Were all still learning. Everyday I pick up a little trick here and there. Just in the last 2 weeks I have mastered replacing Worcester Greenstar PRV's. I have been changing them for years trying different ways. I will try and get that one uploaded soon.
I refuse to take anything off the wall unless it needs a vessel. Its difficult to tell a customer that your going to charge 2-3 hours labour for a £15 PRV.
@@HeatingGeek if the expansion vessel or prv becomes faulty could you install these at some other point in c/h pipework and just forget about the faulty ones?
@@garylawton7254 Yes and No. Lots of things to consider and its easy to replace them in the boiler. Also, regs (that are often ignored) say the PRV should not be isolatable from the heat source. Putting in an external Prv on all combi boilers would be wrong because you can turn off the isolation valves.
We work in an industry where everyone thinks they are the best engineer in Europe. This guy is good and watching him could help you become a better engineer. Thirty years an engineer and always room to learn. Thanks mate.
Excellent video once again - many thanks! Big problem with these boilers, sure this will help many others. Name of the game is keep the system water clean and filtered. Otherwise these Vailants will throw up several problems.
10 out of 10 to you sir for your sharing such practice and quality product knowledge. I can see you gaining many more subscribers, so keep at it as your removing the black art of boiler repairs. If I was asked could the information given be improved I would show :-The changing of the faulty item in more detail would help, along with images of the offending sensor.
Great video mate it good see to someone else’s perspective on doing repairs as I hardly go into the diagnostics software. I know with F75 it can sometimes be the pump and would be good to see your approach on that one and can the software be used to diagnose that.?
The pressure sensor is magnetic so it sucks in magnetite (iron oxide) and blocks the sensor. Place some loose wire wool trimmings and watch it stick to the sensor.
Please dont take it that F9 on Glowworm is a pressure sensor, if it's a iris board F9 is a global fault not just pressure sensor, quickest way to test on either just drain boiler , if there is still pressure on readout pressure sensor blocked
I see so many engineers seem to have different preferences when it comes to draining down a boiler. Some turn off. Some leave on. Some drain just boiler then system. Some just boiler. What’s actually the correct way, I was told isolate, drain boiler and then system if needed but never drain system without first doing boiler and isolating.
Depends how much the engineer charges. He has to diagnose too. It would cost my customer about 155 but they would get the vessel pumped and boiler safety checked etc. No Cheap Cheap here!!!
Sensor cost is £30 can be diagnosed within 10 mins , boiler drain 10 mins , vessel can be checked and pumped whilst being drained , none of this putting it into purge mode nonsense £100 MAX ,I worked for group service for years know these boilers back to front
Hi Do you ever have problems with the power switch on the ecotecs? About 4 years ago I had a series of them that when I turn it off to do a service the power switch would fail and I would then have to explain to the customer that the need a new pcb I now don’t turn them off at the switch and isolate them at the wall switch. Have you come across this and do you have any tricks to put it right? Another great video I think I have Caught up on the full that catalogue now.
I’m sure you press reset (little white button) while holding plus. Then if it says P0 you press mode. If it says P1 then you can’t do it so just press reset again to get out of service mode.
hi, I have bought a Fernox TF1 filter which a intend to fit myself, I am thinking draining the boiler should be easy enough, but when I have fitted the filter and turn the water supply back on, will the boiler just fill back up without me having to anything and be safe to turn back on. ?
What boiler? Open vent or sealed system? Basically every situation is different and I can only give you some basic advice that might not be right for your situation. I don't want to give wrong advise. Give me more info and I will try and help.
Hi ya, thanks for the reply, I have a sealed system no water tanks in the loft or anything like that. And the boiler is just coming up to being 15 years old, it is a Valliant turbomax plus 828E it has been a great boiler only 2 breakdowns in all them years, cant remember what the first problem was, and the second breakdown was the divertor valve.
Thats a great boiler. Depending on access it should be no problem fitting a filter. You will need to fill and vent the system afterwards using the filling loop. Do you know how to drain it etc?
I downloaded a manual for it and found the drain off point, I am guessing it will just be a couple of litres to drain off, I was more concerned about weather their was anything you had to do after refilling it before starting it up again, I can see their is an auto vent inside the boiler, so if it is just a case off filling it up at the fill loop and the heat exchanger will went it's self then I think I will be ok.
You need to be careful because when you drain it will be a few litres BUT there is usually alot more in the system. If your boiler is at a high point it will be ok but if its low you can get surprised. The boiler will vent its self if the AAV is ok. Just turn the on/off (0/1) knob on and off a few times after you hear the pump run and it will help clear the air. Like what the P0 thing does on the F75 video.
I know what you mean. I have tried to make it a little hard for customers to understand what is going on. This is meant for engineers. there are a couple of videos that had to be simpler. This is one of them.
Have watched every video.
I’ve been a gas engineer for 11 years mate but I have picked up lots of good tips from you.
Keep them coming 👍👍
Were all still learning. Everyday I pick up a little trick here and there. Just in the last 2 weeks I have mastered replacing Worcester Greenstar PRV's.
I have been changing them for years trying different ways.
I will try and get that one uploaded soon.
HeatingGeek
I’ve had the mains pipe off below, pump and block out and boiler off the wall 😂
I refuse to take anything off the wall unless it needs a vessel. Its difficult to tell a customer that your going to charge 2-3 hours labour for a £15 PRV.
@@HeatingGeek if the expansion vessel or prv becomes faulty could you install these at some other point in c/h pipework and just forget about the faulty ones?
@@garylawton7254 Yes and No. Lots of things to consider and its easy to replace them in the boiler. Also, regs (that are often ignored) say the PRV should not be isolatable from the heat source. Putting in an external Prv on all combi boilers would be wrong because you can turn off the isolation valves.
We work in an industry where everyone thinks they are the best engineer in Europe. This guy is good and watching him could help you become a better engineer. Thirty years an engineer and always room to learn. Thanks mate.
Nice one. That means a lot.:-)
Excellent video once again - many thanks! Big problem with these boilers, sure this will help many others. Name of the game is keep the system water clean and filtered. Otherwise these Vailants will throw up several problems.
Exactly, keep it clean and you don't need to filter it though.
I have filters in my garage but not on my system. My system is spotless.
These videos are better than most UA-cam Pumbers...no names mentioned....
Thanks. :-)
An excellent post!
I managed to get the boiler going after the reset. But I’ll be getting the sensor changed to save anymore aggro.
Thanks 👍🏼
Glad you like it. :-)
Really good videos these!
Sometimes you can clean them and get them going if you don’t have one but didn’t always work!
Very informative and really good for me as a newcomer. Thanks
10 out of 10 to you sir for your sharing such practice and quality product knowledge.
I can see you gaining many more subscribers, so keep at it as your removing the black art of boiler repairs.
If I was asked could the information given be improved I would show :-The changing of the faulty item in more detail would help, along with images of the offending sensor.
Im sorry about the lack of sensor removal. I forgot to film it. Next time.
Excellent.
Hi
Another very good instructional video.
Thanks:-)
Great video mate it good see to someone else’s perspective on doing repairs as I hardly go into the diagnostics software. I know with F75 it can sometimes be the pump and would be good to see your approach on that one and can the software be used to diagnose that.?
I changed the pressure sensor and the boiler is continuing to show F9 now and then, will it be the pump?
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment. I didn’t see it in my feed. :-(
The pressure sensor is magnetic so it sucks in magnetite (iron oxide) and blocks the sensor. Place some loose wire wool trimmings and watch it stick to the sensor.
Nice tip. :-)
I was hoping you might show his to change the sensor 👍🏼
I forgot to film it. Next time
@@HeatingGeek these clips are great mate do you have a clip on pcb issues repairs?
@@garylawton7254 No I dont. Sorry
This is weapon cheers m8 jx
No problem
well explained thanks dude
thanks!
Good stuff
Thanks!
Please dont take it that F9 on Glowworm is a pressure sensor, if it's a iris board F9 is a global fault not just pressure sensor, quickest way to test on either just drain boiler , if there is still pressure on readout pressure sensor blocked
I see so many engineers seem to have different preferences when it comes to draining down a boiler. Some turn off. Some leave on. Some drain just boiler then system. Some just boiler.
What’s actually the correct way, I was told isolate, drain boiler and then system if needed but never drain system without first doing boiler and isolating.
Every situation is different. Some boilers I would never touch the valves on. Some I would. Experience tell an engineer how to play each situation.
How much does the sensor replacement fitting cost the customer?
Depends how much the engineer charges. He has to diagnose too. It would cost my customer about 155 but they would get the vessel pumped and boiler safety checked etc. No Cheap Cheap here!!!
Sensor cost is £30 can be diagnosed within 10 mins , boiler drain 10 mins , vessel can be checked and pumped whilst being drained , none of this putting it into purge mode nonsense £100 MAX ,I worked for group service for years know these boilers back to front
You are amazing thanks
Thanks. No problem.
I have a f74 fault on my vailiant eco tec 831 could it be a presser sensor?
It could be. Or wiring or PCB. Get a good engineer and they will let you know. :-)
Hi Do you ever have problems with the power switch on the ecotecs? About 4 years ago I had a series of them that when I turn it off to do a service the power switch would fail and I would then have to explain to the customer that the need a new pcb
I now don’t turn them off at the switch and isolate them at the wall switch. Have you come across this and do you have any tricks to put it right?
Another great video I think I have Caught up on the full that catalogue now.
I have had the newer Button type fail. Not the older knob type. Which one did you have the issue with?
HeatingGeek The old round switch type, maybe I just got unlucky.
@@andyturner1502 Yeah, I never had it that I can remember. :-) That's a part that could be replaced... :-)
An other nice video thanks really helpful and educational.
Thanks.
Hi mate. Have a glow-worm 30cx showing f9.
Is there a pump test available on this?
I’m sure you press reset (little white button) while holding plus. Then if it says P0 you press mode. If it says P1 then you can’t do it so just press reset again to get out of service mode.
see below
hi, I have bought a Fernox TF1 filter which a intend to fit myself, I am thinking draining the boiler should be easy enough, but when I have fitted the filter and turn the water supply back on, will the boiler just fill back up without me having to anything and be safe to turn back on. ?
What boiler? Open vent or sealed system?
Basically every situation is different and I can only give you some basic advice that might not be right for your situation. I don't want to give wrong advise.
Give me more info and I will try and help.
Hi ya, thanks for the reply, I have a sealed system no water tanks in the loft or anything like that. And the boiler is just coming up to being 15 years old, it is a Valliant turbomax plus 828E it has been a great boiler only 2 breakdowns in all them years, cant remember what the first problem was, and the second breakdown was the divertor valve.
Thats a great boiler. Depending on access it should be no problem fitting a filter. You will need to fill and vent the system afterwards using the filling loop. Do you know how to drain it etc?
I downloaded a manual for it and found the drain off point, I am guessing it will just be a couple of litres to drain off, I was more concerned about weather their was anything you had to do after refilling it before starting it up again, I can see their is an auto vent inside the boiler, so if it is just a case off filling it up at the fill loop and the heat exchanger will went it's self then I think I will be ok.
You need to be careful because when you drain it will be a few litres BUT there is usually alot more in the system. If your boiler is at a high point it will be ok but if its low you can get surprised.
The boiler will vent its self if the AAV is ok. Just turn the on/off (0/1) knob on and off a few times after you hear the pump run and it will help clear the air. Like what the P0 thing does on the F75 video.
👏👏
Thanks for watching it :-)
good video but id say too much detail in some cases as you get the odd diy man who will do this.
I know what you mean. I have tried to make it a little hard for customers to understand what is going on. This is meant for engineers. there are a couple of videos that had to be simpler. This is one of them.
Show where the pressure sensor is ffs
Its in different places on different boilers.... Any engineer will know where to find the information.
@@HeatingGeek not any engineer
But thanks anyway for this information