How to Harden Mild Steel? (Impossible!)
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- So they say it's impossible to harden mild steel. Well, here's how to do it... (hint: start with "mild" steel that isn't really "mild" steel.)
Tip: When grinding metal ALWAYS use a good filter/respirator to protect your lungs from particles. Here's a link to the model I ordered from Amazon:
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A couple of weeks ago I made a cleaver/wood chopper using a scrap of structural or "mild" steel.
For that project I used a 4.5 inch angle grinder as my only power tool and I showed how to put a decent age on a knife made of mild steel. An edge that WILL chop and cut wood without going dull... at least for a while.
But I noticed large bursts coming from the sparks while grinding that scrap of steel. That's usually an indication of higher carbon content so for this video I'm testing to see if that steel can actually be hardened and tempered.
NOTE: I haven't been posting as often as I'd like because of upgrades and technical issues, but regular schedule of 3 to 4 uploads per week should resume very soon.
In the meantime, check out my blog at: www.fargofx.com
It's pretty weak right now, but I'm planning to do a lot more with it in the new year.
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If you want to forge strong, flexible, no nonsense knives, forge them from leaf springs you get from the junkyard. Leaf springs are 5160, a superb forging steel, which is also easy to heat treat and temper, and has commonly known heat treating recipes.
Be sure to forge the spring to shape with a hammer, that way any stress micro cracking are forge-welded.
good advice
Although you are correct about 5160 being a great, forgiving, and easy for beginners with basic tools to work with not every leaf spring on the planet is 5160 steel, I recommend getting a set of hrc files and harden a test piece to see what it reaches, beginners without these files can do a simple spark test if the sparks are bright and have a firework effect its a good sign thst you've got a higher carbon steel on your hands, happy forging!!
That’s very interesting..you should try and grind out a quick bevel, sharpen it, and test a thinner edge. Funny thing is, I think most cheap “stainless steel kitchen knives” are made from the cheapest stainless they can get their hands on. The steel you have there will probably hold an edge better than most kitchen knives under $30.
If you used a wood or coke forge you are adding carbon (if steel is in cherry red or more the atoms of carbon can pass true the Fe). By the other hand seams like 1045 or close to that when you cut the piece, if is the case you can tampering this steel.
If you work with mild steel you can add more carbon using 80% of charcoal and 20% of borax, you heat the piece to orange and let cool in this mix, more times you do more steel you get (each time is like 0.5mm deep of high carbon steel). I hope helps you. Best regards from Argentina and sorry for my rusty English haha
it's the cheapest steel because it needs low chromium concentration to be able to harden through martensite transformation.
it's not really intentional. the best stainless steels for hardening have low additions of other carbide forming elements (Mo, Ti and W), to decrease grain boundary corrosion. But they are still incredible cheap when compared to regular austenitic stainless steel.
I'm not so much worried about the particles as I am the guardless angle grinder.
Guards are an obstruction. For a small wheel like that and at those low speeds, there isn't much danger. A catastrophic failure might break the skin. You have to hit 10k with heavier wheels to do damage. Stones are more dangerous. Much more so and you should do a ring test. I was a chipper and grinder at an iron Foundry for 8 years. I never once had an abrasive wheel, flanged cup stone or disc failure.
@@joesikkspac7904 if that disk tears apart it's going straight into your eyeball. google images "angle grinder accident".
@@chrishayes5755 that's why you wear a full face mask
@@joesikkspac7904 exactly. And disk don't break just because. If they break its because the person did something wrong
@@chrishayes5755 read the maximum RPM on the grinder and the wheel and if the wheel doesnt exceed that then have a ball
FYI never have the sparks shooting away from you. It sounds counter productive, but if that zip disk grabs, that grinder is coming directly at you. Have fun, but play safe.
Learning about quadrants is borderline a necessity for using an angle grinder, like full stop
He don't even know how to use the grinder🤣🤣
black smiting in sandals at 2:00 .... one minute later. recommends particulate mask.... you know... cuz ppe is only for your face
CNoreen. Yeah, I noticed that! Steel toed shoes/boots as a must. A lot of youtubers neglect their feet. Even in a woodshop the possibility of a dropped tool or plank is very real, not to mention the wood shavings and sawdust being an irritant, same must be true of a metalwork shop. Real smiths always dress for protection, as witnessed by the state of their clothes!
I was thinking along the same line but with the mis use of the grinder A: no gard and B:cutting the wrong direction, cut with the wheel not against it so if it grabs it pulls it away from you not push’s it into you
I have a friend who dropped her kitchen knife on her bare boot and sustained a severe injury. It cut major important things in her foot and she was laid up for weeks.
Those are safety sandals. I agree with theshauny, however, regarding the grinder with no guard. Using a grinder with no guard (like in the video) is one of the leading causes of injury in industrial settings.
stick ppe right up your rear end. ppe is for Snowflake's who don't know how to do their jobs correctly
Structural steel has sometimes more carbon in it. Rebar is any scrap they could find, so also may vary in carbon content.
there is no such thing as "structural steel".... when I ordered raw material at the structural production fitting/welding shop, I couldn't just call them up and say I need 3'x3' structural steel angle iron....... I say I need 3"x3" angle, if I don't specify, they will send mild steel... Mild steel is what most structural applications use (unless corrosion is an issue and zinc coating won't work)
Testing it after the quench with a file might have told you something...
Grinder is upside down to me; if it bites the metal, it's gonna bite you next
About breathing protection: keep the mask on your face after you finished grinding indoors. The fumes and dust particles stay airborne longer than you'ld expect.
lol! talks about safety equipment, forges in flipflops, nice!
spark testing isnt really accurate when using an angle grinder . the wheel throws its own sparks with any ferrous metal
Lol! I agree that it's not accurate but....
In order to throw sparks, it would have to be worn away substantially and produce a high enough temperature to nearly melt the material being ground. The silicon carbide and silicon oxide of the grinding wheels won't be raised to a high enough temperature to do that.
@@baddoggie101 i posted that two years ago how far down the comments page was this ?
Some thoughts after watching the video:
1, Structure steel also come with different grades, can be low or medium carbon.
2, Salt water has much higher cooling rate if you want higher as-quenched hardness. Temper as usual.
3, Easy way to do break test, is to grind a small notch (stress riser) on the test piece, put it notch nown on the anvil with something under one end, and hit the back side with a hammer.
Hope it helps.
Just look up clickspring, he's got a video about how the Greeks and Romans case hardened their iron.
Dude. You have GOT to use the right side of the disc when cutting/grinding. That's how you grenade the disc. Start using the opposite side. Yes, it throw a the sparks in your direction, but if you have the right PPE on it's not a big deal. Definitely not as big a deal as blowing up a disc anyway. I learned the hard way, you don't have to lol.
bingo oatmeal you've got no clue what you're talking about. It's not really which side of the disc you use, it depends on direction of travel. And REALLY even that doesn't matter, they'll blow up either way. Go witj American or German made and you should be fine. And that's why you always wear a face shield when cutting.
I'd love an explanation of how a composite cutoff wheel can explode from rotating one way but not the other.
@@wanderingcalamity360 you're talking to the op right?
@@ryankabcenel9700
Yeah.
@@wanderingcalamity360 Long story short, same reason chainsaws throw chips at you instead of away. Easier to control when it's pulling away, and when it grabs it pulls up and away instead of down and back, which is was safer
Talks about safety but throws grinder guard straight out the window
....among other things i was waiting for the vice to break.....
safety tip on that mask. keep mask perpendicular to ground NOT parallel.
3:27 The good old days when you could just go out and buy a face mask and TP...
Hello we harden mild steel with water or oil
Read your comments your personal safety is non existent go on treat yourself to a pair of work boots grinder guards and a table that would stay on 4 legs
So you say your slippers broke, hence the sandals really, suppose you grinder gaurds just wore out
Forgot to mention the work bench, guess the securing bolts just broke too
EXCELENT VIDEO! THANKS
If you know someone in the NDE field they could use a PMI gun and tell you what it is
For a spark test you want to use a belt grinder or bench grinder. Angle grinder discs do something funky with the sparks.
a bench grinder and angle grinder physically function identically, how would an angle grinder be any different from a hard-wheeled bench grinder? this is internet gear-addict theory and not real life.
@@tragikk03 diffrent makeups for the stones vs the discs
Try to get those masks now, it ain't happening.
I was worried about that drill.
OK, I'm not a blacksmith, nor am I a welder or have any qualifications a a metal worker, but my humble "common" knowledge of smithing tells me that when you hammered the three pieces of steel, no matter what they where, they now have qualities which promote hardening. So you upgraded the quality of the metal by merely hammering it into shape.
Forging in flip flops you live life on the edge
I picked up a really nice bit of scrap metal recently and my brother reckons it's make a great knife. Now I just need to figure out if it's carbon or not
Haha. My dad use to pull me away from saws like that. 😂 pulling clothes are quite effective. Now a few times if it was at a range he would use a chunk of wood and throw it at me. Lol.
I restored an old hand plane. It needs a new iron. Could I take a piece of mild steel and get it red hot and dunk it in cold water.
I like how your son was entranced by the fire and you pulled him away by his shirt. That made me laugh.
Can you send these dialogue in sentences please??
What will I use to make it the hardest?
He needs to protect those electrical wires that all the grinding is landing on.
Working in sandals, no gaurds on your grinders, work bench that looks like it could walk out the door. I'm impressed!!!
But yeah, make sure you wear your mask!
if you look at my videos you can see me work with slippers
but at the end of the winter they were busted and had to throw em away ;o;
It was up to the Swanson code
“Stable platform”
Come with me and you’ll see a world of OSHA violations
I was cooking bacon once and I was only wearing socks on my feet. A little blob of grease flew out and hit the sock. Amazing pain. Took 5 weeks to heal. Thats all I could think about seeing those sandals.
The socks held the superheated grease and made the burn way worse. Ive had major burns from hot coffee when wearing socks, bare feet is better than socks. Having said that, bare feet when working with metal is a BAD idea any day!
Are you really running your grinder the wrong way with no guard on it in a tutorial? My buddy cut his entire face in half doing that and he is a 20 year metal guy. I hope no younger people watching this follow that particular example ive seen first had the irreversible damage to not only your flesh but also your confidence. Not ranting btw its just not a good thing to show when teaching
Thanks
Make sure that you compress the nose clip !
Back in the day, I used to use an oxy/acetylene torch with a carburizing flame to put a thin wear-resistant coating onto the business-end of some gardening tools.
From what I have seen, rebar is basically the shepherd's pie of steels -- it's made of left-overs, and you never know how it will behave outside of its intended use.
The carburising process that you describe is still a legitimate means of local hardening of low carbon steels.
Can i do this to my non hardened steel baton tubes to make them hardened?
Could be high tensile steel it has twice the carbon than mild steel. Up to over between about 4 to 7% high tensile steel is commonly used in the metal industry. Mostly in hollow section and formed sections like channel and H beams etc.
Your grinding machine without safety cover.. dangerous fatal
This video Would be great if you know that was mild steel or not otherwise it's a little useless
If you advice safety gear while grinding metal, than don't wear gloves, its dangerous. when your glove get caught in the wheel it will eat your hand. if your finger without glove touches the wheel you will get a cut but it won't 'eat it' this goes for all tools that spin or rotate.
$.12 a pound at local scrap yard if they will let you in to scrounge...I'm in shock that one yard locally let's me in there to scrounge when giant tracked machines two stories tall are working to load rail cars...obviously their insurance companies don't know...it is frigging dangerous as hell in that yard with piles of heavy metal 3-4 stories tall rising above you...I always look up for widow makers just hanging...waiting to fall...its like your walking through mouse traps down there and your the frigging mouse...I've taken some photos of the piles, but it's not like being there and a 1,000 lb piece of steel is waiting right above you to shear you in half if it falls...its quite an experience...but, you can get some damn good deals and I'm all for capitalism...! F the socialist/communist bastards. I've even crawled on those piles when I feel lucky and I spot a piece that I really want!!!!!! I'm not making this shit up. My day job is an insurance adjuster, but I'm a certified nut job do it yourselfer making things and repairing old equipment in my spare time, and that scrap steel is a pretty as hell. Good luck and keep your head up, looking skyward if you go for the scrap steel...!
No guard on your grinder working in flip flops in the workshop and your bench is falling to bits
what about using your cut off wheel backwards
Leaf springs, lots of steel bedframes. Ive used old brick layers chisels and saw bldes too.
Apparently you’re not worried about your life if you don’t have a shield on your grinder
👨💻🔦The wonders of spring steel UNO if you temper it right & dip in the right oil ( out of power transformers coolant oil) get a bit that and after you dip it clean 7 reheat 250d or use a torch burn oil off till a blue color IF DONE right it has a High Pitch ring to it Now brothers you can a blade that cuts spring steel spring up to 4mm in a foot kick press or ? what ever you tool imagination needs trust me Spring steel rod & leaf is a dam pretty good work tool head the bars out of car boots them rods are spring steal or buy scraps of a local spring manufacture just ask for a bundle of what bits $ 10 20 50 $ how do i know this ? I was a spring maker for 25 years we did things that alot dont know well i did i aways making my own tools & some are still used from 1980s thats good & i welded rings to a mild bar and made a spring coiler for lathes hard bold nut welded 1 side so i could a just the wire grip bolt :)😲👋🎬
Why do people take the safety guard off the grinder? Idiots!
Protect full face from the tiny particles also , they cause the tiny cracks in the skin and premature aging.
Mate you really need to make yourself a decent bench. Yours is crap!! To see the vice ( sorry vise, I'm English) bouncing up and down along with all the stuff on the bench is not a good look, very amateur in fact. And for your own safety and wellbeing the vice needs to be on a fully supporting sturdy surface. Rant over lol liked your chopper, it has a nice shape and is pleasing to the eye and oaks ergonomic.
How about some protective footwear. I was worried about your feet all video. So much knowledge required for making blades. Thanks Dan
forging with sandals? you are a brave man
There's a few ways to harden mild steel, Super quenching, Work hardening, and Case Hardening.
I’ve tried that and it’s not work any reason why
Man...you need a plasma torch...waaay too much grinding..
Steve Lee
Fun tools for sure.
Small child by the forge, wearing flip flops, I could not continue watching.
Search up the super quench
I have case hardened mild steel with a cutting torch adjusted with less oxygen then normal so that it has a black smoke flame. Then a cherry red and quench. It only does a 1/2 to 1 1/2 thousands of hardening. But that is good enough for some things.
It would be interesting to see how the different pieces would drill.
structural steel is not mild steel
Very interesting video. When making little rebar knifes, I've always hardened and quenched them just for practice. Never really put them through much use. One test I think would be really cool for you to try with the mild steel knife, is called the "brass rod test." There are videos out on the interned about it, but basically, you push and slide the edge of your knife across a brass rod and if it bends and stays bent, its too soft, If the edge chips, its too hard. But if it flexes with the curve of the brass rod, then springs back into place, you are in good shape. Of course there are alot of factors that effect the outcome of the test, such as thickness of the edge, and the angle it is sharpened at, but you know you did something right if your knife passes the test.
Good to see that 3/4 of the comments are from people bitching about how unsafe you're being. 🙄
That's A36 low carbon mild steel, I can see it from here!
Structural steels will harden. They are generally either A36, A572, A500, or A992 ASTM grades. They aren't usually intended to be hardened, so it requires some different techniques and temperatures. Quench in as fast a quench as you can find. Icy salt water comes to mind. There are no elements in these steels to allow them to harden with slower quench baths like oil. Heat these steels to a higher temperature than normal. 1600 F is a good starting point and may require more. Lower carbon content raises the temperature needed to harden these steels when quenching. The magnet trick only tells you the temperature is above ~1425 F. Some high carbon steels like 1080, 1075, 1084, will harden below 1400 F, but you need very good temperature and time control to do it consistently.
Roast to red heat in an oven while surrounded with carbon. Pack within a steel tube. Six hours will give you a 1/32" skin of carbon steel. The inside will be tough, the outside will be hard. There are proprietary surface-hardening mixtures, but plain carbon, graphite or charcoal, will work.
If you pack apiece of 2mm wall tube with charcoal powder you get inside carburized, then you weld the two carburized sides together and get steel with "soft" outside and hard inside great for small carving knives and the "soft" steel is less prone to rust as bonus (large part of blade)
By the way, by weld i mean forgeweld, normalize after weld then treat as O1
That's a perfectly good idea. You need a hard edge, and pure iron hardly rusts at all.
It has been used for knives here in sweden since vikings roamed, modern laminated Mora knives re more or less a more controled way of doing it.
Yep that's how it's done you can turn a nail into W1 on the outside and a good tough core in the center.
I was expecting something here, but due to the fact I see blacksmithing in flipflops, I am not taking any statements or recommendations seriously. Simple as that!
Good thing none of us were taking *YOU* seriously, anyway.
So if he told you the metal was hot coming out of the fire, you wouldn't take him seriously because he's wearing flip-flops. Admittedly, not the wise thing to, but you only continue in your ignorance and pettiness if you let something like that close your mind to any knowledge that might be gained.
@@HiTechDiver people watch these videos and they usually take examples and/or recommendations how to make things in videos like this. People directly or indirectly can take some practices of this into their workshops, intentionally or not "wearing flipflops" drop something on they foot and loose fingers for example. Not everyone will do that or whatsoever, but my main point is that if you are of some sort of content creator like this, please advise SAFETY in videos. Do whatever you like and how you like when your alone or so, but do not promote bad safety habbits in workshop. It's not the ignorance I close my mind to, I am not taking serious this type of attitude. No need to jump in and defend anyone here, that was just my opinion, like it or not, I have some point in it.
Have you ever broken the front of a vise. You will hammering towards the weaker part of it. Hammering back to the main body is far stronger.
Dude, when you're bashing away at a vice, hit toward the fixed jaw. Your vice will last a lot longer!
I suggest viewers look up in back copies of "Home Shop Machinist" for a couple articles I read there about this specific concept: that mild steel is unpardonable. My recollection of the writer"s conclusions is that mild steel is indeed hardenable to a limited degree varying with the carbon and manganese content, the cross section (thickness for practicale purposes,) and rapidity of the quench.
My reading of the sparks in this video suggests to me the mystery metal may be a low alloy structural steel, not A36 structural steel at all. It might very well be suited for heavy duty chopping tools like brush hooks, froes, wedges, pick axes, cleavers etc where a strong tough edge is preferred over a hard edge where chipping might be a concern.
It might be nice to learn the actual Rockwell C hardness of the test samples but that may not be necessary for back yard smithing. I suggest tests with a center punch struck with care for blow consistancy, and comparing impressions for depth etc as a means of comparative surface hardness.
I also suggest you hacksaw, file, hand polish to a smooth matte finish with clean wet of dry sand paper all three of you samples to obtain a flat cross section unaffected by heat (as from grinding.) Etch the samples with phosphoric acid (NOT muriatic or sulfuric) until dark with etching smut. My preferred etchant is metal surface prep solution. Take 10 to 30 minutes depending on merchant strength and temperature. Scrub the etched surface with clear water and a fingernail brush to expose clean but darkened metal. Examine under strong mangification like a 10X jeweler's loupe. Note differences in etched appearance between annealed and hardened sample. The annealed sample will be of uniform appearance. The hardened sample will shade from the center to the surface. This will tell you the "case" thickness attainable with the material represented but that particular sample.
Home metallurgy can be made to be quite sophisticated using simple low tech processes.
man you seem like a connoisseur in this subject. im from tunisia and i make butterfly knives ( i just started and only sold a couple) a customer complained that the edge broke and im looking for a solution to harden it even buy 10 percent im using mild steel (please dont ask why as i can go on a rant for hours on how not industrial my country is and i dont have a forge to blacksmith my own blades ..) long story short can you help me with suggesting whats the best solution for a slightly longer edge witout breaking? (he sent me a picture its actually bent/crushed in the blade)
Good vid, although I want to encourage you to forging in slippers. It is very clever and safe, you can be sure that hot sparks and scales won't ever burn your feet.
you dont necessarily need a lot of carbon for martensizing if the steel is martensitic. then it'll get hard. not sure about the edge retention
British Standard EN 1 is for low carbon steel. EN 8 is a basic medium carbon alloy steel with few alloying additives. EN 19 is a medium high alloy steel used for machine shafts etc. EN 24 is a high carbon alloy steel for hard heavy duty parts.
Indeed if you want comparable results, you should buy brand new steel stock from an official vendor. It is sold ready cut pieces, or cut by order. I got a steel plate from scrapyard, which turned out to be high carbon spring steel from a truck leaf spring, although it looked exactly like any scrap metal plate. The stuff sold in hardware stores and steel vendors is uniform in quality, for example S355 cold drawn in Europe. If you think that crap steel is used for construction, you are way off. Strict standards are used to sample every batch, because substandard steel can lead to collapse of structures, which is way worse than having a bad knife blade.
My bet is that was A32 structural steel if that was a piece of channel. Most big plants have their machinists and welders work with that. Oh and try using thinner pieces of steel for bend break tests to check the grain. Just my two cents.
Out of ALL the videos I've watched on this subject, telling you to heat the steel to this or that degree this was by FAR the most comprehensible. Thanks 👍
to case harden Mild steel you need to add carbon try enclosing your part in a source of carbon (powdered carbonised leather and salt ) then wrapping it in a clay wrap to make it air tight then heat it bright red /orange for 25 mins then break open the package and then quench in oil then you need to temper the part to a golden colour with a blowtorch careful not to let it go blue or all your hard work will be ruined
Never ever ever temper mild steel. You cannot get it hard enough to break. Just quench it. It is impossible to develop a super saturated Martensitic structure that will fail critically easy. Try it quenched and that's it. You can harden it.
Wood Mite Stove Company so mild steel is what exactly I’m new to this so I’m trying to find out things from people that sound like they know what they’re saying lol
Black hawk assault Bullet storm any low carbon. Usually 1018 or a36 variety. When you get it red give some time to soak and disolve carbides too don't just get hot and quench.
You can also impact/work harden it. If the blade geometry allows for it, you can use a large ball peen to hammer the edge by disrupting the lattice structure of the steel.
If you are not careful, you can introduce cracks in the blade, but the edge gets significantly harder.
To all in this thread, Mild Steel, from a scrap bin of a business that does fabrication and such. IS/ WAS it mild steel? Sparks hint towards it not being mild. A good test I would like to have seen is to have the sample/test piece cut in four and that fourth option not heated at all with the same basic tests shown.
On another note it is each to their own, I am not thrilled in the way the grinder is used in this, I prefer to have the sparks come to me and the machine if you allow it to grab, go the other way. I am aware it is the choice of all of us as to how we use our tools, I am also aware that people with no experience with tools be they young or older see these videos and may mistakenly think this is the way the Engineers that designed them intended them to be used. I think that would be wrong.
John, Australia.
Is it possible to make leaf spring from Mild steel Flat bar carbon contains approx. 0.17% by Heat treatment? please reply.
I was enjoying the
NO GUARD
SANDALS
.. Then the health and safety preaching started and the adverts 😭.... DO YOU REALLY WANT TO LIFE TO AN OLD AGE IN THIS SHIT HOLE WORLD ?!?!?
The most common type of steel for structural members (looks like a C channel there) is ASTM A36. Probably what you've got there. It's similar to 1018.
You should harden and heat treat that cleaver, then resharpen... Then go fruit ninja on those logs again.... For posterity of course.
As a "Tradesman" of Multiple Trades? I learned of an actual QC test named the "JEEP TEST!" believe it "or Not?" an inspector charged with inspecting my exothermic welds used a 2lb hammer and let the hammer fall an arm's length swing almost under almost it's own weight, if my weld survived with little to no signs of impact or damages, I passed. "Supposedly?" this test was named after the Hammers issued in WWII jeeps tool kits and a Seabee's test development for testing welds in the field.
mild steel is can be hardened after you finish to FORGING IT DO NOT GRIND FIRST BEFORE YOU IONIZE IT GRIND IT SLIGHTLY AFTER YOU IONIZE OR HADENED IN THE OIL BY SOAKING IT AFTER YOU REMOVE IN THE FIRE
Old video, but I think your confusing toughness and hardness. If it hardened at all then it would break unless it was tempered very very high. I believe the test made it tougher or the test is inaccurate. “Mild steel” is very unregulated to specifics. There is a large range of alloys that’s permitable, which will give different characteristics.
At 4:30 he's talking about the recrystallization temperature. When a metal reaches this temperature the crystalline structures within the metal begins to grow and merge with each other causing the metal to be softer and less brittle.
Dude you are gonna hurt yourself really bad . No gaurd and grinding with a slit disk . Get qnorher grinder . That way your not getting tempted to grind that tiny bit with a slit disk . Dude your face is worth it trust me
I need to start wearing my mask😷 I keep forgetting when I'm in a rush to finish a project
the dust mask looked perfectly fine. Of course the outside is going to be dirty, the inside was clean. A respirator will do nothing more than a dust mask except for filtering out fumes/chemicals
Even that depends on the mask, some of the better ones will filter out a lot of fumes as well.
That is not low carbon steel the Sparks look like it was something like a 4150. You should have been able to tell by grinding at it even look like it was difficult to slice off. that isn't even considered a medium steel that is a high carbon steel medium-high I think it is classified as but it looks exactly like the Sparks that I get off of 4150. You cannot harden low carb and cold rolled steel it doesn't work there's not enough carbon in it.
Wow. Unbelievable. Other than some general information, this was so, so, so WRONG. Just a hospital visit waiting to happen, not to mention what will happen to the boy when practicing bad teachings.
Missed the previous rebar vid - but relieved to see from the insert I am not the only one forging with flip flops! 😂
Mentions wearing mask but wearing flipflops while using forge , no guard on grinder , ?? Kid abit too near that flame , what example does this BS give too him ?? Wouldn't trust you with ANY tools , accident waiting to happen . Feckin Joke 😂
You must love Jehovah your God with all your heart and with all your soul and with all your mind and with all your strength. You must love your neighbor as yourself. Jesus the anointed is Lord! Repent and be baptized and believe the Gospel.
Apparently this guy has never witnessed a cutoff wheel fly off the grinder in pieces at warp 9 speeds. Get a guard dude, and also, cut with the sparks coming back to you and let the guard deflect them.
I wonder if anyone on UA-cam knows what a bandsaw or even a Sawzall is or do they just like to make sparks & take 20x longer while wasting grinding wheels.