Curbless Shower Installation Wood Subfloor | Part 2
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- We will pick up where we left off after part 1. The recessed area is ready for the pan to be installed, but for the height to be correct we must install the Ditra first. Installing the Ditra is fast and easy so I went ahead and left it as part of the video.
Once the Ditra is installed we placed the shower pan where it goes upside down. We placed it upside down so that it was a flat work surface. The tiles weren’t cut yet and I had some concern the slope might make it more difficult to layout properly.
Once the pattern of the tile was established we set out to trace the drain and slope lines. The tray slopes from the four corners of the drain to the corners of the pan. Once we knew where the drain was to be located we simply used a straight edge to draw our slope lines.
The video ends with the tile dry laid on the installed shower pan. The next video will show how we installed and waterproofed the pan as well as installing the bathroom floor tile as well.
Be sure to subscribe to our channel and click the bell icon to keep updated with our latest videos. We serve all of Mid-Missouri, call (573) 289-1045 to schedule your consultation today.
What do you think of the benefits of a curbless shower? Is this an upgrade you would consider for your home?
EJ Flooring & Custom Tile Installation easyer to sell the house old folks like it
I think with a curbless shower you can save a lot of money. I just did a corner shower with curb. The foam curbs from schluter cost about $100 (2 pieces). And also the shower door for this setup had to have 2 walls, whereas if going curbless I could get away with only 1 glass pane, since water would just float back in even if it gets out, and that could be up to $600 cheaper than 2 panes. Lastly I had to level out the substrate with self leveling compound for the foam shower pan and for curbless I could just level it by notching out the plywood, so that saves a few bucks on the compound. Shame I didn't know about the curbless option until only recently, haha
@@jw1731 I charge a minimum of $1,000 to recess a shower pan. Recessing a shower floor does add about a day in labor plus lumber for support. There are some benefits that also occur (the lack of a curb being the obvious one), but a curbless shower is still a nice upgrade. Upgrades cost more money, not less. Thank you for responding, I love the interaction.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy What do you recommend for sanding the cut edges would be shown in the middle of the project, such as in this case? I tried use sanding stone and file but they don't see to do much. Not sure if it's the glaze on the tile I bought or I'm doing something wrong. I got diamond sanding pads for an angle grinder some time ago but didn't get to use it for the recent project. Thanks.
@@jw1731 the sanding sponge you have will take the edge off the tile, that’s all you should need. If there’s chips on the cut from the saw, you likely need to dress the blade to eliminate those. The sanding sponge is just to knock the sharp edge off, it’s not aggressive enough to remove chips. Not without a lot of elbow grease anyway.
My friend that s amazing way to do a curbless shower. . .
Thank you
Dude was like, “let’s put every shitty free UA-cam music sample in this video!”
I stopped adding music to my videos a long time ago
Very good video, if I had you put it in my bathroom, I would have ordered heated flooring but I'm in East TN!!
+norrisonian thank you for the compliment. We have traveled for work before, East Tennessee would be preferable if my Mizzou Tigers are in town that weekend. Heated floors are great for any tile floor.
I hate it when it's faster for me to get up from setting tile and making the cuts myself, versus having a slow helper.
+Travis k Brent isn’t slow, I just wanted to cut the tile. Truth be told, he’s better at cutting than me and I wanted to try cutting the drain out first (we’ve not tried an envelope tile drain cut before). I know he could do it but the mud was slaking, so I had him record me.
I noticed in this video that the Kerdi board on the walls are NOT supported by the recommended screws spacing that Schluter says to do. Did you wet shim the panels? if so please explain how you did this.
I don’t remember if this job is wet shimmed or not. If you watch part 3 the fasteners are much easier to see. Certainly follow manufacturers instructions over anything we do. Schluter is the final authority, I’m not claiming to be perfect.
Lotta hating but these guys make a good video and thanks for the content!
Thank you for the great compliment, I appreciate it.
Nice video guys !!
+Diego Bruto do Brasil Thank you
The two plates where put in place when the studded wall was put in place to prevent it from going past plum.
Makes sense
Nice job!
+phoenix h Thank you
Did you use thin set mortar underneath the schluter shower pan?
Great question, thank you. We use Schluter Set mortar for the whole installation. This includes setting the shower pan in a bed of mortar as well.
Who picked out the tile for the pan? Was there a decorator involves?
Homeowner picked the tile
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy that's what I figured. Thanks have a good day
Is the entire washroom floor sloping towards the shower drain or is it level? Just the shower pan is sloped?
That’s a great question, thanks for asking. Only the shower floor is sloped, everything else remains flat. We do waterproof the floor immediately outside the shower in case any water gets beyond the slope. This prevents damage to the surrounding area.
Nice video.i have a questions.After you underneath foam to subfloor.the foam will up a little because the mortar between foam and subfloor. How far will up?
1/2 the thickness of the notch is the buildup. 1/4” notch will raise the floor 1/8” if done properly.
I am in the middle of a shower demo to do a curbless shower. I have heard a capillary break around the shower pan would be beneficial, but don't see it done here. Do you think it's something to consider?
I’m trying to understand what a capillary break would look like in this situation. Capillary breaks (to my understanding anyway is a separation between the wall and floor. Banding the wall to floor as instructed would eliminate the capillary break in my mind. Am I understanding this correctly?
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy How it was described to me is a break between the tile in the shower and the tile outside the glass enclosure. Would keep the water from wicking into the floor thinset/grout. There's some schluter profiles that do that, but I also read a bead of silicone is just as useful. It's new to me and I haven't seen any curbless shower videos discuss it so I was just curious.
For walls that is fine to do. On the floor you definitely want to maintain the waterproof barrier outside the shower enclosure. What are you using for waterproofing?
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy ditra throughout the bathroom. I think the idea was to keep the grout outside the shower enclosure from discoloring? Not sure. Cant find much info on it. Maybe it's not really a thing.
It’s mostly a break to keep drywall from deteriorating by constantly hitting it with water. Using a topical membrane eliminates that risk as the water stays on the surface instead of wicking into it in all directions like the old system did. It’s hard to explain here, but that’s the reasoning.
Great videos. I always curious about how to lay 12x24 tiles using a point drain with everything sloping towards the center. To sum it up, make four quadrants leading to the four edges of the drain and we're good to go? If there is anything extra you recommend, please add in. Great stuff here.
That’s what we do. The only other advice I can give is to follow the lines in the pan, if you’re using a premade foam pan anyway. Don’t necessarily go from the corner of the drain to the corner of the shower. We’ve been drawing the lines on our pan before we cut them down. Then when we lay out tile on top it’s easy to see the line and transfer it to the tile.
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy Amazing. Thanks again. You guys are the best
Do you find getting full coverage and adhesion of Ditra to be difficult?
+Richard McKrell I don’t find it difficult as long as the prep is done correctly. The things that affect coverage the most are poor prep and the wrong notch trowel size. If the floor is flat and the correct notch trowel is used coverage won’t be a problem. Back buttering tile will also help a lot with coverage when the tile is over 15” on an edge.
thanks
What did you use for a blade?
Which blade are you asking about? Tile or wood? Thanks for the question, I’m happy to help any way I can.
The blade for the tile saw
I use a T-3 Razor on the wet saw. It’s a great all around blade. It cuts porcelain, glass and stone very well.
EJ Flooring & Custom Tile Installation thanks so much for answering I really appreciate it!
My pleasure
What size trowel did you use?
For 12x24 tiles we always use 1/2x1/2 trowel. Thinset coverage on the back of the tile needs to be 95% minimum.
Next time make al those short cuts first... Then do the long cut. Less of a chance the tile will snap prematurely.
Good advice, thanks.
So, you turned the waterproof side of the shower pan upside down for install. Two questions: does this shower drain correctly? Also, any water leaks underneath to the subfloor? These systems are made specifically to be used the way they intended. I’d be surprised if this shower still operates correctly....
Uh, no. The shower pan is installed right side up. I’m quite familiar with how to properly install Schluter Shower systems.
The shower pan was turned upside down to mark the floor tile angle cuts only. Once we located the proper angles we then installed the shower pan right side up. The shower works wonderfully, was just back at the house two days ago to look at tiling the other bathroom.
Did you invert the pan to keep from denting/damaging the waterproof membrane? I'm about to do something similar and this is brilliant.
Just….wow at this comment.
hearing protection :)
Sounds good
@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy I assume when you buy a house with a curbless shower that wasn't waterproofed correctly the only fix is to rip it all up right? I'm about to start DEMO. :(
That is usually a good bet unfortunately. If you can tell me how it was constructed you may be able to save the walls. Usually if one aspect is done wrong though, it’s hard for me to have any confidence any part of it would be correct.
These are not tile guys and I know this because they put 12×24s on the shower floor, even when cut that's a dumb thing to do. BUY MOSAIC that contours to the floor. That shower floor won't last but a year or two.
Hmm, what a strange comment to make. Our installations meet every industry standard required for use. Show off your knowledge and show me in the TCNA where this shower doesn’t meet standards. I’ll wait.
Wow, I'm shocked that you would use 12x24 tile on the shower pan in the first place. But then to make diagonal relief cuts? Sorta ruined what might have been a nice shower floor.
Also, you "eyeballed" center rather than pulling a string?
+Joe Hicks it works just fine on Schluter pans. The Schluter pan is 4 angles that come together, it’s not a rounded cone shape. We cut the tiles to fall on the angle of the pan and that is how our slope is achieved.
The relief cuts are what allows for slope and drainage. A flat floor
Won’t drain.
Don’t waste your time explaining
The moment he said “eyeballed center”
Wow two guys to instale 50 sf i do 500 sf alone one day plus float on top
then create a business and be humble. dope people don't talk shit
If your so great why are you watching how to videos about tilework
500sf in a day doesn't mean crap if it looks like ass and cracks up in a few years. It takes more time to make a video while you work.
You couldn't tile a dog house properly.
Lol 500 in a day? What is float on top?