ROBRENZ TOOLROOM TIP #2
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- #practitioner_of_the_mechanical_arts
A modification to a standard grinding wheel hub to allow precise gripping of superabrasive wheels after indicating in the wheel OD. And a indicator protector to directly indicate on the abrasive surface of the wheel. A how to on dressing super abrasive wheels with Molybdenum rod.
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brs_workshop • 16 hours ago
“Shop Notes”*
• Making a grinding arbor nut
• Adding spring steel to a dial test indicator for alarger surface
• (5C) collet held backstop in the lathe with the chuck on
• Tapping head is a SPV (Spintec) SA-0E. I can't find the model on their website.
• 3M 467 Adhesive Transfer tape:
McMasterCarr (60yd): www.mcmaster.c...
Amazon (.5 in/20yd): www.amazon.com...
(other sizes): www.amazon.com...
3M's website: www.3m.com/3M/...
• Indicating in
• Tip about aligning to your spindle for good repeat concentricity.
• Opening a dressing a diamond wheel with dollar store sharpening stone and a stick of moly(dinum?)
*Not affiliated with any manufacturer or supplier.
“Shop Notes”*
• Making a grinding arbor nut
• Adding spring steel to a dial test indicator for alarger surface
• (5C) collet held backstop in the lathe with the chuck on
• Tapping head is a SPV (Spintec) SA-0E. I can't find the model on their website.
• 3M 467 Adhesive Transfer tape:
McMasterCarr (60yd): www.mcmaster.com/#adhesive-transfer-tape/=19s264m
Amazon (.5 in/20yd): www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y7CQ1S/
(other sizes): www.amazon.com/467MP-Performance-Adhesive-Transfer-0-125/dp/B00P26Z04I/
3M's website: www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape-467MP?N=5002385+3293242532&rt=rud
• Indicating in
• Tip about aligning to your spindle for good repeat concentricity.
• Opening a dressing a diamond wheel with dollar store sharpening stone and a stick of moly(dinum?)
*Not affiliated with any manufacturer or supplier.
Robin, your knowledge brought to this community will outlast generations. The way your brain is geared is something to be admired, and your attention to detail is flawless. Thank you my friend!
Wow, thanks
I love seeing that you've posted on UA-cam! Your Instagram is great, but it's nice to see everything in such depth. Thanks for posting. 👍
Glad you like them!
Was going to say the same thing!
Any day you learn something, it's a good day. Any day Robrenz teaches you, you get a degree.
I wish there was enough Robenz content to watch 24/7
Me too, but then I just rewatch the previous ones too.
Just keep watching the old ones!!!
"A problem well stated is a problem half-solved". I think that's why I find your videos so educational/helpful/inspiring/enjoyable. Thank you.
Great to hear!
great video!
Thanks Tony.
ATB, Robin
Bout time for you to drop a video. I smell a collaboration. Maho? Make a super tight tolerance vice for the maho. Maybe a hydraulic vice. I really appreciate both of you guys. I wish i had equipment at home to make videos
You are a great teacher. The way you explain things, just enough detail without beating the dead horse. Thanks.
Thanks Robin. Most of your work is on a level totally inapplicable to me, but I still enjoy and learn from every minute of it.
1st... maybe. Lol
Another great video. Took me a few years to learn all the tips you just went over in a 15 min video. Would’ve saved me some time watching this first. 👍
Second!
I love these little bite sized toolroom tips!
i often use a feeler gauge blade to "bridge "when indicating. very nice and as always loaded with learning
Nice tip on the wheel dressing, love the nut idea. Thanks Robin for sharing.
Thanks for watching Randy!
ATB, Robin
We used a similar multi-point jacking bolt on some specialized equipment that needed huge holding forces, but had no room for standard wrenching and torque that would be required with a standard bolt. Did the math and found to get equivalent torque on a standard bolt, we'd need a 17foot cheater bar. With the super-bolt, a 6in long hex key was enough to get the same result. Amazing....
I always learn something fascinating when I watch one of your videos. The spring steel "pad" alone is pure gold. Keep up the great work.
Thanks and correct, I didn't invent the idea I just applied it in another application.
@@ROBRENZ I didn't mean to imply that you were implying that you were the first to use this. Simply to discuss the incredible amount of force this method produces. I'm not a machinist, but love the craft. Of all the amazing things I've learned here, the one I most often use is Goop thinned with toluene.
It may be a small thing, but I appreciate knowing where a video is going before watching it for 15-30 min. Thx.
Thats why there's a description section... 😎👍☘🍺
Fascinating, your attention to detail and mindset. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
You are the capo di tutti i capi of the UA-cam machinists community. You should have 2 million subscribers...
You are a true craftsman. It's a real pleasure to see your work.
Thank you!
New Renzetti vid -> smash like button. (same on instagram) I don't even do any surface grinding but every time you speak I learn like 10 things and it is very appreciated. Your work is probably out of my league, but watching your setup workflow and problem solving approach is highly informative. Thanks again Mr. Renz.
Awesome thank you!
The master of methodology. Thank you for the excellent tip.
Robin, thanks for another great video, I really like this style. The long form videos are great, only downside is sometimes I want to show a technique to a coworker and can't remember where you showed it. You're also the reason we have a Harig surface grinder and D-bit grinder.
One question-you come up with very creative ways to work around not having a tool changer VMC, but wouldn't it be easier to get even something small like a Minimill? It wouldn't replace the ProtoTrac for big stuff, but it sure would make life easier for all the spot/drill/tap operations and projects like the boring bar.
You're doing things now that we mere mortals couldn't do if we were handed a 5 axis Kern, I can't imagine what would happen if you had a little machine like Adam Demuth's Mori tucked in the corner.
Thanks Robin, Ive had a Hardinge toolroom lathe for ever and never thought to leave the collet closer in for use as a stop. Unbelievable that I've never known that trick. You never stop learning in this trade. Thanks for sharing
What a great detailed description of how A master works. Thanks Robin. 👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
I always learn something from an R.R. video. Thanks for taking the time to make all of these videos.
I know this video has been up awhile, but stefangtwr pointed me to it and I followed the steps to true up my shars diamond wheel. I even drilled and tapped the ring on a ProtoTrak. Worked great, thanks Robin.
Thanks for sharing!
Drop everything, I can mow later. Robrenz has new video! Great stuff!! Thanks! Fred
Enjoy!
I've been doing this tool-making stuff a long time (since we worked Dunnington together) but I always learn something new from your videos. Thanks.
Thanks for watching Rob!
A buffer for the gauge is a really good idea. Being able to true up one of those wheels by adjusting rather than dressing seems like a huge timesaver.
Thanks Brian!
ATB, Robin
Your high precision machining gives a lot of insight of factors comming in to play for slightly rougher jobs too, I assemble industrial machinery and your attention to detail really makes me think twice about what i'm doing. Thank you! To my fellow subscribers, donate to what you consume too, make it worth it !
This video was like a really good movie I had to watch it three times to get everything. Wow, very well done. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Man, Your IG videos are amazing, but Your YT videos are pure gold. I know if you're a machinist and also YT'uber you will screw up machining or making videos, but please, keep this videos on YT going.ATB Robin!For metric folks - 0.0005" is like a little bit over 10 microns
I think you mean .00005"
Obviously. Thanks and sorry for a typo.
Another good reference video... Thanks for your time and care, Pierre
Thanks Robin, recently bought a wheel like this and have yet to try mounting it, you have highlighted the problems I'll face and given me some solutions. Much appreciated, looking forward to tip #3.
Interesting and informative as always. Thanks Robin.
Glad it was helpful!
Always learn something from your videos Robin, Thanks for taking the time to share. Gary
I like your back up piece held in the collet. So much other great information. Thanks
I just recieved my first grinding wheel yesterday. This video pretty much answerd all questions I had last night about mounting it and dressing it. Timing could not have been better. Really like the tip about the metal strip you mounted on the dial indicator.
This is really only for diamond or cbn wheels. A standard vitrified abrasive wheel would just be dressed with a diamond point.
Thanks Rob, glad to have spotted this one. Better late than never - always good to learn.
Educational as always, thanks for sharing the knowledge Robin!
Your timing is great. I picked up a moly stick a couple of weeks ago and have not used it yet. I feel more comfortable using it now. Thanks for sharing.
Robin, this "Toolroom Tip" is full of good information. I'm looking forward to your next video!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing. Your videos are GOLD.
Amazing detail and exceptionally useful narrative as always. Thank you!
Nice job Robin!
Steve
Great video and I learned something. Thanks for the video.
Just another great video Robin. I have come back and watched this a couple times. Phil
Hi Robin, hope this finds you doing well. Can't thank you enough for sharing this info! I need to grind the carbide feet on an indicator stand I built, and just purchased my first diamond wheel to do so. Your video is going to be incredibly helpful in setting up the wheel properly. The tips on the arbor nut set screws( and spacers ), and the spring stock for the indicator probe are priceless!
Thank you Robin,
Amazingly timely, almost, but that actually helped me Focus ( you b) on the lesson!
Just did a small run of precision stones and had to dress a new Norton 13mm wide diamond wheel.
Went with what I knew and used a Norton carbide dressing stick to true and Alox stick to open.
Like you're suggestion better
How does the sticky cold rolled do in comparison to the Molly?
And that hub, Hubba Hubba hubba.
Had to do it, sorry.
But, yep, that's brill.
You could do the same on the vitrified wheels with that washer taking the grubbers.
Lots of hubs, one for each ....
Thanks again Robin, keep safe.
Thank you for the video. I love these tips . This method looks a lot cleaner than my brake dresser that thing makes the biggest mess
Absolutely great tips. Thanks Robin.
I just reviewed this video again to see why I didn't get the results I should have gotten. It was the washer behind the 6 screws and relief on the hub to get more room to move the wheel around to get better alignment on the diameter of the wheel. Thanks for explaining this process online.
Great timing, looking how to dress my wheel to make my precision ground stones this week. As always , great content.
i always learn something from your videos. or at least re-learn something a different way. i doubt you could ever make too many of these.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge of dressing a super abrasive wheel.
I just decided to keep my Macson surface grinder after 20 years lying stripped down and idle despite the fact it takes up some room and these tips are really gems especially the nut that holds the wheel.
Robin, awesome video! I have always wondered how diamond wheels are dressed true.
I have been wanting to thank you, I am always challenged to consider WHY materials and objects interact and behave the way they do. I love your analytical thinking, it has made me a more professional tradesman! (Plumber)
Thanks👍🏻😀👍🏻
I once did a study looking at resin bonded diamond wheels under a powerful microscope, comparing those that had been ‘opened up’ using a soft dressing stick with wheels where this was skipped. I was just barely able to discern the ridges of resin directly behind each individual grain of abrasive, and valleys on all other sides of the grain where the soft abrasive dressing stick wore the resin away. I think if I had more time to experiment with dressing procedure I could have made it even more pronounced, but it was interesting nonetheless.
Microscopes are a great shop tool for seeing what you're doing, with abrasives especially. If you can just use your eyes, a lot of great techniques turn from spooky tricks to blindingly obvious.
Excellent video Robin.
what a wealth of information, thanks, shooting star machine, candler nc
I appreciate your videos; I always learn a lot from your content. Thank you.
Great idea. Cheers .
Love your work Rob.
Great video Robin. Always a good day when I see you have a new video out.
Glad you enjoy it!
I made one of your DTI fine adjust heads and just love it. One change I made was to add a ball to the mag base arm. With a couple of side plates to make a stiff joint between head and arm there is sufficient freedom of movement to fold the DTI back along the arm protecting the stylus when not in use.
Excellent useful content as always Robin! Good to see you keeping busy even in these times!
I may never need to do this setup on a grinding wheel but the tricks with the spring steel are interesting . I think that precision grinding has been overtaken by new EDM Wire cutting so this type of tips & tricks by the older class of toolmakers get lost. Thank You
EDM is fascinating technology but it will never replace grinding -its slow ,machines cost arm and leg ,its hard to find a good workforce that knows how to work on it ,amount of power those machines use is high.Its first used in 1970's but its still unicorn of the machining world.Compared to a CNC machines like milling machines that are commonly used today in large industry and hobby garages ,its way behind in mass use and its only 12 years younger than a cnc machine.Grinding is used since the iron age 2500 years ago when a dude used a rock to sharpen a axe and it will stay for that much probably.
zumbazumba if you read closely I was talking about Wire EDM machines . The technology is amazing as it can cut complex geometry shapes as a high rate of speed VS the old cabin electrodes of the early 1970’s . I have seen carbide parts of 4 to 5 pcs cut at different locations that have a slip running fit with a 3 to 4 micro Ra finish. parts were produced in hours. Sounds like you need to checkout wire machines as they are slick. Hate to say this but CNC machines have left manual machines i the dust for speed, fit, finish & time to produce. Back in the mid 70’s i worked at Burke tool and Fred purchased. Moore CNC tape Jig Grinder this machine ran rings around a Harig grind fixture on a manual grinder. Sorry but this is a fact ! .
Wire EDM is not very versatile. Parts cannot have complex topology, but must be composed of geometrically primitive surfaces of revolution or extrusion, and can include no fillets or concave edges if these do not align with the wire, or any features with more than two faces which meet at concave junction, to name just a couple of examples. The rolls for a rollforming machine, for instance, are not suitable candidates, despite being simple solids of revolution.
They are also perhaps the most maintenance-intensive items in a modern toolroom.
It is fantastic tech, but it has not replaced precision grinding, and is not likely to do so.
Always learn something from you. My surface grinder has been idle for a few months. Maybe it's time I get some practice in. Thank you Robin
Thanks for the great video Robin! You're always so informative and fun to watch, as you have good techniques and ideas. I'm setting up a shop in my garage to learn and to help teach my kids since they don't have shop classes anymore. I've been buying basketcase/dirty/ugly machines since that's what I can afford on my limited budget and the kids and I are cleaning them up and hoping we can refurb them to be useful, good machines. I got a Boyar-Schultz 612 surface grinder and just got it wired up. So much to learn and to explore!
That is good to hear!
Good stuff Robin. That is exactly how I sweep in parts using a DTI... I try to explain it to my operators and of course, I get blank stares.
Robin, did you leave the ring you put the six holes in annealed?
yes
You are on a different level Robin.
Thank you so much Robin! I learned a lot of good tips and ideas from your videos.Although there will be some language barriers, they have been answered in the comments and thanks to everyone in the comments section.
Enjoyed that! Thanks very much,even though I am a wood worker,I love the way you describe precision metal workings.Have a nice day!👋👍🇩🇰
Glad you enjoyed it
👍more superb robrenz engineering! Like the key way reference idea. Thanks for sharing!
Nice bag of tricks. I got comments, of course.
I like the contact point protecter trick. Back in the day, I superglued a strip cut from feeler stock to the DTI. Reliable double side adhesive was unavailable. You young whippersnappers have it easy.
I've used mild steel to dress diamond wheels many times. Never considered moly but moly barstock is scarce in these parts anyway.
Dedicating wheel hubs to a particular wheel has been around for generations. However multiple hubs are expensive/tricky to make accurately for most shops. For that matter quick interchange of grinding spindle hubs is pretty much a concern for the tool room and sharpening lobby. Sopco is a revered name for grinding wheel hubs for those interested. They make hubs for most grinder spindles for a fair price (about $100 for a Cincinatti T&C grinder hub). They're worth the money and turn-around time is short for pupular hub configs in stock. Well, that was my experience 25 years ago.
Good presentation Robin.
Thanks Forrest!
Great information. Thank you for sharing.
Faster than my way, that is certain. Thanks for the demonstration. I've been using my homebrew brake tool but will try the molybdenum sticks next time as the dust created by the brake device makes it a solid second place behind this method. I also haven't been dressing the resin back with as much frequency as you show here. Thanks once again!
New to surface grinding. Both of your tool room tips videos are great for me. Thanks.
Great to hear!
I go through withdrawals every time you post - love it ;)
No longer have access to machining , started out in automotive , yrs. alter gunsmithing .
Now electronics repair [ loved your Kelvin clips ] and gold recovery from electronics not repaired , so chemistry also , refining .
Use to do underwater suction dredging gold mining in No. Cal. 70s-90s .
You seem have varied interests also , machining & electrical , what else .
Thanks again
I remember you from the EEVblog forum!
Brilliant Robin, love it!! Cheers, Doug
Thanks for this. Just what I've needed all along.
Glad it was helpful!
excelent video as always, ive had a diamond wheels sitting and waiting to be trued up, now i have a better idea on how to do it, thanks robin
Thanks Robin, great content as always. Keep safe!
Thanks, you too!
at first I thought this was for axial runout. another super precision tip!
Answer to questions I have had for years thanks
Excellent excellent vid, brilliant use of spring steel combined with indicator and pear tip to remove cosine error, with the extra detail of creating a rubbed flat that effectively creates a larger true contact patch.
When you drilled the nut however, a more stable method to add more contact points with your vice would have been to add a v block against both jaws of the vice- creating 4 points of jaw contact rather than 2- and leaving less chance of deforming the nut from clamping, as well as less chance of slipping or rotating when drilling.
Otherwise great vid as always! I need to get a grinder for home use, I only have a Harig 618 and a newer Okamoto at work to use.
Good work - thanks for the very helpful hints.
I've bought Chinese diamond wheel that were catastrophically out i faced a pocket in a blank bit of scrap then dropped the wheel in and over bored a new bore and faced the sides. made a adaptor and perfect result
Great information and presentation, thank you!
Great stuff. But I especially love the adapter on the indicator. That would be useful in a lot of instances
Indeed. A great alternative, for instance, to using a conventional "elephant's foot" style end plunger on an axial indicator.
Thanks Robin! Can you show us your rotary grinding fixture and demurring machine next? Thanks.
Another awesome video. I could watch your stuff 24/7. Always learn so much.
Where is a good source for moly stick. Didn't see any on McMaster and everything on eBay seems to come from China.
Thanks uncle Robin. Awesome as always.
Someone told me wrap a scotch tape around the wheel. Haven’t tried it yet. How do you think about that method?
Please, try this and share your video with us. You are amazing Cà Lem!
Thanks Ca Lem, that will work also.
ATB, Robin
Thanks for the video.
Fantastic tip! That I will definitely use. Thanks.
Cool! I had no idea that type of wheel could be dressed, let alone so simply. I always thought you just had to accept whatever the manufacturer did. Sort of like carbide tooling, I always thought that you had to just accept it. Stefan has a cool video where he actually machines the carbide itself in the lathe.
Awesome, looking for a way to apply this to my old lathe 😅
Thats a very good way! Thanks for the tip!
Oh ya robin whenever you have a minute. your video's are alway's a real nice suprize. Those resin bond wheels can be had on ebay cheaper than you can get a green 6" 1" hole. The 3" if there gonna last me forever buy 2 crash one specials from china would still be a new buying experience A veriable speed motor drive and a drill motor sized motor is where i'm going to start . and make it so its a tool post grinder / mini K-O Lee has vari speed and a hub system and flood coolent the diamond cuts sooo cool but Aluminum oxide heating and cracking tool steels carbon steels and the dust That vari speed drive is gonna power my HHO cell Thats what I'm doing right now is digging up and cutting off parts pieces Having a torch that would heat a 3/4" steel bar orange and you store no flamible gas and some of the other aspects thanks robin good to hear from you
Yo no entiendo lo que dice porque no hablo ingles pero veo lo que hace y es maravilloso gracias Mr Robrenz