Clutch Master & Slave Cylinder Replacement - BMW E46 330i
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- This video will show you step-by-step how to replace the clutch master and slave cylinder on a 2004 BMW E46 330i with 150K miles. The customer had provided me the parts to perform repair. He stated that he could not engage the shifter in any gear with the clutch pedal depressed and did not know whether the master or slave cylinders was the cause.
Recommended specialty tools to perform this repair: 1. 3/8" flare nut adapters (or flex head crow foot adapters) 2. Brake fluid evacuation pump. 3. Hose pliers
Repair difficulty: Moderate
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Parts & Tools:
Metric Flare Nut Flex Head Wrench Set:
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Mountain RM6 Chrome Metric Box Wrench Set
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Mountain MTNRM1214 Ratcheting Double Box Flex Wrench, 12x14mm
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BMW Brake Fluid:
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GEARWRENCH 82107 3 Piece Double X Hose Pliers Set (82017, 82018, 82019)
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LuK LMC454 Clutch Master Cylinder
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Beck Arnley 072-9626 Clutch Slave Cylinder
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That paper towel wrapped around the nut trick is GOLDEN....thanks :)
Glad it was helpful!
Helpful tip, leave the clip on for the hard line. It just clips in place when you push it far enough in...
Thanks for sharing.
Really good video, I’m new BMW and just replaced the slave, it’s fixed my hard to disengage clutch issue. I found spraying some WD40 before sliding it in helped alot, it was hard pushing against the spring and getting the nut on, otherwise it was smooth! Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your experience!
05:04 that pedal just magically came off 😮
Exactly what I need to get done! Thanks. Should be similar to a Z4m 2006.
0
thank you
You're welcome!
my clutch pedal takes alot to push all the way down and i cant get into gear, what is the issue? there was also a smell coming from my pedal
Could be: 1. Leak in the hydraulic fluid lines 2. Worn clutch master cylinder 3. Worn clutch slave cylinder.
Thanks man great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. 👍
EXELLENT VID
Thanks!
Great video, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
great video
Thanks!
nice video, thanks
Thanks for your comment and support!
Great video. Tks a lot 👍
Glad you liked it!
Awesome just did it with the help of yours and someonr elses video.
Good for you!
@@hardlymovingpro I would recommend removing the hose from the reservoir then remove from cylinder. i coulnd getit off under the dash lol
@@SW-pm3ls Had the same problem which is why I have a set of hose pliers that grabs and eases twisting the hose off.
@@hardlymovingpro I have aset of hose pliers as well. It just didnt do the trick for me personally. Still a strong video and now my Master cylinder doesn't make any more noise. So thank you.
@@SW-pm3ls You bet! Glad it all worked out for you!
Very good.thanks.
Thanks!
It a great video. More details. Does anyone why the clutch and the manual transmission are not connecting? Thanks
Could be a worn clutch or pressure plate.
the shaft i took out didnt have push and putting in the new one it didn’t have resisted.
May not have aligned it up properly.
Just bought an E46 that I haven't picked up yet. Seller says that it needs a new slave cylinder. Do you advise changing the master as well?
If one goes the other isn't too far behind.
@@hardlymovingpro hey so my clutch pedal is really hard to step on will this fix that issue ?
My 2000 323 comes with a GM auto tranny. The reverse gear is shot. Thinking of dropping the auto and installing a manual. Great info :)
You mentioned ypu have a manual. There was an empty spot for the automatic tranny ECM. Since I have an auto, just disconnect it. "50's kid" dropped the auto and installed a manual. His videos was pretty extensive. Then he mentioned, need to code the tranny. This was the point, i abandonied the idea. I just retired and thought it won't be too bad. Since I have time. The auto is a GM unit and everybody in GM knows about the problem.
An auto to manual would be an interesting conversion. Only concern would be the PCM (power train control module). It treats both the engine and transmission as one unit. If it senses a problem with the trans, it may put the engine into limp mode.
We have put 3 slaves in. Evey time. We bleed it and we see brake fluid leaking out of the bell housing (99 328i). Don't know if we are doing something wrong or if it's 3 bad parts in a row. The most recent one got it bled. Felt good until we see. Brake fluid leaking from the bell housing
Can't advise without being there to see what you did.
Thanks for the video, I am concerned I lack a good manual pump to bleed the air out though. What would the chances be of being able to do this succesfully without a hand pump?
Open up the bleed valve and let gravity let it leak out for around a hour or so.
As of right now I replaced both master and the slave but my pedal won’t go all the way down to the floor but there is little resistance and the further down u push it gets very hard to push and won’t hit the floor at a certain point and it felt like that before I replaced them too what could be the cause
Possibly the clutch pressure plate the way it was designed.
What do you mean by "pump the cylinder" to get the air out? How do you do that?
Compressing the master cylinder creates vacuum on the supply/input side of the cylinder which will draw in brake fluid. The pressure/output side will compress and push the brake fluid out. If there's no fluid in the new master cylinder, only air will initially come out until you compress (pump) the master cylinder several times which will permit the brake fluid to occupy the air pockets in the master cylinder.
Reference:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master_cylinder
Does he mean pump the master cylinder by depressing the clutch pedal?
Just picked up a 2001 bmw 325i an clutch won’t go all the way down. If I trick the sensors into letting the car start it’ll drive but the clutch slips BAD. What could my issue be an what would you start with before I throw $500 into it on a limb
As the video shows, start by replacing the master and slave cylinders.
will an almost fail master cylinder cause less hydraulic pressure when in cold start? Once the hydraulic fluid warm up and my car shift smoothly. My car is hard to shift into gear when first start in the morning but shift smoothly after warm up. My transmission fluid is new.
Hard to shift because the gear oil is cold hence thicker.
Trying to do a clutch job on my buddys 99 328i got everything out back in but when we go to put the slave in we don't feel the slave "fight" us to put it in. pretty confidant that the slave is lined up. we dont know what we are doing wrong or if something is messed up we have been fighting with this car for a while. Please help
Little tricky getting the slave back in. The slave plunger has to line up with the plunger hole. Then you have to press the slave unit in with one hand while bolting it on with the other. Use a mirror to see the plunger hole.
Hey u sound like the guy from clear eye commercial
Thank u for the help of the video very good teach me how to fix my car
You bet!
What if the slave cylinder is in the bellhousing ? Is it fixable ?
Doesn't work that way. All slave cylinders are external to the housing.
What if your clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor?
Then either your master or slave cylinder is defective by not holding hydraulic pressure (assuming you have fluid in the lines).
@@hardlymovingpro aight thanks.
So heres my situation my clutch isnt slipping engine stalls in first.
Though the other day the clutch pedal went to the floor.
I replaced master and slave from my other Infiniti. Put fluid in reservoir still went to floor. Probably the master or the slave is defective.
So obviously if i get no pressure in my lines i have a leak or either is bad?
Would it matter with a bad bearing?
Just pouring in fluid into the reservoir won't work. You probably have air in the lines. The air must be purged out through the process called "bleeding". Simple two man process: One guy pushed down on the clutch pedal and holds it down. The other guy opens the bleed nipple to allow both the air and brake fluid to come out. The bleed nipple is then closed and the clutch pedal can now be released. Repeat until no air shoots out of the bleed nipple. Keep the fluid level replenished.
@@hardlymovingpro ive tried to bleed it no fluid is coming out the bleed screw on slave cylinder.
Keep pumping ... it'll eventually come out. You did replace the master and slave cylinders ... right?
What if there’s no spring resistance will I need a new clutch??
There should be. Probably did'nt have the slave cylinder rod lined up properly.
But my old one didn’t pop out like it did in your video n I sticked my finger in n the release shaft has a lot of play. Anyways After I changed both cylinders n bled the clutch my car went into gear somewhat smooth n no slipping noise or smell of burnt clutch but later on it’s hard to go into gear is it possible that it’s my release fork and/or my clutch pivot ball?
Can i use the clutch master of an e36 for my e46?
Wouldn't know.
Hay,what i need to do if my car wont start after i replaced tis cilinder?
Not a cylinder problem if the transmission is in neutral during engine startup.
What does that mean exactly? I’m about to replace my slave cylinder because I have no pressure to turn the car over @hardlymovingproductions
I hope it's not made out of aluminum
Could be.
Can I use the e46 master clutch on e36?
Can't say. Do a online parts cross reference.
@@hardlymovingpro i will be using the later model master the thread on version thanks for the reply I will get a custom line
Did it work?
My 2006 BMW M5 clutch master cylinder looks cheap and is made out of... plastic.
Figures. If they can replace an aluminum or steel cast or machined part with molded plastic, they can save a ton of $$$$ on manufacturing. As long as the part lasts through the warranty period, that's great for BMW's bottom line ... but not for the 2nd, 3rd or 4th car owner who thinks they got their car for dirt cheap.