Did I miss something? Isn't the issue on vintage tuners? Why, then, did they show us how to restring with the non-vintage tuners? I'm confused as to how to even do this correctly on vintage tuners if you're not supposed to cut the string until it's up to tension.
If you catch the string between two layers of wraps, in addition to the crimp you made you’ll compress the string with the tension you add, holding the string in place on the tuning post. Thus increasing tuning stability. Basically making a luthiers knot.
Sure thing, happy to help! If you're ever interested in trying an upgrade to those, our Broadways are a similar option but with a few added benefits in terms of playability and consistency. But regardless, use this technique for any round core string and you'll be in the clear 👌
I never paid attention to hex or round or never really knew there was a different core. What I can say after playing elixir strings for years I went to Throbak and now Stringjoy. Tested both round vs hex and in both cases I preferred the hex. Just sounded better all around. Now stringjoy hex 9.5s are my go to
I was aware of the sonic difference between hex and round core, but never gave any thought to the installation process. I hadn't put a 90° bend on wound strings before cutting them, so I will have to remember to do this. Old dog learns a new trick!
Thank you! I already knew this, but good info for everyone. Since you do a lot on all nit picky topics on strings, you might as well do one of the benefits/drawbacks of SOLDERING the strings. I do this on roundcore strings, instead of "crimping a kink" first. I do solder the plains back at the ball end too. At the twist. To all the headless users out there, double ball end strings is a tremendous reason to skip all this extra process. You can make them roundcore as they are shut and closed at either end, since it has double ball ends, and keeps them from unravelling. The difference in round core is that they do have slighter less tension. They do have "milder zzing" to them, and pronounced mids. They do NOT snap as often, since no hex core edges bites/chews into the wrap, especially at the tuner posts, nut, and saddle bridges. It's correct that vintage strings was like that, pure nickel and round wound, but don't forget they came at 012 sets too, AND not to be forgotten, totally flatwound too. Roundwounds came in the 60s, or at least became more popular then.
Thanks for watching! I don't believe any company makes double ball round core strings but I could be wrong. I don't understand how soldering would replace the kink in securing a round core though. Some people do solder at the twist, but with properly made strings this really isn't necessary. Roundwounds did precede hex cores (on the guitar side at least). Roundwound strings have been around since the days of gut strings. Where I think you're getting that from is that roundwound *bass* strings didn't become popular until the 60s, but this was not the case for other instruments.
@@Stringjoy Thanks for a reply. Do a blog on soldering twists anyway. England small company Newtone really do make strings customized to your wishes. Even different core to ratio on the same gauges. They do double ball end strings roundcore as an option, of which you can choose either (hex, roundcore). D'addario makes "presoldered twists" now, since som short time back. I agree, that if you do the twists properly from the start on this isn't needed, but most companies doesn't. Regarding soldering up there, instead of a kink, I do squeeze (deformation) the wounds a bit first (clamp) with pliers and then solder. It locks the windings from unraveling later on. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Since you brought the topic up of bass strings, I have a topic that I have yet to get any authorative answer from any string manufacturers. Why are they still adamant on keeping the red silk wrap at the ends of bass strings? Or any color, the silk wrap as such? When you buy a string set, there's absolutely no way of knowing that the red silk wrap will not go over the nut way into the speaking length of the string, as well as back at the bridge, letting the silk wrap going way into and over the bridge saddles due to too short length behind the saddle. Why why why? I e silk wrapped strings just fits one or two bass models out there.
@@Stringjoy and @henkehakansson2004 I'm wanting to use a string somewhere from .16-.179" as the thickest string on a bass, and wondering if I can partially unwind it if necessary. Said Too Much Productions said he puts "a glob of solder" on the partially unwound string. Also, I heard the B0 string has to be untwisted (not to be confused with unwound) before being pulled to tension, or it won't sound correctly. If that's true, then at what gauge does that start being necessary?
@@henkehakansson2004 If you search bass forums, people complain that without silk, bass strings tend to damage tuning heads, and/or finish adjacent to them if you wind to the bottom.
I got this all the way up to the 'bend it up' comment (after getting the string through the hole). Not sure if this bend occurs below or above the 90 degree angle.
Thank you! A GtrCenter tech turned me on to y'all for my Bass VI. Since then you've helped me select strings for a compensated wrap-around tail piece (a modern Jr). You help us with our *stringed* instruments; I needed to learn today's lesson! Oh yeah, the strings sound great, stay in tune immediately, and feel perfect.
Surely the hex core can keep the winding more firmly avoid slippery stuff but since the hex core has sharp edges then it can damage or CUT the inner surface of the winding
Thanks again for another informative video, Scott. Never strayed too far from your trusty Signatures, and other hex-core strings before finding you, but I'm tempted to throw a pack in on my next order now and see how they play!
Yep! You're not alone, I know of a few "boutique" string companies that don't even know about this and make round core strings with loose wraps-it's no good.
Great now make Broadway sets for a Bass VI. BUT on the Condition: The Low E string is large than 0.092" Those D'Addarrios with the0.085" that Fender Pawnshop Series had were just atrocious! D-G-B-high E were all perfectly balanced, but the low E was weak and muddy and lacked Bass. Now to order strings from You. Sincerely Mike B. B. From Philly, P.A. U.S.A.
Great question, yes with locking tuners if you do it just like you said you should be good. It's still not a bad idea to go the bend before inserting, but if you don't and you don't cut it until everything is locked I think you'll be fine.
Hello, could you please explain the opposite process. I have the guitar with round core strings which are pretty new. I would like to remove them from guitar A to guitar B, without "deadening"them. Could you please advice how to remove them from guitar A, without slipping the winding from the core.
Taking used strings off one guitar and putting rhem on another is a bad idea. You will likely break strings and draw blood in the process. They simply aren't designed to be used that way. Buy another pack of strings.
The Locking Tuner itself does the same than making a Twist/Kink if its a good one, like Gotoh 360 Magnum & you tight it up enough. I recommend still doing the 90 degree twist and then locking the string and clipping the excess right after the kink, just leave tiny bit of kink after locking Tuner. DR's for example needs to be installed different way than hexcores. Seen a lot of dead strings.
The bend that you put in the low E string is how I was told to install my bass strings. Are bass strings typically round core also or are they hex core?
What do you suggest for using round core with Grover locking tuners? I just ordered a set of round core for my Les Paul (waiting on delivery) and have never changed the original strings using the Grover tuners. Do you still suggest to put the 90 degree bend in them? Thanks hope you see this or someone has an answer.
OMG I was afraid I was the only person with a 7 year old's mentality!!! "he said doodoo!" was running through my warped brain for the rest of the video.
Not "better", they sound and play different. Round cores tend to have a warmer tone and a more flexible feel. Hex cores can be a touch more focused tonally and a bit stiffer. As with all things gear, there are many options and it's all about finding the one that suits you best.
Stringjoy Would you say it more feel focused difference compared to tone? Or is tone also a major reason people would pick them? Do people ever mix hex core and round core for a custom set, or would that be a disaster?
@@EsharpGflat It's both, but tonally it's a more subtle difference coming from the core itself. But, it's one ingredient on coming up with a string line and we change several ingredients to make a line perform the way we want to-so our Broadways and Signatures are different in terms of wrap wire, core to cover ratio, core diameter, and gauging, all of which add up to a pretty sizable change. If you kept every other feature the same and swapped only core shape, the tonal differences would be on the subtler end-real, just subtle to many players' ears. I've not seen anyone mix them in a custom set on purpose-but GHS Boomers for example do mix core shapes, I believe they use round for gauges .024 through .060 and hex for lighter and heavier wound strings.
It wasn't clear (to me, at least) if you had vintage tuners on this particular guitar. Other videos say you should make a sharp angle, cut the string, place it in the (vintage-style) tuner and wind. But even those videos aren't clear about how the wrap goes. In short, I'm still confused. lol
Did I miss something? Isn't the issue on vintage tuners? Why, then, did they show us how to restring with the non-vintage tuners? I'm confused as to how to even do this correctly on vintage tuners if you're not supposed to cut the string until it's up to tension.
I believe he said that round core strings are vintage type strings. I didn't hear anything about tuners.
@@bryantcochran5065 Listen again around 5:17
If you catch the string between two layers of wraps, in addition to the crimp you made you’ll compress the string with the tension you add, holding the string in place on the tuning post. Thus increasing tuning stability. Basically making a luthiers knot.
This channel has send me down a whole new rabbit whole. Thanks
Thank you thank you thank you, for this info. Just bought some DRs and I was completely confused. I appreciate you sharing this knowledge.
Sure thing, happy to help! If you're ever interested in trying an upgrade to those, our Broadways are a similar option but with a few added benefits in terms of playability and consistency. But regardless, use this technique for any round core string and you'll be in the clear 👌
I never paid attention to hex or round or never really knew there was a different core. What I can say after playing elixir strings for years I went to Throbak and now Stringjoy. Tested both round vs hex and in both cases I preferred the hex. Just sounded better all around. Now stringjoy hex 9.5s are my go to
One wrap above the protruding string end, the rest below will lock that on the peg nicely too.
I was aware of the sonic difference between hex and round core, but never gave any thought to the installation process. I hadn't put a 90° bend on wound strings before cutting them, so I will have to remember to do this. Old dog learns a new trick!
Just put these in my esp. Definitely liking these.
That's one cool practical history lesson
Glad you dug it!
Thank you! I already knew this, but good info for everyone. Since you do a lot on all nit picky topics on strings, you might as well do one of the benefits/drawbacks of SOLDERING the strings. I do this on roundcore strings, instead of "crimping a kink" first. I do solder the plains back at the ball end too. At the twist. To all the headless users out there, double ball end strings is a tremendous reason to skip all this extra process. You can make them roundcore as they are shut and closed at either end, since it has double ball ends, and keeps them from unravelling.
The difference in round core is that they do have slighter less tension. They do have "milder zzing" to them, and pronounced mids. They do NOT snap as often, since no hex core edges bites/chews into the wrap, especially at the tuner posts, nut, and saddle bridges. It's correct that vintage strings was like that, pure nickel and round wound, but don't forget they came at 012 sets too, AND not to be forgotten, totally flatwound too. Roundwounds came in the 60s, or at least became more popular then.
Thanks for watching! I don't believe any company makes double ball round core strings but I could be wrong. I don't understand how soldering would replace the kink in securing a round core though. Some people do solder at the twist, but with properly made strings this really isn't necessary.
Roundwounds did precede hex cores (on the guitar side at least). Roundwound strings have been around since the days of gut strings. Where I think you're getting that from is that roundwound *bass* strings didn't become popular until the 60s, but this was not the case for other instruments.
@@Stringjoy Thanks for a reply. Do a blog on soldering twists anyway. England small company Newtone really do make strings customized to your wishes. Even different core to ratio on the same gauges. They do double ball end strings roundcore as an option, of which you can choose either (hex, roundcore). D'addario makes "presoldered twists" now, since som short time back. I agree, that if you do the twists properly from the start on this isn't needed, but most companies doesn't.
Regarding soldering up there, instead of a kink, I do squeeze (deformation) the wounds a bit first (clamp) with pliers and then solder. It locks the windings from unraveling later on.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Since you brought the topic up of bass strings, I have a topic that I have yet to get any authorative answer from any string manufacturers. Why are they still adamant on keeping the red silk wrap at the ends of bass strings? Or any color, the silk wrap as such? When you buy a string set, there's absolutely no way of knowing that the red silk wrap will not go over the nut way into the speaking length of the string, as well as back at the bridge, letting the silk wrap going way into and over the bridge saddles due to too short length behind the saddle. Why why why? I e silk wrapped strings just fits one or two bass models out there.
@@Stringjoy and @henkehakansson2004 I'm wanting to use a string somewhere from .16-.179" as the thickest string on a bass, and wondering if I can partially unwind it if necessary. Said Too Much Productions said he puts "a glob of solder" on the partially unwound string.
Also, I heard the B0 string has to be untwisted (not to be confused with unwound) before being pulled to tension, or it won't sound correctly. If that's true, then at what gauge does that start being necessary?
@@773Spair Good question there Spair! I wonder that too..
@@henkehakansson2004 If you search bass forums, people complain that without silk, bass strings tend to damage tuning heads, and/or finish adjacent to them if you wind to the bottom.
What about locking tuners?
I got this all the way up to the 'bend it up' comment (after getting the string through the hole). Not sure if this bend occurs below or above the 90 degree angle.
What about Floyd Rose guitars? You have to cut both ends, how do you solve that problem on the side that goes into the bridge?
I would assume the locking nut clamps the winding and same at the saddle.
Thank you! A GtrCenter tech turned me on to y'all for my Bass VI. Since then you've helped me select strings for a compensated wrap-around tail piece (a modern Jr). You help us with our *stringed* instruments; I needed to learn today's lesson! Oh yeah, the strings sound great, stay in tune immediately, and feel perfect.
Glad you found us Bill!
Surely the hex core can keep the winding more firmly avoid slippery stuff but since the hex core has sharp edges then it can damage or CUT the inner surface of the winding
when your plectrum impacts against the string, if there's an hex core inside, the winding will get damaged faster than a wrapped round core string
Thanks again for another informative video, Scott. Never strayed too far from your trusty Signatures, and other hex-core strings before finding you, but I'm tempted to throw a pack in on my next order now and see how they play!
sharing this with my band group
I always wondered why the wrap wire didn't unwind
Yep! You're not alone, I know of a few "boutique" string companies that don't even know about this and make round core strings with loose wraps-it's no good.
Also use the same bend when using flat wounds...
Good tip guys. I assume this would be a non-issue with locking tuners, correct?
Correct! So long as you didn't slip the string before locking it in.
@@Stringjoy Slip or snip?
I learned this from playing DRs on my bass (sry I didn't know about you!)... but I like your videos so I watched anyhow =)
No offense taken! Yeah with round core bass strings in particularly the opportunity for wrap slippage is pretty worrisome.
Great now make Broadway sets for a Bass VI.
BUT on the Condition: The Low E string is large than 0.092"
Those D'Addarrios with the0.085" that Fender Pawnshop Series had were just atrocious!
D-G-B-high E were all perfectly balanced, but the low E was weak and muddy and lacked Bass.
Now to order strings from You.
Sincerely
Mike B. B. From Philly, P.A. U.S.A.
Same for locking tuners?
Yep!
What about vintage fender tuners?
The same ethos applies, put a sharp kink in the string where it will insert into the tuner, then cut it after the kink.
What about locking tuners? I typically drag the string tightly through the tuning peg, lock it in, and then clip of the excess.
Great question, yes with locking tuners if you do it just like you said you should be good. It's still not a bad idea to go the bend before inserting, but if you don't and you don't cut it until everything is locked I think you'll be fine.
Hello, could you please explain the opposite process. I have the guitar with round core strings which are pretty new. I would like to remove them from guitar A to guitar B, without "deadening"them. Could you please advice how to remove them from guitar A, without slipping the winding from the core.
Taking used strings off one guitar and putting rhem on another is a bad idea. You will likely break strings and draw blood in the process. They simply aren't designed to be used that way. Buy another pack of strings.
So I'm assuming these are not best for Floyd Rose style guitars where you would cut the ball end off..?
Correct. Round core wound strings are not recommended for Floyd Rose guitars, as the locking trem was developed when hex core strings were the norm.
Does this mean it’s not going to work with a jazzmaster?
Great tip, thanks!
Our pleasure!
If you use locking tuners do you have to worry about this?
The Locking Tuner itself does the same than making a Twist/Kink if its a good one, like Gotoh 360 Magnum & you tight it up enough.
I recommend still doing the 90 degree twist and then locking the string and clipping the excess right after the kink, just leave tiny bit of kink after locking Tuner.
DR's for example needs to be installed different way than hexcores.
Seen a lot of dead strings.
"That would be very painful" and bring new meaning to the term 'shredding' :-)
The bend that you put in the low E string is how I was told to install my bass strings. Are bass strings typically round core also or are they hex core?
In modern times like today hex cores are more or less the norm although you can find some round core bass strings around.
La Bella DTFs are hex core.
What do you suggest for using round core with Grover locking tuners? I just ordered a set of round core for my Les Paul (waiting on delivery) and have never changed the original strings using the Grover tuners. Do you still suggest to put the 90 degree bend in them? Thanks hope you see this or someone has an answer.
You would still do the kink, put in it in your grover to the kink and then tighten the grover..you should be fine
I LIKE THIS VIDEO
This has never happened to me before. Been playing DR tite fit for 20 years
Well that's good at least. You'll notice DR provides the same warning, it's printed on the inside of every single box of DR strings.
3:38 You doodoo, Scott doodoos, we all doodoo.
OMG I was afraid I was the only person with a 7 year old's mentality!!! "he said doodoo!" was running through my warped brain for the rest of the video.
This is maybe my favorite comment we've ever received
So why would anyone want round core strings when hex solves this issue? Does round core sound better?
Not "better", they sound and play different. Round cores tend to have a warmer tone and a more flexible feel. Hex cores can be a touch more focused tonally and a bit stiffer. As with all things gear, there are many options and it's all about finding the one that suits you best.
Stringjoy Would you say it more feel focused difference compared to tone? Or is tone also a major reason people would pick them? Do people ever mix hex core and round core for a custom set, or would that be a disaster?
@@Stringjoy Thanks for te reply.
@@EsharpGflat It's both, but tonally it's a more subtle difference coming from the core itself. But, it's one ingredient on coming up with a string line and we change several ingredients to make a line perform the way we want to-so our Broadways and Signatures are different in terms of wrap wire, core to cover ratio, core diameter, and gauging, all of which add up to a pretty sizable change. If you kept every other feature the same and swapped only core shape, the tonal differences would be on the subtler end-real, just subtle to many players' ears.
I've not seen anyone mix them in a custom set on purpose-but GHS Boomers for example do mix core shapes, I believe they use round for gauges .024 through .060 and hex for lighter and heavier wound strings.
Stringjoy Interesting ideas, thanks for the reply!
What about using round core on vintage style Fender split tuners?
Same story as explained in the video, make a sharp bend in the string before you cut it. to insert it in the tuner.
It wasn't clear (to me, at least) if you had vintage tuners on this particular guitar. Other videos say you should make a sharp angle, cut the string, place it in the (vintage-style) tuner and wind. But even those videos aren't clear about how the wrap goes. In short, I'm still confused. lol
No you said it right, for vintage tuners you make the angle, then cut the string, then insert it into the holer.
i want to change the stings of my guitar, its broken
Hex Core sounds like a variation of mathcore. :)
the C chord is difficult to fix
i go to shop to fix it lolo
5:14
thanks now my money will be saved though
Great.5 minutes of blah blah
1 minute of kind of info in a sort of seven minute video
@@clarencevickrot3531yep
yep