dark blue and then purple etc. Normally for working purposes, the ideal color would be either LIGHT-to_dark straw. Before the drawing down process, the carbon steel would have attained a hardness of .............. R/C 62 on the Rockewell scale. Afterwards it should be around 58-60 R/C, pretty darn good for most tooling applications. So the lesson for today is.........................LOW-Carbon steel ( cold rolled ) or standard "Carbon steel" with a much higher carbon content. Tadaaaaa for today.
that is the best summary of heat treating basics I have seen. Thank you Mr. Samson
Stopped watching the video to read this heat treat tutorial. Thanks for this... 🙏🏻
5:47 its called Martensite or Martensitic steel when it is crystallized with small, brittle grains.
Ferritic or ferrite is when it cools for a longer time (depending on carbon content)
Pretty sure Martensitic is a STAINLESS Steel Grade , not Carbon steel .
@@johncunningham4820Martensite is a metastable phase that forms in quenched steel (carbon steel, alloyed steel and martensitic stainless steel) that has a very high strength and hardness but high fragility too. All carbon and alloyed steels that can be quenched are able to form martensite, however not all stainless steel can be quenched, only martensitic steel as you said. These tipically contain around 13% of Chrome and 0.15 to 0.35% of Carbon. Other types of stainless steel like ferritic or the austenitic stainless steel contain even less carbon (0.05% aprox., hence why they are not hardenable) and more Chrome and Nickel. The most common type of stainless steel are austenitic steel, with very high contents of Chrome and Nickel
I believe hardening requires it to hold at a certain temp for a while so the grain structure can change, and then cooling it. But what do I know. Just a welder
Nah, it's a Japanese technique where if you heat and cool it, the steal experiences a change which then you hammer it to condense it but what do I know, I'm just a guy who looked in Wikipedia for a few minutes
Not at all. The brighter red you get the piece, the harder it will be. Going to WHITE-hot color would make it a bit harder but i wouldn't advise it. Once the proper color has been achieved, hold that for 15-20 seconds at most and then quench in the oil bath.
How do I convert HR hard sheet to soft sheet?
@@jubairahmed5719 . By annealing . Heat it cherry red and then allow it to Air Cool .
You know you can actually make a somewhat functional knife or sword out of mild steel it just won't hold an edge very long and it will bend if you hit it hard agianst something, but you don't have to worry about it breaking.
You can make it out of mild steel and harden the blade
Lisandro Nari hardening mild steel is almost impossible and if you pull it off it’s barely noticeable
Case hardening is still possible I think though.
@@lisandronari1831 This exact video is about how mild steel doesn't harden.
@@lisandronari1831 . I'm pretty sure the POINT of THIS video is , that , NO you cannot Harden Mild Steel .
For someone like myself just taking his first small steps into knifesmithing not knowing anything about metal this is invaluable. I know so little I was wondering why springs are such a popular starting point. Thank you, these are the things a lot of channels make the assumption everyone knows.
i'm 10 months late but if you have any question about metallurgy or blacksmithing let me know, i'll try to answer to the best of my knowledge.
777
@@jeffjoestar4245 is there a steel with Boron Carbides? And what is it and why can't I find it on the internet? What does Boron do to steel if not form Carbides? And what about Titanium (in steel)?
@@jeffjoestar4245 sry 1 yr late lol
@@jeffjoestar4245 youtube mostly I meant*
You can harden mild steel....Its called case hardening or carburizing
Thank You. Kindly inform the approximate carbon content in the two samples for us viewers to be able to appreciate better.
My understanding is hi carbon or tool steel will produce red sparks when touched by a grinding disc, whereas mild steel will make yellow sparks .. how does that sound :)
it is very interesting thanks. I heard that with high carbon steel, people in the outdoors use a flint to strike it and sparks come off it. would that not be a simple test, get a piece of quartz flint stone and strike mild steel and then strike carbon steel. carbon steel would give off sparks and mild steel will not? is this a fair test?
4:26 pretty much what happened to the Rails the Pennydarren ran on, because the Rails that the Pennydarren ran on was cast iron
i can see where confusion comes from, if we heat carbon steel and quench it hardens. If we let it cool slow it is annealed (softened). with other metals, copper for ex, once we heat it, it will be soft REGARDLESS of whether we cool it fast or slow
Great job
I have question for you, have you heard about chemical called caluanie , it can break mild steel within 3 min
Can I Make a Burglar Door and Windows with Stainless Steel
How do I convert HR hard sheet to soft sheet?
Can u weld mild steel and hi tensile steel together easy
"I'm gonna put this to rest" A sisyphean task if ever there was one.
hye andrew how to welding high carbon steel?
Hi great advice l want to make a chisel with tool steel about 5inch long x 1inch wide can l mig a mild steel rod to make the chisel longer
Thank you you for any advice
Regards
Steve U.K. London
Does high carbon steel weight the same as mild steel?
How can an 14 gauge high carbon steel sugar loaf forged helmet too be rated does it qualify as hardened tempered steel
Any steel, even with minimal carbon, can be case hardened. High carbon should be annealed (soften) so that it can be worked with. It would then need to be tempered (hardened) to bring the hardness back. Mild carbon steel can be case hardened or tempered. I have made many knives over the years some of which from mild carbon and when case-hardened correctly, they last a very long time. As a professor of welding technology and metallurgical Sciences, I've learned that mild carbon steel does not deserve the bad rap that it often gets. Knife makers prefer high carbon steel such as 1095, because it will require less annealing and tempering. It's basically ready to go and a sharpened Edge will last a lot longer. But it does not mean that mild carbon is inferior.
Case hardening is adding carbon, therefore it not being mild anymore. Soo
@@awashburn6944 well said. You addressed my exact question(s).
He plays a professor in his video games. What he said makes no sense which if he was a professor, that's a mail in degree
Nice explain but so far I understand u make clear what quenching effect on high carbon steel on quenching and secondly when it's get cool down normally
Thank you for demonstrating
If you hate that hot carbon seal up until it's yellow for 3 hours it'll anneal it and make it better.
U definitely can harden mild steel not as well but I've done it more than once
@POOR PIRANO no I think u would only be increasing your chances on a crack happening I recomend oil not water
How to see the difference between steel and iron
Which is heavier
Let me see.. both metals were the same thickness, check. How about a test with both pieces with the exact same dimensions in all directions. The carbon steel looked to have been heated before the test and after. On the bend test, the mild steel was bent in the area that was not treated; however, the carbon steel that looked pretreated was clamped in the vise into the treated area. I'm no metallurgy expert, but sorry, this test looked skewed.
What if you quench it in something like motor oil to increase the carbon in the steel?
what makes you think motor oil will increase the carbon in the steel ? You would need carbon to add to the steel first ! Quenching it in oil will only allow it to cool a little slower than water will ! If you want to increase the carbon content , you will have to add carbon to the steel during the heating process !
Please show me maginet less iron
How do i add more cwrbon to my steel, but not enough to make it cast iron?
@@awashburn6944 but that yields mild carbon steel, i guess that's better than. Nothing
@@awashburn6944 yes and that is ideal for armour, as the hard steel on the outer layer provides slashing protection, and the combined provides piercing protection.
that mild steel need to be hotter than you had it high yellow or white it will harden quench in brine
is mild steel and low carbon steel same ?
hight carbon steel is better?
very useful video, thx bro and good luck!
what are the carbon amounts in each piece?
Cooling of the high carbon steel in the second time was water cooled or air cooled?
NAVEEN KUMAR or was it overclocked?
Excellent demonstration and explanation. Thanks!
ReAlly nice practical. Thanks
Did you heat and quench and then test the non hardened end ?🤔
Yes
Nice video bro.
Didnt bend it from the poi t of hardening
Great video thank you
Which steel used in barbell..
Plz tell me
which steel is better for high magnetic field low carbon or high carbon?
I guess it's only iron that works with magnets. The purer, the better.
High carbon works best to polarize....certain magnets shatter some don't.
you bent the mild steel too far away from the end. the bit that was quenched stayed straight . and you didn't use the tip of the file on the high carbon. do it right. plus you used two different sized pieces. kind of a stupid test.
I use 1095 steel for most of my knives. What's considered the best for a sword, like a katana or samurai style? I see a lot of people using 1045 or 1070...whats the best overall?
dud wut lmao
@@couterei.1953
Best nowadays is Magnacut
the two materials can be combined?
It's possible. Not an effective way to produce medium carbon steel though.
Thanks man very informative
u should perform this magic trick on America has got talent.
thanks a lot for this great information :)
you only need a bit of high carbon urged into the cutting side.....or case harden it......the prosess for hardening it not simple....there are many ways ant the more controlled and repeated the better.
Case hardening has no practical use I knife making. The hard steel would only penetrate a few thousandths of an inch and would be removed after the first time sharpening.
1055 how is the hrc what that have
Lupus Diem Too much HRC and the knife is useless for real work and will probably snap quite easily.
Depends what you wants but for 1055, I’d say 52-55hrc is optimal. Also, too low hrc and the blade won’t be very functional at holding an edge.
This is why the steel has to be tempered.
I like when hrc is 57-60
What are you trying to proof, you have a piece of carbon steel i would have thought test the carbon steel before you qence it
That's not the "substance" its the crystal structure or grain structure. Tighter structure should be "harder"
Non-ferrious material?
Non magnetic little or no iron.
Look up mild steel because watching a video on a panther and there was a panther tested with mild steel
"See guys? If you take materials with different properties and treat them exactly the same, you get different results. cAsE cLoSeD!" 🤦🏼♂️
thank you!!
you will learn to hate mild steel until you build a massive oil foundry and then you can make all steel as high carbon as you want.
Are you Terrence Mckenna?
Mild steel bend to smooth & high carbon steel not bend it break..... which one is use sir
rizwan bagban mild steel cold rolled is best
Ok which one good
ok, so if you continued to bend the high carbon steel, wouldn't it break? you said you could bend it "all day". well, what have i been bending and breaking in just a few seconds?
'
try quench mild steel in salt water.
شكرا . 😊
where do i get the some kind of magic steel? Please leave a link
Try the shop in Diagon Alley, London.
thank you very much, well done and informative video !
Thank you 😀
I watched this video because I wanna gonna buy some Carbon steel blades for cosplay so thank u for this
5:02 yeah bend it towards yourself.....thats smart
4:20 Omg that sound lol.
There's no I in Ferrous! Like there's no F'in Haddock!
hello
A description of each process would be good, as dipping it in certain solutions for those of us not in the know, is a bit bilwildering
If you want to see what steel your blade is made out of, snap it. If it does snap it's a good blade..... Well, not anymore.
I did enjoy the vid though, had to make a joke
Little Dan McNamara You can check by the spring effect u don't have to push it till it snaps🤣🤣🤣🤣
U do the test before you make the blade.
Since when does Quentin Tarantino do videos like this?😮
Mild Steel: Iron, but better.
Please answer me 😊😊
thanks very nice video
You don't understand how to quench mild steel. It can be done, though not easily. Also, your quenching of the high carbon will obviously cause the piece to be brittle, you quenched it in room temp water. Neither time did you bring the material up to the proper temperature for a heat treat.
I was thinking exactly the same. The metal just got a little red before dipping, and that is really not how it is supposed to be.
Is that a Irwin Record vice?
Drink more water than you use to quench 😂
I pick the mild steel
But altough, i learned a lesson..
thank you.
That was such a bad experiment I have made a carving knife out of mild steal and I have carved over 5 Woden spoons and it still holds a edge
Whats a wood compared to metal working?
I even did a fair amount of carving with a brass knife I made as a kid. Held an edge better than expected. Obviously sucks compared to carbon steel.
?
Tops knives has this figured out. There knives are fuggn aWSome
I think Buck does too, my 119 is incredibly hard. Found that out when I tried modifying the tip... freakin Valerian steel!
he put those pieces in the same cup! One after another! first in cold water, second in hot... smart boy! ))
MARTENSITIC
Ok
I suspect half the braying about higih carbon steel in these comments is from knife-obsessed Walking Dead cosplayers. Why would you complain about mild steel - something that half the shit that keeps you alive is made of..
if you want a bearing hard of the carbon steel not bend or not cut folow the red color of the fire of the carbon steel the secret of JAPANESE TO QUENCH IS THE color blood of the fire of the samurai before they QUECNCH IT INTO THE OIL OR WATER TO AVOID OF CUTTING CRACKING ETC
Had YOU ever been crystalize ?
Did you harden? It in water
You weren't even using the tip of the file to scratch the high carbon steel... You were using the portion of the mild steel that wasn't quesnched when you bent it. You can make austenitic steel from mild steel. You need to do some research. You can make non magnetic metal from magnetic metel by making it austenitic. A lot of stuff you say is kind of wrong.
@@awashburn6944 it's called allotropy. And these critical... Points change with ingredients. Also called eutectic points when the melting points are lowered.
@@awashburn6944 all non ferrous metals are non magnetic. I misused the terms for definitions instead of the properties.
@@awashburn6944 have you started learning about body centered cubic and face centered cubic? What about solid crystal forging? Vacuum induction forging is the best way to get super alloys with maximum strength and ductility.
@@awashburn6944 ok so you haven't heard about single Crystal formation. It is used for turbine compressor blades on jet engines. Instead of a structure of multiple crystals across the metal structure the entire part is formed as a single solid crystal with no boundary edges for weakness. Such as when ferrite and Pearlite form as the carbon diffuses. There's not much information on it. But there are a few wiki pages. It's really only for people who want to know what the future will be like.
@@awashburn6944 ok so how does the single Crystal process work?
Ferrous, not "ferrious." Fair-iss
Ferr-oss ;)
Martensite
It's martensite