Pretty cool , so you just warm up thr material and dump the print inside for a few minutes ? Or is it like cooper plating that you need a nickle.anode ?
No, but technically it should be identical in process(except that Electroless Copper does not require high heat). Did you purchase their Kit? What seem to be the issue? By the Way, click Like and Subscribe.
@@nicamarvin thanks, I’d love for you to upload more videos on it if possible. I’m currently in the middle of a big project where the final thing where to be plate it some way, and I just have a hard time convincing myself to get behind electroplating because of the amount of work it is. Very interested in the electroless route
@@nicamarvin are you referring to the paint that actually deposits a layer of metal? If so, then yes. The main thing I need for this project is just for all of the parts to be covered in a thin layer of metal
@@jacquescoury2979 No, I was talking about Chrome paint like Alclad which can give a very good looks but it's not conductive. Can you give more details of the requirements? I have experience in many fields and might be able to help you further.
Hi Marvin! What material are you 3D printing with? I'm trying to electroless nickel plate some ABS parts I printed using the Caswell system, and I haven't had any luck so far, even with the torch + sensitizer + rinse + activator + reducer + ez-plate process.
@@nicamarvin Thanks for the reply! Yes, nothing is sticking to the ABS. Sometimes I get a tiny amount of plating, but only at the corners. I am plating around 185°F, all other steps I'm curently doing at room temperature (around 64°F). 2 mins in the sensitizer, distilled water rinse, 2 mins in the activator, reducer rinse, plating bath for many minutes (but no color change). I did have some luck a month or so ago with plating vacuum formed ABS pieces before Caswell sent me the reducer solution, but I could never get 100% coverage on the pieces and often ended up with spots or stripes where the plating wouldn't take. I was hoping the reducer would solve my problems but haven't had any luck so far unfortunately.
@@CoolNamesAllTaken I suspect that their Sensitizer could be the culprit. Make your own batch with Stannous chloride 10 grams per Liter. 5 minutes on the Sensitizer, Rinse, 5 minutes on the activator and skip the rinse just go strait to the plating bath.
@@nicamarvin Thanks for the advice! I don't currently have Tin (II) chloride available, but I can get some. I'm currently using the sensitizer solution from Caswell. Is there any way that I could tell whether my sensitizer is working properly (pH etc) before I make my own batch?
chemical nickel plating
Any chemical use
Pretty cool , so you just warm up thr material and dump the print inside for a few minutes ? Or is it like cooper plating that you need a nickle.anode ?
It needs Heat to start the chemical process.
@nicamarvin pretty cool , and after you just dip it in ?
@@PlatingPulse23 That's it. At least for aesthetic purposes.
have you ever used the cooper one, i am currently trying to coat superHDT hot material from a resin printer with no luck.
No, but technically it should be identical in process(except that Electroless Copper does not require high heat). Did you purchase their Kit? What seem to be the issue? By the Way, click Like and Subscribe.
@@nicamarvin when plasced into the copper solution it does not bubble and the coating takes houres. i have made sure to clean it and everything
@@user-ee6be4qn2o Chances are that the Sensitizer has gone bad. You can make your own. Disolve 20 grams of stannous Chloride in 1L of Di water.
I was worried when you have to heat the materials it would cause the printed pieces to warp/melt, you found this not to be an issue?
The temperature makes the 3D prints softer while being plated, but its only for a short period. And it goes back to normal once it cool down
@@nicamarvin thanks, I’d love for you to upload more videos on it if possible. I’m currently in the middle of a big project where the final thing where to be plate it some way, and I just have a hard time convincing myself to get behind electroplating because of the amount of work it is. Very interested in the electroless route
Have you concidered Chrome paint? When done properly it's pretty good, I will make a video of that pretty soon too.@@jacquescoury2979
@@nicamarvin are you referring to the paint that actually deposits a layer of metal? If so, then yes. The main thing I need for this project is just for all of the parts to be covered in a thin layer of metal
@@jacquescoury2979 No, I was talking about Chrome paint like Alclad which can give a very good looks but it's not conductive. Can you give more details of the requirements? I have experience in many fields and might be able to help you further.
Hi Marvin! What material are you 3D printing with? I'm trying to electroless nickel plate some ABS parts I printed using the Caswell system, and I haven't had any luck so far, even with the torch + sensitizer + rinse + activator + reducer + ez-plate process.
wow, that sounds terrible. Nothing is sticking to the ABS?
What are your temperatures?
@@nicamarvin Thanks for the reply! Yes, nothing is sticking to the ABS. Sometimes I get a tiny amount of plating, but only at the corners. I am plating around 185°F, all other steps I'm curently doing at room temperature (around 64°F). 2 mins in the sensitizer, distilled water rinse, 2 mins in the activator, reducer rinse, plating bath for many minutes (but no color change).
I did have some luck a month or so ago with plating vacuum formed ABS pieces before Caswell sent me the reducer solution, but I could never get 100% coverage on the pieces and often ended up with spots or stripes where the plating wouldn't take. I was hoping the reducer would solve my problems but haven't had any luck so far unfortunately.
@@CoolNamesAllTaken I suspect that their Sensitizer could be the culprit. Make your own batch with Stannous chloride 10 grams per Liter. 5 minutes on the Sensitizer, Rinse, 5 minutes on the activator and skip the rinse just go strait to the plating bath.
@@nicamarvin Thanks for the advice! I don't currently have Tin (II) chloride available, but I can get some. I'm currently using the sensitizer solution from Caswell. Is there any way that I could tell whether my sensitizer is working properly (pH etc) before I make my own batch?
@@CoolNamesAllTaken The only way to know if it's gone bad is when it stop working, meaning you no longer get plating