Four important tips for better router rabbets
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- Опубліковано 9 гру 2018
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Whiteside rabbeting bit set: amzn.to/2EeIDar
Other rabbeting bit sets: amzn.to/2UA6jf2
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My rabbets are always off by a hare. . . Great tips! You are an excellent teacher!
Oh no, did I really just read that, AND NO ONE ELSE HAS REMARKED??? cheers...rr(plus I agree about Stumpy)
really sweet pun...
Nothin better than starting your day with a great pun! Good one KB! and great rabbeting tips too.
As Mork said, ARGH,ARGH,ARGH!!
Waslcally wabbets.
Thanks for a clear, short & concise tutorial. I can’t wait to try these techniques
Thanks for taking the time to gives us these tips for better cuts with rabbet bits
For my homemade router table, this video showed me exactly why I need to keep going and build a fence as well. Thanks!
Love the red wings cozy. Thanks for the great content!
Thank you Stumpy. Very useful information. I just purchased a rabbiting bit set so your video works out perfect for me. Great stuff always and I just stopped by my local Rockler store yesterday!
Excellent and timely. I’m having these problems now.
The shop updates look SNAZZY.
I have never had a dedicated bit but you convinced me it would help
As always, great tips. Thanks James.
I simply love this guy!!
Thank you for the tips. Good advice I will use in the near future.
New back ground looks good.
Oh ya! Nice bits!😏😏😏
Entertaining, informative content as always!
Just spent the past few days not cutting rabbets so much as say m@ssacreing them. Bugs Bunny wept. This is a really nice follow up to my playtime. They didn't need to be very good this time.
Great tip on the skim cut
Thank you! Excellent tips!
I've used a GraphGear 1000 pencil for years. Best mechanical pencil available. Love them.
Excellent explanation. Thank you!
Love your tips.
Liking the new shop look. I always click the link! Hope it helps.
You have great videos!
Very informative, thanks!
Thanks for sharing !
Thanks for the tips
Wow have you been busy or what a re alignment and anew order in the shop, Looks good until it's time to do it again and that day will come . Happy Trails
Thanks James.
Good one! Thanks.
good tips!
Thanks for sharing that
Great tips as always...cheers..rr
How can you make a handheld router fence? I have been struggling to figure out where to put a fence based on which width rabbeting bit I use
900th like, 'cause I like round metric numbers! ;)
Could have used this about 2 hours ago :-) Better late than never.
Informative, short, and excellent information... as normal. You do an excellent job at this Art.
I tend to cut shallow then either sand or hand plane to final line. Or just use my table saw lol.
Hey, I see you use my favorite mechanical pencil - the Graph Gear 1000. What size lead do you prefer - I find 9 mm small enough for most things and it flat out doesn’t break, but have 5mm on order.
At 6:10, the fine adjustment wheel on your router lift is turning. I don't have a cool router lift like that, so I was wondering if that was a problem.
Thanks for the videos!
Sharp eye! The actual screw was not moving, so it was not changing the position of the router, but it is interesting that the indicator wheel moves around...
The dial on top is meant to turn so you can zero it out with your fingers, then use it to measure how much you turn the actual mechanism beneath.
On a smaller scale LOL I want to rabbit the edge of kitchen doors to place glass inside. What bit would you recommend
Nice informative video. How about a video on entry level router tables by you sir. There are quite a few out there.
True Email I think that’s a fantastic idea
HI! Another great video, sir! Subscribed and liked! I have an Incra LS router system and have the capability of rabbeting larger panels (plywood carcasses mostly)and would both prefer to not use handheld routers or straight bits for rabbets in plywood, so I loved you're tip regarding dedicated bit sets and rabbeting nominal sized plywoods by applying tape to the fence face to dial-in a precise fit. It's genius! But, I'm wondering couldn't you just "nudge" the fence out (as you know, LS system micro-adjust is insanely accurate) INSTEAD of applying the tape to the fence? Physically nudging the fence out seems like the same as applying tape to the fence, both moving the wood slightly away from the cutter, right? Or am I missing something, here?
If you have a router table then you probably also have a table saw. Use the table saw to cut the rebate instead. Qucker, less dust, and you usually have an offcut that is potentially useful.
Yeah but flipping a large panel on it's edge is dangerous on a table saw, but you can just use a dado stack and a sacrificial fence, it will work either way.
A router is faster, more consistently repeatable, and better suited to large panels, especially if they aren't flat as many plywood panels aren't.
thanks
, I did a dado today on 3 sheets of ply. A weird thing happened though which I can't work out. The final dado of the 3 was actually closer to the edge piece( edge being against the fence,, hand held router not table) by about 2mm. Usually one would expect it to move inwards if say the fence comes loose. If you have an idea please share ;). Ps could not see the links below this video you mentioned.
Can you put a video on how to cut start/stop rabbet on a work piece with a router table? What is the safe way to do it?
I have to look at the old tool wall but holy hell do your planes and chisels look amazing laid out cleanly. Every tool in a row and easy to turn and grab. I know you've done best hand tools for new woodworkers but I want to know what your favorite hand tools you always go to for everything.
I see those Pentel mechanical pencils in many videos after Marc Wood Whisperer shows them off for Christmas gifts.
Excited for that joint video!
Chisels. I love chisels. I have a lot, but I use almost all of them. While I believe a woodworker can get by with two or three chisels, it's sure nice to have a bunch of different chisels for different uses. I have a set of Stanley sweethearts (newer version) for paring, a set of Stanley Baileys (newer version) for regular work, a set of Stanley Everlasting (early 1900's) for heavy chopping, a set of Wood River butt chisels for tight work, a set of Stanley Fat Max for outdoor projects, a set of Narex chisels for whatever, and a dovetail set that includes a pair of skew chisels and a couple IBC chisels. Throw in a few misc. paring chisels, classic mortising chisels etc and those are my favorite hand tools :)
Stumpy Nubs I too have both Bailey and 750 big sets. Irwins for the big ones for heavy blows. Aldi for rough wood and learning to sharpen. I have one beautiful Everlast that is my very favorite. Next purchase is pairing set when I need them and have an excuse to buy yet more chisels. Forgot my Robert Sorby mourtise chisels. Bought those AFTER I mortised a bunch of things
Can't figure out what brand your red handled ones with shapely silver bolsters. They look well used.
No brand. I got them at a small hardware in my area years ago. People always think they are the finest chisels on my rack. I think I paid $10 for the three piece set. :)
Where's the promised link re: making custom router bases? I just did a project w/ polycarbonate sheet and I have a leaved-over piece about the right size, I think. Am I expected to be bright enough to go looking for that other video all by myself? Dang - THAT'S a STRETCH!
(Cereally, though - thanks for another insightful one!!!)
Now, coming back to see if this had an answer, it seems that I probably implied that NOTHING was serious in my query. Oh well. Fact is, the router in question was given to me, without a base, so I never had the original for a template or clue to its design. Can't be TOO difficult, yeah, BUT -- of the several bolt (machine screw) holes in the METAL base, the biggest and beefiest have countersink tapers in the metal, which doesn't make any sense to me. The four that do NOT - well, they're only 4mm and in a totally whacked pattern that defies simple geometric layout. So I've managed to make one that KINDA fits, but it's not as pretty as I had hoped. And I'm still bewilderfied by the big countersunk, threaded holes. Me no savvy, bwana.
Of course I find your video the day after I cut freehand rabbets
Nordic Pine 3/4" 0.71 is so convenient.
Now I find this video after messing up all my router work. When I got to the corner the router ran around the corner.
fancy updated background
Everybody wants support.
Nice video. Is there a rabbeting bit specifically for undersized plywood?
You have to look around but some online suppliers offer them in straight bits. I think the assumption with rebate bits is that you can cut the work piece oversized and then trim the excess off with a flush trim bit once the thing is assembled - you just have to buy 2 bits.
This is Garry not Linda. When I worked in a machine shop we did a LOT of work with metric specs that were converted to US. Most things were numerical so it was really easy. I never understood the explanation for the reasoning behind it. All I got out of it was that Imperial is more accurate than metric. That was until just last week. The reason why is that metric is divided by ten so the smallest division is 1/5". Imperial is divided by 12 so the smallest division is by 6 allowing 1/3, 1/4, 1/8, 1/32 and so on. Don't take my word for it check out the "Origins of Precision" video on the Machine Thinking You Tube channel. Once you are there check out the other videos like the first precision lathe, cutting threads and several others. I've watched every video but one. This guy has the knack to take a bore you to tears subject and make it interesting.
Try using any measuring tool and you'll find that is absolute fiction. Take a digital caliper for example. Measurements can be taken to almost any level of decimal places.
Are floating desks worth it?
Need the link to the base plate video : C
Production shops must run several router tables so as not to be constantly changing bits and dialing in height. Any recommendations for a quality set up that dials in height easily? I finally got a little porter cable router table to attach my big porter cable plunge router to. To say Im disappointed is an understatement. The router does not easily adjust to desired height and after one pass the lock lever vibrates loose and height changes mid pass. I know I need to fuss with that lever to eliminate slippage but this set up I have seems like super low end equipment. A true Craftsman can work wonders with less than ideal tools and average Joe can turn out junk on top of the line equipment however Id just prefer tools that are relatively easy to dial in. Obviously I have very little experience with routers but I have high expectations and am not at even close to achieving my desired results. I’d like to produce some beautiful pieces including custom doors and windows.
Sounds like you need a dedicated router motor in a router lift.
👍
I won't need to be so precise, I just need to recess quarter inch plywood in 3/4" plywood for the back of a dresser I'm building. Has to be done by hand, piece too big for table. Still, thank you for the tips.
i thought there was a link for doing rabbets in frames?
Where were these tips a month ago?:-) I was struggling to get rabbets cut for Christmas gifts
Hopefully this christmas gifts will go smoother ;)
Hey Stump - the Rockler link above no longer works. It may be a promo that is expired.
I tried to use the rockler link ...and it’s no longer active. I thought I should mention it.
Heads up your affiliate link for rocker is a dead link
Trying to find a bit to cut a three-quarter rabbit
amzn.to/3hycNHj
@@StumpyNubs thanks for your time
Wait, a handheld router with a fence? How does that work?
Most handheld routers come with fences that attach to the base. Some people call them edge guides.
@@StumpyNubs ohh, I do have a metal edge guide, I honestly think I'm not using it right. It's metal, but should I screw wood to it?
@@StumpyNubs nevermind lol. Watched a video on how to use the guide. I was just trying to use the edge guide on its own, and installed it backwards at that. Yikes, I'm new. The use of it makes so much more sense now. Thanks for the response!
We've all been there :)
If I got bad rabbets, I'd ask for a rebate.
Huh? Most Americans aren't multi-lingual like you. Heck, most can scarcely get by faking English!
First! :)
Rebates
Not in America.
May be time for the U.S.A to catch up with the rest of the world and convert to metric measurements. It's You have a metric monetary system already so keeping Imperial for everything else is a bit strange. Your plywood suppliers obviously prefer metric. It's so much simpler.
Not really, I understand it's in multiples of 10 but man, trying to wrap your head around another system when you were taught standard measurements is not the easiest thing to do. It would be like us asking the rest of the world to use standard measurements when they use metric. Oh and lumber suppliers use standard measurements here, they just cheat you out of 1/4 inch on all stock or 1/2 inch depending on what you are looking at.
I will convert when I am dead
People outside the USA seem to think that everything is Imperial measurements here. Not true. There are LOTS of metric measurements used. Every hardware store that I've been to here has both metric and imperial bolts, nuts, etc. What could be more 'merican than an F-250 Superduty diesel pickup truck? Lots of metric bolt heads and threads throughout this truck. I have as many metric tools as I do imperial tools (maybe more). I also have two metric tape measures (Fastcap True 32) and my PEC combination square has metric scales on it (down to 1/2 mm) as well as imperial scales (down to 1/64 inch). I am every bit as comfortable using metric as I am imperial. I don't see any personal benefit from switching from gallons to liters when refueling my vehicles, or judging my vehicles speed in kph vs mph, but when it comes to woodworking I sometimes choose to use metric exclusively for a project. 32mm cabinetry is a prime example where it would be foolish to try to convert that to imperial measurements--stick to metric. As far as "superiority" of one system over another--IMO that's just a waste of time and energy. Each system has its merits. Believe me that corporations won't hesitate to make decisions that save them money, so the reason that there are still lots of imperial measurements used here is that corporations have crunched the numbers and decided that changing in their circumstance doesn't save them money. I like metric and I like imperial too.
Our suppliers don't prefer metric. They just buy plywood from Europe and Asia where metric is used.
I for one like that we Americans do not do everything as the rest of the world does.
bro your Rockler link is a dead link
Works when I click it, Bro.
275 lol
The solution is: Buy METRIC bits.
SAE, or so-called "imperial" is an anachronism. Only holdouts in the world: Liberia, Myanmar (Burma) and the US.
One thing we can say is, we are in good company, indeed...
Dude,what fun is that!?! Doing the math conversions is the fun part!😁